I've only ever clamped a seat post, never a tube. I've only had a work stand
for a few years, though.
I may have seen a shop clamp a tube once or twice... In the eighties.
You know what sucks? Balancing the bike with your HEAD while you try to remove
the bottom bracket. I put the bike in the sta
On the other hand, that eyelet crimp on the arm doesn't look like you could
rotate the light around so much to make it rotate higher if needed, so the
Marks rack attachment would give you more freedom of rotation and...(blows
raspberry with finger on lips and eyes-crossed while tearing hair out)
They still get big credit for posting this:
http://surlybikes.com/blog/post/some_answers_to_just_about_any_bike_forum_post_ive_ever_read
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:55 PM, Bruce Smitham wrote:
> OK, I'll admit that I own a Surly Pacer and have owned a LHT to get me
> down the coast of California
I think that light mount is a piece of metal bolted onto the strut that
they offer, not a welded on light mount arm, like the Berthoud.
Here it is, scroll down until you see the cockpit shot of the
black-bar-taped-handlebarred-bike-withbag. The next pix below is the rack.
See how the light moun
And by the way...How come Honjo Hammered fenders for 650b prices swing
wildly from 80-something$/pair to almost 200$/pair?
Are there different levels of quality among Honjo 650b hammered
fenders? Special runs?
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O
I'm keeping the Hetres.
But I want to try Cypress 32's just to see how they feel in comparison
(there is another thread of mine from a month or so ago about ponderings on
that, but now I'm talking fenders, not tires.).
If they feel just as good to me, then I might use them since I think they
wil
why are you getting rid of the hetres?
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 11:46 PM, lungimsam wrote:
> 1. How much clearance above tread, all around tire?
> 2. How much clearance from sides of tire (where the rolled edges envelope
> sides of tire)?
> 3. Should I just get the widest fender that will fit on
OK, I'll admit that I own a Surly Pacer and have owned a LHT to get me down the
coast of California in the summer when my a Soma San Marcos build didn't work
out. I am disappointed in Surly these days. The Racing Sucks is so close to
"Un-Racer" and now they are making wool stripped shirts that t
1. How much clearance above tread, all around tire?
2. How much clearance from sides of tire (where the rolled edges envelope
sides of tire)?
3. Should I just get the widest fender that will fit on the bike? I am
hoping to settle on 32-42mm Compass/GB tires for my Bleriot. I have Hetres
on it no
http://boulderbicycle.bike/Bags-and-Racks/Nitto-Racks-and-hardware/Nitto-M18-Rack-for-bike-without-Canti-s-with-light-bracket.html
On Monday, October 13, 2014 10:11:43 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Looking online, I haven't found many front racks for sidepulls, and the
> only one I have seen wit
Looking online, I haven't found many front racks for sidepulls, and the
only one I have seen with a dedicated light mount is the Berthoud rack
(non-drive side). That is a big attraction to me, since I would hate to get
a rack and discover that the light I want (hanging edelux II) won't fit
easi
Yeah, Roms of any variety are possibly the best value in Rivs ever. Clems
may give them a run for the money.
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:06 PM, James Warren
wrote:
>
> Canti-Rom still might be coolest Riv ever!
>
> Redwood is of same vintage. Have fun!
>
>
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 7:48 PM, cyclotouri
Canti-Rom still might be coolest Riv ever!
Redwood is of same vintage. Have fun!
On Oct 13, 2014, at 7:48 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
> Jim, saw that one sell on the bay and glad it went to a good home! Looks like
> someone thought it out and built it up thoughtfully. I've always felt the
> Redw
Jim, saw that one sell on the bay and glad it went to a good home! Looks
like someone thought it out and built it up thoughtfully. I've always felt
the Redwoods were some of the most thoughtful bike Riv produced.
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 10:05 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
> Looks fantastic! Enjoy ge
I have messed up the decals on my Quickbeam though. No clear coat over
them...
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 4:09 PM, Eric Daume wrote:
> Never had a problem on any of my steel frames with clamping on the seat
> tube.
>
> Eric "but never for carbon" Daume
>
> On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Tonester
In case you've noticed in threads lately...yes, I'm debating with myself
the best way to mount an edeluxe to my Bleriot or Sam.
I have seen pics some have posted of the upright edeluxe mounted to the
front of their fender, in front of their handlebar bag.
Are these just regular metal fenders wi
PS - sorry I didn't get back to you about last Tuesday's ride.
If you are free Saturday morning, PM me and lets go for a ride! We can do
that loop you mentioned or something.
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Can you easily attach an edeluxe upside down light to it?
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Marks rack should be fine as a rando.
On Monday, October 13, 2014 3:49 PM, 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch
wrote:
I'm about to get a rack for my Homer. It's for rando, specifically a Berthoud
bag, and the Mark's rack is the one I'm leaning toward. I would possibly get a
Grand Bois from Compass
Congrats! That was fast. I'd love to see it sometime.
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To pos
Defeet Kneekers !
In Wool or Coolmax . Wear these with any socks, as long as it goes with
black :)
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Regarding tapping the bolt out. You should be able to shove it out with a
ballpoint pen. If you have a cable hanger hanging from the bolt to your
rear brake, then disconnect the cable down at the brakes. With slack in
the system there, literally you should be able to just shove it out with a
As others have said, kilt socks (if they are real kilt socks) will be long
enough to pull over the knee if you don't need to fold them back down. Kilt
socks are made long to leave a very generous fold to go back down the calf
to hang flashes, hold your Sgian Dubh (knife) and other assorted objec
Never had a problem on any of my steel frames with clamping on the seat
tube.
Eric "but never for carbon" Daume
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Tonester wrote:
> Folks, before you all trundle home and throw your bike up on the repair
> stand "Riv-style" (with the clamp around a tube) be forewa
Folks, before you all trundle home and throw your bike up on the repair
stand "Riv-style" (with the clamp around a tube) be forewarned that your
average repair stand clamp can do some serious damage to a down tube or top
tube. Be vey gentle
On Monday, October 13, 2014 3:39:46 PM UTC-7,
I'm about to get a rack for my Homer. It's for rando, specifically a Berthoud
bag, and the Mark's rack is the one I'm leaning toward. I would possibly get a
Grand Bois from Compass but they only have the racks that mount to canti studs.
They are a bit lighter than the Mark's rack. I do like the
On Monday, October 13, 2014 1:29:58 PM UTC-6, Jim D Massachusetts wrote:
>
> We need more pictures. How about some shots of the built up bike (for
> those of us with limited imagination). Jim D.Massachusetts
>
>>
>>
I'm starting to think that maybe Grant has been purposely sneaki
Campagnolo's seat post bolts were notorious for breaking--I've snapped several.
When I went to PBP, I took a spare ... and ended up using it when I snapped
mine in France while making a small adjustment in seat height.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Thanks!
Glad to know I'm not the only one! I almost never am hence why I asked.
Brian @ riv said I could bring in the seatpost and he would apply some
knurling to it, I had to look that up, will help with slipping.
Now I just need to work on tapping out the bolt and getting a new one.
--
You re
I know the feeling because I've had seatpost slippage on several bikes (I'm
100 kg +). The first time I ran into it, I also incrementally cranked the
bolt down tighter and tighter (without helping the slipping) until it
snapped. With that in mind, I guess if the bolt snaps it means the seatpost
I had thought to standardize on 700C, but that's such a pretty frame, I'm
almost tempted to introduce a new wheel, tire, and spacing size.
Someone will enjoy it mightily!
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 9:16:16 PM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>
> OK – here’s another opp’ty: a n
We need more pictures. How about some shots of the built up bike (for those
of us with limited imagination). Jim D.Massachusetts
On Friday, October 10, 2014 8:48:37 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote:
>
> The blug post says "Clemshots" (plural). Are there other images, or was
> that a(nother)
oh yea... there are a number of us who live in SoCal and get together for
mixed terrain rides and s24o's. If you are interested let me know and I
can include you on the email list.
~mike
Carlsbad Ca.
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I like that Cunningham a lot. Do you have any contact info?
~mike
Carlsbad Ca.
On Tuesday, October 7, 2014 9:58:41 AM UTC-7, Nanga Parbat wrote:
>
> Hello RBW OB,
> I am new to the group and have been following Rivendell since I first came
> across the All Rounder. I have attached a few photos o
Oops. My bad.
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of iamkeith
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 3:08 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Clem on the Blug
On Monday, October 13, 2014 1:01:15 PM UTC-6, Pudge wrote
On Monday, October 13, 2014 1:01:15 PM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:
>
> Oh, now I understand the question. I ride a 61 Homer, 61 Atlantis, 56
> Bombadil, 60 Quickbeam. All fit very well. I’ve never measured my Mystery
> Bike (proto-App), but my guess is the seat tube is pretty close to 59. It
> al
My seat post slipped also on my Hillborne. Part of the frame prep at any
bike shop is to take an abrasive round brush and smooth out the inside of
the seat tube where the seat stays and top tube have been welded to prevent
scratching the seat post.I measured my seat post and it was right on at
Oh, now I understand the question. I ride a 61 Homer, 61 Atlantis, 56
Bombadil, 60 Quickbeam. All fit very well. I’ve never measured my Mystery
Bike (proto-App), but my guess is the seat tube is pretty close to 59. It also
fits great, maybe the most comfortable of the bunch. My PBH around 8
On Monday, October 13, 2014 12:44:23 PM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:
>
> They were sized to each buyer, because I believe all buyers already
> owned at least one Rivendell, which presumably fit well. I’m not certain I
> fully understand your question, but I would characterize my Proto-App as
> roadis
This suddenly makes the fixed setstay angle on that lug in the catalog
sensible doesn't it
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 11:44 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J <
thomas.alling...@skadden.com> wrote:
> They were sized to each buyer, because I believe all buyers already
> owned at least one Rivendell, which p
They were sized to each buyer, because I believe all buyers already owned at
least one Rivendell, which presumably fit well. I’m not certain I fully
understand your question, but I would characterize my Proto-App as roadish with
clearance for 40mm tires. It has more standover clearance than my
Maybe it's the color, but the more I look at this (read: obsess over), the
more I think it looks like a stripped-down Appaloosa. Difficult to tell
how high the bottom bracket is, but it sure looks like a longish top tube
to go with those long chainstays.
Does anybody (perhaps one of the buyers
Looks fantastic! Enjoy getting her dialed in!
With abandon,
Patrick
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I had a Marks rack. I found it to be heavy (lots of fasteners) and very
flexy.
Clay
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hey, that's my size. Congrats on a great find.
On Monday, October 13, 2014 11:45:41 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> After first ride:
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/Pfyjf3
>
> Out of the box experience:
> -notably lighter than my custom, maybe due to all 105 drivetrain/hubs?
> -g
Patrick, that's the other idea, green loctite 609 for sliding cylindrical
fit. You can also find 27.4mm seatpost - I know Thomson makes one.
On Monday, October 13, 2014 11:48:44 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Re: #1: You've obviously got either a slightly undersized post of a
> slightly o
I solved my slipping seatpost on my Moser with a Super Record expander
seatpost - clamps internally like a quill stem - add that with the lug
binder bolt and it snugged up nicely. I sniped mine on ebay for $70, which
was a good price, and it was also very nice condition. The problem with
Sup
Re: #1: You've obviously got either a slightly undersized post of a
slightly oversized seat tube. Long ago I had a Syncros titanium post
labeled 27.2 on my Riv fixed gofast. It would slip as you described yours
doing. I fixed that temporarily with blue Loctite (clean off the grease
first) and perma
Ha! Perhaps it's hypoxia. Grin. The Quickbeam test ride to the toll booth
went swimingly so Quickbeam it is, though I'll have to try and time my
arrival to the gate for after the line of cars at opening (9am) is through
to minimize brain exposure. Now I just have to hope they clear the highway
After first ride:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/23646261@N03/Pfyjf3
Out of the box experience:
-notably lighter than my custom, maybe due to all 105 drivetrain/hubs?
-good packing job
-cables looked/worked great, no binding
-drivetrain required no adjustment, shifts extremely well
-chain a bit rusty,
This used to happen on one of my bikes. Tapping the bolt out works. Two other
suggestions when you do get it out. First see if the cable hanger binding on
the seatpost. Had to grind a bit off one to make things work. Also as others
suggested, measure the seatpost. In my case, had to get rid of
To get the bolt out, go to a auto parts store or the like and buy yourself
an easy out tool. You will have to drill a small hole in the end of the
broken bolt. Then insert the tool and turn counter clockwise. It should
come right out.
Secondly, get yourself some good calipers and measure the seat
haha like!
On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 9:13 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
> jack it up and put a new steel frame underneath
>
>
> On Sunday, October 12, 2014 8:52:52 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>> All the world needs is some carbon glue . . . .. . lol ! haH !
>
> --
> You received this message because yo
Thanks! Brian just emailed me back too and is on par with what you said:
As for that bolt, just tap it out. There's no head, so nothing is holding
it in place expect for friction and the brake cable hanger. Grab the hanger
and hold it up so you get less friction, then just tap that bolt out with a
It borked the threads something terrible, for sure. But unlike Patrick I am
wary to take power tools to my bikes, haha. What my dad suggested would
have worked better, start with a small drill bit, work your way up in
sizes, slowy, until there is almost no bolt left and then you should be
able to b
how did you tap it out, isn't it threaded in the housing? or does tapping
it out also take the housing out?
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:50 AM, Goshen Peter
wrote:
> and yes the threads got ruined, I don't know how to fix it without that
> happening short of what you said, drilling it out but that
and yes the threads got ruined, I don't know how to fix it without that
happening short of what you said, drilling it out but that sounds more like
a home mechanic job than a lbs job.
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Goshen Peter
wrote:
> this same thing happened to me. I took a very skinny scr
this same thing happened to me. I took a very skinny screwdriver, put it on
the head of the sheared bolt and tapped it out with a paper hammer, just in
case one of my whacks missed the bolt. it took a while but it worked.
On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 11:47 AM, DS wrote:
> I emailed brian @ riv who he
I emailed brian @ riv who helped put this Hunq together, but while I wait
for a response I thought I'd swing this by the RBW group since I'm
generally not very mechanically inclined (I learn by you tube videos).
1. Been having major issues with seat post slippage on the Hunq. Every time
I thin
Professionals aren't magicians, and it's possible to do many repairs on
carbon fibers yourself. But a pro is definitely faster, have experience and
a routine to follow, and have access to all tools and materials needed. In
the end your friend probably will have to overbuild the repair to be on t
Unless your friend has access to the correct crabon fiber cloth, the
correct matrix material, vacuum bonding equipment and heat blankets, it
would indeed be silly to try to implement a repair. He would not be able
to asses the integrity of the repair otherwise, and it would likely fail
again s
Hi all,
First time poster here - sorry it's commercial in nature.
I'm getting ready for a new build and thought I'd see if anyone had some
dynamo wheels or components before building something from scratch.
Happy to Paypal funds, would also be happy to include as part of the
transaction a t
What is this 32-22 bail-out of which you speak? You're not even under-geared
yet! You must be really strong from playing in thin mountain air.
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Great news... There is a 54cm enroute to me, due this Wednesday. Just the frame
set though. I'm sizing up the components on the Riv and velo Orange
sites...thank you T.O.M.
Rod
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