The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 281 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames Re: odometer reading Re: E36 Traling arm bushing Re: Spray on Wax Re: E36 Traling arm bushing Installing E34 Euro lights <E30> Clutch Frustration Citrus Cleaner Detailing Re: Detailing Re: Detailing Service Interval Cheat Sheet Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet <E30> strange handling
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2004 13:06:22 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Why Dale's Corvette burst into flames Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> no. any gas vapors will delay a bit & then ignite, no matter what the ethanol involved is. lots of racing crashes are similar. first you spill the fuel, then give it a second or two to find a nice hot exhaust pipe & foosh, you've got your nice confligration. the ethanol was the reason behind the Corvette team changing their fuel cells over night. they had some sort of problem with the foam/other media in the tank being degraded by the increased ethanol in the fuel for that race (perhaps a Kalifornia thing ?) but it doesn't have anything to do with the "tendency to combust spontaneously". gasoline vapors are gasoline vapors, all of which are quite likely to ignite when put in the right situation. it's possible to reduce this tendency as the FAA did at one point with a reformulated jet fuel, but that's not the case here. there's ehtanol in all sorts of gas all over the place, largely driven by the agricultural lobby, as ethanol = corn. I believe that the various region-specific reforumlated gasolines may increase/decrease the use of ethanol, but I'm no gas expert. IIRC ethanol tends to be hard on fuel lines, not have an effect on ignition (electrical) systems. then I guess not getting fuel due to a lack of fuel flow could be considered an ignition problem by some stretch of the imagination. Ben 93 octane, no ethanol around here... [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > My brother called me Sunday to ask me if I saw Dale's car burst into > flames. I hadn't. He then told me why it may have happened. It seems that a > particular race gas supplier has started adding ethanol to the formula. It > seems that ethanol in that particular mix has a tendency to combust rather > spontaneously. Notice the delay before combustion is visible and then boom. > I hope this calls attention to the use of ethanol additives for passenger > cars is a bad thing. Several years ago the city vehicles here in town > started using ethanol in their gas and had to stop completely when almost > all of the car/trucks quit running for various ignition related problems. > It's never been recommended again. If I recall correctly, maybe 10 years > ago there was a big push to include ethanol in the pump gas and then I > noticed it wasn't being added anymore. No reasons were given it just > disappeared. Some older pumps still have the sticker that says "We use > Ethanol in our gas". That was suppose to make us want that gas huh? I don't > and hope we aren't forced to use that in our cars again. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:59:29 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: odometer reading Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The mileage is most likely still being recorded. Dealer cannot reprogram new cluster with mileage, it has to be done at BMW NA headquarters. Cluster has to be ordered precoded with mileage. Car will be down for at least a week. Dealer will read mileage out of the control unit and report that to BMW. That is the mileage the new cluster will get, regardless of whether it's been recording recently or not. You cannot make estimated adjustments. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > As I mentioned a few posts ago, the instrument > cluster in my E36 has gone kaput, except for the > speedo, which reads higher than my actual speed. The > odometer says "PPPPPP" in it, and Brett advised that > the cluster has to be replaced, but the dealer has to > program the mileage into the new cluster. That said, > I was wondering if the mileage I've been driving since > it went out is still being recorded; someone told me > that it wasn't, although I don't think that's true. I > know that the odo has that little red dot on it which > lights if the mileage on the cluster matches that > saved in the DME, so I am thinking that the mileage IS > being saved but just not showing on the cluster. Is > this correct, or will I need to make an estimate of > how much I've driven since it went out? I sure hope I > won't have to, as the car is my only transportation, > so I've had to drive it to and from work for a week. > :-/ > > TIA, > Brian --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.725 / Virus Database: 480 - Release Date: 7/19/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 10:05:06 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Traling arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You do not need to remove the axle. Job takes about 40 minutes for the first side and 20 minutes for the second side, once you've learned how the tool works. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I seem to recall that when I had these replaced on my 92 325i, > the mechanic > was able to get the job done WITHOUT removing the drive axle, > notwithstanding that Bentley says otherwise. > > I'm thinking of replacing these busing on my '97 328ic, as a preventive > measure. Am I correct that this can be done without removing the > drive axle, or am I dreaming? > > That aside, any (other) tips? > > Thanks. > > Roger Langille --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.725 / Virus Database: 480 - Release Date: 7/19/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:26:57 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Spray on Wax Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex, I absolutely agree about the spray can "engine shine" -- I went through the exact same thing once -- a real nightmare. Personally, I a 303 guy. Vinlyex is a bit too shiny for me, and the scent doesn't quite agree with me. It's supposed to have better UV protection though. I use gummi pflege on the rubber and plastic bits under the hood too from time to time. Cheers, Scott >Watch any spray on shine product. If you spray on, make sure it is not >permanent and is just basically vinyl dressing. I used spray on motor shine >once and it would not come off. It was obviously a clearcoat type spray >paint, and not a 'dressing'. I had to use mineral spirits to get it off. It >starts to get 'crackly' looking after a while and must be removed. I spray >tire dressing on a hot engine and it bakes in to the black plastic parts >and >makes the engine look excellent. The best vinyl dressing on the planet, >IMO, >is vinylex (it has excellent UV protection to boot), and I've used tons. >Stoners dressing is good too. These types of spray on products are >definitely not permanent and do attract dirt, but it looks good for quite a >while. Spray on waxes and all that stuff for the exterior, IMO, will NEVER >work as well as good old elbow grease and a quality carnauba wax. > >Alex Cagann >http://www.autoconsortium.com > _________________________________________________________________ Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 07:37:42 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Traling arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 04:29 AM 7/21/2004, rblangille wrote: >I'm thinking of replacing these busing on my '97 328ic, as a preventive >measure. Am I correct that this can be done without removing the drive axle, >or am I dreaming? The only reason to remove the axle is if you want to pull the entire trailing arm so that you can use a hydraulic press to push out the bushing. There are a few easier ways to do this job. The easiest way is to get in touch with Brett Anderson (www.koalamotorsport.com) and rent the special BMW rear trailing arm bushing tools. Then, all you have to do is: 1. Jack up and support the rear of the car. Remember to put car in neutral and release the parking brake 2. Remove wheels 3. Undo the bracket that attaches the brake line to the trailing arm 4. Mark the position of the trailing arm bushing bracket on the car, so you can get it back together with close to the same toe setting. 5. Remove the three bolts holding the bracket to the car. Front of the trailing arm should drop enough to give you full access to the bushing. 6. Remove the bolt holding the bracket to the bushing. Remove the bracket 7. Use the special service tool #1 to pull the bushing. 8. Clean up the bore of the trailing arm with a wire brush, green scrubby, steel wool, whatever. 9. Use the special service tool #2 to put in the new bushing. 10. Replace the bracket 11. Use special service tool #3 to align the bracket to the trailing arm, then tighten up the bracket bolt 12. Push the trailing arm back up (I use a jack under the trailing arm) and replace the three bolts. Use a prybar to get the bracket back to your marks. 13. Replace the brake line bracket. 14. Replace wheel 15. Do other side 16. Drop car 17. Get a wheel alignment. 18. Done! And that's it. If you can't get the special tools from Brett, you can cut out the bushing with a saw, and then jury rig something to press in the new bushing. Bob Tunnell has instructions for this on his web site at <http://www.tunnellracing.com/techtips/trailbush.html>. Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 11:18:23 -0400 From: "Mel Abrahams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Installing E34 Euro lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to Don McAdams- Here's the link: http://www.e30m3therealm3.com/e34/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 10:36:00 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> Clutch Frustration Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I am having a completely frustrating time with the clutch in my '88 325iS not fully disengaging. When I bought the car a month ago it was very hard to get into gear and the car would slightly rock when the engine was shutdown with the clutch pushed in. The clutch was replaced by myself and another list member only 1400 miles before I purchased the car to fix a problem caused by broken pressure plate springs. I decided to remove the trans again to check the pilot bearing and double check the clutch installation, pilot bearing was fine, clutch was fine. Once reassembled and bled it still will not go into gear easily.....so I decided to replace the clutch master and slave. Once new parts were installed and the system was filled/bled it STILL will not go into gear easily. I am at a loss. Do I still have air in the system? Suggestions?? Maybe I should install an automatic. Matt Weimer Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 08:45:03 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Citrus Cleaner Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin Kelly is looking for a good citrus cleaner. Hi Kevin. I really like Zep Citrus Cleaner, a Home Depot product. It comes in gallon jugs and you mix it with water in a spray bottle. A mix of 50/50 satisfies most cleaning problems, a little stiffer on the Zep will really pack a punch. I really like the way this rinses off very quickly and completely. My wife & I call it Agent Orange :-) Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 09:02:20 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a very small detail business going, which I limit to three cars a month. My 'standard' interior/exterior service takes three full days of work. I want to add engine room detailing to the list, and that is why I am looking for a spray on wax. I've been doing the back side of my wheels for many years, nothing new here. Thanks for the suggestion of using Vinylex on the paint Rob. I'll give that a shot on my car before I use it on a client's car. Cheers Steve Albrecht Sick Shine Shop ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 11:15:28 -0500 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I would scream if my car were away from me that long. Do you have a loaner car? Even so, that is the longest I have ever heard anyone doing detailing, especially if the engine hasn't been added just yet. Just wondering why it's taking a lifetime. Celisa- 99 328is Lone Star Chapter > I have a very small detail business going, which I limit to three cars a > month. My 'standard' interior/exterior service takes three full days of > work. I want to add engine room detailing to the list, and that is why > I am looking for a spray on wax. > > I've been doing the back side of my wheels for many years, nothing new here. > > Thanks for the suggestion of using Vinylex on the paint Rob. I'll give > that a shot on my car before I use it on a client's car. > > Cheers > Steve Albrecht > Sick Shine Shop ---------------------------------------- My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter 0 spam mails have been blocked so far. Download free www.spamfighter.com today! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 13:50:22 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Detailing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I would say it's because of the lengths going he's going to. See if you can get some of these guys at the 4-hour turn-around shops to clean the backs of wheels. I did detailing when I was in school, & it's not easy, especially if the car is a mess. Of course, the kind of owner who will leave a car for such a detail will never have the car so messy. It's likely that this kind of owner would expect spotlessness. Had a friend who did detailing in Atlanta. Worked at a place that only did very high-end cars. Kinda place where you'll spend at least 4 figures deep. They had cars coming in all the time worth 7 figures inside of trailers & off-loaded to be detailed, which would take as long as a week....... I just never needed a car that clean. Tim Ng used to get on me all the time how dirty my cars were. He's just let it go by this point....... Lee 88 M3->body's not really worth spending too much time cleaning 01 Saab 9-3SE->clean 'cause it's for sale..... > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Celisa > Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 12:15 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Detailing > > > I would scream if my car were away from me that long. Do you > have a loaner > car? Even so, that is the longest I have ever heard anyone > doing detailing, > especially if the engine hasn't been added just yet. Just > wondering why it's > taking a lifetime. > > Celisa- 99 328is > Lone Star Chapter > > > I have a very small detail business going, which I limit to > three cars a > > month. My 'standard' interior/exterior service takes three > full days of > > work. I want to add engine room detailing to the list, and > that is why > > I am looking for a spray on wax. > > > > I've been doing the back side of my wheels for many years, > nothing new > here. > > > > Thanks for the suggestion of using Vinylex on the paint > Rob. I'll give > > that a shot on my car before I use it on a client's car. > > > > Cheers > > Steve Albrecht > > Sick Shine Shop > > ---------------------------------------- > My Inbox is protected by SPAMfighter > 0 spam mails have been blocked so far. > Download free www.spamfighter.com today! > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 10:34:09 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I received a handful of responses to my post regarding popular service intervals/items. I combined the responses to come up with the following. Just thought some may find it interesting/helpful. This was aimed at an E46, but as I mentioned in the original post, most of it is probably fairly generic. Engine Oil/Oil Filter - 5,000 miles Air Filter - 15,000 miles Micro Filter - 15,000 miles Fuel Filter - 3 years or 50,000 miles Manual Trans Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Diff Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Brake Fluid - every two years Power Steering Fluid - every two years Coolant - every two years Thermostat and coolant sensor - with coolant Hoses - Every other coolant job Radiator & bleeder screw - 5-6 years or 90,000 miles Spark Plugs - 15,000 miles Belts - 5 years or 50,000 miles Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - 5 years or 75,000 miles Rear Shock Mounts - 3 years or 50,000 miles Shocks - 75,000 miles Crank Sensor - 90,000 miles OEM Battery - 5 years Regards- John Riganati 2000 E46 (has new items on maintenance to-do list) Park City, UT ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 13:10:48 -0400 From: "Yury Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John mind if i repost this on a message board? (bmw forum) regards yury -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 11:34 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Service Interval Cheat Sheet I received a handful of responses to my post regarding popular service intervals/items. I combined the responses to come up with the following. Just thought some may find it interesting/helpful. This was aimed at an E46, but as I mentioned in the original post, most of it is probably fairly generic. Engine Oil/Oil Filter - 5,000 miles Air Filter - 15,000 miles Micro Filter - 15,000 miles Fuel Filter - 3 years or 50,000 miles Manual Trans Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Diff Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Brake Fluid - every two years Power Steering Fluid - every two years Coolant - every two years Thermostat and coolant sensor - with coolant Hoses - Every other coolant job Radiator & bleeder screw - 5-6 years or 90,000 miles Spark Plugs - 15,000 miles Belts - 5 years or 50,000 miles Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - 5 years or 75,000 miles Rear Shock Mounts - 3 years or 50,000 miles Shocks - 75,000 miles Crank Sensor - 90,000 miles OEM Battery - 5 years Regards- John Riganati 2000 E46 (has new items on maintenance to-do list) Park City, UT Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 13:24:05 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's a good list for the simple DIY'er out there. But I do find a few things a bit optimistic on changing and will make comments underneath. On the other hand changing things too often is better than too late in most cases. I do find oils being changed too often and that is a problem when you consider the millions of cars out there and the volume of polluted oil that is being disposed of improperly. -> Engine Oil/Oil Filter - 5,000 miles The BMW lights are still better IMO. I have done oil testing in 3 cars and even at 10k miles, the oil always tested OK. -> Air Filter - 15,000 miles Visual inspection should be used also given the different conditions lots of us drive in. I have changed filters in as little as 3000 miles. Always check the filter when changing oil, every 45 days or lengthy dusty driving. If you drive by a large construction site daily, it might clog your filter in as little as 30 days. If you drive on the construction site, it only takes 8hrs if dusty, for example. -> Micro Filter - 15,000 miles -> Fuel Filter - 3 years or 50,000 miles -> Manual Trans Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) I find this very optimistic, 50k miles should be easy enough for synthetic unless noted by the manufactory -> Diff Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Same as above for a street driven car. Tracking the car or severe duty changes this. -> Brake Fluid - every two years -> Power Steering Fluid - every two years -> Coolant - every two years -> Thermostat and coolant sensor - with coolant -> Hoses - Every other coolant job -> Radiator & bleeder screw - 5-6 years or 90,000 miles -> Spark Plugs - 15,000 miles Not owning a E46, not sure about this, but for E36's it should be 30k miles. 15k is very overkill or wrong plug was used. -> Belts - 5 years or 50,000 miles -> Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - 5 years or 75,000 miles -> Rear Shock Mounts - 3 years or 50,000 miles -> Shocks - 75,000 miles -> Crank Sensor - 90,000 miles -> OEM Battery - 5 years ->>>>Driver, atleast 2 schools a year :-)) Mike ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 12:33:25 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E30> strange handling Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Car is an '87 325iS w/about 233K and has Suspension Technique sway bars. A few days ago I was pushing it a little through a sweeping left hand street corner (large intersection) and the back end suddenly became unsettled; kind of felt like tires going flat. I looked in the mirror and think I even saw a black mark from a tire. It just felt loose. Checked tire pressure and all OK. I then thought a sway bar mount had torn loose, but inspection indicates only a minor amount of pulling on one (that will be addressed shortly w/reinforcement). Does this sound like the rear subframe bushings finally went? Visual inspection shows no rubber on the right side visible and only a little on the left side. Also, I've heard of using a stiffer, but not urethane, bushing for improved handling. Do I want this or will I smile just as much w/the stock bushing being new. Car sees 2- 4 driver schools per year and is driven hard on the street. I know this is very subjective but I'm glad to get various opinions. TIA Clarence West Bend, WI ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
