[Elecraft] Pops when tunning AM broadcast stations
Hello In the past days I have been using my K3 for SW broadcast AM listening. Marvellous rig for that task, indeed. But I have notice the following: Some times scaning the bands quickly, I hear a strong pop. The Smeter goes high and I think I have found a station. I tune backwards and there is another pop at the same frequency but there is no signal. The pop is present only when frequency changes, but disapears when frequency is stabiliced. For example there are strong pops at 13676 kHz, 13651 kHz, 13638 kHz, 13626 kHzplenty of them. Have you notice that in your K3? This problem does not disturb receiving stations at all but it is a nasty effect when scanning the band. Many thanks in advance. 73, Ramiro. EA4NZ. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Power Werx S5-30DV Switching P/S Heads Up
I recently purchased the SS-30DV switcher. There are 2 stickers on the outside of the box that say it is an International Model and you need to change it to 115V AC input by sliding the selector on the back.The manual (one sheet) clearly states in the first sentence of a paragraph titled Input Voltage Selection that The power supply is set up for 230V AC input as shipped from the factory. It continues with a description about how to change it to 115V AC. I can't find it now, but I'm sure there was also a separate insert on bright paper warning that it was set for 230V AC. 73, Ken K3IU ~~ On 9/12/2011 9:21 PM, W0UCE wrote: I recently acquired two Power Werx S5-30DV Switching Power Supplies. While the P/S are nice and small, work on 110 / 220 and easily powered my K-3 and TS-480, BEWARE... The P/S come from the factory set for 220V (Slide Switch Selection on the back) The documentation sheet with the P/S doesn't mention the factory default setting of 220. If you power a K-3 or most likely any other rig without changing the input voltage setting to 110 if you run the P/S on 110 and don't change the input voltage switch to 110, you will have terrible AC on transmit when the RF level of the radio is increased over 10 Watts. 73, Jack W0UCE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Power Werx S5-30DV Switching P/S Heads Up
YEPI was one of the very first t order the 'International' version when first released. When I called they did not have stock but expected their first shipment in the coming week so I odered two (2) of them. Both units are in daily use and have never let me down...oh no, I should not have siad that huh? I have also not noticed any birdies or RF hash with either unit and for me the small footprint has been a proven winner. 73 Gary VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile Elecraft Equipment K3 #679, KPA-500 #018 Living the dream!!! - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU To: W0UCE Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Werx S5-30DV Switching P/S Heads Up I recently purchased the SS-30DV switcher. There are 2 stickers on the outside of the box that say it is an International Model and you need to change it to 115V AC input by sliding the selector on the back.The manual (one sheet) clearly states in the first sentence of a paragraph titled Input Voltage Selection that The power supply is set up for 230V AC input as shipped from the factory. It continues with a description about how to change it to 115V AC. I can't find it now, but I'm sure there was also a separate insert on bright paper warning that it was set for 230V AC. 73, Ken K3IU ~~ On 9/12/2011 9:21 PM, W0UCE wrote: I recently acquired two Power Werx S5-30DV Switching Power Supplies. While the P/S are nice and small, work on 110 / 220 and easily powered my K-3 and TS-480, BEWARE... The P/S come from the factory set for 220V (Slide Switch Selection on the back) The documentation sheet with the P/S doesn't mention the factory default setting of 220. If you power a K-3 or most likely any other rig without changing the input voltage setting to 110 if you run the P/S on 110 and don't change the input voltage switch to 110, you will have terrible AC on transmit when the RF level of the radio is increased over 10 Watts. 73, Jack W0UCE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Pops when tunning AM broadcast stations
ooops, Just for clarifying this, when I say scaning the band I mean turning the dial knob Thanks. 73, Ramiro. EA4NZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed the female connector on the KSB2 board. Great. Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it was much easier to access but it was a huge to get the male header into the holes. It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight and seems to work OK with the module installed. Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast. It works! :D TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
Hi TJ, It will be very interesting to see the other answers/recommendations. I use a controlled temp soldering iron, a whole lot of rosin and solder wick. And Quick Chip or Cash Olson has a removal kit that is extra nice too. He's the one that has the solder paste, that works so well. Once in a while, it works well to reflow the board, and pick out the bad part, usually when there is no plastic close at all. The key is a temp contolled iron.Have a great day, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy From: tom.cam...@gmail.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:50:45 -0500 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed the female connector on the KSB2 board. Great. Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it was much easier to access but it was a huge to get the male header into the holes. It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight and seems to work OK with the module installed. Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast. It works! :D TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
you can break or cut the plastic between each pin and desolder or heat each one out individually. just take your time. Even a Hakko 808 may have a problem with so many pins. WT5Y -Original Message- From: TJ Campie Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:50 AM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed the female connector on the KSB2 board. Great. Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it was much easier to access but it was a huge to get the male header into the holes. It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight and seems to work OK with the module installed. Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast. It works! :D TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Tom... Such things are a pain in the ASCII...and I have made several mistakes of this kinds previously. After fooling around, tearing traces, etc. I have discovered that BY FAR THE BEST way to go about this is to use solder braid. You can buy it in small spools from Radio Shack, or just strip off the cover and core of an old piece of coax. I recommend the former. A desoldering station is not needed! When using the braid, be liberal! Don't try to scrimp and save. The surface tension of melted solder is very high, and capillary action will wick it totally into the braid. Heat the braid over the solder and let it suck up the melt, then move to a new section of braid and repeat. Eventually, you'll clean up quite a bit of solder with a few inches of braid. I know it sounds hokey, but it works VERY well. At the end, there will still probably be a little (tiny!) amount of solder holding one or more pins. With care (and maybe a little help from the XYL or a friend to provide a third hand) you will be able to move one end of the header a bit. From there, it is just a matter of applying a bit of heat at the right places and lifting gently. This same technique works well with DIP packages and with thru-hole components. It is often NOT POSSIBLE to save the component. In the case of DIP devices, you can always cut off the legs to make the removal process easier. In the case of the header you are working on, be careful not to apply so much heat that you melt the plastic around the pins. The secret is patience, NOT lots of heat. Take good care of the traces on the circuit board. A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote: ...how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly? -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
Tom, It won't help you with that task right now since you have already done the deed, but the process is easy. For removing the male headers, you can tug on one pin with pliers while heating the solder - that pin will come out - continue while they are all out. For the female headers, the plastic cover can be removed by prying it up a bit at a time starting with a sharp instrument like a knife edge and progressing to a screwdriver tip. Once the cover is off, remove each of the pins one at a time. Ok, the header pins are removed, but you still have solder to clean up so you can put the new part in - use solder wick to remove as much as you can, but there will likely be some left in the holes. I like to use a stainless steel needle - heat the solder pad and push the needle into the hole. If you do not have a stainless steel needle handy, a wooden toothpick will also work in a similar manner. Even though I have a de-soldering station, I often use the needle method to open the holes. It works for me. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote: Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
Hi All, I've just started using my K3 for data modes and have discovered a problem: prominent, irregular and short duration clicking/popping heard the monitored TX audio of the K3, also audible in the transmitted signal when I listen to my signal on another receiver. There is no clicking artefact on received signals, only on my transmitted signal. Here's my set up: I'm using direct connection from K3 to my laptop. No interface, but I have a soundcard in a USB dongle, which I need to connect the audio in and out to my computer. I have Data mode A enabled and ALC set to 4 bars solid with the 5th flickering. Power output is set to 40W. Monitored IMD is good (-29 to-30) using KK7UQ device for off-air monitoring - the signal is otherwise clean. I have checked and can confirm that the clicking/popping is independent of: Line in Gain/soundcard audio drive settings; data mode used (PSK31/RTTY/Olivia - all are affected); digimode software application used (same with Fldigi, Airlink Express, digipan and HRD) and finally, I have USB soundcard dongles of 2 different manufacturers and the problem is present using both. Any ideas or advice gratefully received. I'd like to get rid of this TX clicking! 73 and thanks in advance, John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Data-mode-TX-problem-from-VK7JB-tp6787469p6787469.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
I purchased a Heil PR20 microphone after comparing sound quality with several other options. To my ear, it had a nice combination of clarity and fullness. However, I am getting relatively low output from the mic and consequently low drive to the K3/100. With the microphone configuration on hi and with gain advanced fully (60), I have to speak fairly loudly to drive the K3 to 60 watts measured on an LP100 wattmeter. Power output on CW is the full 100w plus a little. I could design a small pre-amp stage to boost the gain, but am wondering if I am overlooking something (or is it common to use a pre-amp for this type of mic?) Howard W1WF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
Howard, I am using a PR20 and am able to run my mic gain at about 20. I use it on the FP set on H and the onboard preamp turned on ( press 7 ) BTW, I have tried several mics and use the Yamaha CM500 for DX'ing but for rag chewing the PR20 consistently generates the best reports. Rick K6LE On 9/13/2011, at 7:03 , Howard Ashcraft wrote: I purchased a Heil PR20 microphone after comparing sound quality with several other options. To my ear, it had a nice combination of clarity and fullness. However, I am getting relatively low output from the mic and consequently low drive to the K3/100. With the microphone configuration on hi and with gain advanced fully (60), I have to speak fairly loudly to drive the K3 to 60 watts measured on an LP100 wattmeter. Power output on CW is the full 100w plus a little. I could design a small pre-amp stage to boost the gain, but am wondering if I am overlooking something (or is it common to use a pre-amp for this type of mic?) Howard W1WF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
Yes, I've always had those same pops on RTTY. Dave, N4QS Sent via BlackBerry by ATT -Original Message- From: VK7JB zen...@netspace.net.au Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 06:21:49 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB Hi All, I've just started using my K3 for data modes and have discovered a problem: prominent, irregular and short duration clicking/popping heard the monitored TX audio of the K3, also audible in the transmitted signal when I listen to my signal on another receiver. There is no clicking artefact on received signals, only on my transmitted signal. Here's my set up: I'm using direct connection from K3 to my laptop. No interface, but I have a soundcard in a USB dongle, which I need to connect the audio in and out to my computer. I have Data mode A enabled and ALC set to 4 bars solid with the 5th flickering. Power output is set to 40W. Monitored IMD is good (-29 to-30) using KK7UQ device for off-air monitoring - the signal is otherwise clean. I have checked and can confirm that the clicking/popping is independent of: Line in Gain/soundcard audio drive settings; data mode used (PSK31/RTTY/Olivia - all are affected); digimode software application used (same with Fldigi, Airlink Express, digipan and HRD) and finally, I have USB soundcard dongles of 2 different manufacturers and the problem is present using both. Any ideas or advice gratefully received. I'd like to get rid of this TX clicking! 73 and thanks in advance, John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Data-mode-TX-problem-from-VK7JB-tp6787469p6787469.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: FWIW department
This morning I lost reception on 40 meters in my primary receiver. Everything else worked - transmit OK, receive OK on all other bands, second receiver OK. After adding an on-off switch to my LP-PAN (which I've wanted to do for a long time) and checking it out , and reloading K3 firmware- I discovered that, on 40 meters, RX was displayed on the K3's LCD. It wasn't displayed on any other band. After slapping the forehead, I turned RX ANT off and all was normal again. I ain't got no antenna on RX. And no memory of turning it on. But I must have while trying to tune in old friends up north. FWIW - Monty K2DLJ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] PowerWerx P/S Noise Problem Clarification
Perhaps I did not explain the noise problem, cause and cure situation correctly. One of the P/S was purchased from a friend, the other I bought new. The one purchased from my friend had been used; the input power select switch on the back had be changed to 110V as it should be for 110v operation. I had both P/S sitting side-by-side and had not yet changed the power in 220/110 switch setting to 110 on the new supply. I mistakenly picked up the new one and used it with the K-3. Operating the P/S on 110 with the input power select on 220 caused the K-3 to sound like a Marconi Spark Gap Transmitter. The fix was simple, change the input power switch to 110. My bad 73 Jack __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
I'm also using the PR20. FP:H, Mic Gain to 31, Cmp to 18, and I consistently get good audio reports rag chewing or DX. 73, Dennis NJ6G On 9/13/2011 7:03 AM, Howard Ashcraft wrote: I purchased a Heil PR20 microphone after comparing sound quality with several other options. To my ear, it had a nice combination of clarity and fullness. However, I am getting relatively low output from the mic and consequently low drive to the K3/100. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] PowerWerx P/S Noise Problem Clarification
We ordered a Dell computer for the Fire Department and the guy that it was for was having all sorts of trouble. I checked it out, reseated the memory, connectors etcand then looked at the power supply and it was set to 220V! I can't believe it worked at all. Check the voltage setting on anything that allows for 110/220. On 9/13/2011 9:14 AM, W0UCE wrote: Perhaps I did not explain the noise problem, cause and cure situation correctly. One of the P/S was purchased from a friend, the other I bought new. The one purchased from my friend had been used; the input power select switch on the back had be changed to 110V as it should be for 110v operation. I had both P/S sitting side-by-side and had not yet changed the power in 220/110 switch setting to 110 on the new supply. I mistakenly picked up the new one and used it with the K-3. Operating the P/S on 110 with the input power select on 220 caused the K-3 to sound like a Marconi Spark Gap Transmitter. The fix was simple, change the input power switch to 110. My bad 73 Jack __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KSB2 with HM-7 mic question
Thought of something else I ran into last night - I did not have any 820 Ohm resistors to install on the config connector when wiring up for my Icom HM-7 microphone so I used a 1.1k - what are the effects of using a larger value? Should I try to find/make an 820 Ohm resistor or does it matter? TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
Sent from my LG phone Rick Prather k6limae...@gmail.com wrote: Howard, I am using a PR20 and am able to run my mic gain at about 20. I use it on the FP set on H and the onboard preamp turned on ( press 7 ) BTW, I have tried several mics and use the Yamaha CM500 for DX'ing but for rag chewing the PR20 consistently generates the best reports. Rick K6LE On 9/13/2011, at 7:03 , Howard Ashcraft wrote: I purchased a Heil PR20 microphone after comparing sound quality with several other options. To my ear, it had a nice combination of clarity and fullness. However, I am getting relatively low output from the mic and consequently low drive to the K3/100. With the microphone configuration on hi and with gain advanced fully (60), I have to speak fairly loudly to drive the K3 to 60 watts measured on an LP100 wattmeter. Power output on CW is the full 100w plus a little. I could design a small pre-amp stage to boost the gain, but am wondering if I am overlooking something (or is it common to use a pre-amp for this type of mic?) Howard W1WF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] For Sale Price adjustment
I have a Tokyo High Power linear amplifier model HL1.5KFX for sale. I have had it less then a year and it has been operating perfectly since I installed it. It is in a non smoking environment. I also have the original manufacturing carton. The amp comes with a 120 volt power cord. It also includes the K3 interface cable. It has been operated with 220 volts but I will change it to 110 volts when shipping unless otherwise directed. The amplifier is in new condition with no scratches on the front panel. Asking $2700.00 or best offer which includes shipping in CONUS. Payments can be made by PAYPAL or cashers check. Please reply directly. Dave Robertson KD1NA dar...@comcast.net 73 KD1NA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: Heathkit Catalogs
Darrell, WE forget how far computers have evolved. In the 1970's I worked at Goldstone for NASA and the station computers were Dec-910s (TTL and core memory) and big reel-to-reel recorders. I calculated the Doppler for Mariner Venus-Mercury (MVM-73) encounter at Venus using a HP desk calculator as we attempted to find the signal after the spacecraft exited from behind Venus (I was the station receiver project engineer in then-new PLL s-band Rx). Computers were so untrustworthy they had five duplicates on Apollo and took a majority vote on calculations. I was involved with Voyager/Pioneer/Viking missions. I left JPL in 1979 (fun to think back). In 1982 I worked as a programmer using one of the early IBM-PC with 128K mem and dual cassettes (no HD). 73, Ed - KL7UW Message: 5 Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 13:12:11 -0400 From: AB2E Darrell a...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Heathkit Catalogs To: w7...@cox.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: blu152-w45f7989c87aaf2bce9fcbe9b...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 Interesting info Dave. The computer on the 1970s Voyager space probe had a whopping 68K of memory total! And that was multitasking. Source: http://voyager.jpl.nasa.gov/faq.html 73 Darrell AB2E 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45 == BP40IQ 500 KHz - 10-GHz www.kl7uw.com EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-? DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com == __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
Are you running the mic into the rear panel? If so, check your wiring. I ran into this problem. You will need either jumper shield and ground or reverse the two wires as the 1/8 mic jack is mono, not stereo. 73, Jim W5QM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Don: Well, since you put this out to public view, I will answer in public. Please note my admonition to BE CAREFUL, and my suggestion to use a pin vise, not a powered device. There is no need for a complicated set of rules of behavior when common sense will do. If you are so concerned about damaging the grommet, then please note that the SHANK end of a fine circuit-board drill-bit is just as effective as the stainless steel needle you recommend...it also will not be wetted by the melted solder...and is probably infinitely more available than a stainless needle. The dominant part of my advice was to use solder braid early and often, and that a fancy desoldering station is, in the main, unnecessary for the casual repair of a circuit-board blunder. My suspicion is that most people who do HB construction have the necessary tools at hand. My opinion (since we are talking about personal opinions or choices) is that anyone foolish enough to drill out a thru-plated hole probably doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hammer on anyhow. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 9/13/2011 11:48 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home:http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help:http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post:mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by:http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list:http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
Jim, The rear mic jack itself is stereo, but the signal path is mono - which means only the tip and shell are connected in the jack (no connection to the ring). OTOH, if the mic plug is stereo and connects only to tip and ring instead of tip and shell, then there will be no connection for one of the plug wires. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 1:28 PM, Jim Hoge wrote: Are you running the mic into the rear panel? If so, check your wiring. I ran into this problem. You will need either jumper shield and ground or reverse the two wires as the 1/8 mic jack is mono, not stereo. 73, Jim W5QM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
Howard, The problem may be your microphone cable wiring. I will try to cover the three possible cases I know about for connecting a balanced mic to an unbalanced input. The Heil PR20 microphone uses an XLR connector to connect to the mic cord - two balanced wires on pins 2 and 3 plus the shield on pin 1 (standard wiring for pro-audio). How are you connecting the two wires to the K3? One of the wires must connect to ground and the other to the AF input. If you are using the front connector, one of the two wires connects to pin 1 and both the shield and the other wire connects to ground (pins 7 and 8). If you are using the K3 rear connector and you have wired your own plug, one of the wires must connect to the tip of the plug and both the other wire and the shield must connect to the shell. If it is a stereo plug, nothing is connected to the ring. If your mic cable has a 1/4 inch TRS plug on one end (a common pro-audio cable), and you used a 1/4 to 1/8 inch stereo adapter, it will likely not work (out of the box). Open the adapter (or the mic cable plug) and connect the ring to the sleeve. If you used a 1/4 inch stereo to 1/8 inch mono adapter, then it is wired wrong for your application - both sides of the mic element wires are connected together in the typical stereo to mono adapter, and will not work. In other words, the K3 wants unbalanced AF input and your microphone is for balanced operation. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 10:03 AM, Howard Ashcraft wrote: I purchased a Heil PR20 microphone after comparing sound quality with several other options. To my ear, it had a nice combination of clarity and fullness. However, I am getting relatively low output from the mic and consequently low drive to the K3/100. With the microphone configuration on hi and with gain advanced fully (60), I have to speak fairly loudly to drive the K3 to 60 watts measured on an LP100 wattmeter. Power output on CW is the full 100w plus a little. I could design a small pre-amp stage to boost the gain, but am wondering if I am overlooking something (or is it common to use a pre-amp for this type of mic?) Howard W1WF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 with HM-7 mic question
Tom, That microphone has an internal amplifier, and the resistor acts as a collector load resistor. I would guess that anything from the recommended 820 ohms up to about 2k would work, but I can't say for sure since I do not have data on the current drawn by the amplifier from a 5 volt supply. If your microphone works, leave it as-is. If it does not (or results in a distorted signal), then change the resistor when you can get one. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 12:22 PM, TJ Campie wrote: Thought of something else I ran into last night - I did not have any 820 Ohm resistors to install on the config connector when wiring up for my Icom HM-7 microphone so I used a 1.1k - what are the effects of using a larger value? Should I try to find/make an 820 Ohm resistor or does it matter? TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Pops when tunning AM broadcast stations
Pops only occur if there are signals on the band. If band is closed or antenna is desconected there are no pops. 73, Ramiro. EA4NZ El 13/09/11 13:05, Ramiro Aceves escribió: ooops, Just for clarifying this, when I say scaning the band I mean turning the dial knob Thanks. 73, Ramiro. EA4NZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Don, I worked in a large factory where we had a large rework department and I saw a lot of alternative methods for removing connectors and as you said each to his own. I second, your caution to never use a pin vise and drill. The wall thickness is usually less than 0.001. The odds on getting a correctly sized drill are not good. I once had to change a lot of connectors in the field without the assistance of a rework department. Even after removing the pins I still had a lot of solder in the holes. Because the replacement pins were large the holes had to be cleaned out very well. I mounted the board on edge in a Panavise. Then using a 800 degree small conical tip iron pushed straight into the hole on one side for about 5 seconds, I chased the hole from the other side with a short burst of canned air. Cauntion1: Be sure to wear eye protection because the solder can splatter. If it's done right the iron will collect the excess solder. Caution2: Don't use an overly large or small iron and get on and get off the hole quickly. Too much heat will cook the hole out of the board. It's very fast and the hole cleans up well. 73, Fred, AE6QL -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up -- John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
When I built my K1 I actually installed a male connector in the wrong set of holes and was able to successfully remove it without destroying it. I used a large solder sucker (plunger type) and cleared one hole at at time. With a little additional heating and wiggling I was able to pull the header free. I was probably lucky not to have destroyed the board, but it worked. William, AI4VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] #7012 now 160m capable!
All right, now I'm ready for winter. hihi 73 de Al, W2GZN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons learned
I know the instructions for the KPA-500 say not to use a standard SVGA cable. The special KPAK3AUX cable is the way to go. But that cable is too short for the arrangement I had for my station so I thought I could use a standard SVGA expansion cable (female connector on one end, male on the other). What I didn't fully digest is that the wiring is incompatible! I thought the difference was merely the removal of a few pins from a standard SVGA cable. Nope, that doesn't work! So if your station requires a longer cable than the KPAK3AUX you can either purchase two cables and put them in series or you can make up your own. Don't use a standard SVGA cable at all. In my case, I just rearranged the equipment. Pete, W1RM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Wayne, That is just where the conversation led. I would not trade my Hakko 808 for solder braid - but there are times when solder braid is the best answer, use whatever will do the best job. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 4:37 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Heil PR20 Microphone
On 9/13/2011 8:17 AM, Dennis Moore wrote: I'm also using the PR20. FP:H, Mic Gain to 31, Cmp to 18, and I consistently get good audio reports rag chewing or DX. Didn't mention, for my front panel connection I'm using the CC-1-K Kenwood cable. You don't mention how you have yours connected. 73, Dennis NJ6G __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 and the KPAK3AUX Cable - lessons learned
Some of the pins in an SVGA cable are cross-connected. It won't work, many have pointed that out, despite which, I tried. For me, the Elecraft KPAK3AUX cable is too long :-) Already wyy too many wires and cables back there coiled up. 'Nother subject: So far, most of the Elecraft model numbering/lettering scheme seems to be working, one can sort of figure out what the gizmo is from it's name. This cable may be testing the limits, since there are several different KPA's, at least two of which are relevant to a K3. EL/XXX-nnn nomenclature next? If you've never served in the US Military, that may not make much sense, but it works for them and they'll buy just about anything. :-) 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org On 9/13/2011 1:58 PM, Peter Chamalian wrote: What I didn't fully digest is that the wiring is incompatible! I thought the difference was merely the removal of a few pins from a standard SVGA cable. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
Windows has a problem doing real-time things, and Delayed Procedure Calls (DPCs) often produce huge latency spikes, resulting in audio pops. Other OSes may have similar problems, and may or may not be called the same thing. If you are using a Windows computer to send Tx audio to your K3 (or any other radio) and you hear occasional pops and crackles in the Tx (or Rx) audio, do a web search on tuning your OS to minimize DPCs. 73, Lyle kK7P Yes, I've always had those same pops on RTTY. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder suckers that you use with your normal iron. There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn. If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters. An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free stock to your junk box. Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next bit of the job. 73 Brendan EI6IZ On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73 Brendan EI6IZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote: Delayed Procedure Calls (DPCs) often produce huge latency spikes = To test for this problem on your system, download the DPC checker at: http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml Note that it takes a lot of latency to cause an audio problem. Well-written drivers and interrupt handlers may cause some latency, but not enough to make an audible click. However, not every piece of software is well-written. For an informative explanation, see the post by aj at: http://forum.cakewalk.com/tm.aspx?m=1935436mpage=2 The instruction .pdf that comes with the latency checker has additional useful info. If you have problems due to DPCs, you can disable drivers, services and programs one by one until you find the culprit. It is a time-honored tradition to fault the operating system for problems caused by non-OS software, and this topic is a rich lode of such misplaced blame. 73, Tony KT0NY -- http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Lyle Johnson k...@wavecable.com wrote: Delayed Procedure Calls (DPCs) often produce huge latency spikes = To test for this problem on your system, download the DPC checker at: http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml Note that it takes a lot of latency to cause an audio problem. Well-written drivers and interrupt handlers may cause some latency, but not enough to make an audible click. However, not every piece of software is well-written. For an informative explanation, see the post by aj at: http://forum.cakewalk.com/tm.aspx?m=1935436mpage=2 The instruction .pdf that comes with the latency checker has additional useful info. If you have problems due to DPCs, you can disable drivers, services and programs one by one until you find the culprit. It is a time-honored tradition to fault the operating system for problems caused by non-OS software, and this topic is a rich lode of such misplaced blame. 73, Tony KT0NY -- http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K3] Computer control a la Agilent?
At work I get to play with really high end Agilent signal generators and spectrum analyzers. So my mind started wandering today. Agilent equipment contain a web server and front panel web page via TCP/IP. What would it do to the price of a K3 to add that kind of processing power and software? Probably too much, but a man can dream. Don NA6Z K3 #5495 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
Tony, What you say is true, but the fact with many ham radio applications is that they were designed to run on Windows 3.1 or Windows 98, and have never been updated to run on later versions of Windows. WinXP *usually* supports those applications, but the game was changed with Vista and Win7. If the applications do not update to abide by the rules of those newer operating systems, problems such as this can occur. Is this an OS problem? or is it an application problem? Sort of a chicken and egg answer. Business applications are quick to make the changes required to keep up with the OS requirements, but many ham radio applications are not upgraded - I guess the authors do not get enough support contributions to make it worth their effort to change things. This is one of the reasons I will stick with WinXP for as long as possible. I have a number of applications, including my preferred backup program that will not run on Vista of Win7. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 7:46 PM, Tony Estep wrote: On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Lyle Johnsonk...@wavecable.com wrote: Delayed Procedure Calls (DPCs) often produce huge latency spikes = To test for this problem on your system, download the DPC checker at: http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml Note that it takes a lot of latency to cause an audio problem. Well-written drivers and interrupt handlers may cause some latency, but not enough to make an audible click. However, not every piece of software is well-written. For an informative explanation, see the post by aj at: http://forum.cakewalk.com/tm.aspx?m=1935436mpage=2 The instruction .pdf that comes with the latency checker has additional useful info. If you have problems due to DPCs, you can disable drivers, services and programs one by one until you find the culprit. It is a time-honored tradition to fault the operating system for problems caused by non-OS software, and this topic is a rich lode of such misplaced blame. 73, Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Computer control a la Agilent?
Don, It will not give you exactly the K3 front panel display, the Ham Radio Deluxe can provide you with the K3 function on either a local PC or on a remote PC. I know you were asking about native K3 support for that capability, but if you want the function right now, try HRD, you might like its capability. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 7:57 PM, Don Putnick wrote: At work I get to play with really high end Agilent signal generators and spectrum analyzers. So my mind started wandering today. Agilent equipment contain a web server and front panel web page via TCP/IP. What would it do to the price of a K3 to add that kind of processing power and software? Probably too much, but a man can dream. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Computer control a la Agilent?
For a bit of perspective, you can buy a webcam with wifi interface that provides a built web server for on the order of $100. So in quantity the additional hardware cost to add it to a K3 would be similar. Add to that software development for the particular web pages to generate. 73 - Mike WA8BXN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy From: ei6iz.bren...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 00:12:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up -- I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder suckers that you use with your normal iron. There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn. If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters. An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free stock to your junk box. Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next bit of the job. 73 Brendan EI6IZ On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73 Brendan EI6IZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 8:02 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: the fact with many ham radio applications is that they were designed to run on Windows 3.1 or Windows 98, and have never been updated ... = Sure, but DPCs may be caused by anything that is running on your machine. The most common offender is a WiFi driver, which has nothing to do with ham software. The issue of weak coding standards in ham software is a different topic, one that I've bemoaned before on this forum. To write real-time software with a GUI requires coding skills that are beyond most hobbyist programmers. Even among the pros there are those who have the requisite advanced knowledge and skills, and those who don't. To experience this firsthand, just plunge yourself into the whirlpool of PSDRs and their associated virtual serial ports and virtual audio cables. Most of it works most of the time, but it's a long way from being consumer-friendly. However, as I said, ham software probably is not related to the pops and clicks that were reported in earlier posts. If they are being caused by DPCs, it's most likely due to something like the virus-checker, the safe-site monitor, the WiFi driver, or other unexpected source. 73, Tony KT0NY -- http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
Tony, I do not disagree with your statements, but as you have alluded to, many ham applications are not written to deal with the requirements of later OS versions - you cited some examples. User be aware! Yes, a properly written application will ride around those interruptions caused by virus checkers and other things going on with the computer maintenance, but others do not, they expect to have full control of the computer if their window is open - unfortunately, that is not within the realm of reality with today's OS - background applications must exist and do their function, whether that be virus checking or the ethernet connection or any of the other computer services that run in the background and we take for granted as just being there. User awareness of this situation is essential - the K3 is probably not to blame for the clicks and pops, it is most likely that the computer that is causing them. If the K3 creates the clicks and pops with no input from the computer, then it is a K3 problem, but it the K3 output is clean with no computer input and there is clicks and pops when the computer is introduced, the clicks and pops are being generated in the computer audio stream - nothing that the K3 (or any other transceiver) can do about it.. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 8:14 PM, Tony Estep wrote: Sure, but DPCs may be caused by anything that is running on your machine. The most common offender is a WiFi driver, which has nothing to do with ham software. The issue of weak coding standards in ham software is a different topic, one that I've bemoaned before on this forum. To write real-time software with a GUI requires coding skills that are beyond most hobbyist programmers. Even among the pros there are those who have the requisite advanced knowledge and skills, and those who don't. To experience this firsthand, just plunge yourself into the whirlpool of PSDRs and their associated virtual serial ports and virtual audio cables. Most of it works most of the time, but it's a long way from being consumer-friendly. However, as I said, ham software probably is not related to the pops and clicks that were reported in earlier posts. If they are being caused by DPCs, it's most likely due to something like the virus-checker, the safe-site monitor, the WiFi driver, or other unexpected source. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K3] - Data mode TX problem from VK7JB
On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 8:54 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: ...a properly written application will ride around those interruptions caused by virus checkers and other things === No, it won't. It can't. The DPC takes control and that's that. See the explanation of what a DPC is and how it works on the link I posted. Tony KT0NY -- http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for me. A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong side of a part built K2 RF board. The board was returned to its owner with the same right angled connector soldered on the correct side, allowing construction to continue and to the best of my knowledge, that K2 continues in good health to this day. That was also a mighty tribute to the quality of PCB material that Elecraft specify. Thanks, E. I find that the application of sufficient heat holds the key to a good suck. Sufficient heat is needed to melt the solder on the joint side, through the PTH and on to melt any solder that's gone through to the component side. There's a fine dividing line between sufficient heat and a barbecue, which boils down to experience, lots of practice and is often blessed with a wee bit of luck. I'm currently fitting a K6XX board (thanks, Ron) to a K1 and I didn't like the location shown in the instructions. By moving RP1 and R6 to the other side of the front panel board, a large area is created for the K6XX. There's always a but and in this case, it's the need to separate the front panel PCB from the front panel itself to adjust the detector's audio pitch, but then, it should only need doing once G I have a full size Edsyn Soldapult but find it too big for most requirements, however, Edsyn have a closeout offer on page 7 of their clearance items for a PT509 tool at just $6.99. http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclearpg=7 pg=7 There has to be a catch and it's a $25 minimum order, but if two or three friends combine orders, together with a couple of spare tips on offer at $1.50 each and maybe an O ring or two, that sum is all too easily exceeded. Don't expect Elecraft service from Edsyn. I placed an (overseas) order with them and had to chase it. I tried telephoning, but my North of England-tuned hearing couldn't understand what they were saying. Suffice it to say, the order eventually arrived and I was more than pleased with the smaller device. Chipquik has been mentiond before, but are worthy of another mention, as the Company offer a free sample, which is not to be passed up. Although they focus on SMT technology, there's no reason it can't be used to aid removal of a stubborn pin or two in a multipin device. http://www.chipquik.com/ Much has been said lately about clearing plated through holes as part of a re-work. I find that feeding a bit more fresh solder into a PTH until it is full and then using the solder sucker usually clears the hole extremely well and requires no additional tools. I find solder braid to be a waste of time when clearing holes, but I do use it, after cleaning barbecued flux residue away, to clear solder from flat surfaces, so pads are returned to flatness. If you have a flux pen, run the pen tip over both sides of the unused wick before use. It helps it work even better. 73 Dave G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Test
Test __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Couldn't afford the vacuum kit I wanted, so I built a low end wantabe tool for my desoldering tasks. I have combined a Radio Shack 45-Watt Desoldering Iron https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 and one of Radio Shack's (popper styled) Vacuum Desoldering Tool https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745 I removed the, IMO, useless rubber bulb on the Desoldering Iron and attached a short piece of tubing between where the bulb was removed and the tip of the 'popper' desoldering tool. this way I can apply heat to the location then hit the popper's release hopefully sucking up (most of) the solder residue sometimes I even using the popper as a blower to clear some of the offending solder hold the iron tip in place and push the popper down as though you were going to cock it, but don't complete the stroke to where it catches it's hold position just be sure you don't blow the solder onto another part of a board where you have to remove the mess you just made, don't ask how I know this... Sometimes I have also use the stainless needles as a last resort but be sure the needle is small enough to pass all the way through the hole again with the how do I know this bit. I used a needle a little to fat for the hole and ended up pushing the through hole, through the pcb hole, duh. ymmv GB 73 K5OAI Sam Morgan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Soldapulit sells an especially marked ESD Safe unit (Mfgr p/n SS750LS). It isn't expensive - somewhere between 9 and 11 USD. Dale is quite right. ESD safety is always something to check on with anything that is brought into contact with modern gear. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [OT] EA4TX Rotor Interface schematic
My EA4TX rotor interface died. Does anyone have a copy of a schematic or know where to download one. I have looked on the EA4TX website and Google. No joy. This tracking of the moon using manual rotor control is getting old ! Many thanks, John Brannon W4RBO K3 (2836) / P3 / XV-144 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] (no subject)
http://shopbeauty.pp.ua/images/stories/blog.php?html120 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
