Thanks Dave, I don't have an adjustable push rod yet but will soon.
On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 10:23 AM, Dave C. Bolen <dbo...@shockwaverider.com>
wrote:
Dean,
So here is how I remember it. I have used this method since 1972.
Best of all done with the engine out so you can actually see the geometry
well.
First of all this method takes in to account everything that you may have
changed on your engine including different
cam, lifters, deck heights, copper head gaskets, valve stem caps and
stroked or not.
Deck height must already be set properly and matched on both sides of the
engine.
First of all lay a straight bar or ruler across the valve stems. If they
are not all the same, them send them back
to be fixed.
Do not assume that just because one side of the engine gets one
measurement that the other side will be exactly the
same...don't ask how I know this.<grin>
Install your rocker arms without shims under them. Pick a valve(usually
#2 exhaust for me.
Adjust the valve adjustment screws so that you are in about the middle of
it's travel or less(look at some old
factory rocker arms if you need to so you can get an idea of where the
factory started.
Rotate the engine until you have half lift from the cam on #2 exhaust(oh,
BTW, if you have a cam with different lift
on exhaust and intake then you get to do a lot more measuring).
Insert your adjustable push rod and start adjusting it until the rocker
arm is pushing the valve down half way.
Unless you have a long travel dial gauge this is going to be mostly by
eyeball.
Rotate the egine now so that valve is now fully pushing down the valve
stem at max lift for that valve.
Make sure that the valve spring is not binding and has the proper
clearance between the valve spring coils(60
thousandths or better?)
If the clearance looks good, then rotate the engine though the entire
lift sequence for that valve several times and
decide whether it looks right.
Oh, and you might as well add a piec of clay to the top of the lifter
adjusting screw andthen install you rocker
cover and then rotate thru the sequence again....so you know the
adjusting screws are not going to hit the inside of
your rocker cover.
If that looks good, then you have your correct pushrod length. Now do
the same thing with your locked adjustable
pushrod on the #4 exhaust checking for too much clearance at no lift or
too much valve spring binding at full cam
lift. If it is binding or too loose, then you will have two sets of
pushrod lengths to make.
Be aware that you are using the same type of adjustable pushrod similar
to what you will actually install in the
engine. All pushrod ends are not made the same.
Cheers, dave
On Tue, 26 May 2015, Dean Johnson wrote:
I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of
them
'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't
have any idea what centerlines they're
talking about and what
does it mean for two lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful.
Still looking for instructions with visuals.
On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, "Dave C. Bolen"
<dbo...@shockwaverider.com> wrote:
Guys,
Your good old copy of "How to hot rod vw's" has excellent
instructions on this.
Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods
they really should be close. Oh,
stroked engine?
Cheers, dave
On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote:
When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a
stock rod. Basically cut one in
half, trim down
then cut some threads
and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts.
Install the head torqued to spec. Do not install the
push rods or push rod tubes.
Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with
some spacers to account for the
swivel feet and
lash caps (these are a
good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the
swivel feet), check the geometry,
there should
be no binding when
cycling the engine. If there is binding make the push
rod shorter.
Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly
the other side of the engine.
If all is well then you now have a properly sized push
rod, now you need to make eight solid
push rods.
I purchased mine from
gene berg back in the day. Chrome moly, cut them to
length and pushed in the ends.
It's been a while but I believe those are the steps.
On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson
<dean.john...@rochester.edu> wrote:
I re-read the info from the machine shop. He
thinks the original engine builder,
Strictly Foreign,
didn't set up the
push rod length at all and that I need to do
this. That makes sense as they are way
off. So who
has a good
description of measuring proper pushrod length?
BTW. RISMachine did the head work.
On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, "Dean Johnson"
<dean.john...@rochester.edu> wrote:
No, stock rockers.
On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, "Daniel Moy"
<sole...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Dean,
Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the
push rods?
Dan
On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson
<dean.john...@rochester.edu> wrote:
I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my
1915 cc engine. I have the heads on,
put in the
push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to
check geometry.I put the shims
that had been
installed under the shafts originally and there
is not nearly enough room for the
swivel foot
adjusters. Even screwed all the way out, they
nearly touch the stems. If I use a
thicker shim I am
afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker
arm nuts. ( can I back the studs
out?) will
standard adjusters give me more adjustment? Where
is the best graphical description of
adjusting
the geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if
there is another way to do it,
that'd be great.
Dean
'71 Super Beetle
http://deangj.tumblr.com
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dean.john...@rochester.edu
Office: 585-273-2156
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