The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 282 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet e30 funky handling Re: e30 funky handling Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration e30 , e28 , e12 body parts in RI Detail Business Re: Detail Business Raw Gas Smell Re: Raw Gas Smell Re: Raw Gas Smell Re: Raw Gas Smell Re: citrus cleaner Re: <E30> strange handling Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 11:59:40 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Yury Rush'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't mind at all. Formatting got a little screwy toward the bottom. Sorry about that. - John -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Yury Rush Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 11:11 AM To: John Riganati; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Service Interval Cheat Sheet John mind if i repost this on a message board? (bmw forum) regards yury -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 11:34 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Service Interval Cheat Sheet I received a handful of responses to my post regarding popular service intervals/items. I combined the responses to come up with the following. Just thought some may find it interesting/helpful. This was aimed at an E46, but as I mentioned in the original post, most of it is probably fairly generic. Engine Oil/Oil Filter - 5,000 miles Air Filter - 15,000 miles Micro Filter - 15,000 miles Fuel Filter - 3 years or 50,000 miles Manual Trans Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Diff Fluid - 25,000 miles (Synthetic) Brake Fluid - every two years Power Steering Fluid - every two years Coolant - every two years Thermostat and coolant sensor - with coolant Hoses - Every other coolant job Radiator & bleeder screw - 5-6 years or 90,000 miles Spark Plugs - 15,000 miles Belts - 5 years or 50,000 miles Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - 5 years or 75,000 miles Rear Shock Mounts - 3 years or 50,000 miles Shocks - 75,000 miles Crank Sensor - 90,000 miles OEM Battery - 5 years Regards- John Riganati 2000 E46 (has new items on maintenance to-do list) Park City, UT Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 14:11:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: e30 funky handling Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Clarence, My experience with subframe bushing failure is that it usually affects the car downhill or under brakes, when weight transfers off the rear wheels. I think this is because when the SF bushings fail gravity is pretty much all thats keeping the car and SF together. If this was a flat turn and the effect was dramatic, I'd look to the front end. joel ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 14:16:15 -0500 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e30 funky handling Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I disagree. When a rear subframe bush goes, it can cause a sudden change in rear end tow... The result can be very scary actually. A rear subframe bush should have about a 1/4 inch gap between the lower plate and the bushing housing, when the car is sitting normally. If this gap is gone, it is time to do the bushings. And don't be cheap as usual Clarence... do both sides, always. ;-) Call Alpine Imports, they have the correct tools to do the job. The 'performance' bushings out there, and there are several styles available, are nice, but for the street, a bit severe. I'd go stock. If you wanna make a cheater change, get the top plate from an M3... it is double thick and further limits the potential for the bushing's flex. Order from the dealer... the part number is 33 33 2 225 797. The bushings are the same for all E30s except the iX. Jenny Morgan Milwaukee, WI On Jul 21, 2004, at 1:11 PM, Joel Gallun wrote: > > Clarence, > > My experience with subframe bushing failure is that it usually affects > the > car downhill or under brakes, when weight transfers off the rear > wheels. > I think this is because when the SF bushings fail gravity is pretty > much > all thats keeping the car and SF together. > > If this was a flat turn and the effect was dramatic, I'd look to the > front > end. > > joel > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: 21 Jul 2004 11:39:12 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Maybe the clutch disc is not sliding freely on the input shaft splines. BTDT. Did you clean the splines and use the special lube? Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA Matt Weimer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am having a completely frustrating time with the clutch in my '88 > 325iS not fully disengaging. When I bought the car a month ago it was > very hard to get into gear and the car would slightly rock when the > engine was shutdown with the clutch pushed in. The clutch was replaced > by myself and another list member only 1400 miles before I purchased the > car to fix a problem caused by broken pressure plate springs. > > I decided to remove the trans again to check the pilot bearing and > double check the clutch installation, pilot bearing was fine, clutch was > fine. Once reassembled and bled it still will not go into gear > easily.....so I decided to replace the clutch master and slave. Once > new parts were installed and the system was filled/bled it STILL will > not go into gear easily. > > I am at a loss. Do I still have air in the system? Suggestions?? > Maybe I should install an automatic. > > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 19:01:02 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Clutch Frustration Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Clean splines are very important. I use valve lapping compound to smooth them. Raise the rear end. If trying to shift into gear causes the rear wheels to turn, the clutch is dragging. Also, maybe something in the pedal linkage or bracket is broken. Gary Derian > Maybe the clutch disc is not sliding freely on the input shaft > splines. BTDT. Did you clean the splines and use the special lube? > > Curt Ingraham > Oakland, CA > > Matt Weimer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I am having a completely frustrating time with the clutch in my '88 > > 325iS not fully disengaging. When I bought the car a month ago it was > > very hard to get into gear and the car would slightly rock when the > > engine was shutdown with the clutch pushed in. The clutch was replaced > > by myself and another list member only 1400 miles before I purchased the > > car to fix a problem caused by broken pressure plate springs. > > > > I decided to remove the trans again to check the pilot bearing and > > double check the clutch installation, pilot bearing was fine, clutch was > > fine. Once reassembled and bled it still will not go into gear > > easily.....so I decided to replace the clutch master and slave. Once > > new parts were installed and the system was filled/bled it STILL will > > not go into gear easily. > > > > I am at a loss. Do I still have air in the system? Suggestions?? > > Maybe I should install an automatic. > > > > Matt Weimer > > Hoosier Chapter > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 14:52:13 -0400 From: Chriskent <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: e30 , e28 , e12 body parts in RI Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have doors and some other body parts that ive saved from various BMW over the years. great doors and trunk from an e12 some 2002doors. nice front red leather seats from the e12 Ive got over a dozen doors. If you're in or near RI (exit 3 off of Rt 95, near URI) Thursday or Friday give me a call to come take a look. I cant save or ship anything. Parts Free, donations accepted. Chris Kent 401-359-1087 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 14:41:02 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Detail Business Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A few people have asked me what the hell I do to a car that takes three days. Well...I'll tell ya, it's not hard to take that long if you 'DETAIL' the entire car. I'll enumerate a basic overview of what I do. The work entails stripping the old wax, clay bar cleaning of the paint (if required), and two coats of Zaino polish with polish Lok, including the interior door jambs. Vinylex all the rubber bumper and side trim, Q-tip clean the kidney grill slats. Clean and wax the wheels. Cleaning and waxing the back side of the wheels is extra time. Shine the tires with Endurance. I let this sit overnight, then wipe off the excess to reduce the dirt attraction. Clean and wax all the windows, except no wax on the windshield. Wash the leather with Woolite and treat the leather with the two part Leatherique products. Wash the mats and remove any and all spots. Clean the headliner. Vacuum everything including the trunk to a very clean condition. Polish all the interior wood trim with Zaino. Clean & Vinylex all the interior plastic and vinyl, including the upper dash. I let the Vinylex sit a few hours, then wipe the excess off very well. This removes the 'greasy' shine as well as the dust attracting properties. I will also clean and detail the engine bay, and that requires extra time. I will also pinstripe the car, for extra time and money. I'm just getting started, so I am charging $100 a day. That undercuts all the others by a significant margin, and my work is far better. Here in the Bay Area, a one-day detail job averages about $250, and there is no way they can accomplish what I do in one day. The leather treatment alone requires at least four to six hours for the first step. This is just an overview, the details are in the details so to speak. I'll go through at least 100 Q-tips per car. My clients have all been very happy and appropriately impressed with my work. It's not easy work, but it is very satisfying. I have a limit of three cars a month right now, but as I get more efficient, I may do four a month. Cheers Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 19:46:20 -0400 From: "Rosario DeCicco" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Detail Business Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Steve: I wish you were on the east coast like in New Jersey. Good luck as you will do well. Rosario ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 16:42:30 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Raw Gas Smell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am getting a smell of gasoline every time I fill my 95 M3 Coupe. There is no visible sign of leakage under the car and the smell goes away when the tank goes down a little bit. I do not force fill when I put gas in it. I run it until the pump shuts off and stop. Any suggestions on where to look for this? Dave Miller 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 15:46:54 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Raw Gas Smell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> gas cap gasket may be old and leaks when the tank is really full. they do go bad. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave and Peg Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 3:43 PM To: 'UUC Digest' Subject: [UUC] Raw Gas Smell I am getting a smell of gasoline every time I fill my 95 M3 Coupe. There is no visible sign of leakage under the car and the smell goes away when the tank goes down a little bit. I do not force fill when I put gas in it. I run it until the pump shuts off and stop. Any suggestions on where to look for this? Dave Miller 95 M3 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 16:08:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Raw Gas Smell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, My E36 325 does exactly the same thing (still), and so I took a look once. I filled up the tank (NOT overfilled, just like you), ran home, and pulled up the rear seat and rubber padding underneath on the left (driver's) side. I unscrewed the black metal shield covering the transfer(?) pump, and sure enough, pooled up in the recess of the top of the pump was gas (confirmed by taking a whiff up close). You might want to try the same, but check the right side too if there's nothing on the left. I still don't know where exactly it comes from, as the lines were tight and dry, but sure enough there was gas pooled in the recess on the top. My only assumption is that there is a small crack that I can't visibly see where the gas leaks through when the tank is full. The vapor pressure on a full tank could be enough to flow through any small cracks on the top of the pump, and thus pool up in that area. I haven't fixed it yet because of various reasons, but mainly because I was never sure if I could fix it (i.e. patch it) or if I would be best off installing a new pump. YMMV, Brian --- Dave and Peg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am getting a smell of gasoline every time I fill > my 95 M3 Coupe. There is > no visible sign of leakage under the car and the > smell goes away when the > tank goes down a little bit. I do not force fill > when I put gas in it. I > run it until the pump shuts off and stop. > > Any suggestions on where to look for this? > > Dave Miller > 95 M3 > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 20:01:37 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Raw Gas Smell Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Fix it before you and a passenger burn up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It is a common problem on E36's. My 95 M3 did this and the cure was a loose fitting hose at the pump. I removed the hose and put a fuel line hose clamp on it. Seems the factory hose just slid off in my hand and thus was leaking fuel around the hose since it did not have enough clamping force on it. Gas dripping from your car which it is can ignite quite easily Fix it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz -> Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 7:09 PM -> To: UUC Digest -> Subject: Re: [UUC] Raw Gas Smell -> -> -> Dave, -> -> My E36 325 does exactly the same thing (still), and so -> I took a look once. I filled up the tank (NOT -> overfilled, just like you), ran home, and pulled up -> the rear seat and rubber padding underneath on the -> left (driver's) side. I unscrewed the black metal -> shield covering the transfer(?) pump, and sure enough, -> pooled up in the recess of the top of the pump was gas -> (confirmed by taking a whiff up close). You might want to -> try the same, but check the right side too if there's -> nothing on the left. -> -> I still don't know where exactly it comes from, as the -> lines were tight and dry, but sure enough there was -> gas pooled in the recess on the top. My only -> assumption is that there is a small crack that I can't -> visibly see where the gas leaks through when the tank -> is full. The vapor pressure on a full tank could be -> enough to flow through any small cracks on the top of -> the pump, and thus pool up in that area. I haven't -> fixed it yet because of various reasons, but mainly -> because I was never sure if I could fix it (i.e. patch -> it) or if I would be best off installing a new pump. -> -> YMMV, -> Brian -> -> --- Dave and Peg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: -> > I am getting a smell of gasoline every time I fill -> > my 95 M3 Coupe. There is -> > no visible sign of leakage under the car and the -> > smell goes away when the -> > tank goes down a little bit. I do not force fill -> > when I put gas in it. I -> > run it until the pump shuts off and stop. -> > -> > Any suggestions on where to look for this? -> > -> > Dave Miller -> > 95 M3 -> > -> > Search the -> > -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> > -> > -> > -> _____________________________________________________________ -> _____________ -> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, -> > founder of the BMW CCA. -> > -> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and -> > home of the Ultimate -> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! -> > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> > -> -> -> __________________________________________________ -> Do You Yahoo!? -> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around -> http://mail.yahoo.com -> Search the -> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] -> -> -> _____________________________________________________________ -> _____________ -> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of -> the BMW CCA. -> -> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the -> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 -> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 17:57:35 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: citrus cleaner Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bane-Clene makes a product called Citrus APS (all purpose spotter). It appears to be mostly d-limonene, as opposed to most citrus cleaners which typically contain only 5-10%. I haven't used this but plan to try some on my garage floor. I *have* used "Perky Spotter," made be the same company, and it's a really great product. Citrus APS is $34/gal. They have a pretty interesting website, bty. www.baneclene.com Cheers, Scott Staewen >Kevin Kelly is looking for a good citrus cleaner. > >Hi Kevin. I really like Zep Citrus Cleaner, a Home Depot product. It >comes in gallon jugs and you mix it with water in a spray bottle. A mix >of 50/50 satisfies most cleaning problems, a little stiffer on the Zep >will really pack a punch. I really like the way this rinses off very >quickly and completely. My wife & I call it Agent Orange :-) > >Steve Albrecht > _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 18:58:35 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> strange handling Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Use stock subframe bushings. Use very hard urethane bushings for the trailing arms. Any flex in the trailing arm bushings is bad, and they are attached to the subframe which sufficiently isolates impacts. The subframe bushings are directional and cause the rear end to steer in the same direction as the front wheels when cornering. This steering action stabilizes the rear end. Gary Derian > Car is an '87 325iS w/about 233K and has Suspension Technique sway bars. A few > days ago I was pushing it a little through a sweeping left hand street corner (large > intersection) and the back end suddenly became unsettled; kind of felt like tires > going flat. I looked in the mirror and think I even saw a black mark from a tire. It just > felt loose. Checked tire pressure and all OK. > > I then thought a sway bar mount had torn loose, but inspection indicates only a > minor amount of pulling on one (that will be addressed shortly w/reinforcement). > > Does this sound like the rear subframe bushings finally went? Visual inspection > shows no rubber on the right side visible and only a little on the left side. > > Also, I've heard of using a stiffer, but not urethane, bushing for improved handling. > Do I want this or will I smile just as much w/the stock bushing being new. Car sees 2- > 4 driver schools per year and is driven hard on the street. I know this is very > subjective but I'm glad to get various opinions. > > TIA > > Clarence > West Bend, WI > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 18:30:24 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Service Interval Cheat Sheet Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Why not install a vacuum sensor like many diesel trucks have. Change the air filter when it becomes restrictive. Gary Derian > > -> Air Filter - 15,000 miles > > Visual inspection should be used also given the different conditions lots of > us drive in. I have changed filters in as little as 3000 miles. Always > check the filter when changing oil, every 45 days or lengthy dusty driving. > If you drive by a large construction site daily, it might clog your filter > in as little as 30 days. If you drive on the construction site, it only > takes 8hrs if dusty, for example. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
