> Kaleb wrote:
> The one that came with the MC was much shorter than the MB one
> that came off the car so I stuck the one that came with the MC
> back in. I had a hell of a time compressing it to get it back
> to the bolt hole. Finally got it, screwed it back down and now
> the clutch works!
Next up I need to replace the voltage regulator then get the blower and AC
working. Front end needs to be rebuilt and the flex disks and center support
need to be replaced. Not sure yet if I will do all that or sell as is. One this
is certain I will not be doing any of that unless I get my lift
Glad the trick pony gave one more ride Kaleb.
Congrats on success Now, get out and do a burnout before you do the
Italian tuneup. 240 version. Don't forget to pack a lunch.. ;))
On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 4:29 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Bravo!
>
> Max
Bravo!
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
Jul 5, 2020 6:15:23 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it as is
> rather than cutting it shorter. I filled the tube with fluid from the HF oil
> can squirter then attached it to the bleeder
Attaboy.
Mitch.
On Sun, July 5, 2020 6:15 pm, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> Finally
> got it, screwed it back down and now the clutch works!
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I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it
as is rather than cutting it shorter. I filled the tube with fluid from
the HF oil can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began
pumping. I ended up developing some air pockets in the house so I
removed it from
I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car to where
I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then pump the line
full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave cylinder. Then start
pumping.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 5, 2020, at
I didn't say it would always work. ;)
-Curt
On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser wrote:
> Curt wrote:
> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
> to use the rod from the car, not the
See next posts where I unbolted the rod from the pedal to allow it to freely
extend and still couldn’t bleed it. Going to try the oil can method next.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 5, 2020, at 1:33 AM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Kaleb wrote:
>
>> I had to push the rod in about an
> Curt wrote:
> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
> to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
Can't always do that. I've seen at least three different
rod-to-cylinder interfaces.
> Kaleb wrote:
> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop
> back up to the top on its own if you pop it up a little
Once the lines and cylinders are full of oil, the clutch spring
will help push the master cylinder back to the top.
___
> Kaleb wrote:
> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get
> it to line up with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a
> difference?
YES!
That is too far in. It won't bleed - and the master cylinder will
never get fresh fluid from the reservoir. You must have a rod
> Kaleb wrote:
> ...have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up). I seem to
> recall reading something about certain brands of replacement
> master cylinder the rod does not come all the way back up. I do
> know on this one in
I may have to try using the rod from the last master cylinder. I think the line
is clear but will double check it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear?
> Maybe
Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear?
Maybe that was the problem all along.
My suggestion is to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master. That
was my problem, the original rod got thrown away before I knew it was too long.
That one would still
The cylinder came with 2 rods, the one already installed on it the
instructions say are for 123, the other rod is for 126. I have
completely disconnected it from the clutch pedal so length should not
matter as far as bleeding goes. I am going to try the oil can method
next with a longer
Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..
At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better
I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I have
done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way up, still
continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped
the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed port
When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.
If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will
If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to the
top on its own if you pop it up a little
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> I like one with a rigid spout
Throw in a complete set of "50 Shades of Gray" with the new renter... all
the "master / slave" stuff will be OK then...
On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:44 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> As long as they're the same color it's not racist.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing stays
on better.
As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal should
return to up position... is the return spring OK?
On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18
As long as they're the same color it's not racist.
-- Jim
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In that case should I disconnect the rod from the pedal while bleeding?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Yes, I think that is the problem. The rod is too long. Curt has been down
> this path.
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> Jul
I did compare it next to the old one before installing it and on the old one
the rod stuck out further. Of course it might not have been fully seated in the
bore.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 8:31 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> That's right! And make sure your
Oh crap you are right. I should complain to the parts sites too. What should we
call them?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Please refrain from using these racist designations
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
>> On Jul 3, 2020, at
Yes, I think that is the problem. The rod is too long. Curt has been down
this path.
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
Jul 4, 2020 10:25:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up
> with the pedal mounting point. Would that
If it’s like the clevis rod for a brake cylinder, there should be a small
amount (1/8”) of play between the end of the rod and the piston in the clutch
cylinder.
-D
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or
The pedal stays up on its own with spring pressure. It only stays down if you
push it.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:03 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
>
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via
I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up
with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>>
Something like this?
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with
That's right! And make sure your rental listing doesn't say anything about a
M*r bedroom!
Kidding aside, I think you have touched on the problem: rod for the master
cylinder is too long.
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
Jul 4, 2020 8:16:36 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes :
> Please refrain
Please refrain from using these racist designations
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
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On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>
>>
>> With the clutch pedal up
>>
>
> ^^^ Key words there.
> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
> cylinder.
If you just want
On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
> With the clutch pedal up
^^^ Key words there.
If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
cylinder.
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Forgot to make note:
Be sure the oil pump gun is clean of oil, or use a new one [they are cheap
items at FLAPS.]
On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 10:34 PM G Mann wrote:
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid,
My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
tight,
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