thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.
car was running fine to me. last drive i came off freeway to oil light and i
ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road. turned out
im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some of im shaft
gear
If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
do better if you held the throttle open.
On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM,
To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much
experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for
you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has
experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine.
It's probably going to turn out to be something very basic. Maybe the spark
plug wires are mixed up a little bit? The chip should not matter just to
get the engine up and running the chip only fine tunes the timing and the
fuel for a little bit more power. You could do a compression check to be
i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess. i put what
i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back on the
car.
verified all timing marks. circle on the flywheel as well as having a
dipstick on #1. stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock
all new seals, etc. i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?
sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those before.
i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head. i believe chasis gti is 2.0
i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google
Since you must remove the intake manifold in order to access the cams, I
would start by using a spray bottle of water and spray where the intake
connects to the head, and the connection between the plenum and the lower
intake, depending on if you removed the intake as an assembly, or split the
Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is
all the way to the right and why it's running rough.
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?
On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004 wrote:
thanks but this is the
Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the
thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out. i
checked and marked things before i took the car apart. had this incident not
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.
i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple. all marks line up and
dipstick
i did use the same oil pump there was no debris? i cleaned it up and tested
and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay and built
pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?
this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me? a
tooth off
i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all apart,
after this incident.
this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole time
:).
i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to drive. i
was beating on itand it pulled
Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
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