The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 279 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  e39 and KW Coilovers for Sale
  e34 Euro headlight help
  ANOTHER MOVIE TO SEE!
  Re: [Try Astronomy] ANOTHER MOVIE TO SEE!
  Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames
  Re: Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames
  Re: Earnhardt
  E30 Tranny data
  Re: E30 Tranny data
  <E34> '95 540ia transmission cost?
  Re: <E34> '95 540ia transmission cost?
  E36 Control Arms
  Re: Spray on Wax
  Re: Spray on Wax
  Rust repair (Toronto)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 07:58:39 -0700
From: "Kelvin Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: e39 and KW Coilovers for Sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Car for Sale - 2000 BMW 528i,  Price - $31k

Nearly all options, 52k mi, no dings or scratches, immaculate condition
Selling it to go to grad school in the east.
- Anthracite Gray
- 5 Speed Manual Transmission
- Sport/Premium Package
- Xenon Headlights
- Fold down rear seats w/ ski hole
- Sunroof
- Lumbar support

more info at
http://classy5er.freewebspace.com/e39_sale.htm



KW Variant 2 Coilovers, Retail - $2225, Price - $1100
- Some of the nicest true coilovers you can get for an e39.  See more info
at:

http://classy5er.freewebspace.com/sale.htm

- The fronts were on the car 1 year.  The rears were never installed.

Manufacturer info at:
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/coilovers.htm


All prices are negotiable.
- Kelvin Liu



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 11:01:00 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: e34 Euro headlight help
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am in the process of converting my US spec e34 lights to the euro lights. I have the 
lights all set with caps, bulbs, etc, but now Im trying to configure the wiring. I 
have the caps (yellow, white and grey) for the electrical connection for from the body 
but need the inserts to make the actual electrical connection and want to be able to 
switch over to the US for state inspection time. 

Ive looked at using weatherpack connectors as an intermediate connection. Ive looked 
at the ETK for some insight (sorry for the pun) but I cannot determine where (or what) 
it is. I want to keep this as stock looking as possible.
Thanks,
Steve 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 10:33:15 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: ANOTHER MOVIE TO SEE!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

OK, the response was so great on the last video I offered that I 
decided to buy extra server space and crunch down a 6gig,  27 minute 
movie to 154 Mb and upload it for you to see. I WOULD APPRECIATE 
FEEDBACK, but remember, the SEVERE crunching of the video reeks havoc 
on the resolution.

This is Our Chapter's 2003 driving school.

It will take some time to load and if you don't have broadband, don't  
bother to try. I would suggest that you go to the site, let it load for 
5-10 minutes and then come back to watch it uninterrupted... depending 
upon your connection speed... You'll figure it out.

And if you want a copy in full resolution, stereo DVD... contact me and 
we can talk.

  http://homepage.mac.com/jmorganix/Menu18.html

(go to address and click on the "Elkhart Lake OFast link", or where 
ever else you want to go)

Jenny Morgan
Milwaukee, WIsconsin

Home of Road America, North America's longest road circuit (4 miles, 14 
turns and "the Kink")


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 10:42:54 -0500
From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Try Astronomy] ANOTHER MOVIE TO SEE!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sorry, I hit the wrong button... wrong group addressed.

didn't mean to waste bandwidth.

Jenny Morgan

On Jul 20, 2004, at 10:33 AM, Jenny Morgan wrote:

> OK,


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 01:23:44 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My brother called me Sunday to ask me if I saw Dale's car burst into 
flames. I hadn't. He then told me why it may have happened. It seems that a 
particular race gas supplier has started adding ethanol to the formula. It 
seems that ethanol in that particular mix has a tendency to combust rather 
spontaneously. Notice the delay before combustion is visible and then boom. 
I hope this calls attention to the use of ethanol additives for passenger 
cars is a bad thing. Several years ago the city vehicles here in town 
started using ethanol in their gas and had to stop completely when almost 
all of the car/trucks quit running for various ignition related problems. 
It's never been recommended again. If I recall correctly, maybe 10 years 
ago there was a big push to include ethanol in the pump gas and then I 
noticed it wasn't being added anymore. No reasons were given it just 
disappeared. Some older pumps still have the sticker that says "We use 
Ethanol in our gas". That was suppose to make us want that gas huh? I don't 
and hope we aren't forced to use that in our cars again.

HTH,

Evan 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 14:40:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: Re: Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>From [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>My brother called me Sunday to ask me if I saw Dale's car burst into 
>flames. I hadn't. He then told me why it may have happened. It seems that a 
>particular race gas supplier has started adding ethanol to the formula. It 
>seems that ethanol in that particular mix has a tendency to combust rather 
>spontaneously. 

There are remarkably few materials that will spontaneously combust. Ethanol
and gasoline are not some of them. There still needs to be an ignition
source.

>Notice the delay before combustion is visible and then boom. 

The delay results from the time that it took the spilled fuel to reach a
surface hot enough to ignite it. You could have taken that fuel out on the
track and spread it in a fine mist and without an ignition source all you
get is a big mess. No boom.

>I hope this calls attention to the use of ethanol additives for passenger 
>cars is a bad thing. 

Now we are entering the FUD zone... Ethanol is no more dangerous than
gasoline. In some respects, it is safer. Gasoline has a hot surface ignition
temperature of 495 F. Ethanol has one of 793 F. Furthermore, ethanol has a
higher flash point than gasoline 55F vs -40F. By all rights, ethanol is a
safer fuel. Of course, it contains less energy per unit volume than gasoline
and burns with an almost invisible flame, so pure ethanol as a fuel has its
share of short commings.

>Several years ago the city vehicles here in town 
>started using ethanol in their gas and had to stop completely when almost 
>all of the car/trucks quit running for various ignition related problems. 

Not surprised. From the flash point and ignition temperature, and the
hydroscopic nature of ethanol I can see ignition problems especially in cold
climates.

>It's never been recommended again. If I recall correctly, maybe 10 years 
>ago there was a big push to include ethanol in the pump gas and then I 
>noticed it wasn't being added anymore. No reasons were given it just 
>disappeared. 

About ten years ago federal law began to require oxygenated fuels in certain
markets. Ethanol was one additive that met the requirement. Later came MTBE
which didn't have problems with moisture or seals. More laws were passed
that mandated MTBE in the fuel. Ethanol went away in most places. Now MTBE
is leaching into groundwater, so it is on the way out.

>Some older pumps still have the sticker that says "We use 
>Ethanol in our gas". That was suppose to make us want that gas huh? 

Was this at Diamond Shamrock stations by chance? They got in trouble for
putting too much ethanol in the gas and it started taking out small high
compression engines like outboards and most 2 strokes. They had to start
putting labels on the pumps so that people would know it was in there.

>I don't 
>and hope we aren't forced to use that in our cars again.
>

Well, it is probably already in the fuel in your tank right now. Up to a
certain percent ethanol doesn't have to be reported and it raises the octane
number. If you are running 87, then it probably isn't in there. 89 or higher
and it probably is.

-- Joe

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                       Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                        Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 08:27:16 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Earnhardt
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 7/19/04 11:36 PM, "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> Can someone explain to me why all the news coverage is about the "lucky Dale
> who escaped this horrific crash with minor injuries" and not about "why did
> this Corvette burst into flames after a very insignificant rear impact with
> a tyre wall".
> 
> What a joke.
> 
> The car and it's designers tried to kill him, and he's a hero for surviving.

Speed Channel said that the car had just been fueled, and that the full
filler neck snapped off the fuel cell in the impact. Certainly we all saw
the splashing fuel on that bumper cam shot. I too was surprised to see no
evidence of a central fire suppression system in action.

The marshals got there quickly - especially by, say, Indianapolis standards
- but didn't seem to be in fire suits. Despite this one of them went in to
pull Earnhardt away from the burning wreck.

Anyone see the hilariously inept report on ABC national news last night?
They appeared to be under the impression that this was a NASCAR race.

OBBMWC: The Touring Car race was, err, lively.

Spoilers below:

On Saturday the three Bimmerworld cars took each other out in spectacular
fashion. On the starting grid! It was confusing, but looked as as James Clay
may have stalled, Matt Richmond ran into the back of him, and then Seth
Thomas hit Matt after an intervening car suddenly pulled aside. This turned
Matt's car over on its roof. Nobody who saw it will forget Matt's
"celebration" dance.

Then very fast BMW driver Bob Stretch punted off two other cars, including
the second place car in the closing laps, in a pretty inexcusable fashion
(and earned himself a 3 race probation). In Sunday's race Bill Auberlen
neatly and decisively took car of THAT little problem...

Talking of which, isn't Auberlen an amazing driver? He won on Saturday
carrying 200+ lbs of "Rewards Ballast," and brought in second on Sunday with
250 lbs of penalty. Plus he's always the most enthusiastic in crediting his
team and sponsors.

Neil
96 M3


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 11:22:37 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E30 Tranny data
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I'm having a hard time finding the specific tranny data for an 1990 E30
with manual. Is this a Getrag?
Any idea where some detailed specs are posted?

-Kevin




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 11:39:43 -0700
From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 Tranny data
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Should be a Getrag 260/5/50

Kurt


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>I'm having a hard time finding the specific tranny data for an 1990 E30
>with manual. Is this a Getrag?
>Any idea where some detailed specs are posted?
>
>-Kevin
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 16:10:21 -0400
From: Thomas Philip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E34> '95 540ia transmission cost?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My parents just got a staggering bill for a new transmission for their 
92k mile '95 540ia.  Dad was driving the car home the other day when it 
did a harsh shift (big clunk) and displayed the "trans program" 
message.  After that, it seemed like the trans wouldn't shift down 
below a certain gear (3rd).  Dad said that starting off from a light 
was sluggish, but the car felt fairly normal at speed.  Today they took 
it into their local dealer and got an estimate for nearly $7k:

trans p/n 24001422506 $5999.00
10 hrs labor @ $77.00 / hr
trans fluid p/n 83229407765 $142.38

The car seems to drive fine now and is not displaying the error.  A 
couple questions:

1. is this a typical age for an automagic 540 to need a new trans?
2. are these costs in line with what we could expect to pay?
3. is it advisable to get an estimate from a trans shop like AAMCO 
rather than through the dealer?
4. does anyone know of an independent BMW mech in central FL (tampa, 
orlando) who would be capable of handling this sort of problem?

Thanks for the advice.

tom


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 17:51:22 -0400
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Thomas Philip" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E34> '95 540ia transmission cost?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Time to find a shop that you can trust.

24 00 1 422 506, BMW list price, $4850.00
83 22 9 407 765, BMW list price, $132.00 for a 5 litre jug.

Trans comes pre-filled from the factory, so at most, they'll need 1 litre of
oil, more likely, they won't need any.

10 hours for labour is slightly high, but not as far off base as their
transmission price.

To answer your question, the 5HP30 in the E34 540i was notorious for valve
body problems and a couple of other hard part issues.  If the valve body
problem was ignored, it would lead to a definite failure of those hard
parts.  Even if there were no valve body symptoms, the hard parts could
still fail.

>From the sound of what you have, one of the check balls in the valve body
got stuck. It's worn down, found it's way into a spot it wasn't supposed to
go, caused the failure mode, then after shut down, made it's way home.

As the car is driving fine right now, there's a good chance that no hard
parts have failed, so I'd recommend a valve body rebuild and fluid/filter
change.  Should come in under $1000.

Brett Anderson
KMS



> -----Original Message-----
> trans p/n 24001422506 $5999.00
> 10 hrs labor @ $77.00 / hr
> trans fluid p/n 83229407765 $142.38
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.725 / Virus Database: 480 - Release Date: 7/19/2004



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 18:28:54 -0400
From: "Ryan Brenneman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 Control Arms
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Group.

I need to put on some control arms on my dual purpose(slanted toward
performance) 92 325i. I saw the aluminum vs. steel debate a while back
and it looks like steel wins for drivers school. But I have the offset
control arm bushings. I have been led to believe that the 95 M3 control
arms have different geometry than the 96 and up arms which used a
centered bushing. Either of which have the stronger ball joints than the
stock 325 control arms. Now though I have also seen some advertising for
325 arms with solid ball joints(somewhere.but now that I am writing I
can't remember where). So what I am asking is which arm do I need? I
figure it is the 95 M3 arm but before I drop the 40% premium on them I
thought I would throw it out here. TIA

Ryan Brenneman




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 18:56:23 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Spray on Wax
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I belive Griot's or maybe one of the other specialty dealers used to sell a product 
called "Engine" or "Motor" shine, it came in an spray can.

can't vouch for it's effects.

David in Richmond, VA

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Jul 19, 2004 1:26 PM
To: BMW BMW BMW BMW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  Spray on Wax

Steve wrote:

> I am looking for recommendations for a spray on wax.
> The purpose is to  wax the various painted areas in the
> engine room. Since a paste or cream  type of wax is
> inappropriate for this application, I figure a spray on
> type is a reasonable alternative. Has anyone had any
> experience with these products?

When Steve says "engine room" I'm assuming he is talking about the "engine
compartment" or "under hood area".

I've tried the spray on way before on hard to reach places but unless you
are able to wipe ALL of it off it will dry cloudy and look bad.

Unless you are a total concours sicko that plans to spend hours under the
hood with long Q-Tips and wax the best way to detail the under hood area is
to use plain old Armor All since it will cleans and shine everything in one
step.

Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039

P.S. When I was living in San Diego I noticed that a lot of the surf shops
used spray on car wax to make the new surfboards shine...


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:14:05 -0500
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Spray on Wax
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Watch any spray on shine product. If you spray on, make sure it is not
permanent and is just basically vinyl dressing. I used spray on motor shine
once and it would not come off. It was obviously a clearcoat type spray
paint, and not a 'dressing'. I had to use mineral spirits to get it off. It
starts to get 'crackly' looking after a while and must be removed. I spray
tire dressing on a hot engine and it bakes in to the black plastic parts and
makes the engine look excellent. The best vinyl dressing on the planet, IMO,
is vinylex (it has excellent UV protection to boot), and I've used tons.
Stoners dressing is good too. These types of spray on products are
definitely not permanent and do attract dirt, but it looks good for quite a
while. Spray on waxes and all that stuff for the exterior, IMO, will NEVER
work as well as good old elbow grease and a quality carnauba wax.

Alex Cagann
http://www.autoconsortium.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Maverick
> Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 5:56 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] Spray on Wax
>
>
> I belive Griot's or maybe one of the other specialty dealers used
> to sell a product called "Engine" or "Motor" shine, it came in an
> spray can.
>
> can't vouch for it's effects.
>
> David in Richmond, VA




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 19:43:50 -0400
From: Aziz Meruani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rust repair (Toronto)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hello all!

I'm looking for some advice regarding a rust repair on my 2001 330i. 
The vehicle's in-service date is August 2000. I bought the car from a 
local used car dealer in March after a BMW dealer did a pre-purchase 
inspection. I noticed the rust in June when I was doing a more thorough 
cleaning before waxing. I stopped by my local dealership to speak with 
a service advisor. He asked me to get two written estimates from body 
shops and he would submit the claim to BMW Canada. Not a huge deal on 
my part to get that done, so off I went. Went back a couple days later 
and handed everything to the service advisor. Got the usual I'll get 
back to you when we hear from BMW. Needless to say, I did not hear back 
and had to call several times before I decided to stop in and speak 
with the service manager. BMW or possibly even the dealership has 
decided to cover the repair (at the lower cost) under warranty. Here is 
a link to some pictures of the area:

http://www.rafiki.org/photos/rust/

Both shops I took the car to said they would simply sand the area down, 
rust coat, skim some fiberglass across and then repaint. Both also 
quoted replacing the scuff plate and pins which will probably snap when 
they remove the parts. Isn't rust from the inside out. Shouldn't there 
be more work involved to really repair rust? How SHOULD this be 
repaired? Anyone familiar with these body shops?

Don Valley Auto Collision
Labor $260.82
Parts $39.10
Additional costs $103.50
Total $403.42

York Mills Automotive
Labor $396.76
Parts $39.10
Additional costs $86.02
Total $521.87

The car has 112,000 kilometers and has been dealer maintained. Mostly 
highway miles between Ottawa and Toronto (from the info I managed to 
get from the original dealer in Ottawa). I just want to get some more 
information before I let them get to work. My 1989 325i with 170k miles 
on it had less rust when I gave it up this year.

Thanks.

-Aziz
BMWCCA #145895
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

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