That's a very pretty bike!
What's the word on Glorious sizing? For some reason, I keep thinking that
the legacy Rivendell mixtes were sized smaller than norm, meaning one
should size them smaller than what the PBH - 26 method indicates.
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Climbing Old La Honda on my Atlantis near Woodside, California.
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/262744_10151306751196692_1547264971_n.jpg
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small platforms. So they're not terribly
appropriate for big panniers. For example, my Ortlieb Office bag isn't the
most stable on the VO constructor rear rack. However, when used with the
appropriate bags, they're tough to beat for value even if they're not the
prettiest.
Cheers,
Benz
Sunnyvale
And the corollary to that will be It doesn't work.
On Monday, April 22, 2013 12:34:19 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
There is always only one answer to I bent it and it broke: Don't do
that.
On Sunday, April 21, 2013 9:19:35 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
A wise man once said I can take a crap in
Looks like the Rivy-hubbed wheels are 26 as per 559 label on the rims.
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 12:41:18 PM UTC-7, RJM wrote:
What are the wheels? 700's, 650, 26 ??
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 12:43:06 AM UTC-5, Matt Gilkey wrote:
OK, here we go again..
Hello,
My name is
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-skaLwkf3oBg/UYcIto4VpRI/AEQ/hBPMW1gWK9o/s1600/3M+film+for+dynamo+wire.JPG
I bought a roll of 3M Scotchgard paint protection film from eBay to use on
the chainstay instead of buying ready-made ones from the bike shop. Since I
had a lot of leftovers, I
The film is designed to well stick to painted surfaces as it was originally
intended for protecting the frontal painted parts of a car from rocks and
small debris. My carbon fork is clearcoated so it's essentially painted.
You'll actually need to clean off any wax with IPA (isopropyl alcohol,
On Friday, May 10, 2013 7:27:02 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
Handlebar position has nothing to do with whether a bike has low, medium
or high trail.
I don't know if that is entirely true. Certainly, lower trail bikes favor
having a load at the front to feel normal, at least for me.
Actually, the way I read that segment, it's not entirely clear that DD do
all the stock frames. Pertinent to the discussion is the header of the
segment - *Custom Paint FAQs*. I take it to mean that if you want a custom
color, then stock frames go to DD. I will be surprised if stock colors on
Put me down for one, especially if we go for the organic cow hide version.
I don't particularly believe you need a large pre-order. The saddles won't
be any different than normal production saddles with the only difference
being the unique stamping. Assumably, the stamp already/still exists
I'm OCD so I like my bikes as pristine as possible, although I can
understand and accept beausage if said beausage is obtained in the line of
duty. Battle scars if you will. To me, however ugly I find beausage
(remember: OCD), they at least remind me of the times and good times I had
with the
Since you brought up efficacy, do you have a peer-reviewed article to cite
regarding this? No, a cracked helmet is not a demonstration of its
efficacy; prove to yourself by cracking one in your hand and noticing that
it takes very little force to do it. And no, a bicycle helmet is
If you're looking for something a smidgen smaller than the Challenge PRs,
try the Grand Bois Cerf Green. While Compass Bicycles had them listed as
29mm, I've found that these fit my Colnago Master whereas the PRs didn't.
Same wheel and pressure (Campagnolo Neutrons) and both sets of tires were
You may also want to consider the TB14 from H Son Plus -
http://hplusson.com/products/TB14
I built up a set of these in Hard Ano a while ago and they are quite
classic looking.
On Wednesday, October 31, 2012 12:48:21 PM UTC-7, stee...@gmail.com wrote:
snip
Grand Bois -
I went with two other Rivendell-aware riding buddies and had a blast
working through the bargains and chatting with other friends whom I've not
seen in person for a while (e.g., Manny A).
*Best score:
*8 pieces of Wooly Warm baselayers. At $5 a piece, it felt like stealing.
Sure, they were all
The bike is currently set up for a saddle height of 70.6 cm. Yes, I asked
because (darn it!) it looks to be my size.
A PBH of 88.9 cm should have a saddle height of closer to 80 cm, maybe 78
or 79cm. That's an extra 3 of seatpost, which means you'll need to raise
the handlebar a similar amount
That front derailleur cable routing appears to be jerry-rigged. Once you
get the cable stop established (looks like it's piggy-backing on the rear
derailleur cable boss), the rest is relatively easy as there's going to be
a guide at the bottom of the BB anyway.
On Saturday, December 29, 2012
Maybe Grant has lost it and designed this bike for the SRAM XX1! Carbon
everything, baby! :)
http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/family/xx1
On Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:34:31 AM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
This bike has very long chainstays, a very long headtube, and is not
intended to be
René, a little late for you perhaps, but when I installed aluminum fenders
on my Atlantis, there was so much space between a properly positioned
fender and the fork crown/stay bridges that it was impossible to span using
a normal daruma bolt. What saved me was Mcmaster-Carr. Witness:
- The
I would think that with the prevalence of STI/Ergo/Rapidfire/Gripshifters
and their lack of a lockout, it will be a significant liability when one
attempts to upshift to a larger gear while pushing super hard and
got...nothing but a freewheeling crank with its associated crash.
Bishop Bikes
Although I do not dispute that weight plays a part in how a bike *feels*,
unless your Rivs weigh close to 30 lb or you weigh closer to 100 than 200
lb, those few pounds is only a very small percentage of the total
bike+rider+accessories weight, which is what's important in a purely
Seeing that the cable stop on the chainstay is on the bottom of the
chainstay, even if you can route the rear derailleur cable using the
Campagnolo cable guide, how will you address the chainstay cable stop issue?
Go with the Teflon cable lining. New cable installations should likely have
some tandem stuff too). I don't know if standard bike shops
carry this...
Toshi in Oakland, CA
On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 12:24 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
benzo...@gmail.com javascript:
wrote:
Seeing that the cable stop on the chainstay is on the bottom of the
chainstay
Those differences are mostly inconsequential. Take for example the 108.
Compared to the 110, it's narrower by 1mm per side. OK, so sometimes that
can mean the difference between the crank arms clearing the chainstay, but
most of the time it's really not that important to get the BB length spot
Might be difficult to do the conversion...
From 700C to 650B, you'll need to drop the brake pads by about 19mm. That
appears doable on the front but the rear brake is already mid-slotted so
that may be problematic. Furthermore, the current brakes look to be
Dia-Compe Mod 750. These brakes have
You guys are all textbook sandbaggers! It's not even Friday and all I see
are claims of unfitness. This totally reminds me of the start line at the
races. :)
I'll be there with either my Atlantis or Indy Fab Club Racer,
weather-dependent because the Atlantis has full fenders (even courtesy
Not to hijack this thread but is there an online pictorial on the different
Atlantis lugsets?
On Thursday, January 24, 2013 3:22:55 PM UTC-8, frank_a wrote:
It would be AT0197. It's an early one with the original lugs.
- Frank
On Jan 23, 11:15 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Jeremy,
I'm interested but am unsure what a medium will fit. I'm 5'10, 165 lb, 31
waist but with short legs (81cm PBH). Do you think they'll fit?
Thanks,
Benz
On Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:34:37 PM UTC-8, Jeremy wrote:
I picked these up whenever they were in production last. Size is
Fairly windy? A little rough?
Understatements of the year perhaps? (it's early in 2013) :)
The rollers to the Marshall store didn't end up being rollers as we had to
pedal to keep moving on the flat sections. No momentum was carried at all
from the downhills. I was crawling in my granny on 4%
Thanks for the tip Ron!
BTW, the VO leather washers are quite thin and spongy, and compresses to
almost nothing in use. Worse yet, after some use, they tend to disintegrate
a little and feather out like cheap leather. I don't particularly equate
them to quality products.
I like my washers to
I'm not sure it's the price that's keeping the Riv folks from using dynamo
lighting. During the last garage sale, they had a whole bag of new SP
dynamo hubs that were sold for a song ($20 or $25). If any of the Riv folks
had wanted those, I suspect they would have gotten a similarly good price
Although I like the Velcro strap version I got from Riv slightly better, my
LBS (Outfitter in Los Altos, CA) also carries a similar safety reflecto
triangle with the two Velcro straps. I don't know if it's MUSA but it does
appear to be something that they just ordered off their normal catalog.
I'm with Franklyn regarding the Tanaka fenders. I've got a 26x60mm set on
my Atlantis and it took an hour or two to install, *after* I gathered all
the necessary hardware and tools (spacers, drill, etc). It's not hard work,
but one needs to be patient and knowing the tricks of installing metal
On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 4:31:51 AM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
pardon my ignorance. What's a Euro Style workstand?
Michael
On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:35:18 AM UTC-5, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
I'm with Franklyn regarding the Tanaka fenders. I've got a 26x60mm set
on my
Are you using Velox (read: thick) rim tape? The Challenge-A23 difficulty
can be tackled by using either Velocity's own Veloplugs or a thin rim tape
like Ritchey or Rox. The Challenge tires, at least the Parigi-Roubaix, do
stretch out a bit after use so they do get significantly easier to
Have you considered Ortlieb panniers, especially the classic kind? Those
can get absolutely filthy, but a strong blast of water from a hose with
maybe a light swipe of a brush will return them to almost pristine
condition. You don't even have to unpack them as the rolltop is essentially
Never tried this before as I have 26x2.0 on Cascadia fenders and they fit
somewhat nicely, but Cascadia fenders are polycarbonate. Back in the day
when I was still messing around with 1/10 and 1/8-scale RC cars, the bodies
were polycarbonate and we used to use a hairdryer to soften them, so as
I've not used my Fly for saddlebag support, only panniers. Visually
inspecting, the Fly has a fairly narrow platform, especially towards the
front so I don't think the designers had saddlebag support in mind when
they conceived the Fly.
On Monday, July 15, 2013 8:00:09 PM UTC-7, Evan Spacht
Alas, not wool though! The Grant will be displeased. :)
On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 9:03:55 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
Nice catch Clayton. It even has the shoulder buttons!
On 7/17/13, clayton treef...@yahoo.com javascript: wrote:
Did you spot the easter egg of a mid-ride drink? Cheers! :)
On Monday, August 5, 2013 5:29:04 PM UTC-7, EricP wrote:
First off, really like the video. Does a great job of showing how a
person can ride knowing the route like the back of a hand. Although will
admit to being shocked
On Tuesday, August 6, 2013 5:19:44 PM UTC-7, William wrote:
[...] I redrilled holes with the fender rotated far enough forward that it
clears, and I'll take up the extra space with a home-made flap to save my
feet from spray
This trick will also mitigate the fender hitting the curb even if
Like most here, I've found Brooks saddles to be my mainstay nowadays. But
it didn't start that way.
Long ago, when I was racing, I went through the saddle musical chairs and
found Avocet's 40R and the Selle Italia Flite to be the ideal saddles. I
even traded expensive failed experiments for
When did the Atlantis price go up? I thought it was slowly creeping up and
jumped only recently when they became order-only from Waterford rather than
an ongoing production model from Toyo.
FWIW, the yen-dollar exchange rate hovered around 110-120 between '96 and
'07, before it broke the
It is possible to solder stainless if you use the right flux. Look for
stainless-specific flux; they usually contain zinc chloride and
hydrochloric acid (read: ensure adequate ventilation). You'll want to fray
out the individual strands a bit to clean them with alcohol or something
similar
permanently
frayed.
On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 3:41:57 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 12/30/2013 11:17 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
You'll want to fray out the individual strands a bit to clean them
with alcohol or something similar before applying the flux,
I thought the entire point
That's a pretty Bonty! I have a friend whose Trek is two toned, except his
was differentially toned laterally. It cost him quite a bit to get two sets
of parts in two colors so that the color schemes are maintained on each
side. Madness! Even from an OCDer.
On Tuesday, December 31, 2013
I thought both males and females have hearts. Or at least they both should.
:)
On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 12:44:13 PM UTC-8, Johnny Alien wrote:
I really like the looks of it but don't know why they chose to put the
hearts on a gender neutral bike. Other than that I dig everything else.
I don't know. Let's do a thought experiment. Let's assume that the wheels
have a very high rotational inertia. Wouldn't that smooth out the sine wave
you're talking about? The slowing down part is when rotational
potential+kinetic energy gets converted to potential energy against
gravity.
On Friday, January 3, 2014 3:52:02 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 01/03/2014 05:55 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Maybe it's the prototype and Riv caught that detail and the production
ones will have it further back?
Maybe it's on-purpose for those who will not run fenders and will run
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 1:59:42 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:
Yeah, I was kind of surprised by the power hammer. It makes sense, of
course, but in my imagination I thought there would be some olde tyme forge
and a blacksmith type guy (blonde haired of course because its Sweden) with
a
steel
bladed kitchen knives.
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 5:14:10 PM UTC-8, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2014 1:59:42 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:
Yeah, I was kind of surprised by the power hammer. It makes sense, of
course, but in my imagination I thought there would be some
I've bought from both Tree Fort Bikes and Outside Outfitters. Both had been
good to me and I can recommend them as a satisfied customer. The Shimano
Dynamo wheel from Outside Outfitters probably requires a bit of
investigation as Shimano make quite a few dynamo hubs.
You may also want to
at $282 on Peter White's website.
Disclaimer: I currently own both a Son 28 classic laced to a 700c
wheel and the 650b Shimano dynamo wheel that Patrick linked to from
Outside Outfitters.
On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 12:59 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
benzo...@gmail.com javascript: wrote
I've been running a Michelin Protek Max tube for about a few weeks when I
saw your original post. I thought I wouldn't reply since I don't really get
that many flats and it had *only* been a few weeks. Well, today, my
Protek-tubed rear wheel ran into a nail-like device and flatted, just like
Hi Jim,
Although the Silver shifter is half-ratchety and half-friction, there is
something one can do to mitigate the in between situation you've
described - overshift on the ratchet side and then pull back on the
friction side. Remember that every time one shifts on the friction side,
the
As others have eluded to, the M12 canti-stud mounting method is not a
plug-n-play with Suntour XC Pro cantilever brakes. The issue here is that
the brake mounting bolt is recessed, while the M12 requires a flat
platform to attach to. So you can try any brake that does not
use recessed mounting
Do you have V-brakes or cantilevers? If the former, you'll need the V-brake
specific road levers or use something like a Travel Agent. If the former,
you're good to go with the non-aero levers.
On Sunday, April 6, 2014 12:23:37 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I am assessing if this is a job
I went all out for a Jan Heine bike – Boulder Bicycle Allroad with the
skinny top tube option (lightest combo), mated to Grand Bois Extra Leger
Hetre tires and even latex tubes. After riding it for more than 1000 miles
(brevets, commutes weekend rides), I don't know if all that expense was
On Friday, April 25, 2014 9:42:01 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
I've read that the gyroscope effect is not relevant for bikes-- didn't
someone build an anti-gyro bike, with a second wheel spinning in the
opposite direction, and discover that it was easy to steer?
Neither gyro nor trail is
True dat. My Compass 26 tires are noisy (they hum at speed) but they roll
quite nicely.
On Friday, May 9, 2014 11:41:30 AM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
Most of the analysis of rolling resistance for bicycle tires points at
casing construction as a much more significant factor WRT rolling
I have the whole Rivendell outfit: yellow poncho with yellow fisherman's
hat. Even with fenders with long flaps, I still need rain pants/shoe covers
(Showers Pass is good) if I want to be entirely dry at speed (ca. 15 mph).
If I'm willing to slow down to jogging speed and there isn't much wind,
On Saturday, June 7, 2014 1:36:42 PM UTC-7, Roger wrote:
There were a few beautiful complete bikes: a Betty Foy, robin's egg blue
with red fills, and the recent proto-Hunqa. Both may have found forever
homes today.
The Betty Foy went to a nice older couple who had moved from Florida. I was
If you're thinking of replacing the first crank, and are willing to throw
some money at it, White Industries' ENO or VBC cranks, ENO bash guard
chainring may be the ticket. It doesn't come in 40T though.
I have a 1x8 on my Surly commuter with your #2 setup. The crank is a 110/74
triple
My post isn't about the yet-to-be-released Rivendell/Nitto HAR, but about
front low-rider racks in general. This is essentially a PSA.
Now, I know that having a single-sided pannier isn't what the cool kids do;
but I like my single Ortlieb Office Bag for general commuting (laptop,
clothes,
Hey Tony, if you do go 1xN, and your frame has downtube shifter braze-ons
(i.e., not just a cable stop), you can consider putting the lovely Japanese
Crane brass bell on the unused stud. The one with the spring-loaded hammer
will screw on nicely and the bell will cover the ugly bare stud.
--
I can't speak for others, but I only switched to a 1x8 after I noticed I'm
entirely OK with my 3-speed Brompton for commuting purposes. I rarely spin
out my 35x11 (Cat 6 racing, yay!) and I've not met a hill I can't climb
with my 35x32, even with a sometimes heavy load (20 pounds of Lychees,
I know it doesn't fit Hetres. Definitely not the way (skinny tubular) tires
are intended to fit, and also not angled 90°. It may fit Challenge
Parigi-Roubaixs but I haven't tried.
If you have a nice-looking bag/toolkit and a pedal strap, it'll serve as a
conversation piece carrier for those
I've recently decided to buy another frame pump so I don't have to keep
rotating it to the bike I'm riding at the time. Yes, poor me, having more
bikes than frame pumps. However, a quick survey of nearby shops revealed
that Zefal frame pumps are elusive/rare and full-size frame pumps in
On Saturday, July 19, 2014 4:51:22 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
...
As to the original question, yes full size frame pumps of any brand are
hard to find at any shop. It's economics, in order to stock full size
frame pumps the shop will have to stock anywhere from 3 to 7 different
sizes.
If you're going to the trouble of brazing on cantilever bosses, why not
consider brazing on Racer bosses? They're the same exact bosses located
differently. I guess you'll lock yourself into just one single type of
brake and you'll need to buy the stainless sleeves, but I really like the
Racer
On Thursday, July 24, 2014 8:59:52 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
A dissenting opinion: I had a 56 and found the 59 cm top tube too long. If
you have a preferred bar and a preferred bar position with respect to the
saddle, there are limits to adjusting reach by adjusting the stem -- I
As a non-professional wheelbuilder who has nevertheless rode successfully
on many of my own wheels (only one set of 650B wheels though), I would say
no. There's nothing special other than the spoke lengths that are nominally
halfway between 26 and 700c spoke lengths. :)
The lower spoke tension
An easier way is to follow Ryan's method, except measure to the outer
surface of the seat tube and not to the center of the seat tube. That way,
a simple ruler or self-retracting tape measure (best) will suffice and you
don't have to guess where the center of the tube is. Add those numbers,
Has spokes changed that much? According to a chart in Jobst's book, the
yield strength of spokes was something like twice or thrice the tension
typically applied in a normal wheel. The spokes are typically not any
thinner than are currently available to mitigate spoke windup from to low
On Monday, August 11, 2014 12:43:44 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
Question then:
Will stainless steel spokes corrode over time?
The short answer is yes, stainless steel will corrode given the appropriate
environment.
But we're talking about high concentrations of chloride and under acidic
Hi Andrew,
I will take the grab bag of Silca floor pump parts and steel Campy pump
heads for $30, if you can ship them to CA 94087. I will also take the Silca
Impero frame pump w/steel campy head for $20 if you can verify that it is
in good condition and the compressed length is below 52.0 cm
Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a
quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor
tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed much,
I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device
I read a lot about interfere with wireless cyclocomputers from generator
lights but I don't see it. Granted, I only use two wireless systems now
(Cateye and the optional Garmin Speed/Cadence sensor) but across all my
bikes with generator hubs (Schmidt, SP Shimano), I've never had an
? Is it all the time
every where or limited to specific situations?
On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:45:53 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a
quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor
I'm from the San Francisco bay area so I don't know if I have enough
credibility to offer my suggestion. Nevertheless, we do have about a month
or two of cold (almost freezing to high 40°F) rain during the winter months
(or at least expect to have; didn't happen last season). It is also
I'm not sure what this concern is about. 3mm of space between the end of a
bolt and the tire is plenty as it's not zero. The tire's never going to
expand and the crown daruma bolt isn't going to drop. In addition, it is
very unlikely that something's going to get caught at the very narrow
On Thursday, November 20, 2014 10:04:10 AM UTC-8, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
For the price point that has been discussed, it's going to be extremely
hard to beat a 26 Surly LHT, Troll or Ogre.
The LHT rides like an old dog. I know because I ride one regularly as my
commuter/beater. A couple of
That looks like one arm of a fork crown, complete with a possible
threaded 5mm hole for a front rack.
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 9:12:43 AM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
I'm realizing what the most interesting-to-me part of the most recent Blug
post is. It's the graphic just above the plate
Hello!
I have no use for the following tires since I'm entirely and utterly
spoiled by Hetres, so they're free for claiming. You of course assume all
risk with using used tires. I have one each of:
1. Schwalbe Marathon GreenGuard 650Bx42. Looks quite new with molding
whiskers still
Email sent to Michael...
On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 8:19:40 AM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
Bump and price drop
Sackville Slickersack/Platrack Combo - $150 shipped
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 10:06:21 PM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
I have two bags that have seen little use over the
On Sunday, December 21, 2014 3:27:25 AM UTC+8, Lynne Fitz wrote:
This way:
http://lynnerides.blogspot.com/2014/04/technical-aside-calibrating-bike.html
Note that you're using RidewithGPS as the reference. While this is likely
ideal for all cuesheets and distances gleamed from RidewithGPS, I
On Friday, February 6, 2015 at 10:33:13 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
Panniers on the side of the wheel, but hanging from the top of the rack
(imagine side panniers on a Nitto Big Front rack, for example) should feel
more neutral.
I'll like to add that panniers hung on a front rack that is
That was an interesting comment from Will. I guess Sheldon Brown had
outdated data http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/atlantis.html:
Top Tube: True Temper .9-.6-.9, 28.6 (1-1/8)
Down Tube: True Temper Heat Treated .9-.6-.9, 31.8 (1-1.4)
Seat Tube: True Temper .9-.6 Heat Treated
Head Tube: True
At the risk of getting kicked out of this group, I will state that I don't
know why people don't clean their bikes more often. As the saying goes,
cleanliness is next to godliness, and in the case of bikes, being clean
will improve overall operating performance and thus riding satisfaction.
I've warped in my time here, but a good looking bike still looks
good to me dirty. Even unabashed bike aesthete Jan Heine is on record
saying he doesn't bother to clean his tire sidewalls in Seattle.
Best,
joe broach
pdx or
On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 5:35 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA benzo
The Riv catalog had made mention of the heat-treated aluminum Alba bar
being stronger, but it appears that you've considered that and deemed the
CrMo version appropriate for your use. There's of course the risk of rust
but if you spray the insides with something like Boeshield, you should be
at 2:32:04 PM UTC-5, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
The Riv catalog had made mention of the heat-treated aluminum Alba bar
being stronger, but it appears that you've considered that and deemed the
CrMo version appropriate for your use. There's of course the risk of rust
but if you spray
On Friday, March 27, 2015 at 4:28:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
...The worst stuff we came up with was a mix of peroxide, salt and
vinegar
Chlorides under acidic condition is very corrosive. Enough to corrode even
316L stainless steel in fact.
--
You received this message because
Interesting! I've never noticed that with other Rivendells before. In my
experience, these only appear on old mountain bikes, such as my Waterford
lugged mountain bike (model 2400; in clear powder coat so you can actually
see the silver brazing):
On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 8:09:46 AM UTC-7, Steve Cole wrote:
Has anyone heard any rumors about a future Riv being introduced with disc
brakes?
My money is on disc brakes appearing as a drag brake for the Rivendell
tandem, if that ever becomes reality. On singles, it's hard to see anyone
Your current wheels are what I would consider normal wheels, meaning
they're great all-around, but not really optimized for anything in
particular. For me, they are rather heavy-duty in fact, and I have a
similar pair of 559mm wheels that I use for commuting (meaning I don't have
to
I'm a little late to this discussion, but can you please reconcile your
claim about the lack of ability to put out power with BMX sprinting? These
guys generate in excess of 1000 watts and don't have clipless pedals. They
seem to be able to put down plenty of watts with very modest body weight.
Anne,
If you have spare/leftover cotton bar tape, those will also work,
especially as you can easily wrap layers to fit an adaptor-less Ortlieb bag.
However, I've found that the rattling isn't from the top hooks. Because
Ortliebs don't have the traditional elastic strap/hook, they rattle about
On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 2:22:03 PM UTC-7, Evan E. wrote:
Anyone thinking of going to Eroica California? Paso Robles, April 8-10,
2016. As far as I can tell, lugged Rivendells (as keeper of the flame
bikes) qualify if they use non-aero brake levers and downtube shifters or
bar-end
On Monday, May 25, 2015 at 3:46:42 PM UTC-7, Will wrote:
Another option is to use security bolts. This link will have everything
you'd use to secure parts to the frame: stem, racks, brakes, seat post,
seat on post, derailers, etc...
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