Shoot, I was hoping that wouldn't be necessary...
Well after doing the compression test and checking the spark a new problem has
developed.
When I tried to start after those tests the bike began to backfire.
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So the backfiring is not an issue. I'm an idiot.
Checked the ignition timing on cyl1 was spot on.
Decided to check the regularity of ignition on the other cylinders. 2 and 3
appear to have intermittent drops in spark.
Going to swap the coils to see if it switches.
That's a pricey part...
--
check with jacks cycle and salvage in sanford fl, i got a set of coils for
my goldwing for $50... they will ship or i can pick up localy and ship for
you
On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 2:41 PM, E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com wrote:
So the backfiring is not an issue. I'm an idiot.
Checked the ignition
I'll check them out. Thanks
After I switched the coils: running problem persists but the timing light
showed regular firing for all 4 cylinders. I guess I'll switch back and retest.
Decided just for the hell of it to check compression again. All cylinders are
pushing 120psi which as far as I
Well if this last hot reading of the compression is right I'll just clean the
carbs again when I've got the rest pulled off I guess.
Wanted to retest the compression since 120 is a little low and, even though it
should run, I was suspicious. Drove for 10 min then came back and threw the
tester
It is sounding like Carb sync. Little screw between carbs that has to be
within 1/8 turn of exact. That gives hesitation big time. I waited a long
time before correcting mine but once done it was excellent. Be sure no boot
leaks first though.
On Jul 27, 2012 8:57 PM, E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com
Well that would be way better than cracking it open. Any links to a decent
cheap 4 cyl vacuum gauge? Can't find one anywhere local...
Or if I shop it, what would be a fair price range for getting it done?
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Nighthawk
I live in the 4th largest city in the US and couldn't find a sync tool
locally. 8 had to order one off of amazon. Plenty of videos on YouTube
about how to use them.
-Kyle
On Jul 27, 2012 9:39 PM, E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com wrote:
Well that would be way better than cracking it open. Any links to a
Just made a post about this, but here is a model better suited to our bikes (as
opposed to cars)
http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/edelbrock-uni-syn-4027/?utm_source=googlepeplautm_medium=adwordutm_content=plagclid=CMTNrqe1u7ECFUS4KgodM3QAFA
On Jul 27, 2012, at 22:00 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:
I live
@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No power/ stalling in low rpm. Any ideas?
I'll check them out. Thanks
After I switched the coils: running problem persists but the timing light
showed regular firing for all 4 cylinders. I guess I'll switch back
Sounds like coils to me
---Original Message---
From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: 7/25/2012 7:26 pm
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No power/ stalling in low rpm. Any ideas?
Ran some through. Let it sit. Then ran the rest of a can of sea
Got everything thing in the carbs cleaned. Reassembled. Everything slides
smooth.
Put them back in and the low rpm hesitation and cutting out is still a problem.
No improvement.
Doing a compression test now.
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Compression is good.
Spark is there.
Checking the timing
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Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No power/ stalling in low rpm. Any ideas?
Got everything thing in the carbs cleaned. Reassembled. Everything slides
smooth.
Put them back in and the low rpm hesitation and cutting out is still a problem
Carbs, carbs...it's almost always carbs, especially if it's been
sitting up any time at all.
Clean 'em, then clean 'em again before you start messin' around with
any other fix. Gas turns to syrup. Syrup clogs passageways. No gas
flows.
Same with rvs, outboard motors, lawn motors, chain saws,
When doing the seafoam treatment, should I just add it to the gas, or should I
go directly into the hose? I've read differing things...
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For Maintenance with Seafoam I believe the recommended dosage is one
ounce per gallon mixed directly in with the gas.
From personal experience, I suggest putting a fresh tank of
gas into the bike, then the correct number of ounces per gallon and
going for a long ride to burn as much of
If you are fighting a severe clog, a heavy dose and a good hard run can do
wonders. Like Joey, I've run a whole can in a fresh tank and then flogged
the crap out of it to clear up issues. An assisted Italian Tune, if you
will.
Kurt
On Jul 25, 2012 3:51 PM, Joey Kelley sandp...@gmail.com wrote:
Fill the tank add Seafoam to the tank. That is what I did.
Thank you,
Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 25, 2012, at 2:47 PM, E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com wrote:
When doing the seafoam treatment, should I just add it to the gas, or should
I go directly into the hose? I've read
What you have mentioned about Seafoam settling, I have not experienced. I ride
every day I can. If I remember correctly, I ran a tank of regular gas between
treatment. I can't remember if I did 1/2 a can per tank or the whole can. Like
I said, my bike runs so good you'd think it was twins!
The other think to consider, is that when your riding the tank is sloshing, so
it keeps the Seafoam in suspension. I really don't think it settles.
Thank you,
Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 25, 2012, at 4:06 PM, Kurt Nolte vturbine.po...@gmail.com wrote:
If you are fighting a
Sent via BlackBerry by ATT
-Original Message-
From: E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com
Sender: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 12:47:09
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: No power/ stalling
Lovers] Re: No power/ stalling in low rpm. Any ideas?
When doing the seafoam treatment, should I just add it to the gas, or should I
go directly into the hose? I've read differing things...
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Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers
Ran some through. Let it sit. Then ran the rest of a can of sea foam for 60
miles.
No improvement.
The problem gets worse as the engine gets up to temperature
The engine hesitates and wants to die below 3 to 3.5k rpm.
Holding the throttle steady, it will slowly and roughly pick up. Then when
Pulled the carbs.
Cleaned all the jets.
The choke was almost locked shut because of that cleaner my brother used. It
had crystals in it which jammed the bystarter valve... Took half a can of
cleaner through there to even be able to pull them from their seats. Crystal
buildup on the springs, in
YES. YES YES YES.
Sincerely,
The group.
-Kurt
On Jul 25, 2012 11:06 PM, E.T. et.hal...@gmail.com wrote:
Pulled the carbs.
Cleaned all the jets.
The choke was almost locked shut because of that cleaner my brother used.
It had crystals in it which jammed the bystarter valve... Took half a
What you've done is okay for a mild case of VOC (volatile organic
compound) evaporation. That's when gas is just beginning to turn to
syrup or varnish. That's when it's most responsive to the
dissolving effects of Seafoam (lighter fluid, alcohol and light
machine oil) or the like.
However, when
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