VACList-Digest       Thursday, September 6, 2001      Issue 54
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan
        2. Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan
        3. Re: 59
        4. Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan
        5. Re: 1972 Overlander  Beatrice issues
        6. Re: hocks...again.
        7. Re: What will I need to pull it
        8. Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler
        9. Fw: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings
       10. 67 GT window retainer
       11. Re: Shocks...again.
       12. Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler
       13. Re: 1972 Overlander  Beatrice issues
       14. OPV Valve conversion
       15. Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler
       16. Re: OPV Valve conversion
       17. CO & LP Gas Detectors
       18. Winterizing?
       19. Re: Winterizing?
       20. Re: Winterizing?
       21. Re: Winterizing?
       22. Re: Shocks...again.
       23. Vintage tow vehicle (1972); update
       24. Re: Rocky Mtn Rally pictures




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:05:22 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan

I just finished installing my Penguin A/C with the drain pan.  I think I
followed the instructions as best I could.

But it looks a little funny sitting on that drain pan.  I put the pan down
first with vulkum all around the hole.  Then the A/C unit on top of that
using its gasket as a seal.

The Penquin only comes with three bolts to hold it on from the inside.  Two
in the front and one on the rear right.  That seems cheezy to me.  It should
at least have four bolts evenly spaced.

The old armstrong A/C had around 65 rivets plus 4 huge bolts holding it on
....

Anyway, if someone has a close up picture of a Penquin A/C unit on top of
drain pan, I would like to see it.

Here are a couple of links to my photos.

http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0051.JPG

http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0052.JPG

-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302





------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:28:41 -0500
From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan

Tim,

I've never installed one but I have been on the roof of several and
observed.  It does seem that yours looks a little odd......possibly stands
up to high??  I don't remember ever seeing the drain pan before.

Could it be that the drain pan is intended to be recessed into the top skin?

Maybe someone who has done it or has seen the installation done will
comment.

Harvey

----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Shephard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:05 PM
Subject: [VAC] Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan


> I just finished installing my Penguin A/C ........ it looks a little funny
sitting on that drain pan.



------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:50:18 -0700
From: Brian Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 59

Wendy,

If you get a lead on any more documentation on the 59 models, or any 
other old Airstreams, I'd be glad to scan and post it on the website 
and return it to you.

I also just realised that you said "You lucky 59 owners...I still 
have a few of those". Does this mean you have a sizeable collection 
of older silver beauties?

I also missed the opportunity in my earlier reply for a bit of 
self-promotion, I have a (free, non-commercial) website, 
http://www.airstreamclassics.com which has a bunch of technical data 
and factory service tips from around 1959 to about 1968. Feel free to 
drop by and see if there is anything of any interest.

Cheers,
Brian



>Carl and Brad;
>You lucky 59 owners...I still have a few of those. There is a source 
>for manuals of older models. Can someone please enlighten us on 
>where to obtain those?
>Thanks,
>Wendy
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:55:58 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan

Tim,
I just finished installing the drain pan on my 1968 Sovereign. It will fit 
into the 14" X 14" opening only the rest of it will sit on the top skin of 
the coach. The AC unit will sit into the pan and after you tighten it down 
will fit tight to the pan. Seal around the hole in the skin but look at the 
bottom of the drain pan and note the gaps and seal those as well. I had to 
seal more than around the opening because of the openings in the pan. Overall 
it fit into the pan quite well and looks OK even though it looks a little odd 
in the pan.
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign
59 Traveler


------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 19:59:44 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1972 Overlander  Beatrice issues

Jack Honeycutt wrote:

> At 10:44 AM 9/5/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>
>   I had one of these for awhile, and although it was one of the
> >infamous 'Beatrice' Airstreams (an unreinforced rear-bath with some evidence
> >of the rear-bath 'sag')
>
> Was this a issue with all Overlander models?  Looking at a list, I see the
> Overlander was in production  for quite some time.
>
> jack

This problem was caused by the addition of a gray water tank in 1973 and was not
cured in production until 1976. Of course it didn't show up for the first couple
of years they built them that way. It was almost always limited to the 31 rear
bath models. The added weight of the gray tank full of water developed enough
dynamic loading that the frame would sag in back. The most apparent result was a
ripple or wave radiating at a 45 deg angle out from the corners of the wheel
wells. The problem can be fixed. Airstream developed a frame truss kit for it.
You can see if a suspect coach has had the modification by looking in the wheel
well behind the tires. If you see a perforated plate bolted to the frame rail the
coach has been fixed.

Charlie



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:23:14 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: hocks...again.

"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:

> Jim Dunmyer wrote:
> >
> > Jamie,
> <SNIP>
> > That said, if your Dura-Torque axles are 30 years old, I've seen it
> > recommended here that they probably need replacement. The rubber
> > "springs" do have a finite life.
> >
> >                                                <<Jim>>
> >
> Doesn't Dura-Torque rebuild axles for less than the price of new ones?
>
> Gerald J.
>

Until recently, that was the case. About 3 weeks ago I talked to Jim
Kitzmueller at Henschen about another matter. In the course of the
conversation I asked him about that service. He told me then they had
stopped offering that service. It seems that when they took a close look at
the labor costs involved a new axle cost was not that different.

Charlie



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 23:19:43 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: What will I need to pull it

Scott:

At 03:38 PM 9/5/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>The problem with your Suburban (as well as the one you passed going 25 mph)
>was most likely a rear end gear ratio designed for fuel economy, not for
>towing. Properly equipped the Suburban makes an excellent tow vehicle.

Absolutely right, I agree completely.  Plus, a large number of people tow 
large trailers with a 1/2 ton Suburban and gear ratios around 3.72.  I 
haven't tried my 1999 454/4.1:1 'Burb in the Rockies, but my 1984 
454/3.21:1 pulled an 8% grade in Utah last summer without complaint, but 
with some slowing down to 35-40 mph.  I'll never be able to figure out why 
the guy I bought it from chose that rear-end ratio, but it illustrates your 
point.

- Dick
(5368)

"When I was fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to 
have the old man around.  But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished 
at how much he had learned in seven years."  -  Mark Twain
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:55:25 -0700
From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler

Hi Everybody,

Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler...
I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere.

The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it seems
to be missing parts inside and I have no key.
I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm
hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door
assembly needs.  As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to
know what handle I'm fitting on it.  If you have one you might want to let
go of, please call or email me.  I'd appreciate any other suggestions, too.
Thank you.

telephone:  604.487.1566  (you can leave a message and I'll return your
call)

email         [EMAIL PROTECTED]


Cindy




------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 00:42:10 -0700
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Oops, here is smaller photo file.
Terry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > I have been searching online for a picture of one of the older
> > AS with the window awnings so I can have them duplicated. > advance,
Diane
>
> Hi Diane
> Here is a photo of awning on my 60 Overlander. They attach with a snap on
> each corner of the window. Pretty low tech but effective. I also have
> matching wheel well covers. They all cane with the trailer so I'm not sure
> how old they are.
>
>  Zip Dee also make the roller awnings for individual windows.
>
> Terry O'Neill
> Calgary
> 60 Overlander International Double
> 66 Tradewind Double
> WBCCI 4786
> VAC
> http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
>

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Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 05:30:52 -0400
From: "DMH" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 67 GT window retainer

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Thanks for the info on the retainer strips.  Dave

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the info on the retainer =
strips.&nbsp;=20
Dave</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:23:19 +0000
From: "Jamie Swallow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shocks...again.

Thanks for the info...I really appreciate the responses.  I'll spend some 
time today looking through the archives for anything related to the Dexter 
axles.

I can order brand new Dura-torque axles for $750 each, (Cdn), including new 
brakes and wheel assemblies, so I think that's the route I'm going to take.  
I'm just trying to decide if it would hurt to upgrade the axle ratings from 
the original #2800lbs. each, to new 3500lb. axles.

Jamie

<<Greater load rating means stiffer springs and without the load to
depress the springs can mean a rougher ride with or without shocks.
Early single axle Airstreams suffered from that, though I suspect after
decades of neglect that the shocks on my Caravel may be a little stiff
from rust and the dura torque axles may have settled to the stops (which
may be the shocks).

Gerald>>


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:30:38 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler

Cindy,

My '60 Overlander once had a Bargman L77. It seems like Airstream used it
for only two or three years. Our lock mechanism had worn out and the outer
handle broke on us twice. I looked for years to find a new L77, or at least
parts. I could not find anything. I finally gave up and installed a Bargman
99. It is in much greater use and parts are abundant. It has a round knob
instead of a handle. An aluminum patch was needed on both the outside and
inside to close in the hole due to the smaller size of the 99.

Scott
1960 Overlander

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler


> Hi Everybody,
>
> Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler...
> I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere.
>
> The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it seems
> to be missing parts inside and I have no key.
> I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm
> hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door
> assembly needs.  As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to
> know what handle I'm fitting on it.  If you have one you might want to let
> go of, please call or email me.  I'd appreciate any other suggestions,
too.
> Thank you.
>




------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 06:59:54 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1972 Overlander  Beatrice issues

I have a '76 31' rear bath Sov, and see no indication of the frame
separation, but am still wondering about it. Someone has added a larger gray
water tank just aft of the axles, and a valve to divert the wast into it,
but the original tank is still in the line as well.

Any idea of at what point in the '76 production run they changed the setup?

Bob Hightower

----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:59 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues


>
> This problem was caused by the addition of a gray water tank in 1973 and
was not
> cured in production until 1976.



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:52:15 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: OPV Valve conversion

My Aluminium LP tanks on my '77 Sovereign were re-certified 5 years ago. 
However, they will need to be converted to OPV valve before the middle of 
next year.

I have seen "adapters" that will convert the older type of valve into the 
newer type, but this does not have an overflow protection device.

If I just use the convertors (I will have to adapt the regulator hoses as 
well), will that be "legal" (i.e. will most LP gas places refill them that 
way)?

Does anyone sell the "official" conversion kits, containing the overflow 
device? if so, can I install it myself?

Dave

__________________________________________________________________________
  Dave Lowrey             | E-Mail:     [EMAIL PROTECTED]
                          | mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...



------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 11:06:22 -0400
From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler

Cindy, I don't know which RV parts distributor puts out a 504 page catalog
that dealers give away but whoever it is shows a Bargman lock with a handle
as well as a Bargman with round knobs as shown on Greg's photos. I know
nothing about Bargman models numbers or the suitability of the currently
available locks for your ' 59 trailer. It looks like a work around is
available since the Bargman L77 locks don't seem to be available.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:30
Subject: [VAC] Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler


> Cindy,
>
> My '60 Overlander once had a Bargman L77. It seems like Airstream used it
> for only two or three years. Our lock mechanism had worn out and the outer
> handle broke on us twice. I looked for years to find a new L77, or at
least
> parts. I could not find anything. I finally gave up and installed a
Bargman
> 99. It is in much greater use and parts are abundant. It has a round knob
> instead of a handle. An aluminum patch was needed on both the outside and
> inside to close in the hole due to the smaller size of the 99.
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:55 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler
>
>
> > Hi Everybody,
> >
> > Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler...
> > I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere.
> >
> > The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it
seems
> > to be missing parts inside and I have no key.
> > I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm
> > hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door
> > assembly needs.  As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to
> > know what handle I'm fitting on it.  If you have one you might want to
let
> > go of, please call or email me.  I'd appreciate any other suggestions,
> too.
> > Thank you.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:22:56 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OPV Valve conversion

Dave,
 That "adaptor" is only for the connection, the valve itself contains
the actual OPD float and fill shut-off. You'll have to take the tanks to
an outfit that does such work so they can install the valves and
"certify" the tanks for another 5 years. The certification consists of
nothing more than a cursory inspection by a "qualified technician", who
then stamps the new date on the collar.

I think that April 1, 2002 is the cutoff date, after which ALL propane
tanks of 40# and under must have the OPD valves. Although most places
don't check the certification date, they'll surely notice the lack of an
OPD valve. Some won't care, but you'll run into the occassional person
who will; I had a tank date checked this summer when getting it filled.
You may be able to sweet-talk the guy into filling your tank, but maybe
not.

You will not have to convert your hoses, as the OPD valves still
incorporate the old-style LH threaded connection. However, if the hoses
need replacing anyway, you should use the new pigtails because they
don't require tools to connect/disconnect. Camping World sells 'em,
along with your friendly propane dealer.

OPD conversion cost seems to run in the $25.00-$35.00 range, plus
filling.

                                       <<Jim>>

"David W. Lowrey" wrote:
> 
> My Aluminium LP tanks on my '77 Sovereign were re-certified 5 years ago.
> However, they will need to be converted to OPV valve before the middle of
> next year.
> 
> I have seen "adapters" that will convert the older type of valve into the
> newer type, but this does not have an overflow protection device.
> 
> If I just use the convertors (I will have to adapt the regulator hoses as
> well), will that be "legal" (i.e. will most LP gas places refill them that
> way)?
> 
> Does anyone sell the "official" conversion kits, containing the overflow
> device? if so, can I install it myself?
> 
> Dave
> 
>
-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:43:13 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: CO & LP Gas Detectors

One of the things missing from my Airstream are CO/LP/Smoke detectors.

I would like to install these, and i was wondering what brands/models other 
folks use.

Does anyone make an "integrated" model so that I dont have three ugly boxes 
marring the beauty of the interior?

Dave

Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

'77 Sovereign
Cincinnati, Ohio



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 09:50:45 -0600
From: Michael Matheny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Winterizing?

Greetings, all.

I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the 
time being...

And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight...

So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding 
winterizing the old 'stream.

Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time 
rv/camper/airstream person?

In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a 
grey water tank.

Thanks in advance!
-- 

- Michael

  - - - - - - - -

Michael (and Cat) Matheny
Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado
1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22'

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:09:11 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winterizing?

Michael,
 Here's Fred Tinseth's procedure:

http://www.phrannie.org/storeRV.html

As an alternative to the "blowdown" method, you can disconnect the inlet
to the water pump and drop a hose into a jug of RV Antifreeze and pump
it through the system.

                                    <<Jim>>

Michael Matheny wrote:
> 
> Greetings, all.
> 
> I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the
> time being...
> 
> And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight...
> 
> So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding
> winterizing the old 'stream.
> 
> Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time
> rv/camper/airstream person?
> 
> In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a
> grey water tank.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> --
> 
> - Michael
> 
>   - - - - - - - -
> 
> Michael (and Cat) Matheny
> Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado
> 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22'
> 
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 

-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:02:22 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winterizing?

Michael Matheny wrote:
> 
> Greetings, all.
> 
> I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the
> time being...
> 
> And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight...
> 
> So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding
> winterizing the old 'stream.
> 
> Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time
> rv/camper/airstream person?
> 
> In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a
> grey water tank.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> --
> 
> - Michael
> 
>   - - - - - - - -
> 
> Michael (and Cat) Matheny
> Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado
> 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22'
> 
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> 
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> 
> 

Hi Michael:

   First I'd gravity drain all the tanks and lines by
removing or opening all drain plugs until water flow stops,
including the three on the floor under the cabinet near your
water heater.  Then reattach or close all drain plugs to
allow pressure to build, then open the faucets to blow out
all the undrained water line water with compressed air by a
hose attached to the pressurized line water intake
connection.  Let 'er blow for a while.  Then remove all
drain trap plugs for the winter and leave the faucets
partially open so the little water remaining, if any, can
evaporate.  If any low spot looks like it might still
contain water, disconnect a nearby hose or joint and let the
water drain out.   

    Worked for me.  

Best regards,

Fred C. in Denver


------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:21:15 -0700
From: Brian Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Winterizing?

<ShamelessPlug>

There is a copy of the 1965 Winterizing instructions from the factory 
at 
http://www.airstreamclassics.com/DetailPages/Docs/Water/Winterize65.ht 
ml

Probably not an exact match to a '63, but it should be close enough 
to give you an idea.

</ShamelessPlug>

Cheers,
Brian


------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:51:16 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shocks...again.

The trailer will ride rough with the 3500 pound axles and the shocks
won't help the rough ride. Matching the springs to the load lets them
have more compliance for letting the wheels follow the convolutions and
chuck holes of the road surface.

Gerald J.


------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:03:43 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Vintage tow vehicle (1972); update

At 05:36 PM 9/5/2001 -0500, you wrote:

>The GVWR figure of 8100 pounds you quoted is for the truck plus carried
>weight versus gross combined weight rating which includes the total weight
>of the puller as well as the total weight of the trailer.  I don't know if
>the domestic light truck manufacturers provided GCWR figures in that era.
>My best guess for GCWR would be around 10,000 to 12,000 pounds for adequate
>performance.

Searching the door plates, I have just found another stamp.  It says:

GAWR Front= 31500
GAWR Rear= 5300

Does this change anything?

  I think an F250 Camper Special with 390 engine was
>likely to be equipped with the old C-6 automatic transmission which was a
>tough transmission.

I just picked up a original shop manual so I could figure out the ID 
codes.  If I am reading it correctly, I have a C-4 Automatic transmission.

>There are two more bits of information that would be helpful in offering an
>opinion as to how much trailer you can tow.  What is the rear axle or
>differential ratio?  You should be able to find a code on a tag on the
>driver's door frame.  The letter-number code can probably be deciphered by a
>Ford dealer and it is probably still the same code in use in '90s era Ford
>trucks.  My guess is it is a 3.73:1 but it could be a 4.11:1.  Either will
>be good for towing but not for fuel mileage.

I am new to this, but it looks like it is 3.54.1  Could this be correct?

>The other relevant factor is tire size or, more precisely, diameter.  Those
>trucks were originally equipped with the old style bias ply 7.50x16 8 or 10
>ply tires.  They were a pretty tall tire which reduces the effective final
>drive ratio.

The tires on it are tall. They are LT 235/85R 16 M/S

Would this be a good size for the truck if I were towing a trailer?

>Having said all of that, if you want to maintain adequate performance with a
>safety and performance margin as you said (and I agree), my recommendation
>would be to limit your gross trailer weight (including propane, water,
>clothing, food, personal items) to around 6000 pounds.

OK.  Assuming the above new information I have posted does not change that 
number, I'll use it.

>Airstreams of similar lengths became heavier in each decade.    If you are
>seeking a trailer of the same era as your puller, i.e. a '71 to '72 for
>example, a 27' Overlander (or smaller) would probably make an excellent
>candidate.

If I wanted to restore (not go completely nuts, but bring a Airstream back 
to it's original look) are 1970's models easier to find equipment for, than 
say, the 1960's?

OK.  I think I got it:

1)  About 6,000 pounds or lighter
2)  A 27 foot Overlander or smaller

Thanks for the good info!

jack in Portland Oregon








------------------------------

Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 13:21:14 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rocky Mtn Rally pictures


----- Original Message -----
> Roger,
>
> Great clear photos of the rally.  I really regret missing it, even more so
> now that I saw the people, trailers, and the beautiful scenery in the
> background.
>
> I had originally planned to attend but my wife, who works as opposed to
> loafing as I do, scheduled her summer vacation and wanted to go to
> Yellowstone and Grand Teton.  I had to honor her wishes.  Had she selected
a
> different time I could have done both.  Oh well.  I hope to be able to
> attend next year.
>
> Harvey
>

Harvey,

We went to Yellowstone and Grand Teton right after the RM Rally was
complete.
I have posted some pics at http://home.att.net/~n7kt/wsb/index.html if you'd
like to see them.

Regards,

Roger

Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]




------------------------------


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