ire do I disconnect at the reg
and ground?
Mike
On Sat, Dec 19, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Glen Hadley <gl...@fmtcs.com
<mailto:gl...@fmtcs.com>> wrote:
Actually, over 14V at the generator is probably too high. A max
of 13.8V is generally considered enough. Sounds like it is
over
I don't know all of them, but the DIN standard makes the brown wire the
power ground. In most systems, red is ignition hot and yellow is
battery+, but I'm not certain this one would follow that convention, it
could easily be reversed. Black is usually the speaker common. Beyond
these
This is something I do know a little about. The inverter solution is
one I have used many times. A small 100W peak inverter is only about
$20 to $30 and will light all the lights you can string at a campsite.
There is some inefficiency involved, so using the smallest inverter that
has
I have experienced the wiper shafts becoming rusted and you can't move
the wiper arms. That could cause the motor to draw enough current to
blow the fuse, too. YMMV I soaked them with penetrant to free them
up, eventually replaced them with good used ones.
Glen Hadley
On 9/9/2014 9:09
I don't think the glass is the same size, and you wouldn't be able to
cut it down and avoid destroying the heating elements. They do make
'stick on' type defroster grids, but I don't have any experience with them.
glenh :)
On 8/2/2014 11:24 AM, Kyle Davis wrote:
My 66 is a daily driver in
It can easily be done by one person, usually. As far as I know, the
early bolts were regular bolts, and holding the head (under the vehicle)
while tightening the nut in the engine compartment is a problem. Later,
a special bolt with a sot of half-moon head would not turn when you put
on the
not matter one to
the main battery (B+) and one to the aux battery (+). The 85 should be
grounded, with 86 to the 61 terminal of the regulator.
Glen Hadley :)
On 3/16/2013 08:10, Bert Knupp wrote:
Battery isolation relay
Glen,
I think you've hit it correctly. Just for fun, I'll send you
the car is off.
Hope this helps- if you can find out any more, let us know and we can
try to refine this.
Glen Hadley
On 3/15/2013 10:11, Bert Knupp wrote:
Battery isolation relay
Volks,
I need some help. Various VW models over the years have used
dual-battery systems: campers, sound
makes me think very strongly that it is a voltage sensitive
relay, dropping out at about 10 volts, which could not be replaced by a
'standard' relay like the one you have.
Glen Hadley
On 3/15/2013 14:37, Bert Knupp wrote:
Battery isolation relay
As described in the factory's shop bulletin
That's beautiful! Now that I have names for all the pieces, my input on
the bad running engine:
I have seen similar symptoms when the 'auxiliary fuel jet' gets
plugged. I never knew what it was called, but it really doesn't run
right if it is plugged up. It seems to gum up from old/poor
I would very much like to see the article with the 34PICT-3 setup. I've
fought them before, and they have worked pretty well, but I've never
seen anything definitive on how they should be set up!
I've not used google groups much. Do they have a 'files' section where
you could post it?
Still here since I can't remember. It's been a long time, since
sometime in the 90's, anyway. Used to live in Iowa, now a Missourian by
about 15 miles. and about an hour from NQ's in Nebraska.
glenh :)
On 11/17/2012 08:23, asad ishaque wrote:
Hello Volks folks!
Lets turn this
You know you can stop here in Rock Port, if you are travelling! I think
the Subaru is a great choice, I've thought for quite a while that Subaru
did what VW should have with the horizontal engine. I've owned one or
more for about 20 years now, and they are not hard to work on- they have
Not really any difference. Either side will work to isolate the battery.
glenh :)
On 5/20/2012 16:34, Bert Knupp wrote:
Volks,
I’m thinking of installing a main battery shutoff switch in my stock 1970
beetle. I’d do it to protect against tiny current leaks during storage, but
also as an
I am an Electrical Engineer, and have learned a
trick for voltage reduction that is pretty cool
and works very well. If you know that a 'power'
diode has a 'forward' voltage drop of ~1.5 - 1.6
volts, which is pretty constant with amps, you can
put several in series to produce about a 7V
This sounds pretty classic for a bad ground.
Check the grounding on that light, clean up the
ground jumper (or put one on if it isn't there)
and clean up the socket. Should work.
glenh :)
Rob Garretson wrote:
Hi,
I have a 67 bug with a problem tail light.
It is the right hand side and
I had a similar thing that turned out to be the
coil- it would miss at high speeds when it was
getting hot, which happened on long straight roads
at fast speed.
Also had a similar one that was crap in the gas
tank plugging up the intake strainer. Everytime
you did something, let it rest a
I'm partial to the Toyota Camry, I took one 295k
miles before it tossed a rod on me- mostly very
hard driving . . . . I think one radiator, a ball
joint and tie rod ends is most of the work I ever
did on it- oh and one heater fan . . .
glenh :)
Mike Morehouse wrote:
This isn't VW related
I don't think you can tell the difference between
an engine with 1500 cylinders and one with 1600
cylinders without taking it apart and measuring
the pistons- unless there's an extra fin or two on
the 1600 - it's been so long since I've seen a
1500 cylinder that I can't remember for sure.
Actually, the external regulators are pretty
generic. Even one designed for some other vehicle
should work if you can figure out the wiring.
There's always a field wire, a sense wire, and one
for a battery connection. Most need to be
grounded for the 'other' connection. All the
regulator
Still have one on the bus . . .
glenh :)
Timothy Osburn wrote:
I had the @ oval on my '70 beetle till it faded to dust. Replaced it with a
peace sign oval!
Tim Osburn, Head Mechanic, Ralph Spoilsport Motors.
Home of Fine, Old Volkswagens and...
Grand Canyon Nut.
The Blues Notions
You might also want to check if the pivots are
rusted. If it's just the electrical, they should
move by hand. Try some PB Blaster on the pivots
and see if it helps.
HTH,
glenh :)
marc vellat wrote:
Chuck, power to your wiper switch should be coming
through Fuse #10 from the ignition
Not a VW, but I've started lots of
alternator-equipped vehicles by 'bump starting'.
If there's enough battery to spark, it'll start.
glenh :)
GARRETT FELL wrote:
I am not sureit was kind of a question.
I think it's possible to start a generator equipped car without a battery
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