I may be mistaken but I get the impression Drew and Eric are only referring
to the sometimes extra brazed on canti brake cable hanger/cable stop but
not the bridge itself, right?
On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 1:39:32 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> And people who use V brakes don't
I was fine with no foot retention and flat pedals when trying fixed early on...
until I hit a steep hill with my “too low for the road 63” gear” and decided to
try and see how well I could just “coast”... relax the legs and spin like the
wind. It wasn’t long before I couldn’t keep up and feet
Interestingly, I also started out fixed with about a 63" high gear
(40x17/19 dingle with 170 cranks and 700x32) and also quickly ramped up to
70" by increasing chainrings to 42t, then 44t. I'm in central NJ and 63"
feels great in my local park (expansive network of flattish trails right
I should amend my prior comments to add that my cloth tape preference is
not due to any increased cushion vs. leather but a textural and
convenience preference (cloth is just more forgiving and easier to wrap)...
I've often doubled up the cotton cloth tape to increase cushion and
thickness but
As someone who sweats heavily and has come to prefer cloth bar tape I don’t
think perforated leather would be any more of an issue than highly absorbent
cotton cloth and I’ve never had an issue although my mileage has been limited
and bar wraps short lived anyway with lots of recent bar
Hi Ash,
Sent a PM the other day but I'm still figuring out this whole google group
thing and not completely sure whether it even went through. Was sent on
mobile but while in "desktop" mode.
In case you didn't get it:
I've been curious to try a Jones bar and I have a 55cm Cromo Bosco I'd
Tall, lugged, roadish frame with the filleted and curved bubbe tube? Consider
me diverted...
I’ll admit I was even more excited thinking for a moment that this could be a
one off/small batch tall mans Senor Frank Jones but the down tube cable stops
said otherwise. You still have my
Please ignore my QR vs Bolt-on question... Jeremy already answered that
while I was still typing it.
Thanks
On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 11:05:47 AM UTC-5, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
> Was the wheelset QR or bolt on? I discovered Rivendell after the
> Quickbeams had been long go
As long as you respace each side of the hub and extra 5mm equally to
achieve the wider over lock nut your chainline wouldn't change at the hub
but as EasyRider mentioned you may have different chainring clearances with
the wider spaced 130 frame which may or may not require a longer bb spindle
I have a couple pairs of GKs and really like them... but I have a long and
narrow(15/16size) foot so maybe that has something to do with it. I also find
myself often sliding foot forward like Deacon Patrick already suggested and
this places the narrow middle part of the pedal more in line with
It’s kinda funny that when I first discovered Riv it was while I was in the
process of “Rivifying” my old rigid MTB, which was my only bike at the time and
no longer comfortable, but before I even knew what it really meant to Rivify an
old frame. At the time they were clearing out the
Lum,
Your experience with DT is similar to how I happened upon the pleasures of ss
riding.
Combine a tall frame + low DT levers + laziness + an old 12 spd that
effectively acted as a 5 speed: 40/52 double crank where I just stayed in the
40 + a worn 6th cog in the back.
I ended up just
That really is spectacular! Very glad the fixed conversion seems to be working
out for you. I rode fixed exclusively for a month or two last winter and found
it greatly rewarding. Just as you stated, no free miles but no wasted miles
either. My riding is pretty much limited to short leisure
Thanks all!
Kai, not to worry... no plans to part with ChocoClem. Although I am interested
in seeing how the chocomoose actually feels on the big 27” Schwinn with 62.5
top tube but I’ve been resisting messing with it for now.
Patrick/Wayne , sounds like a great plan and fortunately I’m not
Hi RBWOBunch,
I’m a newer member here… I've added a few comments to some recent threads
but otherwise had only been a casual observer for the past few years after
first discovering the group while doing some google searches (sorry, I
still haven’t completely accepted “google” as a verb)
I have not yet tried the supple life with Compass tire offerings but do have a
set of 700c Sun CR18s (Harris Cyclery stock freewheel wheel set) and did find
the fit to be much tighter with some Ruffy Tuffys vs a set of Mavic CXP 22 when
moving the same tires between wheels on my and my wife’s
Joe,
the dinglespeed Cheviot sounds terrific and happy to see you are
reconsidering trying singlespeeding even with a big hill to climb. I have
to keep fighting the urge to give this kind treatment to my Clem H since
it's currently my only derailer equipped multispeed bike and I honestly
I managed to successfully convert an old Atom 6sp 14-28 freewheel to a
15/17 dingle freewheel on an old 12 speed frame to make a poor man's
Quickbeam. The 15t sits flush with the outer edge of the freewheel body
and on a 126mm spaced hub the chainline worked out to pretty much match the
47.5
I have never used an ENO hub from White Ind. but had strongly considered one in
the past and my research had led me to believe older versions actually used
threaded track cogs but they were more recently redesigned for their
proprietary splined track cogs. So unless you could find a NOS or
Birkenstock Boston clogs... not specifically for biking but they are my most
minimal pair of footwear and get used heavily and often double for pedaling
duty during warmer weather. The spiked VP thin gripsters I have on two bikes
grip the soft sole of the Birks well and I’ve only avoided using
Yep, Wasn’t sure how much wider you’re going for and not familiar with the GB
rims but the aero 20mm isn’t far off from the CR18 22mm but definitely closer
to the narrower VO PBP 19mm.
I’ve had success fitting the same sets of tires (from 28s up to actual 35s) on
a set of CR18s and also 19mm
If the Velocity Aero isn’t too narrow for you the Velocity Wheel Dept. still
has track wheels on sale under $200... I almost got a set as a lightweight
complement to an overkill chukker set I already bought last year to beat up on
my single speed. (The polo wheelset also still on sale for the
Tim, I should add that it could very well depend on the size frame too. The
65cm fits me just right for a big upright laid back ride but I have little
stand over with 97pbh on a frame suitable for up to 100pbh but for more
aggressive trail riding a 59cm frame with regular bullmoose bars would
Doug, I have no experience with a Hunq but own a Clem. The Clem has a Hunq
fork and otherwise appears to be just as stout as a Hunq but sans diagatube and
at a much lower price point. As others noted the Clem is much longer ... in
both chainstay and top tube. Clem is also designed for big
Very curious to see how this all turns out & to hear Grant/Riv’s thoughts on
drum brake-ifying the Hunq. Good call keeping the 2nd small chainring plus
spare chain just in case. Do you usually use a chain with master quick connect
links? You may be able to use an extra master link and form a
P.s. I realize the Schwalbe delta cruisers are not likely the best “all
weather” or “winter” tires but they’d go nicely with the rest of the build and
this would be intended to just allow me a fendered wet weather road bike with
plusher rubber that the currently maxed 700x32 and may even have
Genuine concern and not just playing devil’s advocate... but is it possible for
many caliper/canti designed forks to lack strength or lower blade reinforcement
for the lever arm of drums (similar to the way discs could overpower and
crumple some forks if not made with discs in mind) ? Clearly
remembered my Clem was 5mm since I previously had a Surly
rack installed for a short time and that came with all 5mm bolts but I
clearly forgot.
Thanks
On Wednesday, November 1, 2017 at 2:46:23 PM UTC-4, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
> I also already have those double sided bolts generally u
I also already have those double sided bolts generally used for canti specific
racks that I’ve thought could work as mentioned above but upon further
inspection they are 6mm on both ends and the Clem mid mounts are actually 5mm
vs the Simpleone fork which has 6mm mid mounts.
But thanks to all
Hi Shoji,
Yes, the v brake noodle unfortunately obstructs the center hole in the fork
crown. I actually already have the 32f but it was intended for another build
altogether that never came to fruition. Was meant to be paired with a
Simpleone fork (bought as a web special before the Rosco
Anyone already using this rack combo at the same time? I’m re-thinking
future front rack solutions for my 700c Clem. While considering
some alternate handlebar experiments (possibly moving currently
installed Chocomoose to another frame and going wider on Clem) I may
also substitute spare
“Mentioned” not “me ruined” ugh sorry
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Thanks Mark. considering I already have the R14 and 32f I’ll likely stick with
those anyway but good to know about the surly. The nice rack also requires a
little creative manipulation on the 700c Clem/Hunq fork with the high midfork
mounts but still works. I think that rack is a better fit
Can’t confirm but I think Clem has more clearance with Roman’s Rosco having the
Appaloosa crown and clearance.
Mark,
Thanks for sharing these pics as I’ve considered a surly 24 pack rack plus
basket for my own Clem but have been concerned about fit. This is a 700c/29er
Clem, 59cm right? I
Not a Cheviot, but I have similar drivetrain plans for my Clem. Well, I
should more accurately state that I've been trying to decide between doing
the Paul Melvin dingle thing with a single cog and spacers on the stock
rear wheel and Silver double crank vs. a 1x9 using a spare crank (or
Hi Tim,
I respond also having no first hand experience with them (aside from a mini diy
corner frame bag from a military surplus gas mask bag) but my understanding is
that going rackless not only saves weight but putting the heaviest items
inside the main triangle won’t affect the handling as
Riding
Individualistically
Versus
Inclusive
Stylistic
Habituation
Or something like that...
Brian Cole
Lawrenceville, NJ
On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 3:56:28 PM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
> I always thought Rivish was centered around the retrogrouch philosophy in
> which steel lugged
I found Clem to be more than reasonable for my own needs (and wants.)
After going down the fixer-upper rabbit hole several times after getting
back into cycling in recent years I finally invested in a Clem as my first
(and only) Rivendell and first complete bike purchase since 1994/95 (when I
Hi Kevin,
I had a similar occurrence with a drive side arm but my fix was as simple as
cleaning off the spindle, re-greasing, and reinstalling and tightening a little
tighter than before.
This was a NOS ritchey made by Sugino. After the above steps my problem was
solved although I did remove
If I remember correctly they did state in the Blug that "a few" of the Blue
Lug singlespeeders (Senor Frank Jones, I think) would likely be available
in the US but not to expect any tall ones. The Rosco Roads have Simpleone
forks and the same clearances as QB/Simpleone but not the long track
Jay, I'd absolutely love one of each but it's unfortunately not in the
budget... nor do I have the space. When choosing the 65cm Clem H as my
first Riv the value of the complete pre-sale and the timing of it's release
were a major deciding factor. In hindsight, had I waited for the Mega
These Rosco mega mountain mixtes look terrific. I had eagerly anticipated the
details of the larger Rosco Bubbes but when the 65cm mega Clem H was announced
and after an email exchange with Grant I determined the Clem Complete was right
for me at the time. This was before the specs of this
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