VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, July 8, 2002 Issue 358
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Twin bed question again....
2. A/S for Sale
3. Re: Twin bed question again....
4. Introduction
5. fantastic fan current draw
6. Re: Dead bolt
7. Re: Dead bolt
8. Re: fantastic fan current draw
9. Re: Dead bolt
10. Re: fantastic fan current draw
11. The dead bolt story
12. Airstream Fans
13. Refrig and water heater questions
14. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
15. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
16. Re: Bath Exhaust fan
17. Re: The dead bolt story
18. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
19. FW: fantastic fan current draw
20. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
21. Re: fantastic fan current draw
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2002 22:07:48 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Tim, that brace looks bogus to me, especially the angle bracket. What
would happen if you just took it out?
Daisy
Tim Shephard wrote:
>
> I thought I would try to ask my twin bed setup question again. This time
> with pictures.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 19:23:27 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: A/S for Sale
I saw a 1975 (tho the serial number indicates a '74) 31' International, rear
twin center bath rig for sale in Tempe, AZ.
The unit has awnings both sides, and on the rear window, exterior in good
shape, but needs some polishing and maintenance to get rid of the oxidation.
Looking in the windows, it seems to be in clean condition inside, and
mostly, if not all, original.
No price shown, but if interested you can call 480-703-0723. If anyone wants
me to, I can arrange to have a look inside, or post pics.
Bob Hightower
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2002 21:58:43 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Thanks Daisy,
I did remove the braces and it seems to work much better now. The beds lay
flat and there is wood built into the backs of the couch that support it in
bed mode on the aluminum frame. I assume that is how it was meant to work.
But I cannot help to wonder what these braces were for. There were two on
each bed.....
One of life's mysteries I guess.
It would be nice for a fellow '71 Safari owner to chime it....
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 7:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Twin bed question again....
> Tim, that brace looks bogus to me, especially the angle bracket. What
> would happen if you just took it out?
>
> Daisy
>
>
>
> Tim Shephard wrote:
> >
> > I thought I would try to ask my twin bed setup question again. This
time
> > with pictures.
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 01:07:00 -0700
From: andrea szabo<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Introduction
Hello List members,
I am the proud new owner of my first airstream. Looking forward to learning
all about it.
--andrea
Andrea Szabo
1977 31' Airstream Sovereign,
Valrico, Florida.
www.home.earthlink.net/~tanderra
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 06:18:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: fantastic fan current draw
After a particularly warm weekend I have been
instructed by the boss to install a better ventilation
fan. I have seen a lot of postings about the
Fantastic fan. Obviously, this is a popular unit.
But, I almost always boondock. So, I am concerned
about the current used by the fan.
Does anyone know how much current their fantastic fan
draws? Or, can anyone relate their experience using
one while boondocking with a single deep-cycle
battery?
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
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Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
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------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 08:48:38 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dead bolt
I noticed recently on a late model top-end big motor home that it was
equipped with what I am sure was a factory equipped dead bolt. It was a
"Schlage" brand. This dead bolt was a flush mount on both the outside and
inside with a long round bolt. The outside was keyed and the inside had a
manual turner. It was mounted in the door.
I wonder where you could obtain this lock and if it could be retrofitted to
an Airstream?
Don Hardman
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 08:40:53 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dead bolt
How thick was that wall? The Airstream wall is only about 1.5" thick,
which doesn't leave room for a good lock cylinder and a bolt actuator in
the same thin wall. So the lock cylinder has to stick out.
Gerald
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 09:36:31 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: fantastic fan current draw
Greetings Jon!
After a particularly warm weekend I have been
instructed by the boss to install a better ventilation
fan. I have seen a lot of postings about the
Fantastic fan. Obviously, this is a popular unit.
But, I almost always boondock. So, I am concerned
about the current used by the fan.
Does anyone know how much current their fantastic fan
draws? Or, can anyone relate their experience using
one while boondocking with a single deep-cycle
battery?
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
I don't have the current draw statistics for my fans, but you can find
the information at the following website:
http://www.fantasticvent.com/Products.html
>From my experience with two Fantastic Vents installed in my '64
Overlander, I believe that you will need to use the fan sparingly when
boondocking with only one coach battery. When parked in my driveway, my
coach batteries (2 deep cycle RV batteries) were discharged after having
the fans (2) running on low 9-hours per day for three days with 90%
overcast. Normally, I have my thermostats set so that the fans run (on
low speed) whenever the interior temperature of the coach exceeds 90
degrees F and the pair of 50 Watt solar panels keep the batteries fully
charged with normal sunlight. My Fantastic vents are the ones with rain
sensors and thermostats. (I don't have the coach connected to shore
power when it is parked in my driveway.)
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
Kevin Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
WBCCI/VAC #6359
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 10:50:24 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dead bolt
Don. Deadbolts can some times be installed, but it depends on the year. Some
door frames will not hold up if a large hole is placed in the side of it.
The doors with the "cast" frames cannot be fitted with a standard size dead
bolt. The door frame will break. However a dead bolt with a 1/4 inch diameter
shaft can be used, but no larger.
There are many types of dead bolts. A very few are generally ok. The rest are
entirely too large, and if installed, will seriously weaken the door frame.
It's also a matter of did Airstream reinforce that section of "that" door.
Again, depends on the year.
Different years used different material for the door frames. The cast frame
looks great, but in reality, it's very weak when altered.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 15:21:15 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: fantastic fan current draw
Here are the figures from their website
SCFM Amps Decibels
High 920 3.00 40
Medium 653 2.29 39
Low 478 1.86 39
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 15:22:10 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: The dead bolt story
Hi all,
My website had to be rescued from oblivion, but now you can go to
http://home.tiac.net/~jtdjtd/aspix/deadbolt.html
to see what I did. I thought I had a Pix of the hole in the door...
Maybe I did weaken it, but the alternative was what would happen if it
flew open on the road. I never did figure out the wood thing.
The thing that failed on the original was not the lock but the strike
plate on the jam.
Daisy
PS there's stuff on the Fantastic Fan installation too.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 12:59:17 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Airstream Fans
I have two small fans in the front of my cabin. They are placed up high and
seem like original equipment. They do a great job of pulling air in from
the front window and ventilating the coach. On the "cage" is written Kenco
Fan. Does anyone else in mid 60s vintage have such fans or were these put
in after market?
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:54:02 -0400
From: "Ellis, Richard (Rick), RTLSL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Refrig and water heater questions
I have just finished my shakedown cruise in my "new to me" 1973 Tradewind. I am
really amazed at how cozy and comfortable we were in this trailer! I am also amazed
at how long it took me to get things figured out, especially all the valves in the
water
I ran into two problems and am seeking advice from the group. First related to the
refrigerator. I have the original Dometic unit which has one knob to pull and hold
out while pushing another knob which sparks a flint to light the pilot. I was interrup
The second problem relates to the Atwood water heater. It makes plenty of very hot
water, but the control unit where you switch from off to pilot to on operates very
difficultly and has a small gas leak out the top. Can the control unit be rebuilt or
re
Thanks for your advice, this group is a great resource for a new owner!
Rick Ellis
1973 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 17:12:24 -0400
From: "Melvin Mudgett-Price" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
I find the easiest way to light the fridge (only way for me as the flint
is frozen) is from the outside. You will see the red button that gets
operated from the inside, hold this up. Open the small vent hole at far
right which covers the pilot and light with one of those 2 for $3 stove
lighters. Keep the button pressed for 15 seconds or so and you're done.
Now if I only knew why my flint button won't move at all I may light it
from the inside however, I do like the hands on approach of seeing the
pilot light, light.
Mel and Sheila
'72 Trade Wind
Cleveland, OH
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:28:45 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
Check with www.rvmobile.com They have extensive information on RV
refrigerators. Their site provides some very good tech info and you can also
buy parts. I have a 1976 Sovereign and probably have the same Dometic unit.
Although I always use the electric power option I have run it on gas by
lighting the pilot from the outside compartment door. I don't think my
"striker" works either.
As for the hotwater heater you can have the entire gas control/thermostat
replaced. It is probably not a do it yourself project since there is a
special tool used to remove it. I had mine replaced by my local A/S repair
shop. Not very expensive. Replacing the hot water heater is a real project
and can be costly. So if the unit is in good shape, consider replacing the
thermostat.
Good Luck
Don Hardman
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ellis, Richard (Rick), RTLSL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: [VAC] Refrig and water heater questions
>
> I have just finished my shakedown cruise in my "new to me" 1973 Tradewind.
I am really amazed at how cozy and comfortable we were in this trailer! I
am also amazed at how long it took me to get things figured out, especially
all the valves in the water system.
>
> I ran into two problems and am seeking advice from the group. First
related to the refrigerator. I have the original Dometic unit which has one
knob to pull and hold out while pushing another knob which sparks a flint to
light the pilot. I was interrupted during my first attempt to light the
unit, when I returned about a half an hour later I made a goofball mistake.
I pulled on the spark knob and pushed on the other, the spark knob came off
in my hand. Yikes! Despite checking the Airstream Service manual and Bob
Livingston's RV repair manual and a feeble attempt to stick things back
together, I have had no success at what to do next. Looks like I might need
to slide the unit out and turn it over to repair. Am I right, or is there
a simpler solution?
>
> The second problem relates to the Atwood water heater. It makes plenty of
very hot water, but the control unit where you switch from off to pilot to
on operates very difficultly and has a small gas leak out the top. Can the
control unit be rebuilt or replaced without replacing the entire unit? In
the mean time the gas is shut off and will stay off until this is resolved.
>
> Thanks for your advice, this group is a great resource for a new owner!
>
> Rick Ellis
> 1973 Tradewind
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:39:29 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bath Exhaust fan
I finally got around to installing my bath exhaust fan and thanks Matt for
the wiring instructions. It works great, once I cleaned out the the blower
blades, and reconnected the flexible vent tube that was pushed back behind
the wheel well. I bet this thing has not worked in 15 years or more. Great
to see and hear old stuff come back to life. The next project is to see if I
can get the water pump working, but that's later on this year when it is
cooler.
Don Hardman
1976 Sovereign
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Worner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2002 12:53 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Bath Exhaust fan
> Don,
>
> Hot wire to one wire of switch, other wire of switch to one wire of fan,
other
> wire of fan to ground wire of 12 volt system. If fan runs backwards, just
> reverse the motor leads from switch and ground.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 16:04:55 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The dead bolt story
Looks nice.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 17:28:51 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
sorry I got in on the tail end of this strain but I will add my 2 cents
worth. My hot water heater in my 1971 was shutting itself off and I kept
having to relight it . thought something was wrong with the thermastat until
I read some of the mostly rubbed off instructions and warnings on the
unit(when in doubt read the directions is a lesson I am still struggling
with) anyway it seems that there is a shutoff mechanism and when the water
gets dangerously hot the unit shuts down and has to be lighted again. I
turned the thermastat down and it has'nt shut off yet. thought you might
like to know.
Gina
>From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Refrig and water heater questions
>Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 16:28:45 -0500
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>
>Check with www.rvmobile.com They have extensive information on RV
>refrigerators. Their site provides some very good tech info and you can
>also
>buy parts. I have a 1976 Sovereign and probably have the same Dometic unit.
>Although I always use the electric power option I have run it on gas by
>lighting the pilot from the outside compartment door. I don't think my
>"striker" works either.
>
>As for the hotwater heater you can have the entire gas control/thermostat
>replaced. It is probably not a do it yourself project since there is a
>special tool used to remove it. I had mine replaced by my local A/S repair
>shop. Not very expensive. Replacing the hot water heater is a real project
>and can be costly. So if the unit is in good shape, consider replacing the
>thermostat.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Don Hardman
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ellis, Richard (Rick), RTLSL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 3:54 PM
>Subject: [VAC] Refrig and water heater questions
>
>
> >
> > I have just finished my shakedown cruise in my "new to me" 1973
>Tradewind.
>I am really amazed at how cozy and comfortable we were in this trailer! I
>am also amazed at how long it took me to get things figured out, especially
>all the valves in the water system.
> >
> > I ran into two problems and am seeking advice from the group. First
>related to the refrigerator. I have the original Dometic unit which has
>one
>knob to pull and hold out while pushing another knob which sparks a flint
>to
>light the pilot. I was interrupted during my first attempt to light the
>unit, when I returned about a half an hour later I made a goofball mistake.
>I pulled on the spark knob and pushed on the other, the spark knob came off
>in my hand. Yikes! Despite checking the Airstream Service manual and Bob
>Livingston's RV repair manual and a feeble attempt to stick things back
>together, I have had no success at what to do next. Looks like I might
>need
>to slide the unit out and turn it over to repair. Am I right, or is there
>a simpler solution?
> >
> > The second problem relates to the Atwood water heater. It makes plenty
>of
>very hot water, but the control unit where you switch from off to pilot to
>on operates very difficultly and has a small gas leak out the top. Can the
>control unit be rebuilt or replaced without replacing the entire unit? In
>the mean time the gas is shut off and will stay off until this is resolved.
> >
> > Thanks for your advice, this group is a great resource for a new owner!
> >
> > Rick Ellis
> > 1973 Tradewind
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 17:44:29 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: fantastic fan current draw
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin D. Allen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 8:37 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [VAC] fantastic fan current draw
Greetings Jon!
After a particularly warm weekend I have been
instructed by the boss to install a better ventilation
fan. I have seen a lot of postings about the
Fantastic fan. Obviously, this is a popular unit.
But, I almost always boondock. So, I am concerned
about the current used by the fan.
Does anyone know how much current their fantastic fan
draws? Or, can anyone relate their experience using
one while boondocking with a single deep-cycle
battery?
Jon in SC
68 Overlander
__________________________________________________
I don't have the current draw statistics for my fans, but you can find
the information at the following website:
http://www.fantasticvent.com/Products.html
>From my experience with two Fantastic Vents installed in my '64
Overlander, I believe that you will need to use the fan sparingly when
boondocking with only one coach battery. When parked in my driveway, my
coach batteries (2 deep cycle RV batteries) were discharged after having
the fans (2) running on low 9-hours per day for three days with 90%
overcast. Normally, I have my thermostats set so that the fans run (on
low speed) whenever the interior temperature of the coach exceeds 90
degrees F and the pair of 50 Watt solar panels keep the batteries fully
charged with normal sunlight. My Fantastic vents are the ones with rain
sensors and thermostats. (I don't have the coach connected to shore
power when it is parked in my driveway.)
Do You Yahoo!?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
Kevin Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
WBCCI/VAC #6359
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 19:15:16 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
Ellis, Richard (Rick), RTLSL wrote:
<<..>>
>I ran into two problems and am seeking advice from the group. First related to the
>refrigerator. I have the original Dometic unit which has one knob to pull and hold
>out while pushing another knob which sparks a flint to light the pilot. I was interru
I'm assuming that the rod came out with the knob- it is
possible to reinstall the rod- it is just a press fit into the piezo
assembly, but it can be *very* frustrating. I try to shine a light in
to see where the end of the piezo assembly is, and then try to "fish"
around and get the rod back in to the center (move it around until you
feel it hit something, then try to zero in on the right place).
>The second problem relates to the Atwood water heater. It makes plenty of very hot
>water, but the control unit where you switch from off to pilot to on operates very
>difficultly and has a small gas leak out the top. Can the control unit be rebuilt or
>r
Alas- in 1973, there were instructions and kits to rebuild the
water heater valve- the top knob actually is attached to a cone (with
passageways drilled in to it), which fits in to a matching hole in the
top of the valve. What seals this is grease- and the grease had dried
out, making it hard to move, and letting it leak.
Todays litigious climate makes these assemblies non-reparable,
but back in the "good old days", removing the cone, cleaning it, and
re greasing it with "valve grease" which is rated for LP gas would
have been the fix.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 19:27:31 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: fantastic fan current draw
Jon and Kevin: The Fantastic fan draws 1.86 amps on low speed and up to 3
amps on high speed. Medium speed is somewhere in the middle.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
>
> Does anyone know how much current their fantastic fan
> draws? Or, can anyone relate their experience using
> one while boondocking with a single deep-cycle
> battery?
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #358
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