Marc: Thanks for this very detailed discussion. Yes, I was exploring two non-stock adjusters, including the Berg swivel-foot ones. And yes, I did resort to grinding the underside of the rocker to allow the adjuster centerline to be parallel to the valve stem centerline with the valve at half stroke. With the 0.140 shims that I need to achieve this parallelism with the Berg adjusters, I have no threads showing above the nut on the stand studs. Funny, I was just looking at the Berg site when your message arrived. I'll first take your suggestion and try backing the stock studs out a thread or two. After damaging a couple of studs on my exhaust flanges I'm a little skittish about backing these things out. Again, thank you for your interest. jack
>My god, man. Are you using longer-than-stock valves or >are the seats just sunk that far? If you're using >swivelfoot adjusters, shimming the stands out may >allow adjustment range but doesn't correct the >geometry - you need to grind the underside of the >rocker to make room for the foot. >The long 40HP studs are indeed specific to the early >1200 heads (and far too long for your purposes, they >screw into the head about halfway down) but the stock >later studs have ample thread length at the 10mm end >to allow you to merely back them out of the heads a >little bit to gain purchase on the rocker nuts. 2 >turns out of the head will gain 3mm (that's 2.4 >threads at the nut). Use 15mm-wrench-size 8x1.25 nuts >with no washers. >I've made my own longer ones from 10mm head studs, >threaded to 9mm (connecting rod nut) at one end - the >shafts & stands needed to be opened up a little to >accomodate them. >Berg sells HD rocker studs in stock length and +.200": >http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_199 > >--- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Thanks Marc. >> I'm struggling with the valve train geometry on a >> 1600 and I'm >> running out of thread on my rocker studs, thanks to >> the stand shims >> that I have to use. From you message, it sounds as >> though these parts >> are specific to the older engines. >> Are you aware of any long replacement studs for a >> 1600? >> jack >> >> >You unscrew the stock long rocker studs and fit >> steel >> >inserts into the holes in the rocker-box floor into >> >which you thread bolts to mount the rocker >> assemblies. >> >There are basically two styles of insert, one >> that's >> >threaded on the outside like in the picture linked >> >below and one that's more of a knurled cone on the >> >outside that's driven in from below/pulled into >> place. >> >Personally I prefer the latter if you can find >> them. >> > >> >>http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=416932 >> > >> > >> >--- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> > >> >> What is this conversion kit that you mention? >> >> jhd >> >> >> > >> >>> If you do >> >> >need to use the long-rocker-stud heads, install >> >> >conversion kits and they'll be OK too (with the >> >> >conversion kits you can adjust the lash to >> ~.006", >> >> >same as the later heads). > > > > >____________________________________________________________________________________ >Be a better friend, newshound, and >know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. >http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > >_______________________________________________ >vintagvw site list >[email protected] >http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
