[MBZ] (no subject)

[hursley--- via Mercedes]

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Re: [MBZ] Cell phone companies

[hursley--- via Mercedes]

I had been using T-Mobile for past 3 years. My plan was the Simple
choice plan for 3 lines 1G of data per line, unlimited text and calls.
There are some spots where I cannot get signal. Other than that,
I have no issue. My plan do not have the contract.

Yesterday, I change to T-Mobile ONE plan with no contract where all
3 lines have unlimited data, text and calls for additional $50. And today,
I pre-order the iPhone 7 plus from T and had to pay additional $12 for
the "accidents insurance".

Customer service was great as I was talking to someone who is able to
help me. Talks to them about 4 times in the past. The first was to 
activate the 3rd line located 2000 miles away and to get service 
connected. The second was to clarify my discount. The third was to 
get more data for the 3rd line. She was very helpful and did gave me 
alternatives for advantages in the long run. The fourth was that the 
pre-order insist on the SIM card that I don't need as I am transferring 
from current to new cell and both cells uses the same micro SIM. Just 
knock off the $20, as I do have many SIM cards in my drawer.

K.S.

> On Sep 9, 2016, at 11:18 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 9 Sep 2016 22:14:51 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
>  wrote:
> 
>> Looking to switch cell phone companies.  Looked at T-Mobile. Anybody 
>> have any experience with them?
> 
> I'm using Tracfone.
> 
> 
> Craig

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[MBZ] mbnorthlakeparts.com has change ....

[hursley--- via Mercedes]

I did ordered from them about 2 months ago. Today
I tried to log in and it went to parts.com   So, if any
of you like to continue using parts.com, I don't know
what to say as I have not dealt with them.

Anyway, I happen to hold the old receipt and gave them
a call. The number is same but owned by Hendrick Autos
of Charlotte with the same web page. And the new web site
is mercedesbenzpartsnow.com  I will be ordering some parts
soon, like next week.

BTW credits goes to you all to help me find MB oem parts at
discount.

K.S.
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Re: [MBZ] Anyone have a first aid kit or lid?

[hursley]

 I have one plastic and never used from a '93 201, and up for sale.  If 
interested,private email please.
 
 
On 05/22/12, John Reamesjwrea...@comcast.net wrote:
 
I've got an OLD one from a w126 (the kit itself, in the white plastic 
pouch/case).

It was from an 84.
Dunno how good the materials inside are in...

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On May 22, 2012, at 16:15, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 My tomato plants may be priceless but they are not valueless. One
 dozen are exactly equal in value to one new W123 first aid kit lid.
 :)
 
 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 2:52 PM, Rich Thomas
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 I bought a new one a coupla years ago, I think it was like $25. More than
 some priceless tomato plants!
 
 --R
 
 
 On 5/22/12 2:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 
 Don't have a spare but I used crazy glue on the handle of the FA kit on a
 w116 and it worked like a charm and held up for many years.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On May 22, 2012, at 11:33 AM, andrew strasfogelastrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 In attempting to access the fuel tank sending unit, we accidentally
 cracked the first aid kit in our 1985 300CD. If anyone has a spare I
 would be happy to offer 6 or more heirloom tomato seedlings.
 
 Andrew

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Re: [MBZ] Yet another question about what it's like to live in various parts of the country ...

[hursley]

 You forgotten that to get to the beach, one has to pay beach fees and
babies count too.  Parking near the beach is also big headaches and
had to pay.  Cops are ready to hand out parking fines past the minute.
So, going to the beach is not free.  Restaurants at the some beach towns
has dry rules, no BYO and no liquor store.

One needs a permit to buy a gun.  The permit requires background check
and takes a long time.  To get a carry permit, it is almost impossible.

Beside traffic, the middle finger salute is very common.  People driving
tend to be hasty and getting nowhere except plenty of fender benders.

KS (stuck in central NJ)

 
On 05/13/12, Jaime Kopchinskijaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 
I'll speak up about my experiences living in northern NJ. Lets start with
the bad stuff.

Cons:
 - Overall, very high cost of living
 - High property taxes
 - High traffic
 - Generally speaking, you need two incomes in a household to live
decently

Pros:
 - High standard of living
 - Diversity
 - All the good things that come with diversity: Good
markets, restaurants, and pretty much anything you can image eating near by
(there are important for me)
 - Culture
 - People are well educated, lots of independent thinkers
 - Lots of industries, lots of jobs

I really do like living here, as does just about everyone I know. I live 6
miles from the city, although I rarely go there. The benefits of being
near a city like NYC reach deep into the surrounding areas.

Depending on your preference, you can live in a city environment, suburban,
or rural and never be all that far away from the city or its influence.
 Forget the stereotypes of NJ... people don't talk like that through most
of the state, and most people don't live near the refineries and industry
you see along the NJ Turnpike of when you fly into EWR. That isn't New
Jersey.

We're an hour to excellent beaches and shore line, two hours from the
mountains.

You can own a gun here, but the laws are quite different than other states.
 I have friends who own a few, but not many.

Traffic can be a problem, but locals know ways around it. I live in one of
the most congested parts of the state. Its a bit much for me, but
its manageable. We're planning on moving soon, to another part of the
state. About 25 miles west of the city. Someplace where the roads are
quiet on Sunday and you can hear yourself think.

Given the high cost of living, I wouldn't think about moving here unless
you already have a job, or have experience in a field that is in demand.

Back to CT... Given the example of I-95 through CT... most would just take
CT-15 instead. Much nicer ride, less traffic. I-95 sucks through that
area. In fact, I-95 through NY is to be avoided too, take the tappen zee
bridge across the hudson, then connect to CT-15. There are lots of
redundant highways in the area.

I generally like the feel of CT. Its much more New Englandy than NJ is.
 From what I understand, property taxes are lower there, but the cost of
homes is higher. There are some crappy areas, but also parts where the
super wealthy live. I consider RI an even nicer place to live, but only
based on my experiences of driving through a bunch of times.

And, there are loads of nice old Mercedes around here. They sold tons of
them when new, and many are still on the road or kept in heated garages.

Good luck,
Jaime
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Re: [MBZ] MBCA Renew?

[hursley]

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Re: [MBZ] Cleaning windows

[hursley]

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Re: [MBZ] TPMS

[hursley]

It is gas and go; never expect the attendant to open the hood to check oil nor 
wash your windshield. Else, you upset the Indian folks and can barely 
understand their English.  If they spilled a few drops of fuel, it is OK.  But 
if you touch the pump, they screamed at you in their native language very very 
loud.  That's full service in NJ.
 
k.S.

On 11/23/11, OK Donokd...@gmail.com wrote:

Service is mandated in NJ , but it sure isn't Full !

On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 8:42 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

  A complete waste of time brought along for ninnys who can't be
  bothered to just check the dammed tire pressure.

 Back when we had full-service gas stations they would check your tire
 pressure, oil, clean your windows, etc. while you sat in comfort in your
 car. Surprised they didn't just legislate mandatory full-service, could
 have claimed they created some jobs...

 Allan
 --


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Rust

[hursley]

 My 99 W210 has a rust spot in the wheel fender. And I do wash the wheel well 
after every salt bath. Vehicle was brand new when we acquired it and had never 
left the snow belt area (NJ).  Car is running fine and good.

K.S.

On 11/22/11, Randy Bennell wrote:


Does Mercedes sell the same car throughout the USA?

I ask because my wife's Honda Accord came from Forida.
There was essentially no undercoating on the car when we got it one year 
old.
We had it undercoated and rust proofed here in order to try to preserve it.

I went to the local Honda dealer and looked at the cars there and was 
assured that the undercoating that I saw on the cars there was original 
and factory and not something they had added.

Obviously Honda prepares cars differently for different markets.

I have to wonder if MB does the same and if somebody is moving cars 
around the country such that you are getting cars in NE that were not 
intended to be sold in NE.

Randy

On 22/11/2011 5:05 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 

 I posted this on the MBCA forum to illustrate my disatisfaction with the rust 
 situation on newer MBs.
 
 http://www.mbca.org/forum/2011-11-22/unacceptable-mercedes-rust
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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

[hursley]

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Re: [MBZ] Hood star

[hursley]

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Re: [MBZ] Freezing locks, was Rust, was Parts quality

[Hursley]

Is this the one you are looking for?

http://www.nexusgadgets.com/hot-key-lock-de-icer-pr-16187.html


- Original Message - 
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Freezing locks, was Rust, was Parts quality



On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 8:54 AM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:
I also have an electric doodad powered by batteries that is sort of like 
a
key. The battery voltage causes the key thing to heat up and one is 
supposed
to be able to thaw a lock with it. I have not used it and really don't 
know
where it is but remember receiving it as a stocking stuffer one 
Christmas.


I have one of those too!  And I also received it as a gift, about 15
years ago.  I was skeptical, but it really works.  It's about the size
of a pack of cigarettes.  With advances in battery technology I bet
there's a present-day version that's smaller.

Alex 



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Re: [MBZ] Top 10 best looking cars BUICK

[Hursley]

BTW, I am still the original owner of a '90 126 560 SEL with euro lights. 
Glad that I did not get the '91 (add more electronics headaches).  Vehicle 
is exactly 20 yrs old.


Took out to run during the nice weather.

PS.   I did not see a note from you on my windshield!

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Top 10 best looking cars BUICK



I like some of the new Buicks, but when I heard the rear end on one of the
ones I like was designed in China, it put me off the car all together.

I agree, a clean W126 sill turns heads.  For me, a W126 with a 560 engine 
is

a pretty hard to beat package.  I may not do some of the things a more
modern car can do, but it does everything I want from a car, very very
well.  While I'm not actively searching for one, when I do come across a
really clean one, I always leave a note and my number on the windshield.

Ed
300E 



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Re: [MBZ] R12

[Hursley]

I have a few cans too since my cars are no longer on R12.  If interested, 
email me privately.


- Original Message - 
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] R12



Understand R12; not substitute; I'll take 'em.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] R12




Selling. I have 3? cans I think.

On 09/03/2010 09:08 AM, WILTON wrote:

Is that an offer?  How many?

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 8:51 AM
Subject: [MBZ] R12



Just in time for winter. $20/can.

-Rolf

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Re: [MBZ] W210 chassis rear questions

[Hursley]

I had the same problem on the W210 chassis and was the driver's rear.  I was 
able to resolve this with the Service Manager.


Here's the thing you need to try if this duplicate the sound.  You need the 
car in the garage where the external sounds are not in play (so you can hear 
better) and don't need the engine to run.
   a) have someone (greater than 150 pounds) sat in the rear where the 
sound comes from ... in your case passenger rear.
   b) let the rear door opens and make sure the passenger is not moving 
(using it as dead weight).
   c) push the rear end up and down like you were testing the shock 
absorber (usually it is quiet on absorber test).


I was able to do this and duplicate the sound.  And if I have the person sat 
on the other side of the rear seats, I fail to duplicate the sound.  If you 
do not hear the sound, I am sorry that this method fails.


I came to the dealer 3 times on the same problem.  As the first time, tech 
could not do it, second time, chief mechanics also failed.  Then I had a 
guest who came by the weekend and I accidentaly did the absorber test and 
found the problem.  Then proceed to see the Srv Mgr and test drove on all 
terrains (fast and slow turns, smooth, bumpy and railroad crossings) and he 
failed to duplicate.  Then I told him of my trick and immediately he knew 
how to solve my issue.


Good luck.

K.S.
still happy with my '99 W210

- Original Message - 
From: John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 12:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ] W210 chassis rear questions


I've got some fun ahead of me this weekend... I have to pull the 
passenger side rear wheel and investigate some noises.


The first is a constant speed (the frequency is not affected by engine 
rpm or ground-speed) vibration/thumping. It does not increase or  decrease 
in intensity when turning left or right, but it does increase  and 
decrease with relation to ground speed (acceleration/deceleration/ 
coasting has no effect), but it is not linear, rather it will peak  around 
a certain speed, and fall off for a bit and then peak again at  another 
higher speed...


It is most noticable when the car is buttoned up tight, but it can  also 
be heard reflecting off a jersey wall when the right rear window  is down 
(but not on any of the others).


About 2-3 mos ago, the thing went in for B-service and I requested a  test 
drive with a description of the issue, and I was told that the  tech did 
not see or hear anything/was unable to reproduce...


The problem is not likely to be tires, as new rubber did not change a 
thing.  Likewise, as tire rotation hasn't moved the noise, I don't  think 
that the wheels are involved.


I am suspecting that this is caused by some vibration (probably  coplanar 
with the wheel) pumping the suspension, and it is only  noticable at the 
suspension's resonant frequency.


I gave it some spirited test driving, including some ... aggressive... 
cornering exercises, and was unable to discern a difference under  various 
conditions.


What I did notice is that since the cornering exercises, there is a  NEW 
noise, not unlike a bent dust shield rubbing a rotor.  This IS  affected 
by turns/cornering; when a left turn is made, the noise  starts, and it 
will persist until a left turn is made, or after a few  miles of straight 
driving.  More spirited turns have a more noticable  effect.


I stuck my head under there, and was unable to spot any obvious  rubbing, 
so I parked it and am driving the 85 300d now...  I'm going  to put it up 
on stands and pop the wheel and rotor for a look-see this  weekend.


I'm suspecting that (at 175-180Kmi), the right rear bearing has gone,  and 
is inducing the vibration... The spirited cornering was probably  enough 
to take it over the edge, and the axle can now wobble,  resulting in the 
rotor touching the dust shield...


Of course I will find out more soon enough.

Does this sound like a good theory? (with the wheel and rotor off, rub 
marks will be obvious.)


I suspect that if this is the case, I should probably replace the disc/ 
discs and pads too.  Should I also do a shock due to wear induced by  the 
vibration? What about the links? (I presume that doing the links  and/or 
wheel carrier bushing will require an alignment...)


If I replace suspension bits on one side, would it be best to replace  the 
same bits on the other side?


It looks like the links are pretty much cut-and dry, and I have done 
rotors and pads before (and even parking brake shoes on a 126.120).


The diff mounts and bearings look like a MAJOR PITA. Has anyone done  them 
before?  if so, do you have any tips/hints?  Are the bearings a 
double-race flat seat ball bearing or are they double race angle/taper 
seat?


I am hoping that any wobble will make them easier to break apart when 
pulling the flange out... And that I can do it with a BF slide hammer 
(5lb or so)... If not then it would 

Re: [MBZ] Real heroes

[Hursley]

Thank you for sharing it.

As a volunteer EMT, I had trouble getting blood pressure while the ambulance 
is moving (noisy engine), literally bouncing around and with siren.


I really envy those PJ with excellent skills in hearing (or they do have 
special stethoscope).  Neat trick is writing the vitals on their hands with 
markers.  One can easily lost the paper (with vitals) in the air except in 
civilian hospital.


One good thing about the PJ is that they don't have anyone with heart 
attack.  Otherwise they had to land immediately to do the AED.  For us, we 
had to move to the side, shut the engine off and perform both CPR and AED.


K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: relng...@aol.com

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 12:25 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Real heroes


Great Photography!

Subject: USAF Para-rescue In Afghanistan

Photos of USAF Para-rescue in Afghanistan. Fantastic pictures are adorned
with a crisp, witty, informative lingo. This stuff is what legends are made
of, and these folks are deservedly proud of their jolly green or
Pedro community.

http://aimpoints.hq.af.mil/display.cfm?id=35673

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] Real heroes

[Hursley]

Curt, chest compression is still in as it helps to save life.  If one does 
the chest compression before the EMT arrives, the patient survial is high. 
The common folks do not have the AED at home or in the car.


Peter, I was wrong.  The PJ did use electronic monitoring to do BP as they 
were able to get sys/dia numbers.  See the picture in the middle.  Yes, we 
do get BP by palpation only if we can't use the stethoscope.  At times, I 
barely get pulse as patient tense up or sensitive on their limbs.


K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 10:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Real heroes


I heard on the radio that chest compressions may be on the way out as they 
don't really seem to improve your chance of survival. Rescue breathing on 
the other hand seems to be the real deal.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 17:13:04 -0500
From: Peter T. Arnold pm7...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Real heroes
Message-ID: 4b5239f0.5030...@comcast.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

When we were EMT Basic, We'd take B/P by palpation. In event to Cardio
Arrest, We'd put in an air way and do CPR. That way the dead fellow
would have good color at hospital arrival.
I did CPR on maybe 100 folks in 12 years, just 1 walked out of the
hospital. Much better odds now that there is blinf defib protocal.


--
Pete Arnold 32?

There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and
mountaineering; all the rest are merely games. - Ernest Hemingway


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Re: [MBZ] New member intro and 190e question or two

[Hursley]

Mine '93 190E2.3 engine is having a (first time) oil leak into the coolant
at 169K miles.  Mine is ready to do both a head gasket job and water
pump replacement.  I am short of time until Thanksgiving is over.  Just
managed to drove 1K more by watching oil and coolant all the time.
The water pump was replaced at 90K miles. This car was with me
since new (14 miles).  I have not look into the manual on replacing the
head gasket; just going through on the water pump.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New member intro and 190e question or two


Chances are that a head gasket will fix all.  However, those engines will 
often run a long time with some seepage.  You might just do as Gary 
suggested and change the coolant and let her drive it.  It might seep a 
little but last for years without bothering the headgasket.


The M103 engine is a good one, but is prone to headgasket seepage/leaking 
For parts call Rusty @ 800 741 5252.  You will get good prices and great 
service.


On 11/9/09 10:41 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:
all of those motors seep some oil into the coolant.  is it leaking 
coolant

out the rear or oil?

imagine the coolant hasn't been changed in over a decade.  a little 
seepage

would become noticeable, no?

depending on the leak in the rear, i'd consider just changing out the 
hoses

and flushing out the cooling system.  replace it with the mercedes
forumaltion, which is xerex G05.  drive it around and see what happens.



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 9:01 PM, Jim Arnottjr.arn...@gmail.com  wrote:


Good evening folks,

I am Jim Arnott, a long time VW owner (and list admin for a bunch of VW
lists) and possibly a new used Mercedes owner. I live in NE Oregon and 
have
been driving/repairing VWs most of my life.  I have an opportunity to 
pick
up a '92 190e 2.6 for not a lot of money.  I have a single mom daughter 
that
needs wheels and saving you all the long story, if we were to toss a 
shiny

Merc her way it would please her to no end (and get her off my back!)

The 190 that I'm looking at has oil in the coolant so it obviously need 
a
head gasket. It's also leaking at the rear of the engine and I expect 
that

that may well be a head gasket issue as well. Changing out the gasket
doesn't look like too big of project, but I do have a question about one
part of the process.

The service manual 01.1101 I - 415/4 step 8 says Use impact extractor 
116

589 20 33 00 to withdraw slide rail pin (74).

Not having impact extractor 116 589 20 33 00 to withdraw slide rail pin, 
is
there a work around? A substitute tool? Does the slide rail pin really 
need

to be extracted to RR the head gasket?

Second question: From what I've gathered through the Googles, head 
gasket
failure seems to be typical on the 2.6 motor at around 100k miles.  Is 
this
a true statement and how likely is it that a simple replacement will 
cure
its ills? There is no evidence that the motor has been overheated and 
the
oil in the coolant is a relatively recent occurrence. The motor runs 
strong,
has 3 bar oil pressure hot and the temp gauge sits right at 87 deg on a 
20
mile drive at highway speeds. There is no cold pressurization of the 
cooling

system so it appears that there is no compression leakage to the cooling
system (A common VW problem.)

Thank you in advance for you wisdom.

Jim Arnott
Union, OR 



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Re: [MBZ] ticketable

[Hursley]

I just need to add a point about waving his right to emergency care.

I am taking the EMS class and that during an emergency if the patient
(in this case he refuse to wear the belt and braclet waving one right) is
unconscious we still have to give medical aid.  Unless he is awake and
in a good mental state then he can refuse medical aid or has a DO NOT
RESUSCITATE signed by the doctor then we are free (still not 100%).
This are the NHTSA regulations.  Regardless, he has a very good
chance of spending or squandering the funds.

The DNR (DO NOT RES...) order is for terminal ill patients and
mostly likely are bed-bound.  The order has a life expectancy of six
months and renewable by doc (applies in NJ and not sure about
other states).

K.S.
M.B.s (all gasser, no diesel)

- Original Message - 
From: Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net

To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ticketable



I agree with you 100% Allan...I think that someone who refuses to wear a
seat belt should not have to pay a fine.  I think he should be given a
choice in court to either pay the fine or to wear a medical bracelet from
then on waiving his right to emergency care.  I don't think our society
should have to pay for his lack of foresight and prudence by squandering 
our

limited medical resources.  Same way helmets for motorcyclists.

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300TD (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics
'97 F-250HD Crew Cab 7.3 Powerstroke 



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[MBZ] FORD new diesel engine

[Hursley]

See

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2009/08/first-look-fords-new-6-7-liter-v-8-scorpion-power-stroke-diesel-engine.html

Sorry, I am not a diesel head and also if you guys know this already.

K.S.
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Re: [MBZ] Car find of the day: '65 220SEb for $2800 in LA

[Hursley]

I have 5 dealers in a 50 miles radius but traffic is the nightmare.

The closest one is 10 miles and one customer did asked for MBCA
discount (while I was standing in line) and the parts department guy
said sorry, we don't take them.  I was a MBCA member for
15 yrs and then let it lapse for 10 years due to politics at local level.

I buy most parts from Rusty unless I have to have it now, then I get
it locally.

And I do belong to the PCA and enjoy the magazines more than the
MBCA!

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 11:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car find of the day: '65 220SEb for $2800 in LA


Many dealers offer a 10% discount on parts.  If your local dealer 
doesn't, ask them to.  But then we usually save MORE than 10% by 
buying from Rusty.  Since I have no workable dealer within 100 miles, 
I just buy from Rusty.  Much less hassle, other than the wait.  I 
have enough cars, that if one is down waiting for parts, it is an 
inconvenience, but not a big problem.


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Re: [MBZ] Crankshaft sensor woes

[Hursley]

I have the same dilemma as you all.  My 190E2.3 has 2 sensors -- one front 
and one back.
I have to take the fan, belt, and tension pulley off before I can access it 
and replace it with
a good one.  So far, I have done this removing tension pulley about 4 times 
this month.  The
last time I did it was yesterday for the sensor and my hand is burn from the 
belt.  Now for
the back, I tried looking for the wire but somehow it submerged into 
behind and on

somewhere near the top of the transmission.  I cannot even find the sensor.

And now, I broken one important part along the way  back to Rusty to get 
the part.


K.S.


- Original Message - 
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@pisquared.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Crankshaft sensor woes



On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 12:47:25 -0400 Ken Rushing ken.rush...@gmail.com
wrote:


Does anyone have any other suggestions before I remove the transmission?
(87 420 SEL)Thanks, Ken


Nope, sorry. You do have my sympathies, though. I'm still trying to get
the power steering bracket off our '94 E420.

Hmmm ... 420SEL, E420 ... any coincidence they're hard to work on?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] What Have I Done?

[Hursley]

Ken,

I am doing the same thing on my 190E2.3  --- replacing the cranshaft 
sensors.  I have 2 of them one behind the engine and the other is closed to 
the pulleys.  Do you just have one sensor?


K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Ken Rushing ken.rush...@gmail.com

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] What Have I Done?



Where is the crank position sensor on that car?  If you unplugged it
the ignition will be dead since it's waiting for the position sensor
signal.

I think it is on the backside of the engine up against the top end of the
transmission. I did unplug this from the back thinking it would need to be
disconnected to remove the transmission but it didn't so I reconnected it. 
I
don't see how I could have damaged it... I removed the small allen bolt 
and

lifted the plastic connection off. Underneath I noticed a small flat key
that fits into the plastic connection. When putting it back together I 
made
sure the flat key fit correctly in the plastic connection and installed 
the
allen bolt. This may be my problem but it seemed that I reinstalled the 
same
way it was removed. How could I test to see if I have messed this sensor 
up?

And where does the other side of this sensor connect to?
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[MBZ] Thank you; Rusty Tom of BUYMBParts

[Hursley]

Rusty --- thank you for helping me to diagnois the 190E 2.3 engine over the 
phone (wonder if you have a long stethoscope to listen on my engine coughing) 
and getting the parts order.  Came this morning with the replacement parts Tom 
order for me.

Tom --- thank you for sending me the parts (under warranty) by next day air so 
that my car can be on the road again.  Yes, it arrives this morning coming from 
left coast to right coast.  I will be sending back the broken parts this 
afternoon.  Will email you the tracking number.

Service at BUYMBParts is incredible execellent and thanks again.

K.S. (nj)
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[MBZ] problem while driving 190E2.3

[Hursley]

Hi all,

I am trying to seek your wisdom on my '93 190E2.3 car.  The battery is good as 
it register 12.8V before starting and 14.4V while running.  I just replace the 
tension pulley about a month ago and belt about a year ago.

The problem is while driving, the engine mysteriously shut off by itself.  The 
first light to appear is battery low while all others did not light at all.  
And I immediately put it to neutral and try to start.  It takes about 3 or 4 
cranks to get it running.  But at all other times, it starts on 1 crank.  The 
gas is good as I put the same brand 87 octane all the time.

I thought it was alternator but could not since it is charging good.  The belt 
tension is good.   Engine light did not come on, no blinking code to obtain.

Thanks for listening.

K.S.

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Re: [MBZ] problem while driving 190E2.3

[Hursley]

Yes, it says premium.  I changed it to regular for the past 3 years and 
found no pinging, running well and I do not do fast start.


The fuel pump relay was changed about 4 years ago.  Doubt it comes bad that 
quick.  The original lasted about 12 years.  Also, will the fuel pump relay 
cause the check engine code to lid on?


Thanks.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] problem while driving 190E2.3



Hursley wrote:
 The gas is good as I put the same brand 87 octane all the time.

The car doesn't say premium fuel only?
I thought all 2.3s did. (not that this has anything to do with your engine 
shutting itself off, the fuel pump relay is still the #1 suspect there)
Mitch. 



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Re: [MBZ] 87 MBZ 420 SEL High temp

[Hursley]

Sorry, I am slow on this one (was admitted to ER and spend 14 hrs there due 
to my heart pulse at 160 for an hour).


Did you check the temperature switch in the engine?  I had this problem in 
my 190E which runs high even though I did flush the system, changed the 
radiator cap, change the thermostat.  It was the switch that fails to run 
when it is at around 90.


Good luck.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 MBZ 420 SEL High temp




My former 82 300SD ran hot when I first got it, but only at speeds above 
about 30-40 mph.  If you got out on the highway it would run up in the 90s 
(C) and just sit there.  Drop down to a lower speed and the temp dropped 
down to the expected 87C.


1.) Cleaned the radiator.  That is, removed it and pressure washed the 
core.  It was nasty.  No joy.


2.) Replaced the thermostat.  Rumors abound of Behr thermostats being 
grossly inconsistent.  Not this time.


3.) Made sure the little bypass line was working.  Yup, clean as a 
whistle.


4.) Replace water pump - the pump that came off was a NAPA pump.  Oh, boy, 
this has GOT to be it.  Nope.


5.) Take radiator out and have the guy that did all of our industrial 
engine radiators take a look at it.  Bingo.



At some point in time, the PO ran the evil green stuff in it, and long 
enough that it got exhausted and a great deal of the chemicals dropped out 
of solution.  So much so to the point that it clogged the center tubes of 
the core.  Interestingly enough, when he rodded the core out, only a 
circular portion of the radiator tubes were clogged, that is, the very 
center of the core where air flow (fan hub) was at the lowest.


So, the reason it would work fine at lower speeds was because I had plenty 
of surface area to dump the heat.  At high speeds when I needed all of the 
radiator surface to dump engine heat to ambient air, I didn't have it. 
Therefore, the excess heat remained in the cooling system and the 
temperature of the system increased.


I got into the habit of taking every radiator out of my MBs after that 
point and having them professionally cleaned.  It's an easy job and 
relatively cheap (used to be well under $100.)


Dan



--- On Sat, 4/25/09, Luther benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:


From: Luther benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 MBZ 420 SEL High temp
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Saturday, April 25, 2009, 2:25 PM
My SDL is in that same shape

Luther

OK Don wrote:
 Every time I've had an engine runnig hot, a new
radiator cured it. Cleaning
 the old one has only made minor differences. Seems
that every car I've
 gotten that has had green coolant has needed a new
radiator.







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[MBZ] help on removing the E320 4-matic universal joint

[Hursley]

The vehicle is a '99 E320 seadan 4-matic and I need to remove the nut on the 
universal joint and tie-rod too.

I tried the following tools and fail to losen the nut.
a) 22 mm socket
b) 22 mm open wrench
c) 22 mm crowlsfoot

The reasons on my failure are
i) cannot put the 22 mm socket into the nut even though it is a 22mm nut 
because there is very little room for the socket to sit in between the nut and 
the fixed arm wall.
ii)  tried the open wrench (fit well into the nut) but could not turn as 
there is NO room for it to move.
iii) the problem of the 22 mm crowlsfoot is same as the open wrench.

Another issue, I am trying to replace the spark plugs on the same vehicle (97K 
miles) ---
1) got to use a special 17mm (open wrench) to remove the spark plug wires 
(this step is easy).
2) put the 16 mm socket wrench (special for the spark plug) and fails to 
losen it.

Are all these maintenance had to be done specially at the dealer?  Or the 
engine has to be remove in order to change it?  Or do any one know of a special 
tool to perform the loosing/tightening nut on the universal joint and spark 
plug?

Thank you.

K.S.
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[MBZ] 1999 E320 4-Matic starting problem

[Hursley]

Hi all,

My E320 starts fine on some day and then some day it would not start, just tack 
tack tack and would not turn over.

I like to know the problem and if possible which part to replace from you all 
wisdom.

When it refuse to starts, it didn't matter how many times I tried it.  There is 
NO check engine light and I replaced it with the MB battery just 2 days ago 
(not Interstate or others).  Even with new battery, it still did not start.  
The only trick is to turn off the ignition and wait 5 minutes, starts the car 
while depressing the gas pedal.  Today it started fine and then at the traffic 
light, it just quits and would not starts.  Then I had to go back to the 
trick to get it going.

The car status  1993, original starter, 94K miles, fuel filter was changed 
at 60K about 4 yrs ago.

My guess is fuel filter.  

Thanks for your input.

K.S.
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[MBZ] Thank you, Rusty @ buymbparts.com

[Hursley]

for a good job.  I did ordered the parts on Wednesday in the afternoon and 
it arrived on Thursday morning.  Fast delivery.

Now, I am off to work on the car.

Thank you again.

K.S. 


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Saab

[Hursley]

I used to own a '84 SAAB since new for 13 years.  The only thing that beat 
it but not death was the run into the deer and the front hood (bonnet) is 
damaged and difficult to open.  The collision was at 45 mph and deer run 
across.  The car is still driveable but had a hard time openning the hood. 
I like the way it open wide (opposite of the MB).  Score, deer 0 and SAAB 1. 
The only electrical issue is the master control module which drained a brand 
new battery to death in 2 months.  Changed that and it is fixed.  Never had 
heating or cooling issue, nor AC, just routine maintenance like pads, 
coolant, tires, fluids.  Car was stationed in DC area and was never in the 
garage.

Always remember to release the hand brake.  It worn out the rear easily.

Starting is on the floor in the center console.

Otherwise a very fine car to drive especially in the winter (front wheel 
drive).

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Saab


I found a 1994 Saab 900 for sale cheap. Of all the cars I have ever had, I 
have never owned a Saab.  So, I don't know much about them. It is not a 
turbo. I drove it, with the 5 speed, it is pretty sporty. Anyone know 
anything about these cars.

 Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 190E

[hursley]

Mine is a '93 and is a 2.3.  Never make above 28mpg on premium gas.  Unless 
I really had a good tail wind blowing or my car is hook up to the semi and 
gets good mileage.  :-)  Occasionally, I do get around 24 to 26.  City is 18 
to 20.

One thing you better check is the wiring harness.  Mine is to the tune of 
$2000.  A/C another $2300 as I still use the R12 and never convert to R134. 
These are the only very heavy expenses I did incurred.

Other than that are minor things called maintenance.

I did not had any warranty problem as it was the last year they make the 
190E; also it was manufactured in May '93.  Sold immediately once it got to 
the shore.  Could not get any reductions or negotiations back then.

Seating in the back is for very small kids.

Price well --- I leave it to Kaleb.

What's the color and interior?

I like mine and still driving today with 146K miles on it.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 1:31 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1991 190E


 There is a 1991 190 E with 194,000 miles for sale near here.  I don't know 
 if I have ever driven a 190E.  They had a 2.3, correct?  The seller claims 
 33 mpg on the highway.  That sounds pretty steep.  Is it?  I am 6'3 and 
 265.  Can I fit into one of these?  I need lots of shoulder room.  I 
 assume the back seat is mostly for kids not real human sized adults.   Any 
 other suggestions would be great.  In the pictures, it looks like a decent 
 car.  He priced it at $2000.  I was thinking more like $1200 -1400.   What 
 is a good price - beyond a $500 Kaleb offer.

 Donald H. Snook 


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Re: [MBZ] Peter 300D a/c problem

[hursley]

Peter,

Assuming that there is no leak.   The speed sensor in the compressor is one 
issue.  The next is the controller switch which regulates when it is on and 
off.

If you think there is a leak, then the compressor will not turn at all. 
Then it is possible the evaporator like you said.

That's all from the book.  Others are air flow, sensors in the cabin, 
engine, etc. which are not related to the compressor not staying on.

Hope you fix the problem as summer is getting near.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: hursley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 7:23 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Peter 300D a/c problem


I know that if the charge is low, compressor will not turn at all.

 I go back to the book and see what could be possible fixes.

 Thanks again.

 K.S.

 - Original Message - 
 From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 6:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue


 My pleasure.  Glad it was an easy fix!

 Now I have to find out why the compressor won't stay on in the 300D
 -- speed sensor problem, but I don't know if the sensor is bad or the
 wiring is fubar'd, haven't had time to figure it out.  Low on charge,
 too, so I gotta find and fix the leak -- anyone want to bet on an
 evaporator?

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue

[hursley]

Sorry for the delay I had to prepare for the trip to Ann Arbor, MI for 
my son's graduation on April 26.  It is the U. of MI (GO BLUE).  Any alumni 
from the wolverines?   He's a EE major.  Ever thought of 12,000 plus 
graduate at the same time (B, M and PhD).  The last time I did it was 6,000 
at U. of WI (about 30 yrs ago).

The temperature switch was faulty as it should have turn the fan between 90 
and 100. It did not and hence it runs hot.

Peter was right on.  Thanks.

K.S.


- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue


 Actually, the temperature shouldn't get that high except while sitting in 
 traffic stopped on a very hot day.  The 190 can run a bit hotter than a 
 W124 chassis due to the electric clutch on the main fan (tends to be less 
 responsive to temp, and is on or off, not gradual slip like the visco 
 clutch), but 100C while moving is way too hot.

 That said, the temperature sensor is probably bad, too.  The AC compressor 
 should restart when the temp drops back to normal.  I think there is a 
 required difference, but don't know exactly what.

 Peter



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[MBZ] Peter 300D a/c problem

[hursley]

I know that if the charge is low, compressor will not turn at all.

I go back to the book and see what could be possible fixes.

Thanks again.

K.S.

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue


 My pleasure.  Glad it was an easy fix!
 
 Now I have to find out why the compressor won't stay on in the 300D  
 -- speed sensor problem, but I don't know if the sensor is bad or the  
 wiring is fubar'd, haven't had time to figure it out.  Low on charge,  
 too, so I gotta find and fix the leak -- anyone want to bet on an  
 evaporator?
 
 Peter

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[MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue

[hursley]

List,

I like to get your infinite wisdom on the air condition issue.

Vehicle is '93, automatic and uses preimum gas (ouch).  Not regular as stated 
in the owner's manual and filler flap.

When the car is cold (meaning, the temperature in the coolant as from the guage 
is at or below 40C) and a/c comes up fine.

While driving down the road, the coolant temperature increase to 100C and then 
the a/c turns off.  That is, when the temperature rise to say 1XX the a/c 
controller unit will shut the a/c down.  It is suppose to wait for it to cool 
back down to 1YY and then kick the a/c.  Mine did not and had to endure the 
whole journey in a cook car.

When the car is cool down after driving, say the engine coolant temperature is 
below 80C, the a/c works immediately when started.  But when it is above 80C, 
the a/c will not engage.  And if it works then during driving, when it hits 
100C, a/c is off.

There is plenty of R12 in the system else the a/c will not produce cool air.  
There is no leak, and if so there will be no cool air when engine is started.  
The ambient temperature is in the high 70'sF.  Somehow, we did not experience 
spring, winter is very mild, and summer is here already in josey (NJ).  Birds 
are singing, flowers and tree pollens everywhere.  And I am sneezing every few 
minutes.

So, what do you guys think on the a/c?  Is there a way to test the unit?

I am just guessing that the controller unit is faulty as it closes when hot and 
never opens when cool.  If this is right, I will be calling Rusty for parts.

Thanks in advance.

K.S.
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Re: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue

[hursley]

Thanks all.  I write the reply using .  The general consensus is to 
check the sensor(s).

OK Don wrote:
rest snip
Your situation isn't exactly like mine, and I have no idea how the
190E is wired, but I'd be looking for miss-wired or bad sensors -
there are several that are meant to prevent engine over-heating by
turning the AC off. I think yours is reacting to sensor input, not a
bad controller.

 I check the sensor input.  Thanks.

Craig McCluskey wrote:
Does it not run well on regular? If both the owner's manual and filler
flap say it should, something is wrong. Unfortunately, I cannot tell you
what.

 Owner's manual says premium gas.  Never tried on regular.  I did tried 
 running regular in a full tank on my '99 E320 4matic which requires 
 premium.  But, I consumed all on the highway Rt 80 in PA and portion of 
 OH.  And then immediately fill it with premium.  No pings or lost of 
 power on the 360 miles ride.  This was done at night when the traffic is 
 less and cooler.

Donald Snook wrote:
Is it possible that you put too much R12 in it?  I think there is a sensor 
on the high pressure line and when the pressure gets too high (which it 
might when the temperature gets higher), the compressor shuts off.  I would 
check the pressures (assuming you have gauges) and the pressures could be 
too high or the sensor might be bad.
Is it cycling all the time?

 I had it measure, 2 lbs and 4ozs exactly stated on the front..  Yes, it 
 cycles all the time when cold.  Thanks.

Peter Frederick wrote:
There is nothing wrong with AC, you have an engine running too hot problem. 
The AC will be shut off when the aux fan comes on due to excessive heat, and 
your main cooling fan is not working correctly -- you should NEVER see 100C 
with normal operation.
You will have to find out why you are running too hot.  Could be a bad 
thermostat, a bad radiator, a failed main fan clutch (they are electric on 
the 190, I think).
You also need to check the condition of the fuel injection system, 
particularly the status of the rubber hoses and the boot between the fuel 
distributor air meter horn and the throttle body.  I suspect you have 
serious leaks, causing persistent lean running and hence knocking on 
regular.  You will also need to check the distributor, as I don't remember 
if there is a mechanical advance in there (unlikely, but check, it could be 
stuck)
You should be running at about 80C unless you are stuck in traffic and it's 
over 110F with 80% RH with a good cooling system.
I would also replace the ACC temp sensor, it could be bad as the AC should 
come back on when the temp goes down.

 Both thermostat and radiator replace less than a year ago.  Fan turning 
 so I think the main fan clutch is working fine.  Will check the rubber 
 hoses.  Also will check the ACC temp sensor.  I am running premium gas 
 and did not hear any knocking or pinging.  Thanks.


- Original Message - 
From: hursley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 3:29 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 190E 2.3 a/c issue


 List,

 I like to get your infinite wisdom on the air condition issue.

 Vehicle is '93, automatic and uses preimum gas (ouch).  Not regular as 
 stated in the owner's manual and filler flap.

 When the car is cold (meaning, the temperature in the coolant as from the 
 guage is at or below 40C) and a/c comes up fine.

 While driving down the road, the coolant temperature increase to 100C and 
 then the a/c turns off.  That is, when the temperature rise to say 1XX the 
 a/c controller unit will shut the a/c down.  It is suppose to wait for it 
 to cool back down to 1YY and then kick the a/c.  Mine did not and had to 
 endure the whole journey in a cook car.

 When the car is cool down after driving, say the engine coolant 
 temperature is below 80C, the a/c works immediately when started.  But 
 when it is above 80C, the a/c will not engage.  And if it works then 
 during driving, when it hits 100C, a/c is off.

 There is plenty of R12 in the system else the a/c will not produce cool 
 air.  There is no leak, and if so there will be no cool air when engine is 
 started.  The ambient temperature is in the high 70'sF.  Somehow, we did 
 not experience spring, winter is very mild, and summer is here already in 
 josey (NJ).  Birds are singing, flowers and tree pollens everywhere.  And 
 I am sneezing every few minutes.

 So, what do you guys think on the a/c?  Is there a way to test the unit?

 I am just guessing that the controller unit is faulty as it closes when 
 hot and never opens when cool.  If this is right, I will be calling Rusty 
 for parts.

 Thanks in advance.

 K.S.
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 1988 190-E - Questions please.

[hursley]

Mine is a 1993 (end of the model year) with 142K miles.

Typical local gas mileage is about 20 and on highway is 27 and runs on
premium gas.

Mine is mostly parked under the sun during the day and night in the garage.
Hence I have door panels replaced (sun beats on it).  Usual routines are
oil change, brake pads, wipers, and air filters.  MB change the oil filter
(used to be long) to a shorter verson (maybe saving a few pennies in 
materials)
and the old version of filter wrench cap is NO applicable.  I got a newer 
one
(3 legs prong) from Stahville which is for my Porsche 993.

The wiring harness on the 190 was replaced one month ago at the tune
of $2K (part  labor) because I had starting issue.  This is due to the
heat from engine and sun.  Now, one crank in the bitter cold morning
and it starts immediately.

I disable the Oxygen light because the computer reminds me to change
the sensor every xK miles is DEAD (another useless gadget).  All I need
is routinely replaced the sensor.

Other than this (for an old car), the rest is same as the disel.

Routine maintenance is all one needs to keep the car running and troubles
free.


- Original Message - 
From: Timothy Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 1:22 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 1988 190-E - Questions please.


 There's a 1988 190-E for sale locally. Description is clean but don't 
 have
 all the particulars except mileage is 180K, automatic.

 I'm not familiar with the gassers. Trying to help my boss find an
 economical car for his son.

 Anyone wanna give me advice about this model? What to look fo/out for? 
 What
 to expect? Typical economy and routine costs? 


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Re: [MBZ] Quality of the 190

[hursley]

OK, as a owner of a 190 2.3 gas (first owner) manufactured in 1993 (last of 
the model
year).  It did not had any teething problem and now getting to 15 yrs old. 
I have no
problem till early this year which are

a) cold start (resolve with the help from this list) - replace valve
b) car runs hot (100C) with 87C thermostat after replacing radiator - think 
it's ok

Otherwise, I did the maintenance myself.  Car odo is 139K (yes very low 
mileage).
I even replace the headlights to euro version (no more yellow fog lights) 
and using
vacuum system to dip the headlights down for oncoming cars.

The car do park in the sun and sometimes under the pine tree which I ended 
up with
sap on it.  I immediately wash it away and now I lost the top clear coat in 
some area.
The car has a few dings due to agressive human opening the door at parking 
lot.  And I
do return back their favor if I do find that it is the same car making the 
spot.

Because of its age and time spend in the sun, I do have another thing, 
replace the wiring
harness as I am having the same problem in cold starting.  Now waiting for 
Germany to
make one now as I type.  Then this get rids of my future electrical 
nightmare.

Other than that, change tires, batteries, oil  oil filters, air filters, 
coolants, brake fluids,
water pump, alternator, behr radiator, starter were replaced.  I guess this 
is pretty much the same
as other die-hard non-gas mb cars.

K.S,
(residing on east coast)

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Quality of the 190


 Same thing happened in my SDL - sp the S-class doesn't have much
 better plastic. 20 years of UV and heat is just to much for some of
 those parts.

 On Dec 11, 2007 1:13 AM, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Very. Solid and tight are good descriptors.
 That is until you try to replace the high-mounted brake light bulb. Then
 things fall apart in your hands.

 Brian



 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
 -Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager


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