What a story Rudy. Let me check with my neighbor, if you are willing to have the car towed to Nassau county.
Sounds like you need a full tune up and carburetor re-jetting, also need to look at the distributor hopefully it is not an 009... On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 1:48 PM, 'Rudolph Dehoogh' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote: > Dan, > > You want to know what I need? Well let me tell you a story > > Fifteen years ago I bought a body off restored 1963 beetle. Never ran > right, only put about 1000 miles on her. > Rebuild, I believe Mofoco,1600 cc twin port engine. > Stumbled and overheated, I bought a new Bopar? carb. > > Stumbling and overheating continued. > > Got married (again) moved to a new house 30 miles down the road and put > VW in carport to be worked on later. Had to stop 1 time due to overheating. > > Later became 2 years, bought stuff to make it a stand off lid and tried > to tune the engine. Got it to run but rough, tried time to it and decided > to check TDC on Cyl. 1, very carefully with the old pencil trick. I very > carefully, broke the pencil off. Anyway removed engine took head off and > removed stub. Bolted her up and started again. Got her running, working in > the back using remote start. > Start, stalled over and over again. etc, trying to adjust carb. > > Here comes the sad but very funny part. I'm almost 70 years old now and > no longer the sharpest knife in the drawer. A thought hit me, "I wander if > the fuel pump is working properly?" Now I'm trying to white wash, remember > that she was a tough start during this attempt to tune carb? I pulled the > fuel line to the carb. off and decided to turn the motor a couple of turns > to see how the fuel pump functioned. Can you see where I'm going with this? > The engine immediately fired and there I was standing leaned over the > engine with a fuel spewing hose in my hand above a HOT engine. If I would > have had half a brain and not panicked I would have pulled the high tension > wire of the coil but I didn't, I folded the hose instead to stop the flow. > That's all good and dandy but now I'm standing right above a still running > engine with gas having been spewed all over it and can't leave, have to > hold the hose closed don't you know? My partly functioning brain told me > "Rudy, she's gonna catch on fire' and she did. > Still running, my hand had caught on fire and my belly. Luckily all I wore > was a pair of shorts if I had worn a t-shirt I may not have been able to > tell the story. > I ran off a bit, people on fire tend to do this, put out my belly and > found a rag to extinguish me hand. > Remembered that there was an extinguisher and the car and got it, at this > time engine stopped running starved from fuel but engine compartment was > burning brightly. > Pulled the pin on sprayed myself in the face, turned the exst, around and > it didn't work, 15 years is a little old for an ext. > Ran out back and got the water hose and in a manly manner put out the > blaze. > > Now this is all very embarrassing but the story gets worse. Like I said > all I wore were shorts, no underpants. As I'm running around, on fire, my > shorts fell down to my ankles and there I am, on fire, naked as the day I > was born. > > Damage was minimal considering. > Left hand one huge blister and a couple of small once on guts. > Paint burned about 10 slats of the air intake and all wiring and rubber > parts. > > You asked what I needed and that's my story. My back is shot can't work > on cars anymore, hmm, on hind sight that maybe safer. > > This story occurred 2 years ago this Sept.I have pics. > Last year replaced the wires, fuel lines still need to be done, engine and > carbs need to be tuned, deck lid needs to be fitted. > Also need a new line from break fluid reservoir to M. cylinder and what > ever else we can find. > > I'm not a cheap skate and not looking for free help but would prefer a > capable private person over a professional with hourly rates as they are. > Come one come all. > > I'm far better cook than mechanic. > > Rudy LI NY > > > > > > > Rudy, > > I'm in Nassau County (New Hyde Park) and was just speaking with Sonny at > S.M. Motor Sports. I have been bringing my Porsche 914 to him for years. > He has a lot of experience with Porsche's and VW's, I would recommend him. > > What is it that you need done? > > Dan > > > > 1. S.M. Motor Sports, Inc. - Bosch Car Service > Address: 140 Lakeville Rd, New Hyde Park, NY 11040 > 2. Phone: (516) 775-8655 > > > On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 11:46 AM, 'Rudolph Dehoogh' via VintagVW - Air > Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List <vintagvw@googlegroups.com> wrote: > >> >> >> >> >> <<<Dean, do live any where near NYC? I would be happy to help>>> >> >> Daniel, >> >> I live in Shirley Long Island. I'm in need of a bug mechanic. >> Know anybody? >> >> Rudy LI NY >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On May 26, 2015, at 9:36 PM, Dean Johnson < dean.john...@rochester.edu> >> wrote: >> >> I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of them >> 'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't have any >> idea what centerlines they're talking about and what does it mean for two >> lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful. >> Still looking for instructions with visuals. >> On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, "Dave C. Bolen" < dbo...@shockwaverider.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Guys, >>> >>> Your good old copy of "How to hot rod vw's" has excellent instructions >>> on this. >>> >>> Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods they really >>> should be close. Oh, stroked engine? >>> >>> Cheers, dave >>> >>> On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote: >>> >>> When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock rod. >>>> Basically cut one in half, trim down then cut some threads >>>> and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts. >>>> >>>> Install the head torqued to spec. Do not install the push rods or push >>>> rod tubes. >>>> >>>> Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some spacers to >>>> account for the swivel feet and lash caps (these are a >>>> good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the swivel feet), >>>> check the geometry, there should be no binding when >>>> cycling the engine. If there is binding make the push rod shorter. >>>> >>>> Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the other side >>>> of the engine. >>>> >>>> If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, now you >>>> need to make eight solid push rods. I purchased mine from >>>> gene berg back in the day. Chrome moly, cut them to length and pushed >>>> in the ends. >>>> >>>> It's been a while but I believe those are the steps. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson < dean.john...@rochester.edu> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the original >>>> engine builder, Strictly Foreign, didn't set up the >>>> push rod length at all and that I need to do this. That makes >>>> sense as they are way off. So who has a good >>>> description of measuring proper pushrod length? >>>> BTW. RISMachine did the head work. >>>> >>>> On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, "Dean Johnson" < >>>> dean.john...@rochester.edu> wrote: >>>> >>>> No, stock rockers. >>>> >>>> On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, "Daniel Moy" < sole...@gmail.com> >>>> wrote: >>>> Hi Dean, >>>> >>>> Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the push rods? >>>> >>>> Dan >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson < dean.john...@rochester.edu> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>> I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my 1915 cc engine. >>>> I have the heads on, put in the >>>> push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to check geometry.I >>>> put the shims that had been >>>> installed under the shafts originally and there is not nearly >>>> enough room for the swivel foot >>>> adjusters. Even screwed all the way out, they nearly touch the >>>> stems. If I use a thicker shim I am >>>> afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker arm nuts. ( can >>>> I back the studs out?) will >>>> standard adjusters give me more adjustment? Where is the best >>>> graphical description of adjusting >>>> the geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if there is >>>> another way to do it, that'd be great. >>>> Dean >>>> '71 Super Beetle >>>> http://deangj.tumblr.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Dean G. Johnson, PhD >>>> Postdoctoral Fellow >>>> Biomedical Engineering >>>> McGrath Lab >>>> University of Rochester >>>> Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316 >>>> Box 270168 >>>> Rochester, NY 14627 >>>> dean.john...@rochester.edu >>>> Office: 585-273-2156 >>>> Mobile: 315-576-5928 >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Visit the VintagVW archives at >>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com >>>> --- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled >>>> Volkswagen Discussion List" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to >>>> vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>>> To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. >>>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Visit the VintagVW archives at >>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com >>>> --- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen >>>> Discussion List" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to >>>> vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>>> To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. >>>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Visit the VintagVW archives at >>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com >>>> --- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "VintagVW - 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