I think the opposite is true. On Ben Benividases 10 second 200SX we have
been turning the AGX's full stiff to minmize weight transfer to the rear.
This seems to work as Ben rips off 1.6-1.7 60 foot times with slicks that
are a little smaller than what the other fast FWD cars are running. On Mike
Majors low 12 second 200SX and Ryan Besterwiches high 11 second street
SE-R's we also set the shocks the same way. They do 1.8-1.9 second 60 ft
times on small slicks. With no adjustment they do 1.9-2.0 60 ft times. In my
USC 200SX I put the rear compression damping to full stiff and the front
rebound damping to full stiff for the drag racing stage. The car did a 2.2
60 ft time even though it bogged. Before the dual adjustable shocks, the
car would do 2.3-2.4 60 foot times on street tires. I think the car can do
2.0-2.1 second 60 fts on street tires with a little practice.
Mike
>You need to turn down the rear, you are too stiff.
>You hook up in a rear wheel drive vehicle with
>stiffer rear shocks. You would want a soft front
>and a stiff rear, so that the font would lift to put
>the power to the ground in the rear. However,
>you are in a front wheel drive vehicle and are
>not going to be doing any wheel stands anytime
>soon. Tune up the front and soften up the rears.
>Don't confuse the things that work on your buddies
>Mustang with your Sentra. A lot of Honda guys do that.
>You won't be needing wheelie bars anytime soon or anything
>like that either. Your engine is located over your drive axle.
>Also, you do not need to put your battery in the trunk, unless
>you are in need of space under your hood for an intercooler or
>something and the battery is in the way. There is not a severe
>weight ratio difference with our cars like there is with a rwd car.
>Do a few trials runs while tuning your suspension properly.
>turn the front and rears until you are hooking up correctly. that's
>what the knobs are for. You don't have 8 different settings in the
>rear for no reason.
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