VACList-Digest Saturday, August 25, 2001 Issue 42
Today's Topics:
1. Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
2. Re: Jabsco Macerator Pump
3. Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
4. Re: Black Tank for '66 Ambassador Rear Bath
5. Re: zip dee awnings frt/rear
6. Re:
7. Re:
8. Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
9. Re: pre 69 clippy things
10. Re: zip dee awnings frt/rear
11. Re: pre 69 clippy things
12. Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
13. Re: pre 69 clippy things & Catalog
14. Re: pre 69 clippy things
15. Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
16. Charge line isolation question
17. Re: Charge line isolation question
18. Re: Charge line isolation question
19. Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
20. Re: Charge line isolation question
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 20:02:56 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
Just in case this may help someone else -
The AGS 40 fuse is not the proper one for the 12 volt circuit for the 64 GT
- it should be an AGC 40 which is slightly smaller in diameter and fits
properly in the clips. I have not found these yet, but at the suggestion of
the electric "fix it" man that I use, I put in AGC 30s which work so far,
until I can find the 40s. They fit MUCH better, do not have to be forced in
place and now I have 12 volt lights and the fans also work on battery -
Yeah!!!! Also got the gas lamp working with a Coleman clip on mantel that I
had on hand, does anyone know the proper part number for the mantels or will
any propane mantel work?
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 20:52:14 -0400
From: "Sanderson W. Sandy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jabsco Macerator Pump
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Hi Bobby, =20
Why not just buy a Sewer Solution www.sewersolution.com virtually =
no moving parts, clean, quiet, rated to pump 300 feet up a 3 foot =
incline, uses only 1 1/2 inch tubing. I've been using one for almost 3 =
years now and in fact used it this morning at a CG in MD. I'm always =
amazed at how well it works and no more
"stinky slinky"
Walt =
Sandy
S. W. Sandy
WBCCI # 4159 & VAC
Region 2 VAC Representative
1970 27' Overlander
South West New Jersey
Mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi Bobby, </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial> Why not just buy a Sewer =
Solution <A=20
href=3D"http://www.sewersolution.com";>www.sewersolution.com</A> =
virtually no=20
moving parts, clean, quiet, rated to pump 300 feet up a 3 foot incline, =
uses=20
only 1 1/2 inch tubing. I've been using one for almost 3 years now and =
in fact=20
used it this morning at a CG in MD. I'm always amazed at how well it =
works and=20
no more</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial> "stinky slinky"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial> =
=20
=
=20
=
=20
=
=20
Walt Sandy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>S. W. Sandy<BR>WBCCI # 4159 & VAC<BR>Region =
2 VAC=20
Representative<BR>1970 27' Overlander<BR>South West New Jersey<BR>Mail =
to: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
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Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 18:51:49 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
Checking my Allied Industrial Electronics catalog, I don't think you are
going to find an AGC-40. That size fuse (1/4" diameter, 1-1/4" long)
only goes to 30 amps. Bussmann type MDL-30 are slow blow and so will
take load surges better. The 1/4" diameter fuse end is small in cross
section for taking 40 amps. Its marginal for 30 amps.
Littlefuse makes a 35 amp in their equivalent 3AG line. I'm unable to
get any use of the Bussmann fuse page.
Checking another industrial internet site it says AGC come up to 40 amps
ratings.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 21:04:02 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Black Tank for '66 Ambassador Rear Bath
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I think you should be able to find a tank at this site:
http://www.all-rite.com/
Bob Patterson
At 11:47 AM 08/24/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>If someone has a black tank for a rear bath they would like to get rid of,
>please let me know. <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Actually it would be very helpful if someone has one removed and they
>could give me the tank dimensions.
>This is for a '66 Ambassador with rear bath. I do not have one at all.
> From what I understand in my so far futile search, is that each model A/S
>is a little different.
>The dimensions that I need are length, width, height, the location and
>center of each opening plus the depth of recess area where the dump valve
>connects.
>
>Thanks
>Bobby Gill
>'66/'73 Ambassador
>Valdosta, GA
>
>
>
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<html>
I think you should be able to find a tank at this site:
<a href="http://www.all-rite.com/"; eudora="autourl">http://www.all-rite.com/</a><br>
<br>
Bob Patterson<br>
<br>
<br>
At 11:47 AM 08/24/2001 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>If someone has a black tank for a
rear bath they would like to get rid of, please let me know.
<a href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</a> <br>
Actually it would be very helpful if someone has one removed and they
could give me the tank dimensions.<br>
This is for a '66 Ambassador with rear bath. I do not have one at all.
>From what I understand in my so far futile search, is that each model A/S
is a little different.<br>
The dimensions that I need are length, width, height, the location and
center of each opening plus the depth of recess area where the dump valve
connects.<br>
<br>
Thanks<br>
Bobby Gill<br>
'66/'73 Ambassador<br>
Valdosta, GA<br>
<br>
<br>
</blockquote></html>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 18:30:53 -0700
From: Pearl Main <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: zip dee awnings frt/rear
Jim Greene Zip Dee is located at 96 Crossen Elk Grove Village Ill
phone 708 437 0980 they are very helpful and will give you all
kinds of info. I have ZD's both sides and rear and they have been on over 30
years...will not mildew even if rolled up wet and left all winter Pearl in
SoCal now formerly in Illinois
> Speaking of Zip Dee awnings, I'm told that only Zip Dee made/makes hardware
> that fits the contour of the pre-1979 Airstreams. Anybody know where Zip Dee
> awnings can be found. The places from whom I have catalogs don't include Zip
> Dee and DZ's web site doesn't include any retail sources.
>
> Jim Greene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 13:05
> Subject: [VAC] zip dee awnings frt/rear
>
> > Chris, you are right. Zip Dee does make snap on wings. My parents have a
> set
> > on the rear of their Avion.
> >
> > Scott
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 23:45:00 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Hi TOBY!! :)
Anyone have someone to make some nice steel rock guards for a GT? Prefer the
west coast somewhere....
Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 22:11:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
nope - don't know anyone but you, miss oregon, and
Tuna out there.
sorry!
T
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi TOBY!! :)
>
> Anyone have someone to make some nice steel rock
> guards for a GT? Prefer the
> west coast somewhere....
> Thanks
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
http://phonecard.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 03:24:07 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
I just hunted up a Bussmann fuse catalog (2" binder) on my shelf that
I'd forgotten I had. They say you don't want any AGC bigger than 30 amps
the fuse holders can't carry the current. Since they are about the
biggest maker of such fuses and fuse holders (and one I trust), that
says they don't make a 40 amp in AGC size. That's why the AGS were
stuffed in, maybe.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 07:19:11 -0400
From: "Chris Elliot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pre 69 clippy things
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How about the older clip that holds the door open attached to skin , the =
fold out metal kind ? those available anywhere?
Chris 67 with bungee to hold door open
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Robert Gill=20
Re: Black clippy things
Does anyone know where you can get a new one of these clips?
The one that holds the door open is broken and I would like to put one =
back on it.
It's on a '73 Ambassador.=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>How about the older clip that holds the door =
open attached=20
to skin , the fold out metal kind ? those available =
anywhere?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Chris 67 with bungee to hold door =
open</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Robert Gill</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">Re: Black clippy things</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Does anyone know where you can get a new one of these =
clips?</DIV>
<DIV>The one that holds the door open is broken and I would like =
to put=20
one back on it.</DIV>
<DIV>It's on a '73 Ambassador. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 07:58:00 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: zip dee awnings frt/rear
Thanks, Pearl .....
I'll contact them on Monday. Always heard ZipDee was the best.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pearl Main" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 21:30
Subject: [VAC] Re: zip dee awnings frt/rear
>
>
> Jim Greene Zip Dee is located at 96 Crossen Elk Grove Village Ill
> phone 708 437 0980 they are very helpful and will give you
all
> kinds of info. I have ZD's both sides and rear and they have been on
over 30
> years...will not mildew even if rolled up wet and left all winter
Pearl in
> SoCal now formerly in Illinois
>
> > Speaking of Zip Dee awnings, I'm told that only Zip Dee made/makes
hardware
> > that fits the contour of the pre-1979 Airstreams. Anybody know where Zip
Dee
> > awnings can be found. The places from whom I have catalogs don't include
Zip
> > Dee and DZ's web site doesn't include any retail sources.
> >
> > Jim Greene
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 13:05
> > Subject: [VAC] zip dee awnings frt/rear
> >
> > > Chris, you are right. Zip Dee does make snap on wings. My parents have
a
> > set
> > > on the rear of their Avion.
> > >
> > > Scott
> > >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 09:05:08 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pre 69 clippy things
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Hey, Chris ...
Yes, they are. probably available from a RV dealer. I have multiple =
copies of a 2001 RV Parts & Accessories Catalog that RV dealers have as =
give away items with their name on the over. It's 504 pages long, plus =
an index. I assume some big distributor/wholesaler puts these out and =
the dealers buy them with the dealer imprint on the cover.
On page 143, item 31-8880 70-14-006, Catch & Latch $3.49. The rubber =
bumper to stop the door knob is 31-8894 74-14-002 in black at $1.49 or =
31-8895 70-14-003 in white at $1.09.
Lots of RV related hardware items as well as a lot of RV everything. =
Prices listed in the book are high compared to other sources but you =
couldn't get hurt too bad at $3.49.
None of the RV dealers I visit have ALL the stuff in this catalog but =
could order it from their supplier I assume.
Hope this helps.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Chris Elliot=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 7:19
Subject: [VAC] Re: pre 69 clippy things
How about the older clip that holds the door open attached to skin , =
the fold out metal kind ? those available anywhere?
Chris 67 with bungee to hold door open
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY=20
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hey, Chris ...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Yes, they are. probably available from a RV =
dealer. I have=20
multiple copies of a 2001 RV Parts & Accessories Catalog that =
RV=20
dealers have as give away items with their name on the over. It's 504 =
pages=20
long, plus an index. I assume some big distributor/wholesaler puts these =
out and=20
the dealers buy them with the dealer imprint on the cover.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>On page 143, item 31-8880 70-14-006, Catch =
&=20
Latch $3.49. The rubber bumper to stop the door knob is 31-8894 =
74-14-002 in=20
black at $1.49 or 31-8895 70-14-003 in white at =
$1.09.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Lots of RV related hardware items as well as a =
lot of RV=20
everything. Prices listed in the book are high compared to other sources =
but you=20
couldn't get hurt too bad at $3.49.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>None of the RV dealers I visit have ALL the =
stuff in this=20
catalog but could order it from their supplier I assume.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hope this helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>' 68 Tradewind</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Chris Elliot</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August 25, 2001 =
7:19</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: pre 69 =
clippy=20
things</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>How about the older clip that holds the door =
open=20
attached to skin , the fold out metal kind ? those available=20
anywhere?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Chris 67 with bungee to hold door=20
open</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 09:28:05 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
Gerald, thanks for the information on the fuses, which confirms what I had
been told on my fuse search. I asked what could happen if I used the 30
rating instead of the 40, and was told as long as the fuse sat firmly in the
clips, it would not overheat and cause a fire, and would just fail as it is
supposed to do if overloaded. The service man at first was concerned that
the AGCs weren't going to fit tightly in the clips and that they would rattle
around, but this is not the case. Since my usage of power tends to be very
light, I probably won't have any problems. I am amazed that the old fuse
lasted as long as it did. The lighting circuit fuse came apart on one end
and the fan fuse had no visible problem, but didn't work. I have had the
trailer since 1985 so that was 16 years on the one fuse - pretty amazing.
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 06:46:51 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pre 69 clippy things & Catalog
Besides bringing up that the original Bargman door clips are available
for less than $5 at most RV dealers, Jim brings up another good point -
get a copy of that catalog. It is the most handy reference around.
You need to know what Atwood tongue jacks are still available? It's
there . How about a new dual LP tank holder - the whole thing - just
like it was made 40 years ago? In there. The aluminum drip shields for
the '50's Airstream's? Yep. You get the idea. Of course there is all
the newer stuff too, but these gems are buried throughout the catalog.
If you dealer doesn't have one, have your credit card handy for the $5
that Deluxe Trailer in Paramount Calif will charge to ship to to your
door. They will ship anything in the book, too. (562) 531-9123
It's kinda like a Christmas wish book for Trailer People. Maybe Charlie
(American RV) or Chris Bryant might know if their outfits have the
catalog available too.
RJ
> Hey, Chris ...
>
> Yes, they are. probably available from a RV dealer. I have multiple copies of a 2001
>RV Parts & Accessories Catalog that RV dealers have as give away
> items with their name on the over. It's 504 pages long, plus an index. I assume some
>big distributor/wholesaler puts these out and the dealers buy them
> with the dealer imprint on the cover.
> On page 143, item 31-8880 70-14-006, Catch & Latch $3.49. The rubber bumper to stop
>the door knob is 31-8894 74-14-002 in black at $1.49 or
> 31-8895 70-14-003 in white at $1.09.
> Lots of RV related hardware items as well as a lot of RV everything. Prices listed
>in the book are high compared to other sources but you couldn't get
> hurt too bad at $3.49.
> None of the RV dealers I visit have ALL the stuff in this catalog but could order it
>from their supplier I assume.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 11:03:16 -0400
From: "Chris Elliot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pre 69 clippy things
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Thanks , Jim + RJ
Yet another example of the power of this web , info exchanged , ?`s =
answered overnight . And another example of not to assume a part is =
airstream specific , many are generic throughout the industry.
On a different note ( which should be another topic,but..)On the =
bulletin board at airstream central ,I noticed this address ,which seems =
to be the people that make the vinyl stuff for the inside skins of 66 up =
a/s , As I read the post . Certainly do make alot of other wallcoverings =
and stuff which may be usefull to airstreamers
Ozite, A Foss Manufacturing Company
380 Lafayette Road
Hampton, NH USA 03843-5000
Phone: 800.746.4019
603.929.6000
http://www.ozite.com
Chris
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jim Greene=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 9:05 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: pre 69 clippy things
Hey, Chris ...
=20
Yes, they are. probably available from a RV dealer. I have multiple =
copies of a 2001 RV Parts & Accessories Catalog that RV dealers have as =
give away items with their name on the over. =20
Lots of RV related hardware items as well as a lot of RV everything. =
Prices listed in the book are high compared to other sources but you =
couldn't get hurt too bad at $3.49.
None of the RV dealers I visit have ALL the stuff in this catalog but =
could order it from their supplier I assume.
Hope this helps.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind=20
=20
----- Original Message -----=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Thanks , Jim + RJ</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial> Yet another example of the =
power of=20
this web , info exchanged , ?`s answered overnight . And another example =
of not=20
to assume a part is airstream specific , many are generic throughout the =
industry.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial> On a different note ( which =
should be=20
another topic,but..)On the bulletin board at airstream central ,I =
noticed this=20
address ,which seems to be the people that make the vinyl stuff for the =
inside=20
skins of 66 up a/s , As I read the post . Certainly do make alot of =
other=20
wallcoverings and stuff which may be usefull to =
airstreamers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Ozite, A Foss Manufacturing Company<BR>380 =
Lafayette=20
Road<BR>Hampton, NH USA 03843-5000<BR>Phone: =
800.746.4019<BR>603.929.6000<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.ozite.com";>http://www.ozite.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Chris</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Jim=20
Greene</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Multiple=20
recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August 25, 2001 =
9:05=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: pre 69 =
clippy=20
things</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hey, Chris ...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Yes, they are. probably available from a RV =
dealer. I=20
have multiple copies of a 2001 RV Parts & Accessories Catalog =
that RV=20
dealers have as give away items with their name on the =
over. </FONT><FONT=20
face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Lots of RV related hardware items as well as a =
lot of RV=20
everything. Prices listed in the book are high compared to other =
sources but=20
you couldn't get hurt too bad at $3.49.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>None of the RV dealers I visit have ALL the =
stuff in=20
this catalog but could order it from their supplier I =
assume.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hope this helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>' 68 Tradewind</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 15
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 09:15:17 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
A 30 amp fuse is more sensitive to overloads than a 40 amp fuse. Heat
from a loose clip makes the fuse even more sensitive because its a
thermal device with a low melting point metal as the fuse element.
In my experience, large fuses used in mobile applications tend to fail
from vibration and fatigue. Headlight fuses used to fail about every
50,000 miles in my cars and trucks. The surge and operation of the
headlights (incandescent lamps draw a surge about 15 times operating
current at the instant of being turned on) heats the fuse element which
expands. It's constrained by the fuse assembly so bends. Then when the
load is taken off, the fuse element shrinks and straightens the bend.
Eventually the fuse element breaks in the bend. This is a fatigue
failure, not an overload. There's no melting each side of the crack. If
overloaded there would be melting. Sometimes the crack happens where the
fuse element is soldered to the end caps. That you can't see but
sometimes the end cap comes off the fuse. That also is not a sign of
overload. Because there are several different metals in the end cap
(fuse wire allow, solder, and brass cap) there can be corrosion if the
fuse gets wet from condensation and that corrosion can cause an fuse to
open.
So one should always suspect a fuse, when a circuit has no voltage. If
the replacement fuse blows rapidly (in under a year) there might be some
problem in the circuit, such as a wire worn bare by vibration along a
structural member. If a fuse blows in minutes, there's a severe problem
that has to be found and fixed.
Standard electrical safety practice is to choose the fuse size to
protect the wire. E.g. a fuse rating that will keep the wire from
overheating and damaging the insulation. By the National Electrical
Code, #14 copper wire is rated at 15 amps, #12 at 20 amps, and #10 and
30 amps. Smaller fuse sizes are appropriate to protect loads like
motors. In 12 volt applications, we tend to use larger wire to minimize
voltage drop.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 09:18:52 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Charge line isolation question
I seem to recall a thread about isolating the tow-vehicle's charge line to
the trailer battery, but the tompatterson server seems to be unavailable at
the moment for searching... so i thought i'd just put it out there:
Is there a potential problem with having the tow-vehicle's charge line
connected when the trailer's converter/inverter
('univolt'/statpower/intellipower/magnatek) is in operation? I'm wondering
if having the 'univolt' connected to shore-power when the tow-vehicle's
charge line is active, and the vehicle's engine starts, if a 12-volt surge
from the tow-vehicle's alternator could overload the trailer's voltage
converter and damage it?
I think someone mentioned putting a big honkin' diode somewhere on the
charge line, but that seems like it would defeat the purpose of the charge
line... is it a good idea to simply disconnect the shore power before
starting the tow-vehicle's engine?
Tuna
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 14:38:33 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line isolation question
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Good question.
Don't know if this answers it or not, but I have hooked up my tow vehicle=
before while trailer was hooked up to shore power. Maybe dumb luck that =
I didn't have something go wrong, but it worked fine. I had to hook up th=
e tow vehicle to get enough juice to operate the trailer jack, didn't eve=
n think of disconnecting shore power because my trailer battery was so we=
ak. Maybe we both could get a good answer from Gerald Johnson.
Bobby
=20
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Tuna
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 2:07 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Charge line isolation question
=20
I seem to recall a thread about isolating the tow-vehicle's charge line t=
o
the trailer battery, but the tompatterson server seems to be unavailable =
at
the moment for searching... so i thought i'd just put it out there:
Is there a potential problem with having the tow-vehicle's charge line
connected when the trailer's converter/inverter
('univolt'/statpower/intellipower/magnatek) is in operation? I'm wonderin=
g
if having the 'univolt' connected to shore-power when the tow-vehicle's
charge line is active, and the vehicle's engine starts, if a 12-volt surg=
e
from the tow-vehicle's alternator could overload the trailer's voltage
converter and damage it?
I think someone mentioned putting a big honkin' diode somewhere on the
charge line, but that seems like it would defeat the purpose of the charg=
e
line... is it a good idea to simply disconnect the shore power before
starting the tow-vehicle's engine?
Tuna
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Good question.=
</DIV> <DIV>Don't know if this answers it or not, but I have hooked =
up my tow vehicle before while trailer was hooked up to shore power. Mayb=
e dumb luck that I didn't have something go wrong, but it worked fine. I =
had to hook up the tow vehicle to get enough juice to operate the trailer=
jack, didn't even think of disconnecting shore power because my tra=
iler battery was so weak. Maybe we both could get a good answer from Gera=
ld Johnson.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <D=
IV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5p=
x; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> =
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV s=
tyle=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B>=
Tuna</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, August=
25, 2001 2:07 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Multip=
le recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject=
:</B> [VAC] Charge line isolation question</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>I seem =
to recall a thread about isolating the tow-vehicle's charge line to<BR>th=
e trailer battery, but the tompatterson server seems to be unavailable at=
<BR>the moment for searching... so i thought i'd just put it out there:<B=
R><BR>Is there a potential problem with having the tow-vehicle's charge l=
ine<BR>connected when the trailer's converter/inverter<BR>('univolt'/stat=
power/intellipower/magnatek) is in operation? I'm wondering<BR>if having =
the 'univolt' connected to shore-power when the tow-vehicle's<BR>charge l=
ine is active, and the vehicle's engine starts, if a 12-volt surge<BR>fro=
m the tow-vehicle's alternator could overload the trailer's voltage<BR>co=
nverter and damage it?<BR><BR>I think someone mentioned putting a big hon=
kin' diode somewhere on the<BR>charge line, but that seems like it would =
defeat the purpose of the charge<BR>line... is it a good idea to simply d=
isconnect the shore power before<BR>starting the tow-vehicle's engine?<BR=
><BR>Tuna<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest f=
ormat, please go to<BR>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><B=
R>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text=
<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C12D73.9DC7F1E0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 13:28:27 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line isolation question
You want isolation for many things. First off you don't want trailer
electricity use to run the tow vehicle battery down. Not being able to
start when truly boondocking but out of supplies or vacation time can be
a real bummer. Its less fun with woods fire or flood approaching. Worse,
the standard starting battery generally doesn't take being so discharged
without doing permanent damage, which tends to lead it to let you down
even when you think you aren't abusing it.
Second, the wire between the batteries in the tow vehicle harness and
the trailer pigtail isn't large enough to allow the trailer battery to
contribute well to cranking the tow vehicle but may overheat the
insulation to the point of destruction while trying. And the deep cycle
battery in the trailer isn't benefited by being used as a starting
battery.
The classic isolator was a pair of diodes (and is still available) that
went between the alternator and each battery. It lets the tow vehicle
alternator charge either or both batteries as needed by regulating the
alternator according to the system voltage of the tow vehicle
compensating for the inherent voltage drop of the diodes. Its important
that the alternator's regulator sense system voltage not alternator
terminal voltage when using the diode isolator. The diode alternator
fails to work properly with one wire alternators with a built in
regulator. The diode drops in the isolator keeps either battery from
being charged properly.
Today, many vehicle towing package options include a relay that is only
connected while the engine is running. The wire to the trailer battery
is fused and its resistance prevents there being excessive charge
current. This option is easy with a computer to decide the engine is
running. Such a relay might also be operated by the stator connection on
some alternators that only has voltage when the alternator is turning at
a charging speed. In some alternator regulators that stator output was
used to run a relay to operate the dash panel alternator light.
The best absorber of a charging surge from an alternator is a good
battery. There are more voltage surges in a charging system from
inductive kicks from the starter while and just after cranking. Either
isolation scheme, diodes or relay while keep those cranking system
surges away from the trailer. Some can come from large changes in tow
vehicle load such as the air conditioner clutch. Sometimes the
alternator regulator can be slow to shutdown the alternator when a very
large load shuts off, but those load changes happen all the time and the
batteries absorb those kicks.
The output of the trailer charging converter tends to include another
diode (some times a pair of diodes) so that if the tow vehicle charging
is at a higher voltage than the converter's output, the converter will
automatically and instantly be disconnected.
Gerald J.
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 12:31:10 -0600
From: Melvin Pierce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Solution to 12 volt fuse problem
> Also got the gas lamp working with a Coleman clip on mantel that I
> had on hand, does anyone know the proper part number for the mantels or will
> any propane mantel work?
>
there are special ones made that are heavier for traveling in RV's. I
got some from Cabela's, an outdoor supply place. They are online.
MCP
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 18:18:57 -0500
From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line isolation question
Tuna,
With my former puller, a '94 Ford, I plugged the trailer into 110 volt ac
many times while the trailer and truck were connected. No problem ever
resulted. The Ford had a relay which was switched by the ignition switch to
isolate the truck's electrical system when the key was off. The Ford had a
factory towing package. I think I also connected the trailer to 110 vac
while the Ford's engine was running but don't recommend it. My guess is all
Ford's with tow package are the same. I don't know about my replacement
Dodge-Cummins or Chevy/GMC pullers.
Harvey
----- Original Message -----
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 11:18 AM
Subject: [VAC] Charge line isolation question
> Is there a potential problem with having the tow-vehicle's charge line
> connected when the trailer's converter/inverter
> ('univolt'/statpower/intellipower/magnatek) is in operation?
------------------------------
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