VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, June 30, 2002 Issue 350
Today's Topics:
1. Locating Leaks
2. Re: locating leaks
3. Re: locating leaks
4. Re: Deadbolt FUD?
5. International
6. Re: International Travelall
7. Jascoe adhesive and sealer remover
8. 1950 Liner
9. Re: locating leaks
10. Re: International
11. Re: locating leaks
12. Re: locating leaks
13. Re: locating leaks
14. Re: locating leaks
15. Re: locating leaks
16. Re: locating leaks
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:33:43 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Locating Leaks
Jill:
I had a leak near my door, too. Turned out it was coming from the floodlight
that's mounted next to the door. The rubber lens gasket was shot. Replaced
it with some vulkem; no leak. Hope I never have to replace that bulb, tho!
The hole sounds like the exhaust for the furnace, if it's down low, or the
stove, if it's up high.
Dan Weeks
75 Argosy 26
Des Moines
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2002 23:34:20 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: locating leaks
>
> one of our famous mini-monsoons arrived and all
> the rain prompted me to look for water inside the
> trailer. i'm not sure how to figure out where the
> water is coming from though (aside from the
> obvious). at the door, there is a tiny little wet
> spot on the left as i'm facing the trailer. it's
> the corner on the hinge side of the door. so,
> where does that water get in? (i do have the
> common *soft door-floor*). perhaps it leaks in
> through the vent thing that seems to go from the
> fridge to the roof? or could it be seeping in
> around the door (the rubber seal is wasted.. i
> guess that's on the priority list, too). is it a
> standard part at an RV store?
>
> the only other spot i saw wetness was around the
> base of the kitchen cupboard frame. but there is
> a hole on the wall behind that i forgot to block.
> i wonder what goes in that hole. it's about 3 or
> 4 inch diameter - like a pipe or something goes
> there.. is that where the gas stove pipes out?
> that part of the kitchen is torn up and i haven't
> dug through the debris yet.
>
> Jill
> Oregon
> 1960 scarestream
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 17:46:23 -0700
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
very cool idea, and an elegant solution... i suppose one would have to go
through the unit and stuff all the vent openings, ventilated access doors,
and the like, but worth the effort - once every blue moon.
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 2:19 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: locating leaks
> Tuna, I've heard that some RV dealers have a blower which can be attached
to
> a RV to create a positive pressure inside. Then they spray on a soapy
water
> solution and look for bubbles. Pin points where the entry point is quickly
> and no guess work so a fix can be made. Probably wouldn't be too difficult
> for a handy do-it-yourselfer to rig up something similar. I have an old
> salvaged squirrel cage furnace blower that I'll bet could be made to work.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 19:37:30 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
My Caravel has a drain fitting installed in the service compartment
floor for passing water and electric lines. That would be a superb place
for pressurizing with the blower side of a shop vac. Known holes might
not be too much of a problem, though there's quite a hole at the back of
the refrigerator. It wouldn't take much to drop a piece of vinyl film or
a few feet of duct tape to cover the wire mesh, and to close the
furnace, water heater and refrigerator top vents.
Or simply get out the tube of vulkem or alumiseal and apply to every
seam and every possible leak and test with water. If some leak now
because of age, others will later and fixing the leaks could become a
monthly process (unless it rains at longer intervals).
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2002 20:44:32 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt FUD?
We have had good luck so far welding the old cast frames. Reshaping them turned
out easier than first thought. Our body man had a good chance at a 64 with a
broken door frame. After some tinkering with some ideas with our foreman they
came up with using a cargo strap on the inner side of the door (inner skin
removed) to bring the frame tight against the outer skin. Once in position a MIG
welder put it back together. His door is holding well after 18 months and a 62
Bambi door we did after that is still holding also.
Charlie
James Greene wrote:
> Couldn't an experienced welder weld up a cracked door jam? Probably
> reinforce it too while the skin was off. Likely cost less then $2,000 I'd
> think. Then again, I doubt there are very many people on the vintage list
> with ' 78-'93 Airstreams. I could be wrong.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2002 9:45
> Subject: [VAC] Deadbolt FUD?
>
> > on 06/27/02 6:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > Replacing a cast metal door requires a door, jamb and screen door, that
> was
> > > used from 78 to 93.
> >
> > Thanks Andy,
> >
> > I wondered which years you had in mind when you first discussed deadbolts.
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 02:20:39 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: International
Hello I have been a lurker here for quite some time and have A question that
A friend had brought up, He had said the International models were coupled
with A International Travelall when sold new as a Package deal, I told him I
didnt think that was the case but would ask here.
Mark N
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 08:21:43 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: International Travelall
Heh, that's a good one. International Travelall's were often used to tow
Airstreams, that's the combo my grandparents bought in 1961, but it always
required two separate trips to two different dealers.
No evidence exists right now that there was any coordinated effort by
Airstream or International dealers to pair them up. 2 local dealers may
have put them together in front of their lots or at a county fair, but
that's probably about it.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 02:20:39 EDT
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] International
>
> Hello I have been a lurker here for quite some time and have A question that
> A friend had brought up, He had said the International models were coupled
> with A International Travelall when sold new as a Package deal, I told him I
> didnt think that was the case but would ask here.
> Mark N
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 11:29:40 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Jascoe adhesive and sealer remover
Cindy asked:
>
> Perhaps someone knows a chemical equivalent I could get here.
> Please advise me.
I used a different adhesive remover on a different project. I bought it at
a local store in the flooring department. It was very effective at
dissolving everything from tape residue and floor adhesive to a plastic
putty knife. BUT it was most effective if allowed to sit on the adhesive
for a little while and the fumes were scary. I am just writing to suggest
there are alternative products but you should pay attention to the warnings
on the label. Personally I would prefer to use a heat gun than sit in a
trailer over a puddle of the stuff I had.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 09:49:03 -0700
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1950 Liner
I just saw the following ad in the Spokane paper.
1950 22' AIRSTREAM Trlr 1469, good cond., no bthrm, orig. Byam stove oil
heater. $4500 obo. 208-263-3925.
It sounds like a fairly rare Airstream, so I thought someone on the list
might be interested. From the phone number, it looks to be in Idaho. I know
nothing beyond what the ad says.
Cheers -
Kathy Fisken
'72 Globetrotter
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 15:32:18 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: locating leaks
Jim. I heard that also, way back in 1966. I am still trying to find the
person that made that statement.
The questions I would have are:
1. Where would you attach the blower? You cannot put it inside the trailer.
2. How would you compensate for the holes in the floor and the roof for the
reefer?
3. Since it obviously would be a positive pressure, how would you limit it so
as not to
not buckle the stringers?
4. How would you compensate for the window gaskets that have been used from
1966 to 1996? When properly installed, they let air and water out, but not
in.
5. How would you keep from shattering the windows with that positive
pressure?
6. How would you compensate for the leakage of that air through the open cell
gaskets that are used in all of the ceiling vents?
7. How would you keep plastic bottles that the owner may have in the trailer
from being crushed by that positive pressure?
8. How would you keep the sealer that was applied to the backside of the
outside shell from stretching and/or cracking?
9. How much liability insurance do you carry, to repair all the things that
were damaged by that pressure?
Lets face it guys, this is a "TALE" that has grown to the point of being
totally ridiculous, and is more like a "bad joke."
If anyone tries this, I for one, would be very interested in how much trouble
you went through, to find and repair a simple water leak. All water leaks are
simple to find and repair, once a person has an intimate knowledge of the
internal construction of an Airstream.
It's the procedure that must be followed, that is evasive.
Perhaps someone could get the factory to give "hands on" demonstrations at
the international rally, this year.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 15:39:23 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: International
Mark. Another "TALL TALE." The international models have no reference to
anything but themselves.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 13:53:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
12" of water pressure isn't much, under a half psi. That's enough on the
LP line to detect leaks with soapy water. Most blowers don't produce
that much pressure but should bubble soapy water. The intentional leaks
like vents and window gaskets should keep the pressure down. One of
those vents could receive the hose from the blower side of a shop vac.
Closes one leak and supplies pressure.
The alternative to searching for leaks is to add vulkem to each seam,
some may not have needed it that year, but that worked for me.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 13:11:10 -0700
From: "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
The fact is that 'positive pressure' doesn't require the trailer to be
'air-tight'... it just means that the pressure inside the trailer needs to
be greater than the pressure outside. With a blower moving sufficient
amounts of air into the trailer, one could leave the vents, windows, door,
etc. open and still have 'positive pressure'... Closing off those openings
just makes it easier to achieve.
Tuna
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 12:32 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: locating leaks
> Jim. I heard that also, way back in 1966. I am still trying to find the
> person that made that statement.
> The questions I would have are:
> 1. Where would you attach the blower? You cannot put it inside the
trailer.
> 2. How would you compensate for the holes in the floor and the roof for
the
> reefer?
> 3. Since it obviously would be a positive pressure, how would you limit it
so
> as not to
> not buckle the stringers?
> 4. How would you compensate for the window gaskets that have been used
from
> 1966 to 1996? When properly installed, they let air and water out, but not
> in.
> 5. How would you keep from shattering the windows with that positive
> pressure?
> 6. How would you compensate for the leakage of that air through the open
cell
> gaskets that are used in all of the ceiling vents?
> 7. How would you keep plastic bottles that the owner may have in the
trailer
> from being crushed by that positive pressure?
> 8. How would you keep the sealer that was applied to the backside of the
> outside shell from stretching and/or cracking?
> 9. How much liability insurance do you carry, to repair all the things
that
> were damaged by that pressure?
>
> Lets face it guys, this is a "TALE" that has grown to the point of being
> totally ridiculous, and is more like a "bad joke."
>
> If anyone tries this, I for one, would be very interested in how much
trouble
> you went through, to find and repair a simple water leak. All water leaks
are
> simple to find and repair, once a person has an intimate knowledge of the
> internal construction of an Airstream.
>
> It's the procedure that must be followed, that is evasive.
>
> Perhaps someone could get the factory to give "hands on" demonstrations at
> the international rally, this year.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 15:15:08 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
On Sun, 30 Jun 2002 13:11:10 -0700, "Tuna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>The fact is that 'positive pressure' doesn't require the trailer to be
>'air-tight'... it just means that the pressure inside the trailer needs to
>be greater than the pressure outside. With a blower moving sufficient
>amounts of air into the trailer, one could leave the vents, windows, door,
>etc. open and still have 'positive pressure'... Closing off those openings
>just makes it easier to achieve.
why not use fresh air venting on your a/c and run that at high speed?
just curious
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 16:43:10 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
At 03:15 PM 6/30/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>why not use fresh air venting on your a/c and run that at high speed?
>just curious
>
>Charles L Hamilton
Yeah, just run your vents backwards, or "in." I have two Fantastic vents
on my trailer...they should make enough pressure, running "in," to provide
the small differential pressure needed. Wonder just how much pressure that
would generate? Surely not enough to activate Andy's dire concerns.
- Dick
(5368)
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 18:45:59 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: locating leaks
Let me see if I understand the point you are trying to make, Andy. I believe
you are of the opinion that using positive air pressure inside an Airstream
is not a good idea. Is that what you are saying? I want to be sure I'm
interpreting your comments correctly.
I can't say that I know of an example of checking for leaks with positive
air pressure having been done on an Airstream but if you would like to see
an example of it in use on a classic GMC motor home, I can refer you to a
web site for that.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 30, 2002 15:32
Subject: [VAC] Re: locating leaks
> Jim. I heard that also, way back in 1966. I am still trying to find the
> person that made that statement.
> The questions I would have are:
> 1. Where would you attach the blower? You cannot put it inside the
trailer.
> 2. How would you compensate for the holes in the floor and the roof for
the
> reefer?
> 3. Since it obviously would be a positive pressure, how would you limit it
so
> as not to
> not buckle the stringers?
> 4. How would you compensate for the window gaskets that have been used
from
> 1966 to 1996? When properly installed, they let air and water out, but not
> in.
> 5. How would you keep from shattering the windows with that positive
> pressure?
> 6. How would you compensate for the leakage of that air through the open
cell
> gaskets that are used in all of the ceiling vents?
> 7. How would you keep plastic bottles that the owner may have in the
trailer
> from being crushed by that positive pressure?
> 8. How would you keep the sealer that was applied to the backside of the
> outside shell from stretching and/or cracking?
> 9. How much liability insurance do you carry, to repair all the things
that
> were damaged by that pressure?
>
> Lets face it guys, this is a "TALE" that has grown to the point of being
> totally ridiculous, and is more like a "bad joke."
>
> If anyone tries this, I for one, would be very interested in how much
trouble
> you went through, to find and repair a simple water leak. All water leaks
are
> simple to find and repair, once a person has an intimate knowledge of the
> internal construction of an Airstream.
>
> It's the procedure that must be followed, that is evasive.
>
> Perhaps someone could get the factory to give "hands on" demonstrations at
> the international rally, this year.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2002 19:12:51 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: locating leaks
Jim. Not a good idea on an Airstream. To get enough pressure so that a person
could detect water leaks, in my opinion, would cause other damage.
Any water leak that could be found this way, can be found much easier, other
ways.
The secret is the approach to it. Works every time.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #350
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