Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Kaleb wrote:

> The one that came with the MC was much shorter than the MB one
> that came off the car so I stuck the one that came with the MC
> back in.  I had a hell of a time compressing it to get it back
> to the bolt hole.  Finally got it, screwed it back down and now
> the clutch works!

If the master cylinder piston doesn't go ALL the way to the top,
the port where fluid gets in from the reservoir will be covered
and no fluid will ever get in to deal with clutch wear or leaks.

It might take compressing the piston a bit to get it all in there,
but the rod should not be tight - ie, it should not be pushing the
piston in at all.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Next up I need to replace the voltage regulator then get the blower and AC 
working. Front end needs to be rebuilt and the flex disks and center support 
need to be replaced. Not sure yet if I will do all that or sell as is. One this 
is certain I will not be doing any of that unless I get my lift going. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2020, at 6:38 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> Glad the trick pony gave one more ride Kaleb.
> 
> Congrats on success Now, get out and do a burnout before you do the
> Italian tuneup. 240 version. Don't forget to pack a lunch.. ;))
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 4:29 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Bravo!
>> 
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> Jul 5, 2020 6:15:23 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes >> :
>> 
>>> I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it
>> as is rather than cutting it shorter.  I filled the tube with fluid from
>> the HF oil can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began pumping.
>> I ended up developing some air pockets in the house so I removed it from
>> the bleeder again and got them out.  I determined the issue the whole time
>> might have been I did not have the bleeder loose enough.  I loosened it
>> some more and continued pumping.  After a while I noticed a small amount of
>> movement in the brake reservoir.  Then the level started to slowly rise.  I
>> closed the bleeder screw then went under the dash to pull the linkage rod
>> out to install the one originally on the car.  The one that came with the
>> MC was much shorter than the MB one that came off the car so I stuck the
>> one that came with the MC back in.  I had a hell of a time compressing it
>> to get it back to the bolt hole.  Finally got it, screwed it back down and
>> now the clutch works!  I am not sure if it was a matter of leaving the rod
>> disconnected from the clutch pedal, opening the bleed screw more, or using
>> the oil can instead of the hose connected to brake caliper.  At the end of
>> the day I think I prefer the oil can method because using the caliper has
>> the potential to pump dirty brake fluid up into the brand new clutch
>> hydraulics (although in this case the fluid looks clean like it was
>> recently flushed.
>>> 
>>> On 7/5/2020 3:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
 I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car
>> to where I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then
>> pump the line full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave
>> cylinder. Then start pumping.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  I didn't say it would always work. ;)
> -Curt
> 
>> On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Curt wrote:
>> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
>> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
>> to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
> Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
> rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Glad the trick pony gave one more ride Kaleb.

Congrats on success Now, get out and do a burnout before you do the
Italian tuneup. 240 version. Don't forget to pack a lunch.. ;))

On Sun, Jul 5, 2020 at 4:29 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Bravo!
>
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> Jul 5, 2020 6:15:23 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes  >:
>
> > I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it
> as is rather than cutting it shorter.  I filled the tube with fluid from
> the HF oil can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began pumping.
> I ended up developing some air pockets in the house so I removed it from
> the bleeder again and got them out.  I determined the issue the whole time
> might have been I did not have the bleeder loose enough.  I loosened it
> some more and continued pumping.  After a while I noticed a small amount of
> movement in the brake reservoir.  Then the level started to slowly rise.  I
> closed the bleeder screw then went under the dash to pull the linkage rod
> out to install the one originally on the car.  The one that came with the
> MC was much shorter than the MB one that came off the car so I stuck the
> one that came with the MC back in.  I had a hell of a time compressing it
> to get it back to the bolt hole.  Finally got it, screwed it back down and
> now the clutch works!  I am not sure if it was a matter of leaving the rod
> disconnected from the clutch pedal, opening the bleed screw more, or using
> the oil can instead of the hose connected to brake caliper.  At the end of
> the day I think I prefer the oil can method because using the caliper has
> the potential to pump dirty brake fluid up into the brand new clutch
> hydraulics (although in this case the fluid looks clean like it was
> recently flushed.
> >
> > On 7/5/2020 3:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> >> I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car
> to where I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then
> pump the line full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave
> cylinder. Then start pumping.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>  I didn't say it would always work. ;)
> >>> -Curt
> >>>
>  On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser 
> wrote:
> 
>  Curt wrote:
>  Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
>  is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
>  to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
> >>> Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
> >>> rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.
> >>>
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>>
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> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Bravo!

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 5, 2020 6:15:23 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it as is 
> rather than cutting it shorter.  I filled the tube with fluid from the HF oil 
> can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began pumping.  I ended up 
> developing some air pockets in the house so I removed it from the bleeder 
> again and got them out.  I determined the issue the whole time might have 
> been I did not have the bleeder loose enough.  I loosened it some more and 
> continued pumping.  After a while I noticed a small amount of movement in the 
> brake reservoir.  Then the level started to slowly rise.  I closed the 
> bleeder screw then went under the dash to pull the linkage rod out to install 
> the one originally on the car.  The one that came with the MC was much 
> shorter than the MB one that came off the car so I stuck the one that came 
> with the MC back in.  I had a hell of a time compressing it to get it back to 
> the bolt hole.  Finally got it, screwed it back down and now the clutch 
> works!  I am not sure if it was a matter of leaving the rod disconnected from 
> the clutch pedal, opening the bleed screw more, or using the oil can instead 
> of the hose connected to brake caliper.  At the end of the day I think I 
> prefer the oil can method because using the caliper has the potential to pump 
> dirty brake fluid up into the brand new clutch hydraulics (although in this 
> case the fluid looks clean like it was recently flushed.
> 
> On 7/5/2020 3:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car to 
>> where I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then pump 
>> the line full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave 
>> cylinder. Then start pumping.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>>  I didn't say it would always work. ;)
>>> -Curt
>>> 
 On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser  wrote:
 
 Curt wrote:
 Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
 is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
 to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
>>> Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
>>> rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
Attaboy.
Mitch.

On Sun, July 5, 2020 6:15 pm, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>  Finally
> got it, screwed it back down and now the clutch works!


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it 
as is rather than cutting it shorter.  I filled the tube with fluid from 
the HF oil can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began 
pumping.  I ended up developing some air pockets in the house so I 
removed it from the bleeder again and got them out.  I determined the 
issue the whole time might have been I did not have the bleeder loose 
enough.  I loosened it some more and continued pumping.  After a while I 
noticed a small amount of movement in the brake reservoir.  Then the 
level started to slowly rise.  I closed the bleeder screw then went 
under the dash to pull the linkage rod out to install the one originally 
on the car.  The one that came with the MC was much shorter than the MB 
one that came off the car so I stuck the one that came with the MC back 
in.  I had a hell of a time compressing it to get it back to the bolt 
hole.  Finally got it, screwed it back down and now the clutch works!  I 
am not sure if it was a matter of leaving the rod disconnected from the 
clutch pedal, opening the bleed screw more, or using the oil can instead 
of the hose connected to brake caliper.  At the end of the day I think I 
prefer the oil can method because using the caliper has the potential to 
pump dirty brake fluid up into the brand new clutch hydraulics (although 
in this case the fluid looks clean like it was recently flushed.


On 7/5/2020 3:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car to where 
I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then pump the line 
full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave cylinder. Then start 
pumping.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
wrote:

 I didn't say it would always work. ;)
-Curt


On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser  wrote:

Curt wrote:
Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.

Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car to where 
I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then pump the line 
full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave cylinder. Then start 
pumping. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
>  I didn't say it would always work. ;)
> -Curt
> 
>>On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser  wrote: 
>>  
>> 
>> Curt wrote:
> 
>> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
>> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
>> to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
> 
> Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
> rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 I didn't say it would always work. ;)
-Curt

On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser  wrote:  
 
 > Curt wrote:

> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
> to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.

Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.

  
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
See next posts where I unbolted the rod from the pedal to allow it to freely 
extend and still couldn’t bleed it. Going to try the oil can method next.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2020, at 1:33 AM, fmiser via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> Kaleb wrote:
> 
>> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get
>> it to line up with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a
>> difference?
> 
> YES!
> 
> That is too far in.  It won't bleed - and the master cylinder will
> never get fresh fluid from the reservoir.  You must have a rod
> that is not too long.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Curt wrote:

> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
> is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
> to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.

Can't always do that.  I've seen at least three different
rod-to-cylinder interfaces.  Not all were interchangeable.


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Kaleb wrote:

> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop
> back up to the top on its own if you pop it up a little 

Once the lines and cylinders are full of oil, the clutch spring
will help push the master cylinder back to the top.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Kaleb wrote:

> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get
> it to line up with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a
> difference?

YES!

That is too far in.  It won't bleed - and the master cylinder will
never get fresh fluid from the reservoir.  You must have a rod
that is not too long.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Kaleb wrote:

> ...have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to
> recall reading something about certain brands of replacement
> master cylinder the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do
> know on this one in order to attach it to the brake pedal I had
> it push the rod in maybe an 8th of an inch or so.

That's the problem.

It will ONLY bleed if the master cylinder is ALL THE WAY out.  1/16" depressed 
blocked the port on mine.

> Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?

I will never fill with fluid if that port is covered.  Shorten the
rod, either by adjusting the eccentric bolt or by grinding off the
end of the rod.

I think it was TRW brand that I got that I had to grind off the
rod.  It came with both a short and a long - and neither was right!

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I may have to try using the rod from the last master cylinder. I think the line 
is clear but will double check it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear? 
> Maybe that was the problem all along.
> My suggestion is to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master. 
> That was my problem, the original rod got thrown away before I knew it was 
> too long. That one would still bleed it just had a weird high clutch with 
> short engagement.
> Curt
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 2:45 PM, Kaleb Striplin via 
> Mercedes wrote:   I don’t feel any resistance what so 
> ever when pushing the pedal. What I have done today is I unbolted the rod 
> from the pedal so it is all the way up, still continuing with the line hooked 
> from brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several 
> minutes, closed the bleed port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal 
> (which requires being pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went 
> thru this several times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil 
> squirt cans and will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from 
> under the car and pump fluid in while watching the reservoir. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
>> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
>> pressure engagement.
>> 
>> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
>> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
>> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
>> 
>> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
>> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
>> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
>> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
>> done one.
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>>> wrote:
 
 Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
 I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>>> stays
 on better.
 
 As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>>> should
 return to up position... is the return spring OK?
 
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> wrote:
>> 
>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>>> hand
>> pump oil gun.
>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>>> output
>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>>> not
>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
>> want it under the hood].
>> 
>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> fluid
>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>>> Check
>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
>> 
>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>>> have
>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> the
>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> cap...
>> 
>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> you
>> should have a clutch that works.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>>> to
>>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>>> pedal
>>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>>> an
>>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave is clear? 
Maybe that was the problem all along.
My suggestion is to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master. That 
was my problem, the original rod got thrown away before I knew it was too long. 
That one would still bleed it just had a weird high clutch with short 
engagement.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 2:45 PM, Kaleb Striplin via 
Mercedes wrote:   I don’t feel any resistance what so 
ever when pushing the pedal. What I have done today is I unbolted the rod from 
the pedal so it is all the way up, still continuing with the line hooked from 
brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, 
closed the bleed port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which 
requires being pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this 
several times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans 
and will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and 
pump fluid in while watching the reservoir. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> pressure engagement.
> 
> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> 
> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> done one.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
>>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>> stays
>>> on better.
>>> 
>>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>> should
>>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
>>> 
 On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 Something like this?
 
 https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>> hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>> output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>> not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
 fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>> Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>> have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
 the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
 cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
 you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>> to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>> pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>> an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
The cylinder came with 2 rods, the one already installed on it the 
instructions say are for 123, the other rod is for 126.  I have 
completely disconnected it from the clutch pedal so length should not 
matter as far as bleeding goes.  I am going to try the oil can method 
next with a longer piece of hose so I can watch what is happening with 
the reservoir.


On 7/4/2020 2:12 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..

At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better look at the issue  ;

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 11:45 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I
have done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way
up, still continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave
cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed
port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being
pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this several
times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans and
will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and
pump fluid in while watching the reservoir.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 

wrote:

When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should

have

1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.

If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be

letting

fluid into the piston to push the slave.

No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no

clutch...

Is there an adjuster on the rod?
Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it

possible

to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
done one.


On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
the top on its own if you pop it up a little

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing

stays

on better.

As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal

should

return to up position... is the return spring OK?


On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Something like this?

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned

hand

pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump

output

pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just

not

tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you

don't

want it under the hood].

With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake

fluid

from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...

Check

the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill

it.

When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you

have

displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and

remove

the

line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the

cap...

At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system

and

you

should have a clutch that works.



On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now

down

to

bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no

pedal

action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
reading something about certain brands of replacement master

cylinder

the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe

an

8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try

bleeding

it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?


___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Kaleb,
Port of last resort, try stacking some washers under the master cyl till
you get some free travel at the clutch pedal, not as a permanent fix, but
to get a clutch that works..

At the moment, I'm almost convinced the rod is too long... bring the car
closer to computer so I can have a better look at the issue  ;

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 11:45 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I
> have done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way
> up, still continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave
> cylinder. I pumped the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed
> port on the slave, reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being
> pushed in slightly, and still no pedal action. I went thru this several
> times and made no progress. I went and got one of those oil squirt cans and
> will get a longer piece of line so I can run it out from under the car and
> pump fluid in while watching the reservoir.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should
> have
> > 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> > pressure engagement.
> >
> > If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> > covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be
> letting
> > fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> >
> > No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no
> clutch...
> > Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> > Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it
> possible
> > to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> > done one.
> >
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
> >> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> >>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
> >> stays
> >>> on better.
> >>>
> >>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
> >> should
> >>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> >>>
>  On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  Something like this?
> 
>  https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> 
>  Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  wrote:
> >
> > My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
> >> hand
> > pump oil gun.
> > I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
> >> output
> > pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> > Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
> >> not
> > tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you
> don't
> > want it under the hood].
> >
> > With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
>  fluid
> > from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
> >> Check
> > the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill
> it.
> >
> > When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
> >> have
> > displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and
> remove
>  the
> > line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
>  cap...
> >
> > At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system
> and
>  you
> > should have a clutch that works.
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now
> down
> >> to
> >> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> >> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
> >> pedal
> >> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> >> reading something about certain brands of replacement master
> cylinder
> >> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> >> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
> >> an
> >> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try
> bleeding
> >> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I don’t feel any resistance what so ever when pushing the pedal. What I have 
done today is I unbolted the rod from the pedal so it is all the way up, still 
continuing with the line hooked from brake caliper to slave cylinder. I pumped 
the brake pedal for several minutes, closed the bleed port on the slave, 
reconnected the rod to the pedal (which requires being pushed in slightly, and 
still no pedal action. I went thru this several times and made no progress. I 
went and got one of those oil squirt cans and will get a longer piece of line 
so I can run it out from under the car and pump fluid in while watching the 
reservoir. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 1:30 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
> 1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
> pressure engagement.
> 
> If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
> covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
> fluid into the piston to push the slave.
> 
> No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
> Is there an adjuster on the rod?
> Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
> to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
> done one.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
>> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
>>> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
>> stays
>>> on better.
>>> 
>>> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
>> should
>>> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
>>> 
 On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 Something like this?
 
 https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
>> hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
>> output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
>> not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
 fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
>> Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
>> have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
 the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
 cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
 you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
>> to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
>> pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
>> an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
When the pedal is all the way up, is there any free play? You should have
1/4 to 1/2 inch of free travel at the pedal before you feel pump rod and
pressure engagement.

If you have no free play at the top, then the piston rubber will be
covering the end travel port in the master cyl, and you will not be letting
fluid into the piston to push the slave.

No free play at the top of pedal travel.. no pump... no pump, no clutch...
Is there an adjuster on the rod?
Most clutch setups have an adjustment in the rod length to make it possible
to dial in free play... I don't know how yours is, don't think I've ever
done one.

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 9:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to
> the top on its own if you pop it up a little
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> > I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing
> stays
> > on better.
> >
> > As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal
> should
> > return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> >
> >> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Something like this?
> >>
> >> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned
> hand
> >>> pump oil gun.
> >>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump
> output
> >>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> >>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just
> not
> >>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> >>> want it under the hood].
> >>>
> >>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> >> fluid
> >>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ...
> Check
> >>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> >>>
> >>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you
> have
> >>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> >> the
> >>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> >> cap...
> >>>
> >>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> >> you
> >>> should have a clutch that works.
> >>>
> >>>
>  On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>  mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>  I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down
> to
>  bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>  cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no
> pedal
>  action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>  reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>  the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>  order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe
> an
>  8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>  it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> 
> 
>  ___
>  http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
>  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
>  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> >>> ___
> >>> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>>
> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com

To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To 

Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
If you push pedal down all the way it stays down but will pop back up to the 
top on its own if you pop it up a little 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 11:30 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
> I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing stays
> on better.
> 
> As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal should
> return to up position... is the return spring OK?
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Something like this?
>> 
>> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
>>> pump oil gun.
>>> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
>>> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
>>> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
>>> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
>>> want it under the hood].
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
>> fluid
>>> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
>>> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
>>> 
>>> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
>>> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
>> the
>>> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
>> cap...
>>> 
>>> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
>> you
>>> should have a clutch that works.
>>> 
>>> 
 On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
 mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
 bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
 cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
 action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
 reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
 the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
 order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
 it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
 
 
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 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Throw in a complete set of "50 Shades of Gray" with the new renter... all
the "master / slave" stuff will be OK then...

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:44 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> As long as they're the same color it's not racist.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Yes, something like that oil can from Harbor Freight..
I like one with a rigid spout instead of flex because the poly tubing stays
on better.

As noted, check the length of the clutch master push rod. the pedal should
return to up position... is the return spring OK?

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020 at 7:18 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Something like this?
>
> https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 
> wrote:
> >
> > My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> > pump oil gun.
> > I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
> > pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> > Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
> > tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> > want it under the hood].
> >
> > With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake
> fluid
> > from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
> > the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> >
> > When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
> > displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove
> the
> > line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the
> cap...
> >
> > At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and
> you
> > should have a clutch that works.
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
> >> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> >> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> >> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> >> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
> >> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> >> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
> >> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
> >> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
As long as they're the same color it's not racist.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
In that case should I disconnect the rod from the pedal while bleeding? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 9:28 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, I think that is the problem.  The rod is too long.  Curt has been down 
> this path.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Jul 4, 2020 10:25:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :
> 
>> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line 
>> up with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>>> 
 With the clutch pedal up
>>> 
>>> ^^^ Key words there.
>>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>>> cylinder.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I did compare it next to the old one before installing it and on the old one 
the rod stuck out further. Of course it might not have been fully seated in the 
bore. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 8:31 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> That's right!  And make sure your rental listing doesn't say anything about 
> a M*r bedroom!
> 
> Kidding aside, I think you have touched on the problem: rod for the master 
> cylinder is too long.
> 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> 
> Jul 4, 2020 8:16:36 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes :
> 
>> Please refrain from using these racist designations
>> 
>> --FT
>> Sent from iPhone
>> 
 On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Oh crap you are right. I should complain to the parts sites too. What should we 
call them?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:16 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Please refrain from using these racist designations
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Yes, I think that is the problem.  The rod is too long.  Curt has been down 
this path.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 10:25:53 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes :

> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
> with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
If it’s like the clevis rod for a brake cylinder, there should be a small 
amount (1/8”) of play between the end of the rod and the piston in the clutch 
cylinder.

-D

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
> with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
The pedal stays up on its own with spring pressure. It only stays down if you 
push it. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 7:03 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
>> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> With the clutch pedal up
>>> 
>> 
>> ^^^ Key words there.
>> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
>> cylinder.
> 
> 
> If you just want to get it done this time, tie the clutch pedal to the
> steering wheel with a piece of string.
> 
> If you want to do it again, make a clutch pedal prop stick, drill a hole
> in it, and hang it on your tool board for next time.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I had to push the rod in about an 8th of an inch or less to get it to line up 
with the pedal mounting point. Would that make a difference?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 6:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> 
>> 
>> With the clutch pedal up
> 
> ^^^ Key words there.
> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
> cylinder.
> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Something like this?

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-flexible-spout-oil-can-1113.html

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2020, at 12:34 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
> 
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
> 
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the cap...
> 
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and you
> should have a clutch that works.
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
That's right!  And make sure your rental listing doesn't say anything about a 
M*r bedroom!

Kidding aside, I think you have touched on the problem: rod for the master 
cylinder is too long.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Jul 4, 2020 8:16:36 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes :

> Please refrain from using these racist designations
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
Please refrain from using these racist designations

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 3, 2020, at 11:35 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes



On Sat, July 4, 2020 7:43 am, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
>
>
>>
>> With the clutch pedal up
>>
>
> ^^^ Key words there.
> If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
> cylinder.


If you just want to get it done this time, tie the clutch pedal to the
steering wheel with a piece of string.

If you want to do it again, make a clutch pedal prop stick, drill a hole
in it, and hang it on your tool board for next time.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-04 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
On Sat, July 4, 2020 1:34 am, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

>
> With the clutch pedal up

^^^ Key words there.
If the pedal isn't up, you aren't pumping the air out through the master
cylinder.

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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-03 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Forgot to make note:
Be sure the oil pump gun is clean of oil, or use a new one [they are cheap
items at FLAPS.]

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 10:34 PM G Mann  wrote:

> My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
> pump oil gun.
> I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
> pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
> Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
> tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
> want it under the hood].
>
> With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake fluid
> from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
> the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.
>
> When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
> displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove the
> line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the cap...
>
> At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and you
> should have a clutch that works.
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
>> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
>> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
>> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
>> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
>> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
>> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
>> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
>> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Bleeding 240D clutch

2020-07-03 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
My favorite way to bleed clutch systems is to use an old fashioned hand
pump oil gun.
I fill the pump oiler with brake fluid, attach a hose to the pump output
pipe and to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder.
Then loosen the cap on the clutch master cylinder [leave it on, just not
tight, if you leave it off, you will squirt brake fluid where you don't
want it under the hood].

With the clutch pedal up, start pumping the hand oiler to pump brake fluid
from the bottom [slave cylinder is lower, air likes to move up] ... Check
the clutch master for fluid in the reservoir so you don't over fill it.

When the Master cylinder reservoir is 1/4 or more full of fluid, you have
displaced all the air in the system, so close the bleed port and remove the
line and pump... finish filling the master reservoir, and tighten the cap...

At that point, you should have no air trapped in the entire system and you
should have a clutch that works.


On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 8:35 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I got the slave cylinder and master cylinder swapped out and now down to
> bleeding it.  I have a line hooked up from RF caliper to the slave
> cylinder and have pumped the crap out the brake pedal and still no pedal
> action (pedal stays down, does not come back up).  I seem to recall
> reading something about certain brands of replacement master cylinder
> the rod does not come all the way back up.  I do know on this one in
> order to attach it to the brake pedal I had it push the rod in maybe an
> 8th of an inch or so.  I may unbolt it from the pedal and try bleeding
> it again. Otherwise, any other ideas for getting it bled?
>
>
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