If you like lugged steel bikes with traditional geometries, you just can't
find a new bike in the $500 price range that compares to the golden age
70's and 80's (and early 90's bridgestone) bikes out there.There were
some seriously high quality steel frames made back then.I have a few
Hey Michael -
Do you still have the pair of Jack Brown 700c x 33.3 mm for 70$ ?? Paypal
?? Will you take 60$
Phil B
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I find it pleasing that Rivendell Bicycle Works is an anagram of Bicycler
Loved Wrinkles.
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 12:52:38 PM UTC-6, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
Lest it be forgotten:
Rivendell Bicycle Works: Nobody, but nobody makes a monkey out of us
Decided to quickly measure my Baby Bens. They seem to be sitting between
36 and 37mm on Salsa Delgado rims. Our weather has been cool and it has
been only five days. Do expect that in another few weeks they will relax
out to 38 or so.
Have noticed that so far, these tires are more U shaped on
White Indistries pedals in silver, really nice spinning pedals in very good
condition, $125 shipped
Brooks Brown Pro saddle, large copper rivets, chrome rails, no bag loops,
still nice and firm, just starting to break in, nice patina $80.00 shipped
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The Trunk Bag is sold.
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 4:26:19 PM UTC-4, shawn wrote:
Eric,
The bag is yours. Please check your e-mail for details.
Cheers
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 2:10:00 PM UTC-4, EGNolan wrote:
Sorry, I sent you an e-mail Shawn, but hadn't heard back. I'll take the
We had 90 degrees yesterday. Went straight from 3 winter layers and
fleece tights to short sleeves, shorts, sunscreen and dehydration. I
would love to have some weather in the 70s. It's really weird having
summer temperatures with all the street trees flowering.
On Wed, 2013-04-10 at 19:57
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:26 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks, Hugh and Dave. I enjoyed the photos tho' I didn't recognize any
particular route or scene except perhaps Hugh's view of the main drag. But
I do recall the typical landscape and fauna -- SoCal has more than its
Tires have been sold.
On Sunday, April 7, 2013 1:00:50 PM UTC-4, Christian wrote:
Hi everyone,
--Bosco Bullmoose 58cm bar in excellent shape. $115 plus shipping
--one pair Schwalbe folding Marathon Duremes plus tubes, 700 x 50, in
excellent shape. $60 plus shipping
--one pair
D'oh, I knew I forgot someone's photos!!!
Cheers,
David
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 5:26 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:26 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.comwrote:
Thanks, Hugh and Dave. I enjoyed the photos tho' I didn't recognize any
particular
Sold them already
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 11, 2013, at 2:19 AM, Phil Bickford phi...@sonic.net wrote:
Hey Michael -
Do you still have the pair of Jack Brown 700c x 33.3 mm for 70$ ?? Paypal ??
Will you take 60$
Phil B
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Check out the Giant Via1W.
It's made of steel and its price list is $600. It's the only steel bike in
that range and purpose that I could find for a friend who asked a similar
question.
René
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Torker also makes some good stuff in this price range:
www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commute/
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 4:12:26 PM UTC-4, EastBayGuy wrote:
So my little sister is looking into getting a new/First bike. she plans on
going on a few S240's and will be commuting in the somewhat flat
I would strongly recommend going the used/craigslist route. Such a better
value, she can get SUCH a better bike going that way, even if she wants to
take it to the LBS to get a full tune-up/service.
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Are those Urban Platform pedals? If so then I am interested!
Alex
St. Paul, MN
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:23 AM, hobie moho1...@yahoo.com wrote:
White Indistries pedals in silver, really nice spinning pedals in very
good condition, $125 shipped
Brooks Brown Pro saddle, large copper rivets,
We're having thundersnow in the Minneapolis, Minnesota area today. Already
a few inches on the ground. Until today was out riding most days even if
it was cold.
Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:56 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
We had 90 degrees yesterday.
Rivendell ...
Past, Present, Future, no need to be linear about it
Ted
On Tuesday, April 9, 2013, Michael Williams wrote:
I was riding home on my commute tonight. It consists a bit of trails and
pavement.I couldnt help but think how capable Rivendell bikes are.
Thought it be a fun
I just bought a '97 Rivendell from a gent on craigslist. I forgot to ask
him what model it is! I'll probably bug him today to be sure, but is there
a way to tell the model from the serial? My BB is stamped Everest on one
side, and H970XX on the other side. Handcrafted in Waterford on the
I was cycling with my brother in Switzerland a few years back, and he got a
cut in the side-wall of his tyre big enough for my little finger to fit
through. I asked if he had a banknote on him, and he produced a 200 franc
note, which I used to boot the tyre. We only re-inflated it to about 30 psi
perfect
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ted Shwartz
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 8:19 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Rivendell phrase game
Rivendell ...
Past, Present, Future, no need to be
From 1997, I'd reckon it was the Road Standard.
Here is the page I still haven't completed, that at least has the original
three models, with some very rough notes.
http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/gen1/
- Jim / cyclofiend.com
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We're not going to help until you post pictures.
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 4:46 AM, Tim Gavin
tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.comwrote:
I just bought a '97 Rivendell from a gent on craigslist. I forgot to ask
him what model it is! I'll probably bug him today to be sure, but is there
a way to tell
Submitted for your consideration: a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new
Hilsen build. I’m experiencing some auto-shifting and cog skipping when
going uphill, pedaling hard or pedaling out of the saddle. I’d appreciate
the group’s suggestions for a solution.
Frame: 65 AHH, Waterford, 135
Rivendell. If you like it, buy it while we still have it... Or wait,
because you'll like what we get next too.
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I don't know how you managed it with only 200 miles on the transferred
parts, but it sounds like your new chain is dancing over worn cogs and/or
chainrings.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:22:26 AM UTC-7, Doug M wrote:
Submitted for your consideration: a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new
I get auto shifting on my new Sam in the same circumstances.
*I was told by Rivendell* that all you can really do is tighten the shifter
lever wingnut more to keep the derailleur from slipping out of alignment in
the rear.
I am not used to friction shifting.
I have found that it takes a
Could be worn cogs or chain rings, but unlikely with 200 miles (unless
using a worn out chain to begin with).
First, I'd check the chain (which OP noted as new)-- move the crank slowly
(when up on a repair stand or in reverse) to see if you have a tight link
or one that's bent. I had this
I think they should pay Manny for every one of those photos, whether Manny
said they could use them for free or not.
C'mon, Merry Sales is a business after all.
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How about calling Riv with the serial number? I think you can re-register
serial numbers with them.
Here's the serial number database link:
https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=323
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 12:02:45 PM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:
I don't know if this admittedly crappy picture
Try what Michael suggested above with tightening the shifter lever. That
worked for me.
Bryan
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I had the same problem on my Atlantis before I sent it to be repainted.
After it came back and I took it to my LBS to have the headset and BB
installed, my mechanic told me that the rear derailler hanger was a bit
bent, and he fixed it (being steel it's not a problem). After I rebuilt the
whole
Hope i tagged this correctly...I have a semi-cockpit of noodles (46cm),
Shimano brakes and top brake interupters for sale...Hoping $130 is a fair
price..also a Nitto 10 or 11cm stem (22.2/25.4) asking $50...contact
offline...Thanks ...PeterG
Measure the chainstay length. If it's similar or shorter than the Roadeo, you
almost certainly have the road standard. Given the sidepulls and year, that is
a strong possibility. The only model of that era was the road standard. If the
chainstays are longer, it would be a Longlow. But I'll have
This is one of those annoying things that seems to have a few possible
causes—I had the exact same problem with my Waterford Bombadil. In my case,
it was the plastic bottom bracket cable guide that was at fault. The one
that came on the bike new from Riv was black with only one mounting hole,
I see auto-correct somehow butchered my message. The sentence, The only model
of that era was the road standard should have read, The only short chainstay
model of that era was the road standard.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 11, 2013, at 10:59 AM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
The older lugs really narrow it down timewise. If you send me your frame's size
(C-T) and the chainstay length, I could track it down in the geometry charts of
one of my early Readers.
Being home sick today, what else am I gonna do?
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 11, 2013, at 9:02 AM, Tim Gavin
This might be off topic but there was an Allez for sale here a few weeks
ago. I'm looking for something similar. I don't care about fenders/tire
clearance (nice to have for sure, but not a requirement). I have bikes like
that. It will never have a load, will never be taken off road. It's a fair
I have an early Rivendell frame. There is a decal or painted initials *JB*or
letters
*J3* on the left chain stay. What is the significance of these
initials/letters?
Thanks,
Ojiisan
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To
If it is on the chainstay and looks like this:
http://www.campyonly.com/joebell.html
That would be Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing. Pretty much one of the best
paint shops in the states. Available as an upcharge feature on a number of
models.
JS on the bottom bracket shell in the serial
Joe Bell was the painter
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 12:06 PM, Ojiisan a...@mynvw.com wrote:
I have an early Rivendell frame. There is a decal or painted initials *JB*or
letters
*J3* on the left chain stay. What is the significance of these
initials/letters?
Thanks,
Ojiisan
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You
I do not have that particular derailleur, but on several of the ones I do
have, there are 3 adjustment screws. 2 of them, control lateral movement
(from high stop to low stop), the 3rd screw however controls the spring
tension on the derailleur cage (which positions the jockey swing arm fore
Lots of good recommendations here. To troubleshoot, I would follow these
steps:
- Bike on stand, pedals backwards. If there is a stiff link, it will
obviously hang in the pulleys.
- Eyeball the chain from back/top - make sure there are no protruding pins.
- With no chain tension, grasp rear
I think this is a derailleur adjustment issue. A prickly little problem because
it's hard to recreate consistantly on the road--never mind on the work stand.
Assuming no hanger alignment issues, a very minor quarter or half turn of the
cable barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur will likely
I would look at the silver shifters first. In my experience unless you set
the cable tension pretty high they tend to cause skipping.
Dan Abelson
St. Paul MN
On Apr 11, 2013 11:22 AM, Doug M yengamg...@gmail.com wrote:
Submitted for your consideration: a crunchy drivetrain problem on my new
My experience is the same as Dans - been through it with two different
bikes. Bob
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 2:39 PM, Dan Abelson d...@abelsons.net wrote:
I would look at the silver shifters first. In my experience unless you set
the cable tension pretty high they tend to cause skipping.
Dan
I have a brand new (green) VO Polyvalent frame, 57cm size. Specs can be
seen here http://support.velo-orange.com/#polyvalent.html. I built it up
and have ridden perhaps 10 miles. For various reasons I find myself unable
to keep it. Asking $420 plus actual shipping. Please email me offlist
Well, the 57.5 Proto Sam is gone.
- Frank
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 9:43:56 PM UTC-4, Dave Rivbike wrote:
Just posting here to give y'all a little heads up on some web special
frames. A few neat ones, and I'll post more tomorrow.
http://www.rivbike.com/New-Stuff-s/489.htm
I'll be
there is the Bizzaro Simple One, the more I look at it the more strange it
is.
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf-059.htm
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 3:54 PM, frank_a fk...@aol.com wrote:
Well, the 57.5 Proto Sam is gone.
- Frank
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 9:43:56 PM UTC-4, Dave Rivbike
what, an integrated headset?
:-)
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 9:12:56 PM UTC-7, Amit Singh wrote:
I'd ride that!
On Wednesday, 10 April 2013 17:58:15 UTC-4, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
Could it be?!?
http://www.oldbike.eu/museum/1901-2/c1900-double-top-tube-29-eadie-track-racer/
=- Joe
Some mean Rivendell phrases I saw on another forum (hostile forum). I
thought they were witty. But they are mean. Don't take this personally
anyone, just, objectively, thought you'de get a chuckle.:
One does not simply ride their Rivendell into Mordor
and,
It should be taken back, and
Thanks Michael
Phil
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 7:05:03 AM UTC-7, Michael Williams wrote:
Sold them already
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I have experienced similar experiences after replenishing drivetrain
consumables (chain, cogs, rings) and cables, which cause me to readjust
derailleurs/shifters. For sure a fresh drivetrain is touchier about chain
line until the teeth are burnished by the chain and have more surfaces that
may
PS- don't stand until you know you are solidly in gear.
I hate when the chain auto shifts while I am standing - ouch!!
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It reminds me of the original Cannondale MTBs with the 24-inch rear wheel.
Very weird.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 1:08:37 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
there is the Bizzaro Simple One, the more I look at it the more strange it
is.
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf-059.htm
On Thu, Apr
I will measure it when I get home from work, James. I'm pretty sure it's a
road standard, as the collective mind seems to indicate. Were all 97
frames built by Waterford?
I've transferred over my seat and pedals from my main road Trek. This bike
is set up kinda interesting. It has sealed Phil
Yes that's the logo! And I just started the Reader thumb drive. Many
thanks, Ojiisan
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 11:15:26 AM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
If it is on the chainstay and looks like this:
http://www.campyonly.com/joebell.html
That would be Joe Bell Bicycle Refinishing. Pretty
Actually, that really should not change a thing in this case. That
specific adjustment is really to tune an indexed shifting setup. You will
adjust cable tension, but since the indexing is really done at the lever,
it is not a constant.
The core issue with modern drivetrains is that they
I would strongly disagree with Zack. Buying used is not a good idea. There
are just too many risks, too much screwing around, and too much pressure to
make a quick decision (selecting from a limited number of choices) for the
novice used bike shopper. Better to buy something new from a bike
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and started
getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously offered wisdom.
As it turns out, when I removed the wheel and examined the cluster there was a
small but noticeable amount of wiggle per Cyclofiend
Me no comprendo.
Is this green thing a 58cm Trek 720? Is it for sale? Does it cost $120?
Kevin
In Chicago
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You can re build a 105 hub for like $5 worrth of new ball bearings and
grease.
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 6:36 PM, Doug M yengamg...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and
started getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously
Give me a call, Doug. That's a great choice of hub/rim, in my experience.
On Thursday, April 11, 2013 6:36:55 PM UTC-5, Doug M wrote:
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Got home from work today and
started getting my fingers greasy looking into it with your generously
offered
I dunno Jim if that kind of fear is warranted. If this person has access to
a decent wrench most bike repairs are pretty straight forward, in my
experience.
On Apr 11, 2013 7:34 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
I would strongly disagree with Zack. Buying used is not a
Here in Southern California it was... ahh, never mind...
Cheers,
David
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:23 AM, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com wrote:
We're having thundersnow in the Minneapolis, Minnesota area today.
Already a few inches on the ground. Until today was out riding most days
even
She has access to these good people as well:
http://www.davisbikecollective.org/
But I get where Jim's coming from. I presume a lot about bike selection,
fit and maintenance that maybe I shouldn't.
Cheers,
David
On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 4:56 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:
I
Saw this on the news tonight about a new machine at an LBS. We all agree
that good bike sizing is important to comfortable riding, but is it
necessary to go beyond inseam height and a few other basic manual
measurements?
The Summer House or Grotto was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted as part of
an improvement to the Capitol grounds in the 1880s, after the addition of the
north and south wings. It was intended as a place for visitors to rest and get
a drink of water, so you're using it exactly as intended!
How tall is she? I have a Novara Safari sitting around not doing anything
and it would be fine for something like that. It's a small one though.
On Wednesday, April 10, 2013 3:12:26 PM UTC-5, EastBayGuy wrote:
So my little sister is looking into getting a new/First bike. she plans on
Sorry, I posted this as a favor to the lists and not only as a favor to the
shop. Perhaps that is not kosher?
$800 and packing and shipping est. $120.
It's nice and my size and I want someone else to buy it before I am tempted.
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Hey gang,
Anyone else planning to do a ride this Saturday? It seems details to make
this really happen have been scarce. I only have time for a few hours and
will likely have to duck out early so I don't feel like the right one to
head this up (never mind that I don't know PDX very well). Are
Who is doing the buying and setup? Stevie's, where I have just started
working, has that Nishiki Mixte, tuned, for $180 plus tax -- just one
example. I've bought very nice schlep around bikes -- Raleigh Sportses,
Schwinn Collegiates, Surburbans, and ilk, Nishiki mixte, etc, etc, etc,
from
Until I started joining all my chains with masterlinks, I'd sometimes be
plagued with stiff links just barely stiff enough to cause skipping but not
stiff enough to see by eye when pedaling the chain backward -- at least,
not by my eyes. I'd have to run the chain through my fingers, backpedaling,
I admit to harboring a stereotype that this young woman just wants a
comfortable, reliable bike to ride, and does not care to get into a project
refurbing an obscure antique. Perhaps I'm wrong.
I realize that some used bikes are a good deal, and need little or no TLC to be
a good rider. But
Well while I doubt she wants to rebuild the SA hub on a Raleigh Sprite
there are many levels of used bikes. I got a late 90s motobecane about 10
years ago that someone had traded in for their new ride. LBS gave it a good
tune up and said it had something like a 30 day warranty to see if anything
Any fit based on measurements, whether with a tape measure or a body scanner
with laser beams, is merely a starting point, since no two humans are alike.
But the market for this kind of service is the elite cyclist. By elite, I
mean spends a fortune. If one of these dudes is buying a $15k bike,
I agree with Jim's POV completely, and not becuase I work at a shop. For
someone looking to gain access to cycling or riding a bike on a regular
basis, getting a decent new bike (if it fits their budget) is usually the
best overall value for that person. With new bikes, one gets all new
Jim Thill writes:
I admit to harboring a stereotype that this young woman just wants a
comfortable, reliable bike to ride, and does not care to get into a project
refurbing an obscure antique.
I don't even think that counts as a stereotype. Some of the people on this
list love tinkering with
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