... I do seem to recall that nixies generally have something
coated on the back of the digits to suppress the discharge there,
to concentrate it on the fronts.
NO-O-O-O !
Don't coat them cathodes at all, so the glow is even all around ! Use
a mesh anode, both front and back, so you can see
Trust me, I've used these sockets. It is a through-hole
component suitable for vectorboard.
Here's a technical drawing of one:
http://portal.fciconnect.com/Comergent//fci/drawing/54020.pdf
Plug your PLCC in the top of the socket, and insert the socket in the
a 0.1 pitch grid of holes.
I
See if this one works:
http://cid-f9db37b8211ce831.office.live.com/self.aspx/Snippets/Neg%5E_supply.gif
I initially used imageshack, but Google views it as a spam source, and
refuses to post my response.
Again, 2 10uf caps 2 1N914 (1N4148) diodes. Pump it with a 5KHz, or
higher, squarewave.
Why not use a 555? It is simple, it is reliable, ...
Here is an interview question I often ask: Which is more reliable? A
simpler system or a more complex system? You'd be surprised how many people
answer The more complex system.
-Adam
Maybe they like Rube Goldberg. What's the general
Here's a simple charge pump:
http://snipurl.com/23qbkk
only 4 parts. 2 10uf caps, and 2 1N4148 diodes. Output roughly -4V.
Oh, the input is a 5V squarewave, over 5KHz. It can be generated from
a spare uC output port bit.
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He needs to debug that thing. I mean literally. With a can of Raid !
Nice stepper relays ! The local surplus store had tons of those, back
in the 70's. They were old back then. That store has since moved to a
smaller location, and they long since sold all those relays.
I like looking at
On Feb 15, 7:20 pm, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
I totally agree with Gene. I was hoping someone else would
recognize the phenomenon. A little too much of stress on a
marginal biscuit frit seal, and it begins a slow return to
atmosphere ;)
From my limited experience with these PCB
On Feb 15, 7:20 pm, Jeff Thomas nixich...@gmail.com wrote:
I totally agree with Gene. I was hoping someone else would
recognize the phenomenon. A little too much of stress on a
marginal biscuit frit seal, and it begins a slow return to
atmosphere ;)
From my limited experience with these PCB
http://www.tubeclockdb.com/forum/Builders-Forum/1280-Nixietherm-IN-9-bargraph-based-thermomer.html
the idea of the IN-9 thermometer is really neat, and I
especially like the text engraved into the acrylic.
But sadly I do not like the base at all. Too flashy with all
these different leds,
From a quick look at the specs, of both tube types, I think you're
safe. If anything the nominal operating current on the IN-8 is higher
(2.5mA vs 2.0mA), so a least you won't prematurely age them. One
possible problem is that the anode current is too low, which may cause
the digits to only
Brain gone soft alert. If I recall Moses' circuits, I thing his power
supply is adjustable. Before swapping out resistors, just tweak the
supply voltage so that the current (per tube) is ~2.5mA. Duh !
I just went to Moses sight, and I believe that version of clock kit
has been discontinued !
Just a small correction. Bob's got the website, and is selling the
clocks. I'm the one who reported the 'bad link'. There's no suprise
that the computer I was on is infected with spyware (if only that). It
just hadn't occurred to me at the time I wrote it. That computer
doesn't hold any sensitive
You can move the anode mid pulls to the collector side of the MPSA92
anode drivers. That way it should not dim the tubes.
Yes, the mid-pull resistors draw extra current. Maybe another entry in
the 'disadvantage' column of multiplexed vs direct drive.
BTW, this scheme works on leakage problems
On Feb 8, 9:10 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:
This is so confusing! My DMM measures literally 10mV across its
internal 10megohm shunt from (off) anode to ground, which means that
the anode is truly OFF... My DMM reports infinite resistance from
cathode to ground when it's set to
Yep. Haven't run the calculations, but yes, an extra resistor has to
be added in the dp cathode leg.
On Jan 31, 8:29 pm, will ossumguyw...@gmail.com wrote:
Quick question-I noticed the current rating of the decimal points on
my IN-14 tubes was .3mA. Do I need to put a ~100K resistor on the
Laser cutting wood ? Does't that give burned edges ?
eric
Yes, it does. But as john said, you can sand it off later, or keep it
on, for effect, if you like.
On that note, lasers for cutting steel can also burn. It depends on
the 'purge gas' used. For Stainless Steel and aluminum, the gas is
The problem is, I'm pretty sure that most of those metal casings are
probably custom CNC work (which I can't afford), and most of the
antique stuff that might fit the bill (like old tube radios) looks
grungy and lacks the cool monolithic black color scheme I'm after. I'm
also not having any
No, No, No.
That's only if there was no MPSA92 in the circuit. Remember, the Base-
emitter junction of a transistor is a simple PN junction, ie a diode,
and will act like one. The forward voltage will be limited to about
0.6V to 0.7V for your common silicon transistor. (Wiki a silicon
diode) If
Thanks... But again, what kind of voltage should I set the supply to?
Many seemed to think that 170v was enough, but I guess not...
I'd go at least 180V, maybe even higher (190V-200V). For a couple of
reasons.
One, your muxing it. Nixies don't turn-ON instantaneously. There is
some turn-ON
This topic has been mention quite a few times in the past, back when
in the Yahoo group, though my searches there aren't showing a
satifying answer. In short the cathode driver (75468, 74141, 8T01 ...)
doesn't need to go all the way up to the supply voltage (180V
typically). It just has to go high
That Dave Jones guy (at the EEVBlog) is a hoot !
The original Pickit3 review is over a year old (Oct 2009). I suspect
Microchip 'fixed' the firmware on the Pickit3. Its the successor to
the Pickit-2, but distributors will sell you one if they have them.
Its not a pack of stale potato chips:
.. I was absolutely blown away by the level of documentation Commodore
included with the C64, including the pinout of that chip, how to interface
with it, everything I needed was right there in the User manual.
-Adam
Way back when, when the 1st IBM PCs roamed the earth, they had a full
set
.. I'm only 32, ... There must have been a real revolution in electronics
around that time frame.
-Adam
http://www.nixiebunny.com/malmbergcalc/calc.html
I'm 52, and I started tinkering with electronics ~1970. It was a very
transitional period (like it really never is, in electronics). The
You know, 'a mind is a terrible thing'.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEONIXIE-L/message/36540
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEONIXIE-L/message/40071
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEONIXIE-L/message/40644
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEONIXIE-L/message/36498
Well, Imageshack's old 386's, that
Lets try that again:
http://cid-f9db37b8211ce831.office.live.com/self.aspx/Snippets/VFD_MM53xx.gif
http://cid-f9db37b8211ce831.office.live.com/self.aspx/Snippets/LM1877_VFDs.gif
If I ever get close to Bill Gates, I'm going to kick him.
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Check it out here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgFVbnZrwYg There are four short
videos in all. From this we can perhaps safely conclude that my
strengths lie more with electronics design than videography
The wood work, however, is TOP NOTCH ! I almost swooned, like a
teenage girl !
--
i took it down to 1k at 5wa...@115 vac and every thing got warm to hot
but the funk would not blast away and is still there after many
hours
Measure and report back the voltage drop across that 1K resistor, so
we can get a current reading (I=Vr/1000). I have an NE31 that was in a
little ckt I
I just received my two tubes today ...
current from 20 mA up to 40 mA. At all current levels ...
stayed at about 70 VAC.
Well there goes the idea of it having an internal series resistor. If
it had, the voltage would have shifted. I think Charles is right, and
this tube is intended as a
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=160494313933
http://www.tubecollector.org/6324.htm
Its in the trochotron class of beam switching tubes:
http://www.tubecollector.org/6700.htm
http://www.tubecollector.org/vs10g.htm
But instead of being used for counting, its used for
Those are the ones. ... I'm hoping they're just large neon bulbs and that
only two pins are used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSizeitem=160498913376
That they are ! I actually had a pair of those in my hand, from the
same source. The eBay seller is brokering them for a guy, who
Here's another nixie clock on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=150511570592
This particular model shows up from time to time. It was one of the
few nixie clocks actually made for the consumer market, back when
nixies where still produced. There is no circuitry, other than
Dave Jones, of the EEV Blog, takes a trip to southern California, and
tours Apex Electronics:
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/10/30/eevblog-124-a-tour-of-apex-electronics/
To those outside the Los Angeles area, this is one of the few
electronics surplus places still in existence, in this area. Its
Just found it:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200533766038
It comes with a fancy wooden box. Definitely a high end item. Then
now.
I wonder if Longines actually sold it, or gave them away as gifts, but
only to their best watch dealers. A prize to the top performers,
awarded
... failed tubes/valves: outgassed? ... below atmospheric pressure,
... more accurate term would be ingassed
Do not expect logical terms ;-) Some time ago I actually found the
description for Nixie tubes are neon filled vacuum tubes on Ebay.
There are no words...
Jens
Hybrid cars, here
IN-9s with some fitting metal and ceramic caps.
As far as it seems, it makes some sense to think that what we buy as
completed part ...
http://tubes-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=37_71products_id=332
They seem to be selling the complete assemblies on eBay too:
Thanks John,
I would never have figured that out!
For anyone else reading this thread in the future here's a link that
discusses what John mentions above. I found it using the new knowledge
(pull down resistors) from John's post.
Well, multiplexing is something different to the approach of direct
drive. There are far more ignitions within a tube, and I do not know
if that is good. I believe people talking about their muxed clocks
running fine for years or decades (!), but say you overdrive a tube
that is specified for
Oh, and to clean up the noise a little more, is to narrow the
bandwidth. You can drop a small cap across the lower resistor of your
divider. In addition to that, if you have some left over RAM, you can
make a rolling queue of samples. Then take the average value of those
samples and display the
I found it was a mimeographed slip for indicating the pin connections of
a tube. The actual pin designations were hand written in pencil!
This is the first time I have ever seen one of these and I was
wondering if others have come across them as well.
I never found a hand written data sheet
What kind of voltage source do you have ?
A neon dekatron (6802, GC10B, OG-4, ...) needs at least 380V to
guarantee a good strike.
Also limit your current to 0.5mA (500uA). Use an anode resistor of at
least 470K, upto 1M. 680K 820K are most commonly used.
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On Sep 14, 5:00 am, John Rehwinkel jreh...@mac.com wrote:
Just be glad you're not in the market for old-style voltage regulator
tubes, some of which used all sorts of potent and exotic ionizers, including
radium!
Are we talking about common regulator tubes like a 0A2 or 0C3, or
those really
On Sep 12, 12:26 pm, figureloop cr...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Hi:
I have a bunch of NL840 that I will use someday. The ... datasheet ... [as]
types are high contrast.
I wonder how they look in comparison to the non-high contrast tubes?
Well, I managed to find a trio of NL845 at a fair
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