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Lloyd is right on. I work in the semiconductor industry and we use the
Dow high vacuum grease in our fab. I borrowed about a tablespoon of the
stuff and tried it as Lloyd described. Works like a charm. I have used
it successfully on my 750 and my 450 with no sticking problems for three
years on the 750 and two years on the 450. Keeping the fluid clean is
also important because DOT3 attracts moisture which will accumulate in the
lowest point of the system.
Howard in Maine
Lloyd Oliver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent by: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
01/05/2004 10:53 PM
Please respond to llooli
To: Multiple recipients of list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
cc:
Subject: Re: boanerges locks up
Hello Eric,
I have to say I disagree with your use of Sil-Glide (or is it
Sil-Glyde). I tried this stuff thinking it was silicone. I posted an
oven test of this stuff a few years back that I can't locate right now
(Maybe its in the archives). If I recall correctly it began to run or
weep around or below 200 degrees F. I came to the conclusion that it
was a petroleum based product with added silicone and did not meet the
claims listed on the packaging. I had put some around the caliper
piston on one of the rebuilds. Sure enough, after a couple of panic
stops, the caliper heated up and the grease began to flow onto the
friction disk and onto the rotor. The good news is that the rotor
didn't heat up much anymore. The bad news is that the stopping power
was destroyed! And, folklore claims that you can never get all the
contaminants out of the friction pad with solvent. The next time it
heats up, what remains flows back to the surface and once again effects
your stopping power.
But, the Honda manual says to use silicone on the caliper cylinder and
piston area that is not awash with brake fluid. I finally found a
product from Dow Corning labeled High Vacuum Grease. This is a Silicone
lubricant and the spec sheet lists impressive properties. My oven test
only went to 500 degrees F, but the stuff didn't look or function any
different at that temperature as it did in any other temperature
including 0 degrees in my freezer. Anyway, I use it on all my caliper
rebuilds to keep water off the puck side of the caliper and piston.
Actually, on any brake part metal exposed to the atmosphere or where
water can get to where friction is not needed. Don't put it on the
friction parts! I haven't had to rebuild one of these calipers yet.
But, if you don't replace the dot 3 brake fluid once every couple of
years, it will sludge up on the inside and keep the caliper piston from
moving away from the rotor. But, it takes from 5-10 years to do it.
Anyway, I did ten panic stops from 60mph in a row with the Dow grease
and never saw a sign of melting, seepage, creepage, weepage, or drool.
I'm happy with it!
Incidentally, I also use this grease on the brake bleeder to help keep
it from rusting and freezing into the caliper. Works so far. But,
then, I also keep the water out with a rubber cap over it like it came
from the factory.
I remember the 5.3 oz tube I have wasn't exactly cheap. However, it is
a lifetime supply for me. And, it seems to be perfect for this
application.
Cheers,
Lloyd SOHC4 #11
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F,
78 750F
Eric Thierbach wrote:
> rebuilt my caliper a couple years ago and used something called
sil-glide
>from
>NAPA auto parts, lightly coat the caliper bore. Have also seen auto zone
>sell
>single use packets of this stuff.
>
>Haven't had a problem since
>
>Ride on.
>
>eric t. in KY
>sohc4#568
>'71 CB750
>
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Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Lloyd is right on. I work in the
semiconductor industry and we use the Dow high vacuum grease in our fab. I
borrowed about a tablespoon of the stuff and tried it as Lloyd described. Works
like a charm. I have used it successfully on my 750 and my 450 with no sticking
problems for three years on the 750 and two years on the 450. Keeping the fluid
clean is also important because DOT3 attracts moisture which will accumulate in the
lowest point of the system.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Howard in Maine</font>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<table width=100%>
<tr valign=top>
<td>
<td><font size=1 face="sans-serif"><b>Lloyd Oliver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></b></font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Sent by: [EMAIL PROTECTED]</font>
<p><font size=1 face="sans-serif">01/05/2004 10:53 PM</font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Please respond to llooli</font>
<br>
<td><font size=1 face="Arial"> </font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif"> To:
Multiple recipients of list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]></font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif"> cc:
</font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif"> Subject:
Re: boanerges locks up</font></table>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="Courier New">Hello Eric,<br>
I have to say I disagree with your use of Sil-Glide (or is it <br>
Sil-Glyde). I tried this stuff thinking it was silicone. I posted an <br>
oven test of this stuff a few years back that I can't locate right now <br>
(Maybe its in the archives). If I recall correctly it began to run or <br>
weep around or below 200 degrees F. I came to the conclusion that it <br>
was a petroleum based product with added silicone and did not meet the <br>
claims listed on the packaging. I had put some around the caliper <br>
piston on one of the rebuilds. Sure enough, after a couple of panic <br>
stops, the caliper heated up and the grease began to flow onto the <br>
friction disk and onto the rotor. The good news is that the rotor <br>
didn't heat up much anymore. The bad news is that the stopping power <br>
was destroyed! And, folklore claims that you can never get all the <br>
contaminants out of the friction pad with solvent. The next time it <br>
heats up, what remains flows back to the surface and once again effects <br>
your stopping power.<br>
<br>
But, the Honda manual says to use silicone on the caliper cylinder and <br>
piston area that is not awash with brake fluid. I finally found a <br>
product from Dow Corning labeled High Vacuum Grease. This is a Silicone <br>
lubricant and the spec sheet lists impressive properties. My oven test <br>
only went to 500 degrees F, but the stuff didn't look or function any <br>
different at that temperature as it did in any other temperature <br>
including 0 degrees in my freezer. Anyway, I use it on all my caliper <br>
rebuilds to keep water off the puck side of the caliper and piston. <br>
Actually, on any brake part metal exposed to the atmosphere or where <br>
water can get to where friction is not needed. Don't put it on the <br>
friction parts! I haven't had to rebuild one of these calipers yet. <br>
But, if you don't replace the dot 3 brake fluid once every couple of <br>
years, it will sludge up on the inside and keep the caliper piston from <br>
moving away from the rotor. But, it takes from 5-10 years to do it. <br>
Anyway, I did ten panic stops from 60mph in a row with the Dow grease <br>
and never saw a sign of melting, seepage, creepage, weepage, or drool. <br>
I'm happy with it!<br>
<br>
Incidentally, I also use this grease on the brake bleeder to help keep <br>
it from rusting and freezing into the caliper. Works so far. But, <br>
then, I also keep the water out with a rubber cap over it like it came <br>
from the factory.<br>
<br>
I remember the 5.3 oz tube I have wasn't exactly cheap. However, it is <br>
a lifetime supply for me. And, it seems to be perfect for this application.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
Lloyd SOHC4 #11<br>
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F, <br>
78 750F<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Eric Thierbach wrote:<br>
<br>
> rebuilt my caliper a couple years ago and used something called
sil-glide<br>
>from<br>
>NAPA auto parts, lightly coat the caliper bore. Have also seen auto zone<br>
>sell<br>
>single use packets of this stuff.<br>
><br>
>Haven't had a problem since<br>
><br>
>Ride on.<br>
><br>
>eric t. in KY<br>
>sohc4#568<br>
>'71 CB750<br>
><br>
<br>
<br>
</font>
<br>
<br>
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