No Dan, it's not an 009, I knew about them stumbling so I got a single vacuum distributor From John air cooled something or other, way back.I would tow it to Nassau county in a heartbeat If I had a way to do it.No of my cars have a hitch
-----Original Message----- From: Dan Moy <[email protected]> To: vintagvw <[email protected]> Sent: Wed, May 27, 2015 2:18 pm Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Rocker arm geometry What a story Rudy. Let me check with my neighbor, if you are willing to have the car towed to Nassau county. Sounds like you need a full tune up and carburetor re-jetting, also need to look at the distributor hopefully it is not an 009... On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 1:48 PM, 'Rudolph Dehoogh' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]> wrote: Dan, You want to know what I need? Well let me tell you a story Fifteen years ago I bought a body off restored 1963 beetle. Never ran right, only put about 1000 miles on her. Rebuild, I believe Mofoco,1600 cc twin port engine. Stumbled and overheated, I bought a new Bopar? carb. Stumbling and overheating continued. Got married (again) moved to a new house 30 miles down the road and put VW in carport to be worked on later. Had to stop 1 time due to overheating. Later became 2 years ago, bought stuff to make it a stand off lid and tried to tune the engine. Got it to run but rough, tried time to it and decided to check TDC on Cyl. 1, very carefully with the old pencil trick. I very carefully, broke the pencil off. Anyway removed engine took head off and removed stub. Bolted her up and started again. Got her running, working in the back using remote start. Start, stalled over and over again. etc, trying to adjust carb. Here comes the sad but very funny part. I'm almost 70 years old now and no longer the sharpest knife in the drawer. A thought hit me, "I wander if the fuel pump is working properly?" Now I'm trying to white wash, remember that she was a tough start during this attempt to tune carb? I pulled the fuel line to the carb. off and decided to turn the motor a couple of turns to see how the fuel pump functioned. Can you see where I'm going with this? The engine immediately fired and there I was standing leaned over the engine with a fuel spewing hose in my hand above a HOT engine. If I would have had half a brain and not panicked I would have pulled the high tension wire of the coil but I didn't, I folded the hose instead to stop the flow. That's all good and dandy but now I'm standing right above a still running engine with gas having been spewed all over it and can't leave, have to hold the hose closed don't you know? My partly functioning brain told me "Rudy, she's gonna catch on fire' and she did. Still running, my hand had caught on fire and my belly. Luckily all I wore was a pair of shorts if I had worn a t-shirt I may not have been able to tell the story. I ran off a bit, people on fire tend to do this, put out my belly and found a rag to extinguish me hand. Remembered that there was an extinguisher and the car and got it, at this time engine stopped running starved from fuel but engine compartment was burning brightly. Pulled the pin on sprayed myself in the face, turned the exst, around and it didn't work, 15 years is a little old for an ext. Ran out back and got the water hose and in a manly manner put out the blaze. Now this is all very embarrassing but the story gets worse. Like I said all I wore were shorts, no underpants. As I'm running around, on fire, my shorts fell down to my ankles and there I am, on fire, naked as the day I was born. Damage was minimal considering. Left hand one huge blister and a couple of small once on guts. Paint burned about 10 slats of the air intake and all wiring and rubber parts. You asked what I needed and that's my story. My back is shot can't work on cars anymore, hmm, on hind sight that maybe safer. This story occurred 2 years ago this Sept.I have pics. Last year replaced the wires, fuel lines still need to be done, engine and carbs need to be tuned, deck lid needs to be fitted. Also need a new line from break fluid reservoir to M. cylinder and what ever else we can find. I'm not a cheap skate and not looking for free help but would prefer a capable private person over a professional with hourly rates as they are. Come one come all. I'm far better cook than mechanic. Rudy LI NY Rudy, I'm in Nassau County (New Hyde Park) and was just speaking with Sonny at S.M. Motor Sports. I have been bringing my Porsche 914 to him for years. He has a lot of experience with Porsche's and VW's, I would recommend him. What is it that you need done? Dan S.M. Motor Sports, Inc. - Bosch Car Service Address: 140 Lakeville Rd, New Hyde Park, NY 11040 Phone: (516) 775-8655 On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 11:46 AM, 'Rudolph Dehoogh' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <[email protected]> wrote: <<<Dean, do live any where near NYC? I would be happy to help>>> Daniel, I live in Shirley Long Island. I'm in need of a bug mechanic. Know anybody? Rudy LI NY On May 26, 2015, at 9:36 PM, Dean Johnson < [email protected]> wrote: I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of them 'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't have any idea what centerlines they're talking about and what does it mean for two lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful. Still looking for instructions with visuals. On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, "Dave C. Bolen" < [email protected]> wrote: Guys, Your good old copy of "How to hot rod vw's" has excellent instructions on this. Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods they really should be close. Oh, stroked engine? Cheers, dave On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote: When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock rod. Basically cut one in half, trim down then cut some threads and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts. Install the head torqued to spec. Do not install the push rods or push rod tubes. Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some spacers to account for the swivel feet and lash caps (these are a good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the swivel feet), check the geometry, there should be no binding when cycling the engine. If there is binding make the push rod shorter. Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the other side of the engine. If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, now you need to make eight solid push rods. I purchased mine from gene berg back in the day. Chrome moly, cut them to length and pushed in the ends. It's been a while but I believe those are the steps. On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson < [email protected]> wrote: I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the original engine builder, Strictly Foreign, didn't set up the push rod length at all and that I need to do this. That makes sense as they are way off. So who has a good description of measuring proper pushrod length? BTW. RISMachine did the head work. On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, "Dean Johnson" < [email protected]> wrote: No, stock rockers. On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, "Daniel Moy" < [email protected]> wrote: Hi Dean, Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the push rods? Dan On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson < [email protected]> wrote: I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my 1915 cc engine. I have the heads on, put in the push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to check geometry.I put the shims that had been installed under the shafts originally and there is not nearly enough room for the swivel foot adjusters. Even screwed all the way out, they nearly touch the stems. If I use a thicker shim I am afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker arm nuts. ( can I back the studs out?) will standard adjusters give me more adjustment? Where is the best graphical description of adjusting the geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if there is another way to do it, that'd be great. Dean '71 Super Beetle http://deangj.tumblr.com -- Dean G. Johnson, PhD Postdoctoral Fellow Biomedical Engineering McGrath Lab University of Rochester Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316 Box 270168 Rochester, NY 14627 [email protected] Office: 585-273-2156 Mobile: 315-576-5928 -- Visit the VintagVW archives at http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. 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