Thanks Dave, I don't have an adjustable push rod yet but will soon. On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 10:23 AM, Dave C. Bolen <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dean, > > So here is how I remember it. I have used this method since 1972. > > Best of all done with the engine out so you can actually see the geometry > well. > > > First of all this method takes in to account everything that you may have > changed on your engine including different cam, lifters, deck heights, > copper head gaskets, valve stem caps and stroked or not. > > Deck height must already be set properly and matched on both sides of the > engine. > > First of all lay a straight bar or ruler across the valve stems. If they > are not all the same, them send them back to be fixed. > > Do not assume that just because one side of the engine gets one > measurement that the other side will be exactly the same...don't ask how I > know this.<grin> > > Install your rocker arms without shims under them. Pick a valve(usually > #2 exhaust for me. > > Adjust the valve adjustment screws so that you are in about the middle of > it's travel or less(look at some old factory rocker arms if you need to so > you can get an idea of where the factory started. > > Rotate the engine until you have half lift from the cam on #2 exhaust(oh, > BTW, if you have a cam with different lift on exhaust and intake then you > get to do a lot more measuring). > > Insert your adjustable push rod and start adjusting it until the rocker > arm is pushing the valve down half way. Unless you have a long travel dial > gauge this is going to be mostly by eyeball. > > Rotate the egine now so that valve is now fully pushing down the valve > stem at max lift for that valve. > > Make sure that the valve spring is not binding and has the proper > clearance between the valve spring coils(60 thousandths or better?) > > If the clearance looks good, then rotate the engine though the entire lift > sequence for that valve several times and decide whether it looks right. > > Oh, and you might as well add a piec of clay to the top of the lifter > adjusting screw andthen install you rocker cover and then rotate thru the > sequence again....so you know the adjusting screws are not going to hit the > inside of your rocker cover. > > > If that looks good, then you have your correct pushrod length. Now do the > same thing with your locked adjustable pushrod on the #4 exhaust checking > for too much clearance at no lift or too much valve spring binding at full > cam lift. If it is binding or too loose, then you will have two sets of > pushrod lengths to make. > > Be aware that you are using the same type of adjustable pushrod similar to > what you will actually install in the engine. All pushrod ends are not > made the same. > > > Cheers, dave > > > > > > On Tue, 26 May 2015, Dean Johnson wrote: > > >> I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of them >> 'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't have any >> idea what centerlines they're talking about and what >> does it mean for two lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful. >> >> Still looking for instructions with visuals. >> >> On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, "Dave C. Bolen" <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> Guys, >> >> Your good old copy of "How to hot rod vw's" has excellent >> instructions on this. >> >> Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods they >> really should be close. Oh, stroked engine? >> >> Cheers, dave >> >> On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote: >> >> When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock >> rod. Basically cut one in half, trim down >> then cut some threads >> and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts. >> >> Install the head torqued to spec. Do not install the push >> rods or push rod tubes. >> >> Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some >> spacers to account for the swivel feet and >> lash caps (these are a >> good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the swivel >> feet), check the geometry, there should >> be no binding when >> cycling the engine. If there is binding make the push rod >> shorter. >> >> Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the >> other side of the engine. >> >> If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, >> now you need to make eight solid push rods. >> I purchased mine from >> gene berg back in the day. Chrome moly, cut them to length >> and pushed in the ends. >> >> It's been a while but I believe those are the steps. >> >> >> >> >> >> On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson < >> [email protected]> wrote: >> >> I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the >> original engine builder, Strictly Foreign, >> didn't set up the >> push rod length at all and that I need to do this. That >> makes sense as they are way off. So who >> has a good >> description of measuring proper pushrod length? >> BTW. RISMachine did the head work. >> >> On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, "Dean Johnson" < >> [email protected]> wrote: >> >> No, stock rockers. >> >> On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, "Daniel Moy" < >> [email protected]> wrote: >> Hi Dean, >> >> Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the push >> rods? >> >> Dan >> >> >> >> >> >> On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson < >> [email protected]> wrote: >> >> I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my 1915 >> cc engine. I have the heads on, put in the >> push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to check >> geometry.I put the shims that had been >> installed under the shafts originally and there is not >> nearly enough room for the swivel foot >> adjusters. Even screwed all the way out, they nearly >> touch the stems. If I use a thicker shim I am >> afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker arm >> nuts. ( can I back the studs out?) will >> standard adjusters give me more adjustment? Where is >> the best graphical description of adjusting >> the geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if there >> is another way to do it, that'd be great. >> Dean >> '71 Super Beetle >> http://deangj.tumblr.com >> >> >> >> -- >> Dean G. Johnson, PhD >> Postdoctoral Fellow >> Biomedical Engineering >> McGrath Lab >> University of Rochester >> Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316 >> Box 270168 >> Rochester, NY 14627 >> [email protected] >> Office: 585-273-2156 >> Mobile: 315-576-5928 >> >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >> Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled >> Volkswagen Discussion List" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from >> it, send an email to >> [email protected]. >> To post to this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >> Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled >> Volkswagen >> Discussion List" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from >> it, send an email to >> [email protected]. >> To post to this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >> Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled >> Volkswagen Discussion >> List" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from >> it, send an email to >> [email protected]. >> To post to this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >> Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled >> Volkswagen Discussion List" >> group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from >> it, send an email to >> [email protected]. >> To post to this group, send email to >> [email protected]. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" >> group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- Dean G. Johnson, PhD Postdoctoral Fellow Biomedical Engineering McGrath Lab University of Rochester Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316 Box 270168 Rochester, NY 14627 [email protected] Office: 585-273-2156 Mobile: 315-576-5928 -- Visit the VintagVW archives at http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
