The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 276 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: New Fuzion Tires Re: New Fuzion Tires Re: New Fuzion Tires Re: New Fuzion Tires Re: New Fuzion Tires Touch Up Specialist in Baltimore/DC Area Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Re: Removing E30 Trailing Arms Re: E30 Hub conversion Re: E30 Hub conversion Re: Bridgestone 730s E34 squeak Re: E34 squeak
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 10:54:25 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well you know me, tell it as I see it. Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Dorffer -> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2004 11:58 PM -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Cc: Michael Lawrence -> Subject: Re: [UUC] New Fuzion Tires -> -> -> Come on Mike, don't hold back, tell us how you really feel... -> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 09:05:42 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't forgot to mention that you also autocross on these tires. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 20:11:11 -0700 >From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I just put on Ecsta 712s, after pretty much balding out my S-03s. The >S-03s lasted me 7100 miles. The Yoko AVS-is before that went almost >11,000, but they actually were corded. > The S-03s were 205/50-16 on my e30 ragtop. The Yokos were 205/55-15. > >:) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 09:55:10 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Haven't there been reports that the RE750s get real noisy as they wear? My last 2 sets of tires were Dunlop SP8000s and Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Positions. Both were 205/55-15. If your commute is more like a slalom, get the SP8000s. They have quicker turn-in. If your commute is more like a skid pad, get the S-03s. They have higher levels of grip. I like both tires, but the SP8000s have the advantage of 1) being cheaper, and 2) not tramlining on my car. The S-03s do tramline a little bit. I haven't tried the Toyos. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 23:57:52 -0400 >From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Come on Mike, don't hold back, tell us how you really feel... > >;-) > >I am in the process of looking at what is offered in 205/55/15 which is a >strange size. I am looking for a decent all around spring-fall tire which >will only see street duty (good dry and wet traction, decent tread life, low >noise). The Bridgestone Potenza RE750 looks to be good choice for the money >(under $100 each). Anyone using these? The Dunlop SP8000 wouldn't be bad >either although the technology is getting a bit old. Toyo T1S is probably >overkill for street commuter duty. > >Later, > >Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 09:34:50 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, Jul 19, 2004 at 09:05:42AM -0700, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Don't forgot to mention that you also autocross on these tires. Oh yeah, I thought that was a given. Doesn't everyone? I also do brief drifting demonstrations during autocross runs. That doesn't help tire life at all. And I just remembered it was the Potenza RE730s that I got 11k miles out of, not the yokos. I really liked them both. ...observes a moment of silence for my old tires cut down in their prime > > I just put on Ecsta 712s, after pretty much balding out my S-03s. The > >S-03s lasted me 7100 miles. The Yoko AVS-is before that went almost > >11,000, but they actually were corded. > > The S-03s were 205/50-16 on my e30 ragtop. The Yokos were 205/55-15. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:18:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You are thinking of the RE730s (at a minimum, the first generation as the second generation was supposed to take care of some of the noise issues although I heard they were still noisy). Hopefully, the RE750s are not obscenely loud and the results at Tire Rack indicate they are normal. I had a set of the RE730s and they were noisy from day one only to get louder as they wore so I got rid of them when I sold the wheels they were mounted on. T1-S and S-03 are probably overkill. I don't need that type of dry performance and would rather pay a little less for a slower wearing tire that gives decent dry/wet performance. Appears the RE750 may be the best choice and still a little overkill. Later, Rich --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Haven't there been reports that the RE750s get real noisy as they wear? My > last 2 sets of tires were Dunlop SP8000s and Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole > Positions. Both were 205/55-15. If your commute is more like a slalom, > get the SP8000s. They have quicker turn-in. If your commute is more like > a skid pad, get the S-03s. They have higher levels of grip. I like both > tires, but the SP8000s have the advantage of 1) being cheaper, and 2) not > tramlining on my car. The S-03s do tramline a little bit. I haven't tried > the Toyos. > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 23:57:52 -0400 > >From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I am in the process of looking at what is offered in 205/55/15 which is a > >strange size. I am looking for a decent all around spring-fall tire which > >will only see street duty (good dry and wet traction, decent tread life, > low > >noise). The Bridgestone Potenza RE750 looks to be good choice for the > money > >(under $100 each). Anyone using these? The Dunlop SP8000 wouldn't be bad > >either although the technology is getting a bit old. Toyo T1S is probably > >overkill for street commuter duty. > > > >Later, > > > >Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 10:53:19 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Touch Up Specialist in Baltimore/DC Area Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My wife's 1998 318Ti, newly repainted from a minor fender bender 3 months ago, just got keyed this weekend. Some of the scratches look lite enough that I could polish out, but one across the hood may need some more help - if not repainted. Any recommendations, names, numbers, web sites, etc. for touch-up - scratch fixers in the Baltimore/DC area? On another related topic - although I hate them, it seems an easy way to help prevent (note key word help - not eliminate any possibility) this from happening again would be to install a proximity alarm. One of those alarms that starts chirping if you walk too close. Does anybody have any thought on these? Phil '95 325 Ti '98 318 Ti ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 08:58:32 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The ones I bought at Monument Car Parts are a nice blue and work very well for me. This is probably of no help to you. I had no idea there were multiple grades. Scott Miller Provider of Useless Information GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2004 13:19:00 +0000 >From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >It seems that many use nitrile gloves to minimize contact with fluids while >working. Decades of mechanics obviously got along without this. I usually >used garden gloves for oil changes but you can't do anything fine / precise >as you have no tacticle feel with these. > >There seem to be a few brands of nitrile gloves, several grades (industrial >is likely the trick) and choice of thickness. Would anyone care to add he / >her two cents as to good / bag gloves and suppliers they appreiciated? > >Thanks in advance, > >Gregory in Geneva >next project car is a 1960's Farmobil (700 mechanicals) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 12:56:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Group, Since we're on the topic of gloves. I work in a biological lab, and I always have to make sure which glove will keep my hands from falling off when handling various chemicals and samples ;). I have come across chemicals that would just permeate through latex and/or nitrile gloves in microliter quantities. I like the microflex brand in general, but they are also one of the most expensive brands in the market. Here is a link of what glove should be used with what kind of chemical: http://www.microflex.com/disComp/distributor/images/misMaterials/miscpdfs/ChemResChart_Latex&Nitrile.pdf I haven't read through this thread so if anyone else put a similar chart up sorry for the redundant info. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 16:29:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Nitrile gloves for wrenching question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, 19 Jul 2004, Mike Hsu wrote: > http://www.microflex.com/disComp/distributor/images/misMaterials/miscpdfs/ChemResChart_Latex&Nitrile.pdf > > I haven't read through this thread so if anyone else > put a similar chart up sorry for the redundant info. Thanks. It wasn't redundant. Cliff notes: latex not recommended for use with gasoline, kerosene, or motor oil. Neither latex nor nitrile recommended for use with brake fluid. I wonder what material is recommended for use with brake fluid? joel ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 10:50:14 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Removing E30 Trailing Arms Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Good to know, thanks Joe. This is a California car, and things are not rusting out underneath like they do in other parts of the country. The parking brakes have been working just fine. I figure I'll just clean and lubricate what needs to be cleaned and lubricated and put the old parts back in. Right now I seem to be having a run of "everything I touch turns to crap", so the less I try to do, the fewer things I'll break. BTW, I was careful not to lose the little pins, and in fact, I reattached the cables to the actuators out of the parking brake assembly and put rubber bands around the actuators so that the end would not slip out lose the pin. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 10:00:47 -0400 (EDT) >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) >Subject: Re: Removing E30 Trailing Arms >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >From Scott & Charlotte Miller <snip> >>At the wheel, the cable end fits into the actuator gizmo. I >>discovered that I could pull the cable end out of the actuator and >>then push it through the trailing arm, freeing it entirely from the >>arm. This way, I did not have to remove the entire cable, and it >>didn't matter that it snagged on the blue sheath. >> >>Is this bad? Did we do something wrong? Why didn't anyone tell us to >>do it that way to begin with? I'm sure I've screwed something up. > >Not really. What they didn't tell you is that the guts of the cables don't >come out of the sheaths. The other part of this is that the sheaths aren't >held in by much under the car. I presume that you were supposed to pull the >sheaths out too. Removing the cables at the brakes is fine so long as you >can get the linkages all back together and you don't loose that little pin. > >If your cables have stretched or if the sheaths are showing signs of damage >or failure (bend them, if they crunch they are rusting out inside) the time >to replace them is now. You already have half the work done and with the >trailing arms out you have a much better shot at the other end of the cable. >There are no fasteners holding the cables to the tubes that run inside the >car. The only thing holding them in is rust. I had to drill mine out. Hard >to get the drill in position with the trailing arms in place, hence the >suggestion that now is the time to get in there and pull them out. > >-- Joe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 11:18:25 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Hub conversion Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gents, It looks like my son and I will get an E30 for him to drive. One question arises. How is the hub conversion done to convert from 4 bolt to 5 bolt? I have seen some web data that suggests it can be done with E36 suspension parts or E30 M3 parts. Which is best? Which most reliable? It would seem that the E36 route would allow more variation in upgrade paths for both front and back. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 16:41:48 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 Hub conversion Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Any reason for this conversion? What are your goals from it? I've known a couple of people who've recently converted standard E30's to E30 M3 suspensions.....& wondered why. You will change the offset, as well as other suspension components & have to do the brakes. FWIW, the E30 M3 used hubs & brakes designed for the nearly (in some cases) 1000lb heavier 5 series cars making it over specced to say the least. Why not save yourself time, effort & cash & just buy an E30M3 or E36? Unless your goal is to spend time under an old car with your son. As far as reliable/best/upgradable, the front suspension in an E30 & E36 M3 are nearly indentical. In the rear, you'd have to find out if an E36 hub would be compatable with the E30 trailing arms. >From all the people I've seen tracking & racing standard E30's, I'da never guessed there was that much of a short-coming in the 4-lug hubs. :) > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, July 19, 2004 14:18 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 Hub conversion > > > Gents, > > It looks like my son and I will get an E30 for him to drive. > One question > arises. How is the hub conversion done to convert from 4 bolt > to 5 bolt? I > have seen some web data that suggests it can be done with E36 > suspension > parts or E30 M3 parts. Which is best? Which most reliable? It > would seem > that the E36 route would allow more variation in upgrade > paths for both > front and back. > > -Kevin > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 15:57:12 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Bridgestone 730s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The 730s get quieter if you take them to the track and chunk off 30% of the tread. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 53k 2002 Audi AR E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 16:15:27 -0400 From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 squeak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Every time I first sit in the car I hear a squeak coming from the rear suspension area. Any ideas on a common cause? Dana 94 530i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 13:25:36 -0700 From: "JS Nord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 squeak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Parking brake. Try it without the parking brake set and see if it goes away. Jeff 90 535i >From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [UUC] E34 squeak >Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2004 16:15:27 -0400 > >Every time I first sit in the car I hear a squeak coming from the rear >suspension area. Any ideas on a common cause? > >Dana >94 530i > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _________________________________________________________________ Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/ ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
