message
From: Kiran Otter kiran...@gmail.com javascript:
Date: 05/14/2015 8:30 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Well after MUCH trials and tribulations.. I gave up. :) I lack
Since I'm picky stubborn, I do my own designs. That way I can only blame
myself. Snarkiness aside, making a production-worthy design is not trivial
and I'm sure that the few kits that are available are designed by engineers
who have day-jobs as well. On top of that, kits need to be affordable,
!
Jeff Walton
-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dan Hollis
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:50 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
So
Just an update for those morbidly curious...
I replaced several parts per Nick's suggestion.. (in fact Nick was nice
enough to send me the parts!) but in the end, the MOSFET is still getting
super hot.
So today I'm sending the board to Nick for him to poke at it.
Thanks Nick!
Kiran
--
You
On 15-04-12 10:53 AM, Kiran Otter wrote:
I can't find the 2SA1266 transistor. Tried a cross-ref site and it gave
me 213 choices. x.x
http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/2SA1266pr.shtml
It is a Japanese type. but their are probably hundreds that would work...
use the specs in the link above
Thanks Niek.. I'll try replacing those parts you mentioned. The IN-18s are
socketed.. I wouldn't expect to have much trouble moving them to a new
clock. I'd hope not, anyway.
MichaelB.. I replaced C6 first, when I was having a problem with all of the
tubes lighting up all sorts of numbers
Kiran, PM me...I have all the parts you need and can send them to you for the
price of postage only.
Cheers,
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 12, 2015, at 07:53, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote:
Ok, I need some help to know which parts to order..
The inductor; I know it's
Ok, I need some help to know which parts to order..
The inductor; I know it's 'inductance' is 270uh.. but what current rating?
There's about 330 choices. :D I wish I could tell these things by looking
at the schematic.
Is
If you want to be sure that the high voltage power part is as good as it
can be, then I would replace the most relevant parts, if you haven't
already replaced them recently:
- L1 (inductor)
- M1 (mosfet)
- Q4 (transistor)
- D2 (diode)
- C6 (capacitor, but you already replaced it, so I wouldn't
A faulty inductor with some windings short cuted will make switching
transistor go hot.
Kiran Otter skrev den 2015-04-10 17:12:
Well.. I replaced the voltage regulator with JT's part, it appears to
be working perfectly.. a solid 5V right on the mark. I also replaced C1.
The ghosting numbers
Niek, I don't see any problem with Q4, and it's been in there for 7+
years. If the recommendation is to replace it, I can do that.. the bummer
is every time I need a cap or some other part, it costs a dollar plus
another $6 to ship it.
Sture, let me know if there's a way to test the inductor
Nice that the SMPS made it run cooler. I didn't expect it to fix the
ghosting issue - that's probably a timing issue in the software, as I
explained earlier. Would have been very strange if that had been related to
the 7805.
As for the hot mosfet: can you check Q4? It's the small transistor
solution when there is a small power budget.
Jeff Walton
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kiran Otter
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2015 1:52 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock
I should have said if I see oscillation from the 7805 that Jeff mentioned,
pointing to a bad C1. I may just replace it regardless.
Kiran
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Hi folks, glad to find this group!
I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the
Well I finally got my scope out and gave my self a sort of crash course on
how to use it. It's a 1975 Tektronix 475. Last calibrated in 1986. :D I
found it on eBay about 10 years ago and it was cheap enough, I figured I
could at least play with it and learn something. Bought probes and all,
Easiest way to hunt for oscillations is to use AC coupling, and start with
100mV/division, and 100usec/division. The exact frequency of the
oscillation isn't important; what you want is less than 100mV peak-to-peak
of noise. If you see 60Hz noise, either your 'large' electrolytic cap
(usually
Just to re-iterate - solder a small 100nF capacitor between pins 1 2, and
another between pins 3 2, preferably on the underside of the PCB directly
to the 7805's solder pads.
The symptoms you are seeing are almost certainly nothing to do with the
heatsinks etc - I'd put good money on this
Nick,
Would replacing the 7805 with a 'non-isolated dc/dc converter' like Jon
suggested solve the problem too? I ask because I was going to try the
Traco TSR 1-2450, or the Murata part (though I'm not sure it will fit.) I
ordered both.
I'll get my scope out today and see what I can see.
The one of suppression capacitors in the 7805's is a very interesting topic
in itself... that values of input and output capacitors have been changing
in the datasheets for years.
The LM340T series of regulators (of which the 7805 is a direct descendant)
used to need one 10uF tantalum capacitor
I suspect they will solve the problem but at considerably more cost than two
small capacitors which should have been there in the first place. ...
Nick
On 30 March 2015 12:47:54 GMT+01:00, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote:
Nick,
Would replacing the 7805 with a 'non-isolated dc/dc
If you send me your shipping address, I'll send you one of the 7805 drop
in's that I built. I used it on my TI App note clock and it was so
efficient (95%) that I even hooked the HVPS to the 5V rail.
It is the same foot print as the 7805 and uses a 4-40 socket head cap screw
for mounting. It
I too was going to suggest the switchmode replacement approach.
Your heat will go away from the regulator, completely.
You can get one shipped to you for less than $9.
Click here:
Traco regulator
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Traco-module-TSR-1-2465-TSR1-2465/1942822301.html
--
You
Have you thought about replacing the 7805 with a switch mode regulator?
More expensive than cheap-as-chips 7805 but wyyy more efficient. That
means they will run cold and you shouldn't need to worry about the ambient
temperature in your case. Two to look at, both of which are pin-compatible
Something I want to note about how I used a heatsink; I epoxied it to the
tops of the cases of M1 U1; traditionally you'd bolt it to the back of
the component but at the time I couldn't figure out a better way, and I had
heatsink epoxy, so I just plastered it to the tops of the two components.
Of Kiran Otter
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 12:56 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Something I want to note about how I used a heatsink; I epoxied it to the tops
of the cases of M1 U1; traditionally you'd bolt
Just looked at the schematic. There are no suppression capacitors on the 7805.
That is, IMHO, a major flaw.
I would, as soon as possible, add those two 100n caps on the legs of the 7805.
Nick
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To
will accelerate the dryout of any nearby
electrolytic caps.
Jeff Walton
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kiran Otter
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 12:56 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock
I would try replacing C6 again with a known good part and leave the clock
out of it's case without the heat sink and see how it does. This is the
exact syndrome that mine exhibited twice on the one clock until I opened up
the case and dropped the voltage and replaced C6. Then add a heat sink
Well folks, I think I'm going to leave it like this for a while. I've
mounted a little 20mm fan to blow across U1 M1. The extraneous digits
lighting isn't significant enough to be an issue; I just assumed it had to
do with the over-heating.
I appreciate everyone's input. We'll see how long
Is it still exhibiting the same symptoms as in your video without the
heatsink?
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 1:12:39 PM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:
Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x
U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB
Niek,
I do have a scope, however I'd be lying if I said I knew how to use it. I
bought it used with the intention of learning how to use it, and it's sat
since then. You could probably say I know enough about electronics to be
dangerous. I know what resisters and capacitors and transistors
Glad removing the heatsink seemed to solved the issue.
It's interesting it has this behavior next to the blanked out tube: does it
have the same behavior when using 24 hour mode? (if it has such a mode, or
any other mode where it doesn't blank out any tubes). Blanking out a single
tube (of a
Sorry, I think I was getting U1 and M1 mixed up in my earlier post. x.x
U1 is ok, it's M1 that's getting quite hot. 109F now from the PCB side.
It's hard to hit it on top because of the other PCB on top. But with the
heatsink gone nothing is anywhere near as hot as it was before. Really
Now after running it a short while, U1 is about 98F and M1 is 112F.
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Hmm, well, to me it seems a firmware issue with the timing: if it were the
drivers, then it would be random and probably more constant, not showing
the seconds. The reason you see the seconds in the 2nd to left tube is that
tube is driven by the same driver chip as the seconds (there are only
the coupling effect. [And
the rail is effectively grounded.]
John K/
- Original Message -
From: Kiran Otter
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 8:53 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
Niek,
Yes, it's showing
] On
Behalf Of Kiran Otter
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:51 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will use
my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another
Yes, it is. I took that video after removing it. I've also noticed the
same effect in the minute digit. It also follows the seconds.
I realize it's pretty faint, but this is the best it's been with the two
driver chips I have in there now. With another pair, the left most tube
constantly
Niek,
Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or number of
hours on the tubes, I can see whatever is in the most-right tube, faintly
in the next to left tube. And I swear I can see the 6 in the
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
I've had a Tubehobby clock for several years, the NCV2.1 with the IN-18
tubes. In the past Jonas has helped, and I even shipped him the main board
for him to repair, but he hasn't responded to my last request for help, so
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote:
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were
partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was
that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so
Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue?
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter kiranot...@gmail.com wrote:
Niek,
Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
though not as strongly. If I force it to
@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2015 2:44 AM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
The voltage from the wallwart (12V, 1A) is 11.8V under load. The high
voltage to the tubes is 172.8V. It's very difficult to get it right at 170V
when adjusting R26
I have had this same issue with 3 of Jonas' clocks and each time the fix
has been a combination of replacing C6 and a dropping the voltage a bit to
keep the temperature down on that VREG. I also ended up changing the design
of my enclosed cases to allow better cooling internally and this seemed
I was just having a look at the manual for the clock, and was thinking that
the adjustable trimpot at R26 should also be checked. Being it is
adjustable, could it be that it may have failed somehow? Just a thought.
Ron
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Hi
MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could
I have a bad cap? I had a hell of a time finding just one; got it shipped
free from RS for for like a dollar.
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 12:46:24 PM UTC-4, MichaelB wrote:
I have had this same issue with 3 of
By the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that will
use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.
Kiran
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I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does
have a few that use the big Nixies like you have. All the kits I have used
are his QTC line, and they seem to have all the features that your
Do you have a scope? Is the output of the 7805 still a clean 5V? How about
the output of the HV regulator? Can you measure the current going into the
clock? (with your multimeter)
I'd be a bit suprised if the cause is the driver chips, because after
replacing them it didn't seem to improve a
Around 165, can’t remember exactly, but enough so as not to sacrifice tube
brightness and yes you could have a bad cap.
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:49:05 AM UTC-7, Kiran Otter wrote:
MichaelB, what did you lower the voltage to? And I did replace C6. Could
I have a bad cap? I had
Very nice kits and Pete is very quick to help
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 10:57:28 AM UTC-7, blkadder wrote:
I have been using the kits from PV Electronics (www.pvelectronics.co.uk).
He has kits that will use pretty much every tube manufactured. He does
have a few that use the big
@googlegroups.com /divdivCc: /divdivSubject:
[neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating /divdiv
/divBy the way, I'm open to recommendations on a different clock kit that
will use my IN-18s. I haven't had much luck finding another make.
Kiran
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You received this message because you
You can of course get a new kit, but it will be much more fun and give you
a better sense of accomplishment if you fix this one - and since I don't
see anything inherently wrong with the design, you should be able to fix it
fairly easily. Try lowering that input voltage to 9V, and could you
One more thing: can you try completely removing that heatsink, and see if
it makes any difference? I designed my own nixie clock with a 7805 (also
3x2 multiplex), and it hardly gets warm at all (you can easily touch it),
without any heatsink. I'd just like to exclude this heatsink as a cause,
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