VACList DigestVACList-Digest Tuesday, July 9, 2002 Issue 359
Today's Topics:
1. Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
2. RV Documentary/RV History
3. Re: jacking 68 Sovereign
4. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
5. Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
6. Re: Refrig and water heater questions
7. '74 Argosy 22 service manual?
8. Re: '74 Argosy 22 service manual?
9. Re: Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
10. Re: Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
11. Re: Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
12. Re: Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
13. Mounting microwave
14. Re:
15. Re: Mounting microwave
16. Re: Mounting microwave
17. Re: Mounting microwave
18. Re: Mounting microwave
19. Re: Mounting microwave
20. Whitewall Spare for 62 Bambi
21. Re: Mounting microwave
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 18:51:58 -0700
From: "Arlen & Shirley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
I have seen some recent posts regarding screws in aluminum and corrosion,
and wanted to add my opinions to the subject. There was a comment regarding
using aluminum oxide paste under the screw. I do not see how this would be
of any benefit, and would actually be a determent, as it provides place for
moisture to better wick into the joint between the screw and the aluminum.
You will have plenty of aluminum oxide soon enough without adding any more
to start with!
In simple theory, two dissimilar metals in contact in the presence of an
electrolyte (moisture plus pollution, acids, smog) form a battery. The more
noble metal becomes the cathode and the less noble metal becomes the
SACRIFICIAL anode. A galvanized steel screw is less noble than most alloys
of aluminum, and the screw will corrode first. But alas, as the galvanized
plating deteriorates it exposes the steel, and soon both the aluminum and
bare steel are corroding. One can use stainless steel screws, but most
stainless steel is more noble than most aluminum alloys and the aluminum
becomes sacrificial. What to do?
Fortunately, this is a well know issue with aircraft builders and owners -
they like sound aluminum and pretty screws too! The practical solution is
to use a thin nylon washer under a stainless steel screw head. This
isolates the contact point where the screw head contacts the skin and seals
the area where the screw threads go into the aluminum. This is not a perfect
solution as there is still electrical contact, but it provides a practical
compromise. These nylon washers are usually available from the same source
as the nice truss head screws - aircraft hardware supply houses. Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty is one well known supplier.
On the same subject, you should use a barrier between any non-aluminum
fittings or name plates attached to the skin. A piece of Mylar sheet cut to
the shape of the contact area works well.
There is a great deal of both practical and theoretical information at this
NASA site regarding corrosion. This page includes a nobility chart for
metals.
http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov/html/galcorr.htm
One last comment about stainless screws. Most stainless steel screws are
relatively soft, weak, and do not have nice smooth thread form. On new
installations, screw a carbon steel screw into the hole first to form the
threads. Remove it and install the stainless screw with the nylon washer.
Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
1964 Globetrotter
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 19:07:42 -0700
From: "Richard McFarland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RV Documentary/RV History
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2002 08:16:29 -0400
> From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: RV Documentary Series
>
> I got a message from Amazon about a book by Phil Noyes based on a PBS
series
> ,"California Gold; A History of the RV in America". It is suppose to air
in
> the Spring of 2002. Has anyone heard of it or seen it on tv?
> Rick Langer
> '66 GlobeTrotter
> #3847,VAC,TCT
>
Rick - when you first posted your question - I replied - and now here is an
update to that reply:
It appears that all of the information within your question could be
related.
I have yet to see a listing of when the TV show is expected to be
released/shown on PBS.
I have the RV History book on pre-order with Amazon - on 6/25 I received an
e-mail update from them - it said they hoped for a release date of July 8,
2002 - but they did suggest that the release date was subject to change.
I checked my Amazon on-line account today - and the suggested delivery date
on my order shows December,2002.
RL McFarland
'36 Mystery
'41 Kozy
'51 Custom Tent
'77 Mercury Colony Park/ '01 Tundra
VAC/TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2002 21:14:19 -0400
From: "Edward Emerick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jacking 68 Sovereign
Hello,
My 68 sovereign is 30-footer. It has places marked on the belly pan that
are marked to place the jack. Jacking up the trailer at other places
could result in a wrinkled side panel.
Thanks
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Richard P. Kenan
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2002 10:13 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: jacking 68 Sovereign
Stand there and supervise. You should *not* jack on the axle
itself, IIRC earlier posts on this list (as well as my more recent -
1995 -
manual). I think it bends the axle, which is a tube filled with some
kind
of elastic material - rubber?.
I didn't know AS made a 40' trailer in 1968. Maybe you meant a
34
footer?
- Dick
(5368)
At 07:18 PM 7/2/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I have a question that probably seems obvious - but here goes,.
>
>Can you jack a 68 40 foot Sovereign International by placing the jack
>under an axle, or will that damage the axle assembly?
>
> I know that Airstream put a nice labeled jack point on the frame just
> aft of the rear dual axle, but I also know that if I am not physically
> present, my tire shop will ignore my instructions and simply jack up
from
> the axle.
>
>Will they bend something?
>
>(In other words do I have to stand there and supervise?)
>
>Robert S. Ramsay
>Victoria, B.C.
>68 Sovereign International
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is
over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 22:26:30 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
Don Hardman wrote:
Atwood is standard on most RV's, so you don't need an AS dealer to fix
it.
Daisy
> As for the hotwater heater you can have the entire gas control/thermostat
> replaced. It is probably not a do it yourself project since there is a
> special tool used to remove it. I had mine replaced by my local A/S repair
> shop. Not very expensive. Replacing the hot water heater is a real project
> and can be costly. So if the unit is in good shape, consider replacing the
> thermostat.
>
> Good Luck
>
> Don Hardman
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ellis, Richard (Rick), RTLSL" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 3:54 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Refrig and water heater questions
>
> >
> > I have just finished my shakedown cruise in my "new to me" 1973 Tradewind.
> I am really amazed at how cozy and comfortable we were in this trailer! I
> am also amazed at how long it took me to get things figured out, especially
> all the valves in the water system.
> >
> > I ran into two problems and am seeking advice from the group. First
> related to the refrigerator. I have the original Dometic unit which has one
> knob to pull and hold out while pushing another knob which sparks a flint to
> light the pilot. I was interrupted during my first attempt to light the
> unit, when I returned about a half an hour later I made a goofball mistake.
> I pulled on the spark knob and pushed on the other, the spark knob came off
> in my hand. Yikes! Despite checking the Airstream Service manual and Bob
> Livingston's RV repair manual and a feeble attempt to stick things back
> together, I have had no success at what to do next. Looks like I might need
> to slide the unit out and turn it over to repair. Am I right, or is there
> a simpler solution?
> >
> > The second problem relates to the Atwood water heater. It makes plenty of
> very hot water, but the control unit where you switch from off to pilot to
> on operates very difficultly and has a small gas leak out the top. Can the
> control unit be rebuilt or replaced without replacing the entire unit? In
> the mean time the gas is shut off and will stay off until this is resolved.
> >
> > Thanks for your advice, this group is a great resource for a new owner!
> >
> > Rick Ellis
> > 1973 Tradewind
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 20:32:45 -0700
From: "C. Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
Hi all,
I posted this request a while back and am trying again.
I need some information, diagrams, about the Saniware toilet in my 59
Traveler.
The black rubber flapper doesn't seem to close tightly and I'm looking for a
seat and lid replacement.
Can any of you help me? I'd sure appreciate it.
Cindy
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2002 21:38:06 -0600
From: Jere Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrig and water heater questions
on 7/8/02 3:12 PM, Melvin Mudgett-Price at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I find the easiest way to light the fridge (only way for me as the flint
> is frozen) is from the outside. You will see the red button that gets
> operated from the inside, hold this up.
This is exactly how I light mine, after trying to fix the peizo starter,
which was never reliable.
Jere Potter,
Fort Collins, CO
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 01:14:24 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: '74 Argosy 22 service manual?
Hi all,
I purchased a '74 Argosy 22 and find that the electrical system is
hopelessly screwed up. Have dead shorts between hot, neutral, and ground.
The owner's manual isn't much help.
Is there a service manual much like those available for Airstream units?
If not, does anyone have an electrical schematic for the '74 Argosy 22 with
the rear curb side entry?
Appreciate any help.
Regards, JoyTBrew
'69 Safari 23
'74 Argosy 22
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 08:07:51 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '74 Argosy 22 service manual?
Mr. Joy H. Hansen wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I purchased a '74 Argosy 22 and find that the electrical system is
>hopelessly screwed up. Have dead shorts between hot, neutral, and ground.
>The owner's manual isn't much help.
>
>Is there a service manual much like those available for Airstream units?
>
>If not, does anyone have an electrical schematic for the '74 Argosy 22 with
>the rear curb side entry?
I've emailed Airstream schematics to Argosy owners, but they
are *apparently* enough different so as to be not useful- but..
I *think* that the Argosy will be wired in the same way as the
Airstream0 all of the wiring runs in the center of the ceiling- 120
volt on one side, 12 volt on the other, and runs from here down to
each fixture.
I would start at all the fixtures, though- I find the problems
are usually there.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:48:55 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
Cindy. Your toilet and parts for it have not been available for about 30
years.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 10:07:24 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Swirlomatic toilet by Saniware
Don't you just love that name, "Swirlomatic," it sorta says it all. To bad
about the parts.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 08:17:51 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
Dear Arlen & Shirley,
Thanx for your most informative post about fasteners and corrosion.
While I understand that these principles always apply, my question is . . .
"Do the same precautions apply when joining structural aluminum members?"
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arlen & Shirley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 6:51 PM
Subject: [VAC] Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
> I have seen some recent posts regarding screws in aluminum and corrosion,
> and wanted to add my opinions to the subject. There was a comment
regarding
> using aluminum oxide paste under the screw. I do not see how this would be
> of any benefit, and would actually be a determent, as it provides place
for
> moisture to better wick into the joint between the screw and the aluminum.
> You will have plenty of aluminum oxide soon enough without adding any more
> to start with!
>
> In simple theory, two dissimilar metals in contact in the presence of an
> electrolyte (moisture plus pollution, acids, smog) form a battery. The
more
> noble metal becomes the cathode and the less noble metal becomes the
> SACRIFICIAL anode. A galvanized steel screw is less noble than most alloys
> of aluminum, and the screw will corrode first. But alas, as the galvanized
> plating deteriorates it exposes the steel, and soon both the aluminum and
> bare steel are corroding. One can use stainless steel screws, but most
> stainless steel is more noble than most aluminum alloys and the aluminum
> becomes sacrificial. What to do?
>
> Fortunately, this is a well know issue with aircraft builders and owners -
> they like sound aluminum and pretty screws too! The practical solution is
> to use a thin nylon washer under a stainless steel screw head. This
> isolates the contact point where the screw head contacts the skin and
seals
> the area where the screw threads go into the aluminum. This is not a
perfect
> solution as there is still electrical contact, but it provides a practical
> compromise. These nylon washers are usually available from the same source
> as the nice truss head screws - aircraft hardware supply houses. Aircraft
> Spruce and Specialty is one well known supplier.
>
> On the same subject, you should use a barrier between any non-aluminum
> fittings or name plates attached to the skin. A piece of Mylar sheet cut
to
> the shape of the contact area works well.
>
> There is a great deal of both practical and theoretical information at
this
> NASA site regarding corrosion. This page includes a nobility chart for
> metals.
> http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov/html/galcorr.htm
>
> One last comment about stainless screws. Most stainless steel screws are
> relatively soft, weak, and do not have nice smooth thread form. On new
> installations, screw a carbon steel screw into the hole first to form the
> threads. Remove it and install the stainless screw with the nylon washer.
>
> Arlen & Shirley Manning Napa CA
> 1964 Globetrotter
> http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 09:23:03 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum, Fasteners and Corrosion
YES!
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:28:20 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Mounting microwave
I picked up a small microwave for the trailer.
I need a way to secure it to the counter top. Are there any cool ways to do
this or do I just cobble something togther ;-)
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 09:37:15 -0400
From: Daniel F Cleary <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
oN VACATION PLEASE DISCONTINUE MAILING
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 12:58:50 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
I have seen it where people drill holes in the counter top where they want
the microwave to go, and run screws/bolts from underneath the counter into
the locations on the microwave where the feet are screwed into.
This assumes that you have screw on feet on your Microwave, and that you
dont mind drilling holes in your counter top.
We have a small bookshelf located along roadside wall in the living/dining
area of our trailer. We keep a small microwave on the shelf, held in with a
bungee cord whilst traveling, and just take it out (or use it on the shelf,
if we dont mind bending over :-) to use it.
Dave
At 09:28 AM 7/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I picked up a small microwave for the trailer.
>
>I need a way to secure it to the counter top. Are there any cool ways to do
>this or do I just cobble something togther ;-)
>
>-Tim
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
>eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:57:04 -0400
From: Garnett Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
Tim,
I have a microwave installed using the shock mounts at
http://www.tpcdayton.com/vibration/productinfo/platemnts/index.htm
I removed the 'feet' from the microwave. I used an oak 1"x3" and cut two
pieces the same width as the panel over the fridge. I mounted the two
front shock mounts to one 1x3 and the rear ones on the other 1x3. I bored
a hole in the 1x3, large enough to accommodate the rubber part of the shock
mount. The mount was then screwed to the oak 1x3. Only trick is to get
the correct spacing between the left and right mounts. The center tap on
the mount was attached to the microwave.
It's worked for me for about three years. I just have to remember to
remove the rotating glass plate when I'm traveling otherwise it bangs the
interior.
Your installation may be different but hopefully this will give you some ideas.
Garnett Horner
WDCU, 2878
At 09:28 AM 7/9/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I picked up a small microwave for the trailer.
>
>I need a way to secure it to the counter top. Are there any cool ways to do
>this or do I just cobble something togther ;-)
>
>-Tim
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
>eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 13:21:52 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
on 07/09/02 12:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I picked up a small microwave for the trailer.
>
> I need a way to secure it to the counter top. Are there any cool ways to do
> this or do I just cobble something togther ;-)
>
> -Tim
Hi Tim,
Before you do that, have you considered carrying it in a cupboard (or
closet) and only putting it on the countertop when you plan to use it? In
our 22' Safari, counter space is sparce. That prompts my question.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 12:54:15 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
> Before you do that, have you considered carrying it in a cupboard (or
> closet) and only putting it on the countertop when you plan to use it? In
> our 22' Safari, counter space is sparce. That prompts my question.
>
> Terry
I think that is generally good advise. We all have small appliances like
laptops, TV/VCR's that may have a nice nesting place. Does not mean that we
have to build a brace to hold the units against all the forces including
rotational that apply to a moving trailer. I think putting on a padded
floor or wrapped in a comforter and bungeed to hold is the way to go.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 16:25:33 -0400
From: Cynthia Grant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
We are thinking of mounting a small microwave underneath the cabinet over the counter
... it looks like it will fit nicely, and putting it there leaves the countertop free.
Any caveats to that plan that we haven't thought of?
Cynthia
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry Tyler [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2002 12:22 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Mounting microwave
>
>
> on 07/09/02 12:28 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > I picked up a small microwave for the trailer.
> >
> > I need a way to secure it to the counter top. Are there
> any cool ways to do
> > this or do I just cobble something togther ;-)
> >
> > -Tim
>
> Hi Tim,
>
> Before you do that, have you considered carrying it in a cupboard (or
> closet) and only putting it on the countertop when you plan
> to use it? In
> our 22' Safari, counter space is sparce. That prompts my question.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary
> original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2002 18:33:24 -0400
From: "Kit Sullivan Mac.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Whitewall Spare for 62 Bambi
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone has a source for whitewall tires for a 62 Bambi?
I am looking to get a full spare with whitewall tire before a trip this
weekend. Thank you!
The Sullivan's
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2002 17:01:30 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mounting microwave
> We are thinking of mounting a small microwave underneath the cabinet over
the counter ... it looks like it will fit nicely, and putting it there
leaves the countertop free. Any caveats to that plan that we haven't
thought of?
>
> Cynthia
Hi Cynthia:
You didn't say what year and model of A/S that you have, but unless it is
built lot different than mine I can't imagine supporting the mass of a
microwave oven from an overhead cabinet. It's a wonder that they stay
connected to the ceiling as it is. It's not only the weight of the oven,
but the forces from bouncing. I do what Terry does, ie, put the thing in a
closet near the floor unless I'm stopped and it's actually being used. Then
put it on the counter top over the fridge and plug it in. No problem.
Good luck,
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #359
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