Jack, The stud removal technique that Marc is referring to, is also known as 'double-nutting'. You hand-thread 2 nuts, then using 2 wrenches, tighten them against each other very well. The clamping action binds the stud threads so well, that you now can turn the stud in or out as needed with a wrench. Never use vice grips. Those offset cam-action stud-removers that are sold by Sears, can really wreck threads. Also, the roller-lock style Stahlwille tools can also put 'dings' on the threads, if the stud is really tight. If that's the case on yours, you'll need to really jam the 2 nuts quite tightly to prevent slippage. Heat and liberal use of a good penetrant oil can help in really tough stuations, like severely-corroded parts. Corroded steel exhaust studs in aluminum heads is a perfect example of this situation. Rocker studs are (normally) sealed inside the rocker cover and always kept wet with oil, so they shouldn't give such a fight as you had with your exposed exhaust studs.
Mike B. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Dinan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 10:00 PM Subject: Re: [vintagvw] longer rocker studs (was: 40 horse expert 1961-1965 beetles) > Marc: Thanks for this very detailed discussion. > Yes, I was exploring two non-stock adjusters, including the Berg > swivel-foot ones. And yes, I did resort to grinding the underside of > the rocker to allow the adjuster centerline to be parallel to the > valve stem centerline with the valve at half stroke. With the 0.140 > shims that I need to achieve this parallelism with the Berg > adjusters, I have no threads showing above the nut on the stand studs. > Funny, I was just looking at the Berg site when your message arrived. > I'll first take your suggestion and try backing the stock studs out a > thread or two. After damaging a couple of studs on my exhaust flanges > I'm a little skittish about backing these things out. > Again, thank you for your interest. > jack > >>My god, man. Are you using longer-than-stock valves or >>are the seats just sunk that far? If you're using >>swivelfoot adjusters, shimming the stands out may >>allow adjustment range but doesn't correct the >>geometry - you need to grind the underside of the >>rocker to make room for the foot. >>The long 40HP studs are indeed specific to the early >>1200 heads (and far too long for your purposes, they >>screw into the head about halfway down) but the stock >>later studs have ample thread length at the 10mm end >>to allow you to merely back them out of the heads a >>little bit to gain purchase on the rocker nuts. 2 >>turns out of the head will gain 3mm (that's 2.4 >>threads at the nut). Use 15mm-wrench-size 8x1.25 nuts >>with no washers. >>I've made my own longer ones from 10mm head studs, >>threaded to 9mm (connecting rod nut) at one end - the >>shafts & stands needed to be opened up a little to >>accomodate them. >>Berg sells HD rocker studs in stock length and +.200": >>http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=6_199 >> >>--- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>> Thanks Marc. >>> I'm struggling with the valve train geometry on a >>> 1600 and I'm >>> running out of thread on my rocker studs, thanks to >>> the stand shims >>> that I have to use. From you message, it sounds as >>> though these parts >>> are specific to the older engines. >>> Are you aware of any long replacement studs for a >>> 1600? >>> jack >>> >>> >You unscrew the stock long rocker studs and fit >>> steel >>> >inserts into the holes in the rocker-box floor into >>> >which you thread bolts to mount the rocker >>> assemblies. >>> >There are basically two styles of insert, one >>> that's >>> >threaded on the outside like in the picture linked >>> >below and one that's more of a knurled cone on the >>> >outside that's driven in from below/pulled into >>> place. >>> >Personally I prefer the latter if you can find >>> them. >>> > >>> >>>http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=416932 >>> > >>> > >>> >--- Jack Dinan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>> > >>> >> What is this conversion kit that you mention? >>> >> jhd >>> >> >>> > >>> >>> If you do >>> >> >need to use the long-rocker-stud heads, install >>> >> >conversion kits and they'll be OK too (with the >>> >> >conversion kits you can adjust the lash to >>> ~.006", >>> >> >same as the later heads). >> >> >> >> >>____________________________________________________________________________________ >>Be a better friend, newshound, and >>know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. >>http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ >> >>_______________________________________________ >>vintagvw site list >>vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu >>http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw > > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw > _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
