Oh doh, I didn't realize those pictures where already mentioned in the
thread
On Monday 13 May 2024 at 17:47:11 UTC-4 ZY wrote:
> I'm not sure what is going on in this site, I think the "seller" is just
> posting the tubes to show off instead of them being for sale, but th
I'm not sure what is going on in this site, I think the "seller" is just
posting the tubes to show off instead of them being for sale, but there is
a blue colored one pictured? The description seems to only mention green
with numbers, green with symbols, and orange, so maybe the blue is just
ble.
>>>2. It's unknown if there's a reset to zero (reset function) - if
>>>not, you'll have to add up to 99.
>>>
>>> You can make a 24-hour clock out of it. There's no "AM/PM" - unless you
>>> add it on the side or skip
Hello. I have this old and dusty module that contains 2x SP-431 panaplex
displays. They seem to still have gas in them, but I can only get the plus
sign and some keep-alive dots to turn on as I don't know the low-level
logic of the module.
I'm wondering if I should just desolder the displays
On Sunday, 16 April 2023 at 02:50:44 UTC-4 petehand wrote:
I use H bridges for my VFD designs. The VFD heaters are designed to run as
slow as 50Hz, as the thermal inertia is more than sufficient for a steady
display. There will be no beating. I generally run them at about 200- 500
Hz. The bias
UTC-4 ZY wrote:
> I wanted to try to avoid having a AC line in my design if possible. I did
> have to break out my old ECE notes, and I designed a different filter.
> Turns out my original RC filter requires a much larger resistor to limit
> the primary side current, but that
be timed correctly to the AC line and the
> offset has to be different for making these measurements than for regular
> operation. It was probably overkill, but I enjoyed the design challenge.
>
> On Friday, April 14, 2023 at 2:25:57 PM UTC-7 ZY wrote:
>
>> Hello. I'm working on a d
Hello. I'm working on a driver for my VFD filaments. Say I need a Vfilament
of 1.6V, and a current of 40mA, such as with a small VFD.
So far I have a square wave driver set up, basically for my two filament
pins I can alternate the two pins between 1.6 and 0 with some H bridge at
maybe 100KHz.
Don't numitrons have pretty high shoot-through current? I'd expect 100mA of
current going into the IC pins at each off-on transition. Which would
probably be fine since it's only for a few milliseconds and as you
mentioned it's been fine for years, but it's technically out of spec.
On Monday,
I've been buying from ebay/aliexpress/etsy with no issues, I probably have
500+ transactions over the past 10 years. But as with all internet orders,
I do have the occasional missing item or broken item sent to me. I've
gotten my money back every single time, ebay/aliexpress would 99% of the
Do the colors match between the tubes and the spiral tubes? I remember last
I tried the colors were kind of off, but I forget which spiral I used and
perhaps my voltages weren't optimal.
On Tuesday, 8 February 2022 at 18:46:23 UTC-5 M1 wrote:
> Understood. Agreed. I need to relax too.
>
>
I also use OSHPark but only because for small pcbs they have they are the
cheapest ENIG option. I know it probably makes no difference, but the after
dark PCBs with ENIG do look nice.
If another supplier can do the same look but cheaper I'd have no issue with
swapping, since for anything
ith other resistor values for 12V and it works
> perfectly all the time.
>
>
> ZY schrieb am Montag, 8. November 2021 um 01:59:34 UTC+1:
>
>> What is your method of input protection?
>>
>> On Sunday, 7 November 2021 at 17:14:52 UTC-5 newxito wrote:
>>
&g
What is your method of input protection?
On Sunday, 7 November 2021 at 17:14:52 UTC-5 newxito wrote:
> Today I built the clock. There is an error on the board, the DataIn pin of
> the LED array is connected to the wrong side of the level shifter, but it
> seems to work fine with 3.3V. I also
If you're going with SMD components, you can also try using a SMD crystal
to simplify the build process some more. I used this one for example
(although currently out of stock, but there are probably similar ones)
direct-drive to maximize lifetime. Electronic parts are inexpensive and
> readily available; nixie tubes are expensive and the finite supply is
> rapidly shrinking.
>
> On Thursday, July 15, 2021 at 1:33:49 AM UTC-7 ZY wrote:
>
>>
>> Ooops, sorry Gregebert, I'm not experie
Ooops, sorry Gregebert, I'm not experienced with google groups and I didn't
know the difference between reply to group vs. reply to author.
I'm going to repeat my question so it's group visible:
Basically I was wondering for multiplexed vs direct drive, if given the
same voltage and current
t talk to circa 2010 Nick
>>>> and say "hey, you may want to load up on some of those boxes of new IN-14
>>>> at $100."
>>>>
>>>> :)
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 10:54 AM Bill Notfaded
>>>> wrote:
>>&
re pieces. Part of thing I love
> about my Mod-Six and my Black Emerald are the way the hardware/pcb/case all
> are on display in such a professional hand crafted kind of way!
>
> Bill
>
> On Tuesday, June 29, 2021 at 11:56:25 PM UTC-7 ZY wrote:
>
>> Thanks! The case is
I bought maybe 30-40 IN-14s a while back when they were going for a used
price of $2-2.5 per tube after including shipping.
I finally used up most of my stash building clocks for family and friends
and I wanted to get a few more, but wow the prices have ballooned. The
exact ebay listing I
Thanks! The case is 3D printed, I used some sparkly grey filament from
proto-pasta. I would love to CNC an aluminum one but the cost would be a
bit out of my league.
On Wednesday, 30 June 2021 at 02:30:32 UTC-4 newxito wrote:
> Well done! I like the case and the nice knob on the back. Is the
rding to
>> https://frank.pocnet.net/brand.html WF is listed as "RFT Werk für
>> Fernsehelektronik". It seems to be a subsidiary or branch of RFT of some
>> kind.
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 2:55:35 AM UTC-5 ZY wrote:
>>
>>> Ap
I saw that the seller is also selling newly manufactured nixies with part
number MX-57X. Perhaps these two are not really "vintage" nixies but are
just prototype verrsions of the MX-57X tubes? They look very similar in
design.
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power supply are you using? I seem to collect power supply design
> almost as much as Nixie tubes.
>
> On Wednesday, July 15, 2020 at 11:20:23 PM UTC-4, ZY wrote:
>>
>> For my VFD filaments, I've settled on using a power supply module with a
>> configurable soft-start ti
For my VFD filaments, I've settled on using a power supply module with a
configurable soft-start time. I've set it to something huge, like 10
seconds, to try to limit the inrush current.
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You can also have decontrons do the counting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bl5kSr8C3Q
I'm guessing some more parts can be replaced with tubes by replacing the
rectifier with a tube rectifier.
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You can also have decatrons do the counting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bl5kSr8C3Q
I'm guessing some more parts can be replaced with tubes by replacing the
rectifier with a tube rectifier.
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Hello. I live near the coast and my air humidity is pretty high, usually
it's around or above 50% on warmer days and maybe even higher if it rains.
While I store my nixies in containers with a few silica packets, the nixies
that are built into clocks are exposed to the humidity.
I'm wondering
I took a look at the LM9022 datasheet and it's drive method seems similar
to my H-bridge + oscillator. I've built and tested it but haven't ran it
long term with my ILC1-1/7s. I'm still looking for anything to improve on
before I finalize the driver for my clock.
[image: 3.PNG]
--
You
Would you be able to elaborate on how the transformer prevents the inrush
current? I'm a bit new to using transformers for anything. Also do you have
a part number suggestion?
Currently for my ILC1-1/7 VFD project, I'm using a SiP2100 hbridge to
generate my filament voltages that inverts
Do you have a suggestion on an A/D IC? Or are you using one from the uC
directly? I'm looking to sprinkle some A/D everywhere for my nixie and non
nixie projects just for fun.
On Tuesday, 10 September 2019 15:51:18 UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>
> My current clock went a bit overboard with
What is your plan for powering this display? I ask because I also have 4
modules that I'm trying to get to work.
As far as I can see, at 13mA per tube, lighting all 23 digits requires
0.3A, which at 175V is like 52 watts? And that's just one of the digits.
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Thanks! I did eventually also stumble on those two but I wanted to be sure
since I couldn't find their datasheets. I did snatch a few 513As so
hopefully it will work out.
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Hello,
I'm trying to spell out a word with non-segmented nixie tubes, and it seems
the Dolam LL-555 to 558 series are my best bet for something available on
ebay.
However I notice that the tubes do not include I and O, which I assume
would be done by a numerical 0-9 tube.
I need a suggestion
Almost all my projects are now SMT, mainly because I feel it saves so much
time and money (smaller board size) compared to through hole components.
It's way faster for me to place the parts than to manually solder each
through hole component.
I currently use mostly 0603 parts and I recommend
I just managed to finish my first complete nixie clock. I'm not too good
with woodworking/metalworking so I 3D printed a case instead:
front: http://i.imgur.com/tBOOyoU.jpg
back: http://i.imgur.com/dEGT2B4.jpg
bottom: http://i.imgur.com/AdROsfL.jpg
Insides during test (no standoffs and some
Thanks everyone for the help! I can start some tests with this info. I'm
going to order a couple 1.25mm pitch FPC connectors from digikey first so I
can connect to the IC without soldering to it.
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I got my hands on a few 230IK1 chips and I want to use them for a project
as I think they look a bit cooler than the usual K155ID1.
However, I don't know any Russian so reading the datasheets are a bit
difficult. So far, I found this website:
http://www.155la3.ru/k230.htm
Halfway down the
I just want to add that for the low current scenario, the voltage should be
consumed by the nixie. The voltage across the LM317 will continue to drop
with reducing current, down to about 0.75V at 0.2mA under a test I did.
Only in overcurrent would there be an issue, as the voltage across it
I'd like some opinions on using something like a LM317 inline on the high
side, as in the image attached. I've tested it and it seems to work
although maybe there is a flaw that I'm not seeing somewhere.
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ation on
> them?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jonathan
>
> On 3/11/2017 8:45 PM, ZY wrote:
>
> Not sure if anyone would be interested as they're not neon, but here's a
> portion of my LED display collection if anyone is into that too:
>
> https://imgur.com/a/AVp0y
> --
Not sure if anyone would be interested as they're not neon, but here's a
portion of my LED display collection if anyone is into that too:
https://imgur.com/a/AVp0y
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Not my lot (I wish!) but some of you might be interested:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-NIXIE-TUBE-CD12-RODAN-OKAYA-Socket-NOS-ultre-rare-very-large-Nixie-tube/112292764752
Seems very expensive though.
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The GSP really sucks. I also ordered from Canada while living there for a
short while and something for ~$5 came with $20 shipping and other fees.
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What is your method of current regulation? For example, do you use a PnP
transistor or the lm317 method, or something else? I have room to add
something for my anodes, but I'm unsure if using a transistor would be
accurate.
On Sunday, 14 August 2016 03:02:17 UTC-4, gregebert wrote:
>
> I use
Hello. I'm wondering if people typically use some sort of constant current
regulator for their nixie clocks? Such as a simple LM317 current regulator
at the anode instead of a current limiting resistor? I just started
designing a circuit for some IN-18 tubes and since they were so expensive
Ah I see. That has me wondering what a nixie tube made completely out of
uranium glass would look like.
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What does the Kr85 stand for? I see it on one of my displays too.
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To post
Just an update. A 100pF cap over the resistor has indeed fixed the issue.
> Noise on the FB pin is a common problem with poor layout, hence asking for
> a look at it.
>
I thought my layout would be ok. Maybe I'll remove the ground-plane keepout
under the inductor next time as I'm using a
Earnshaw's theorem actually states that it's impossible to use static
magnets to levitate no matter how you create the field without some
supporting surface touching the levitating surface at some position (like a
pole) which of course doesn't count as levitation. You have to use
active
Also here is an attachment showing what the entire assembly looks like at
the moment. The two boards on the back are for power and control, and are
not finished yet as I'm still testing/assembling.
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Oops I meant 0.1nF for the capacitor across the 1.5M resistor, although I'm
assuming 0.1uF would still be ok?
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It seems like that is the issue. I can't find a suitable capacitor at the
moment as the 0.1uF ones I have extra right now are rated at 50V, but using
my multimeter to probe across the 1.5M cap causes enough parasitic
capacitance to allow for a stable voltage output. I will order a similarly
Hello. I'm following desmith's guide to building a power supply, and I'm
using a circuit somewhat similar to his except I've selected some different
components due to some size constraints. The main difference is my mosfet
is this guy:
You should also try looking at I-209 and I-195 displays. They look to be
much larger than the IEL ones. You can see a few as the first few images of
this google search:
That's a pretty finicky chip, if misused.
>
> What's the rating on the coil ? Can you give us its part number. I did not
> see a current rating. The coil, is the most important part, of a boost
> supply.
>
> On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 at 12:35:20 PM UTC-7, ZY wrote:
>>
&
Thanks for the replies. I'm currently building one using the guidelines
from the website, but I'm still curious why the Vo equation in theory is
way off compared to the real life version?
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Hello. I'm trying to build a boost converter for my project to boost 12V to
150-220V. I'm looking at various converter circuits online, like this one:
http://desmith.net/NMdS/Electronics/NixiePSU.html, and they use inductors
on the order of 100uH to 150uH, and use drivers that switch at
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