VACList DigestVACList-Digest Saturday, July 6, 2002 Issue 356
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Olympic rivets
2. Re: Olympic rivets
3. Re: Olympic rivets, and wire
4. Re: Rivets w/ or w/o washers
5. Twin bed question again....
6. Re: A/C While Towing
7. Re: Twin bed question again....
8. Re: Has anyone tried this?
9. My new cabinet doors
10. Re: Has anyone tried this?
11. Re: Twin bed question again....
12. Re: Twin bed question again....
13. Re: Twin bed question again....
14. Re: Twin bed question again....
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 20:21:48 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Olympic rivets
Dick, my understanding is to use plain rivets (no washer) because in time
the washer dries out and you can get leaks. Vulkem under a plain rivet
doesn't dry out -- or it takes a very long time if it does. It's still
plastic on my ' 68 Tradewind
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick and Kris Parins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 21:06
Subject: [VAC] Olympic rivets
> I am replacing a number of exterior rivets and thought I would pass along
my
> experience so that someone else might avoid the same mistake I made. When
I
> bought the rivets I noted they were available with or without little
> washers. I bought some of each. The rivets with washers were recommended
> for higher on the coach where leaks might be more of a problem. I then
read
> Andy's advice to put a small amount of Vulcem on the shaft of each rivet
as
> it is installed.
>
> After all the posts about leaks I resolved to be doubly safe so I used the
> rivets with washers and a small amount of Vulcem. That was yesterday so
> today I went to clean off the small amount of excess vulcem only to find
> that the little black washers showed at the base of every rivet. In some
> cases the washers had actually squeezed out from underneath the rivet
> leaving a tiny little black loop. I don't know if this was a result of
> using the washers with vulcem or if the washers are designed to show but I
> felt it was not an acceptable look. So today I drilled out yesterday's
work
> and replaced it with plain rivets with a small dab of vulcem on the shaft.
>
> Let me know if you have had better results with the little washers.
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 17:40:16 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Olympic rivets
Dick,
I've never been able to get those little washers to work, with or
without Vulkem - they always squish out somewhere, so I no longer use
them. I use the aircraft repair method now of just a little Vulkem in
the hole before pulling the rivet.
Best of luck,
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 6:07 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Olympic rivets
>
> After all the posts about leaks I resolved to be doubly safe
> so I used the
> rivets with washers and a small amount of Vulcem. That was
> yesterday so
> today I went to clean off the small amount of excess vulcem
> only to find
> that the little black washers showed at the base of every
> rivet. In some
> cases the washers had actually squeezed out from underneath the rivet
> leaving a tiny little black loop. > Let me know if you have had
> better results with the little washers.
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 17:36:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (David Josephson)
Subject: Re: Olympic rivets, and wire
Brief comments on a couple of things in the last few
digests.
I tried some of the Olympic rivets with sealing washers
too with similar results. Andy at Inland also advised me
that especially in the intense sun here in the west, the
rubber washers would not provide the sort of lifetimes
we expect. Also as any rubber deteriorates it will
begin to leak if there is any movement in the riveted
part. I think the washer-equipped rivets are for use in
applications like attaching fiberglass panels to aluminum
framework, where a little flexibility and short term leak
resistance are needed. I used regular Olympic rivets and
Vulkem when replacing a window on my '71 AS and it has
remained tight.
On the matter of stranded vs solid wire, both sides of
this discussion have some correct points. The resistance
of the two types of wire is identical. The impedance of
solid wire at high frequencies is somewhat lower than that
of stranded wire (as noted by the original poster), but
for DC this is irrelevant. Per the electrical code (NEC
1996) the ampacities of solid and stranded wire of
equivalent gauge and insulation are identical. More
importantly, (for several very good reasons) single
wire low voltage conductors in recreational vehicles are
required to be stranded per NEC 551-10(b)(3). Solid
wire may be used for 120/240 volt circuits but only when
enclosed in conduit or sheathing (NM, Romex, etc.)
I can understand why Andy gets excited about liability in
this case; it's not pleasant when the brake circuits fail.
The original poster mentioned that these were "messenger"
circuits as if relays or other controllers were provided
in the trailer. This is not the case -- all of the 3 to 10
amps of brake magnet current comes through that wire in the
trailer connector.
--
Josephson Engineering / Santa Cruz CA / [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 21:23:27 -0400
From: Steve Hingtgen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rivets w/ or w/o washers
Dick,
Your experience is not uncommon. Although Airstream recommends both types of rivets,
I've noticed that some experienced restorers tend to shy away from the type with
rivets. I've heard two reasons for this. One reason is that after many years, people
s
Regardless of the type of rivet you use, make sure you use a #20 bit to drill the
holes, as recommended by the manufacturer, and do use the Vulkem in the hole or on the
rivet before inserting it. On my 1967 Caravel, I tend to use only the washerless vari
Steve
http://www.airstreamdreams.com
On Fri, 5 Jul 2002 17:03:04 -0700, VACList wrote:
>Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2002 20:06:32 -0500
>From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>�Subject: Olympic
>rivets
>
>I am replacing a number of exterior rivets and thought I would pass
>along my experience so that someone else might avoid the same
>mistake I made. �When I bought the rivets I noted they were
>available with or without little washers. �I bought some of each.
>The rivets with washers were recommended for higher on the coach
>where leaks might be more of a problem. �I then read Andy's advice
>to put a small amount of Vulcem on the shaft of each rivet as it is
>installed.
>
>After all the posts about leaks I resolved to be doubly safe so I
>used the rivets with washers and a small amount of Vulcem. �That was
>yesterday so today I went to clean off the small amount of excess
>vulcem only to find that the little black washers showed at the base
>of every rivet. �In some cases the washers had actually squeezed out
>from underneath the rivet leaving a tiny little black loop. �I don't
>know if this was a result of using the washers with vulcem or if the
>washers are designed to show but I felt it was not an acceptable
>look. �So today I drilled out yesterday's work and replaced it with
>plain rivets with a small dab of vulcem on the shaft.
>
>Let me know if you have had better results with the little washers.
>
>Dick '62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 19:19:05 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Twin bed question again....
I thought I would try to ask my twin bed setup question again. This time
with pictures.
The couch normally looks like this:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0119.JPG
When I try to set the bed the cushion is crooked like this:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0122.JPG
Because of these wood triangle brace located behind the seat:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0120.JPG
As you can see the top of the brace is even with the top of the bed cushion
or the bottom of the seat back when set as a couch.. So there is no way it
can lay flat:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0121.JPG
So, should I remove these braces so the beds lay flat. Or what?
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2002 22:34:05 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A/C While Towing
John:
Many thanks for your very knowledgeable response. I'm not exactly sure what
the check valve and reservoir would look like, but I'll poke around under
the hood tomorrow and see what I find. If I lack these two gadgets, and want
to get one, any suggestions as to where to find one? Do I need the
reservoir, or is the check valve enough? I wonder how to test for a leaky
actuator diaphram . . .
Meanwhile, I'll try auto supply stores and see if they have anything
generic. I'll report back, in case anyone else is having this problem/is
interested in this fix. Thanks again, John--much appreciate your help.
Dan Weeks
'75 Argosy 26
'86 Caprice Classic Wagon, 168k
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 17:03:04 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
> From: john dorsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Help--A/C while towing
>
> Dan,
> Fancy cars like caddys and lincons have a check valve and a vacuum
> reservoir to keep that from happening. I would think that an '86 caprice
> would be high-end enough have that setup also. You might check and see,
> as the check valve may be bad (one good backfire can kill one). If you
> don't have one you can add one, you have to install it in the vacuum
> line that goes ONLY to the a/c, and the line has to go through it (in
> one fitting and out the other) not just teed into the line.
>
> Another thing to look at is that the diaphragm in the actuator may have
> a hole in it. If it does a reservoir and check valve won't stop the
> problem just delay it shortly.
>
> An '86 probably does have a compressor cutout at full throttle. It can
> be disabled but will cut back on your available power.
>
> Dan Weeks wrote:
>>
>> I regularly use the A/C while towing in my 86 Caprice 305 4V, and have no
>> problem keeping coolant and trans oil temps cool. The car interior is cool,
>> too--except when manifold vacuum drops to near zero in headwinds or while
>> climbing hills, the vacuum-operated air doors in the HVAC system default to
>> defrost mode, blasting the hot windshield with cold air instead of the
>> passengers. I've noticed other vehicles do the same thing when running wide
>> open for any length of time. My brother the mechanic speculated that one
>> could install a check valve in the vacuum line to the air doors. Has anyone
>> ever done this? Know what parts to get, from where? Or is there some way to
>> just jury-rig the system to stay set on using the dash a/c vents until
>> summer is over?
>>
>> ALso, am I right that at full throttle, the compressor automatically is
>> clutched out for maximum power to the wheels? If I go from zero vaccuum at
>> full throttle and actually hit the kickdown switch, I don't even seem to get
>> cold air.
>>
>> Dan
>> 75 Argosy 26
>> 86 Chevy Caprice Classic Wagon, 168k
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 23:57:21 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Tim,
If this was my unit I'd do what I could to alter the couch setup so that
those brackets would support the back of the couch when laid flat for
use as a bed.
Is it possible to somehow hinge the brackets midway up vertically so you
can then fold them in half when you need to make the couch into a bed?
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Shephard
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:19 PM
Subject: [VAC] Twin bed question again....
I thought I would try to ask my twin bed setup question again. This
time
with pictures.
The couch normally looks like this:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0119.JPG
When I try to set the bed the cushion is crooked like this:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0122.JPG
Because of these wood triangle brace located behind the seat:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0120.JPG
As you can see the top of the brace is even with the top of the bed
cushion
or the bottom of the seat back when set as a couch.. So there is no way
it
can lay flat:
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0121.JPG
So, should I remove these braces so the beds lay flat. Or what?
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 21:29:41 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
What is the exact name of this Future floor wax, so I can find it in the
store. A bottle description would help as well.
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 2:49 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Has anyone tried this?
> I think future floor finish is acrylic based not wax. Not positive but
that
> may prevent the yellowing.
>
> Terry O'Neill
> Calgary
> 66 Trade-Wind Double
> WBCCI 4786
> VAC
> http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:35 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Has anyone tried this?
>
>
> > Gina. I applied the "future floor wax" to the 1973 31 foot trailer that
> the
> > factory provided to me when I traveled the country for Caravanner
> Insurance.
> > I happened to see that trailer a short time ago, and the color of the
wax
> was
> > absolutely clear, the same as I applied it, almost 30 years ago.
> >
> > Not saying it won't discolor, but if it lasts 30 years without changing
> > color, that's not too shabby.
> >
> > Andy
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2002 22:40:34 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: My new cabinet doors
Well, I said I would post some pictures when I finished making the cabinet
doors to replace my missing tambour doors in my '71 Safari.
I still have all the little doors to do under the couches but this will give
you an idea.
I am happy with the way it turned out.
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/Cabinet%20Work.htm
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 01:12:17 -0600
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried this?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> What is the exact name of this Future floor wax, so I can find it in the
> store. A bottle description would help as well.
Should be in any supermarket as Future Acrylic Floor finish
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 08:54:53 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
I might just take them out. But I am sure they are original. So I don't
want to remove them if I can find out their purpose and how to get the beds
flat...
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 8:57 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Twin bed question again....
> Tim,
>
> If this was my unit I'd do what I could to alter the couch setup so that
> those brackets would support the back of the couch when laid flat for
> use as a bed.
>
> Is it possible to somehow hinge the brackets midway up vertically so you
> can then fold them in half when you need to make the couch into a bed?
>
> Tom
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Tim Shephard
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Sent: Friday, July 05, 2002 10:19 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Twin bed question again....
>
>
> I thought I would try to ask my twin bed setup question again. This
> time
> with pictures.
>
> The couch normally looks like this:
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0119.JPG
>
> When I try to set the bed the cushion is crooked like this:
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0122.JPG
>
> Because of these wood triangle brace located behind the seat:
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0120.JPG
>
> As you can see the top of the brace is even with the top of the bed
> cushion
> or the bottom of the seat back when set as a couch.. So there is no way
> it
> can lay flat:
>
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0121.JPG
>
> So, should I remove these braces so the beds lay flat. Or what?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Tim
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 12:05:41 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Tim. Those brackets were not installed by Airstream. Remove them. What is
missing though is another sheet of thin plywood underneath the mattress, that
supports the mattress and keeps it from getting into the storage area, when
someone sleeps on that side.
Originally, there was a small "bolster" that was located against the wall,
and supported the bottom of the top cushion, when used as a seat. It also
kept the bottom cushion from being pushed against the wall. If you wish, it
was a spacer. Additionally, the bolster was used against the wall, with the
remainder of the cushion resting against it and the front edge of the "side
pull out."
That restricted most side movement of the main cushions.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 16:05:07 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Andy wrote:
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 12:05
Subject: [VAC] Re: Twin bed question again....
> Tim. Those brackets were not installed by Airstream. Remove them. What is
> missing though is another sheet of thin plywood underneath the mattress,
that
> supports the mattress and keeps it from getting into the storage area,
when
> someone sleeps on that side.
On my three Airstreams there was plywood under the seat cushion part of the
gaucho but not under the backrest part of the gaucho. For the backrest, the
thin plywood was inside the backrest cover rather than attached to the pull
out frame. My gauchos were under the front window rather than against the
wall as in a Safari. Maybe that's the difference.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2002 13:47:23 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Twin bed question again....
Jim, mine seem to be the way you describe.
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 1:05 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Twin bed question again....
> Andy wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2002 12:05
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Twin bed question again....
>
>
> > Tim. Those brackets were not installed by Airstream. Remove them. What
is
> > missing though is another sheet of thin plywood underneath the mattress,
> that
> > supports the mattress and keeps it from getting into the storage area,
> when
> > someone sleeps on that side.
>
> On my three Airstreams there was plywood under the seat cushion part of
the
> gaucho but not under the backrest part of the gaucho. For the backrest,
the
> thin plywood was inside the backrest cover rather than attached to the
pull
> out frame. My gauchos were under the front window rather than against the
> wall as in a Safari. Maybe that's the difference.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #356
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