Maybe the temperature was the reason for the poor MPH. You loose about 2-3
hp for every 10 degrees the temp goes up due to the loss of air density.
Incresing humidity does the same but not to the same extent.
Another thing to check is that there was a batch of SE-R UD pulleys that got
out that had the timing markes off. Perhaps they may have done the same
mistake on the GA ones. You can measure your timing with a dial back timing
light to make sure that the marks are correct or not.
Mike
>OK maybe I should have elaborated. I tried lots of different settings! And
>more than once on each setting to try for some consistancy. My 60' times
>were lower and I was launching pretty damn good. I wouldn't rule out driver
>error, except that I had several 2.2 60' times. FOr our cars that is an
>outstanding time. Better than a lot of SE-R's that I have seen. And why
>would I not want to stiffen up the rear shocks. I thought the whole idea
>was to keep the power in the front of the car, and not have the weight
>transfer suck up power. I have seen my car launch and with the stock shocks
>it lifts the front end up and squats in the rear. This transfer of weight
>is absorbing power. I would want to stiffen up the rear to keep this from
>happening! Many FWD cars use this setup, and the addition of wheelie bars
>to some of the fastest FWD imports in the nation leads me to believe they
>are trying to keep the wieght from transfering to the rear. Sure my car
>doesn't make that much power, but it's the same laws of physics that apply!
>I have also seen many FWD guys shim the rear springs accomplishing the same
>thing. Next time I visit the strip I will try firm front and soft rear
>settings. FYI I tried 4-8 settings in the rear and 1-4 on the front. Would
>you really think that I would want a really soft setting in the rear, like
>say 1 or 2, and maybe 3-4 in the front? It's worth a shot, that's about the
>only thing I didn't try. Keep the advice coming,
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