VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, July 5, 2002 Issue 355
Today's Topics:
1. MAIL
2. Love the sig line
3. Olympic rivets
4. Re: galvanic action
5. Re: galvanic action
6. Re: Olympic rivets
7. Bone Yards
8. Caulking
9. Re: Has anyone tried this?
10. Re: Battery question
11. Re: Battery question
12. Re: Has anyone tried this?
13. Black tank mystery
14. Re: Battery question
15. Re: Help--A/C while towing
16. Re: Caulking
17. Re: Caulking
18. Re: Caulking
19. Re: Has anyone tried this?
20. Re: Has anyone tried this?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 18:35:16 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: MAIL
MAIL
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:32:27 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Love the sig line
Way to go Dan Weeks.
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'72 Ambassador International 29'
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Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:06:32 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Olympic rivets
I am replacing a number of exterior rivets and thought I would pass along my
experience so that someone else might avoid the same mistake I made. When I
bought the rivets I noted they were available with or without little
washers. I bought some of each. The rivets with washers were recommended
for higher on the coach where leaks might be more of a problem. I then read
Andy's advice to put a small amount of Vulcem on the shaft of each rivet as
it is installed.
After all the posts about leaks I resolved to be doubly safe so I used the
rivets with washers and a small amount of Vulcem. That was yesterday so
today I went to clean off the small amount of excess vulcem only to find
that the little black washers showed at the base of every rivet. In some
cases the washers had actually squeezed out from underneath the rivet
leaving a tiny little black loop. I don't know if this was a result of
using the washers with vulcem or if the washers are designed to show but I
felt it was not an acceptable look. So today I drilled out yesterday's work
and replaced it with plain rivets with a small dab of vulcem on the shaft.
Let me know if you have had better results with the little washers.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:07:07 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: galvanic action
Gerald J wrote:
> I don't remember that post, but I'd recommend using only stainless steel
> or aluminum fasteners touching aluminum. Anything else will corrode.
> Aluminum oxide powder won't stick to other metals much, but if its not
> extremely fine powder will punch holes in the aluminum oxide inherent on
> the aluminum skin. Aluminum oxide makes very nice long lived sand paper.
>
> Stainless steel fasteners on aluminum work decently in the weather.
> Aluminum work slightly better over decades. Plain or plated steel
> fasteners disappear in blobs of rust in a short time in the weather.
Thanks for responding. I am in the process of replacing a number of blobs
of rust that used to be galvanized screws. I hope everyone on the list
knows that stainless fasteners are readily available and very cheap compared
to almost anything else we do to indulge our aluminum habits.
The aluminum oxide I bought is a white paste made for use on the skin, for
example to block out the sun. It is creamy, not abrasive,
I don't understand what you mean by "will punch holes in the aluminum
oxide". Do you mean this in a good way as in it polishes the oxidized
aluminum or in a bad way as in it will eat holes in your Airstream? Or are
you refering to the abrasive quality of the aluminum oxide used for sand
paper.
Thanks again,
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 19:33:42 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: galvanic action
All aluminum oxide is abrasive. The creme may be very fine but it will
grind metals quite well. One of the benefits of using aluminum for
structures is that it naturally oxidizes to protect the metal. Using a
cream seems to me to be asking to break that natural protection allows
direct metal to metal contact. When the other metal is stainless steel
that's going to cause some problems. Not nearly as much as if the other
metal was steel. I'm referring to pushing holes in the aluminum oxide
layer with particles of the cream however fine. I don't think that's
beneficial.
Aluminum oxide is the bases of modern grinding wheels, sandpaper, and a
pretty good white oxide pigment.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 07:56:12 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Olympic rivets
Dick-
I used a BUNCH of the Olympic Rivets with the washers, in many places all
over my coach, without Vulkem. I hadn't heard the Vulkem idea in those days.
I am a bit sparing with the stuff as it's hard to come by in my part of the
world -- off the web or mail order only, so I've used it seams or seam like
applications only. Great stuff.
But I've never known the rubber washers to herniate out from under the rivets
as you describe. Could the Vulkem volatiles be breaking down the rubber? I
believe it is polyethylene based.
Good luck and kudos for sticking to your aesthetic determination despite the
extra work.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 06:45:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Pillar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bone Yards
Hi,
I'm looking for the front couch and table for a 66
Safari. My best bet may be a RV bone yard. Is there a
listing of bone yards specifically in Illinois,
Wisconsin or Indiana.
Thanks
Ray Pillar
Aurora, IL
WBCCI# 6514
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------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 09:20:50 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Caulking
I am looking for a silicone based caulking in red and or blue. I can fine
white, black, brown and grey. Anuone know where I might be able to find red
and blue.
Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 10:04:02 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
the only concern I would have is the wax could yellow with age. if it did
you have to strip it with ammonia and reapply
gina
>From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>Subject: [VAC] Re: Has anyone tried this?
>Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 05:21:34 -0400
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>
>
>
> > Has anyone tried this Future Floor Wax thing?
> >
> > http://inlandrv.com/articles/interior5bucks.htm
> >
> > I assume it will work on the walls of my '71 Safari.
> >
> > -Tim
>
>We tried it. The walls look great. We had to do it three times to get rid
>of
>the sticky feeling the inside panels had, but it worked just fine.
>
>I think it took 3 times because the coach was locked up tight for 5 years
>before we bought it.
>
>Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
>'72 Ambassador International 29'
>
>
>
>
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Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 11:34:43 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Battery question
When it comes to safety, there is no room for flexibility. Our aviation
industry would be in shambles if they used "solid" wire.
10 gauge wire, regardless of being solid or stranded, carries the same amount
of current. The more strands, the more flexible.
I for one, cannot imagine the feeling I would have, when I applied the
trailer brakes to make a panic stop, only to find that they didn't work,
because of a broken single strand wire.
Simple "ohms law" does not agree with your "understanding."
The real purpose of this site, as well as others, is to exchange information
and knowledge, for the benefit of others AND especially for the beginner.
Posting of any information that is incorrect or misleading can influence some
of those that may not have the background of others.
It is for that reason, that Dr. G, and I disagree with you.
We do live in a free country, and can do most anything we want to. However,
if we do something that causes injury to a person or other property, we
become IMMEDIATELY LIABLE, PERIOD.
Furthermore, check with as many dealers as you wish, and you won't find a
single one of them that uses "solid wire." The liability is horrendous.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 11:16:55 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery question
On Fri, 5 Jul 2002 11:34:43 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>When it comes to safety, there is no room for flexibility. Our aviation
>industry would be in shambles if they used "solid" wire.
>10 gauge wire,
wow!
that is weird!
after all, the only wire I was talking about was the CHARGING LINE. and that
does not even have to go thru the usual round plug. all of those wires are
"messenger" lines and can be multi strand 14ga if you want, or smaller. They do
not carry great amounts of current. nor do what they activate require a lot of
juice.
Please, lets reduce the level of panic in our voices here and calmly talk about
a Battery charging line which has nothing to do with safety.
and not about lines which ARE involved in safety.
I fully agree on using the usual wiring which is commonly webbed and is coated
in different colors and is of 16ga or 14ga if you are lucky, for the umbilical,
etc. In fact, between my back bumper and the "black"? line connection on the
round 7 pin, I choke down from the 8 ga or whatever I bought where it terminates
on my bumper, to the max size stranded that the plug will take. the umbilical is
a standard round cable with what appears to be a mess of 12ga stranded which I
bought from you Andy or from the AS dealer here in Houston. In fact, I plan to
make another, longer umbilical so that my truck can stand off from the trailer
and still power it.
Point is Andy, I am just as concerned about safety as you are and have said
NOTHING about the messenger wiring such as comes from the brake controller, etc
and which was installed on this truck by a past dealer for AS since the early
60s in accordance with the instructions of Hayes.
and by the way, if anyone needs maintenance on an AS product and you are near
Houston, (forget the people in Sealy PLEASE) I suggest that you contact Bob
Jones RV ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) in the vicinity of Hobby Airport.
I hope that this satisfies everyone with my mutual concern for safety.
I never tow my trailer without full batteries ON the trailer which power the
breakaway switch and the turn signals and brake lights, etc.
I am a long time shooter and a certified shooting instructor in most of the
disciplines and I know safety. As an officer in the ARmy, I had to know safety
to protect the troops whose training I was overseeing virtually every day once I
returned from RVN. iow, I am very safety conscious. I do not respond well to
panic or screaming emails implying that I am talking about an unsafe practice.
I censured an individual on another AS list about carrying 1lb propane bottles
in a sewage hose storage tube suspended below the belly of a trailer, as being
an unsafe practice. I know what is safe and what is irresponsible.
My talking about single wire usage to transmit charging voltage to the trailer's
batteries is NOT unsafe. Finally, I have talked with a couple of journeymen
electricians (Houston uses the National Code but with still greater
restrictions) and they verify what I was taught which is that stranded wire has
higher impedance or resistance than does single strand when compared in equal
guages. iow, to get the same amount of resistance to a single strand 8 ga, you
would have to have ABOUT 6 ga stranded.
I am not going to discuss this further as I did not make my comment for any
reason other than to say, that to get the most amount of DC Voltage the 25ft
from your truck's batteries to the umbilical on the back plane of your tow
vehicle, you need to use as Low Resistance wiring as possible and as Large guage
as possible. I do resent being misconstrued and misinterpreted.
Finally, I was an Airstream Mechanic for two years while I worked my way thru
school to complete my PhD after leaving the USArmy back in the early 70s. I am
not totally ignorant of how anything is done on any trailer much less an
Airstream as I have done virtually all that can be done on a Streamer up to
rebuilding a 50% wreck from the rear forward or the middle back shall we say.
enough and an end to it.
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign
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------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 12:35:33 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
Gina. I applied the "future floor wax" to the 1973 31 foot trailer that the
factory provided to me when I traveled the country for Caravanner Insurance.
I happened to see that trailer a short time ago, and the color of the wax was
absolutely clear, the same as I applied it, almost 30 years ago.
Not saying it won't discolor, but if it lasts 30 years without changing
color, that's not too shabby.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 10:03:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ray Pillar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Black tank mystery
Hi,
How is the black tank held in place? I had the pan
rebuild and can't figure out how it's held up there.
Ray Pillar
WBCCI 6514
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------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 11:04:24 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery question
However the charging usually does go through the round plug.
The battery charging line has a whole lot to do with safety. If not
protected by fuses AT BOTH ends, it can be a source of ignition of
trailer or towing vehicle if the insulation wears through or gets
pinched, or is punctured by the sharp end of a break. A couple kilo amps
from a battery will heat that wire to ignition of the insulation and the
surroundings (like floor mat, floor insulation, carpet) very rapidly,
seconds at the longest.
Stranded wire does NOT have higher resistance than solid of the same
gauge. Those electricians forgot how to read a decade ago. And never
read the table in the Standard Handbook for Electrical Engineers that
shows resistance and cross section of solid and stranded electrical
wires. They also never designed wiring for vehicles in motion.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 13:27:49 -0400
From: john dorsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help--A/C while towing
Dan,
Fancy cars like caddys and lincons have a check valve and a vacuum
reservoir to keep that from happening. I would think that an '86 caprice
would be high-end enough have that setup also. You might check and see,
as the check valve may be bad (one good backfire can kill one). If you
don't have one you can add one, you have to install it in the vacuum
line that goes ONLY to the a/c, and the line has to go through it (in
one fitting and out the other) not just teed into the line.
Another thing to look at is that the diaphragm in the actuator may have
a hole in it. If it does a reservoir and check valve won't stop the
problem just delay it shortly.
An '86 probably does have a compressor cutout at full throttle. It can
be disabled but will cut back on your available power.
Dan Weeks wrote:
>
> I regularly use the A/C while towing in my 86 Caprice 305 4V, and have no
> problem keeping coolant and trans oil temps cool. The car interior is cool,
> too--except when manifold vacuum drops to near zero in headwinds or while
> climbing hills, the vacuum-operated air doors in the HVAC system default to
> defrost mode, blasting the hot windshield with cold air instead of the
> passengers. I've noticed other vehicles do the same thing when running wide
> open for any length of time. My brother the mechanic speculated that one
> could install a check valve in the vacuum line to the air doors. Has anyone
> ever done this? Know what parts to get, from where? Or is there some way to
> just jury-rig the system to stay set on using the dash a/c vents until
> summer is over?
>
> ALso, am I right that at full throttle, the compressor automatically is
> clutched out for maximum power to the wheels? If I go from zero vaccuum at
> full throttle and actually hit the kickdown switch, I don't even seem to get
> cold air.
>
> Dan
> 75 Argosy 26
> 86 Chevy Caprice Classic Wagon, 168k
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
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>
>
--
John Dorsey
Wauchula FL
http://www.strato.net/~jrdorsey
'49 3800 Chevy Panel
'52 640 GMC Firetruck
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 13:59:37 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Caulking
Form-a-gasket or perma-seal engine gasket goo for coating or replacing gaskets
from any auto part store .
Chris
Don Hardman wrote:
> I am looking for a silicone based caulking in red and or blue.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 13:50:20 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Caulking
Thanks I will try that
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Elliott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 12:59 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Caulking
> Form-a-gasket or perma-seal engine gasket goo for coating or replacing
gaskets
> from any auto part store .
> Chris
>
> Don Hardman wrote:
>
> > I am looking for a silicone based caulking in red and or blue.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:47:12 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Caulking
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Caulking
> I am looking for a silicone based caulking in red and or blue. I can fine
> white, black, brown and grey. Anuone know where I might be able to find
red
> and blue.
Try Color Rite Inc at http://www.colorriteinc.com/
Their Rite Poly_Sil is silicone based but has a granite look based on their
description. Their regular caulking is used for filing seams in laminate
counters and floors but I'm not sure of the composition.
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 15:49:40 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
I think future floor finish is acrylic based not wax. Not positive but that
may prevent the yellowing.
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:35 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Has anyone tried this?
> Gina. I applied the "future floor wax" to the 1973 31 foot trailer that
the
> factory provided to me when I traveled the country for Caravanner
Insurance.
> I happened to see that trailer a short time ago, and the color of the wax
was
> absolutely clear, the same as I applied it, almost 30 years ago.
>
> Not saying it won't discolor, but if it lasts 30 years without changing
> color, that's not too shabby.
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 18:49:45 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
didn't have the same luck with my floors but maybe wall are different and it
DOES look good. I think I'll do it to mine.
gina
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Has anyone tried this?
>Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 12:35:33 EDT
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>Gina. I applied the "future floor wax" to the 1973 31 foot trailer that the
>factory provided to me when I traveled the country for Caravanner
>Insurance.
>I happened to see that trailer a short time ago, and the color of the wax
>was
>absolutely clear, the same as I applied it, almost 30 years ago.
>
>Not saying it won't discolor, but if it lasts 30 years without changing
>color, that's not too shabby.
>
>Andy
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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