The tighter ...the better. Spit/GT6 seats are infamously
lacking support... under your butt, and behind your back.
Buy a few rubber bungy cords...not the cloth/elastic types
and add a few straps even. I added dense foam up the middle
to act as a lumbar support.
If your old straps are
Larry...yes they do make them.
I've put pertronix in nearly every spit I've ever owned.
The LU-141 and LU-142 fit the 25D and 45D dist bodies.
Regardless of EID or CID, both elec dist styles put on late
1500 Triumphs can use Pertronix modules.
One of the $$ cheaper places on the net..
YES! Love it! What I've said all along!
It's just great to see/hear someone else
say it with physical data to back it up.
Congrats!
OK...so now we need a nice photo of the setup
and your jetting info and engine mod info for the user's page
http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dcoepictures.htm
Paul
I think you're looking for J. Wagner...
http://www.jmwagnersales.com/gasket.html
Paul Tegler [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Jeff McNeal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2002 9:40 AM
Subject: Paging thearthursmith?
A Dremel is the only way I've found to safely
remove 'em when frozen (very common)
BE CAREFUL... or be willing to add a dab
of silicone sealer when the main collar threads
see the edge of the dremel wheel (almost a
necessity to cut all the way through the nuts)
Paul Tegler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
that's 4 'point ' 5 (4 . 5) that's the little circle
you see suspended in the middle of the throat
half way through the bore.
The 40...45 designation is the mm diameter of
the throttle butterflies.
A single 45 works fine (but note that some people believe
the #1 and #4 cyls run lean due
Well the first time I saw this it (*see below) bummed me a
bit after all the work that's gone into my color pages
( www.teglerizer.com/triumphcolors/ ) and
(www.teglerizer.com/mgcolors/)
but this is a resource I think can benefit everyone.
Their colors seem a bit incomplete and it's a bit hard
I asked the question.. EXACTLY as I needed the answer too.
That was... how to modify the rubber. The trim was/is not
a problem nor a concern. The rubber, not being a 'molded to shape'
piece..was the problem, and will be, to anyone that
has to replace one as the orig. 'ring' style is NLA.
You'll
You're not going to like this answer Jeff
but having just painted a car myself, my first
instinct (read as BTDT..learning the hard way) could
be a couple of things/variations.
Either the base coat did not adhere to the panel
correctly (IE: a bit of silicone or oil still on the surface
The Spitfire towers are the only ones different from the
GT6/Vintesse/Harold towers. (no differences exist
across model years) The Spit tower motor mount
location bolts/flanges do not 'stick out' as far as the
GT6/Vintesse/Harold towers. There's about a 1.2
difference 'across' the two towers
oh no... sounds like a spun bearing.
either crank or rod big end.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: mikeross [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2003 7:08 PM
You'd have to extend the GT6 motor mounts by
just less than 3/4 on each side, as well as down
by about 1/2 to have them reach the Spit towers
properly. Otherwise you risk having the motor sink far
enough to sit on the steering rack. The GT6 engine
mounts also have a spacer between the 'mount
:-) Thanks Suzie! :-)
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Suzie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: SpitList [EMAIL PROTECTED]; NASS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 3:37 PM
Subject: NASS Christmas Song
:-(bummer
I've never met him but I send my regrets Fred.
As with any loss...the 'void' is odd, and takes time to adjust.
The 'waters' after the loss of family (Gail's Dad's recent
passing) still haven't 'calmed'. maybe it's simple 'mortality'
starring at us so bluntly that makes it
Hmmm... in the middle of rebuilding my '67 MKIII seats
I realize the p.o. has two of the same side seats in the car!
( the seat backs are 'handed')
So... does anyone have a drivers side seat for a MKIII Spit
they care to sell! (the offset of the backs are towards the center
BOTH of my
Hi All
I'm on the hunt again I'm trying to track down
a pair of internal bumper brackets that are on the inside
of the boot on a 1967 Triumph spitfire MKIII
a pic of what I'm looking for can be found at
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/partsneeded.htm
I need these two brackets
I've got a ton of old parts in the cabinets. I usually never
throw anything away as I always find a way to make
something out of old pieces to perform some task of
fix some other assembly.
While finishing up Thirteen's rear brakes, after installing
new rear shoes... I realized one of
OK...second message on the rear brakes.
I went ahead and decided to rebuild the rear cyls
while they were out. S__t! The rebuild kit I just
bought from Nigel is for 3/4 bore rear cyls.
Thirteen had 5/8 cyls. So now I'm REALLY
wondering what these people (the p.o.) was
doing back here (rear
regarding the 'tapered' vs square shouldered studs.
Well I finally replaced the stud that was mangled
and missing a nut that held on the wire wheel adapters.
pics and info concerning the difference in studs is at
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/67t_stubcompared.htm
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL
Oh well I should have known not to order from V.B. ... (idiots)
I ordered a dash coverlay for Thirteen (my '67 MKIII Spit)
...sure enough...I received a cover that is flat across the front
not with the little 'bump out' of the earlier dashes.
So I call them up... and explain the problem.
I've got the ragtop (frame in place this evening) to install, front
calipers to re-install, driver seat to re-upholster and install, and
Thirteen (my '67 MKIII Spit) is done.
I'd like to thank all those individuals that supplied a few parts
here and there. but I need just a few tiny parts
Figures sent the last one a bit too fast
As well as needing the column surround I was writing to
inform everyone I have a bunch of parts to unload from
this project.
I have a complete 1147cc engine and 3 syncrho tranny.
A gas tank in good shape complete with filler cap and neck tube
two
Now this one sucks! This came to me from Dave Houser
from one of the other car lists.
Dave needed a place to post the pic, so I helped by setting
up a page so all people could see what happened.
This was a recent event.
...note that's a Porsche on the right.
...how about taking a small Dremel tool
cut off wheel and cutting a screw driver slot
into the top of the head.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Ed Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Spit6 Mail List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; SpitfireMailList
[EMAIL
I didway back in version 1.8.
...no idea where those files are these days...
sorry.
I do have a recollection of a bunch of stuff...
but the early version were limited 'at the low end'
of some of the spec you could enter.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original
well it;'s been awhile since I've been able to
get back to updating this projects web pages.
I've finally got pics up and a lengthy description
of the current system that seems to fill ALL
the parameters, and has been doing so quite
well for the last four hundred miles or so.
The pics are the
Well... the system on Big Red seems to be working great...
so I just installed a simple oil separator/filter on my 1967
Spitfire MKIII. Dirt cheap...about $12 worth of materials...
and about a 1/2 hour to install (including photos)
we'll see how it goes.
There IS only one way to swap out the clutch.
You pull the tranny from inside the car.
Nigel (owner operator of Spitbits) is a great guy
to do business with. Just make sure (ask) for the
Borg and Beck unit, NOT anything else. But I'm
pretty sure that's all Nigel carries to begin with.
V.B
Do you mean Stefan? (Roundy) :-)
great guy to do business with.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Henry Stike [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Spitfire frame
Yep..she came out into the daylight today! Sunny here
still only sub 40 degrees but that's warm by comparison.
I drove her out for a few 'sunshine' photos. I now have
one of here for the front page
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/myspits.html
(lower left corner.)
Oh and for all you
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=6469item=2458459009
Even though this car is in GA, apparently it must have
been in MD in the early 90's. Those two car show
plaques are from Bowie MD British Car Day
which is less than 15 minutes from my house.
The show recently
Well it's a biggy...like 14? pics.
lots of texthope it helps
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/67t_ragtop.htm
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
Well check this out! I emailed the seller of the white Spit
on ebay... He stated it's been storage from 1982 to 2003
...yet there are two Bowie, MD BCD dash plaques on
the car from 92 and 93 clearly visible in the pics.
So I emailed him about the 'time frame' discrepancy
and his reply was
usually yellow..if a p.o. hasn't repainted them yet.. 8^)
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Daniel Parrott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Joe Curry [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2004 6:22 PM
Subject:
A 'racer' had replied to me concerning running HS4's
(not HS6's) on his 2 liter GT6.
I lost a ton of saved emails and can't find your orig message to me
Could you please respond back again with what you're running?
(mods and resulting needles)
thanks
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
background...
...three parts, have me wondering
I'm looking for the right tap to thread a port or two
two pieces seem to have the same part number, while
a third, a different number.
Now based on the model year variations the thermostat
output water fitting for the manifold
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htm
yep... no separate listing for MKIV's with O/D
but I'm pretty sure in your case it should be a 3.89
for the U.S. market.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: M D Doc Nugent [EMAIL
Sorry for the delays here guys and gals I finally had time to
document and upload the Trooper II starter stuff.
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages
UNBElievable... or is it simply a 'time frame' thing (historically)...
but I can't seem to find a single photograph anywhere on the
internet of a Triumph 2000 engine compartment!
Can anyone point me in the direction of a few pages with
engine compartment photos?thanks
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL
The 'offset' of the motor part really isn't that far off
of 'directly to the side' of the main body.
On the GT6, mounted on the carb/exhaust side, the
solenoid sticks out and slightly down (about 8:30 o'clock?)
So on a Spit installation (distributor side of the engine)
it would stick up at around
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Larry Vaughan [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: Trans
yes... it can be done... but be prepared to build
your own rear tranny mount!
You don't need to remove your seats. Actually...
having the passenger seat there, makes things a bit easier.
Personally, when I pull mine, I'm seated in the passenger
seat and the tranny ends up in my lap, before I get out
of the car with it.
An easy trick before you even unbolt anything
That 'wierd' section you refer to is a rubber
isolator, both for vibration, and to keep you from
getting electrically shocked (if you have the
shift knob switch)
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: John Benson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/73gt6br_tropperstarter.htm
main body is perhaps 3/4 shorter including the V+ terminal
re-location.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Dave Fain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 02,
uprate the front bar to 7/8 add a rear bar.
drop the front back down to MKIII specs (bottom a-arm level at static)
Stiffen the front springs , from stock 180's to around 250-330 max
soften the rear, drop the rear an extra chamber degree or two at the
wheels. stay with under 185/70's
Paul
yes...that's stock. it's on the crank (rather than the water pump)
of the 2-2.5L 6 cyls
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Larry Vaughan [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Gary Leroux [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April
Yes James you 'can' tweak them. I've got a 1500
4 cyl tach that is now all set up for my GT6's 6 cyl
engine and is accurate across the whole scale.
A simple trim pot (~50K ohms) boot strapped across
pins 4 to 8 of the integrated ckt on the board inside your
tach is all that's needed (and a
At 15 or so degrees??? Are you sure it's not a
DCOE manifold? The manifold mount end bolts
of a Weber DCOE carb is 15 degrees
http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/images/dcoe_dimension_gaskets.jpg
Can you please accurately measure the carb ports 'center to center'
distance as well as the bore?
or
...just go to any hardware store and pick out any
wall paneling you like and or Formica pattern. (not)
Simply Use hardboard, (un-perforated peg board) and you could
veneer it with any wood you like. Lots of poly coats and
you could have a wild all wood interior. (not)
There's a guy out there
The Spitfire door and GT6 door inner surfaces
are identical (per model year at least)
Yes... I've made my own panels for my GT6
as well as a few of my Spits. I'm not really sure
what you're talking about with the 'bump' ???
Do you have both 'handle' pieces? There is a metal,
as well as a
James...the round 'bullet' is the 'signal' terminal from
the (-) side of the coil. The flat spade is the V+ terminal.
Just 'switiching' V+ will not activate the integrated ckt.
on the board inside the tach. You need full power to V+
and ground with a separate 'signal' input to trigger the
ckt.
REally! doesn't that suck! The postage prices are
STRANGE at best. A pair of HS6 carbs cost me nearly
$80 to ship (2 kilos?) and yet a pair of HS6 adapter
plates, phenolic spacers and all hardware only cost
$9! (~1.2 kilo?) I have to believe its a 'size' thing.
The carbs I bought from the
...interesting dilemma here. swapped out a pair
of ZS carbs for HS4's I've plenty of experience with tuning
SU carbs but this one is a bit of a 'stumper'
My best setup has A/F at around 12.3 at idle but up and running,
cruising, and 4th gear 20-50mph ace te4sting all looks (and
Well...someone please kick me. (IN THE HEAD!) I guess I'm
rolling a long here a bit too quickly...or chalk it up to too many late
nights. I should go back and visit some of my OWN web pages. :-)
The GT6 is now up and running with a pair of AUD604's (HS4's) running
The problem before was my own
http://www.nasshq.org/spittogether/2004/est2004/schedule1.html
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
*** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL
OK...learn something everyday.
A GT6 has twin 1/5 carbs right? So how the heck
does it breath properly through onlt two 1.3 air box
snorkels!
YES... twin ZS150's, but the air box nozzles are only 1.3
in diameter.
SO... it IS true...why ZS run funky without the airbox
The Box is a
...got lots of responses on this one ...both ON and OFF list :-)
My point was comparing people's use of KN's and etc and wonder
why the needles need to be richer when the KN's are used, it's obvious
the lack of restriction is letting the carbs breath better.
Yes... most of the twin carb boxes
James...as far as the idle going up wit hthe cap off
that's to be expected. I'm assuming you have a breather pipe
from the rocker cover to the carbs? Removing the cap
lets the carbs pull in more air so it's like opening the carb
butterflies up just a tiny bit. This is normal.
If the car
NOPE! hammer and chisel time!
Where on the car is it?
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Bob Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Spitlist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 2:18 PM
Subject: NASS J. B. Weld w/ LBC content?
Someone awhile back...was looking for wheel studs.
The following link is to a company that's been around awhile
I knew of.that apparently is expanding their product line.
http://www.superlite-wheels.com/pages/P1010010.html
nfi ...just and fyi
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
Well it looks like Saturday might be hot and humid!
but no rain for Carlisle's Fun Field on the 22nd!
http://www.weather.com/weather/local/17013
might be wet ground but supposedly no day
time showers! Looking forward to seeing old faces. :-)
Sorry MG and Spridget friends I'll
Well... spitbits, Canley and V.B. none of them list the
hard brake lines on the rear frame on the ass end of a
late Spit/GT6.
Anyone have a spare on a frame still perhaps. the
solid metal brake lines that branch from the rear T to feed
the flex lines? Apparently my 'long' line
If you paid retail it's close to a 50/50 shot at cost
of paying what you paid for it just to fix it. Yes..there are
company's that can re-pressurize them and cal. them again.
But cost wise its in the $75-$100 range I believe.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original
Now this is weird. I've always used Castrol 20/50
in all my LBC's. I had just changed the oil prior to
the Carlisle Import Show trip.
On the way home from Carlisle...we (Gail and I)
noticed the oil pressure was a bit low. Warm, it
was max'ing out 40 psi. And yet at an idle, it never
really
I've put about 6K or more miles on B.R. and have never
had any oil press anomalies before this. That's what made
it so strange. I did an engine flush before putting in
the Mobil One. So maybe that simply cleared whatever
small particle might have been in the valve.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL
Any chance your catalytic converter innards have disintegrated
thus clogging your exhaust?
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Bob Greene [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: NASS [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Spitlist [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 2:25 PM
he he... well..if the p.o. had replaced the stock
cat. with a downpipe chances are...he had the
same problem. You might still have a bit of the
innards of the cat, back there in your muffler,
blocking it up a bit!
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
not necessarily. Your muffler is full of pieces
of metal and pipes to act as baffles. The bits and
pieces could easily act like a like a log jam on a river.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Bob Greene
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL
OK considering a ZS carb has it's float chamber on
the bottom of the carb, where the SU has the separate float
chamber why would one be more prone to vapor lock
than the other.? I'm purposely leaving that question open
ended, as I'd like to hear peoples opinions on which carb
absorbs
As the upper a-arms are not adjustable,
the whole tower would have to be angled
to adjust them. This would require the motor
moving too so that's out!
The lower a-arms use shims to adjust the chamber.
caster is effected if you don't stack equal number
of shims behind both a-arm frame mount pivot
generic 'condition' voltages for a lead acid
car battery
volts specific gravitycapacity
12.6-12.8V1.265100%
12.4-12.6V1.22575-100%
12.2-12.4V1.19050-75%
12.0-12.2V1.15525-50%
11.7-12.0V1.1200%-25%
The specific gravity is of the electrolyte in
Are valve stem seals worth the effort on a Triumph
six cylinder engine? Granted...we're NOT talking a
fresh new rebuild here. It seems seals would be a whole
lot easier than new guides and valves if the tolerances
are just enough to perhaps suck a bit of oil (intake valves)
and/or create a bit
nope. then again it's not easy...
but possible to jam a wedge in between the
spring plate and body sheetmetal to force it
down. But you're better off (safer, and with
less possible damage) to simply drop the spring
ends from the uprights. I've even gone to the extent once
of using the
Hey guys and gals
For any of you out there that have looked at the various
SU needle charts, (and those of you that have created
programs for selecting/comparing needles) There is an
error in your programs.
I've gone through all the 'familiar' programs, as well as
a few of the 'newer'
just the tail shaft outer casing. (bearing etc)
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: M D Doc Nugent [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 2:00 PM
Subject: Deleting an OD
I have a '72 Spit with OD, and someone here
I was going to drive over to check this one out.
But I'm not going to bother!
gotta' wonder where these guys come form
READ THE DESCRIPTION CAREFULLY!
It's a no reserve auction...he then goes on the remind you
that by bidding you're entering into a legal and binding contract
OK OK I guess I should have known better than
to have not been more explicit in my first email.
I was asked by a lister if I could/would check out this car in person.
I had inadvertently deleted his email and had to hit the lists
in general. (I should have stated all that first, in my orig
You can check the archives of the NASS group.
One of the members is a machine shop owner and
started producing the proper pullers here in the states.
I believe he's down in N. Carolina or there about.
He sells them to NASS members for something like $40!
They are heavy and work quite well!
spray some WD40 and or etc into the lock.
and stick the key completely in and out a few times.
It sounds like the tumblers are simply gummed up
allowing them to stick.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Harve B Thorn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
first chart
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spitcamspecs.htm
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: James Carruthers [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'SpitfireMailList' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 6:09 AM
Subject: Standard Cam
the 'dimming' relay was mounted near the back
of the car near the tail lights
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Douglas Braun [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Gene Eighmy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: 'Gosling, Richard B' [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED];
some of the fuse boxes had crimped on wires
while other plugged on. The little clips that hold
the fuses are usually not tight i nthe plastic as they
'clip in' the box part of it. Just use a small 22-38
caliber rifle cleaning brush (brass and small) of a piece
of 320 or finer sand paper to clean
Hey guys and gals.
I had a gentleman contact me with a somewhat sad story.
He had hired a company to transport his GT6 across country
but it never made it. Supposedly the company is now
defunct and he can't figure out how to find his car.
A short 'blurb' can be found on Todd Wilson's gt6.com
James (and everyone)
At least here i nthe states the cheapest around is the
LM2940T-10.0 low drop regulator. 10 volts out @ 1amp
and only needs (spec'ed at) 11.4V to stay in regulation.
This is the TO-220 package. So heat dissipation should
be more than adequate for Triumph gauge apps.
It's not a compression fitting. There should be a leather (oem)
washer in there. You'll notice the oil fitting is flat with a small
'tit' up the middle. The washer fits around the 'tit' against the flat
surface. The 'oem' pipes had a matching flat surface in the pipe.
a pic of the back of the
All true. Maybe it's just me being 'picky' 26+years
of electronics design tends to make you look for the best
possible scenario regardless or 'functional parameters. :-)
Heck... for this application... a standard LM7810 should work
Like you mentioned...you 'should' be inputting 13-15 volts
if
Very interesting timing here for those that don't know
how or what the voltage stabilizer does/works
Ed's got one of his solid state units on eBay right now
with a rather nice 'animation' of a stabilizer in action!
The drag of the bearing to it's shell is simply greater
than the friction of the clutch fingers to the bearing
shell. Did the bearing you install, spin freely
after installing it on the carrier? It may be binding
a bit.
You can put a light return spring (red HELP paks at local
auto parts stores)
That looks like the same bike rack I use to put our
bikes on the back of my GT6!
(your rear 'tower')
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Ken Strayhorn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2004 5:28 PM
Subject: Re:
See injected below
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: Ed Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Spit6 Mail List [EMAIL PROTECTED]; SpitfireMailList
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 5:18 PM
Subject: [SPIT6CGT6] Initial start-up
I learned that one back in my childhood days
working on my mini-bike and go-kart engines.
Although I did not know it's origins as you described.
I simply learned that one 'hands on' :-)
Bearing grease actually works quite well as well
as does the red brake lubes. (sticky stuff)
Paul Tegler
The GT6 went back to swing axles on the MKIII post
KF2 ('73 model year) cars. previous models had the
roto-flex rear axles with only very early MKI's having
a shorter swing axle.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
Just out of curiosity, does anybody know around what
the uprights never changed across all model years.
the long axles cam in in 71 on spits but the swing spring
did not come in till 73.
Yes... the longer axle with the shorter spring created a bit more camber
as the upright would have been leaning in a bit more with the shorter
spring.
BUT..there
Barry,
Are you trying to mount the rail
on top of the brackets or hang the bar from under
the brackets? The later will give you a bit more clearance.
Also take a look at the bracket next tot he tunnel.
I've seen MANY of these brackets 'bent' by people pulling
trannies out.
'71-80 rails should
Thanks to Marks comments, I just realized
the GT6 Registry has just hit a milestone.
1000 GT6's listed!
If you've got one .not in the database, please add it!
http://www.teglerizer.com/InternationalGT6database/
Thanks
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
Andy
Dig through your local 'big' hardware (Home Depot, Lowes, etc)
store in the bathroom section. The o-rings for some of the
faucets will work just fine. The red ones are viton(sp?) and will
not fall apart with gas contact.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original
THAT is EXACTLY what it's for, (water to leak out)
and yes..it's part of the casting..
It's called a weep hole. The inner seal has failed.
It 'could' be rebuilt, but it's just as cheap to replace the
pump completely.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
I've found different colors DO look better or worse
based on the shape/style of the car.
I just went through this on a MGB I'm about to paint.
The final choice was a medium/dark gun metal gray metallic.
(non standard color) On this particular car it should look
really good with all the chrome.
OK... question here... and something for people to
contemplate
People speak frequently of low pressure in Triumph
4 and 6 cyl engines. This too has been bugging me...
trying to understand why the pressure would drop so
much just from the engine warming up. Some people
say it's the oil and
Hello people
I KNOW what car this pic is from ( a kit car). but I do NOT know WHERE
this tank came from. http://www.toad.net/~wizardz/mysterytank1.jpg
Can anyone identify what car this tank would have come stock on?
...or where a tank like this could be purchased? ummm...no ...it's
1 - 100 of 239 matches
Mail list logo
