[Repeater-Builder] Alinco DR-235T MK III as link radio w/ RC210
Morning Folks, Well we used the last of our grant money on a Alinco DR-235T MK III for our link between the 2 local 440 repeaters. I can get everything working except the RX audio coming from the link radio. We're using the following pins; RC210Alinco PTT Pin 3Pin 7 TX Pin 4 Pin 9 RX Pin 6 Pin 4 Gnd Pin 5Pin 5 COS Pin 7Pin 1 No change with the moving the Disc.Port 2 up and down either. Ideas? Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RC-100 remote base hardware selection
Be ready to get your magnifying glass out! Icom 2a by far is the easiest to use. With it split open, it will give you the proper cooling. Also be aware you'll need to build up a little voltage thingy because it cannot take 12v directly. Mine worked great for years. Also be ready to push a ton of dtmf's to make that thing work (if you can't freq.s) on a RC100. That is why I changed to an Arcom 210. I uploaded pics to the file section. Look for Icom 2a pics. (good friend of mine sent me those before I started doing that type of setup) I have used the 2a, 3a and 4a with this setup (same radio really - different band). Have other pictures I can take as well. Also have some notes if you need them. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lowell elowell9...@... wrote: Greetings, I am considering adding a 2m remote base to my RC-100 controlled UHF machine. Looking for recommendations of specific radios to use, along with any to avoid. I would like to use the BCD frequency agility of the controller. Thanks and best regards de W1EL Eric Lowell Eastern Maine Electronics Inc. 48 Loon Road Wesley ME 04686 eme@... www.satnetmaine.com 207-210-7469
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RC-100 remote base hardware selection
Be ready to get your magnifying glass out! Icom 2a by far is the easiest to use. With it split open, it will give you the proper cooling. Also be aware you'll need to build up a little voltage thingy because it cannot take 12v directly. Mine worked great for years. Also be ready to push a ton of dtmf's to make that thing work (if you can't freq.s) on a RC100. That is why I changed to an Arcom 210. I uploaded pics to the file section. Look for Icom 2a pics. (good friend of mine sent me those before I started doing that type of setup) I have used the 2a, 3a and 4a with this setup (same radio really - different band). Have other pictures I can take as well. Also have some notes if you need them. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lowell elowell9...@... wrote: Greetings, I am considering adding a 2m remote base to my RC-100 controlled UHF machine. Looking for recommendations of specific radios to use, along with any to avoid. I would like to use the BCD frequency agility of the controller. Thanks and best regards de W1EL Eric Lowell Eastern Maine Electronics Inc. 48 Loon Road Wesley ME 04686 eme@... www.satnetmaine.com 207-210-7469
[Repeater-Builder] OT - Echolink w/Random characters?
or this might possibly not be OT. I am having a problem with numbers (or just characters #,*, etc.) showing up in the program. There are no random dtmf's coming through via rf. This seems to happen most time when the repeater may be active, but doesn't happen all the time. It is setup on VOX at the time. Sometimes it happens when nothing is being transmitted and these characters are showing up in the window at the bottom. There in turn it keys and says not connected or XYZ node doesn't exist, etc. I have changed the s/n, twist, etc. to the suggested settings. I am running a Rigblaster interface, WinXp and version 2.0.980. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Radio Mobile Deluxe Plot?
Good Morning, Boy Radio Mobile Deluxe has a big learning curve! I have looked at the online coverage plot that was listed a couple of weeks ago (great one). However I can't copy the picture to post on the website. Can anyone run a plot for me on Radio Mobile Deluxe? Here is the ASR on the site; http://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/AsrSearch/asrRegistration.jsp?regKey=122476 The VHF machine (145.210 / 144.610) right now putting 100watts into Sinclair cans. 7/8 hardline and probably about 320 total length. The UHF machine (444.600 / 449.600) is putting in about 100watts into the cans (Moto but will be changing to Sinclair cans soon) and coming out about 70 watts to the antenna. 1 5/8 and the length is about 320'. Any help would be appreciated. Please email me direct. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC (new setup - www.tinyurl.com/cnx3k9)
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Radio Mobile Deluxe Plot?
Oh man sorry about that. Look below to fill in some of your questions; --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Radioman radio...@... wrote: You would need to provide more information for us to run the plots. Including: Antenna height (looking at your website pictures I presume around 300') Yes, right at 300' Effective receiver sensitivity (taking into account the noise floor etc) Duplexer, isolator and any filter losses. I believe this is right. Have to check with my elmer that was helping with this. The UHF machine *I believe* had .18. *I think* the VHF machine was at 2.2. Both repeaters will be getting better sensitivity soon with the MSR2000 being putting in on VHF and a new AAR preamp on the UHF, along with a new set of cans. Do you want talk-in or talk-out plots (they won't be the same). I would like one of each if possible. What kind of coverage do you want to plot? Such as 90% coverage, 90% of the time or something else. Oh wow. Didn't think about that. I would guess 90%. Really a plot that would be reliable talk out / talk in coverage...maybe by a typical mobile? Take a look at the possibilities in RM. As you said RM has a very big learning curve with many different possibilities and it is very easy to get inaccurate plots. You are so right. That is why I am asking. My plots seemed very far fetched. Thanks so much! Robert KD4YDC I didn't follow the part about how you have a picture file from a couple of weeks ago that you want to move to your site. Harry W0OZL -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 8:16 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Radio Mobile Deluxe Plot? Good Morning, Boy Radio Mobile Deluxe has a big learning curve! I have looked at the online coverage plot that was listed a couple of weeks ago (great one). However I can't copy the picture to post on the website.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater Insurance?
We have lots of spare parts too. But that doesn't cover the tower climb by a company that can afford their insurance to climb the thing. A 2 day climb right now is going to cost us somewhere between $2500.00 to $4000.00 alone. And we are getting a special rate. Waiting for the bill. Thank goodness for the grant we got. Robert ps Thanks for the responses. Any others would be appreciated. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, NORM KNAPP nkn...@... wrote: Our insurance in our club consists of lots of spare parts and back-ups. - Original Message - From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Fri Apr 24 20:51:55 2009 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Insurance? Good Evening Folks, How many of you have repeater insurance? With our new installation, we thought this might be the next step. How much are you paying and who do you have the insurance with? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/7943953_gF4Q3 http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/7943953_gF4Q3 (Hope to get some more pictures up this weekend.)
[Repeater-Builder] Repeater Insurance?
Good Evening Folks, How many of you have repeater insurance? With our new installation, we thought this might be the next step. How much are you paying and who do you have the insurance with? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/7943953_gF4Q3 (Hope to get some more pictures up this weekend.)
[Repeater-Builder] Antenna pics and coverage check
Good Morning Folks, I have some raw pictures of the antenna installation from our repeaters this past weekend. Over the next week we will be adding some text and some other pictures as well. Sorry. Only had a 3.2 mega pixel camera to send up with the tower crew. Yes. They did not come down until it was completely dark outside (We wanted them down! Crew chief wanted to finish the project). This took place over the past 2 days, 12 to 14 hours each day. 6 antennas were installed on a 300ft self supporting Rohn tower. 3 db224's 2 db420's and one Comet GP-98 was put up. 300', 250' and 200' were the levels. If your in the metro ATL area...would love signal reports. The repeaters are 145.210- 131.8hz and 444.600+ 77hz. Hope to add more later. (We have MANY more pictures down below) Now to unload the truck before the rain sets in ;-) 73, Robert KD4YDC http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/7943953_gF4Q3
[Repeater-Builder] Antenna Spacing
How close can these antennas be placed in the same horizontal plane? These antennas would be placed at the top of a tower on one leg. A) db224 on 2mtrs and db224 on 220mhz or B) db224 on 2mtrs and db420 on 440mhz Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna Spacing
We will have other antennas side mounted but locked into 2 other positions (for a total of 3 positions). Only one leg at the top can it be mounted on. The mount is not far enough from the tower to consider a hanging antenna. Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kris Kirby k...@... wrote: On Tue, 24 Mar 2009, georgiaskywarn wrote: How close can these antennas be placed in the same horizontal plane? These antennas would be placed at the top of a tower on one leg. A) db224 on 2mtrs and db224 on 220mhz or B) db224 on 2mtrs and db420 on 440mhz In mobile mounting, I've been told that you want to be 1/4 wavelength apart at the lower frequency. For commercial installations (i.e.: fixed base), I think one wavelength is supposed to get you outside of impacting the beam by altering the near-field. That isn't to say that you won't impact the far-field. If the tower is large enough, you might consider putting the two meter DB-224 on top, and the 220MHz DB-224 off one side. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
[Repeater-Builder] db products dealers in the ATL area
Seems to be that Cook Towers is out of business in the ATL area. Are there other dealers in the Atlanta area? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Harness for a db224.....
in the Atlanta area? Who in this area sells db products stuff? Robert KD4YDC ps Contact info?
[Repeater-Builder] Dup Cable Lengths? (Was -Re: Sinclair Q-318 dup.s?)
Does anyone know what the lengths are for these or the Q-301 cables? 444.600 / 449.600 is the freq.s Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn kd4...@... wrote: Hi Folks, Trying to find some info on dup.s I got a t a hamfest this past weekend. I believe they are Sinclair Q-318 dup.s. 4 cans, about 7 round and about 12.5 high. Has the fine and coarse tuning. Looks like the cables have been mod'ed with rg214 cables and *was* on 443.725/448.725. Looking to possibly cut cables to 449.600/444.600. Might not need to, but need formula to check these. Everything points to the Q series of dup.s Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Sinclair Q-318 dup.s?
Hi Folks, Trying to find some info on dup.s I got a t a hamfest this past weekend. I believe they are Sinclair Q-318 dup.s. 4 cans, about 7 round and about 12.5 high. Has the fine and coarse tuning. Looks like the cables have been mod'ed with rg214 cables and *was* on 443.725/448.725. Looking to possibly cut cables to 449.600/444.600. Might not need to, but need formula to check these. Everything points to the Q series of dup.s Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] WTB - Several items
Our repeater group is looking for a vendor that has IN STOCK a db224JJ. Our point person has called several folks...and nothing so far (not sure which ones...open for suggestions). Any vendors here? Contact me direct if you have one. Also not sure if we can buy used since this is going thru a grant. Have to check. Also looking for a commercial sway bar to go on a GB-98. Any suggestions. Going on one of the large Rohn towers (does SVVC sound right?). It will be at the 250' mark on the 300' tower...so really not sure diameter. I know it is not the 5 round leg...or whatever it is at the bottom. Again, vendors...contact me direct if you have one. Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS / (Skywarn - WX4PTC) Peachtree City, GA
[Repeater-Builder] Written standard for installs at radio and cell sites?
Hi Folks, Is there such a beast? We are getting ready to move into a new site and will be installing everything from installing antennas, hardlines to the repeaters. One of the fellows in our ham group does this for a living, however that doesn't help me and the other fellow dressing out the repeaters...in the cabinets, in our own hamshacks before. The term Motorola Standard keeps being used. Anyone heard of this? I know there are certain electrical codes that must be followed...but Moto Codes? I have a 6ft cabinet on wheels right now. It was mentioned that the cabinets must be bolted to the floor. Hoping that I do not have to take the wheels off (real heavy!). Also hoping just to use some sort of J hook to make that happen...but not sure if it is code. Also with the other cabinet we're putting in...we were told it is not code to mount the cans on the outside of the cabinet. Is there something written on the web folks could point us to? Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS / Peachtree City, GA Skywarn www.georgiaskywarn.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Written standard for installs at radio and cell sites?
Thanks Guys for the quick responses. We are lucky to have our fellow who does this for a living I guess then (and knows the standards). Seems to be alot in those standards. We will comply with everything including what the site owner (DNR...soon to be GA State Patrol) requires. If someone has this manual...could you look under - 9.6 Equipment Anchoring and see if the cabinet must be physically on the ground, or if I can use a turnbuckle, two or four...to make it bolted to the floor. http://bacoenterprises.thomasnet.com/viewitems/turnbuckle-assemblies/stub-end-turnbuckles?forward=1 Thought about using this by screwing one end of the stubs into the floor...then drilling holes into the bottom of the cabinet. Run the stubs into the bottom and put nuts on the stubs running up into the cabinet bottom. I know it would work...but just wasn't sure what the code said. Also looking to see what it might say on the duplexers being mounted outside the cabinet. May have to just bolt another short cabinet on top. Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, wb6fly wb6...@... wrote: Robert, Motorola has published the R56 Manual for many years, and it has become the bible for many cellular and repeater installations. It covers almost every aspect of site design, construction, and maintenance. There are a few fine points of electrical grounding that do not comply with the National Electrical Code, so you should always check with your local building inspector before installing any grounding conductors. The 350-page print manual is publication number 6881089E50, and is currently priced around $90. The R56 manual is also available on CD- ROM as publication number 9880384V83, for about $70. There are other manuals that are valuable, and more information is here: www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/radiositerules.html The National Electrical Code devotes an entire chapter to the proper installation, grounding, and protection of radio and television equipment- including Amateur Radio stations. This guidance is in Article 810 of the 2005 NEC- which is the current edition that has been ratified by most states. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ wrote: Hi Folks, Is there such a beast? We are getting ready to move into a new site and will be installing everything from installing antennas, hardlines to the repeaters. One of the fellows in our ham group does this for a living, however that doesn't help me and the other fellow dressing out the repeaters...in the cabinets, in our own hamshacks before. The term Motorola Standard keeps being used. Anyone heard of this? I know there are certain electrical codes that must be followed...but Moto Codes? I have a 6ft cabinet on wheels right now. It was mentioned that the cabinets must be bolted to the floor. Hoping that I do not have to take the wheels off (real heavy!). Also hoping just to use some sort of J hook to make that happen...but not sure if it is code. Also with the other cabinet we're putting in...we were told it is not code to mount the cans on the outside of the cabinet. Is there something written on the web folks could point us to? Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS / Peachtree City, GA Skywarn www.georgiaskywarn.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RLS1000B question
Ok, Finally got audio to pass. It is like a big puzzle, but it works. Boy their documentation lacks alot!! Thanks Skipp and Ramesh for your help on this. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a RLS1000B connected to a RC210. I have a 220 link radio on the RLS1000B and the RC210 is connected to a UHF repeater. The TX audio from 440 to 220, PTT on 220 (when the 440 is keyed), COS from 220 to 440 (which then keys the 440)is all fine. However I can't get 220 audio back to 440. I checked connections and everything is fine. I plugged the 220 radio directly to the RC210 and works great. I have a plug in line to switch some pins around to make that cable work when plugged into the RLS1000B. Checked out fine. The paper I have on it is real dim on details. Tried the RX pots on both units...no joy. Almost as if it doesn't have enough signal or something. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Suggestions on UHF - TXRX BP/BR dups
Getting ready to purchase a TXRX dups for my UHF repeater. Repeater will be running about 100watts into the dup.s. Will be buying new. Suggestions on model numbers to look for? Is the TX/RX brand what I need to be looking at (for the best BP/BR dup.s)? Currently running the Moto series 1500 (BP/BR). Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] RLS1000B question
I have a RLS1000B connected to a RC210. I have a 220 link radio on the RLS1000B and the RC210 is connected to a UHF repeater. The TX audio from 440 to 220, PTT on 220 (when the 440 is keyed), COS from 220 to 440 (which then keys the 440)is all fine. However I can't get 220 audio back to 440. I checked connections and everything is fine. I plugged the 220 radio directly to the RC210 and works great. I have a plug in line to switch some pins around to make that cable work when plugged into the RLS1000B. Checked out fine. The paper I have on it is real dim on details. Tried the RX pots on both units...no joy. Almost as if it doesn't have enough signal or something. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Tower Frame antenna mounts
Please take a look at this page; http://www.tessco.com/products/displayHierarchySkus.do?groupId=341subgroupId=53showFilterItems=trueeventGroup=4eventPage=1 Has anyone used this type of mount with 2 db antennas on either end? (one db224 and db420) . The tower would be one of the large free standing Rohn SSV type of towers. This would be somewhere around the 250' mark. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board
Anybody have a schematic for the Micor 100watt PA? Also can only get about 78 watts out of this thing. Have changed out the power control board...either board the power doesn't go up or down. Ideas? Haven't tried this yet; http://www.hamrepeater.org/micr_uhf.htm (bottom of the page to defeat this portion) but am going to try it tonight. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board
Ok. Let's look at this then. I have no power control from the Power Control Board. Can't turn it up or down. Tried 2 different boards as well. 1) Ideas? 2) Don't have the schematic in front of mebut can't find the caps on the schematics I have...listed from the below web site. Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary Glaenzer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: there is no 100 watt Micor amp without qualifiers, that is a pretty broad statement Gary - Original Message - From: Captainlance To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board The PA is only factory rated at 78 watts...there is no 100 watt Micor amp. Some however, will do 100... Lance N2HBA - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:44 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board Anybody have a schematic for the Micor 100watt PA? Also can only get about 78 watts out of this thing. Have changed out the power control board...either board the power doesn't go up or down. Ideas? Haven't tried this yet; http://www.hamrepeater.org/micr_uhf.htm (bottom of the page to defeat this portion) but am going to try it tonight. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1755 - Release Date: 10/29/2008 5:27 PM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board
*I think* this is the number (UHF btw)(Repeater Continuous Duty) TLE8331A Getting ready to try some of the things listed below. Let you know what I find out. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What type PA are you referring to ? UHF or VHF ? Model No. ? The power control Bd on the UHF has 2 pots for setting the output level. Make sure they are clean (contact cleaner and rotating back and forth while spraying) The left one, as you face the rptr. sets the upper limit of the power level (by regulation the max, current to the PA), the second one allows you to vary the out put power with in the preset limits. This is apparently a Motorola safety feature. If your having the same problem with 2 Bds. then most likely it is not bad boards. Next item would be to open up the PA and reflow/resolder the solder at all the power transisters legs (these have a tendency to develope cold joints or de-solder themselves over time from heat and age. also flow fresh solder along all the power traces between the transisters to insure they are not cracked, corroded or causing a high resistance. Look for any other damage to component and touch up all the connections you can with the soldering iron. I belive the VHF Micor is basically the same except on the PA the traces between the pwr transisters are not as exposed and as long as on the UHF PA. I did the above to my UHF Micor that had dropped down to about 60w max. and the Max. output jumped to about 112W, but I turned it back to 75W. If that doesn't help then. Maybe someone else out there has a suggestion or two. If I made any incorrect statements i'm sure someone will correct them for you also. -- Doug N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709 georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = Ok. Let's look at this then. I have no power control from the Power Control Board. Can't turn it up or down. Tried 2 different boards as well. 1) Ideas? 2) Don't have the schematic in front of mebut can't find the caps on the schematics I have...listed from the below web site. Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary Glaenzer glaenzer@ wrote: there is no 100 watt Micor amp without qualifiers, that is a pretty broad statement Gary - Original Message - From: Captainlance To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board The PA is only factory rated at 78 watts...there is no 100 watt Micor amp. Some however, will do 100... Lance N2HBA - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:44 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board Anybody have a schematic for the Micor 100watt PA? Also can only get about 78 watts out of this thing. Have changed out the power control board...either board the power doesn't go up or down. Ideas? Haven't tried this yet; http://www.hamrepeater.org/micr_uhf.htm (bottom of the page to defeat this portion) but am going to try it tonight. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1755 - Release Date: 10/29/2008 5:27 PM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board
I will do some of the suggestions Doug gave me. I have 15.18v on that pin. Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Captainlance [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Pull the control lead off of the amp, it is on the backplane, pin 3( a screw) on the top left corner. If you have voltage on the screw, your power board is OK, and the amp is the trouble, usually a bad control stage. if, with the control lead off, you have no voltage, check the chassis mounted transistor underneath the power set board, and the voltages on the 3 pin molex connector that powers the board . you should have one lead at ground, one at 10volts, one at 12 volts. - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 12:05 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board Ok. Let's look at this then. I have no power control from the Power Control Board. Can't turn it up or down. Tried 2 different boards as well. 1) Ideas? 2) Don't have the schematic in front of mebut can't find the caps on the schematics I have...listed from the below web site. Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary Glaenzer glaenzer@ wrote: there is no 100 watt Micor amp without qualifiers, that is a pretty broad statement Gary - Original Message - From: Captainlance To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board The PA is only factory rated at 78 watts...there is no 100 watt Micor amp. Some however, will do 100... Lance N2HBA - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:44 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA schematic / Power Control Board Anybody have a schematic for the Micor 100watt PA? Also can only get about 78 watts out of this thing. Have changed out the power control board...either board the power doesn't go up or down. Ideas? Haven't tried this yet; http://www.hamrepeater.org/micr_uhf.htm (bottom of the page to defeat this portion) but am going to try it tonight. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1755 - Release Date: 10/29/2008 5:27 PM -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1755 - Release Date: 10/29/2008 5:27 PM
[Repeater-Builder] 900mhz dup.s
Can these 900mhz dup.s be used on 900mhz VOICE repeater? They were on a paging system and are Bp dup.s. http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/6384589_BRBva (password is 900mhz-dup.s ) What are they worth? I'll be at the Stone Mtn Hamfest in ATL this weekend (early) if anyone is interested. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 900mhz dup.s
You may be right Jeff...it is a load of sorts. One piece but 3 ports. You would think by taking out the transmitter load (or what ever it is) you might could use one side for the rx and one side for the tx. I guess cabling would have to be reconfigured. Shame. Nice loops. Don't know. But someone could have this for a steal. Especially if your going to the ATL hamfest this weekend ;-) Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jeff DePolo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can these 900mhz dup.s be used on 900mhz VOICE repeater? They were on a paging system and are Bp dup.s. Without measuring the rejection at whatever offset (12 MHz, 25 MHz, etc.) they would be used at, it's hard to say whether or not two pass cavities on each side would afford enough isolation. The orientation of the coupling loops will obviously play a roll in determing rejection and insertion loss. That black thing where the tee is - it has fins that make it look like a reject load? Seems strange. Or is it just a standoff to support the tee? I have some other big Wacom cavities like that which were part of a combiner, but the standoffs for the tees and star junctions were just metal posts, they don't like anything like that black gizmo. Curious. How much are they worth? Depends on who's buying them :-) --- Jeff WN3A
[Repeater-Builder] Micor Power Supply or Astron Supply?
What say the group; Micor TPN-1106 (w/battery backup) or Astron RM-50M (w/battery backup) Add on some sort of 9.6v reg. board for the Astron. Don't have a TPN-1106 yet but will be looking for one if I do go that route. PA is 100watt cont. Have a TPN-1100B right now. If there is a add on board for that (and have been told there is not)...might look at that. Will be making a quick run to the Stone Mtn Hamfest in ATL on Nov 1st if someone has one for sell. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Quarter Wave Stubs/Notching Interference
Mike, You mentioned that you can't climb the water tower, so I guess trying to move the antenna into a null or putting some sort of shield is out. With the repeater 30 miles away, can you use a push up pole with the yagi on it? The water tower itself may act as a shield if it is placed in the right place. You might could get away with a pretty short pole if a yagi is used. 73, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Besemer \(WM4B\) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Eric, Yeah. we're always trying to do something for nothing! We're a low-budget operation and I'm pretty much left to my own devices to try things that the club wants to do. The good thing is, if this one just doesn't come to fruition, we haven't spend any money on it. The radio is an old Yaesu Memorizer. I'm sure that the front end (or lack thereof) is a major part of the problem. I've looked at the site noise on a spectrum analyzer and the repeater seems clean at the link frequency (with the spectrum analyzer hooked to the link antenna) so it's just poor rejection on the part of the Yaesu. With the antenna unhooked, there is no noise (additional . beyond normal static) on the Yaesu with the repeater transmitter on and with the Yaesu hooked to a signal generator, the repeater transmitter has no effect. so the offending signal must be coming through the antenna. The beam is (unfortunately) also a given. We can't climb the watertower but we're allowed to use an antenna already in place. so we're stuck with what we've got. I've been looking at that GE bulletin already. that's actually my next plan of attack. A plain quarter-wave stub has actually been fairly effective (much to my surprise) but I need to do better. I'll keep plugging away at it. it may turn out to be a total bust or perhaps a case of 'okay. this is as good as it gets'. I knew I was out of my mind when I volunteered to become the repeater manager! 73, Mike WM4B From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 11:57 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Quarter Wave Stubs/Notching Interference Geez, Mike, you're not asking for much, are you? I assume you are using a half-duplex radio for the link, and it receives on 145.110 MHz and transmits to the distant repeater on 144.510 MHz. So, you need a high-Q notch at 146.850 MHz to protect the link receiver at 145.110 MHz, while not affecting the link transmitter at 144.510 MHz. Whew! It would help if you specified what make and model radios are involved, along with what duplexer and filters are in place. It's not easy to figure out potential fixes without knowing the quality and performance data of the radios. A Micor or Mitrek link radio, with the helical front-end filter, will perform much better than a broadband 2m mobile radio. My first choice would be a bandpass cavity on the TX side of your repeater, to attenuate broadband noise that might fall on the link receive frequency. Since that is not an option, perhaps a coaxial-cable notch filter in the same location might be a solution. Here's one reference: www.repeater-builder.com/ge/datafile-bulletin/df-10002-01.pdf An eight-element beam is major overkill for a link, IMHO, and may be part of the problem. Perhaps a corner reflector would be a good choice. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Mike Besemer (WM4B) Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 8:12 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Quarter Wave Stubs/Notching Interference I'm working on collocating a 2-meter remote base with our repeater, and naturally every time the repeater transmits, it makes the remote-base radio totally deaf. I've been playing with quarter-wave stubs with some success (and have lots more ideas/experimenting in mind) but would like to hear from others who are running collocated equipment without the aid of cavities/duplexers. The local repeater is running 30 watts on 146.85 to a DB-224 at about 125 feet. The link is on 145.11 10 watts to an 8-element beam at about 70 feet. The whole purpose of the remote base is to link to another repeater 30 miles away. And before anybody asks, a link on another band isn't a possibility (primarily because of limitations with antenna systems), so it's 2-meter remote base or nothing. Thanks, Mike WM4B
Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ...
Mike, I have not. However if you do a search on http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rc210/, it might have an answer. Not sure if this is one of the groups that will let you search it, without being a member or not. (Great info from the users. I am sure that most all the controller makers have a support group like this.) From the manual this is what they show; Frequency Agile Radios Supported Kenwood - All model radios with a computer port to allow control of radio, such as TS-2000 Kenwood - mobiles TM-V7A, TM-G707, TM-271A, TM-471A Elecraft - All models with a computer port Yaesu - FT-817, FT-847, FT-857, FT-897, FT100D Icom - IC706MKIIg, IC-746, IC-756 Doug Hall RBI-1 Remote Base Radio Interface I am sure it is just how the radio maker allows the computer interface talk to the radio. Regardless what controller you use with it. Not sure if the TS-2000 would allow the same types of changes the other Kenwood mobiles do. In all fairness, other controllers may allow the changes of freq and pl tones...but the RC210 is what I am familiar with. It definitely gets a workout every Wednesday night (stoddard.homeip.net/slrn) and every SKYWARN activation here in Georgia. 73 and Good Luck with your search, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Michael Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wonder though, can these things be done with the FT-897 or the FT-100 or 100D? Have you tried it with any other radios beside a Kenwood or just a vhf/uhf radio by chance? - Mike From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 8:59 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ... I should have said; The RC210 has 10 internal memories (which I use) and then 180 memories (think that is what the TM-G707 has) for the Kenwood. Robert ps The 707 is in VFO when it goes back and forth between the internal controller memories. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ wrote: Not true Mike. Check out www.georgiaskywarn.com. My remote has NO memories in it. It is a Kenwood TM-G707. All the repeaters you see on that list, I can remote up and bring to the hub repeater. I can also go back and tell it a freq / offset, then go back and tell it the pl. Yes, you do have to have a box of sorts to do the magic between the RC210 but very easy to build. Is the RB-1 still available? Or did they stop selling that. (I think that is the number) I believe that is the one needed for the SCom. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , Michael Ryan mryan001@ wrote: .as long as those repeaters have the SAME pl as you use for your own repeater. -M From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 9:28 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ... I have the yaesu 857d. You use memories in the controller not the radio. I admit that is a limitation but it can be worked around with macros if needed. I am only using a couple for local repeaters and calling freqs so it is not a problem for me Rob Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com) -Original Message- From: Michael Ryan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 05:25 PM Eastern Standard Time To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ... Rob, the exasperation continues.. Every controller has its pros and cons just like cars. You research what you need or want and pick one that best matches your needs. That is just what I said in both emails. Have fun with your system, you obviously did the research and have something that works for YOU. But tell me what HF radio that you have with memories that are accessed by the RC-210.maybe we'll learn something here. -Mike From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Robert Pease Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 5:11 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ... You really
Repeater controller suggestions (was Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking ...
Bob, Are you talking Tone Squelch (tx / rx) or just txing the pl tone. I change the tx pl tone with my macros and the internal memories all the time. Now if all the repeaters you are txing the tone so you can run tone squelch...there is a mod you can do on the TM-G707 so that the computer port on the radio brings out the CT. However, you won't be able to run carrier squelch if you do that mod. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 9/7/2008 05:20, you wrote: Not true Mike. Check out www.georgiaskywarn.com. My remote has NO memories in it. It is a Kenwood TM-G707. All the repeaters you see on that list, I can remote up and bring to the hub repeater. I can also go back and tell it a freq / offset, then go back and tell it the pl. I've yet to see a G707 with remotely controllable CTCSS that doesn't use the radio's memories. Did you run a haywire into the radio to bring out the contacts for the OK button? I don't see any other way of accomplishing remote CTCSS select because the OK button must be pushed to complete the CTCSS freq. change, this button isn't available on the microphone (thanks a lot, Kenwood!). Bob NO6B
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking for DTMF encoder...or suggestions
Good Suggestion Shanon! I have actually needed those chips from time to time (thanks!) What about this? I have a handful of dtmf pads from various IC2at, 3at and 4at (one other that is a knock off that starts with a S?) that was used in remote base projects. I wonder if I could make one of these work? What a great idea for programming these things (Arcom 210 btw) What would I need to make that work? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Sinclair antennas suggestions
What Sinclair antenna would be a match to the db420? Anyone know a ball park figure on pricing? Any dealer suggestions to deal with? The suggestion in earlier post mentioned that Sinclair might custom cut a vhf / uhf style antenna...something like what the db314 is. Curious also if anyone has had a Sinclair custom built before. Other dc grounded antenna suggestions are welcomed too. Thanks! Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Antenna Installation Company Suggestions needed
Does anyone have any suggestions for some companies that would do work on the southside of ATL? I have a few in mind myself, but we are getting names so as to get bids together. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair antennas suggestions
Thanks Eric and others for these suggestions. Now would it be cheaper to go direct to the companies (Sinclair, Telwave, Comprod, etc.) than to go through a distribution company? Found the Sinclair site but didn't find prices. Yeah. Knew it was not going to be cheap. I can't remember what the number was but one of the Sinclair models I found on one site (maybe a 8 or 11db model?) was $1200.00 or so. Little better than the $1400.00 I saw with the db420. Also, don't get me wrong. LOVE the db420. Have one in my back yard that may be put up as the uhf remote or backup repeater antenna (Since a sick repeater antenna may be just fine for a local uhf remote antenna. At one site a abandoned cell phone panel loads just fine on UHF ;-) ) Never knew about the Comprod model. They had a few V / U combined...but can't find the pdf on it. My problem in getting some of these folks on the phone is I teach school and my planning is during everyone's lunch break :-( Thanks. Any other comments are welcome. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, You can peruse the Sinclair catalog at www.sinctech.com It is a Canadian company, so shipping to Stateside addresses is one factor to consider. I bought two SRL-222 VHF dipole antennas for 2m use, several years ago, and they are both performing very well. Sinclair products are generally well-designed and well-made, but they are expensive. You can special-order almost any Sinclair product through commercial distributors such as Tessco, Talley, and Hutton. The only item I have ordered direct from Sinclair was a new cable harness for a Q-202G duplexer, to convert it from high-split to low-split, for operation in the 2m band. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 4:43 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair antennas suggestions What Sinclair antenna would be a match to the db420? Anyone know a ball park figure on pricing? Any dealer suggestions to deal with? The suggestion in earlier post mentioned that Sinclair might custom cut a vhf / uhf style antenna...something like what the db314 is. Curious also if anyone has had a Sinclair custom built before. Other dc grounded antenna suggestions are welcomed too. Thanks! Robert KD4YDC
Re: [Repeater-Builder]SCOM 7330 Question
Was so busy this week with school starting...didn't reply to this thread. But really feel like I should now. Seems like the gentleman who started this has made up his mind though. For the onlookers...here is my 2 cents worth. Worked on a SCom 7k for our local NWS. Found it extremely difficult to program at the time. In fairness, I am sure with more time..it would become easier as with every controller. When I got my RC210 as a typical new kid on the block I was pretty dumb in it's workings. However after studying over the program manual everything seemed to be VERY logical in how it was setup. Long and short of it. I own 2 RC210's now. Our local club will be buying it's 2nd one soon. Several other repeater owners here on the southside of ATL own them. Ken is very supportive of his product. I have seen him exchange parts and pieces...even when it wasn't his fault. I have experience this myself ;-) Very good forum board on his product too. I'm sure this is probably the same with all the controller makers. This is just the experince I have had with Ken's. Love mine and will probably buy more. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok Jim. I have to say I find that hard to believe as every single 210 that is purchased assembled tested is tested on all 3 Ports for proper operations. If lands were missing, it would have never left here. Unless your friend purchased a kit in which case we have no control over its construction, so who knows what may have happened there. But fair enough. Good luck with your endeavors and hope your project goes smoothly Ken At 03:05 PM 8/6/2008, Jim Brown wrote: One last comment Ken, and I won't pester you any more. If a partial trade would be for an RC-210, I am afraid I am not interested. I got the RC-110 that I have from a friend who was anxious to get a repeater on the air and rather than mess with the RC-110, which was not working, he bought an RC-210. When he hooked the RC-210 up he found LANDS MISSING on one of the ports for the audio. It was not just a bad etch, the lands had never been there so far as he could determine. That sure does not speak well of the Quality Assurance for the RC-210 product. I hate to bring all this up, but once bit - twice shy is my motto. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Wed, 8/6/08, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder]SCOM 7330 Question To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 3:11 PM Let's take this offlist. Perhaps we can work something out that is workable for us both (for example, might you be interested in us taking the 110 back in partial trade?) Ken At 01:04 PM 8/6/2008, Jim Brown wrote: Ken, my problem is that when a company sells me something that turns out to be totally useless and then fails to offer any solution or compensation, it is hard for me to have any confidence in their products. I attempted to join the RC-110 Yahoo group twice and both times I was refused entry by the moderator. I thought there I might be able to find out what some other folks were doing to solve the problems. I understand that some technical problems are difficult if not impossible to fix, and that the microprocessor chosen for the RC-110 was a bad choice, but I don't understand the attitude of 'you bought it - now go live with it'. That just does not instill any confidence in that companys products. Sorry - but that is my feeling. 73 - Jim W5ZIT --- On Wed, 8/6/08, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] net wrote: From: Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] net Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SCOM 7330 Question To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com Date: Wednesday, August 6, 2008, 11:29 AM At 08:28 AM 8/6/2008, Jim Brown wrote: I have a commercial application to monitor the battery status and charge current at a solar site and asked for information on controllers that would allow me to monitor these parameters by requesting a voice readback. I was immediately answered by Ken Arch (sp?) and another RC-210 owner with info on the RC-210 capabilitys. As the proud owner of an Arcom RC-110 with it's total lack of support, I am a bit leary of going that road again. ---Hi Jim. I can assure you that support for the RC210 is not only readily available, most of our customers tell us it is exemplary. And while true that we no longer support the RC110 (what happened there is we are totally unable to obtain support for the CPU system which effectively killed the 110), RC210 is available not only from us but from the RC210 mail list in Yahoogroups. With literally hundreds and hundreds of RC210s in use around the entire world, support is quite good from our users as well. Ken - - - - - - President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of
[Repeater-Builder] DB408 / DB420 in the ham band? (was Re: DB314)
Thanks Jeff for the reply. Yeah, know what you mean on the Stationmaster being side mounted. That is something we may consider. http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/2241024_KQ5Kw is the photo website. Use the word magic2006 if it ask for a password. You can see some close ups of that antenna at the top. Jeff, do you know of any commercial vendors that have the ham cut DB antennas? I thought most do not since...I thought...since they were not made anymore. Could be wrong I guess. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] DB408 / DB420 in the ham band? (was Re: DB314)
You gentlemen have really made me think about the pros / cons of the DB314. After talking with my tech partner on this project, I think we are going to go with a DB224 and DB408 or DB420 combo for the remote antenna. It really is overkill for a remote antenna, but since we will be given a Stationmaster with hardline already ran at the top of http://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/AsrSearch/asrRegistration.jsp?regKey=122476 we have a brand new DB224 that would be laying around. Putting that DB224 on the tower would give us a backup antenna if something was to go wrong with the Stationmaster. We don't want to be too greedy with the footprint of this setup since we are already going to put up a DB420 for the UHF repeater. That is the reason for possibly looking at the DB408. I think I know the answer to this already...but is there ANYONE (commercial) that is selling DB408's or DB420's in the ham band? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] DB314
Just got the news that our ARES group has gotten approval on a grant ($) to move our repeaters to another tower. We are planning on using a DB314 as our remote base antenna. We got a quote from these folks; http://shop.industrialpartner.com/A/andrew/db314-a.htm . It was a little more than $1000.00. I think (unfortunately) that is the going price. This quote was back in January. Have to check back with the folks to even see if they have this in stock. When I checked in January...NO ONE else had these. Any suggestions on places to look? I did a Google and found this place. However, couldn't find anyone else. In January, I called Hutton and Tessco and they didn't have one either. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Micor test set question
I am wanting to meter the signal level on my Micor. (to be able to squeeze every drop out the the rx cans) The test set number is TLN1857A and TLN5900A. From what I thought was the correct setting (in position 6 (if you include the -4 and +4 as 2) or set on the number 5) and show no change in the metering when a weaker signal comes in. It pretty much stays on about 44uA. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor test set question
Ok on both from both Kevin's. Do have a preamp in line. Will try it out. Now...can the test set not be used as a scale with a weak signal to touch up the rx side of the dup.s? Not wanting to mess with the front end of the receiver. Are you also saying I should see something on meter setting 4+? Is tweaking the cans not possible with the test set? Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted to buy: Panasonic CF-25 laptop or equivalent for radio programmming
What did you do to get the usb port to be recognized? Seems like you have to have it seen before you could use that. Robert ps Really don't want to have to get rid of it, but 3 repeater projects are draining my resources right now ;-) Great laptop to grab and go on repeaters though. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've done it several times using this method - works every time. First I use a DOS floppy to FDISK and format the drive in the laptop. This way the partition table is set the way the laptop BIOS will expect it. Then I remove the drive from the laptop and connect it to my $40 universal drive gimmick: http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=1501sku=30504 A better photo that shows the included double-headed power supply and ]the SATA cable is here: http://www.cablestogo.com/hi-res_image.asp?sku=30504image=30504-A.jpg Then I copy the installation CD to the hard drive into a directory that says what it is... W98CD, W98SECD, NT4CD, W2KCD, never use the name Windows, WinNT, or Win32 Then reinstall the drive into the laptop, boot into DOS from a floppy and install from C:\whatever-your-directory-name-is\setup.exe That little USB drive adapter is a lifesaver. Disclaimer: I have no relationship to Cables To Go other than as a satisfied repeat customer for over 10 years (my first purchase was a 386-33 motherboard). Mike WA6ILQ At 06:12 AM 06/17/08, you wrote: A simple solution to your dilemma is to pull the drive and connect it with a $12.00 adapter to a modern 3.5 ide drive bay desktop computer, format the drive as fat32,copy the win98se directory off of the cdrom to the 2.5 laptop drive.. stick the laptop drive back into the laptop.. boot from a dos boot floppy made in xp, and execute the setup program on the hard drive in the windows directory... you do not need the cdrom if you have all the cab files Most decent computer stores offer 2.5 (laptop) drive adapters either to USB or IDE so you can connect them to a standard desktop to work on them or copy to/from... My CF-27 has no cdrom, but XP can be loaded in a similar process more or less, however the folder involved is the I386 folder from the install cd... The CF27 will take a lot bigger drive than 2 gigs. I think mine is a 60 split in 2 partitionsOne DOS fat32, on XP NTFS Doug KD8B At 07:21 PM 6/15/2008, you wrote: Have you found one yet? *I May* have a CF27 up for sale. Bought it ironically at a hamfest 2 weekends ago here in ATL. I LOVE the laptop. The only thing is that I am having a heck of a time getting at least Win98 on the drive. No CD drive. USB drive though. It came with a drive that had Lynx (sp?)on it that was not really functioning. Needed something to use with the program to program the Arcom RC210 with. Everything seems to work on it, but the drive did take a dive. I had another drive (2gig) Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted to buy: Panasonic CF-25 laptop or equivalent for radio programmming
Have you found one yet? *I May* have a CF27 up for sale. Bought it ironically at a hamfest 2 weekends ago here in ATL. I LOVE the laptop. The only thing is that I am having a heck of a time getting at least Win98 on the drive. No CD drive. USB drive though. It came with a drive that had Lynx (sp?)on it that was not really functioning. Needed something to use with the program to program the Arcom RC210 with. Everything seems to work on it, but the drive did take a dive. I had another drive (2gig) that seems to work...if I could get it loaded with something! ;-) I was putting the drive into another computer to get something that would give me a usb port driver. Unfortunately I needed at least Win95b...and it was just a comedy of errors (and 29 disk later). I have $50. in it. I let it go for that with whatever shipping cost. I think I have some bubble wrap and boxes that might fit it. Battery seems to hold a couple of hours (I think...never timed it when it died). Brand new supply that works fine. I have another laptop that has a cd drive, built in speakers (would like to hear tail beeps, etc thru it before loading it), etc. I hate to part with it, but at this point...if I can get this pent.90 Toshiba to work...I am going with this. Will know probably in a couple of days. Let me know if your interested. Otherwise going to put it on Ebay...and know I will get more for it ;-) 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Wade [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Good evening everyone, Subject says it all. Thought I had one lined up but the seller flaked. Need a CF-25 Toughbook or equivalent to program my MT-1000 and Spectras. Let me know what you've got plus shipping to 95608. Thanks! Dennis -- Dennis L. Wade KG6ZI Carmichael, CA
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wanted to buy: Panasonic CF-25 laptop or equivalent for radio programmming
Sorry about that! Sometimes you just wish to reach into cyberspace and grab em' before they go Meant to send that direct. Sorry, rb --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have you found one yet? *I May* have a CF27 up for sale. Bought it ironically at a hamfest 2 weekends ago here in ATL. I LOVE the laptop. The only thing is that I am having a heck of a time getting at least Win98 on the drive. No CD drive. USB drive though. It came with a drive that had Lynx (sp?)on it that was not really functioning. Needed something to use with the program to program the Arcom RC210 with. Everything seems to work on it, but the drive did take a dive. I had another drive (2gig) that seems to work...if I could get it loaded with something! ;-) I was putting the drive into another computer to get something that would give me a usb port driver. Unfortunately I needed at least Win95b...and it was just a comedy of errors (and 29 disk later). I have $50. in it. I let it go for that with whatever shipping cost. I think I have some bubble wrap and boxes that might fit it. Battery seems to hold a couple of hours (I think...never timed it when it died). Brand new supply that works fine. I have another laptop that has a cd drive, built in speakers (would like to hear tail beeps, etc thru it before loading it), etc. I hate to part with it, but at this point...if I can get this pent.90 Toshiba to work...I am going with this. Will know probably in a couple of days. Let me know if your interested. Otherwise going to put it on Ebay...and know I will get more for it ;-) 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Wade sacramento.cyclist@ wrote: Good evening everyone, Subject says it all. Thought I had one lined up but the seller flaked. Need a CF-25 Toughbook or equivalent to program my MT-1000 and Spectras. Let me know what you've got plus shipping to 95608. Thanks! Dennis -- Dennis L. Wade KG6ZI Carmichael, CA
[Repeater-Builder] TX RX T-Pass Question
I have 2 repeaters that I am going to put on one antenna. I have been given a set of TX RX T-Pass cavities Model # 21.70.02 w/24 vdc Loop Amp. There are 4 cans in all that I have. 2 of them are strapped together. (saying this...because I am not sure if I have 2 sets or if both make ONE) I am studying this page right now; http://www.repeater-builder.com/tx-rx/tx-rx-t-pass-expandable-cavity-multicoupler-cavity-system.pdf Is it one set TX and one for RX? If that is the case, I will have to do some juggling with my cabinet setup. I am already in a 5ft cabinet and having to stack a 3ft cabinet on it's side on top ;-) I don't have any cables on the cavities. I have some RG214, FSJ4-50B and FSJ1-50A. Which should I use and at what lengths? The repeaters are on 442.500 and 444.600. I would love any info that anyone could share on this. I will add though, that the 444.600 repeater at this site will be a Hot backup and not always on line. This is in case the OTHER 444.600 across the county goes down at any time. Since it is a remote base for the NWS and some repeaters tie into it (their remotes are rock bound), we need this type of setup. We also cannot get into the facility 24/7 either. Maybe a type of dowkey relay(s) system instead? The 442.500 repeater could go off the air if the backup 444.600 needed to go on. Any suggestions on either would be appreciated. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Sinclair A307B Pre-Amp?
Does anyone know anything about this thing? It has a transistor in it - NEC 74030. Google can't find either. Looking at it on the scope...looks to have something like 12,14,16 db gain? Could be wrong on that. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question
Well I thought the same thing. I have a db408 that I have treated with plastic dip AND liquid tape. Long story but have several layers (about 3 or 4) of this stuff on there. Each layer I allowed to dry before putting on the next. In the pictures you can see that every joint (metal to metal) is protected by this stuff. I also went up the dipoles far enough for any possible egress of moisture. Might not be pretty, but think it will work. The pics are taken with the antenna temporarily on the side of my tower (not hooked up yet). http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0GEcSFgRqZpJVmTlqpB72pv8w7tAZtRcCcnp5vmv6qVr44p8O-ZFzec_HaY2Ga6TgV2Yj_3lzSUfcMnhJ3JGc57pcJsE-k5gcErJ/pix/IMG_1277.JPG http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0GEcSHs2jQFJVmTl6X_XYxKmmCUXuduBzeXqkRzKHC6GBZz7otBoFOgQDzYeQt3Umjq9dbwHhiGcSIrqsKi9wt2JEamLwVt1E_-7/pix/IMG_1278.JPG (remember, you might have to copy and paste it) This antenna has the bracing that wraps around the pipe, not the hose clamp style dipoles. So I drilled through the metal straps and into the pipe. After that I riveted each strap into the pipe. Waiting for my contractor to get the go ahead from the county to replace a Diamond UHF antenna. 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Craig [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Paul and others: Other than using Scotchkote has anyone used DIP-IT which is that plastic coating sold in cans designed for dipping tools into to build up a rubber coating on them. Like the scotchkote you would probably have to put sveral coats on, but since it's a rubber base it may last longer than the Scotchkote which harderns. Craig --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Finch dpaulfinch@ wrote: Ron, ... The second part of making a new DB folded dipole antenna last is sealing every nook and cranny of the antenna with 3M Scotchkote. I paint at least two coats on every screwhead, coax end, nut, plastic molded junction and anything that could be a point of bimetal corrosion or coax water leak. If I could dip it in Scotchkote I would. ...
[Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question
Someone else told me that after I had put a whole can of dip it on the db408 I showed you. I went back and covered every inch of it with liquid electrical tape. I have had good results in the GA sun with it. 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You don't have to use Scotchkote... it's just easy to find, well known and well trusted as a solution sealer. Dip-it breaks down pretty fast and I'm sure the sun would probably beat it up pretty bad. There are other sealers that work well... but Scotchkote is the most practical answer for most of the common projects where it fits well. cheers, s. Craig kec@ wrote: Paul and others: Other than using Scotchkote has anyone used DIP-IT which is that plastic coating sold in cans designed for dipping tools into to build up a rubber coating on them. Like the scotchkote you would probably have to put sveral coats on, but since it's a rubber base it may last longer than the Scotchkote which harderns. Craig --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Finch dpaulfinch@ wrote: Ron, ... The second part of making a new DB folded dipole antenna last is sealing every nook and cranny of the antenna with 3M Scotchkote. I paint at least two coats on every screwhead, coax end, nut, plastic molded junction and anything that could be a point of bimetal corrosion or coax water leak. If I could dip it in Scotchkote I would. ...
[Repeater-Builder] ADI 247 for a link radio - Fixed!
Isn't it terrible when you get a project halfway done and then have to walk away from it for months...then come back to it and try to start where you left off ;-) Not sure what I was thinking...but I had already ran a wire from the wiper on the deviation pot...to Pin 5 on the radio. I had gone in and cut the up / dwn pin traces on the board. That was I could use those pins for different things like COS or TX Audio to the deviation pot. In doing this I was able to to bring everything out through the mic plug. I think part of the loading and or audio issues was my wiring for that TX Audio was actually connected to the tone board wiring. Not sure what was going on, but lifted that wire off...connected to the RIGHT tx audio wire...and out comes great audio. Thanks for everyones help. 73, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ADI 247 for a link radio
Hi Paul (and everyone else that has responded), Thanks for the replies. You mentioning about damaging equipment was exactly why I didn't finish this project back at the end of the summer. Instead of using my magnifying light / glass...I tried changing the ctcss or the cos point (can't remember which right now...) at the shack. Not good. The radio went to my local repair guy to be fixed. Was using the schematic at home ;-) I think I am however going to try (tomorrow night) to go into the center wiper on the deviation pot...and see what results I get with that. I think Skip mentioned about opening up the mike. It is just a cheap mike I picked up at a hamfest. Really has better sound than the tinny sounding mike the radio came with. I thinking (and hope)honestly it will make a good and cheap link radio that will stand up to the talk our local Skywarn nets get into. Hope you guys up in VA are ok! Saw you on the news tonight. 73 and let everyone know how the deviation dig goes. Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Plack [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, Haste in creating a soultion to a problem such as this often results in frustration. Years ago, I damaged a piece of equipment in much the same way you did here, looking for a place to tack-solder a lead that would allow me to interface to COS. Had I started with a schematic, and found a few reasonable places to start looking, and finished with a proper connector to get it through the case, I would have saved myself aggravation, time and money. Sometimes starting with equipment on-hand is more expensive than buying something stout from the surplus commercial world, where everything you need is brought out to a connector. (Or, at least documented on the web.) Making assumptions about the ADI based on experience with the Kenwood is also likely to be unproductive. ADI is all about hitting a price point, which may lead to compromises Kenwood doesn't have to make. See if you can find a schematic for the ADI, or find another radio for which documentation is available. It will save you guessing what the ADI is looking for... 73, Paul, AE4KR _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 8:19 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ADI 247 for a link radio Ok. Put the little op-amp together via the Repeater Builder website. http://www.repeater http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/audioamp.html -builder.com/rbtip/audioamp.html I did the one with the 15k resistor and .0047uf cap. Couldn't tell you what pot I used. Grabbed one and threw it on. Going to look thru my junk later this week and get a 10 or 50k and try it. Because the audio is still real low and REAL distorted. However...with what Ron said...made me think about what another friend of mine said. Isn't the ADI looking for something like 600ohms? (like a hand mic would be) Much different than an 8 ohm speaker. This same setup works with a TM-G707 without any matching...why shouldn't it work with the ADI? Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@ mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ wrote: Started a project at the end of LAST summer and never got finished. Using a ADI247 as a 220mhz link radio. Blew something up in it (in looking for cos), sent it off, got fixed, now just getting back to the project. *I Thought* I had decent tx audio out of it into the RC210 controller hooked to it. However now I barely get a whisper out of my tx audio. I can hook a mic to it...no problem with the audio, works fine. Almost sounds like an impedance mismatch. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] ADI 247 for a link radio
Started a project at the end of LAST summer and never got finished. Using a ADI247 as a 220mhz link radio. Blew something up in it (in looking for cos), sent it off, got fixed, now just getting back to the project. *I Thought* I had decent tx audio out of it into the RC210 controller hooked to it. However now I barely get a whisper out of my tx audio. I can hook a mic to it...no problem with the audio, works fine. Almost sounds like an impedance mismatch. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ADI 247 for a link radio
Eric, I was actually thinking of some 600 to 1 transformer. Your thinking a opamp / preamp would work? Really didn't think about giving it more audio level. Now I am speaking of the TX audio, not RX. So it is really what the RC210 is offering...not what the ADI is offering. Eric...you still think it needs an opamp?? Thanks for the reply, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, I agree- and the audio level needed by the RC210 is probably much greater than what the radio has to offer. An opamp should work for you. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 10:29 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ADI 247 for a link radio Started a project at the end of LAST summer and never got finished. Using a ADI247 as a 220mhz link radio. Blew something up in it (in looking for cos), sent it off, got fixed, now just getting back to the project. *I Thought* I had decent tx audio out of it into the RC210 controller hooked to it. However now I barely get a whisper out of my tx audio. I can hook a mic to it...no problem with the audio, works fine. Almost sounds like an impedance mismatch. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: ADI 247 for a link radio
Ok. Put the little op-amp together via the Repeater Builder website. http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/audioamp.html I did the one with the 15k resistor and .0047uf cap. Couldn't tell you what pot I used. Grabbed one and threw it on. Going to look thru my junk later this week and get a 10 or 50k and try it. Because the audio is still real low and REAL distorted. However...with what Ron said...made me think about what another friend of mine said. Isn't the ADI looking for something like 600ohms? (like a hand mic would be) Much different than an 8 ohm speaker. This same setup works with a TM-G707 without any matching...why shouldn't it work with the ADI? Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Started a project at the end of LAST summer and never got finished. Using a ADI247 as a 220mhz link radio. Blew something up in it (in looking for cos), sent it off, got fixed, now just getting back to the project. *I Thought* I had decent tx audio out of it into the RC210 controller hooked to it. However now I barely get a whisper out of my tx audio. I can hook a mic to it...no problem with the audio, works fine. Almost sounds like an impedance mismatch. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Delayed PTT on Micor
I am having an issue with a Micor Station and a RC210. Don't think it is the controller though (just for info). I have done the audio squelch mod on the v/s board. When keyed by a signal on the input, I see the controller receive the COS and CTCSS. However the PTT is delayed in keying. This also varies in length of time to key up. Sounds like a cap. but not sure where to look. Micor squelch circuit seems to be working nicely :-) Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Delayed PTT on Micor
Sorry...should have mentioned all cards are pulled except the station control card. Mod done on that to. rb --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am having an issue with a Micor Station and a RC210. Don't think it is the controller though (just for info). I have done the audio squelch mod on the v/s board. When keyed by a signal on the input, I see the controller receive the COS and CTCSS. However the PTT is delayed in keying. This also varies in length of time to key up. Sounds like a cap. but not sure where to look. Micor squelch circuit seems to be working nicely :-) Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TS64 and Micor Repeater Station
Hi Scott, I think you mean J5 pin 29 (PL Input). Ironically, tried that. I turned the deviation up...and can hear the tone. Don't have a scope, but did use a AC voltmeter and saw about a volt..so know the tone is working (encode). Now...did not tie together pin 10 (which is what I think you are saying I needed to do?). Not sure which pin 10 you are referring to...sorry :-( Which one? Thanks, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Look at the output of the TS-64 with a scope to be sure you are indeed getting tone from the unit. I always inject my encode tone into the CTCSS input on the exciter. This can be done through pin 29 where the exciter interconnect board meets the backplane (J2?). You may need to modify your exciter to get the signal the whole way that it needs to go. Some exciters have a wire to carry the signal, some don't. If you look in the station manual, J2? pin 29 connects to pin 5? of the exciter. This pin is normally not used. Connect it with a wire to pin 10? (center pin on the three pin side where the OEM encoder would plug on) Sorry about not knowing the exact pin numbers. My manual is not with me at the moment. Good Luck, Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 6:55 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] TS64 and Micor Repeater Station I am having trouble getting the TS64 to encode correctly thru a Micor Repeater. I have tried TB3 20 Mic Hi - Untouched, J5 24 and 29 (PL In Tone and Xmit Input/Mic Hi/Repeat Audio). I have tried this with a 100k resistor in series and other various resistor values in series. I have also even tried .01 and other value cap.s in series and to ground. The orange (PTT Input) is grounded. Decode is working fine. Nothing is strapped down on the TS64. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1308 - Release Date: 3/3/2008 10:01 AM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TS64 and Micor Repeater Station
Is that going to be pin 29 on J5 PL Input??? You can then study the exciter pcb, and trace that pin back to the main exciter pins which plug into the transmit interconnect board. Ok, think that is it then. If it is connected (not disconnected as you said some are)...I guess that is why I am hearing the pl??? Or could it be leaking thru something else? the PL input pin (where it plugs into the transmitter interconnect board) and the actual injection point circuitry. So the sure-thing method is to just try the 6 or 8 pins where the factory encoder plugs in. You'll find the right pin with a few pokes. Hope so. I was hoping to get everything off of the backplane. Guess I might have to tear into the exciter??? Maybe someone will chime in with the correct pin #s from the manual. Eric KE2D Thanks guys... Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright mccrpt@ wrote: Robert, Make sure you are inserting CTCSS tone at proper place on the Micor. Since low freq most all TXs have dedicated input in exciter for PL tone insertion. The Micor does. Also 100 k is very high. Would recommend something less than 5 k. Want hurt anything here...might not work, but no harm/smoke. Forget any caps to ground...maybe one in series, but only to AC couple. Need big one, 10 uf, since low freq. However, I don't think you need one. 73, ron, n9ee/r From: georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ Date: 2008/03/05 Wed PM 05:55:01 CST To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] TS64 and Micor Repeater Station I am having trouble getting the TS64 to encode correctly thru a Micor Repeater. I have tried TB3 20 Mic Hi - Untouched, J5 24 and 29 (PL In Tone and Xmit Input/Mic Hi/Repeat Audio). I have tried this with a 100k resistor in series and other various resistor values in series. I have also even tried .01 and other value cap.s in series and to ground. The orange (PTT Input) is grounded. Decode is working fine. Nothing is strapped down on the TS64. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC Ron Wright, N9EE 727-376-6575 MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL No tone, all are welcome.
[Repeater-Builder] TS64 and Micor Repeater Station
I am having trouble getting the TS64 to encode correctly thru a Micor Repeater. I have tried TB3 20 Mic Hi - Untouched, J5 24 and 29 (PL In Tone and Xmit Input/Mic Hi/Repeat Audio). I have tried this with a 100k resistor in series and other various resistor values in series. I have also even tried .01 and other value cap.s in series and to ground. The orange (PTT Input) is grounded. Decode is working fine. Nothing is strapped down on the TS64. Ideas? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] WTB Used RC 210
Don't laugh. Too many project to finance :-( Need the rack mount too. Email me direct. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] battery backup board for micor power supply?
Is there such a beast? What is the number for that? I have a TPN1110B power supply. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: battery backup board for micor power supply?
Scott, Maybe I am confused...I thought that was the power supply? (the # number I gave) Are you connecting a battery to that 9.6v? Sorry for being dense ;-) Thanks and 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is none that I know of. The battery backup option was usually provided in the power supply, NOT the station chassis itself. On several that I have done that need battery backup, I have attached a 7809 9V regulator with a 1N4001 diode in series with the ground terminal to boost the voltage to around 9.6V. I have often thought of building this onto a card that would plug into one of the card slots, but I never had the time. This would create a situation like the GE station's 10V regulator card. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 474 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 6:26 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] battery backup board for micor power supply? Is there such a beast? What is the number for that? I have a TPN1110B power supply. Thanks, Robert Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008 12:19 PM
[Repeater-Builder] spacing of a db408 for omni
I have looked at Skipp's drawing on the website; http://www.repeater-builder.com/db/db-408-b.pdf Also looked at the omni setup on; http://www.repeater-builder.com/db/db-408-instruction-sheet.pdf Couple of questions. It looks like between dipoles #2 and #3 it is 31. Is this going to be the same if it is setup for omni? In the above pdf it looks like spacing is even and even mentions spaced evenly...but then mentions every 90 deg. (meaning the facing). Keep the odd spacing and just face them at a 90 deg offset? Also...I am using a longer pipe than the normal pipe for the db408. Will it matter if it is not 11 3/16 from the top? Going to be strapping them down today. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: star washers on db antennas
I have checked at 3 Ace's, 2 Home Depot's, and 1 Lowe's in the south metro Atlanta area. They have zinc, but not stainless. Thanks though for all the great suggestions. Again I have found a great source for parts local to me (Aircraft Spruce). They were actually cheaper than the big box stores and had great cleaning products as well. Thanks and 73, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Steve Glatzel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You are passing up a great resource, ACE Hardware, they have huge assortments of this tryp of hardware both in METRIC and SAE, of all types of alloys, both steel, aluminum, stainless and copper. Don't overlook it for convience and the ability to pick your own part. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:Robert - McMaster-Carr is a very good source. Their HQ offices and regional warehouse are in Elmhurst, IL -- within 1 mile of my QTH ... SO I drive over to the Will Call window and pick-up my order the same day (spoils me) !!! However, some itmes are a minimum quantity size of 100. In these cases, I use Small Parts in Florida. http://www.smallparts.com/ They have a wide assortment of parts. I can ususally order in single or qty 10 .. which is more reasonable for less used items. Greg w9gb == Robert, Stainless steel lock washers, including the star variety, are very easy to find- you just need to get them from an industrial supplier. My favorite source is McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com [snip] Go to the above Web site, and enter star washers in the find products window. Then select stainless steel and go from there. I have found stainless steel U-bolts, threaded rod, Uni-Strut, and all sorts of oddball hardware there. I'll admit that McMaster-Carr prices are a bit high on some items, but the convenience of ordering hard-to-find items online is worth it. [snip] 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY - Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: star washers on db antennas
Not at my local Lowes. Not at Home Depot either. However great responses...and I guess the answer is Yes you need to use stainless over zinc steel. I was thinking the weather proofing would help...but...guess stainless is still needed. Mm. Didn't think about boating stores. Maybe West Marine might have it as well. Think there is one close. Thanks!! Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Maire-Radios [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Lowes has some
[Repeater-Builder] star washers on db antennas
Can someone tell me Are these things stainless or zinc? Stainless star washers sure are hard to find :-( Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: New db314?
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We are putting together a grant proposal and looking for any place that is selling a NEW db314. Tessco and Hutton doesn't have any in stock. Have found one place called Vox Technologies in Texas. They have them in stock for $1,025.95. Would be nice to get one on the ham band...but I guess I will keep dreaming. Any ideas and / or know anything about Vox Tech? Thanks and 73, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Comprod dual band commercial antennas (Was - Re: New db314?)
Very interesting. I especially like the harness inside the pipe. Looking at these, I guess there are different versions of this design. First I have seen of them. Which version did you get and could it be configured for omni configuration (I see some of the single band versions can)? You mentioned it was a dogbone pattern...is this what you found out or is this specs from the company. Looks like you could order it with the movable loops. Also what was the cost this company charged you? Thanks, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am not sure they still make the 314. I have tried to get one and Tessco is checking on it. However, a company called Comprod makes one very like it. However, it is NOT an omni pattern. It is a dogbone pattern. They did make a special one for me that has an omni, but it was quite a bit more. They are a Canadian Company with offices in New York state. They will make just about anything you want for a price. Check them out. Ask for Jim Gilbert (no relation to me that I know of). They also make very nice duplexers and combiners. Paul Gilbert, KE5ZW TxDOT Austin, Texas On Jan 20, 2008 9:04 AM, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ wrote: We are putting together a grant proposal and looking for any place that is selling a NEW db314. Tessco and Hutton doesn't have any in stock. Have found one place called Vox Technologies in Texas. They have them in stock for $1,025.95. Would be nice to get one on the ham band...but I guess I will keep dreaming. Any ideas and / or know anything about Vox Tech? Thanks and 73, Robert Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] New db314?
We are putting together a grant proposal and looking for any place that is selling a NEW db314. Tessco and Hutton doesn't have any in stock. Have found one place called Vox Technologies in Texas. They have them in stock for $1,025.95. Would be nice to get one on the ham band...but I guess I will keep dreaming. Any ideas and / or know anything about Vox Tech? Thanks and 73, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Micor Compa-Station Mods
I have a read over the mods in; http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/stationmod.html and also; http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#ANY-Station Have had done; http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/stationcontrol.html This is a UHF machine on 444.600/449.600. I will be using a Arcom RC210, but want to be able to use the stock controller on the station in a crunch. I will also be using the stock pl boards on the station. What other mods need to be done taking in consideration for using the above setup. Would love to have the best setup possible since I will ultimately have limited access to this machine when in place. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] FS: Moto stuff
Cleaning out my garage of some stuff and am going to be listing some of this stuff on Ebay if I don't get takers here. 1) Moto Spectra Mod.# TA3GX+078W ID#-T83GXA7HA3AK (Main unit or body only - no head, mic or other cables) Was told this was a 110watt vhf rig. Not sure if it works or not. Have no way of testing it. 2) Moto Spectra Mod.#D45KGA5JC7AK same ID #. (Mani unit or body only - no head, mic or other cables) Was told this was a 45watt dash mount 800mhz trunking mobile. No way to test, so am not sure if it works or not. 3) Moto STX-821 HT - No battery with it, but it does power up and shows Fire, Admin, and Marshall. Keyed it a year or so ago...and DID key a repeater at that time. Have 2 mics I'll include, one has a coiled cord and one has a straight cord with an little ht antenna and another switch on it. All will be sold as is. You pay shipping (actual cost) Can take pics if you wish. Will take offers before putting up on Ebay. EMAIL ME DIRECT FOR OTHER QUESTIONS. kd4ydc at juno dot com Thanks and 73, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Best way to check a db products harness?
What is the best way to check a db products harness (db224 or db408, db420)? I know you could hook the thing up to a swr meter, maybe with a vom. I guess also see if the thing duplexs well...but is there a better way? Also of course visual inspection. Ideas? 73 Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Best way to check a db products harness?
Huh? Not sure how that will help me check it, unless your talking about buying new. We are working on grants, since this is the remote base for the Peachtree City GA NWS...but just in case. Also...too nice of a setup to just trash since we would or could get new. 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, de W5DK [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Be a 501c3 organization with insurance. Get a letter from the local NOAA office stating how the hams help during weather disasters. If you do community service for walks, runs and bike rides(heart association, ADA. Etc) get a letter from them also. Be professional and write a letter. Tell them you don't interfere with any other service and can't make cent on the system, that you use commercial gear. etc. Or the insider deal is easier. HI 73 Don W5DK From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Parker Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 8:59 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Best way to check a db products harness? We physically examine the connections and elements. Next we disconnect all the ring terminals. We take the N Connectors off and check the harness for leakage using the x1000 ohm scale. If all the above looks good, then it's time to cross your fingers and hook it up and see how it looks. georgiaskywarn wrote: What is the best way to check a db products harness (db224 or db408, db420)? I know you could hook the thing up to a swr meter, maybe with a vom. I guess also see if the thing duplexs well...but is there a better way? Also of course visual inspection. Ideas? 73 Robert
[Repeater-Builder] db314?
Anybody bought a new db314 lately? Can't find it on some of the online catalogs. Working on a grant. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Anybody bought a db314 lately?
Curious where and cost. Also what diplexers did you use? Working on a grant for the repeater. 73 Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Antenna standoff recomendations
Hi Folks, Before looking on Hutton and Tessco (others?) sites, wanted to ask the group about some recommendations for a new site. Looking for a antenna standoff for the db224 and db420 antennas. Standoff MUST be able to stand off about 6ft min. from the tower. The tower is a Rohn SSV tower. The standoff *may* be mounted on the 5.5 pipe, however it may be on the smaller pipe (gets smaller as it gets higher). Also will be needing the sway bar for that length as well. Any recommendations before digging into the catalogs. Going to be making recommendations to our group that will be doing the grant writing for our repeaters going up. Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS in Peachtree City, GA. www.georgiaskywarn.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna standoff recomendations
6 feet was actually recommended by the site super. I have not ran the numbers yet, but will to see the different wave lengths out from the tower. On this site; http://disneycrazy.smugmug.com/gallery/2241024 (password is magic2006) you will see the old site and the new site. The db420 at the top side of the Rohn45 was out 4ft from the tower. The new site shows some verticles at 6ft from the tower. Another site I am on has several db224's out from the tower at least 6ft. Just starting to look and appreciate all of your comments. 73, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, An offset of six feet is going to require some pretty hefty support members. Check out the mounting hardware shown for the DB224 and DB228 on the Andrew catalog page: www.andrew.com/catalog/product.aspx?id=135ShowObsolete=falsefilter=466|3| |0|| or use this TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/yvpqs6 Once that you find out that the side-mounting hardware might cost more than the antenna, and you start thinking about making your own side mount out of Unistrut, make sure everything is as corrosion-proof as possible. The lateral pipes or struts and clamps should be hot-dip galvanized. Bolts, nuts, and washers should be high-strength stainless steel if not hot-dip galvanized. If the tower you will use is at one side of the intended coverage area, think about arranging the dipole elements in an offset configuration. This will allow you to use the tower as part of the pattern shaping, and will greatly reduce the distance from the tower. It also reduces the moment arm of the antenna, and the resulting twist of the tower. Contact Andrew Tech Support for guidance on side-mounting the DB224 and DB228. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of georgiaskywarn Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 10:22 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna standoff recomendations Hi Folks, Before looking on Hutton and Tessco (others?) sites, wanted to ask the group about some recommendations for a new site. Looking for a antenna standoff for the db224 and db420 antennas. Standoff MUST be able to stand off about 6ft min. from the tower. The tower is a Rohn SSV tower. The standoff *may* be mounted on the 5.5 pipe, however it may be on the smaller pipe (gets smaller as it gets higher). Also will be needing the sway bar for that length as well. Any recommendations before digging into the catalogs. Going to be making recommendations to our group that will be doing the grant writing for our repeaters going up. Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS in Peachtree City, GA. www.georgiaskywarn.com
[Repeater-Builder] db408 and db224 together
Anyone tried mounting both of these on one mast before? Would like to close the spacing down on the db224, but not sure how much (and I am sure it will) it would effect the tuning of the antenna. How about half of a db224 and a db408 on one mast. Half of a db304 is hard to find ;-) Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: db408 and db224 together
That is interesting Jim. Had a friend of mine mention toying with the exact setup as you described. What problems did you run into with the diplexer? Really don't think we will be able to run a second line. Also curious as to what size tower you were on. This is going on a Rohn SSV (I think that is it. Pretty big tripod type of free standing tower). Curious how far out from the tower it was. Thanks! Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, I have a DB-224 with a DB-? (four bays high with opposed dipoles at each bay) 440 antenna operating on the same mast, and have had good results. I first tried it with a diplexer up at the antenna and a single feedline, but had problems with that set up. When I went to separate feedlines I had much better results. I had a two meter and a 440 repeater on the antennas, and later had a 440 repeater with a 2 meter remote base. The usual problems with harmonics of the 2 meter remote base getting into the 440 repeater occur, but that would be a problem anyway. The DB-224 is spaced normal, and the 440 antenna is at the top part of the mast. 73 - Jim W5ZIT georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone tried mounting both of these on one mast before? Would like to close the spacing down on the db224, but not sure how much (and I am sure it will) it would effect the tuning of the antenna. How about half of a db224 and a db408 on one mast. Half of a db304 is hard to find ;-) Thanks, Robert - Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now.
[Repeater-Builder] Every built a 2 / 440 coax colinear antenna
Curious if anyone has built one for 2/440 version. Even better...a 2/220/440 :-) Would be interested in using 1/2 hardline as well. I know there are tons of single band ones around. I wonder how well these would duplex on a repeater as well. 73 and Happy Thanksgiving, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Station Exciter
Makes sense. I have been looking for the numbers to match up freq.s Have a hamfest coming up and could pick one up. What are the numbers that I need to be looking for? Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor Station Exciter
How about the band pass, doubler/trippler and other stuff. Is there any need or mods needed? I found http://www.repeater-builder.com/micor/micor-uhf-conv/micor-uhf-conv.html to mod the 450 to 470mhz down to the L range (406 to 420) but not up. Still learning the moto stuff...so forgive my questions. Hopefully this will help others in the same shoes later. 73 and txns, Robert KD4YDC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Makes sense. I have been looking for the numbers to match up freq.s Have a hamfest coming up and could pick one up. What are the numbers that I need to be looking for? Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Micor Station Exciter
Hi Folks, Have a problem with a Micor Station tonight. Have a Micor that was on 409.600T / 407.275R . It was working great on those freq.s before pulling the elements and sending them off to ICS. New elements (old ones were stolen in route!) with 444.600T / 449.600R in and ready to go. Receiver tuned fine. (slugs out awful far) Transmitter is a little harder. I have gotten all the way down to the exciter output. (step 11 and 12) No go. Not sure if it is just too far down or what. The board is TLD5491A3. Is there any changes or mods need to be done to make it happen on 444.600mhz? Thanks, Robert ps Will be using a RC210 on this...any suggestions there would be appreciated :-)
[Repeater-Builder] Repacking an antenna into a commercial radome
Has anyone ever done this? Unfortunately the radome I was playing with this weekend had no room to push the bottom of the Diamond x3200 past the sleeve at the bottom. This is a Andrews 900mhz antenna (or the radome of). SWR was pretty high within the new radome. Put it back in the old one...swr was ok...but not great. Compromise antenna anyway ;-) Curious if anyone has ran into this and what you did for the coupling sleeve...or if it was just the radome itself. I have an older type of Stationmaster I could use...but man is it long compared to the x3200. Thought about using the Canusa (http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/canusa.html http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/canusa.html ) that Kevin spoke of before like a big condom on the thing. Anyone tried that with success?
[Repeater-Builder] Rebuilding a ham grade antenna in a commercial radome
Hi Folks, Getting ready to gut a old UHF...Station Master Style antenna and put the guts of a Diamond X3200A (think that is it...2/220/440) inside it. Has a pretty large coupling (23 1/4 long) with threaded holes for 1/4 radials (little larger than the Diamond). Should I use the same radial length as the Diamond? Was also going to use a pigtail to get above that coupling...will that hurt much of the signal? It is about 5 1/2 longer than the Diamond. Was going to cut it down some and replace the cap on top with another one. It would be a larger cap since the radome tapers from top to bottom. Suggestions? Wasn't sure if a PVC cap would be substantial enough. Hopefully will have time to get pictures as I go as well. 73, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Micor crystals
Hi Folks, Wanting to order crystals for my Micor repeater from ICM, but unfortunately my work schedule and their operating hours is not jiving. I see they have some online stuff, but just not sure what I need to fill out. I found this page, http://icmfg.com/order_tcxos.html but not sure if that is what I need nor what to fill out here. The freq. on the repeater is 444.600 TX and 449.600 RX. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Cleaning of Moto 1500 series cans with Tarn-X (Finale)
Morning Folks, Just wanted to give everyone an update on the cleaning of my Moto 1500 series dup.s. I have to very respectfully now Skipp ;-) . disagree on cleaning of the cans. I know a lot of the Moto techs don't worry about it but I had the fun of working with several cans now that either was cleaned but not properly (by me none the less!), some that were not cleaned and a set that was cleaned to the hilt. All of these cans were on line within the past couple of weeks. Also all of these were put dead on the money with the proper equipment before being put into play. I just really wonder since it is a type of inductor / capacitor. We do live and learn and this was my experience J Easy way to clean these cans and the result was about 80db in separation with no desense. Running about 110 watts into the cans. Works wonderful now. Even with the repeater in a hole 300mw on an ht is not bad. I used Tarn-X and a GARDEN HOSE! In the main part of the cans, pour it in, hold your hand over the open end and slosh it around. Be aware, it will leak out the holes. The more you slosh the more crud will come off. Be sure and use rubber gloves by the way ;-) Also after a 2nd try in cleaning with Tarn-X, I will say follow the directions. DO NOT LET ANY PART BE WET WITH ANY TARN-X FOR EVEN A MINUTE. Also, don't re-use the Tarn-X (over a tub and re-use it). I found it will look uglier than it was before if you re-use the stuff ;-) However, use a small tub to slosh the parts around. Just be sure and pour it out and wash out the tub with a hose after each part. I did find even doing this, some of the Tarn-X did not come off (just a few droplets here and there). Those spots will turn dark and nasty over time. GET IT OFF. Especially if it is on the plunger or fingers. I used forced air to get all the droplets out of the cans and their parts. Then I used a little Brass-O and a Silver/Copper/Brass cleaning cloth (one of those ones that is treated with the chemical stuff and also has a polishing cloth). With the plunger itself, shine, shine and shine! Makes tuning even easier if you do. Do what you can to get all the rust or crud off of the plunger rods. DON'T give them a hose bath they will rust ;-) Coat the threads with a silicon spray as well. I used ACF-50 (http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html) in a light coat over every part of the cans. Don't expect this stuff to dry, it won't. If it is too heavy of a coat, use a light cloth to take off the excess. Also acts as a lubricant on the fingers and plunger. Using the Tarn-X does work great and is MUCH easier than just the brute force of polishing it with Brass-O or something along those lines. 73 and have a great weekend, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB224 Survival in Florida
I have an idea for everyone. I have not tried this yet...so if anyone has...and has had issues...LET US KNOW. I have a db420 that we are putting up on a 300ft tower here in metro ATL. This stuff is not only used on aircrafts, but look down at the very bottom of the page. When shooting Pirates of the Caribbean, they ran into corrosion issues. It's not cheap. I paid $30.50 for a 32oz bottle. However...a very thin film is used. Working on some duplexers now and will be coating them with this stuff. I need my db420 to be on the 20yr plan. Can't afford for this to go bad, espcially for what it will be used for. The gentleman who turned me on to this used this, used it on his private airplane. Said that it actually looks for that corrosin and gets under it. After reading these posts...I may use this stuff on the WHOLE antenna instead of just the connections. 73, Robert www.georgiaskywarn.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cleaning of duplexers...pt 2
Hi Bob, Well...I can dissolving the metal would not be good ;-) The thing that impressed me about the TarnX was that it really got in every nook and cranny...that you can barely get hands into. What about a very deluted solution? I am sure what acid that is TarnX is pretty deluted. Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You just want to remove the tarnish, not dissolve the metal. Muriatic acid is probably way too strong, not to mention toxic, even when you know what you're doing while using it. Depending on how much elbow grease you want to expend (I'm all for soaking the can in some kind of solution) you could also try Noxon metal polish, available in a small green squeeze bottle (smaller than TarnX). You apply some of this with a wet sponge, let it sit a few minutes, then wipe the crud off. Rinse with a clean rag. Apply again if necessary. You may have to rub quite a lot, but at least you won't burn your fingers off. As usual, follow the directions on the container. It works great on most metals: brass, copper, etc. Bob M. == --- georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Had an experience with using TarnX in cleaning some Moto cans. Had a friend of mine that used this with great success. I used it...had issues. The difference is he used running water when I used a pan of water. Didn't clean off very well...so corrosion came on even faster because the Murratic Acid (sp?) didn't clean off very well. Got to thinking (because I have to do this again), why not just use Murratic Acid which is used in pool cleaning products. A gallon of this...deluted...is MUCH cheaper than the smallish bottles of TarnX. Anybody use this before??? 73 Robert __ __ Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cleaning of duplexers...pt 2
Wow that stuff is expensive...when I did a search on it. What were you paying for that. Skipp...I know what you are saying on cleaning of them. I guess I am looking at trying to make the things as clean as possible. You would think that a tuned circuit would have issues with extra stuff collecting inside. However...I bow to the experts on here. That is why I ask the questions ;-) Thanks guys...keep you posted on the progress... Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, crackedofn0de [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, georgiaskywarn kd4ydc@ wrote: Had an experience with using TarnX in cleaning some Moto cans. Had a friend of mine that used this with great success. I used it...had issues. The difference is he used running water when I used a pan of water. Didn't clean off very well...so corrosion came on even faster because the Murratic Acid (sp?) didn't clean off very well. Got to thinking (because I have to do this again), why not just use Murratic Acid which is used in pool cleaning products. A gallon of this...deluted...is MUCH cheaper than the smallish bottles of TarnX. Anybody use this before??? 73 Robert Robert, Try rinsing metal polish away with plain water, then blast the clean surface with contact cleaner and watch the black grime sheet off. I've found that not all contact cleaners are created equal. I've been using WAXIE #410510 which has a high-velocity/high-volume spray. James K7ICU
[Repeater-Builder] Cleaning of Moto 1500 series dup.s
What are some of the methods that you folks have used in cleaning these cans...solvents, any anti-crud stuff afterward? Have any of you used Tarn-X and ACF-50 before? (http://www.corrosion-control.com/acf50.html) Just curious of results. Thanks, Robert
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rohn 25g Tower
On my tower we put the Rohn tower bracket through the wall of the garage. Dug the hole under the bracket. (3 or 4ft?) Stood 20 ft of the tower in the hole and then poured the concrete. 50 ft tower with bracket at 10ft (the above mentioned), then bracketed at 20ft on the 2nd story. 30ft above the house. Good Luck! Robert
[Repeater-Builder] rfprofiler?
Trying to use this program to predict coverage from one site to another. I know a couple of you use this program. Can't get the terrain to show in the Terrain Profile box. Told the folders setting where to go, but still nothing. Ideas? txns, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sidemount dos program
Ironically I have that program (found it when you mentioned the file...funny how you have stuff you don't know what it is on your program ;-). Tried it out and couldn't get past the section wanting the catalog file number. Of course it is on a 800mhz antenna. Don't think however this is the program I was looking for. Don't recall it being restricted to just 800mhz. Thanks though...unless you think this would be helpful for a db420. 73, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've got a couple of disks from the Allen Telecom Group labled DXPLOT Beamtilt Coverage Calculator and PATPLOT Digitized Pattern PLotter. I thought on of those did sidemounted antenna plotting. Can't get either one of them to run on my Windows machine even with a boot from DOS. Randy I am looking for a program, that I had one time, that would give what it thought would be the best guess on how far an antenna should be out from a tower (on certain freq). I don't think it was tplot program. I can remember using this and it gave me a range of distances and such from the tower. Am I dreaming...or is there a program out there like that. It has been years ago...but I thought I used this on the old tower we were on. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Sidemount dos program
I am looking for a program, that I had one time, that would give what it thought would be the best guess on how far an antenna should be out from a tower (on certain freq). I don't think it was tplot program. I can remember using this and it gave me a range of distances and such from the tower. Am I dreaming...or is there a program out there like that. It has been years ago...but I thought I used this on the old tower we were on. Thanks, Robert
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Icom IC-3at as a remote
Hey Mike, That is pretty much what drove me crazy. I had used this ht as a remote before...and it worked! Put away for years, then recently pulled it out to use. There was a mod I did that removed a resistor that isolated the ptt circuit and mike in. Couldn't get the thing to key to save my life. Reconnected that resistor and keyed fine, but lost the mic audio. Turns out it was just that. Moved the ptt line and everything was happy :-) Finally figured it out when I was getting a little audio through...even with the mic audio line disconnected! :-D txns and 73, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike - W5JR (f/k/a N5FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Robert, if you are using the external mic connector to key the radio, you will have to key the mic line by using a resistor to ground versus directly to ground. The radio goes into TX mode when current is pulled through the mic line. If you are paralleling the internal PTT switch, this does not apply. You can search for one of the sites with the old ACC controller info, and there is an appnote on hooking the 2-, 3-, and 4- radios to their units that shows PTT and mic audio connections. ACC used the FC-1 board to interface the controller logic to the radio. Mike - w5jr - via arrl.net - Milton, GA
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Icom IC-3at as a remote
Hey Joe, Thanks for the info. Not really having a problem keying it, just the tx audio sounds real bad (bassy and mushy) and not enough drive. Will take a look on some packet sites though. Txns, Robert --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I used a 4AT for a link transceiver for awhile and I don't remember it being too difficult to interface to my controller. I'll look for any notes that I still may have, but that may take some time. The ham shack is torn apart right now remodeling windows. I remember using a relay to key the HT PT to keep it simple. Look at some of the notes available on interfacing the HT packet radio use. This should answer your question on how to get rid of the 5 volts. I think the MFJ 1270 TNC may have the information in it. 73, Joe, K1ike -- Original message -- From: georgiaskywarn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Has anyone ever done this before on a RC210 before? Any special resistor / cap. combos needed? There is 5v on the tx line. Unfortunately my test bed here at home is a MCC GE Mastr Exec II with the RC100 built in. Don't think it would be the same as the site repeater with the RC210. Any suggestions would be appreciated, 73 Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Icom IC-3at as a remote
Has anyone ever done this before on a RC210 before? Any special resistor / cap. combos needed? There is 5v on the tx line. Unfortunately my test bed here at home is a MCC GE Mastr Exec II with the RC100 built in. Don't think it would be the same as the site repeater with the RC210. Any suggestions would be appreciated, 73 Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] Johnson Fleetcom 559 / Com Spec TS32 / RC 210
Hey Folks, I am in the process of putting a Johnson Fleetcom 559 link radio on a Arcom RC210. Need to install a Com Spec TS32 on it. I use to have a schematic of the radio, but can't find it. Does anyone have one they can scan in for me? Also need connection points of the TS32 to the Fleetcom and *suggested* connection points from the Fleetcom to the RC210. I have some points that I think will work, but without the schematic...kind of taking a best guess at it ;-) Thanks for any suggestions, Robert KD4YDC
[Repeater-Builder] inverter / charger schematic needed
Good Evening, I am looking for a schematic for this; http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2000-DUAL-SYSTEM-POWER-INVERTER-W-CHARGER_W0QQitemZ5811686193QQihZ002QQcategoryZ85805QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem I have seen this unit go by PowerExpress as well. Thanks, Robert KD4YDC
