The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 280 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Rust repair (Toronto) Re: Rust repair (Toronto) Spray on wax Re: Spray on wax Re: Spray on wax Re: e39 and KW Coilovers for Sale odometer reading Citrus Cleaner Detailing Re: Detailing Re: Detailing Re: e34 Euro headlight help 540ia Transmission Re: E34 Euro Headlights E36 Traling arm bushing
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:22:14 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Aziz Meruani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Rust repair (Toronto) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As you are probably aware, the only way to repair that properly is to remove ALL the rust. Rust is cancer, and the slightest bit left behind will come back. That area needs to be sandblasted, then all metal filler, then repainted and clearcoated. If they do what you have had estimated, the rust will be back within one year. Sanding the area will not remove all the rust, no way. AFAIK, BMW bodies are warrantied to 100k or 10 years for rust or corrosion. Tell them to fix it right or you will be back again and again. Unless this area has been repainted from some accident you or the previous owner has had, they are fully responsible. If it has not been repainted and is factory paint, then obviously someone knicked that area when they were assembling the car at the factory...all the way to bare metal, and you are seeing the result. Another thing you should ask them, and something I am familiar with being a dealer, is that the BMW dealer in your area will either have a body shop there, or they will have ONE bodyshop they usually do business with. This body shop will have tons of experience with BMW's and know their stuff...find out who this is and insist the work is completed there. Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Aziz Meruani > Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 6:44 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] Rust repair (Toronto) > > http://www.rafiki.org/photos/rust/ > > Both shops I took the car to said they would simply sand the area down, > rust coat, skim some fiberglass across and then repaint. Both also > quoted replacing the scuff plate and pins which will probably snap when > they remove the parts. Isn't rust from the inside out. Shouldn't there > be more work involved to really repair rust? How SHOULD this be > repaired? Anyone familiar with these body shops? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:27:24 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Aziz Meruani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Rust repair (Toronto) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > no way. AFAIK, BMW bodies are warrantied to 100k or 10 years for rust or > corrosion. Tell them to fix it right or you will be back again and again. looking at the owners manual in my E30 and Z3, it clearly states that BMW bodies are warrantied against rust perforation (ie a rust hole completely through a panel). Surface rust is not a warranty item, and believe me, cars from this area (Ottawa Canada) develop a fair amount of rust long before the warranty expires. (Ottawa is about a million times worse rust-wise than Toronto) That being said, on a car as new as yours, dealers often clean them up to make the customer happy. It is likely that there was a small chip in the paint at the edge of the panel (at the join under the plastic trim) and rust has crept in. Proper repair would be sandblasting the area (after removing the plastic trim) and repainting (and crossing your fingers). The Toronto area has a large and thriving chapter of the BMW Club Canada - they'd be the best ones to point you in the right (local) direction. (http://bmwclub.ca - trillium chapter) Chris Pawlowicz '89 325i - daily driver.. 15+ Ottawa winters.. depressingly rusty '99 Z3 2.8 - summers only.. pretty clean ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 20:10:32 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Spray on wax Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex Cagann writes: Watch any spray on shine product. If you spray on, make sure it is not permanent and is just basically vinyl dressing. I used spray on motor shine once and it would not come off. It was obviously a clearcoat type spray paint, and not a 'dressing'. I had to use mineral spirits to get it off. It starts to get 'crackly' looking after a while and must be removed. I spray tire dressing on a hot engine and it bakes in to the black plastic parts and makes the engine look excellent. The best vinyl dressing on the planet, IMO, is vinylex (it has excellent UV protection to boot), and I've used tons. Stoners dressing is good too. These types of spray on products are definitely not permanent and do attract dirt, but it looks good for quite a while. Spray on waxes and all that stuff for the exterior, IMO, will NEVER work as well as good old elbow grease and a quality carnauba wax. I am also a big fan of Vinylex, great stuff, been using it for many years. It will not attract dust and dirt if you let is soak in for a few hours, then wipe it off really well with either a paper towel or a terry cloth towel. It does a great job on all the plastic parts in the engine room as well as other places. I respectfully disagree with you on the carnuba wax however. It's a surface coating that wears off very quickly, and doesn't produce the deep wet look of a good polymer based polish. Due to the fact that it is a surface coating, it also attracts dirt and dust that is difficult to dust off. I used to use Classic Car Wax back in the old days as it was the best of what was available back in the '70s. I also used Zymol for a few years with the same results. Carnuba based waxes are 50 year old technology, and just aren't as effective as the new polymer polishes. I use Zaino polish, and it makes Zymol look silly. My apologies to all you Zymol lovers out there. Zaino also lasts 8 to 10 months between applications, as compared to 30 to 40 days for Zymol. In my mind, the choice is very obvious. Of course I am not likely to change the minds of the die hard Zymol users out there, and that is not my intention. Personal choice is a great thing. However, I am looking for a wax that does not require removal of the dried haze. As I mentioned in my first post, I want to wax the painted surfaces under the hood, and many of those surfaces do not have good enough access to apply a paste wax/polish effectively, never mind removal of the haze. I'll have to take a trip to Pep Boys and read some labels. Cheers Everyone Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:38:38 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Spray on wax Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, DO go ahead,, change my mind. Please tell us more about this Zaino. Barry (openminded long time Zymol sniffer) Zaino also lasts 8 to 10 months between applications, as compared to 30 to 40 days for Zymol. In my mind, the choice is very obvious. Of course I am not likely to change the minds of the die hard Zymol users out there, and that is not my intention. Personal choice is a great thing. > > However, I am looking for a wax that does not require removal of the > dried haze. As I mentioned in my first post, I want to wax the painted > surfaces under the hood, and many of those surfaces do not have good > enough access to apply a paste wax/polish effectively, never mind > removal of the haze. I'll have to take a trip to Pep Boys and read > some labels. > > Cheers Everyone > Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 00:12:15 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Spray on wax Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve, this may sound like an oddball idea... what if you tried Vinylex on the underhood painted surfaces? The underhood paint, as you will notice, is not the same paint as the bodywork. It's flat and not clearcoated, and only superficially the same color (not metallic, and often a little lighter). I suspect it's more porous than the finished external bodywork paint and might not ever look "waxed" in the shiny/glossy sense. The best you may get is a cleaner, richer look with the vinylex. As exposure to rain and regular washing is not a problem, I doubt it would disappear rapidly. - Rob ---- Original Message ---- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >However, I am looking for a wax that does not require removal of the >dried haze. As I mentioned in my first post, I want to wax the >painted surfaces under the hood, and many of those surfaces do not >have good enough access to apply a paste wax/polish effectively, >never mind removal of the haze. I'll have to take a trip to Pep Boys >and read some labels. > >Cheers Everyone >Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:05:34 -0700 From: "Kelvin Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e39 and KW Coilovers for Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I forgot to add that the price includes all mods. I spent over 12k on the mods that are included with the car. They include 19" Hamann PG2's, Potenza S03's, BMW front lip spoiler, Hamann side skirts, M5 rear bumper, Racing Dynamics exhaust, etc... as listed on the webpage. I'm also considering selling parts separately. Thanks for the bandwidth. - Kelvin > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kelvin Liu > Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2004 7:59 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] e39 and KW Coilovers for Sale > > > Car for Sale - 2000 BMW 528i, Price - $31k > > Nearly all options, 52k mi, no dings or scratches, immaculate > condition > Selling it to go to grad school in the east. > - Anthracite Gray > - 5 Speed Manual Transmission > - Sport/Premium Package > - Xenon Headlights > - Fold down rear seats w/ ski hole > - Sunroof > - Lumbar support > > more info at > http://classy5er.freewebspace.com/e39_sale.htm > > > > KW Variant 2 Coilovers, Retail - $2225, Price - $1100 > - Some of the nicest true coilovers you can get for an e39. > See more info > at: > > http://classy5er.freewebspace.com/sale.htm > > - The fronts were on the car 1 year. The rears were never installed. > > Manufacturer info at: > http://www.kwsuspensions.com/coilovers.htm > > > All prices are negotiable. > - Kelvin Liu > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:32:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: odometer reading Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, As I mentioned a few posts ago, the instrument cluster in my E36 has gone kaput, except for the speedo, which reads higher than my actual speed. The odometer says "PPPPPP" in it, and Brett advised that the cluster has to be replaced, but the dealer has to program the mileage into the new cluster. That said, I was wondering if the mileage I've been driving since it went out is still being recorded; someone told me that it wasn't, although I don't think that's true. I know that the odo has that little red dot on it which lights if the mileage on the cluster matches that saved in the DME, so I am thinking that the mileage IS being saved but just not showing on the cluster. Is this correct, or will I need to make an estimate of how much I've driven since it went out? I sure hope I won't have to, as the car is my only transportation, so I've had to drive it to and from work for a week. :-/ TIA, Brian __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:35:44 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Citrus Cleaner Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've been using a citrus wax remover/base cleaner made by "DaKine" http://www.boardtactics.com/prod/DAKINE/Base+Cleaner+8+oz/ to remove old wax on my skis and snowboards before I hot wax for years. A while back I discovered that this stuff is great for cleaning under the car. I have never found cleaner that works so well (it puts Simple Green to shame). At first I was just using the stuff to clean the grime from visible areas in the wheel wells, but lately I have been using it to clean all kinds of things including the garage floor (I have never used anything that works so well to get oil off concrete). My problem is that at $10 for 8 oz. at Ski Shops this stuff costs more than a decent Napa Cabernet. Does anyone know of any other (lower cost) citrus cleaners that cost less than $1 per ounce? Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50038 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 21:53:32 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex Cagann wrote: > Watch any spray on shine product. If you spray on, make sure > it is not permanent and is just basically vinyl dressing. I used > spray on motor shine once and it would not come off. It was > obviously a clearcoat type spray paint, and not a 'dressing'. > I had to use mineral spirits to get it off. It starts to get 'crackly' > looking after a while and must be removed. Most Used Car dealers and/or Used Car auctions will steam clean the engines and then spray them with clear to make them shine. This stuff always turns yellow and begins to crack and I have never found any way to get it all off. > The best vinyl dressing on the planet, IMO, is vinylex (it has excellent > UV protection to boot), and I've used tons. I like Vinylex, but I like Maguire's #40 a little better http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=10560 to clean and shine interior plastic (it does not "shine" as much as Vinylex) and I have not found anything that can beat plain old Armor All Classic (that you can get for less than almost any other care care product in the large gallon sized jug at Costco or Kragen) for cleaning and shining under the hood and under the car. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 I've admitted I have a problem and don't clean the wheel wells very often any more, but every now and then I'll "fall off the wagon" and take off all the wheels and clean them inside and out along with the wheel wells and the suspension... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:38:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > I've admitted I have a problem and don't clean the > wheel wells very often any more, but every now and then > I'll "fall off the wagon" and take off all the wheels > and clean them inside and out along with the wheel > wells and the suspension... Horray for fastidious cleaning! I've found a partner in crime, I can no longer clean in silence. I think it's time to initiate DA...Detailer's Anonymous... Hi everyone, I'm Brian. I sometimes unbolt my front seats when vacuuming the car before washing to get them clean underneath (and to gather back all my loose change). :-P Yes, I admit, to _really_ "wash my car" means a 6-8 hour job. Waiting for the next chance I have to wash, as I am looking forward to polishing and waxing the door jambs and seams :-P Brian __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:28:24 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, I thought I was the only one :-) LOL. Yep, BTDT. On my old 88 M5, I once took it to a friend of mines shop, put it up on a lift, removed the wheels, steamed the undercarriage and suspension parts, scrubbed the wheels back and front. It was a monthly process to scrub the interior with a toothbrush and steam the carpet. The carpet and mats have to have those scrub lines in it, or I'm not happy :-). Alex Cagann ex 88M5 current 86 Carrera Coupe > I sometimes unbolt my front seats when vacuuming the > car before washing to get them clean underneath (and > to gather back all my loose change). :-P > > Yes, I admit, to _really_ "wash my car" means a 6-8 > hour job. Waiting for the next chance I have to wash, > as I am looking forward to polishing and waxing the > door jambs and seams :-P > > Brian ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 04:56:45 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: e34 Euro headlight help Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you need to find the newer style electrical connectors (male or female), buy BMW publication 01.31.9.789.991 (Standard Small Parts & Small Accessories). It's VERY handy for ID bolts, hardware, electric bits, etc. for BMW's from past to present. If you want to find the Euro connectors on your ETK, this would also work IF you set your regional options to include EUR cars. If not, you'll only get choices for US market cars. Best regards, Gregory in Geneva 1990 E30 325i touring (Euro car, euro lights) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:47:39 -0700 (PDT) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 540ia Transmission Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I bought my transmission for my E34 M5 from Pacific BMW. They give 30% MSRP on all parts and I paid just over $3k for my remanuf. transmission. That will save you some cash. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Vote for the stars of Yahoo!'s next ad campaign! http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 11:02:10 +0000 From: "D Beilstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 Euro Headlights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have been looking into this upgrade myself. I thought I saw while doing some research that it would be necessary to order some type of wire adapting unit (saw on Bekker Imports website) as the euro headlights have different power requirements. Others may have first hand experience though. Darren _________________________________________________________________ Don’t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:29:28 -0300 From: "rblangille" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Traling arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I seem to recall that when I had these replaced on my 92 325i, the mechanic was able to get the job done WITHOUT removing the drive axle, notwithstanding that Bentley says otherwise. I'm thinking of replacing these busing on my '97 328ic, as a preventive measure. Am I correct that this can be done without removing the drive axle, or am I dreaming? That aside, any (other) tips? Thanks. Roger Langille PEI Canada ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
