[Drakelist] equipment brochures
I have original manufacturers brochures for the following: Drake TR-7 Collins KWM-380 Collins 75A1 Collins 75A3 Collins 32V2 2 Collins SSB Amateur Equipment flyers of that era. Misc Henry Radio (Butler, Mo) new and used price lists from the 80's (all in new condition) $20.00 for mailing and handling. Rick Tucker W0RT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Log Books
I have two original and one reproduction R.L. Drake logbook. All in excellent, unused condition. I would sell all three for $25.00 plus shipping. Rick Tucker W0RT --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] A BIG THANK YOU!
How about sharing those copies with others. The best way to do that is reply to the list when you supply an answer. Please pass the information on. Thanks. Dick KC9UB On 2/29/2016 4:12 PM, Tim English wrote: *Would like to say a BIG public thank you to all who replied with copies of preselector overlays for my "C" line and FS-4. You guys are FB! Thanks a million.* *-- Tim, K8TJ * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 45, Issue 3
Hey Gary, Rob Sherwood at Sherwood Engineering has both covers…… http://www.sherweng.com/ham.html#ssb http://www.sherweng.com/ham.html#ssb Rick W9WS On Jun 15, 2015, at 10:04 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. covers (Gary Thostenson) 2. Re: covers (DW Harms PA2DW) 3. L75 filament (DW Harms PA2DW) 4. TR-3 S/N 6271A (k7...@comcast.net) 5. COVERS (w4...@aol.com) 6. Question (Gary Thostenson) 7. crystal cailbrator (Gary Thostenson) -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 14:11:01 -0500 From: Gary Thostenson badgers9...@centurytel.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] covers Message-ID: C819EC28265549EFA9D0E25FB8294EA1@wisconsin Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hello: Is anyone out there parting out a Drake R-4C receiver? If you are I'm in need of the filter and crystal covers. If you have them please let me know. Thanks very much. Gary W9VS badgers9...@centurytel.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20150614/58790bd1/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 21:23:14 +0200 From: DW Harms PA2DW q...@kpnmail.nl To: 'Gary Thostenson' badgers9...@centurytel.net, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] covers Message-ID: 003001d0a6d7$8f8c7230$aea55690$@kpnmail.nl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Gary, I would have a good working R4C VFO if you need one. If you don't, but anyone else reading this message does: feel free to contact me. Best 73, Dick PA2DW Van: Drakelist [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] Namens Gary Thostenson Verzonden: zondag 14 juni 2015 21:11 Aan: drakelist@zerobeat.net Onderwerp: [Drakelist] covers Hello: Is anyone out there parting out a Drake R-4C receiver? If you are I'm in need of the filter and crystal covers. If you have them please let me know. Thanks very much. Gary W9VS badgers9...@centurytel.net _ https://www.avast.com/antivirus Avast logo This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. www.avast.com https://www.avast.com/antivirus -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20150614/488f66d7/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 3 Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 21:28:47 +0200 From: DW Harms PA2DW q...@kpnmail.nl To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] L75 filament Message-ID: 003501d0a6d8$55bfe310$013fa930$@kpnmail.nl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Drakelist de PA2DW, Let me share a curious fault in my L75 with you, maybe it helps others. The problem started with random 100-200 mA platecurrent in standby position and a negative gridcurrent. I knew to look for the bias voltage, which turned to be 0,7 Volt instead of 75 during bad moments. In the end it appeared that one of the ceramic capacitors that go from the filament to ground (on the cold end of the big choke) had an internal flashover. It even made a small hole in the cap, so that I could look through it hi! After exchanging them, the amp worked fine again. Best regards, Dick PA2DW -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20150614/00d28080/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 4 Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 20:08:34 + (UTC) From: k7...@comcast.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3 S/N 6271A Message-ID: 299823668.27424477.1434312514908.javamail.zim...@comcast.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Am contemplating on purchasing this TR-3, w/ AC-3 and RV-3, but the A in the TR-3 serial number has me puzzled. Awaiting your comments. Thank you joe k7mks -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20150614/39fc4efd/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 5 Date: Sun, 14
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 42, Issue 8
you can always just double it up…we did it all the time back in the studio to intensify the color…down side was you lose about one F stop of light output : ) Rick W9WS On Mar 16, 2015, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Source for Drake dial blue filter material (Rob Hinz) 2. Re: Source for Drake dial blue filter material (Jim Shorney) 3. Re: Source for Drake dial blue filter material (Chris Farley) 4. Looking for Tubes? (Gary Thostenson) 5. Drake 7 Line gray plastic end finishing pieces for front panels (Bruce Felder) -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2015 09:56:26 -1000 From: Rob Hinz robh...@kahaone.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Source for Drake dial blue filter material Message-ID: 958DAE05B7FA41D7A2E2D0753A26F405@Laboratory Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Does anyone know of a source for the blue filter material for the Drake dials and meters? I see that Mike Sever, KG9BV, was supplying these at one time, but I have been unable to reach him by email or telephone after several attempts. I hope he is ok. Thanks! Rob - KH6NX -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20150315/84d6f937/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2015 15:42:10 -0500 From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Source for Drake dial blue filter material Message-ID: 20150315204219.2523c20b...@mail01.inebraska.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Conventional wisdom is that Lee #172 Lagoon Blue theatrical gel is a very close match. A few bucks for a sheet at a theater supply house or on eBay will net you a lifetime supply. Dave, KD2E, has provided information to the effect that Roscolene #853 is the ORIGINAL Drake filter material. You can see both colors together here: http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/blue.html 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 09:56:26 -1000, Rob Hinz wrote: Does anyone know of a source for the blue filter material for the Drake dials and meters? I see that Mike Sever, KG9BV, was supplying these at one time, but I have been unable to reach him by email or telephone after several attempts. I hope he is ok. Thanks! Rob - KH6NX -- ?There?s something out of place ? let?s go and poke it with a stick.? ? The Doctor, Amy?s Choice -- Message: 3 Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2015 17:08:33 -0500 From: Chris Farley kc9...@yahoo.com To: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Source for Drake dial blue filter material Message-ID: wuxkb6lpxwbtqdomqmako09c.1426457313...@email.android.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Has anybody on the list purchased the Roscolene #853, and can measure the thickness with a caliper or micrometer? ? The #172 stuff is a bit thinner than the original stuff, it would be nice to know if this stuff is any thicker.? Regards,?Chris kc9ieq Sent from my SMRTphone Original message From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com Date: 03/15/2015 3:42 PM (GMT-06:00) To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Source for Drake dial blue filter material Conventional wisdom is that Lee #172 Lagoon Blue theatrical gel is a very close match. A few bucks for a sheet at a theater supply house or on eBay will net you a lifetime supply. Dave, KD2E, has provided information to the effect that Roscolene #853 is the ORIGINAL Drake filter material. You can see both colors together here: http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/blue.html 73 -Jim NU0C On Sun, 15 Mar 2015 09:56:26 -1000, Rob Hinz wrote: Does anyone know of a source for the blue filter material for the Drake dials and meters? I see that Mike Sever, KG9BV, was supplying these at one time, but I have been unable to reach him by email or telephone after several attempts. I hope he is ok. Thanks! Rob - KH6NX -- ?There?s something out of place ? let?s go and poke it with a stick.? ? The Doctor, Amy?s Choice ___ Drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Logs
I have an original R.L. Drake logbook from back in the day. Excellent, as new condition. Also two of the reproductions purchased from Joseph Roth in 2007. Asking $25.00 plus few dollars for postage for all. Rick Tucker W0RT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R4B 5595 kHz oscillator/mixer
- Original Message - From: Charles Bostian bost...@vt.edu To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, November 14, 2014 1:58 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Drake R4B 5595 kHz oscillator/mixer I am trying to bring my old R4B/T4XB combination back to life after about 35 years of non-use. The 5595 kHz oscillator part of the second mixer 12BE6 circuit does not oscillate. I have tried several tubes with no effect. As far as I can determine, the tube is functioning normally and I can make the receiver work (after a fashion) by injecting a 5595 kHz signal from an external source. Before I take out/test/replace the handfull of Rs and Cs and also look for a replacement xtal, I am wondering if anyone on the list has had a similar problem. In particular, can you recommend a source for a replacement xtal? Thanks! Charles W4KEP It may well be the crystal. Replacements can be obtained from International Crystal. I've bought many crystals from them and all were perfect. They know the parameters for Drake crystals. You might want to post also to the other drake list at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DrakeRadio/ It seems to me this is a fairly common problem. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] RCS 4 switces
I sold the RCS 4 switches. Thank you. Rick W0RT___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] RCS-4 antenna switch
I have two Drake RCS-4 switch units and three control heads for sale. One was originally purchased by me in the late 70's and may have a bad component in the control head. One control head and switch checked out okay a few years ago but I am selling all as is. I used the one I bought for at least 30 years and it was an excellent product. You mount the switch at the tower and run one coax and an 8 conductor cable (such as rotor cable) to it and it will switch 5 antennas and handle a KW. I have the manual and schematic. Asking $125.00 plus $25.00 shipping in lower 48. Rick, W0RT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Test, is the list still alive
No messages for a couple of weeks so testing. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Audio Hum Question
Evidently I didn't send my reply to the list. 1, I have used the Heathkit Shop rebuild kit with success and have to AC4s with them. Not hard to install. 2, I do not have the Hayseed Hamfest kit but have bought lots of other capacitors from Tom and am very satisfied. 3, I mentioned a third kit but couldn't remember details. Its at: http://harbachelectronics.com/product-category/drake/ I have no experience with this but its gotten good reviews on the Drake lists. Also Harbach is a reputable firm. I will reiterate the warning about the bias supply. If it fails the tubes burn up. They have become quite expensive. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com - Original Message - From: choward...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2014 6:36 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 Audio Hum Question Thanks to Gary and John for their response to my audio hum question. I plan to accomplish the easy one first; cleaning the pins on the AC-4 power plug. If that does not work, I will go to #2: re-cap the power supply. In fact, I may that in any case. But, I would like some advice. I am 74 years old and the only real electronic work I have done was to build a Viking Adventurer transmitter when I was 14. It worked the first time. I have found 2 different products for the AC-4. The first is from Hayseed Hamfest. It is a kit that replaces all five electrolytic capacitors with new ones. It is $72.00. The second is from The Heathkit Shop. The Drake AC-4R kit includes a new PCB that replaces the old Caps and diodes. Only the transformer and the bias adjusting pot from the old power supply are used. It also requires a voltmeter capable of 1000 volts to be used in the testing. My question is to anyone who has knowledge of these products and which they recommend for someone with limited electronic skills. As usual, Thanks for any help you folks can provide. You have helped in a couple of previous situations, which turned out just as you suggested. Howard - N0KOE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] test
Rick, W0RT, --C-Line, R4A/T4XC, MN-2700, RCS-4--testing___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Tweak my Peak....
- Original Message - From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2014 10:40 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Tweak my Peak OK, My opinion: Best practice is to operate at a lever *just below* where the ALC light starts to flicker. This gives you the cleanest signal. It's easier to do if you can use the clipping action of a good RF speech processor, such as the SP-7 or equivalent, to limit your peaks. Otherwise it's probably OK to adjust so the ALC just flickers occasionally. Too much ALC will increase the IMD of your signal. See: http://www.sm5bsz.com/dynrange/alc.htm On CW, definitely operate below the ALC level. The quality of the tranmsit signal starts to degrade when you go into ALC. 73 -Jim NU0C The link above makes some good points but also makes a couple of statements I must disagree with. One is that two-tone testing is meaningless on transceivers. Well, it has exactly the same significance it does with straight transmitters, namely it is a measure of the linearity of the amplifier given certain limits. The purpose of an ALC or AVC in a transmitter is to prevent the drive signal from becoming large enough to cause distortion in the amplifier. The author is right that it should not be used to take the place of an audio processor. There is a very great deal of valid scientific and technical material on speech characteristics in the literature. The importance of understanding the transmission of speech under less than favorable conditions has been studied by, for instance, ATT though Bell Labs for many decades and has received more study by the military. A few decades ago it was shown the infinite peak clipping when used with proper filtering (differentiation- clipping- integration) would result in speech which was still intelligible under favorable (no noise) conditions and had much better intelligibility under noisy conditions. The Russians did tests of filtered and limited speech that showed that intelligibility was maintained even when the speech was so modified that the speaker could not be identified. The idea is that systems like our SSB transmitters are power limited and rely on noisy channels, at least most of the time. The nature of speech is that most of the power is concentrated in low frequencies that do not contribute to intelligence and the ratio of peak to average power is very large (on the order of 10 to 15 db, some tests show more). So, when transmitted without modification the average power in a system is very low compared to the power the system is capable of. So, we find the wide use of microphones or filters that roll off the bass and peak up the treble and filters to limit the total bandwidth along with various mechanisms to try to reduce the ratio of peak to average power. These can make an enormous difference in the readability (intelligibility) of a voice signal in practice where it is transmitted over a power-limited and noisy channel. Effective processing is not trivial since the processing itself can generate spurious signals, as the article cited points out. Also, if processing is done improperly the intelligibility can be destroyed. For instance, in the paper on infinite peak clipping the reverse filtering was tried. That is integration followed by clipping followed by differention, the results were awful. The filters for differentiation and integration are simple RC 6db/octave filters, not anything exotic. Note that any kind of processing is, by definition, distortion and is audible. Some distortion is useful some is to be avoided. In any case, the ALC or AVC in a transmitter of whatever kind should be used only to prevent occasional excursions beyond the linear range of the amplifier and some external processor used for real increase in average power and intelligibility. If at all possible listen to your own signal on an independent receiver for both quality and spurious signals. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Distortion of T-4XB SSB
- Original Message - From: Bill Ellis wb9...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist (Post) drakelist@zerobeat.net; drakera...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 10:45 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Distortion of T-4XB SSB Went to check into a SSB net yesterday and I was told my audio was distorted. What could be the problem. I've never used SSB before Thanks and 73's . Bill, WB9CAC It could be a lot of things. Without more detail about the nature of the distortion its hard to tell. You may be able to monitor your signals on your own receiver. Listen on headphones and see what you are getting. Also, do you have an oscilloscope capable of working at the transmitted frequency? If so the wave form can tell you a lot. Post more detail and we will analyze the problem. Also, get more signal reports, maybe the fellow complaining has a bad receiver. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4CW Etc.
- Original Message - From: k7...@comcast.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 11:49 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4CW Etc. My TR-4C manual shows V6 and V7 without tube shields and yet the sockets have the provision for shields. To shield or not to shield - that is the question. I use a 3 1/2 12VDC fan affixed to the rear of the final cage to help with cooling. Thanks for comments. Joe k7mks The short section of shield around the tube base is often enough by itself so some designers use it alone. Adding a full shield does not improve things and causes the tube to run hot. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Checking the list
Haven't gotten anything for a week, is the list still alive? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Checking the list
- Original Message - From: w4...@aol.com To: kc6...@gmail.com; 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 2:16 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Checking the list Same here. Not much traffic though. 73, John, W4AWM Thank you all. I've had experience in the recent past of being blocked by a third party spam blocker and as a result having to re-subscribe to a couple of lists using my ARRL account so I thought I would check. Anyway, Happy Hollidays to all and thanks for the companionship. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Checking the list
- Original Message - From: w4...@aol.com To: k9...@aol.com; 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Checking the list Antenna work..in this? I Don't think so! 73, John, W4AWM I was born in Detroit and spent a lot of time in rural Michigan. When I was a kid snow was FUN! That's because I didn't have to shovel it. The scene below is _beautiful_ but its about 80F here and I think I will stay. Keep those sleet melters working. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Checking the List or Boy are the bands dead
- Original Message - From: Thom LaCosta tlch...@tlchost.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 4:26 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Checking the List or Boy are the bands dead Remember tuning around the bands, hearing nothing and assuming the bands are dead? The list is like that if no one posts, you won't see anything at all. For What's it worththe spammers send over 100 messages a day to the listbut, since it's a closed list, their messages never make it through. Hope everyone has a very Merry ChristmasI'm politically incorrect enough to post that. 73, Thom k3hrn Speaking of which, there was a contest on 10 meters on the weekend. Amazing! I was listening mostly on an RCA AR-88 and a sort of indoor antenna run over the rafters of the wooden garage where I have my shack. Among other places I heard loud signals from central Russia and Cape Verde. Lots of stations from all over the U.S. About a million years ago, when I was a kid I had a 40 meter dipole up and listened on a Hallicrafters S-38B, not your most sensitive HF receiver. I could hear the world on that thing. 10 is probably open a lot of the time but no one is listening. There are a couple of beacon stations on 10 and I do check to see if I can hear them. I did fire up the Drake station (R4B and T4XB and better antenna than is on the AR-88) but I am not a contester so didn't try to work anybody. FWIW, the AR-88 was recently restored by moi and will hear anything the R4B will. Its quite amazing but the R4B still has better selectivity. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Maybe this works?
- Original Message - From: Nigel Gunn, W8IFF/G8IFF ni...@ngunn.net To: Thom LaCosta k3...@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 6:04 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Maybe this works? The list never went anywhere. I've not seen any problem. Sent from my NOOK Thom LaCosta k3...@zerobeat.net wrote: Perhaps the lists is back up again? 73 thom k3hrn There were no posts for a time. When I went to the web site I got a page telling me that Apache software had been installed in place of mailman but no pointer to the list. I also wrote you asking what had happened and got a bounce. So, whatever happened, I am glad the list is back. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Test message
Another test message. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Test message
- Original Message - From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 7:22 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Test message Another test message. I got a message from Thom La Costa, the owner of this list, that messages from it to Netcom were being blocked by some blacklist somewhere. In fact, I had not been getting messages for some time. I re-subscribed using my account at the ARRL reflector. This seems to be working and also worked for another list that had the same problem. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] A test message
A test to see if I am resubscribed. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR-4
Welcome home Howard. Sounds like (pardon the pun) bad filter caps in your AC4 pwr supply. I assume they’re original, so 40 plus years old, but simple fix. Rick W9WS I have just put myself on the air after a 15 year absence, I am using the Drake TR-4 that I had in Colorado 15 years ago. It was perfect then. However, I just worked the November SS Contest and got 3 or 4 contacts who said that I had a hum. I am not very technical (and at 74 yo not sure I will ever be!!) Anyone have an idea what could cause the hum? Thanks Howard Campbell N0KOE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20131117/bc1d3c80/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 65, Issue 1 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B load capacitor
- Original Message - From: Roger Smith kc6...@earthlink.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 1:38 PM Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B load capacitor I acquired the L-4B from ebay. It is in overall good condition but the load variable capacitor does not have enough shaft friction to hold the plates in position. There appears to be an adjustment screw on the back of the capacitor but there is no easy way to access the screw. Does anyone know a way to adjust the shaft friction of this capacitor without pulling the load capacitor and the fan? Thanks for the help Check to see if there is any end play in the rotor shaft. If there is you will have to adjust the bearing. If the rotor has no play and seems reasonably well centered look at how its connected. Most rotors use some sort of brush contact. This may introduce some friction. If its got oil or grease on it cleaning may increase the holding friction a bit. Otherwise I agree about using felt washers under the knob. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 AM Mode Receive Distortion...
- Original Message - From: Bill V wviga...@cox.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, October 18, 2013 8:52 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 AM Mode Receive Distortion... Hi all! I have an early (16k ser. #) TR-4. I’ve done all the usual maintenance and it works great in SSB mode. The issue is distorted AM Mode Only Receive audio. It’s the same on either filter and not effected by signal strength. The AC-4 voltages are free of ac. There’s no hum and V2 (12AV6) is good (swap made no difference). Any thoughts? Thanks and 73! Bill V. Just to clarify (no pun intended) you are getting distortion on received AM signals but not on SSB? Have you access to an oscilloscope? -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 AM Mode Receive Distortion...
- Original Message - From: Bill V wviga...@cox.net To: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2013 11:22 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 AM Mode Receive Distortion... Hi Richard, Your facts are undistorted... and I do have a scope. Thanks and 73! Bill V. I have not had to deal with this problem in my TR-4 but the fact that it affects only AM is a good clue for isolating it. It eliminates the AF amplifier and leaves pretty much the detector circuit. The detector is also the first audio stage so the tube is suspect. I find it difficult to trace circuits in Drake schematics (and others too). I find it helpful to have a couple of large scale prints made of the schematics and trace out the circuits of interest with colored pencil or highlighters. That way you can see what is going on at the switches. Drake mostly used good quality plastic film caps so they are not so often the cause of trouble but even plastic and ceramic caps can go bad. I would also do the usual voodoo for older equipment, namely to work all the screws that may carry ground and very thoroughly clean the switch contacts. Its surprising how much trouble these two things can cure. Also clean the tube pins and sockets. May not help with this but poor contact at tube pins is responsible for a lot of mysterious problems. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 64, Issue 5
- Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@triad.rr.com To: Rich Jones michjone...@yahoo.com; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, October 11, 2013 4:31 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 64, Issue 5 He replaced the tube. I just fixed a T-4XC that exhibited a cold or broken solder joint this month, in 2013. Joint was soldered in 1977. Not quite the old House, MD maxim of it never being Lupus. If swapping the tube brings no resolution, check all the connections. That means both tube socket and all solder joints. Still good maxims to live by. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I have found bad solder joints from the factory many times in all sorts of equipment. I've found joints where the wire was wrapped but never soldered in both Drake and General Radio equipment. Joints like that can run along for decades before they degrade enough to cause trouble. Its always worth poking at the wiring with an insulated stick when nothing else works. I usually use a wooden chop-stick. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB tune problem
- Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@triad.rr.com To: Peter Ravn fas...@privat.dk; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:36 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB tune problem Peter, you are probably outputting the IF frequency 5645 kHz (the carrier oscillator). That explains the strange setting of the RF TUNE and the high SWR on an 80m antenna. It could be that your band oscillator is not working. Do you get normal output on other bands? Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I think if there is any suspicion that this is happening it would be helpful to load the transmitter into a dummy load and use a general coverage receiver to see what is coming out. The load or the transmitter will leak enough signal to hear it. The receiver does not have to be anything special as long as you can get an approximate indication of where the output is. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MS-4 Speaker
- Original Message - From: Bob Loving bob.lov...@sbcglobal.net To: K9sqg k9...@aol.com Cc: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 9:43 AM Subject: [Drakelist] MS-4 Speaker Evan, what thickness of the acoustic foam did you use? Is it placed directly in back of the speaker but not touching? Is the foam available at RadioShack and the like? Thank you. Bob k9JU The difference between acoustic foam and ordinary foam is that the acoustic stuff is porous. Ordinary foam will just block the sound without absorbing it. For enclosed cabinets Fiberglas is superior to foam but for open back boxes foam is less hazardous. Many small speaker boxes of the sort made for communications receivers are made of thin material that can produce spurious resonances. One cure for this is to use a damping material on the insides. Automobile undercoat works fairly well. Long ago you could buy acoustic damping paint from Altec-Lansing, who coated their high frequency horns with it but it was expensive and I don't know if anyone makes it any more. The purpose of filling the cavity with an absorbent like foam or Fiberglas is to absorb the standing waves and reduce the resonance cause by the open pipe effect of the cabinet. In small, sealed, cabinets the absorbent changes the acoustic impedance of the box lowering the resonance frequency plus also reducing resonances caused by standing waves due to reflection from the sides of the box. Some of the small speakers used in these receivers will astonish you if put into larger, well made, boxes or even just a large flat baffle. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Loudspeaker cabinet treatment
I changed the subject on this because my first one was rejected by Spamcannible. Just to clarify, the coating does NOT lower the resonance of the speaker. What it does is to damp out any vibration of the panels of the enclosure. If undamped thin metal panels can resonate quite audibly. Even wood can be resonant but is much less likely to be. While no one expects hi-fi performance from these speakers miscellaneous resonances can mask both voice and CW especially if there is noise present. An open box enclosure acts like a tube with the speaker in one end. There will be a strong resonance at the frequency where the length of the tube is 1/4 wavelength and at other harmonically related frequencies. The only way to eliminate this is to close the box but that will raise the resonant frequency of the speaker because the air trapped in the box acts like a spring. Adding an absorbent, like fiberglas, to the box, will reduce the effect of this stiffness and so reduce the amount of rise in resonance, but not a lot. Many years ago Edgar Vilchur began to use this idea to make loudspeaker systems capable of radiating low frequencies despite being small. The principle was to use a speaker which relied on the internal stiffness of a small enclosure to act as part of the restoring force on the cone. As a result he was able to make speakers with low fundamental resonance in a small box. The compromise for this was a loss of efficiency. The efficiency of a speaker, like that of an antenna, depends on matching the radiation impedance of the air. Air has an inherent acoustical impedance. This varies with air density but is fairly constant. Where the cone or radiating area of the speaker is too small it behaves in the same way as a short antenna, that is the radiation resistance falls and it becomes reactive. For a direct radiator (as opposed to a horn, etc.) the minimum size for decent match is where the circumference of the speaker is about one wavelength. Below this the radiation falls off rather rapidly. Add to this that there is interference from the radiation from the back of the speaker and you get very little low frequency output from a speaker just in air. The purpose of the enclosure is mostly to eliminate the back wave. The response is then a function of the size of the cone and its fundamental resonance. The resonance of the cone causes a boost in the low frequency response over a narrow band and is used to compensate for the fall off due to the cone being small. The relative size of this resonant peak in relation to the radiation level of the cone at higher frequencies, where it becomes more efficient, is related to the speaker efficiency. The more efficient it is the less boost can be gotten from the cone resonance at a given frequency. As a result very efficient speakers tend to be deficient in bass when in plain baffles or completely enclosed boxes. Speakers like the AR of Vilchur were made deliberately inefficient at mid-range frequencies in order to obtain a flatter response down to lower frequencies. Where high efficiency is desired at low frequencies one must multiply the cone area in some way. One way is to use a multiplicity of small speakers mounted closely enough to be coupled acoustically and act as a single radiator. Another way is to use a horn. The horn is the exact acoustical analogue of an electrical transformer. Horns have inherently wide bandwidth and can extend efficient operation down to fairly low frequencies. But, here again, size matters and the mouth of the horn must approximate the size of an efficient direct radiator to work well. Where the acceptable size of a horn is limited various schemes have been devised to use parts of a room, such as the corners, as an extension. The famous Klipsch Horn is an example. Since amplifier power is now much more economical than it was some sixty or seventy years ago the use of horn speakers has become much less popular since good low frequency response can be gotten from arrays of smaller cones. The direct radiator has some advantages since horns often tend to have spurious resonances of their own. Another method of extending the low frequency response of a small speaker is to use an acoustical impedance matching network on one side, usually the back. This is most often in the form of a bass reflex enclosure. The bass-reflex is the acoustical equivalent of a L or Pi network impedance matching network. One can also use a 1/4 wave transmission line in back of the speaker to obtain an impedance match over a narrow range. Enclosures of this type are called acoustical labyrinth or sometimes just transmission line boxes. They are the exact equivalent of the bass-reflex but using distributed constants instead of lumped constants. Both act in exactly the same way as an electrical transmission line or impedance matching network does. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2-C noise blanker
- Original Message - From: Eric Webner k4fan.hamra...@gmail.com To: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com Cc: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2-C noise blanker Charles, A large part of it depends on whether your 2-C suffers from the type of noise (pulse type) that the noise blanker can help with. I have bad power line noise at my QTH that a blanker won't touch. 73, Eric Webner K4FAN The DStar FAN Club On Apr 15, 2013 3:04 PM, Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com wrote: Is a schematic and parts list available for the 2NB? Any possibility of duplicating it? How well does it work, in other words would it be worth the effort? . 73 de W3NU Same here. I thought for a long time that the noise blanker in my R4B didn't work. I tested it with a pulse generator consisting of three 9 volt batteries in series, a bug, and a 4 Hy choke. The blanker does not exactly remove the pulses but knocks the effect on the AVC down by at least 20db. Its completely ineffective on power line noise such as the hash from compact fluorescent lamps or defective streetlights. A plain series clipper works to some extent on those but is usually at the end of the IF chain, that is at the detector, so does not prevent the noise from actuating the AVC and desensitizing the receiver. At one time ignition noise was a real problem and may still be for mobile operation, but I never hear it at my house. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B Resistor Value
- Original Message - From: GALE STEWARD k...@yahoo.com To: Drake Reflector drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 10:43 AM Subject: [Drakelist] R4B Resistor Value I picked my first B-line yesterday from it's original owner. Was very dusty but otherwise in fine condition. In checking out the R4B I found a charred resistor. I ordered Garey's B-line CD but haven't received it yet and this resistor was cooked and I couldn't get the resistance value. This resistor feeds DC to the red wire of the audio output transformer. The first color band is orange and the others are cooked black. BTW, I did not get any manuals or schematics with this equipment. If I can get a resistance value, I can replace this part. Everything else in there looks good. Any info appreciated... 73, Stew K3ND If its in series with the transformer primary its R-43 330 ohms Charred is a bad sign. I suggest checking C-90D, the 100 uf decoupling capacitor which goes from the junction of this resistor and the transformer to ground. If its shorted it will take out the resistor. This is part of a 4 section can capacitor. If this section is shorted I would change the entire capacitor. While you can use individual units you can get an exact replacement from http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/ -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB
- Original Message - From: Jobe Beckley Jr. jobe.beck...@comcast.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 7:49 PM Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB My T-4XB is keying in side band as if it was in am. Checked the 12AX7 it checks good. Any ideas. Jobe Beckley Jr. WD4KVM I'm not sure I understand what you mean, can you give a more detailed description of what is happening. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR4 V2 Can removable!
- Original Message - From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 2:08 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR4 V2 Can removable! I know it must sound like a silly question but how do I, safely, remove the rectangular can so I can try replacing V2 on my TR4? No trouble with the circular cans on some other tubes but this can appears to have two clips and I cannot see how they work and do not want to do any damage. The can is as firm as a rock. I cannot move it at all. Thanks for any advice. Damien G3XER V2 is not normally in a shield. Someone may have put one on. I found I was getting a feedback unless I shielded V2. I used a push-on shield I happened to have. It makes good contact with the end of a sheet metal screw that sticks up in just the right place. It sounds as though someone has installed a can of the type used on the IF and RF coils. Those are removed by squeezing the tabs on the sides with a pliers and working them off. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC4R Rebuild Question
- Original Message - From: Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 3:29 PM Subject: [Drakelist] AC4R Rebuild Question All, Just finished the AC-4 rebuild kit from the Heathkit Shop. I measured the voltages when I finished and obtained 655, 266 (should be 290?), and -70.Is this typical for unloaded voltages or did I mis-wire something ? Thanks, Gene K1NR I made some notes after my Heathkit Shop AC-4 rebuild and have checked them against a second AC-4 with the kit installed. Speced voltage at orange wire = 650 to 750 VDC; measured 685 V (another note says 694V) Yellow wire spec at least 290V, measured 277 and 280V I no longer remember why I got two different voltages but they may have been line voltage variations Also noted, HV = 677V with transmitter connected but not tuned up. Low voltage 250 to 260 V connected. These were measured with a 10 megohm input electronic voltmeter. I have these supplies on a T4-XB and a TR-4 both of which put out rated power. The high voltage drops quite a bit when they are drawing full rated current, no more than about 650V. I did not note the ripple level but at full current my memory is that its fairly substantial but I don't remember exactly how much. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB won't do CW
- Original Message - From: Roger Smith kc6...@earthlink.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 12:06 AM Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB won't do CW I have matching R-4B and T-4XB. Both were fully functional until I moved them to a new location in the shack. Now I can't get CW to work. I have checked all the cable connections and the straight key I am using. The cables are correct and the key works in another radio. I rechecked the vox and delay settings and they are in the correct positions. Tuning and SSB work with full power output. What is the next step I should take to troubleshoot this problem? Can this be caused by a bad tube? I haven't re-grounded the twins since the move. Could that be a problem? Thanks for the help, Roger First thing is to take the case off and reseat all the tubes. I would clean the tube pins and sockets with Deoxit and a small brush. I've had this happen, don't remember exactly which tube caused it but even just wiggling the tubes in their sockets will sometimes fix it. The other voodoo is working the screws to make sure they make good chassis contact but I suspect the tubes. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake L7E Low Power Out
I sold my L7 to another ham and he has sent me the following. I see very low RF output. Here are some numbers: plate volts 1900 idle plate current 180ma 30 watts input RF 60 watts output to 50 ohm resistive load (dummy load) plate current 440ma grid current 120ma I see little or no dip in plate current with plate control - all bands same effect. I checked the tube hardware, cleaned the output relay etc., there is no arcing, popping or gassy look on the tubes. The tube plates do show color on key down...I did let them warm up for several hours. I have gotten more output by increasing the drive but not over 160 watts out...don't want to hurt anything by pushing it. Any help would be appreciated Have a good new year Thanks NN6U___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 54, Issue 16
Very nice man cave Rich..TNX fer sharing Rick W9WS On Dec 17, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Twinning with TR (Bill skidmore) 2. L-75 Output Band Switch (Gordon) 3. Pics of New Operating Desk (Rich Hallman - N7TR) -- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 15:04:15 -0500 From: Bill skidmore sxc...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Twinning with TR Message-ID: cacgmoxqrvepz9sxn6iufdut-ykft5ub661cr7lipvgecpbr...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Anyone have any experience twinning a TR3 with one of the R4 line receivers? Can it be done? Thanks! Bill, VE3 AUI -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20121216/330b0efc/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2012 13:41:19 -0800 From: Gordon gor...@n6wk.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] L-75 Output Band Switch Message-ID: 50ce3fff.3020...@n6wk.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I am in need of an Output Band Switch for an L-75 Amp. It does NOT have to be a good switch. A burnt one will be just fine as I plan on having it rebuilt. I just need an original one. The Amp I am helping with has NONE in there at present. Thanks Gordon gor...@n6wk.com -- Message: 3 Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2012 03:57:07 + From: Rich Hallman - N7TR r...@n7tr.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Pics of New Operating Desk Message-ID: cc2179ca5826a942a827ad0cc40818c03a939...@exchange2.corp.n7tr.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Thought I would share some pics of my new operating desk. This desk is dedicated to the older line of rigs. Collins and Drake. There are a few pics of the other side of the room that has much of my contest radio set-up. http://www.qrz.com/db/N7TR Pair of Round Emblem S-Lines w/ 30L-1 and a fully restored Howard Mills W3HM Gold Dust Twins. Pair of late serial # Drake C-Line's. R4C's are fully populated with all the Sherwood mods and filters w/ L4B. ThanksRich Rich N7TR ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV www.n7tr.comhttp://www.n7tr.com Telnet: dxc.n7tr.com N7TR DXCluster -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20121217/9ac9cd31/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 54, Issue 16 * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Thinking of buying Drake TR-4C
I agree with Al. Rick W0RT - Original Message - From: Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com To: Gary Taggart gtagg...@rollanet.org Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 1:54 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Thinking of buying Drake TR-4C Hi Gary, Sorry to so abrupt, but in a word, NO. These nice rigs were designed for SSB use, AM is a far afterthought to satisfy the folks of the day who thought AM was not really being replaced by something better. You run the risk of destroying your final tubes if you try to get more than the minimum power output stated in the manual. Sweep tubes were designed for intermittent (pulse, basically) use, with about 15 watts plate dissipation, meaning about 45-50 watts output is all you could safely get from a TR-4(any) on AM. And, it's not true AM either, so not great audio punch. Look elsewhere, it'd be more reasonable to consider a Heath DX-40, with a receiver of choice from the era to get the same sort of performance. Or a Heath DX-100, Johnson Viking 2, etc., for what was very common back in the days of AM, late 1950's - mid -60's, with a solid plate modulated 100+- watts. just my humble opinion, from an AM'er of those days (late -50's). 73, Al, W8UT www.boatanchors.org www.hammarlund.info There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats Ratty, to Mole On 12/2/2012 12:43 PM, Gary Taggart wrote: I am considering buying a Drake TR-4C for AM HF use. Is this a good choice? I’m not sure of the condition of the transceiver at this time. Gary Taggart KF0TW Sent from my iPhone ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 53, Issue 11
Hi Chuck, Never have, but why would you need/want to? What would you gain (pardon the pun)? Not to be a naysayer, but what am I missing? Rick W9WS On Nov 19, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. R-4C Antenna Input Direct To Mixer (Chuck Pool) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2012 06:34:26 -0800 (PST) From: Chuck Pool aa...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C Antenna Input Direct To Mixer Message-ID: 1353335666.34781.yahoomail...@web160801.mail.bf1.yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi to all: This question has to do with the antenna input for the Drake R-4C. Has anyone tried bypassing the RF amp and feeding the antenna input directly to the first mixer in the R-4C? 73, Chuck -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20121119/72658c5a/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 53, Issue 11 * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] VTVM Probe with DMM
- Original Message - From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 11:22 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] VTVM Probe with DMM Hi Paul. Wouldn't it be the same thing if you set-up a reference voltage that is -1.07V or whatever the drop is and then pushed the relative button? If all you are trying to do is improve upon the input Z of the DMM, , my opinion is that I have never seen a measurement in troubleshooting any tube set that could not be done with a modern DMM. At 10M inputZ, it isn't going to do much in the way of load. Using one for an RF probe is slightly more of an issue but with a properly built RF probe, it still is no real issue. Perhaps I have misunderstood what and why you are trying to acheive. FWIW Curt KU8L The idea of the 1 meg resistor at the probe tip is to reduce the effect of lead capacitance on the measurement. Evidently a lot of electronic voltmeters have them. In some cases a manufacturer will specify the use of such a resistor in making measurements. I think Collins does this in some older manuals. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Hum and audio transistor
- Original Message - From: Max Cotton airra...@dsl.pipex.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 11:10 AM Subject: [Drakelist] R4C Hum and audio transistor I have a very nice R4C it had a hum with bad audio distortion so I decided to investigate, whilst taking it apart I noticed that if I touched the noise blanker the hum would alter, I removed the NB board and the hum was still there, I found eventually that the audio transistor had desoldered itself, do they really run that hot? so I resolded the wires, now the radio does not work anything like as well and has a high amount of white noise, has that audio transistor died and if so where do I get a new one, is there an equivalent for that power transistor? 73, Max M0GHQ Which transistor desoldered itself? Its possible it was overdriven because the bias was wrong. The three transistors in the audio amp are direct coupled so a problem with any of them will affect all. Check the power supply voltages and the amount of ripple on each. While a scope is the best tool for looking at ripple any AC voltmeter capable of reading perhaps ten percent of the DC voltage will do. Distortion is likely if one or more of the transistors is bad. Check the caps around the audio amp. You will have to check them for leakage rather than ESR. You will probably have to substitute them. Unfortunately, the only schematic I have for the C is from BAMA and is so low res that I can't even read the voltages or part designators. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale
Ditto. C. Richard Pumphrey NOTICE: It is okay to print this email. Paper is a plentiful, biodegradable, renewable, recyclable, sustainable product made from trees that provide jobs and income for millions of Americans. Thanks to improved forest management, we have more trees in America today than we had 100 years ago. On Oct 25, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote: Do you guys realize that it took you longer to type and send these repsonses than it would have taken to just use your DELETE key? I, for one, don't mind such occasional listings. It's kind of fun to see what pops out of the woodwork, and I might just see something I want. 73 -Jim NU0C On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:16:48 +, mark depaepe wrote: Concur. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -- The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is relative. - Idris, The Doctor's Wife ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Neutralization
- Original Message - From: leecra...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 9:08 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Neutralization Steve: IMHO, neutralizing the finals with the plate and screen voltages removed is the quickest way to neutralize and the easiest on the finals. Several older rigs have a final voltage disconnect plug to accomplish this (e.g. Central Electronics) and I always build in a similar disconnect on my homebrew transmitters. Richard's cautions are well placed, you've got to remove BOTH the plate and screen supplies and both are at high voltage so caution is advised (also, make sure the HV caps have dissipated). You'll need to measure the RF voltage at the output of the final amp. The easiest place to get this at the antenna connection and the easiest way to read it is with a scope (though most instructions will have you construct a low reading RF volt meter with a uA meter, diode and capacitor). Just remember that you will be tuning the final for maximum RF, then neutralizing for minimum RF. 73 Lee WB6SSW My Kenwood TS-520S has a switch which disables the screens for neutralization. That seems to shut the tubes off well enough. I've tried neutralizing a Drake T4XB both by disconnecting the screen only and by disconnecting both screen and plate. Both work. I used a scope to find the null. One could also use a receiver in the same way is setting carrier null but that can be picked up with a sampling loop while neutralizing really requires a direct connection. I think the reason special voltmeters are prescribed in older literature was simply that suitable instruments were not generally available, at least not outside of an electronic lab. These days sensitive RF voltmeters and scopes that to into the stratosphere are common so one need not worry about building anything. I will say that for high power amps a grid-dip meter that can also work as a wavemeter/detector is helpful. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Neutralization
- Original Message - From: Steve sswh...@mchsi.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 6:17 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Neutralization I have a Drake T4 that needs neutralization . I have tried the approach given in the manual and while it seems to work I thought I might use this as an opportunity to learn how to do what is called a Cold Tube neutralization where you do not apply High Voltage to the plate. Seems that you can Neutralize the tube with only filament voltage, bias and screen voltages applied. Has anyone done this and if so what is the preferred method of doing it. Steve NU0P I think this is a confusion of the traditional method of neutralizing where the tube is fed with FR but with no plate or screen voltage. You can remove the screen voltage and neutralize with plate connected or disconnect both but if you remove plate voltage without also removing screen voltage the tube will burn up. The idea is to set up the amplifier for normal drive and tuning and then disconnect the HV. Then measure the feed through of RF on the plate side and adjust the neutralizing capacitor for minimum feed through The neutralizing capacitor forms a bridge circuit with the interelectrode capacitance of the tube and is adjusted to balance to prevent positive feedback from output to input with consequent oscillation. Some care is necessary because you can't disable the HV supply in the small Drake transmitters so you must disconnect it at the feed-through caps for the tubes. That is dangerous both because its a shock hazard and because of the danger of accidental shorting of the supply. The handbook method is fussy but works. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C overall gain specification
- Original Message - From: Alan Ibbetson a...@g3xaq.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 10:49 AM Subject: [Drakelist] R4C overall gain specification I have the data I was seeking on R4C overall gain, thanks to Steve Wedge W1ES/4. The original 1974 QST review gives it as 0.1uV or less for 10dB S+N/N. Although my receiver can detect a 0.1uV signal it's well short of that amount of audio output, so it looks like I have some work to do to find a bit more gain. -- Alan Ibbetson a...@g3xaq.net Older receiver specs gave a minimum audio output level for a given input level. This is useful for seeing if the receiver is working correctly and is, I think, what you want. The spec as given above does not specify an output level so it really does not indicate gain. Its a typical old style spec for noise level and is again useful for checking a particular kind of receiver for normal function but not much else. The R4C book gives a spec of 0.7 watt of audio at the AVC threshold and a minimum power output of 2 watts at less than 5% THD. You can check the power output using a resistor load and voltmeter but monitor with a scope to keep from going into overload. 5% is just visible. Presumably, the AVC threshold is where the S meter just begins to indicate, or just a bit below that. I would do the S meter adjustment procedure before trying this measurement. If you find the receiver is really not up to snuff its worth going through the entire adjustment procedure. I think Garrey Barrell has a disc for the R4C and it may have stage gain info, contact him about this. He is _not_ on this list. www.k4oah.com -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TX4B cathode resistors
- Original Message - From: Peter Ravn fas...@privat.dk To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 11:08 AM Subject: [Drakelist] TX4B cathode resistors The two cathode resistors in the finals in the TX4B should be 15 ohms each, but R32 is 30 ohms and R33 16 ohms with the finals unplugged, so R32 is definitely bad. The difference in voltages on the cathodes of the two finals is, however, minimal. The voltage across R32 is 0.85 and 0.7 across the R33. What are the causes and consequences of the differences in the cathode resistors? Thanks. OZ8CTH Peter I am not sure what the intended purpose of the resistors is. They have by-pass caps on both sides and are further connected to an RF choke which goes to the metering circuit. You can measure the total tube current of each tube by measuring the drop across the resistors. The voltage drop is very small compared to the fixed grid bias so I don't think they have much effect on it. I found the same thing in my T4XB, one resistor right on the nose, the other about twice the marked value. They were of different manufacture, the good one having a solid body, the bad one having a mold seam and different surface texture. I replaced both with metal oxide film resistors. I did the same in my TR-4. While all carbon composition resistors tend to increase in value with age and heat some are much worse than others. For the most part I've found that Ohmite and Allen-Bradley resistors tend to stay pretty stable. I don't know who made the seamed ones and don't see many IRC resistors in the stuff I've worked on. IRC have a sort of tree bark texture that was supposed to help dissipate heat and also were metalized, I have no idea of what that really was. The resistors with mold seams going the long way all seem to go bad. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 2-C
- Original Message - From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 6:13 PM Subject: [Drakelist] 2-C The received audio in my 2-C is completely dead. This had happened before and then resolved itself but is back. The S-meter still shows the calibrator signal, and feeding tone into the sidetone jack produces weak audio that is not very responsive to the AF gain control and is modulated with 60Hz.. No difference between the AM and either of the two sideband positions. There is a slight hum in the speaker and considerable hum on the 60uF section of the triple filter cap, which is a new replacement one. No audio on the mode switch. Advice? lets look at the circuit, there are a couple of handbooks and a schematic at BAMA if you don't already have them. The first step as always is to check the power supplies. Make sure the 12V and 10V busses have the right voltage on them and that there is little or no ripple. The 10V supply appears to be dropped from the 12V supply so check the latter. This supply has a 1000 uf cap across it so it should be pretty pure. The entire audio stage runs off this supply. The hum bothers me. It could indicate the power supply is malfunctioning or that there is an open ground somewhere. The usual voodoo for these (and much other equipment) is to work all the screws to make sure they are making good contact because many grounds are returned to the chassis through them. The 12V rectifier is a full wave one so the ripple should be 120hz. If you are hearing 60 hz and the supply seems OK its probably an open ground somewhere. The audio is solid state and has three stages, Q4, Q6 and Q7. The volume control is ahead of Q4 and should control the input to this transistor including the side tone. The side tone jack is connected right to the wiper of the volume control so it will work in reverse to tell you what is there. I would use a scope on this jack and see if there is audio there. If so, its getting lost further on. If its not there or is weak I would look at the cap across the pot first. This is C-62, a 0.05uf cap. Its possible, although unlikely that its shorted or has developed a low resistance. I think its more likely that C-65 has problem. This is the coupling cap to Q4. Since you have a scope (to look at the ripple) I would first confirm there is a signal at the side tone jack and then trace it along the audio chain to see where its getting lost. Since the position of the function switch (that is AM or SSB) does not seem to affect the problem its likely after the switch S-5. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap? Further progress?!
- Original Message - From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2012 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap? Further progress?! Thanks Steve and Chris for your helpful advice regarding a possible bad crystal. I think you are right but somehow, despite being most careful, I seem to have made matters worse! Are 45 year old crystals particularly delicate? Should I renew them all? Tried the 15m crystal in the 10m and 40m sockets. Nothing doing. Tried the 10m and 40m crystals in the 15m socket. Nothing doing either!! Two problems by the look of it as far as 15m is concerned. The real shock came when I put the 10m and 40m crystals back in their correct places. 40m is fine but 10m is now dead. Of course I have taken it out and re-inserted it but to no avail. Maybe I wrecked it! Chris had trouble with a dirty crystal socket. Obviously I can clean the crystal pins, though they appear clean enough, but how on earth do I clean a crystal socket? Isn't Ham Radio fun! 73 Damien G3XER I doubt if you broke the crystal. Crystals do fail with age, more often they drift. Before giving up on a crystal try cleaning the pins. The least abrasive cleaner is the eraser end of a pencil or a similar type eraser. This also works on tube pins. If that doesn't work try a fine brass brush or fine steel wool. The pins of the crystal socket are harder to clean but I suggest using Deoxit with the aid of a wooden toothpick or a small stiff brush like a tooth brush or an acid brush with the bristles cut short to make them stiff. Crystals can be tested using a grid-dip meter, if you have one. Connect the crystal across the coil terminals in place of the coils and adjust the capacitor to get oscillation. International Crystal seems to be a good source for Drake crystals. They know the characteristics. If you determine the crystals are bad I suggest calling them. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] exploding caps
Damien, This should tell you everything you need to know about the AC-4. http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/AC4_Troubleshooting/ Drake_AC3-AC4_Troubleshooting.htm 73 Rick W9WS On Aug 25, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Exploding cap's ??? (Arthur Delibert) 2. Exploding Cap' ??? (Damien Mannix) -- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 19:36:11 -0400 From: Arthur Delibert radio7...@msn.com To: damienman...@hotmail.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap's ??? Message-ID: snt124-w378f2d3e94b8a9ac456f32e4...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Be sure the electrolytics are fully discharged before you touch anything inside. They can retain a high enough charge to give you a serious jolt. In a lot of power supplies, the electrolytics have a bleeder resistor across them, to drain down that charge within a minute or so after the unit is turned off. But you're working in old equipment where things may have been modified and/or broken. A few years ago I bought an old transmitter with separate power supply at a hamfest. The seller assured me it was all in working condition. I think I would have been killed if I'd relied on that bit of puffery. But W1ES is right -- they're pretty straightforward, and you shouldn't have any trouble figuring out what's what or working on it. Just be sure to respect the voltages that it's capable of. --Art Delibert, KB3FJO From: damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 16:03:54 + Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap's ??? Wow, thank you so much to all for the most useful information. Yes the AC4 is wired for 240 v. Hoped to string up some sort of temporary antenna this weekend and get on the air but I now know I will be busy doing something else! Just hope I have the technical abilty to sort it out. Years ago I built a Heathkit scope but that is about my only experience with components, soldering etc. I do not suppose any Drake enthusiast will have any doubt as to why a TR4 but in case anybody has, in the late 60's and early 70's when I was active I had three receivers in a row, the last being a R4A. I thought it was magnificent and way ahead of any receiver I had tried at the time. Wish I still had it today. It is only natural that I want to return to Drake. Thanks again everyone. Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120824/6d5ad339/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 15:36:08 + From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Exploding Cap' ??? Message-ID: bay153-w50feff8d75ffe3bfc7769bd8...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hello all, I am embarrassed but most grateful for all the kindness and helpful advice given to me. Too many to thank individually but many many thanks to all. The safety advice is taken very seriously and I will be ultra cautious bearing in mind my inexperience. Already I am puzzled. Astonished in fact. A most careful examination of every component in the AC4 and then the TR4, magnifying glass and high power flashlight and what a lot under the TR4, shows no sign of distress to any component!! Clearly the bang came from somewhere, I was not dreaming, so I guess it is time to carefully take some voltage measurements from the AC4 as a first step. DamienG3XER -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120825/3c44ffd1/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 50, Issue 21 *
Re: [Drakelist] Exploding Cap' ???
- Original Message - From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 8:36 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Exploding Cap' ??? Hello all, I am embarrassed but most grateful for all the kindness and helpful advice given to me. Too many to thank individually but many many thanks to all. The safety advice is taken very seriously and I will be ultra cautious bearing in mind my inexperience. Already I am puzzled. Astonished in fact. A most careful examination of every component in the AC4 and then the TR4, magnifying glass and high power flashlight and what a lot under the TR4, shows no sign of distress to any component!! Clearly the bang came from somewhere, I was not dreaming, so I guess it is time to carefully take some voltage measurements from the AC4 as a first step. DamienG3XER Electrolytic caps usually smell pretty strongly when they explode. Actually, these caps usually have a vent to prevent an actual explosion if they develop an internal short but they still smell when they go. Film caps do not often explode and seldom short. A resistor also smells when it heats enough to explode but the odor depends on the type. Carbon composition resistors usually have the typical carbolic acid odor of burning phenolic but film caps may not have an odor. Its possible this was an arc-over. That may be hard to find. I would certainly inspect the switch decks, especially in the RF section, very carefully. Also inspect the variable capacitors in the RF section for any sign of arcing on the plates. An arc will usually leave some sort of trace, sometimes a dark track and sometimes a small area where its melted the metal at the surface. Its possible for dirt to cause an arc and be burned away. Its also possible for moisture to cause an arc. You can check the power supply with it disconnected from the transmitter by shorting the AC switch pins on the connector. Unloaded voltages will be higher than indicated on the schematic. I variable transformer is useful here. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] exploding caps
Charles, I just try'd it and it went right to it...try this from the main page... it's the 1st item on the list of articles http:// www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeTechTips.htm Rick W9WS On Aug 25, 2012, at 12:11 PM, Charles Ring wrote: On 8/25/2012 1215, richard radke wrote: Damien, This should tell you everything you need to know about the AC-4. http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/AC4_Troubleshooting/ Drake_AC3-AC4_Troubleshooting.htm I get a Forbidden error there. -- Charles Ring W3NU ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 50, Issue 19
Hey Damien, Welcome back to radio (you even had a few fireworks too). Yup that's what a cap sounds like when it goes. Remember, it's probably 40 years old and engineered for 25. Easy fix though. Re-build the whole supply while your in there. You more than likely lost a couple diodes in the process too (1N4007 is a newer, heavier replacement...cost about 10-15 cents apiece). Simple complete kits are available, and reasonably priced Rick W9WS On Aug 24, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Exploding cap' ??? (Damien Mannix) 2. Re: Exploding cap' ??? (Ed Tanton) 3. Re: Exploding cap' ??? (Charles Ring) 4. Re: Exploding cap' ??? (Ed Tanton) 5. FOR SALE: Drake T4XC Transmitter and AC4 Power Supply (William Mills) -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 16:24:05 + From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ??? Message-ID: bay153-w2804d03b199e4cb566527fd8...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hi all, Bought an immaculate looking TR4 which has been out of use a long time. Also bought an AC4 which claims to have had the original EHT caps and diodes replaced. Powered them up with 20 vac for four hours, then up in 20 v steps at four hours per step, listening and sniffing for any problems. Reached 220 vac an hour ago. AC4 slightly warm and centre of TR4 top a bit warmer. Then there was one hell of a crack! Sounded like a gunshot and frightened me to death! Swiched off immediately of course. No smell that I can detect. Is that what an exploding capacitor sounds like? Any advice on where to start looking? The TR4 or the AC4? Sad day for me. Trying to return to the hobby after over 30 years. Been too busy making a living and bringing up a family. Regards, DamienG3XER -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120823/4db821dc/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 13:26:52 -0400 From: Ed Tanton n...@comcast.net To: 'Damien Mannix' damienman...@hotmail.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ??? Message-ID: 002b01cd8154$7c7d6100$75782300$@comcast.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Is it possible power supply was set for 110V not 220V? I do not believe it's the TR4-although of course it could be. If it was, I should think you would have lost a diode(s) or Heaven-forbid: the transformer. It could have been a faulty diode that caused it-hence, after making sure about the input voltage selector (and if it's correct, I'd check its wiring) I'd check all the diodes. Finally, it's always possible it was just the capacitor's time having come. If you've made sure about the voltage setting, then replace the cap, do the same start-up routine, and then the SAME cap goes, then yeah, it's obviously not the caps, but something else going on. Before you walk-away for the run-time test, I'd check all the voltages just to be sure they're right. That way, if it does go again (or some other cap) you'll know at least it LOOKED right prior to catastrophe. Ed Tanton website: http://www.n4xy.com/ http://www.n4xy.com All emails IN OUT checked by Norton AntiVirus with AutoProtect -- Wag more / Bark less -- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist- boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Damien Mannix Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 12:24 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ??? Hi all, Bought an immaculate looking TR4 which has been out of use a long time. Also bought an AC4 which claims to have had the original EHT caps and diodes replaced. Powered them up with 20 vac for four hours, then up in 20 v steps at four hours per step, listening and sniffing for any problems. Reached 220 vac an hour ago. AC4 slightly warm and centre of TR4 top a bit warmer. Then there was one hell of a crack! Sounded like a gunshot and frightened me to death! Swiched off immediately of course. No smell that I can detect. Is that what an exploding capacitor sounds like? Any advice on where to start looking?
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 50, Issue 16
Hey Evan, Great to hear from you. Hope everything is FB. I cleaned the gain pot last time I was in the amp and replaced the 5K 7 watt'er (just cuz) when I re-built the supply. The whole ALC set-up has never really worked very well, but haven't had anything to compare it to either, other than my 1000MP MK V, which isn't a fair comparison. Other than a parts unit is that pot and switch available anywhere? Rick W9WS On Aug 22, 2012, at 2:57 PM, K9sqg wrote: Rick, I've never found the ALC pot to be particularly touchy. However, I have repaired several L4Bs that had an open taper caused by the 5K 7 watt resistor in the power supply opening. It could be that the taper has opened or developed a weak spot that is circumvented by the wiper crossing that area. Just not sure about this one. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: richard radke rar...@excite.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Aug 22, 2012 2:31 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 50, Issue 16 Hi Bob, What do you mean by doesn't work? My T-4XC with the L4B is pretty heavy-handed. Just a slight advance of the L4B's gain control drops the pwr output big time. Almost makes me think the pot isn't linear. Makes it really tuff to find that sweet-spot. I typically leave the ALC line unplugged and watch the scope. Rick W9WS On Aug 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. FS R4C Crystals 173 total crystals (douglas nyman) 2. Re: is Drake closing? (ve...@cogeco.ca) 3. T-4XB AGC (ROBERT SMITH) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 18:28:10 -0500 From: douglas nyman nyman3...@hotmail.com To: Drake group drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] FS R4C Crystals 173 total crystals Message-ID: blu166-w181e99e42113d3ba3094d8ef...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I have 173 crystals for the R4C radio. All but 6 or 7 crystals had drifted over 5 khz. The rest had drifted 2,3 or 4 khz. No dead crystals. I no longer have any Drake equipment sorry to say. Rather than sell these crystals off piece by piece I would take offers on the whole lot. I will send any interested party an inventory list. Please contact me off the list. Doug SWL -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120821/1bc2ff6b/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 20:42:50 -0500 From: ve...@cogeco.ca To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing? Message-ID: 5034391a.22d.214d.21...@cogeco.ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Bill Just curious (in your opinion perhaps)was Drake purchased as an investment by B-T or just to get the name and get them out of the competitive way?? Maybe this is the way of business, but it would seem a bit expensive to buy them out just to put them out of business?? So I suppose my theory that Drake would buy out Palstar (located just up the road in Piqua, Ohio) and make a triumphant return to the amateur radio market. Yes I know, dream on. Sorry to see the demise of Drake. Wonder what Bob Drake would say about this turn of events??!? Thanks Bill for the bits of Drake history that you have shared with the list. VERY much appreciated!! Bill VE3ES Hello, Drake hasn't been Drake as you guys knew Drake for a long time. ? The company was mainly producing video and cable head end products, see their web-site. ?Amateur radio manufacturing and or service was history, long gone, even with the production of the R-8 series receivers, SW-8 etc. ?The company was sold, sold again, and recently sold again to Blonder-Tongue another video and cable product manufacture, This company was Drakes largest competitor and is located in New Jersey, see their web-site. Most of the Drake employees were slowly let go, from the top down, all except for a few from sales, engineering and one guy from service. ?These people will move to Springboro Pike, there will be NO manufacturing at this building, save for what engineering builds, manufacturing will be done in New Jersey or . ?The Drake name will be used on some products built by Blonder- Tongue as the name Drake is well known
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 50, Issue 16
Hi Bob, What do you mean by doesn't work? My T-4XC with the L4B is pretty heavy-handed. Just a slight advance of the L4B's gain control drops the pwr output big time. Almost makes me think the pot isn't linear. Makes it really tuff to find that sweet-spot. I typically leave the ALC line unplugged and watch the scope. Rick W9WS On Aug 22, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. FS R4C Crystals 173 total crystals (douglas nyman) 2. Re: is Drake closing? (ve...@cogeco.ca) 3. T-4XB AGC (ROBERT SMITH) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 18:28:10 -0500 From: douglas nyman nyman3...@hotmail.com To: Drake group drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] FS R4C Crystals 173 total crystals Message-ID: blu166-w181e99e42113d3ba3094d8ef...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I have 173 crystals for the R4C radio. All but 6 or 7 crystals had drifted over 5 khz. The rest had drifted 2,3 or 4 khz. No dead crystals. I no longer have any Drake equipment sorry to say. Rather than sell these crystals off piece by piece I would take offers on the whole lot. I will send any interested party an inventory list. Please contact me off the list. Doug SWL -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120821/1bc2ff6b/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 2 Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 20:42:50 -0500 From: ve...@cogeco.ca To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing? Message-ID: 5034391a.22d.214d.21...@cogeco.ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Bill Just curious (in your opinion perhaps)was Drake purchased as an investment by B-T or just to get the name and get them out of the competitive way?? Maybe this is the way of business, but it would seem a bit expensive to buy them out just to put them out of business?? So I suppose my theory that Drake would buy out Palstar (located just up the road in Piqua, Ohio) and make a triumphant return to the amateur radio market. Yes I know, dream on. Sorry to see the demise of Drake. Wonder what Bob Drake would say about this turn of events??!? Thanks Bill for the bits of Drake history that you have shared with the list. VERY much appreciated!! Bill VE3ES Hello, Drake hasn't been Drake as you guys knew Drake for a long time. ? The company was mainly producing video and cable head end products, see their web-site. ?Amateur radio manufacturing and or service was history, long gone, even with the production of the R-8 series receivers, SW-8 etc. ?The company was sold, sold again, and recently sold again to Blonder-Tongue another video and cable product manufacture, This company was Drakes largest competitor and is located in New Jersey, see their web-site. Most of the Drake employees were slowly let go, from the top down, all except for a few from sales, engineering and one guy from service. ?These people will move to Springboro Pike, there will be NO manufacturing at this building, save for what engineering builds, manufacturing will be done in New Jersey or . ?The Drake name will be used on some products built by Blonder- Tongue as the name Drake is well known in the video and cable head-end market. ? This is ONLY what I have heard !!! 73, Bill From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov To: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com; Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 9:04 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing? I'm sorry but who said that? Who said Drake was moving manufacturing offshore? Nothing in the previous messages said they were moving offshore or lost their moral compass. I believe previous messages indicated this IS a local move and KEEPING the existing numbers. de WA6HYQ ? From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net on behalf of Charles Ring Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 5:55:45 PM To: Robert Ladden Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing? Off to slav e labor in China most likely. The businesses that had a conscience have all lost it or been killed off. On 8/20/2012 2041, Robert Ladden wrote: With leaving
Re: [Drakelist] R4C Speaker Output
- Original Message - From: Bill Becky wmarv...@charter.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 8:35 PM Subject: [Drakelist] R4C Speaker Output Hi Group On the R4C speaker output which is 3.2 ohms. Can this audio be attached to a computer's microphone jack (typically 50K) using a resistor pad to prevent overload?? 73 Bill KB9IV Short answer is yes. I would make a simple pad with a 4 ohm resistor across the output and a high value resistor or pot feeding the computer line. The resistor across the output will insure the amplifier is seeing something like the right load which will give best frequency responce and minimum distortion. OTOH, the headphone jack is fed from the same place as the speaker jack and will feed phones of almost any impedance so its probably not very critical. If your computer has a line input you might try that as well. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] shure 444 mic
- Original Message - From: ted orant ted1...@sbcglobal.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 10:03 AM Subject: [Drakelist] shure 444 mic Im trying to wire my 444 mic to tr7..Using pin 1 blk wire for audio from shure, pin 2 white wire for ptt,pin 3 for grd. Wont even key radio. My 7077 works fine. Just wanted option usung 444. Any help appreciated. FWIW, there is a data sheet at http://www.shure.com/idc/groups/tech_pubs/@global_managed/documents/webcontent/us_pro_444_ug.pdf There are two switches, one for VOX, one a push to talk switch. Check the switches with an ohm meter. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com In GOD we trust ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Hum in audio
- Original Message - From: Mike Williams mj...@bellsouth.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Hum in audio Carey, I had the same issue with my T4X; it turned out to be the AC-4. As Richard mentioned, use a scope or have a ham with a spectrum scope watch your signal on key down. I installed the Heathkit shop PS kit since it was long overdue anyway. 73, Mike W4DL I suspect this is not the power supply but its always worth checking it. I have two AC-4s with the Heathkit shop kit in them. Both work fine. I suspect that just replacing the caps with some from Hayseed Hamfest would do as well. The Heathkit shop kit replaces all the caps plus the rectifiers and resistors but usually its only the caps that go bad. When I did my AC-4 I removed the unused can caps from the chassis. I suppose some people leave them on for cosmetic purposes but I don't see any sense to that plus the openings in the chassis from the old caps are convenient for wiring. Note that there is a fair amount of ripple on the HV line especially under load. I also found the voltages given in the Heathkit instructions were optimistic. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] hum in audio
- Original Message - From: Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT kc5...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 9:43 AM Subject: [Drakelist] hum in audio Hello All I have developed a hum in the audio of my t4x. on am it completely wipes out the audio and pushes the output up. on ssb it is there but not near as bad. you can actully understand the audio. i have checked power supply voltages and all is well. before i started poking and hacking i figured it was best to seek your opinions. Carey Make sure this is not power supply hum by checking the supply with an AC meter or scope. There should be little ripple. However, I suspect that you have an audio hum due to a loose ground. The hum will be worse in AM because in AM mode the side-band filters are bypassed. The audio goes to the modulator which connects directly to the output tubes so there is much more low end. If the hum is from the audio stage there should be none in CW. Begin with the microphone and its cable and connector and if not there with the connector in the transmitter. One standard bit of voodoo in much old equipment is to go through and work and tighten all the screws. Very often ground connections are made through them and they become slightly corroded in the same way as the contacts on switches do. Working them will clean the connection and often get rid of pernicious problems. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Removing the Load Variable Capacitor on a L-7
- Original Message - From: Roger White rwhitete...@verizon.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2012 6:53 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Removing the Load Variable Capacitor on a L-7 I have had a Drake L-7 sitting on the shelf unused for a few years now and recently decided to sell it. It has had the power supply updated and the ON/OFF switch disassembled and cleaned. It had functioned OK the last time I had used it (2 years ago) with the only problem being an erratic reading Plate Amp meter (an quick tap on the meter made it come from “zero” to the correct reading). The problem I am having now (and one that has never occurred before) is the Load Variable Capacitor is appearing to short some of its plates over a narrow arc of operation (say 10-20 degrees of arc). I can hear the plates touching and, of course, the resultant negative effect of the power out going to zero, etc. I have only had the amp open once to clean the power switch, I could tell it may have been worked, on as far as the screws on the bottom cover(s) appear to have been removed at few times. One thing I have noticed as I looked at the cap with the cover removed is that I can hear the plates “unshort” if I “torque” the chassis a little bit or loosen the screw that holds the front half of the Load Cap to the floor. Has anyone had this sort of problem with one of the variable caps? Can the Load var. cap be removed easily? Thanks for any help in advance. Roger White W5RDW Murphy, Texas One way to find the location of the short is to push a piece of paper between the plates. If there is a short in only one place this will find it. Use an ohm meter from rotor to stator to indicate the short. If its caused by a particle of something the paper may also clean it out. You may also have a bent plate. If so the rotary position of the plates where it shorts is a clue to the location. Check visually for overall centering of the plates. If they are off center check the bearing at the back of the capacitor. You can adjust it to get perfect centering. If this is from something that has gotten in-between the plates canned air may also get it out. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Pertaining to Dial Scale and S-meter lighting question by Al, WA2S
I'm in the process of restoring a TR-4Cx. Here are my unedited 7/15/2012 notes concerning lighting differences: The illumination color is different for the panel frequency dials on the right (bluish-white) and the receive signal strength transmitter plate current meters on the left (warm-white). Turns out that the blue-green gel between the pilot lamp and the meters has faded to clear in the center. I have no idea where to get replacement gel material. (Perhaps a theater lighting supplier?) [Unit would probably appear a bit better if both gels were replaced with a matching close color gel.] I believe this has been caused by the closer proximity of the gel to the pilot lamp on the S-meter assembly. Dick Conklin, WA2WGY/9 -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] RF Tube Testing
I am looking for some guidnace on testing RF amplifier tubes. I have a couple of 3-500Z tubes that I would like to determine if they are keepers or should be sent on to the Great Junk Pile In The Sky. I would much prefer to NOT put them in in my working amplifier. I'm sure Murphy would immediately visit and cause some catastrophic damage. Anyone have a suggestion on a reputable place that will test these devices? 73 W5BXE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] C-line
When using the C-line on CW should you put the R4C on external mute and use the sidetone or can you without damaging the RC put the function switch on ON so you can monitor your actual cw signal. The sidetone is not pleasant. Thank you. Rick W0RT ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] mc-50 mic on t-4xc
- Original Message - From: Dave, WV9E d...@wv9e.net To: Roger Roger rjhass...@gmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 1:29 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] mc-50 mic on t-4xc Roger, I use an MC-50 w/ my TR-4 and it sounds fine. The only issue you may have is wiring the thing to work the Drake. I took an old 4 pin connector from a cb and made an adapter that puts the ptt and mic lines in the correct arrangement. The MC-50 I have uses 4 wires, 2 for mic and 2 for ptt. You have to tie a common ground to adapt to the Drake 3 wire as I recall. Dave,.WV9E There is a data sheet for this mic showing the wiring at: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/rg4wpw/mc50.pdf -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] My TR-7 Has Settled Down for Receiving... BUT!
Next step is to try some SSB transmitting! I was able to inject carrier (am) and tune my antenna ... but my SSB output is not enough to make the meters 'wobble'!! Maybe I need to clean up some more terminals. Any ideas people?? Richard VK1RJ -- -- Eraina Richard Jenkins Canberra 'richardirena' on skype ... if at home ... + ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Re. TR-7 Completely Dead
My thanks to all those list members who replied to my earlier post. As recommended, I took off the top cover and extracted the fuse. It proved to be okay ... but the holder may have been tarnished. I carefully reinserted the fuse and lo.! it worked!! Fantastic!! Now, I have two follow-up questions: 1. The little bolts/screws that are use to attach the case to the chassis (8 in all) ... what size are they?? I am presuming some kind of SAE thread(?). Any information out there?? 2. My VFO has an attack of the minor 'wobblies' ... and the counter seems to wander up frequency by 100 or 200 Hz as the rig warms up. I am leaving it on today for a couple of hours ... to see whether it settles down. What are list members' opinions about the various 'improvements' ... eg. 'huff puff' vs DDS vs refurbishment of the original. My goals are to minimally change this fine old rig ... but I do want it stable enough for casual SSB operating. 73 to all and once again ... big THANKYOU. Richard VK1RJ -- -- Eraina Richard Jenkins Canberra 'richardirena' on skype ... if at home ... + ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: MN2000
Haver a MN2000 looking for a home. It is totally functional with no known problems. I have not installed any upgrades. The tuner has not been abused or run in a high power environment.reading function. $200 plus shipping, North America only. Pictures provided upon request. Thanks W5BXE - RB___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Anyone know an exec/owner of a tube company?
- Original Message - From: tonyk...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2012 2:09 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Anyone know an exec/owner of a tube company? Something tells me that a hundred hams won't make a difference. Haven't US vacuum tube companies all gone the way of typewriters, record albums, eight-track and cassette tapes, videocassette recorders, cathode-ray analog television sets, carburetors, and slide-rules? (Not to mention the Mom Pop corner grocery.) They're all kaput, regrettably. Fortunately, I have a few NOS 6HS6 tubes in my junk box, and if the FCC intends to confiscate them, they'll just have try to pry them out of my cold, dead fingers. Fat chance. 73, Tony N3WAK Well, in fact I sort of do. However, I am not sure they are still in business since the last I heard they were trying to sell a factory in the San Fernando valley. I can ask if they are interested in making other than high end audio tubes. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist
I have only one comment to make, which may or may not be applicable. Sometimes moderators on forums are like the Folks that are on condo boards. I have seen this on several forums. It creates problems from the libertarian types. Free speech should prevail. Some think the first amendment does not apply on the Internet. I demur. On the forums no one regulates the regulators, so people vote with their feet. This is similar to the FCC letting repeater operators kick people off the repeater. They do not own the frequency any more than the person that they disagree with. Who owns the Internet? That being said, this moderator did not moderate anyone or ask him to leave. On Apr 22, 2012, at 3:52 PM, Thom LaCosta k3...@zerobeat.net wrote: At 03:42 PM 4/22/2012, john wrote: There's nobody more useful to this forum than Gary was. Not only knowledgeable , Gary is a gentleman. Uninviting him is a serious mistake. He was NOT uninvitedcan you not read simple English? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH
- Original Message - From: w7...@mtaonline.net To: Tom Evans, AG9X tom.a...@gmail.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 9:56 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH I Subscribed but still don't see a way to download ...I did get an email confirming my subscription saying when future issues come out I would get an email with a link to downloading the new issue. I was looking forward to reading Garey's story... --- tom.a...@gmail.com wrote: Same here. It appears that when one subscribes it sets you up for a future issue, not the current or past ones. Unless you have the URL it appears you can't access the current issue. This is an odd way to set up something that is offered free. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Trouble with TR4 ?
- Original Message - From: m coffey r79b...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 4:16 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Trouble with TR4 ? First, I would like to thanks those who p osted info on whitening pointer knobs and the TR4 tube shields. Now, after having cleaned the switches and cleaned/reseated all the tubes, etc., I am trying out receive side on the radio with a 75ft. random wire. 20 and 80 have signals, but thats about it. Fairly low volume and no movement on the S meter ( S meter zero works fine). Also when switching between 20, 40, 80M, the sideband switches everytime and I have to correct it with the sideband switch ( normal?). When the calibratetor is used, I have it fine on 80 and 20 (with a constant low tone in background) but not on 40. Also no indication of calibrate on S meter. I got spare tubes with the radio (boxed but unchecked) and went through and subbed all the tubes in the receive line one by one, no change. Thoughts, suggestions? Mike. I found the some positions of the bandswitch on my TR-4 were persistently intermittant. I would clean them with Deoxit and work them and all would be fine. Then, the next day all 10 meter bands were dead. I finally cleanded the switch and coated it lightly with Tuner-Lub. That resulted in a pretty much permanent fix. I am not sure what happens to these switches but suspect the pressure of the contacts against the sliding part becomes weak. Rotary switches are _supposed_ to be self cleaning because of the sliding action. I suppose it works better if switches are constantly in use. I had a similar thing in an SP-600-JX where the IF bandwidth switch became intermittant. Cleaned several times with Deoxit but it became noisy and intermittant again in a few days. Here again Tuner-Lub seems to have given a long term fix. Of course, there may be other problems with the TR-4 but I suggest that even if you have gone through and worked the screws and cleaned the switches to do it again. Its simple and might fix the problem. Its also possible that the thing is way out of alignment. If the above voodoo doesn't fix it I suggest going through the alignment procedure. Its normal for the side band indicator to switch with the band. Its set up for the most commonly used sideband on each band. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Tube shields
- Original Message - From: m coffey r79b...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 3:45 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Tube shields I am cleaning up a TR4 for a friend and have noticed that the shields are missing on v6 and v7, although the shield bases are in place. Interestingly, the shields are missing in the chassis photo in the manual on the BAMA site. Anyone know how critical these two shields are? I would think that Drake would not have put them in there if they weren't necessary. Also, does anyone have a pair of these that they are willing to part with? The V6 shield is for a 7 pin and the V7 is a 9 pin (wider and taller). Mike Shields for V6 and V7 were never supplied. I am not sure why sockets taking shields were used perhaps because they do provide some shielding of the base of the tube. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 1st check of TR-4c
- Original Message - From: Paul Gerhardt phgerha...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] 1st check of TR-4c Re-soldered the mic connector to put the tip on the switch and ring on the mic as shown in the manual and heard someone calling CQ so made a contact to S. GA with the Turner 454 SSB mic and got a good report. Issues: Now idle plate current is quite high so will need to adj it down. The AC-4 is set for proper idle on the T4b now. It is reading 230ma so the meter resistor is on the list to check. I did this on the T4 when setting the bias. S-Meter seems to reads quite low but is moving. Meter reads zero with no signal on 40M when my other radio shows couple S units of noise. Meter only goes to half scale when PTT is pushed. -- Paul Gerhardt K3PG http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com QRP ARCI 6674 FP 274 I will repeat a standard approach: Work all the screws, ground connection is made through a number of them and contact gets bad. Just take a screwdriver and work them back and forth a few times. Also, clean the tube pins, I use a fine wire brush. Also clean out the tube sockets with a little deoxit and a fine brush like those sold for cleaning between your teeth. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] low plate voltage
Marc, I agree with Lee. Low input voltage. Mine shows 2700 volts running from a 240vac line after rebuild. What do you see in the cw/tune position, lower by the same percentage? Rick W9WS On Feb 20, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: low plate voltgage l4b (kc9...@aol.com) 2. Re: low plate voltgage l4b (Dino Papas) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:16:17 -0500 (EST) From: kc9...@aol.com To: hs0...@gmail.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b Message-ID: 8cebe021be02ba4-1cb4-1a...@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Marc, What is your line voltage? 73, Lee -Original Message- From: hs0zju hs0...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 10:53 am Subject: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should have 2600volts.? 73 marc hs0zju sent from galaxy tab 10.1 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:16:57 -0500 From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b Message-ID: 5f4823bb-0c60-45c9-9673-9cce13f9c...@cox.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Marc - I just rebuilt the L-7PS with a Harbach board (and a L-4PS with the Heathkit Shop board)Both boards show 2700 volts on the amp meters after putting them into operation. Did you do a low-voltage test before installing? I applied a 20VAC voltage to the input and got ~50VDC at the outputs verifying the voltage doubler function. You may want to give that a trysounds like a part reversal during install. Dino KL0S On Feb202012, at 1050 AM, hs0zju wrote: I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should have 2600volts. 73 marc hs0zju -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120220/422fa7a5/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 44, Issue 38 * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4 rebuild
Dino, I had a bleeder go several years ago when the glitch resistor blew with a BANG! I could only tell by a hairline crack in the body (can't remember if I did a resistance ck 1st or not). Took it out and it promptly fell apart. Did a rebuild with one of Mike's board and replaced both bleeders. Other than a tube flash-over it's been working well Rick W9WS On Feb 19, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds (Dino Papas) 2. Re: Microphone for 4 line (Steve Wedge) 3. Re: Microphone for 4 line (kc9...@aol.com) 4. Re: L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds (K9sqg) -- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 14:22:46 -0500 From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds Message-ID: ffe8a9f6-02cf-4703-9d3c-f168e7586...@cox.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week and figured I could minimize the time to do his by working out the bugs doing mine. As my L-4B is my main amp, and based on Evan's note to me a few years ago, I went ahead and changed out the 5K 7W resistor with the 13W version, replaced the 0.82 ohm HV line resistor and the 50K 50W bleeders as a precautionary measure. In the other amp I guess I was just lazy and simply installed only the Harbach board. Now sitting here thinking about it should I go back and just get it over with and replace the resistors in the L7PS? Has anyone ever had a bleeder go bad? Or the others for that matter. Sure, age will wear anything down. Also, the Harbach board doesn't include the diode balancing resistors that Mike's board does...as the original Drake diode strings used 'em what exactly is the difference? Do modern (read that better) diodes still need that protection? I'm just curious. I was pretty impressed that my 32 year old L-4BPS kept going like the Energizer Bunny all these years and I didn't notice any deterioration at all on the bodies of the orange electrolyticsbut, better safe than sorry and I'm looking forward to many more years of reliable operation with both amps. Thoughts? Dino KL0S -- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 19:59:36 -0500 From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: ko1h k...@cox.net, Drakelist@zerobeat.net, drakera...@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line Message-ID: DDCFB671A1254856BB7C1D941F736D3D@STEVE2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 John, I believe you can get high-Z elements from Heil, if you want to keep the old 444. I use a stone-stock, no preamp D-104 and get excellent reports. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! - Original Message - From: ko1h To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net ; drakera...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 5:55 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line HI all, I just got my R4/t4 pair back from restoration and well my old shure444 isn't getting good reports. I was wondering what microphone currently in production is the consensus to use now? I see replacement elements for the 444 but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Heil used to make a high impedance mic but I don't they do do any longer? What are ya'll using? What do you recommend? Thanks for opinion etc de John ko1h PS if anyone is looking to sell a TR4 in need of slight tlc or just cosmetics please contact me k...@cox.net -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120218/969332f2/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 3 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 21:43:33 -0500 (EST)
Re: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line
John, I've used a Heil HC-4 element through a Hi-Z xmformer for years. Heil sells (or used to) the raw element and transformer individually. I mounted them in a very nice black anodized dynamic mic from RS. Dosen't sound quite as good as my Shure 545S, but has a little more output Rick W9WS On Feb 19, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds (Dino Papas) 2. Re: Microphone for 4 line (Steve Wedge) 3. Re: Microphone for 4 line (kc9...@aol.com) 4. Re: L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds (K9sqg) -- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 14:22:46 -0500 From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds Message-ID: ffe8a9f6-02cf-4703-9d3c-f168e7586...@cox.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week and figured I could minimize the time to do his by working out the bugs doing mine. As my L-4B is my main amp, and based on Evan's note to me a few years ago, I went ahead and changed out the 5K 7W resistor with the 13W version, replaced the 0.82 ohm HV line resistor and the 50K 50W bleeders as a precautionary measure. In the other amp I guess I was just lazy and simply installed only the Harbach board. Now sitting here thinking about it should I go back and just get it over with and replace the resistors in the L7PS? Has anyone ever had a bleeder go bad? Or the others for that matter. Sure, age will wear anything down. Also, the Harbach board doesn't include the diode balancing resistors that Mike's board does...as the original Drake diode strings used 'em what exactly is the difference? Do modern (read that better) diodes still need that protection? I'm just curious. I was pretty impressed that my 32 year old L-4BPS kept going like the Energizer Bunny all these years and I didn't notice any deterioration at all on the bodies of the orange electrolyticsbut, better safe than sorry and I'm looking forward to many more years of reliable operation with both amps. Thoughts? Dino KL0S -- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 19:59:36 -0500 From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: ko1h k...@cox.net, Drakelist@zerobeat.net, drakera...@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line Message-ID: DDCFB671A1254856BB7C1D941F736D3D@STEVE2 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 John, I believe you can get high-Z elements from Heil, if you want to keep the old 444. I use a stone-stock, no preamp D-104 and get excellent reports. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! - Original Message - From: ko1h To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net ; drakera...@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 5:55 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line HI all, I just got my R4/t4 pair back from restoration and well my old shure444 isn't getting good reports. I was wondering what microphone currently in production is the consensus to use now? I see replacement elements for the 444 but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Heil used to make a high impedance mic but I don't they do do any longer? What are ya'll using? What do you recommend? Thanks for opinion etc de John ko1h PS if anyone is looking to sell a TR4 in need of slight tlc or just cosmetics please contact me k...@cox.net -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120218/969332f2/attachment-0001.html -- Message: 3 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 21:43:33 -0500 (EST) From: kc9...@aol.com To: k...@cox.net, Drakelist@zerobeat.net,
[Drakelist] Drake Amplifier
I am looking to purchase an amplifier in the next 30 days. If you have a Drake or Ten-Tec amplifier you're considering selling, drop me an email with your price and some digital pic's. Please don't offer me a project amp, I already have one of those and I don't need another. TNX W5BXE richfb...@sbcglobal.net ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] t4x am hifi mods
- Original Message - From: Carey Lockhart kc5...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2012 4:44 AM Subject: [Drakelist] t4x am hifi mods hello guys i found a modification on the am window reflector pages that changes the am to screen modulated hifi. here is the link. http://www.amwindow.org/tech/htm/t4.htm . my question is after the mod is the t4x dedicated to am or will ssb function as usual. also is there a better way of doing this been found since the article was written. -- Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT Boerne, Tx. 78006 www.kc5gtt.com Since he disconnects the VOX pot to accomplish this I also wonder. I wonder about the untended concequences of many of the mods for Drake stuff especially those for improving the audio. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion
A look at the schematic indicates that you have hit all the usual suspects. So, what else could cause the control grid voltage to go positive? I wonder if the tube socket is leaky. Even if the tube is on an extender it might be the socket. It might be something on the surface of the socket between pins. Pin 6 is the screen grid so leakage from that could cause the problem. Check the socket for carbon tracks or anything on the surface. Clean it thoroughly with dry alcohol. Temperature might make a difference if there is either a carbon track or something else there. Perhaps far fetched but easy enough to do and worth a try. If cleaning makes a difference but does not cure the problem a new socket might be in order. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com - Original Message - From: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 8:53 PM Subject: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion Hi folks, I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's. From about 1985 until 2000, it was stored while I got busy with job/family. I used it again for several months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything unusual. Now I am active again and want to use it full time, but I am hearing audio distortion after about 5 minutes of operation. Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher voltage than expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is expected. Coupling cap C185? No, lift one side, and no change. R154 has the correct value. Cathode resistor? R44 has the correct value, and I tried a different one anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change. I've replaced C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), no difference. I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, but voltages and ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit (e.g. 7mv at C90A, and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C). At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode voltage nominal. As time goes on, these creep slowly upward. After 5-6 minutes, the grid is approaching 3V. 30 seconds after power up: V7 pin 1: 4.8 pin 2,5: .006 pin 6: 134 pin 7: 146 5-6 minutes after power up: V7 pin 1: 6.2 pin 2,5: 2.9 pin 6: 129 pin 7: 139 I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little. If they were a little high to begin with, it may be because my line voltage is sometimes a bit high: I measured 122VAC today. I presume the drop in these values reflects increased current through V7. I get the same basic behavior when I have the receiver on a variac and control the line voltage to something less than 120VAC. The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but it becomes harsh sounding at some point. I don't know what the output waveform looks like. So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked around, I put a fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode voltages started to drop. The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy amount of forced air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good. Conductive socket material when hot? I don't think so: I put the tube on a 1.5-inch extender to reduce heat at the socket, with no change in behavior. Bad tube? No, two others behave the same way. I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, some on this list. None seem helpful. I'm stumped... any ideas? Thanks and 73, Randy WB4SPB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Pointer knob lines
- Original Message - From: m coffey r79b...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2012 4:40 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Pointer knob lines What suggestions does the group have on re-whitening the lines on the pointer knobs? I was thinking of using model enamel and a toothpick, wiping away any excess with qtips. Mike. I use paint pens. They come in several colors and tip widths. I got mine from a local art supply store. Mine were made by the same people who make Sharpie marker pens. These are filled with enamel paint. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 (bias mod)
- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 3:24 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 (bias mod) Gary - Obviously the bias would remain in the Class AB1 area for SSB and AM. Applying a keyed signal to a non-linear amplifier is a bad idea. Every time the drive is started or stopped there is the opportunity for additional distortion products to be generated. Some SSB distortion is caused by biasing the amplifier too high or too low, resulting in 'compression' or limiting the waveform to less than it's peak. More distortion. Perhaps we have an amplifier expert on here who can definitively respond to your question. There are no doubt MANY reasons why all transmitters switched to linear operation for CW, in spite of the 'power/efficiency savings. If nothing else than it takes large amounts of drive POWER, more trouble, including greatly increased Grid dissipation. To me, turning an input signal on and off to a Class C amplifier is asking for trouble. A Class C amplifier is essentially a switch, ON or OFF, and relies on the Q of the tank circuits to 'smooth things out'. A lot of potential headaches for a few percent efficiency increase. There are LOTS of 'ideas' on the internet that 'sound' good :-) Let us know what you find out!! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA There is a lot more than changing bias to converting a linear amplifier of any class to a Class-C amplifier. For one thing the plate impedance and thus tank requirements will be different. Its not trivial. There is a lot of information on designing Class-C amps in older handbooks, maybe even on the web, although I have not looked. The difference in output for a tube with given plate dissipation can be considerable. A Class AB linear has less than 66% efficiency and a Class-C amp around 78% (can be made higher with special tank circuits). Essentially, Class-C amplifiers are pulse integration devices. The plate efficiency is partly a matter of the pulse duration. I think if you want a transmitter primarily for CW or FSK building one from scratch might be best. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] My New 4 - Line....Issues but I'm loving it
- Original Message - From: Rick Gunderman wa4rg.r...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 3:49 PM Subject: [Drakelist] My New 4 - LineIssues but I'm loving it Ok, connected up the AC-4, fired up the transmitter (sorry, poor choice of words) and tried to tune it up on 40 after adjusting AC-4 bias. It seems my peak when adjusting RF-Tune was down in the 80M range...I'm not sure if that is normal. Anyway, I need to clean the switches before I proceed on the transmitter. On the R-4B, I received the 6CA5 to replace the tube that was broken when I received the equipment. The receiver seems to work like a charm on all bands but 15, absolutely nothing on 15. Without an antenna I can adjust the pre-selector for a noise rush on all bands but 15. Where do I begin? The audio sure sounds sweet from the MS-4 on the other bands, great audio! Tnx, Rick - WA4RG Test equipment on-hand for troubleshooting: DMM 100Mhz Scope Could be a bad crystal for that band or a dirty switch or crystal socket/pins. I suggest cleaning the pins and socket and the band switch. The crystal may even just be loose in the socket. If the crystal is bad new ones can be had from International Crystal or Bry Carling. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages
- Original Message - From: Rick Gunderman wa4rg.r...@gmail.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 9:34 AM Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages Hello All, I'm a newbie to Drake equipment, I just recently purchased a 4-line. When the equipment arrived one of the tubes had come out of the socket in the R-4B and it was broken so I'm waiting for a new tube. Everything looked good in the transmitter but I thought I would look at the voltages from the AC-4 before connecting things up. The voltages seem a bit high to me, but you're the experts. B+ high 769 VDC (checked at orange wire) B+ low313 VDC (checked at yellow wire) BIAS -76 VDC (checked at green wire) 15 VAC filament voltage (checked between black and white wires) All ripple .004 VAC Too high? v/r Rick Gunderman - WA4RG Something wrong here. The filament voltage should be 12.5 VAC on a 115VAC power line. The line voltage would have to be nearly 140 volts to produce this filament voltage. All voltages are about 1.2X the correct ones. That makes me suspicious of the meter you are using. What does it measure your line voltage as? I don't think the high voltages are the result of operating without a load although that will raise them somewhat. However, it would not change the bias voltage. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages
- Original Message - From: Rick Gunderman wa4rg.r...@gmail.com To: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 9:56 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages Thank you for your response Richard. Using the same meter, my line voltage reads 122 VAC. A puzzle. I have two AC-4's both with the Heathkit shop mods in them. By memory I did not get extra-high voltages on either. One is where I can get to it and will see if I can make some measurements with it unloaded. 122 VAC is typical of current power company practice and is not high enough to account for the differences between specified and measured voltages. I measured the voltages of one of my AC-4's. Measurements with a Triplet 630, 20k ohms per volt DC. I double checked some of the voltages with a Tektronix DMM245 which read essentially the same. Line voltage = 114 VAC HV = +650 VDC Medium HV = +270 VDC Bias, adjustable from about -45 VDC to about -70 VDC Filament, about 13 VAC All measured to chassis ground. All are unloaded voltages, i.e., the supply was not connected to a transmitter. This is pretty close to the values on the schematic. A label on the back of this unit states that it was rebuilt by Jeff Cavelli. My other one is burried a bit but by memory the voltages were nearly the same as this one. I can think of a lot of reasons for the voltages to be _low_ but not many for it to be high, especially by this much. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages
- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:27 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Voltages Mark - Interesting. A primary voltage of 121.5 VAC resulted in measured AC voltages out of the transformer at 266 VAC, 108 and 98. The filament measured 14 VAC, all no load. 266 x 2.828 = 752 V peak 108 x 2.828 = 305 V peak Both have very high bleeders, a mA or two so will reach near these peak voltages at no load. 98 x 28.28 = 138 V peak. The divider on the output is nominally 69 VDC at mid-range with NO load. The transmitter is specified as a 33k ohm load. All measurements taken with a calibrated Fluke DMM. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA I remeasured both supplies. Unloaded and with line voltage at about 120VAC, I get HV= +702 VDC on both. Only measured medium voltage on one and filament on one. MV= +287VDC Filament= 13.8 VAC Didn't remeasure the bias. Meter: Tektronix DMM 254 These were all measured at the end of the power plug with a jumper across the line switch contacts. I actually opened up a supply to measure the first voltages. Not sure where the difference came from. FWIW, wire doesn't work well to short the plug, I used bits of cut-off paper clip and that worked fine. It appears that the original poster's voltages are fine although I still think the filament is high. Since that is a matter of the turns ratio of the transformer it may still be a measurement error. The voltages that count are those measured with the transmitter working. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB audio
- Original Message - From: Peter Ravn fas...@privat.dk To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 2:20 AM Subject: [Drakelist] T4XB audio After more than forty years I have finally got what I was dreaming of when I was young: a Drake R4B with a Drake T4XB. The receive audio is second to none, but the tx audio is repeatedly reported to be flat, sharp or tinny. I am using a Turner +3B microphone with the gain control at 2 o'clock. All comments appreciated. 73 de OZ8CTH, Peter I agree that the microphone may be the problem. Check to see if the transmitter sounds the same on both sidbands, if not the carrier oscillator needs adjustment to center it. If its off the audio will be tinny on one sideband and bassy on the other. The filter in the transmitter is rather narrow and has quite sharp skirts so its not high-fidelity, nonetheless it should give balanced sounding audio on voice. If changing mics or adjusting the tuning doesn't do it I would investigate the mic amp. FWIW, I can hear the difference in microphones on my T4XB, for instance between an Astatic D-104 (no amp) which has a sharply rising mid to high range and a flat mic like an old Electro-Voice 654-A. The amount of difference surprized me because of the narrowness of the pass band. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB
- Original Message - From: Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net To: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov; w8...@aol.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 10:24 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB John, Normal AM carrier can only be had with a true, plate modulated rig. The Drakes don't have enough iron or a heavy enough modulator to do much more than controlled carrier. I've seen mods, but. I sure wouldn't do it to my Drakes. 73, Don, WB5HAK There is another reason for using controlled carrier; the resultant signal can be amplified by a linear amplifier designed for SSB wtihout exceeding its limits. This is true for both the linear in the rig and any external linear that may be used. I disagree only that true AM can be had with other than plate modulated transmitters; there have been many low-level modulated AM transmitters using linear amplifiers. However, a linear will have quite low average efficiency when used for AM. The estimate for old broadcast transmitters using linear amplifiers was an all day efficiency of around 33%. A reasonable plate modulated transmitter has at least twice this. Modern AM transmitters can exceed the old limit for efficiency by various methods, mostly by running the RF stage as nearly a pulse amplifier. Controlled carrier AM works fine for communication use but can be difficult to listen to on a receiver with a fast release AVC. Also, measuring modulation percentage is not as straight forward as for a conventional transmitter. If one wants real AM its better to get or build a dedicated transmitter but Drake makes it possible to communicate with those who may not have SSB receivers (who would that be?). -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B oddity
All, Thanks to everyone who made suggestions. Solder on the pins all look ok. .5Ω's on each filament. I'm guessing a grid to filament short/ leak when it gets hot. I did notice a slight bit of clouding near the top of the envelope that wasn't there before. Maybe from running the filament with way less than 5V. Thoughts ? At any rate, a replacement 3-400Z is gonna be hard to find (out of production for years) so I'll probably just get a new 3-500 to go with the one I already have. Rick W9WS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B Oddity
I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B. Evan, you out there? Been working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other. I reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite hole, and the amp and supply seems like they're running hotter than normal. HV is normal, but haven't keyed it yet or applied drive. Pwr supply was rebuilt a couple years ago with one of Mike's boards. Has anyone seen a tube fail like this? Being a week after xmas and the YL's birthday Friday, not real anxious to spend 5 big ones on a pair of 3-500's right now, but a guys gotta do what a guys gotta do. 2nd question. I've got one 3-500 spare that I believe to be good. Has anyone ever mixed a 3-400 and a 3-500 in the same amp? Only for testing purposes. Just asking. Rick W9WS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Morse Key
- Original Message - From: gypsym...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 12:07 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Morse Key Hi all, Do we have any collectors of old morse straight keys in the group? I suddenly find myself with a an original well used/abused WW2, J41A ( which is an unusual piece) to dispose of. This was from a 90+ yr old lady, and I don't think she wanted to give it away, more like she's disposing of things. (scrounging ?) Carl wd8nhk I am a small collector. If you want to find out what its worth I would search ebay for closed auctions. There is also a Morse Code list where you might get some help. I have no idea of the value of this thing. http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/morsecode -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Speaking of breaking Glass...
- Original Message - From: Eddy Swynar deswy...@xplornet.ca To: Curt cptc...@flash.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 10:08 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Speaking of breaking Glass... On 2011-12-22, at 12:54 PM, Curt wrote: All looks ok EXCEPT..the one tube that was bright has a small suck-hole thru the side of it. It got so hot, the glass melted and a hole was sucked thru the side without breaking the rest of the tube. YIKES Hi Curt, That happened to me one time here, too, only the circumstances were a bit different... I had a brand new pair of 811A tubes in my 500-watt amplifier, had just purchased a Yaesu FT-980. I got so enamoured with my being able to ...raise the average talk power of my SSB signal by virtue of the new rig's speech processor that after about 5, or so, DX QSOs on 20-meters, the fuse in the amp's power supply popped. I replaced it with a new one, and again, it blew... So I took off the amplifier's covert examined the new tubes...and lo behold, there was a tiny pin hole in the envelope of one. I guess my speech processor raised the plate dissipation of those jugs as well as my ...average talk power, to the point that the one tube got so hot the glass had softened, the vacuum was sucked out! I've never used a speech processor since that time. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ Eimac featured this effect when they began selling ceramic tubes. They showed a picture of a glass tube with a suck-hole in the side and a ceramic operated under the same conditions that did not. I think they said the suck hole was the result of electron bombardment of the tube at high frequencies but its possible that any inclusion or weak spot in the glass could do it. I've had tubes crack from overheating but have never had a suck-out. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear
Butt ugly would be a compliment. 73 W5BXE Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2011 07:46:21 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear Message-ID: 19754055.1324471581100.javamail.r...@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 I'm going to nominate this as the most-abused, nastiest-looking piece of Drake gear I've ever seen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=260919992177ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123 I wouldn't even bet that the meter's working given how much moisture this one has seen. Enjoy those Drakes - but not underwater... Steve, W1ES/4___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes
- Original Message - From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov To: anc...@ec.rr.com; w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 12:14 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed, then rinsing with distilled water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week. He said transformers were not a problem for this process. It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and placed in our document files. We never had any documentation, just something handed down. I worked for Neeley Sales Division which became the Fullerton office later. We used dishwashing detergent but Simple Green might work better. The transformers and chokes we had trouble with were curiously enough the hermetically sealed ones. That was because the sealing was often not intact so that a little moisture could get in. It would be very difficult to get it out again and it, or perhaps the detergent, would cause arcing and loss of the device. Those transformers and chokes were removed before cleaning. Open frame units would dry out fine and were not a problem. We removed meters and some plastic parts although the drying oven was not hot enough to damage most plastic. A thorough rinse is important as is blowing out the excess moisture with filtered compressed air. Filtered because many air compressors leave some oil residue in the air. Lubrication when necessary was done to factory specs but I have forgotten what was used, probably something gotten from -hp- rather than locally. While I went to training classes at Palo Alto and spent some time at the microwave division factory I never visited the repair shop there so I don't know what procedures they used. We also painted cabinets when required. Note that older cabinets were painted in whatever the current color was so that you will find older instruments that originally came with the dark gray cabinets painted in the almost violet lighter gray or even blue. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes
- Original Message - From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:23 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes Hey Steve, How long and at what temp? I would worry about getting water in the IF cans etc. Does it just bake out? ? Thanks, Bob K6GGO I will repeat the method used at Hewlett-Packard many years ago. First step was to remove anything that could be damaged by water or heat. All closed compartments were opened. Then the chassis was rinsed with warm water from a hose. Then sprayed with a paint spray gun filled with a solution of water and dishwashing detergent and also brushed if necessary with a bottle brush. After washing it was again rinsed off with the hose and warm water. Then blown out with compressed air to remove as much water as possible. Then it was baked in a thermostatically controlled electric oven at about 130F for at least 48 hours. I preferred to keep stuff in there for a week if it was available. Then whatever was removed was replaced and the instrument checked on a metered variac. This procedure took off pretty much anything other than serious fungus (that stuff went to the factory and I don't know what they did with it). -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability
- Original Message - From: Eddy Swynar deswy...@xplornet.ca To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, November 25, 2011 11:32 AM Subject: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability Hi All, The manual for my T-4X states that stability is LESS THAN 100 CYCLES AFTER WARM-UP. My question is simply this: how long, exactly, is an accepted period of warm-up...? After all of the hoops that I've jumped through in stabilizing the PTO in my rig (re-buiding it almost, actually!), I decided this morning to actually measure its drift. I used my ICOM 751A transceiver (in general coverage mode) as the frequency umpire, and tuned it directly to the Drake PTO's output frequency of 5454.0-KHz. Both rigs were in the basement overnight, where the ambient room temperature was 59F. I measured the frequency a total of SIX times, i.e. (1) immediately at the start of the test, (2) 3 minutes into the test, (3) 15 minutes into the test, (4) 30 minutes into the test, (5) 1 hour into the test, and finally (6) two hours into the test... Here are my results: (1) 5454.0-KHz (cold start); (2) 5454.0-KHz (unchanged from cold start); (3) 5453.5-KHz (downward drift of 500-Hz from cold start); (4) 5453.0 KHz (downward drift of 1-KHz from cold start); (5) 5452.8-KHz (downward drift of 1.2-KHz from cold start), and, (6) 5452.8-KHz (unchanged). So---it looks like the rascal that I have here stabilizes after a good hour of steady warm-up, which leads me to suspect that maybe warm-up to the writer of the manual was, in fact, just that, i.e. one hour...? No matter, it was a most interesting exercise---and I sure would be curious if my rig's performance might match that of some of the other T-4Xs that are out there...although I dare say, probably not everyone has as thick a hide as I do in being able to withstand a 59F ambient room temperature...! Hi Hi. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ I suspect this is normal. An hour for all parts to reach some sort of thermal equilibrium is not very long. Some equipment takes a lot longer, for instance, somewhere in the TMC literature its stated that the stabilization time for the GPR-90 receiver is 48 hours! I think this is probably typical for a lot of equipment. OTOH perhaps the temperature compensation in your TX is not quite on. The fact that it drifts in the same direction is IMO a good sign. Some compensation results in drift that varies in direction as the temp changes. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question
- Original Message - From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question I replaced the three-section electrolytic in my R-4 with no major problems (that Drake chassis is a huge heat sink - make sure you're using a big iron/gun). After trying to tackle the filter cap removal from my Drake 1A, I began looking for 200-watt soldering irons. I was (and still am) in shock over the price of new, high-wattage irons. I finally found a used, 40+ year old 200-watt Hexacon iron, and it was still nearly $100. Best as I can figure, the price of new Hexacon and American Beauty irons is held up by demand from commercial sheet metal workers. Paul, W9AC You might try local swap meets or junk shops. I've bought several large old soldering irons at such places for a few dollars. You may have to replace the tips but usually you can just file them down a little and re-tin them. I have not looked on ebay for them but its another possibility. Two of my large irons are American Beauty brand and I think the other is Esico both once top brands. The mass of the tip may be more important than the wattage. Modern irons have very little mass so are cooled quickly, for working on old equipment one needs a high mass iron. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question
- Original Message - From: Ed Tanton n...@comcast.net To: 'Don Cunningham' d...@martineer.net; 'Pete Juliano' jessyst...@broadstripe.net; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 12:03 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question I second Don's comments, in both cases. Ed Tanton N4XY And I am another who will vouch for both. Garey has stuff on his disc you will not find elsewhere, particularly the hi-rez photos. I was able to fix a problem I had been struggling with for months with the aid of one of these pictures. Tom's caps, BTW, are newly manufactured, not re-stuffed old cans. They are exactly right. He makes caps for Drake, Hallicrafters and other classic equipment. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Drake Service?
I've used John Kriner and Ron. Both did an excellant job (John went over a T4B/R4B, Ron went over my TR7). Message: 3 Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 22:50:17 -0400 (EDT) From: K9sqg k9...@aol.com To: dwrigh...@neb.rr.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Service? Message-ID: 8ce5f45a156faf1-ae8-2e...@webmail-m050.sysops.aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I'm sure there are others but the best in my opinion are... Jeff, WA8SAJ Ron, WB4HFN John Kriner (the Man) in Middletown, Ohio. Specifics on the above and others are on the WB4HFN Drake website. -Original Message- From: Daniel Wright dwrigh...@neb.rr.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Oct 22, 2011 5:09 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Service? I know I know...the subject has been beaten to death, but I must be honest, I have not paid much attention. I have been able to deal with any and all problems...UNTIL NOW. So who is the best with Drake repair? I have an R4C and a T4XC that both have the dreaded PTO freeze up. The T4XC PTO won't move at all and the R4C is WAY off frequency. I am hearing 14178 at 14478 (I think) on the dial. The R4C has some really nice Sherwood mods and lots of extra crystals. I really really want it to play nicely. Thanks to you guys! A bummed out Drake owner...de Dan -- WA?JRD ps. the rigs have been sitting idle for a couple of years, and I also moved from my house to a bachelor pad. Meaning that they SHOULD have been handled carefully, but I wasn't watching the movers all the time. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20111022/ff1da5cd/attachment-0001.html___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Receiver protection lamp
- Original Message - From: Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2011 6:07 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Receiver protection lamp The TR-3/4 had a fuse lamp between the receiver and antenna to protect the receiver. Since these were mobile rigs the large whip antennas could hit light fixtures in garages (my theory). 73, Bob WW3QB More likely to protect the input circuit if someone else fires up a tranmitter nearby, it would also protect the input from static accumulation from friction on the antenna and from driving through a lightening storm. Serves a similar purpose when used in a fixed location. The lamp is a twin-post lamp with similar characteristics to a No.47 but the base arrangement has less reactance at radio frequencies. I managed to pop one while trouble shooting a TR-4 and had trouble getting replacements locally. Keeping a spare available is a good idea even though they are likely to last forever. If the TR-4 receiver seems dead and its nothing else the lamp is worth looking at. If its open or the contacts are dirty the effect is of no antenna being connected. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
