VACList-Digest Monday, September 3, 2001 Issue 51
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
2. Re: Stabilizer Jacks
3. Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
4. Re: New Bath Sink
5. Re: Tricky Leak
6. Re: Stabilizer Jacks
7. Re: Stabilizer Jacks
8. Re: New Bath Sink
9. A/C Drain Tube
10. Re:
11. 67 GT Rivits
12. 67 GT channel bolts
13. Re:
14. Re: Stabilizer Jacks
15. Re: Stabilizer Jacks
16. Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
17. Re: Manual for a '59
18. Re: Manual for a '59
19. Re: Manual for a '59
20. 1974 Argosy 26'
21. Re: 67 GT Rivits
22. average age of airstreamers
23. Re: average age of airstreamers
24. Re: airstream coverings
25. Re: average age of airstreamers
26. Re: 1974 Argosy 26'
27. New Radio
28. Re: Floor repair part two,1953 flying cloud
29. Re: average age of airstreamers
30. Re: New Radio
31. Flooring
32. Re: average age of airstreamers
33. Re: Flooring
34. Re: Flooring
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 19:29:30 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
After about a month's use following long storage, I've noticed that the
flush value on my Thetford Aqua-Magic doesn't always return to the fully
closed position when you release the flush pedal, resulting in leakage of
water from the bowl to the tank, and leakage of fumes into the coach. It
will close fully if you pull up on the flush lever. The trailer was stored
with a bit of water and antifreeze in the bowl, and everything works fine
otherwise. Is there something I can use to lubricate this seal, or adjust
the valve's return spring, or something to allow it to close tightly without
special attention?
Thanks!
Dan Weeks
75 Argosy 26
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 17:14:55 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks
Thanks, Dave, I didn't catch that in my manual. Seeing how the stabilizers
are attached, I didn't want to take a chance on putting too much strain on
them.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 1:39 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Stabilizer Jacks
> The Owner's manual for my '77 Airstream states:
>
> "If you have the optional B.A.L. stabilizing jacks use the wrench, located
> in the hose carrier, to lower the two units on the low side. Bring the
> trailer to a level position side to side. Lower the opposite stabilizing
> units to a firm position."
>
> This seems to imply that the B.A.L. jacks can be used to level the unit.
>
> Dave
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 18:12:12 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
Hi Dan:
Give it a shot of silicone lubricant. I have to do mine once in a while
too. It tends to stick shut after a long period of non-use if I don't.
That's what Thetford told me to do. If you take it apart, do yourself a big
favor and do it disconnected and away from the holding tank. It can come
apart like a cheap watch and launch parts into the tank if you're not
careful. Believe me....I know.
GQ '67 Safari
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Weeks" To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" Sent: Sunday,
September 02, 2001 5:29 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
> After about a month's use following long storage, I've noticed that the
> flush value on my Thetford Aqua-Magic doesn't always return to the fully
> closed position.....
> Is there something I can use to lubricate this seal, or adjust
> the valve's return spring, or something to allow it to close tightly
without
> special attention?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Weeks
> 75 Argosy 26
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 21:47:53 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New Bath Sink
Thanks, I believe I will do this, after the cork floor is paid for of
course. What sort of a business should I look for. Sheet metal work,
Food service fabricators, I asked my blacksmith and he laughed at me.
But then he doesn't have a brake on his truck.
Daisy
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
>
> There's a lot of weight and exclusivity to Corian. Only selected shops
> are authorized to work it and they seem to have paid a high price for
> that privilege. Lots of bucks per running counter foot, plus lots of
> cost for working it.
>
> Stainless can be worked by the village blacksmith, though if he's good
> at welding and soldering the results are better. I've been told by a
> fine welder that its preferable to use tin/silver solder to attach a
> premade sink to a stainless steel counter top (that's modern plumbing
> solder) because the low temperature prevents warpage. The results are
> then happier than from welding with a stainless steel rod. Thin
> stainless needs a pipe or tubing frame to support it but that need not
> be made of stainless steel. A 36 x 48" polished sheet of 304 stainless
> is $112 at McMaster-Carr. Probably less in a good sheet metal shop. It
> would need a frame and probably a sheet of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood for
> support. Hard maple that size are $170.85 in 1-3/4" thickness. A
> laminate covered bench top, 48 x 30 is $101.90. Just for comparison, a
> 48 x 30 maple topped worked bench is $365.39 (1-3/4" thick) and the same
> size in stainless steel and with galvanized legs is $252.29.
>
> And premade sinks are in all home centers. They tend to have a flat
> ledge just outside the highest part of the lip, just right to solder to
> a sheet of stainless steel to make the sink flush with the counter top.
>
> Gerald J.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 21:58:11 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tricky Leak
Lincoln,
In all fairness, I can't help with the wire, but chances are the leak is
far away from there. Leaks in an AS are inevitable and too hard to
isolate, unless you use a hose. Recaulk the whole trailer. If it
doesn't leak anywhere else, it will soon.
Daisy
soule wrote:
>
> I am trying to track down a leak that seems to originate in the stove
> vent that is (in my '77 tradewind) an integral part of the AS Central
> Control panel. I removed the caulk that ran across the top of the
> moveable vent cover and replaced it with a bead of Vulkem, but that
> didn't seem to help at all. I think that I may need to run some caulk
> along the seams that are under the vent cover, but it is attached to the
> operating lever by a couple of stiff wires. I didn't see an easy to
> disconnect them. Has anyone else encountered a leak in this area? Any
> suggestions?
>
> Lincoln Soule
> 1977 Tradewind
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 22:14:38 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks
I don't get it. If you have the low side's jacks down, how are you going
to level the trailer. Except for deflating the tires, you have to put
something under the wheels on the low side, meaning you have to move the
trailer. The jacks don't look strong enough to me to level my '73 29'er.
and I don't think they are attached to the frame ?
My book is out in the trailer..I'll go see tomorrow.
Daisy
Richard P. Kenan wrote:
>
> At 04:39 PM 9/2/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >The Owner's manual for my '77 Airstream states:
> >
> >"If you have the optional B.A.L. stabilizing jacks use the wrench, located
> >in the hose carrier, to lower the two units on the low side. Bring the
> >trailer to a level position side to side. Lower the opposite stabilizing
> >units to a firm position."
> >
> >This seems to imply that the B.A.L. jacks can be used to level the unit.
>
> To muddy the waters some more: My owner's manual for my '95 (28' Excella)
> says to get the level nearly right, then use the B-A-L jacks to *trim* the
> level, using substantially the same method you outline. Since your '77
> would be much lighter than my '95, it may be that you can do a bit more
> than I can. I'd be very cautious, however. Those stabilizing jacks are
> fairly robust, but the mounting screws can be broken (as mine were).
>
> - Dick
> (5368)
>
> "When I was fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to
> have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished
> at how much he had learned in seven years." - Mark Twain
> Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
> Retired and loving it!
> WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
> Atlanta
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 22:46:02 -0400
From: Blair Prestin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks
>Speaking of stabilizers has any one added them to the 60's trailers.
If so I like your input.
Blair
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 21:24:10 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New Bath Sink
Probably you need a custom food service fabricator or an ambitious
welding shop. I know one shop near here for sure that has made domestic
kitchen counter tops of stainless, he's the one that suggested soldering
with a hard solder to prevent warping the stamped sink. I'm figuring on
a kitchen island of stainless with full round edges and corners,
probably by welding (that is having a welder do the assembly, welding is
not one of my skills) 1-1/2" stainless steel pipe into a frame, then
dropping sheets of stainless steel just inside the pipe to have a no
drip edge and round corners. I can solder so I'll probably do that part
of the assembly, unless I go off and build the island top out of teak.
Teak will be a little easier to shape some places, but not necessarily
cheaper than stainless. I have a small sheet metal brake and squaring
shear, but not big enough for my island design. I know a couple of the
nearby welding shops have larger brakes and shears. My concept of sheet
metal shops tends to be stuck to heating and air conditioning ducts,
though in theory they might make stainless steel counters too. Depends
on their view of what they want to do.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 21:15:54 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: A/C Drain Tube
I was trying to install my new A/C unit today including the drain pan.
I decided just for good measure to blow the drain tube out with my air
compressor.
I had one person putting the air in the tube as I crawled about underneath
trying to find where it drains too.
I could hear the air coming out of the tube on the street side of the coach
near the tires, but could not find the end of the tube that I expected to be
coming out of the belly pan somewhere.
Can anyone tell me where the drain tube finally drains? It is a '71 Safari.
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 01:26:21 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Brian Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 2:54 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 59
> The good news is that the source for older manuals is Secretarial
> Services at (937) 492-8885.
> The bad news is that there were no owners' manuals before 1964.
Thank YOU....I know this site is the best for answers...I also know that a
lot of others will appreciate being brought up to date on the Secretarial
Services info. Anyone have some manuals they want to share for free?
Thanks Brian
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 04:43:00 -0400
From: "DMH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT Rivits
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Did you
replicate the rivits that you drilled out or did you replace them with
something different? Gerald Shippen (GAS)
Hi Gerald,
I replaced the drilled out rivets with Olympic Bulb-Tite Rivets 5-5 and =
dipped each one in Vulkem sealant before installation. Dave
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Did you<BR>replicate the rivits that =
you drilled=20
out or did you replace them with<BR>something different? Gerald Shippen=20
(GAS)<BR><BR><BR>Hi Gerald,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I replaced the drilled out rivets with =
Olympic=20
Bulb-Tite Rivets 5-5 and dipped each one in Vulkem sealant before=20
installation. Dave<BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 05:03:38 -0400
From: "DMH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT channel bolts
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I'm trying to visualize cutting off the bolts attaching the floor to the =
=3D
floor channel. Can you describe what you did? Also, after you drilled =
=3D
out the exterior rivets holding the skin to the frame, what did you do =
=3D
about the aluminum "U" channel at the floor line to which the interior =
=3D
skin is attached? Or is that the bolts that you said were cut off. Isn't =
=3D
access a problem? That channel is bolted to and through the floor I =3D
believe on my Tradewind. Jim Greene
Hi Jim,
I cut the bolts going through the floor channel with a reciprocating saw =
(cut-saw) with a bi-metal blade. I held the saw parallel to the skin as =
possible and cut just under the channel and into the plywood and through =
the bolt working very slowly as not to contact the skin or the channel. =
On some of the bolts I was able to tap in a thin pry bar between the =
channel and plywood and then just cut the bolt. After the bolts were =
cut and the rivets removed I cleaned and repaired the channels as =
necessary and then later reinstalled them over the new floor. Dave
=20
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm trying to visualize cutting off the =
bolts=20
attaching the floor to the =3D<BR>floor channel. Can you describe what =
you did?=20
Also, after you drilled =3D<BR>out the exterior rivets holding the skin =
to the=20
frame, what did you do =3D<BR>about the aluminum "U" channel at the =
floor line to=20
which the interior =3D<BR>skin is attached? Or is that the bolts that =
you said=20
were cut off. Isn't =3D<BR>access a problem? That channel is bolted to =
and through=20
the floor I =3D<BR>believe on my Tradewind. Jim =
Greene<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Jim,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I cut the bolts going through the floor =
channel=20
with a reciprocating saw (cut-saw) with a bi-metal blade. I held=20
the saw parallel to the skin as possible and cut just =
under the=20
channel and into the plywood and through the bolt working very slowly as =
not to=20
contact the skin or the channel. On some of the bolts I was able =
to tap in=20
a thin pry bar between the channel and plywood and then just cut the =
bolt. =20
After the bolts were cut and the rivets removed I cleaned and repaired =
the=20
channels as necessary and then later reinstalled them over the new =
floor. =20
Dave<BR> </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 08:38:15 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
> Anyone have some manuals they want to share for free?
>Thanks Brian
I have the '77 Airstream Owner's Manual and the Service manual.
The Service Manual is way too large to copy/scan in it's entirety, but if
anyone needs selected sections, I am sure we could work something out.
Dave
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'77 Sovereign
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 08:00:22 -0500
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks
I think that there is a reason for naming them "Stabilizing Jacks". If they
were to be used to level the unit, I would expect them to be called
"Leveling Jacks".
>
> The Owner's manual for my '77 Airstream states:
>
> "If you have the optional B.A.L. stabilizing jacks use the wrench, located
> in the hose carrier, to lower the two units on the low side. Bring the
> trailer to a level position side to side. Lower the opposite stabilizing
> units to a firm position."
>
> This seems to imply that the B.A.L. jacks can be used to level the unit.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:05:53 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stabilizer Jacks
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Blair
I haven't yet, but may be putting them on a '66 Ambassador 28'.
Right now just using the little screw stand type.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
From: Blair Prestin
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:05 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Stabilizer Jacks
>Speaking of stabilizers has any one added them to the 60's trailers.
If so I like your input.
Blair
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
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Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Blair</DIV> <D=
IV> </DIV> <DIV>I haven't yet, but may be putting them on a '66 Amba=
ssador 28'.</DIV> <DIV>Right now just using the little screw stand type.<=
/DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQU=
OTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BOR=
DER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt=
Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e=
4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Blair Prestin</DIV> <DI=
V style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:0=
5 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients=
of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] R=
e: Stabilizer Jacks</DIV> <DIV> </DIV><BR>>Speaking of stabilizer=
s has any one added them to the 60's trailers.<BR><BR><BR>If so I like yo=
ur input.<BR><BR>Blair<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>>To unsubscribe or c=
hange to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>>http://airstream.net/=
vaclist/listoffice.html<BR>><BR>>When replying to a message, please=
delete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>To unsubscri=
be or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>http://airstream.n=
et/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a message, please dele=
te all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:12:39 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aqua-Magic Flush Valve
A while ago, I remember a thread about this, Thetford makes a tool to
clean out the slot in the pipe that the flush valve fits into.
Apparently, tp and other unmentionables get stuck it it sometimes.
someone came up with a slightly straightened out coat hanger hook as an
emergency solution.
Daisy
Dan Weeks wrote:
>
> After about a month's use following long storage, I've noticed that the
> flush value on my Thetford Aqua-Magic doesn't always return to the fully
> closed position when you release the flush pedal, resulting in leakage of
> water from the bowl to the tank, and leakage of fumes into the coach. It
> will close fully if you pull up on the flush lever. The trailer was stored
> with a bit of water and antifreeze in the bowl, and everything works fine
> otherwise. Is there something I can use to lubricate this seal, or adjust
> the valve's return spring, or something to allow it to close tightly without
> special attention?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Weeks
> 75 Argosy 26
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 08:43:45 -0700
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manual for a '59
Hi all,
Recently, I purchased my first A/S. It's a '59 Trade Wind and am picking
it up this weekend. Am trying to locate or copy a manual for it. Haven't had
any luck so far. Anyone out there have one they would be willing to copy?
I'll gladly pay you for your time. Thanks.
Brad Norgaard
'59 Trade Wind
Phoenix
WBCCI #2699, VAC
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 09:02:13 -0600
From: Melvin Pierce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manual for a '59
> Recently, I purchased my first A/S. It's a '59 Trade Wind and am picking
> it up this weekend. Am trying to locate or copy a manual for it. Haven't had
> any luck so far. Anyone out there have one they would be willing to copy?
> I'll gladly pay you for your time. Thanks.
>
I do not believe you will find one. If I remember right, 64 is the
first year Airstream put them out. You will just have to ask specific
questions to this list. They will be your best resourse for info.
MCP
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 12:56:56 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manual for a '59
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 11:43
Subject: [VAC] Re: Manual for a '59
> Hi all,
> Recently, I purchased my first A/S. It's a '59 Trade Wind and am picking
> it up this weekend. Am trying to locate or copy a manual for it. Haven't
had
> any luck so far. Anyone out there have one they would be willing to copy?
> I'll gladly pay you for your time. Thanks.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> '59 Trade Wind
> Phoenix
> WBCCI #2699, VAC
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:24:09 -0400
From: "Russ Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1974 Argosy 26'
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Anyone have any special hints on this trailer ? I already own a 1971 =
Safari that we totally redid, so I know what to look for , but now I am =
going to buy this Argosy. (One trailer is not enough, I am addicted). =
It has a rear bath, twin beds, front sofa. In looking at the price v. =
condition charts on the Vintage Airstream site, do those apply to Argosy =
? Or are Argosy trailers not so well known as their silver sisters and =
therefore a little less in price ? Thanks in advance ! =20
Carrie Welch
1971 Safari
WBCCI #8344, VAC
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Anyone have any special hints on this =
trailer=20
? I already own a 1971 Safari that we totally redid, so I know =
what to=20
look for , but now I am going to buy this Argosy. (One trailer is =
not=20
enough, I am addicted). It has a rear bath, twin beds, front =
sofa. =20
In looking at the price v. condition charts on the Vintage Airstream =
site, do=20
those apply to Argosy ? Or are Argosy trailers not so well known =
as their=20
silver sisters and therefore a little less in price ? Thanks in =
advance=20
! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Carrie Welch</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1971 Safari</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WBCCI #8344, =
VAC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:31:37 -0600
From: Gerald or Donna Shippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 67 GT Rivits
Many thanks for your response Dave. It would be great if you could draw a
cross-section diagram of that floor/wall connection and its many parts. I
say this because I may have to replace sections of the floor in my 66
Overlander. Recently I redid the fiberglass tub, so I had it all out of
there and examined the plywood. GAS
>Hi Gerald,
>I replaced the drilled out rivets with Olympic Bulb-Tite Rivets 5-5 and
dipped each one in Vulkem sealant before installation. Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:39:16 -0400
From: "Russ Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: average age of airstreamers
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I missed out on this discussion the first time, I was out camping in my =
trailer instead of fixing it ! My husband and I are both 32, and our =
trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). The addiction started when I was about =
five years old, so I fell in love with the 1970's and older airstreams =
that I would spot here and there. It's great to know there are other =
people out there who love these beautiful trailers. Now I have to =
convince my husband that I can't own just one trailer, I need another =
one...is there a name for this airstream fever ? =20
Carrie Welch
1971 Safari
WBCCI #8344, VAC
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I missed out on this =
discussion the first=20
time, I was out camping in my trailer instead of fixing it ! My =
husband=20
and I are both 32, and our trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). The=20
addiction started when I was about five years old, so I fell in love =
with the=20
1970's and older airstreams that I would spot here and there. It's =
great=20
to know there are other people out there who love these beautiful=20
trailers. Now I have to convince my husband that I can't own =
just one=20
trailer, I need another one...is there a name for this airstream fever=20
? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Carrie Welch</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1971 Safari</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WBCCI #8344, =
VAC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:29:19 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: average age of airstreamers
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...is there a name for this airstream fever ?
I call it 'Aluminitis'.
Tuna (and Dr. Katz)
WBCCI#8862/VAC
'48 Airstream Trailwind/'49 Jeepster
'99 Plymouth Prowler/'83 Burro
'79 Dodge Champion
Reno, NV
--Boundary_(ID_exvaLsYKATsnt0dq8LNqPA)
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>...is there a name for this airstream fever
? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I call it 'Aluminitis'.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tuna (and Dr. Katz)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>WBCCI#8862/VAC</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'48 Airstream Trailwind/'49 Jeepster</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'99 Plymouth Prowler/'83 Burro</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>'79 Dodge Champion</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Reno, NV</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
--Boundary_(ID_exvaLsYKATsnt0dq8LNqPA)--
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:34:23 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: airstream coverings
It would be an option for many ONLY if there was absolutely no movement.
Even plastic moving across the skin will have unwelcome affects on the
finish.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerald or Donna Shippen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:39 PM
Subject: [VAC] airstream coverings
SNIP
I
> noticed many boats dry-docked with various kinds of tarps over them.
However
> one type of covering caught my eye...it seemed to be like shrink wrap
> plastic only quite thick, maybe cream colored or even blue I don't really
> remember the color. Anyway I'm curious if it may be an option to cover
the
> A/S for the winter? I appreciate anyone's input. Thankyou.
>
> GAS
> 66 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:08:12 -0500
From: "David Reilly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: average age of airstreamers
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I was out camping in my trailer instead of fixing it !
WOW, what a concept. You may have something there!! :-) :-)
I need to try this myself.
Thanks, David
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Russ Welch
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 12:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] average age of airstreamers
I missed out on this discussion the first time, I was out camping in my
trailer instead of fixing it ! My husband and I are both 32, and our
trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). The addiction started when I was about five
years old, so I fell in love with the 1970's and older airstreams that I
would spot here and there. It's great to know there are other people out
there who love these beautiful trailers. Now I have to convince my husband
that I can't own just one trailer, I need another one...is there a name for
this airstream fever ?
Carrie Welch
1971 Safari
WBCCI #8344, VAC
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<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial><FONT size=3D2><EM><STRONG>I was out camping in =
my trailer=20
instead of fixing it !</STRONG></EM> </FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WOW, =
what a=20
concept. You may have something there!! :-) =20
:-)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D270090721-03092001>I need to try this =
myself.</SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D840330121-03092001><SPAN =
class=3D270090721-03092001><FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks, David </FONT></SPAN></SPAN></DIV></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Russ =
Welch<BR><B>Sent:</B>=20
Monday, September 03, 2001 12:39 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients =
of=20
VACList<BR><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] average age of=20
airstreamers<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I missed out on this =
discussion the first=20
time, I was out camping in my trailer instead of fixing it ! My =
husband=20
and I are both 32, and our trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). =
The=20
addiction started when I was about five years old, so I fell in love =
with the=20
1970's and older airstreams that I would spot here and there. =
It's great=20
to know there are other people out there who love these beautiful=20
trailers. Now I have to convince my husband that I can't =
own just=20
one trailer, I need another one...is there a name for this airstream =
fever=20
? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Carrie Welch</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>1971 Safari</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WBCCI #8344,=20
VAC</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 14:28:20 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1974 Argosy 26'
Argosy's are an unknown to me, other than I know I like their uniqueness
& looks. I didn't create any of the tables or checklists in the price
vs condition section with Argosy's in mind, but much of it will apply
related to condition and repairs. I will one day probably have to get
around to adding Argosy info at lest to the models list along with some
pictures. In the mean time, I defer all Argosy questions to others,
including Charlie Burke, who one day may have to sum up the models
through 1977 so I can add it to both websites.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> Russ Welch wrote:
>
> Anyone have any special hints on this trailer ? I already own a 1971
> Safari that we totally redid, so I know what to look for , but now I
> am going to buy this Argosy. (One trailer is not enough, I am
> addicted). It has a rear bath, twin beds, front sofa. In looking at
> the price v. condition charts on the Vintage Airstream site, do those
> apply to Argosy ? Or are Argosy trailers not so well known as their
> silver sisters and therefore a little less in price ? Thanks in
> advance !
>
> Carrie Welch
> 1971 Safari
> WBCCI #8344, VAC
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 16:51:59 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: New Radio
I replaced my original Motorola AM/FM radio and 8 track tape with a new
radio and CD player. I was able to mount the new one in the same holder that
the old one was in. I would have probably kept the old radio but I could
never get the eight track to work. If someone is interested in restoring an
original sound system and wants to tinker with the 8 track, I would be happy
to let you have this one, just for the cost of shipping. It is complete and
the radio works fine.
One question, the new unit has a clock that stays on when the power is
turned off. I would guess this would be ok in car since you would be
charging the battery when the car was running. But will this drain my
battery while I have the trailer in storage for long periods of time.
Don Hardman
1976 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 14:56:23 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Floor repair part two,1953 flying cloud
Krista & I completed the first full weekend of work on the '57 Flying
Cloud, but more on that later. We are going to have to replace the
floor on this one, but that won't take place for awhile, as the first
order of business is the running gear and making the shell weather tight.
My guess is about 180-220 hours to remove cabinets and replace the floor
in sections. We'll document it with thoroughness for the website as
usual. I have no idea what a commercial outfit could do it for.
But, if you estimate that it would take them 4 days with 2 guys to do
just the floors, and shop labor/overhead is $60, plus throw in 20% for
materials, then it would be $4600. But you'll never know until you ask,
and wintertime is a good time to have it done, when things are slow.
Best of luck,
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
> > Hello all,
> > I've only been lurking here a little while, but now I need some advice.
> >
> > I have come across a 1953 Flying Cloud that looks pretty good from the
> > pictures, but the floor is bad.
> >
> > From the comments I've heard floor replacement is not an easy task.
> >
> > What would be involved in a total floor replacement in a 21' trailer. I
> > assume all the cabnets would have to come out, etc?
> >
> > Any thoughts on how much it would cost ($1000.00, $5000,00?) to have it
> > done at an airstream repair place (if they do that sort of thing) and
> > what do you think about quaility of work?
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 16:08:43 -0600
From: Gerald or Donna Shippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: average age of airstreamers
Carrie, I'm beginning to get the picture...the average Vintage Airstreamer
is or nearly is, as old as their trailer! The exception being myself at 46
and my trailer at 37! GS
At 01:39 PM 9/3/01 -0400, you wrote:
>I missed out on this discussion the first time, I was out camping in my
trailer instead of fixing it ! My husband and I are both 32, and our
trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). The addiction started when I was about five
years old, so I fell in love with the 1970's and older airstreams that I
would spot here and there. It's great to know there are other people out
there who love these beautiful trailers. Now I have to convince my husband
that I can't own just one trailer, I need another one...is there a name for
this airstream fever ?
>
>Carrie Welch
>1971 Safari
>WBCCI #8344, VAC
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><HTML><HEAD>
><META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
><META content="MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=GENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I missed out on this discussion the first
>time, I was out camping in my trailer instead of fixing it ! My husband
>and I are both 32, and our trailer is 30 (1971 Safari). The
>addiction started when I was about five years old, so I fell in love with the
>1970's and older airstreams that I would spot here and there. It's great
>to know there are other people out there who love these beautiful
>trailers. Now I have to convince my husband that I can't own
just one
>trailer, I need another one...is there a name for this airstream fever
>? </FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Carrie Welch</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>1971 Safari</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>WBCCI #8344, VAC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 18:17:52 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New Radio
Don:
At 04:51 PM 9/3/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>One question, the new unit has a clock that stays on when the power is
>turned off. I would guess this would be ok in car since you would be
>charging the battery when the car was running. But will this drain my
>battery while I have the trailer in storage for long periods of time.
Yes, it will. If you don't have a kill switch (I'm not sure when they
began installing them), you could simply install a simple on/off switch
(Radio Shack) to the clock circuit. The radio I installed in my '72 had
separate 'power' and 'hold' lines, so that the clock would not be reset
when the power is off. Install the switch in the 'hold' line.
- Dick
(5368)
"When I was fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to
have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished
at how much he had learned in seven years." - Mark Twain
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 18:43:20 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Flooring
We plan to put new floor covering in our '77 Sovereign.
We are thinking of either a Pergo-like floor, or sheet linoleum. I would be
interested to hear from folks on the pros and cons of both.
I have heard references to "cork" flooring. What is this? I assume it's not
the same cork that you stick up on walls. Is there a web site that
describes it somewhere?
Thanks!
Dave
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'77 Sovereign
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 18:56:33 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: average age of airstreamers
At 04:08 PM 9/3/01 -0600, you wrote:
>Carrie, I'm beginning to get the picture...the average Vintage Airstreamer
>is or nearly is, as old as their trailer! The exception being myself at 46
>and my trailer at 37! GS
I'm on the opposite end - 47 with a '77 Airstream. :-)
Dave
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'77 Sovereign
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 16:04:05 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Flooring
http://www.corkfloors.com/cork.html
Tuna
'48 Trailwind
WBCCI#8862/VAC
Reno, NV
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 19:18:08 -0400
From: Matt Worner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Flooring
Dave,
Two sites that I've found are:
http://www.corkfloors.com/cork.html
and
http://www.naturalcork.com/Products/product.html
The "corkfloors.com" site also links to their bamboo flooring which is what we
like. Just as a quick guestimate, we figure about $400 for the kitchen, bath
and hallway of our side bath, rear twin Sov. That's for the bamboo, IIRC the
cork was marginally less expensive but not noticeably.
Matt
"David W. Lowrey" wrote:
> We plan to put new floor covering in our '77 Sovereign.
>
> We are thinking of either a Pergo-like floor, or sheet linoleum. I would be
> interested to hear from folks on the pros and cons of both.
>
> I have heard references to "cork" flooring. What is this? I assume it's not
> the same cork that you stick up on walls. Is there a web site that
> describes it somewhere?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
>
> Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> '77 Sovereign
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
--
Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
1975 31' Sovereign, 2000 F-350 PSD, Hensley Arrow
------------------------------
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