[RBW] Re: Drops vs albatross. Easy to swap or do I need two bikes?

[Ginz]

I have a bike that swaps between Nitto Bullmoose and Albatross.  Friction 
shifting and mtb-style brake levers makes the swap very easy.  

Swapping between flat bar brake levers and drop levers is going to be more 
fiddly because you will have to use cable splitters (with mtb levers you 
can just slide the cable head out of the lever via the barrel adjuster's 
slot provided your cable routing and housing length is similar for both 
bars) and you will probably have to adjust the brake cable tension each 
time you swap and make sure your brake pad clearence is good.

>From personal experience, I wouldn't want to swap bars more than once in a 
while unless I really had a space limitation and extra time to plan my 
rides.  But, of course it can be done.

Good Luck!
Ginz

On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 8:24:41 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Let me suggest that you get yourself some albastache bars. I think you 
> would feel comfortable in all of your scenarios with those handlebars. They 
> are the secret weapon in Rivendell's offerings.
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 8:14:04 AM UTC-4 erik.s...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Answering on the practical side (easily swapping handlebars) rather than 
>> the “should I own two bikes” side of things, Russ from Path Less Pedaled 
>> did a video a while back on optimizing 1 bike for easy cockpit swaps. 
>> Basically using a little Jagwire cable splitting doodad so the cables and 
>> housing can mostly stay in place when swapping bars. It makes more sense if 
>> your bike has full-length housing, but there may still be some nuggets in 
>> there that are helpful.
>>
>> https://youtu.be/qj0qOyw_Es8?si=wKDJKxwHhdtKdBg0
>>
>> Could be a good in-between option while you’re building up your second 
>> bike ;)
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 2:23:08 AM UTC-4 Michael wrote:
>>
>>> Looking for a single bike for casual rides on bike 
>>> paths/paved/gravel/dirt roads with the occasional 100 mile ride thrown in. 
>>> Will suggest the Sam Hillborne, which I'm leaning towards. I assumed I 
>>> would build it with drops for the long rides but I recently fell in love 
>>> with albatross bars for upright lazy bike path rides. 
>>> Is there a way to quickly/easily swap handlebars or are two bikes 
>>> inevitable? 
>>> Would a Sam with drops and an appaloosa or atlantis w/ albatross be a 
>>> good combo or is that too much overlap? 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Feeler: ISO extra-small 26er?

[Ginz]

Actually, I was thinking of putting one of these away for my kids. 
Unfortunatley, the 42cm model only fits 26" wheels on the 
dual-pivot/centerbull brake version,  49-57mm reach.  Not the end of the 
world but not at good as canti brakes.


On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 11:21:11 AM UTC-5 Ginz wrote:

> Soma Fab has a 42cm Buena Vista Mixte. I don't think it gets you a MUCH 
> shorter top tube (518mm vs the typical 525mm or 540mm on a 48cm frame) , 
> but it is easier to mount for a smaller rider.
>
> They also go on sale now and then.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I'm thinking about getting a new bike for my wife. Currently, she has a 
>> Trek FX. She likes it a lot, but I can't help but think it doesn't fit her 
>> right. She is 5 feet tall, yet the bike has 700x35 tires. The frame is 
>> small but I think it's crazy to have an extra-small bike with the biggest 
>> wheel size. Google "Trek FX 13 inch" and look at this ridiculously 
>> proportioned bicycle. It looks like a penny-farthing.
>>
>> I think she would be much more comfortable on a steel 26" wheeled bike. I 
>> especially like it because I already own 3 vintage 26" mountain bikes as 
>> parts sources. She has expressed interest in getting a lighter bike, more 
>> roadish, with drop bars. She really likes the color blue, so I want to get 
>> her a blue bike. I spoke with a local custom builder, who loved the idea 
>> and quoted me $1800 for a custom frame. 
>>
>> I've got an eBay notification going for the Surly Long Haul Trucker in 
>> extra-small 42cm. This would check all my boxes. 
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone has experience (or ones they will get rid of 
>> cheap) with the smallest of touring bikes: 
>> Joe Appaloosa in 46cm
>> Atlantis in 47cm?
>> Surly Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker in 42cm
>> Clem Smith / Clementine in 45cm 
>> Buy another old Gary Fisher and add drop bars and call it a day? 
>> Others???
>>
>> I'd even consider a 24" wheeled bike for her. Crust bikes made a 
>> Romanceur in 24". Salsa makes a 24" gravel bike that looks really nice too.
>>
>> If anyone has one we could try, we are in NYC.
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> Michael 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Feeler: ISO extra-small 26er?

[Ginz]

Soma Fab has a 42cm Buena Vista Mixte. I don't think it gets you a MUCH 
shorter top tube (518mm vs the typical 525mm or 540mm on a 48cm frame) , 
but it is easier to mount for a smaller rider.

They also go on sale now and then.



On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm thinking about getting a new bike for my wife. Currently, she has a 
> Trek FX. She likes it a lot, but I can't help but think it doesn't fit her 
> right. She is 5 feet tall, yet the bike has 700x35 tires. The frame is 
> small but I think it's crazy to have an extra-small bike with the biggest 
> wheel size. Google "Trek FX 13 inch" and look at this ridiculously 
> proportioned bicycle. It looks like a penny-farthing.
>
> I think she would be much more comfortable on a steel 26" wheeled bike. I 
> especially like it because I already own 3 vintage 26" mountain bikes as 
> parts sources. She has expressed interest in getting a lighter bike, more 
> roadish, with drop bars. She really likes the color blue, so I want to get 
> her a blue bike. I spoke with a local custom builder, who loved the idea 
> and quoted me $1800 for a custom frame. 
>
> I've got an eBay notification going for the Surly Long Haul Trucker in 
> extra-small 42cm. This would check all my boxes. 
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience (or ones they will get rid of 
> cheap) with the smallest of touring bikes: 
> Joe Appaloosa in 46cm
> Atlantis in 47cm?
> Surly Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker in 42cm
> Clem Smith / Clementine in 45cm 
> Buy another old Gary Fisher and add drop bars and call it a day? 
> Others???
>
> I'd even consider a 24" wheeled bike for her. Crust bikes made a Romanceur 
> in 24". Salsa makes a 24" gravel bike that looks really nice too.
>
> If anyone has one we could try, we are in NYC.
>
> Thanks! 
>
> Michael 
>

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[RBW] Re: Free: Rivendell Reader 42

[Ginz]

Claimed!

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 8:58:13 PM UTC-5 Ginz wrote:

> Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.
>
> I found an extra on my shelf.  
>
> First response takes it, free.
>

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[RBW] Free: Rivendell Reader 42

[Ginz]

Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.

I found an extra on my shelf.  

First response takes it, free.

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[RBW] Re: 1st world commuting dilemma

[Ginz]

ah yes,, the least expensive bike always gets the most use, doesn't it?

If you like the Atlantis and WANT to use it as a commuter, go for it.  
 View it as a personal challenge to beat it up, wear it out and use it up.  
Accept that part of that challenge includes the bike *might* disappear one 
day.  That's just a possibility, not certainty.   However, this is all easy 
for me to say.  I have the same habits you do!

Good luck!
Ginz

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 9:49:30 AM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:

> Hello all. I find myself trying to make a decision regarding which bike to 
> use as my commuter. 
>
> Background: I live in Indianapolis and ride my bike for a good chunk of my 
> daily needs. I have a short commute to work which is done on bike 90% of 
> the time. I usually work from 5:20-ish am to about 6:30 pm 3-4 days a week. 
> The only days I don't ride in are if it's pouring rain when I get up, or 
> the snow is too deep to get through. I could ride in the rain, and don't 
> mind it on the way home, but already get up at 4:30 am and simply don't 
> have time to change or mess with it on work days. I'm commuting on a 
> Rohloff-equipped Surly Ogre currently and have put less than 1K miles on my 
> car this year. We live near downtown and are a short ride to many things 
> that we like to do. We often ride to ball games, art exhibits, concerts, 
> dinners, drinks...you name it.  
>
> Dilemma: Now I warned you that this is a 1st world problem, but here goes. 
> I have several Riv's and they are my favorite bikes to ride but I find 
> myself on the Ogre more often than any other bike. I may accumulate more 
> miles on my Rivs, as I ride a Toyo Atlantis as my all-road bike, but I do 
> way more trips on the Surly. For some reason, I simply feel more 
> comfortable locking up the Surly for 13 hours or outside of a music venue 
> downtown than I do a Rivendell. In my mind, the Riv seems like more of a 
> target for would-be thieves than the Surly and thus it gets most of the 
> day-to-day duty. The thing is that I enjoy riding a Rivendell much more 
> than the Surly and, after giving this some thought, had decided to buy a 
> Clem when this latest batch of completes was released, and start using it 
> for my daily driver. 
>
> However, after doing some math in my head, and realizing that I'd likely 
> change a lot of the Clem complete build, I am thinking that I'd might as 
> well ride one of the Rivs that I currently own. By the time I get the Clem 
> to my door, I've spent $2500 with shipping and tax. I'd change the bars, 
> add a saddle, add fenders, have the front wheel rebuilt with a dyno hub, 
> and so on. I'd easily be into it for $3K or more. My Surly has a $1400 rear 
> hub and is easily over the $3K mark. 
>
> I am lucky enough to have two Rivendell Atlantis and a Hunq. I've owned 
> several others in the past as well. One of the Atlantis bikes that I have 
> would fit the bill. It's the more recent style with the longer wheelbase & 
> double top tube. These are super sturdy bikes that wouldn't mind being 
> loaded up and taken to work. I've already got a wheelset with a dyno hub 
> and a light lying around here somewhere. I purchased this bike for $3K this 
> summer from a local guy. I didn't need the bike but just couldn't pass it 
> up as it was so cool! 
>
> I thought to myself: I've locked up more expensive bikes at work for 13 
> hours or at music venues until the wee hours of the night without issue, so 
> why not just do the bulk of my riding on a bike that I truly enjoy riding? 
> What am I saving it for? 
>
> Questions: Is my logic sound? Do you think that riding a nice Riv to work, 
> to lock it up outside all, day in a city, is a dumb idea? Do you commute on 
> a Riv that is left outside all day? 
>
> *I'd also like to use this as an opportunity to see some of your 
> commuters. Feel free to post a pic of your daily driver and also, let us 
> know if you lock it up outside or not. *
>
> The potential commuter. (I'd change the fenders and bars)
> [image: IMG_0630 Medium.jpeg]
>
> My current all road bike
> [image: IMG_0514 Medium.jpeg]
>
> Not a commuter. I ride this guy around quite a bit though. 
> [image: IMG_0570 Medium.jpeg]
>
> The Surly, although it now has had Jones bars on it for quite some time. 
> [image: IMG_0230 Medium.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] FS: Secuzed Plus Dyno Tail light

[Ginz]

Hello all, 

I have a Secuzed plus dyno tail light FENDER mount that I don't need.  $30 
shipped.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GjcemZL92qoCaJop8

I mounted this on a bike last year and I don't think I ever rode it.  It 
shows no sign of ever leaving my house.  I wasn't pleased with the wiring 
route under my fender and I gave up and went with a stay mounted light.

Message me directly.

Thanks,
Ginz


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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Laing,

Very interesting!  Maybe those Dia Compe's covered with some ESI silicone 
tape or similar.

Are they hard plastic? Soft?  

Thanks,
Ginz

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:36:04 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be 
> used for shifters. I have even mounted grips over them for even more 
> diameter and cushion.
> [image: DC188-GRIP-BR-575x380.jpg]
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:29:28 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters 
>> on the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
>> shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.
>>
>> I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over 
>> the cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips 
>>> and the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to 
>>> make a change. Need more squish.
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey Ginz,
>>>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and 
>>>> really like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially 
>>>> with your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that 
>>>> explains it very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently 
>>>> running bar ends and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them 
>>>> back. I also run ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>>>> Shifters. 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE 
>>>>>> with the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>>>>>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>>>>>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I 
>>>>>> channeled 
>>>>>> myself (which is a pain)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  
>>>>>> It might be time for a change.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm thinking about:
>>>>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>>>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>>>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>>>>>> that 
>>>>>> works for me?!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>>>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
>>>>>> on 
>>>>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
>>>>>> and 
>>>>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ginz
>>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters on 
the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.

I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over the 
cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
> the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
> a change. Need more squish.
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Ginz,
>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
>> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
>> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
>> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
>> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
>> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>> Shifters. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>>
>>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>>>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>>>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled 
>>>> myself (which is a pain)
>>>>
>>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>>> might be time for a change.
>>>>
>>>> I'm thinking about:
>>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>>
>>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>>>> that 
>>>> works for me?!
>>>>
>>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
>>>> on 
>>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
>>>> and 
>>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>>
>>>> Ginz
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
a change. Need more squish.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Hi Garth,

I'm thinking of thumbies down by the grip.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with the 
thumb pods on the Albatross?  

Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
a pain)

The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
might be time for a change.

I'm thinking about:
Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons

I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
works for me?!

I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...

Thanks for any thoughts!

Ginz

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Re: [RBW] Do you Rapid Rise? (Share pics and thoughts)

[Ginz]

I have always done rapid rise and I find that it provides the most benefit 
with indexed shifting.  Beware of switching to rapid rise later in life.  
You may be permanently confused  about which way to shift, whether you use 
STI, rapid fire, grip shift, or thumbies.  With bar ends or any friction 
setup, I find I can adapt easily between rapid and non-rapid rise for some 
reason.  



On Tuesday, August 23, 2022 at 10:04:51 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> Ha! Yeah I'm a little excessive with my cable run, its been a minute since 
> I set this up. Haven't gotten caught on anything yet! 
>
> as far as the cassette goes, its a 9 spd shimano xt, 11-34/36 (can't 
> remember exactly how big it is and I'm away from the bike, but in the 30's 
> somewhere... I wanna say its the 36). I'm probably maxing out what the 
> derailer is capable of in terms of size, I remember being a little 
> concerned if it would work when I first put it on but its been smooth and 
> no problems. 
>
> Also on the front end I'm using the riv silver jis square taper wide/low 
> (38/24) double crankset, which I've been very pleased with as well both 
> aesthetically and functionally. 
>
> -Stephen
> On Tuesday, August 23, 2022 at 7:47:00 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Stephen, that's the same XTR I had and parted with. What size is your 
>> cassette? 
>>
>> I agree, my first ride with the rapid rise was not a religious 
>> experience. 
>>
>> I think you can run a shorter piece of housing back there. I believe the 
>> pivoting cable stop that feeds the cable pulley is designed to minimize the 
>> run of cable and housing over the dropout. Eben Weiss/Bike Snob has the 
>> same derailer as yours and posted something about running a longer, then 
>> shorter piece of housing but now I can't find it. I did find a picture, 
>> though. 
>>
>> [image: Screen Shot 2022-08-23 at 7.35.14 AM.png]
>> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 9:49:29 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2022-08-22 at 9.41.11 PM.png]
>>> I got this xtr at a swap meet last year and have been a big fan. Before 
>>> I was running a deore like the one in russ' video. This is on my 2020 
>>> appaloosa with riversed silver thumbie shifters currently set up on 
>>> bullmooses but I also swap out to loscos sometimes. I'm a big fan of it, 
>>> though I'd agree with path less pedaled in saying its not mind blowing. I 
>>> think it shifts great, I love the style of this era xtr. Haven't noticed 
>>> any issues yet in terms of the spring not giving a snappy enough shift, but 
>>> I definitely have had the beneficial ghost shift going uphill in the 
>>> mountains since installing.
>>>
>>> Stephen
>>> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 9:20:47 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 JJ thanks for sharing your experiences across several RR mechs, that's 
 a lot of sampling. Sounds like you've found cage movement that works for 
 you! Dig the pic as well, thank you. I agree the red decal is a bit much. 
 Perhaps I'll scrape it off. 

 Johnny, thanks for the link, that is an in-depth look at derailers I'd 
 kind of forgotten about. It's a long one so here are some tidbits about 
 cost and arrival, which I'm sure will change:

 *6. How much will it cost?*

 a. We don't know. Ideally we'll have a fancy first model, the SILVER 
 OM-1; and then cheaper other models, maybe OM-2, OM-3. Maybe $300 for a 
 fancy, and $30 for a plain? We have zero idea, but a derailer too 
 expensive 
 to buy is no fun and misses the point; and a super cheap derailer that 
 doesn't account for the cost of developing and making it is ... not gonna 
 happen. We'll just see.

 *11. When?*

 a. We're hoping the fancy by Spring 2023, and the plain by Fall 2023.

 On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 8:00:40 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Riv is indeed making different tiers. I believe Grant said he wanted 
> the top level to be around $300 but a plain jane low level version for 
> something like $30.
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/late-may-silver-is-a-bugger-and-the-last-good-looking-rear-derailer
>
> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 7:40:55 PM UTC-4 J J wrote:
>
>> I've been exclusively running low normal for a few years. Here's a 
>> pic of the XT M770 on my Hunqapillar. When I first started using Rapid 
>> Rise 
>> I had a few muscle memory misfires (getting the opposite of what I 
>> wanted 
>> when I moved the shift lever). It lasted a couple of weeks, but then it 
>> was 
>> like a flipping a switch in my brain and motor coordination. The logic 
>> just 
>> made so much sense, especially the consistency in left and right 
>> shifting, 
>> easier in one direction, harder in the other, on both sides. I run them 
>> with friction shifters only. It's like second nature.
>>
>> I've tried XTR 970, 960, 950 

[RBW] Re: Supernova E3 pro2...but dont want to run the rear light?

[Ginz]

Coil up the extra wire, zip tie it to the other wire, anything it takes to 
just hide it.  And, like the others said, tape the two conductors so they 
cannot ever touch each other.

You never know if you'll want to use it in the future.  Maybe you won't 
like the light and want to sell it. Or, maybe you'll decide to run a rear 
light because they barely weigh anything!

I have the original E3 and my only complaint is that they don't have a 
fender mounted tail light.  I thought I saw a fender mount accessory at 
some point but I could never find it again. Maybe I imagined it.

On Tuesday, June 21, 2022 at 2:38:08 PM UTC-4 Pam Bikes wrote:

> I'm not sure why you don't want to wire the rear taillight.  Super easy.  
> Takes 5 min and some zip ties.  I love it.  Never have to worry about any 
> lights or recharging.  I run the wire along the underside of the frame and 
> up the rack.  You never see it.  I'm not mechanically inclined and I can do 
> it.  So you can too.  Always on too so I'll never forget to turn it on or 
> off.  But whatever makes you happy.  
>
> On Sunday, June 19, 2022 at 8:30:45 PM UTC-4 Erik Wright wrote:
>
>> Same thing over here. I picked up the same light off this list about a 
>> month back. I took it down to a shop to wire it up and the mechanics just 
>> wrapped the rear wire around the light mount a bunch and threw a zip tie on 
>> there to hold it in place. Seems to be doing the trick just fine for me.
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>> On Saturday, June 18, 2022 at 5:46:15 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:
>>
>>> Just insulate the taillight connections with tape (or better 
>>> heat-shrink) so that the connections don't make contact with each other or 
>>> the frame. Then just connect the front light in the normal way and you are 
>>> ready to go.
>>>
>>> If you were running an incandescent bulb headlight, there could be a 
>>> concern that the headlight could receive too much voltage with no taillight 
>>> wired in. With modern LED headlights, this is not a concern.
>>>
>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 18, 2022 at 1:51:55 PM UTC-6 jinxed wrote:
>>>
 Lighting is one area that completely baffles me. Well, anything 
 involving electricity for that matter, so I generally rely on those with 
 more experience lest I end up cooking myself or the electronics.

 Here's what I have on hand to work with. SP SV-8 front hub, Supernova 
 E3 2 pro front light, Nitto rack or equivalent, rechargeable rear LED of 
 some sort. Fork has provisions for internal wiring hub to light, frame has 
 no considerations.

 Most of my riding is during daylight. When I need a light, it will 
 primarily be off road and for purposes of seeing, not being seen. I have 
 several extremely capable rechargeable rear lights for use when needed, so 
 I don't want to permanently route cables to the back of the bike. That 
 said, the E3 light has dedicated rear wiring I need to deal with. Can the 
 rear wires be "unplugged" or are they soldered in? I don't want to ruin 
 the 
 light by clipping them off. I know they're not absolutely needed for the 
 front to operate since I've never had a rear light attached and it worked 
 great.

 Any better wisdom on dealing with the wiring? Am I better off ditching 
 the E3 and going with a "simpler" front only model? If that's the case, 
 any 
 recommendations for something that would suit the need, preferably in 
 silver?




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[RBW] FS: Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 8cm

[Ginz]

Hello,

I have a new in the sealed bag Nitto Dirt Drop stem, 8cm, 26.0.

Bought it from Rivendell last year and never used it.

$68 shipped in CONUS. 

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Re: [RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Drew,

Could I trouble you for a measurement on the T-Rack?  From the eyelet on 
the bottom of the say to the center of the upper stay?  Said, differently, 
how far below the rack deck is the eyelet on the upper stays?  I'm trying 
to figure out if the 355mm version would allow the upper stays to hit the 
bosses on the fork crown properly or if they would be too low.  Too high is 
ok, i can bend them.  Too low could be a problem.  

Thanks!



On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 11:51:44 AM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> I have a t-rack on the front of my 650b Atlantis, attached to the top of 
> the fork crown. no issues setting it up and a really great rack. You'll 
> need to bend the bottom a little bit or use some spacers, but its not a big 
> deal. I have basket on mine and then use the mounts for touring. I think it 
> really splits the difference between minimal and super functional in the 
> smartest way possible.  
>
> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 7:37:12 AM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> FYI:  I was fortunate to purchase and receive a Tumbleweed Mini Pannier 
>> Rack recently.  Included *with *the rack was a very nice set of mounting 
>> hardware which included very nice black alloy spacers (Six total -   4 x 
>> 2.5mm thick and 2 x 5mm thick).  I mounted my rack on the rear of my bike, 
>> but I can see where one may choose to use the spacers to mount it on the 
>> front, reducing the *squeeze* on the rack legs / dropout interface.
>>
>> Daniel really thought things out and I am very impressed with the quality 
>> / features of the rack along with the included hardware.  One last detail: 
>> from the pictures on his website, one could see that the Mini Pannier Rack 
>> does have a lighting tang.  I couldn't tell if the tang has a single hole 
>> or two holes for a two-bolt Busch & Muller rear LED tail light (such as the 
>> Toplight Line).  I can confirm yes, it indeed does and it is properly 
>> spaced for a perfect fit [when will NItto include this feature on their 
>> racks?].
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 6:08:51 AM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I hadn't considered the spacing.
>>>
>>> I'm trying to find something minimal for the front of the bike that:
>>> Doesn't interfere with the first crown (I'm using the Tektro cable 
>>> hander), and
>>> Doesn't use draw bolts on the vertical stays (just my preference).
>>>
>>> If the Tumbleweeds come back in stock, I may give it a go.
>>>
>>> Best Regards,
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 6:01:18 PM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just keep in mind you'd have to bend the rack to fit the 100mm+ 
>>>> dropouts rather than the 135mm+ drop outs in the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Collin in, its smoky again, Sacramento
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 10:43:01 AM UTC-7 joshm...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Eric,
>>>>>
>>>>> I emailed Daniel that same question and this was his response: 
>>>>>
>>>>> "You should have no problem with clearance above your tire, but 
>>>>> there’s no real downside to having the rack that’s a little tall other 
>>>>> than 
>>>>> aesthetics. The difference between the two rack sizes is only about an 
>>>>> inch, we mainly do the two sizes to accommodate bikes with big wheels and 
>>>>> low rack mounts where there might be clearance issues with the tire. "
>>>>>
>>>>> Regarding the says, I trimmed mine and it looks great. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Josh in NYC
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 12:52 PM Ginz  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm 
>>>>>> deck height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on 
>>>>>> top 
>>>>>> of the fork crown?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays 
>>>>>> might be required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be 
>>>>>> at 
>>>>>> the right height.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something new.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks f

Re: [RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Thanks, I hadn't considered the spacing.

I'm trying to find something minimal for the front of the bike that:
Doesn't interfere with the first crown (I'm using the Tektro cable 
hander), and
Doesn't use draw bolts on the vertical stays (just my preference).

If the Tumbleweeds come back in stock, I may give it a go.

Best Regards,
Eric


On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 6:01:18 PM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:

> Just keep in mind you'd have to bend the rack to fit the 100mm+ dropouts 
> rather than the 135mm+ drop outs in the rear.
>
> Collin in, its smoky again, Sacramento
>
> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 10:43:01 AM UTC-7 joshm...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Eric,
>>
>> I emailed Daniel that same question and this was his response: 
>>
>> "You should have no problem with clearance above your tire, but there’s 
>> no real downside to having the rack that’s a little tall other than 
>> aesthetics. The difference between the two rack sizes is only about an 
>> inch, we mainly do the two sizes to accommodate bikes with big wheels and 
>> low rack mounts where there might be clearance issues with the tire. "
>>
>> Regarding the says, I trimmed mine and it looks great. 
>>
>> Josh in NYC
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 12:52 PM Ginz  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm 
>>> deck height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on top 
>>> of the fork crown?
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays might 
>>> be required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be at the 
>>> right height.
>>>
>>> I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something new.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/28af37ce-b13b-4f43-ace9-e9c855c17a4en%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/28af37ce-b13b-4f43-ace9-e9c855c17a4en%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Hello,

Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm deck 
height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on top of 
the fork crown?

I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays might be 
required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be at the right 
height.

I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something new.

Thanks for any advice.

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Rapid rise polarizing

[Ginz]

I have and still use rapid rise on several bikes.  I thought the 
"disadvantage" was that up-shifts were slower.  From a race and performance 
point of view, up-shifts should be faster.  You need to be able to shift up 
while you hammer.

I finally gave in and put a 2x10 on my hardtail and the rapid rise went 
bye-bye.  To this day, I am still confused when I shift.

Aside from that, it's a tough change to get one's mind around.  It would be 
like telling everyone to swap their brakes left and right -- worse 
actually.  I think it comes down to "why change."



On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 11:39:34 AM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:

> I'd imagine everyone's experience is slightly different...but I quite like 
> my RR XTR RD mounted on my appaloosa to bar end silver2 shifters. I got a 
> used one on ebay in the before times for a fair price and with a replaced 
> set of jockey/pulley wheels its been fine for about 1000 km.
>
> I've only been friction/bar end shifting for about 5 years now, so I don't 
> have decades of muscle memory to rewrite, but it is quite intuitive to 
> me...at least it is when you also have a FD, so to go up a gear the bar 
> ends get pushed in the same direction.
>
> I've also noticed its a wee bit easier to shift down under a bit of load 
> and the derailleur tends to land better (i.e. less precision needed in the 
> shift) in those events. But that's all perception and cannot be quantified, 
> so take it with a grain of salt. 
>
> Cheers, 
> Collin, its only 90 today, in Sacramento
>
> On Monday, July 12, 2021 at 10:08:30 PM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, 
>> Why is there so little info on rapid rise RD and why is it so polarizing. 
>> Sources include bike snob grants blog and random internet sources. 
>> Takeaways were finicky and needing frequent adjustment but also great 
>> concept and easy down shifting. Any experience thoughts insights? 
>>
>> Thanks
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus owners - what would you mount to the top of the fork blades

[Ginz]

A Nitto Mark's rack can be situated so that offset stays are parallel to 
the ground and bolted to the top of the fork crown.  I tried it once and it 
made the rack ride very high.

I'm not sure what else can be done, but those bosses have been on forks for 
quite a few years now.

On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:15:28 AM UTC-4 Jay LePree wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I am super impressed with the Platypus.  An extra nod to Analogue cycles 
> who selected/recommended the parts and did an excellent job building it up 
> for me.  Analoque is a top notch dealer. 
>
> I had a question.  What accessories would mount to the top of the fork 
> blades?  (I have M5 allan nuts in holes now.) 
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay 
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: seatstay-sized nitro p clamp.

[Ginz]

I have a pair of 3/4" but I think that's too big unless your stays are 
big.  If not, let me know.

On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 12:16:26 PM UTC-4 S. Greco wrote:

> Mc-Master Carr is the best source for stuff like this. They have just 
> about any size, and you can get them in stainless as well:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/p-clamps/
>
> On Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 7:53:54 PM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> Sorry for the typos. Mobile. NITTO*
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 5:53:04 PM UTC-6 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> If anyone's got one they'd care to sell me I'm in the need for one to 
>>> make a diy frame pump peg. Cheers! 
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adapters to make SPD pedals into clip and strap pedals?

[Ginz]

Ok, I should have researched first.I cannot comment on the "SPD" 
pedal.  My feedback would only related to "Step-In A" pedal that Rene Herse 
does not carry!





On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 10:15:41 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda combination for a while.  These 
> are my thoughts:
>
> I really did not like the Step-in B pedals.  I am a Time ATAC lover and 
> that fact that the MKS used the same cleats was a huge plus.  However, I 
> found the break-in period for the Step-in B pedals was incredibly long.  I 
> messed with the spring tension.  I was using well broken in cleats.  But it 
> took a long, long time before the the clip-in was smooth.  At the 
> beginning, I had to jam my foot down, forward, backward, every which way to 
> engage the cleat.   Once that issue resolved itself over ~20 rides, they 
> were better.  But my goal was to swap between mtb'y pedals and flat 
> pedals.  On the trail, the engagement was no where near as nice as my Time 
> ATAC.  So, I just gave up and sold the setup.
>
> That said, if your goal is to ride roads and occasionally swap pedals, its 
> fine.  Maybe not perfect, but fine.   One thing you can do is find the 
> discontinued Non-Ezy version of the MKS Step-in B pedals for cheap on eBay 
> and try them out.  Actually, I may have a set missing the dust cap if you 
> are interested (I bought them for parts).
>
> I wish they had partnered with Time and made the basic ATAC pedal with the 
> MKS Ezy Superior Axle.  I would have kept that setup forever.
>
> On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 2:55:09 AM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:
>
>> Not sure about the SPD quality difference. Also, I realized the SPD rinko 
>> system might use different adapters. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 8:32:31 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks; I've thought of these. Questions: Does the system materially 
>>> increase Q? Is the MKS spd pedal anywhere near as good as mid and upper 
>>> level Shimano SPDs -- PD540, XT, XTR?
>>>
>>> Actually, ~$275 for MKS SPDs and Urbans and shipping isn't too bad, but 
>>> only if the MKS spds are good pedals.
>>>
>>> Thanks again!
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 3:10 PM exliontamer  wrote:
>>>
>>>> These rink systems work and are pretty sick, they're just expensive. 
>>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/pedals/
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 3:50:33 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Is there any well made, well functioning adapter to make an SPD pedal 
>>>>> into a platform that will take a standard Christophe clip? Rather than 
>>>>> swapping out my SPDs for quills, this might be the best solution for 
>>>>> merely 
>>>>> occasional street shoe riding.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/27e254cb-ecd6-43fa-b974-0439d231b078n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/27e254cb-ecd6-43fa-b974-0439d231b078n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adapters to make SPD pedals into clip and strap pedals?

[Ginz]

I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda combination for a while.  These 
are my thoughts:

I really did not like the Step-in B pedals.  I am a Time ATAC lover and 
that fact that the MKS used the same cleats was a huge plus.  However, I 
found the break-in period for the Step-in B pedals was incredibly long.  I 
messed with the spring tension.  I was using well broken in cleats.  But it 
took a long, long time before the the clip-in was smooth.  At the 
beginning, I had to jam my foot down, forward, backward, every which way to 
engage the cleat.   Once that issue resolved itself over ~20 rides, they 
were better.  But my goal was to swap between mtb'y pedals and flat 
pedals.  On the trail, the engagement was no where near as nice as my Time 
ATAC.  So, I just gave up and sold the setup.

That said, if your goal is to ride roads and occasionally swap pedals, its 
fine.  Maybe not perfect, but fine.   One thing you can do is find the 
discontinued Non-Ezy version of the MKS Step-in B pedals for cheap on eBay 
and try them out.  Actually, I may have a set missing the dust cap if you 
are interested (I bought them for parts).

I wish they had partnered with Time and made the basic ATAC pedal with the 
MKS Ezy Superior Axle.  I would have kept that setup forever.

On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 2:55:09 AM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:

> Not sure about the SPD quality difference. Also, I realized the SPD rinko 
> system might use different adapters. 
>
> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 8:32:31 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks; I've thought of these. Questions: Does the system materially 
>> increase Q? Is the MKS spd pedal anywhere near as good as mid and upper 
>> level Shimano SPDs -- PD540, XT, XTR?
>>
>> Actually, ~$275 for MKS SPDs and Urbans and shipping isn't too bad, but 
>> only if the MKS spds are good pedals.
>>
>> Thanks again!
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 3:10 PM exliontamer  wrote:
>>
>>> These rink systems work and are pretty sick, they're just expensive. 
>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/pedals/
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 3:50:33 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Is there any well made, well functioning adapter to make an SPD pedal 
 into a platform that will take a standard Christophe clip? Rather than 
 swapping out my SPDs for quills, this might be the best solution for 
 merely 
 occasional street shoe riding.

 Thanks.


 -- 

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FOR SALE : SOMA BUENA VISTA

[Ginz]

What size a’person do you suspect that’s right for? I have trouble telling with 
these mixtes. 

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Ginz]

Which hubs? ;)

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[RBW] What riv dealers are holding frames?

[Ginz]

Analog has a used 55cm Sam Hilborne complete.  I just happened to be looking at 
it. 

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[Ginz]

Can the Appaoosa give you 2.1" tires plus fenders?  Or do you need an 
Atlantis for that?   The biggest question is can you setup one bike with 
both Albatross and drops and be happy? Will have to do the zero CM stem 
thing and will you be happy with that?

If you can be ok with the 47mm tires, I'd keep the Redwood and get the bars 
you like. 

Maybe pick the one bike, set it up how you want it and see how long the 
honeymoon lasts?  In other words, don't sell unless you've really tested 
your decision for a good while.
I, too, have a bit of identity crises among my bikes and am trying to 
figure it out.

Ginz

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:59:32 PM UTC-4 David B wrote:

> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
> bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
> don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.
>
> With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
> Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
> Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
> setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
> angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).
>
> I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
> 'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
> I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
> I'll be keeping.
>
> I see potential options as:
> 1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
> 2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
> 3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
> 4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
> 5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes
>
> Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the 
> Redwood it'll not be a bargain sale.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
> ~94pbh.
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] Re: Brake levers for setting up Canti front and V for rear wheel

[Ginz]

If you are are riding really rocky, rooty, steep trails where rear brake is 
primary, then I can certainly understand v brake on the rear. (On my Small 
Hunqapillar, the rear cable stop is in such a tight spot I gave up and put v 
brake on). 

Now, on the front, my hunqapillar has terrible shutter. I tried  various 
things. The only thing that worked was the tektro crown-mounted stop. So, I’m 
using a canti in the front. 

I have mismatched levers and two bar setups with cable breakers. So— I set up 
albatross one way and bullmoose the other. This only works because I like 
right-front braking for road riding.  The tektro levers someone mentioned would 
solve this problem!

Short story is sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I’d much prefer both v 
brakes or both cantis.

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[RBW] Re: A different Mustache/Albastache set-up?

[Ginz]

You can use Velo orange city levers. 

https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/city-bike-brakes-levers

Inverse levers would also work if you aren’t using bar end shifters. 

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Re: [RBW] Was the Hunqapillar designed for Albatross bars?

[Ginz]

My recollection is that Hunqapillar top tubes were relatively longer and were 
more for bullmoose and albatross than drop bars.   This was long before the 
super long tubes and super long sweep bars. 

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake recommendations

[Ginz]

Shimano cx-50. 

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

[Ginz]

Amazing Goop “houshold” aka “household hogar”.  It is Contact cement. Cork 
breaks up as you remove it but not terribly so. Heat gun would probably help. 

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[RBW] Re: Bar End Shifter Woes

[Ginz]

I ruined a Silver shifter by removing it while the cable was still on. I got 
away with it a few times but eventually the cover of a ratchet mechanism bent 
and it was toast. If I have to remove one I now always unbolt the cable clamp 
at the derailleur. 

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[RBW] Tubus Duo on Hunqapillar Fork

[Ginz]

Hi Folks,

Has anyone fit a Tubus Duo on a Hunqapillar 26" fork or similar?  All the 
eyelets and hourglass bosses are in the right place but some spacers would 
be required. Otherwise, the flanges on the rack push against the fork blade 
and could marr or "crush" the tubes.  I would estimate the spacers would 
have to be 2-3mm at all three bolt locations.

Does that seem advisable?  The was some recent discussion of this in the 
forums and I wouldn't hesitate to run a few spacers.  But, I may be unwise.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WnQDYDUM6SrXjWSc8


Best Regards,
ginz

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thoughts on Rivendell cork grips

[Ginz]

 
I would not say the cork grips add comfort.  In fact, I've found the "real" 
cork ones to be less shaped and comfortable than the cheaper "chopped and 
formed" ones than are available everywhere.  And I never ever ride them 
without gloves for grip.

As others have said, ESI silicone grips and Oury (now in lock on version!!) 
are my choices for comfort.  The cork is mostly for looks. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Front Rack for Wald Basket

[Ginz]

Check the iBob group if you are on it. There is the exact same thread running 
this week and someone is selling a few options!

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Brown v. Black

[Ginz]

I like black with that frame color.

On Tuesday, June 23, 2020 at 9:14:16 AM UTC-4 Will Ashe wrote:

>
>
>
> Plus 1 on the black. It's a nice contrast with the butternut/mustard frame.
>>
>>
> Will Ashe 
>

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[RBW] Re: Velocity Dyads and 50mm Tires

[Ginz]

For the longest time, the average mtb rim was 18mm.  People ran 2.1" 
knobbies.  Nowadays it sounds like you need a 23mm rim to run a 2" commuter 
tire.  Are things changing?  Were they always wrong?  I dunno!

I have one set of wide-ish rims -- Rhyno Lites.  They have Big Apple 2.35" 
tires on them.  I don't notice much of a difference.  Oh well!

I thought about running 2.5" tires but wondered what incredibly wide rims 
I'd need to do it!

Ginz


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[RBW] Re: bending nitto struts

[Ginz]

I think they show putting them in a vice, covering them with a cloth or 
block of wood and tapping them with a mallet.

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Tension Bolt on B17

[Ginz]

Try these folks.  If that part is easily replaceable, they may ship it to 
you.  

https://www.transportcycle.com/frame-shop/brooks-saddle-repair/

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[RBW] Re: Commuter Tire for Hunq

[Ginz]

I just mounted a set of Marathon Green Guard 26" x 2" on Sun CR-18 rims and 
they and they measure a disappointing 1.75", barely larger than my labeled 
26" x 1.75"s.  

I may sell them (mounted but unridden).  Maybe I should have gone Big Apple 
2" or 2.15"?

That said, I would look at the true specs of the Marathons and make sure 
you are getting the actual size you desire relative to the Big Bens.

Ginz

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Re: [RBW] FS: 26" Wheelset - Lesnik built $275 plus lot so new tires.

[Ginz]

What 26” tires to you have? I just ordered a set of marathon plus 2.0”. 

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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Ginz]

I think you'd be better off not re-spacing the frame.

The crankset and BB you have, do you know what chainline you get with that 
bottom bracket?  You may have to install it and find out.  I'm guessing 
somewhere around 45mm but 110mm BB sounds wide for a Campy crankset (to 
me).  Trying to achieve that chainline with a 120mm fixed/free hub is tough 
because those hubs are usually a 42mm chainline.That may not seem like 
a big difference, but with fixed chair and a taught chain, it can be a big 
deal.  Since you have an awfully nice crankset and BB, figure out what you 
chainline is (to the inner and outer chainrings, and the center line, if 
possible) and come back with that info.

>From there, the best type of hub can be identified.

If you don't care about fixed gear and just want one singlespeed gear, then 
any 130mm freehub with the cog and spacer kit you mentioned would be very 
good and you could dial in the chainline using the inner or outer chainring 
as you prefer.

Gearing may take some experimentation.  You'd try one ratio, then something 
else, then maybe go back to the original one.  Something like 46/18 might 
be a good start.  I like around 67 gear inches for fixed gear on road.
YMMV.

Ginz


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[RBW] Silver shifter upkeep

[Ginz]

I once destroyed one by sneaking the shifter off without loosening the cable 
when swapping brake levers. The metal plate that covers the ratchet came loose 
and it was ruined.  Is that what’s happening in there? They don’t necessarily 
last forever, unfortunately

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[RBW] Re: Re-spacing a Phil Wood hub, 126-135

[Ginz]

I went from 130 to 135 and recall I did have to redish a little bit because 
they only replace one cap in this scenario. I don’t remember which side. 

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[RBW] Re: Re-spacing a Phil Wood hub, 126-135

[Ginz]

I also did this but my hub was older and didn't have the field serviceable 
axel.  I mailed it in and they switched the end caps with a press.  Cost me 
not a ton of money, but I don't recall how much.  Email their customer 
service and I bet they can get you set up.


>

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe’s Big Apple is a 10-year old tire design. What’s a newer/better alternative?

[Ginz]

I can say that the tread pattern on my 26x2.35" is different on the one I 
just purchased vs. the one that is 5-8 years old. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB English Rain coat

[Ginz]

For those with the double ventile greenspot, do reserve that for colder 
weather? I generally like to layer under my jacket and use a thinner jacket. I 
almost worry the single greenspot will be too heavy for me, but I guess I have 
thinner jacket for warmer weather. 

I have a ventile dress raincoat so I am somewhat familiar with it.  


Thanks
Eric

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[RBW] Tall Arm V-Brakes

[Ginz]

I don’t know of any taller V brakes. This is a well known problem with that 
style rack. I recommend Shimano CX cantis for this situation.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Ginz]

For an over-nighter, I usually do two rear panniers and something in the 
front -- usually a basket or I strap a something to the bars.  

It's nice to have more capacity than you need because you don't have to be 
so fussy with packing.  Throw stuff in the bike and go!  If packing is too 
tedious for one night, I tend to feel exhausted before I even leave the 
house.  


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[RBW] FS: Bike Buddy bottle mount

[Ginz]

Here's a blast from the past.

Bike Buddy allows one to mount a large bottle, vacuum bottle, etc to your 
frame's existing bottle mount. If you dislike the look of Voile straps, 
this is for you.

https://www.bikebuddy.co.uk/shop.asp

This is the MK3 version which includes the quick release feature.I may 
have test fit it but never rode with it, Not even once.

$15 shipped in USA.  


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[RBW] For salvage sale, Ibis Cousin IT tandem

[Ginz]

Bilenky, but he is in Pennsylvania and you are in California so that’s not 
ideal. 

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[RBW] Re: Long shot desperately seeking 56 cm saluki.

[Ginz]

Wow, how about that. 

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[RBW] Re: FFS: Rivendell readers

[Ginz]

On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 8:07:43 PM UTC-4, Michael Baquerizo wrote:
> me please! if you don't mind.
> 
> 
> Feel free to PM
> 
> On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 4:24:43 PM UTC-4, Ginz wrote:Issues 42, 27 29
> Somehow I have duplicates. Will send via cheapest usps method. 
> Email directly. Thanks.

They are yours. What’s your address?

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[RBW] FFS: Rivendell readers

[Ginz]

Issues 42, 27 29

Somehow I have duplicates. Will send via cheapest usps method. 

Email directly. Thanks. 

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[RBW] FFS: Rivendell readers

[Ginz]

FFS = free for shipping. 

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Budget Triple Crankset

[Ginz]

I listed a Sugino XD triple 170mm but had no takers. Used but fine. Some shoe 
rub. I bought it from another member. 

Arms no rings. 

It would cheap. Contact me if interested. 

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[RBW] Advice Sought on Hubs and Rim Choice

[Ginz]

Remember that Phil wood is not going to be a reduction in weight!

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Re: [RBW] OT: non-bike hobbies

[Ginz]

Shortwave radio listening, scanner monitoring, and a tiny bit of Amateur radio, 
but not much. 

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[RBW] FS: Snow Peak Ti French Press

[Ginz]

Snowpeak Titantium French Press.  

Used on maybe three overnight trips.  Clean except for a tiny bit of coffee 
oil and the typical discoloration from an alcohol stove.  No dents or like 
that.  You'll be happy with it.  I'm going back to a drip cone.

Figure $36 shipped.  It's Ti, so shipping should be cheap, right??

Thanks,
Eric



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[RBW] Re: Cheviot Wool Sweater Preorder - Anyone In?

[Ginz]

Tell me it’s the derby vest pattern and I’m in. :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cheviot Wool Sweater Preorder - Anyone In?

[Ginz]

STILL wish I had bought the derby tweed sweater when I had the chance.

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[RBW] Re: Capricorn by Brad Wilson

[Ginz]

Best of luck with the sale.  It's a nice one.  
>
>
Fellow Capricorn owner here...

Ginz

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[RBW] Which Rivendell frame would you resurrect?

[Ginz]

Saluki with brazed ok center pulls (did that exist or did I imagine it?). And 
was it 26” wheels? If yes, then that. 

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[RBW] Re: Carrying Water on bikes w/ minimal bottle cage mounts

[Ginz]

How about a dromedary bag stored in your saddle bag and used to refill your 
bottle?  At least it is light weight, conforms to the bag and will not leak.


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[RBW] WTB: Riv parts for a Sam Hillborne build

[Ginz]

Eric, I have sugino XD triple arms in 170mm. Not the most pristine example but 
solid. 

Let me know if interested. 

From,
Another Eric G. 

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Re: [RBW] FS: 47cm Roadini complete

[Ginz]

Laing,

Congrats on getting married. Curious to see what other small sized 
Rivendells are in that garage

Gizn

>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Grinder Question

[Ginz]

For home grinding where the consistency matters, like with a French Press, 
I use  a Zassenhaus mill.  For pour over with a filter, I usually let the 
small electric mill do the work quickly.  I don't see how heat build up is 
a huge issue but if I were in a laboratory environment with $30/lb beans, I 
wouldn't leave it to chance.  Mainly, the Zassenhaus mill is just 
satisfying to use as a tool, if you have the time to spare.


>>

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Grinder Question

[Ginz]

Are we grinding on the road or at home? I assume the road, as there are larger 
manual grinders for home. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Work Stand Suggestions

[Ginz]

I’m debating a bench mounted clamp and putting my PCS in the closet as backup. 
But it seems like getting to the far side of the bike against a work bench, 
even a narrow bench, would be a pain. Fine for a quick chain lube or der 
adjustment. But installing a BB, pedals, adjusting brake pads I’m not sure. 

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[RBW] Re: Work Stand Suggestions

[Ginz]

The Park PCS 4-1, 4-2 and PCS-10 are more than adequate.  I've been using 
an older PCS for years and years.  The new ones have more stable legs which 
look good to me.

If you are patient, you can find the professional stands on Cragslist with 
an extremely heavy base at a reasonable price.  The downside is that you 
can't move it easily.  

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[RBW] Things I wish Rivendell still sold..

[Ginz]

It’s a good thread even after six years. I always regret not getting a derby 
tweed vest. I thought I read about a revival not too long ago. Given fall is 
upon us, my guess is not this year. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless versus threaded stems -- convenience summary

[Ginz]

But realizing that I did not comment on convenience, I will do that now.  
When you have a frame with a long, long steerer with huge huge stack of 
spacers or a highly angled stem, it becomes quite a trigonometry problem to 
figure out which stem angle and extension to order to make the bars do X, Y 
or Z.   If the frame was designed for high bars, perhaps that concern goes 
away.  At that point, to me, it is mostly an aesthetic choice.

Removable faceplates are a huge convenience with threadless, but in my 
opinion don't outweigh the above.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless versus threaded stems -- convenience summary

[Ginz]

Ah yes! Threaded is my choice. Sorry for the error.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Threadless versus threaded stems -- convenience summary

[Ginz]

On small sized frames it is awfully tough to get the bars high on a threadless 
setup without having a ridiculously long steerer that looks silly or an 
intensely sloping top tube.  For a classic looking smaller frame, threadless is 
my choice. 

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[RBW] Re: Coffeeneuring Complete!

[Ginz]

Patrick,

Does the coffee stay warm enough at these temperatures?! About how long do you 
have until it goes cold?

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[RBW] Carradice style saddlebag advice for 51cm Roadini?

[Ginz]

A Barley will fit there without a support. I recommend the “Audax” version of 
the Barley. Same size, better features. 

A Nelson Lowsaddle Longflap might fit, might not.

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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Ginz]

Jandd had a similar shoulder pad like the one in the photo above. Not sure if 
they are still available. 

https://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FSNP

Erik — I recommend moving out of the ‘yunk to flatter ground. :)

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

When using the full sized silver shifter, is it too long and create too much 
leverage? A shorter lever is best for thumbs? For some reason that surprises 
me. 

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Ginz]

Daniel,

Now, if someone would just make a quality, indexed 8 speed thumbie, we'd be 
in business.

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

Thanks. I get a "Not Found" error.  Does it work for anyone else?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept?

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[RBW] Re: Favorite grips for bar end shifters?

[Ginz]

That’s a great idea. Oh my I have some Ourys somewhere. 

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Re: [RBW] HHH Run?

[Ginz]

I could probably survive with a stand over of close to 30” but, with a tandem, 
wouldn’t I want some more? To be able to dismount more easily? Feels like it 
would be a lot to handle. 

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[RBW] HHH Run?

[Ginz]

Looks like there may be another run of the HHH tandem, maybe possibly.

Man, if they could do the Gus Boots curved top-tube to increase the 
standover for smaller riders (5'4"), I'd seriously consider buying one, 
hanging it in my basement and awaiting the growth of my kids.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Mounting Supernova E3

[Ginz]

I found this little gadget to be helpful. I had to get a long, stainless M4 
bolt with a bunch of spacers, etc. to space my E3 away from the rack far 
enough.  I was using a Nitto M12-type rack.

http://boulderbicycle.bike/light-brackets/


>>

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[RBW] One month VO Touring rear hub review.

[Ginz]

Just watched some you tube videos. Wow. That’s some noise. 

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[RBW] One month VO Touring rear hub review.

[Ginz]

I wonder if the noise would bug me. 

I’m thinking of buying one plus an extra cassette body for my parts hoard.  Not 
many reasonably priced 36h hubs around. 

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[RBW] Re: Here's my new Atlantis

[Ginz]

I'll go ahead with the obligatory "which handlebar is that" question... :)


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[RBW] Re: FS: bars, shorts, pedals

[Ginz]

Eric - I’d go $15 shipped (cheapest method) on the mks pedals. Could use a set 
for my beater. 

On Tuesday, September 18, 2018 at 6:40:09 PM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:
> I'm continuing to clean out my parts bin while I slowly build my bike fund 
> reserve for possibly a new Jones purchase (LWB/unicrown fork, I already have 
> the wheels for some reason...)
> 
> 
> Pictures and more details are here:
> https://bikingtoplay.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-for-sale-post.html
> 
> 
> 
> - Nitto Billie bar, $70
> - Nitto Noodle bar, 46cm, 100mm Technomic stem, Shimano non-aero levers, $65
> - MUSA shorts, $30 Med and $25 Large
> - MKS RMX sneaker pedals, $15
> 
> 
> Everything is OBO and shipping not included.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Eric Daume
> Plain City, OH

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Ginz]

I recall an interview by Grant Petersen where Brandt agued against the value of 
the longer flap on the Carradice longflap bags. Now *that’s* an opinion. 

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[RBW] Re: New Breeks and Old Leaves

[Ginz]

Patrick,

Which fabric did you choose?  Are they lined in the leg? Very interested to 
hear how these wear over time.  I love the idea.

-Ginz

>
>

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[RBW] Re: silver shifter adapter for Paul thumbies

[Ginz]

The velo orange mount might work. 

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[RBW] Re: 2000 All Rounder

[Ginz]

The level of satisfaction is so, so high go when someone else has taken the 
worry and preciousness out of it and yet it bike is still as nice as it was 
new. 

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[RBW] Re: access to grip king bearings

[Ginz]

Use a corkscrew or wood screw gripped with pliars. Then fill the hole you 
made with Hogar's glue.  That's honestly what I did.   Maybe there is a 
metal cap that will fit, but I haven't researched it.


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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ginz]

Insider information is good! 

But, I dunno, a 27F without the low rider isn’t so good looking either. I could 
stand the 8-pack rack if I’m zip tying a basket on it.  At some point, I’m just 
putting the 34F on and calling it a day. 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ginz]

I've been thinking about this an I'm really intrigued by the Surly 8-Pack 
rack vs. the Nitto 32F.  The surly doesn't seem to interfere with the fork 
crown and straddle carrier in any way.  Installation looks as clunky as any 
of these racks with canti-brakes.

Also curious to see what the Nitto basket rack looks like, but might try to 
pick up a used Surly 8-Pack if I see one.

>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

[Ginz]

If you add spacers underneath the locknuts you should be ok. 

Can anyone else weigh in here??

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

[Ginz]

Are you sure that the original bottom bracket would cause the chainrings to hit 
the chainstay?  If so they yes, you may need to go wider. 

Here’s what I would do:

Install the crank on your XO-2. Measure the chain line in the front, following 
Sheldon’s directions. Let’s see what that number is. Then tell us what rear hub 
and cassette you are using.  If you focus on hitting the correct chain line, 
presumably 47.5mm then you shouldn’t hit the seat stay with the chainrings. 

(I personally wouldn’t squeeze the frame to fit the hub but others would 
certainly do that.)

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[RBW] Re: Building out New Old Stock 2009 Sam Hillborne

[Ginz]

What rear wheel were you planning to use?

http://thepeoplelike.blogspot.com/

It looks like that Exage crank uses a 121mm spindle. So, A shimano UN55 68 
x 122.5mm would be easy to get and cheaper than the tools to swap out a cup 
and cone BB.

I'm assuming that Sam Hillborne's rear is spaced at 135mm.  If so, then 
this crank/BB combo should give you roughly the 47.5mm chainline you need 
for a typical 135mm mountain bike hub.


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