VACList-Digest Thursday, September 6, 2001 Issue 54 Today's Topics: 1. Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan 2. Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan 3. Re: 59 4. Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan 5. Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues 6. Re: hocks...again. 7. Re: What will I need to pull it 8. Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler 9. Fw: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings 10. 67 GT window retainer 11. Re: Shocks...again. 12. Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler 13. Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues 14. OPV Valve conversion 15. Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler 16. Re: OPV Valve conversion 17. CO & LP Gas Detectors 18. Winterizing? 19. Re: Winterizing? 20. Re: Winterizing? 21. Re: Winterizing? 22. Re: Shocks...again. 23. Vintage tow vehicle (1972); update 24. Re: Rocky Mtn Rally pictures ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message Number: 1 Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:05:22 -0700 From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan I just finished installing my Penguin A/C with the drain pan. I think I followed the instructions as best I could. But it looks a little funny sitting on that drain pan. I put the pan down first with vulkum all around the hole. Then the A/C unit on top of that using its gasket as a seal. The Penquin only comes with three bolts to hold it on from the inside. Two in the front and one on the rear right. That seems cheezy to me. It should at least have four bolts evenly spaced. The old armstrong A/C had around 65 rivets plus 4 huge bolts holding it on .... Anyway, if someone has a close up picture of a Penquin A/C unit on top of drain pan, I would like to see it. Here are a couple of links to my photos. http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0051.JPG http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0052.JPG -Tim [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim eFax (508) 590-0302 ------------------------------ Message Number: 2 Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:28:41 -0500 From: "Harvey Barlow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan Tim, I've never installed one but I have been on the roof of several and observed. It does seem that yours looks a little odd......possibly stands up to high?? I don't remember ever seeing the drain pan before. Could it be that the drain pan is intended to be recessed into the top skin? Maybe someone who has done it or has seen the installation done will comment. Harvey ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Shephard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: [VAC] Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan > I just finished installing my Penguin A/C ........ it looks a little funny sitting on that drain pan. ------------------------------ Message Number: 3 Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:50:18 -0700 From: Brian Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 59 Wendy, If you get a lead on any more documentation on the 59 models, or any other old Airstreams, I'd be glad to scan and post it on the website and return it to you. I also just realised that you said "You lucky 59 owners...I still have a few of those". Does this mean you have a sizeable collection of older silver beauties? I also missed the opportunity in my earlier reply for a bit of self-promotion, I have a (free, non-commercial) website, http://www.airstreamclassics.com which has a bunch of technical data and factory service tips from around 1959 to about 1968. Feel free to drop by and see if there is anything of any interest. Cheers, Brian >Carl and Brad; >You lucky 59 owners...I still have a few of those. There is a source >for manuals of older models. Can someone please enlighten us on >where to obtain those? >Thanks, >Wendy > > > >To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to >http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > ------------------------------ Message Number: 4 Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:55:58 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Duo Therm A/C w/ Drain pan Tim, I just finished installing the drain pan on my 1968 Sovereign. It will fit into the 14" X 14" opening only the rest of it will sit on the top skin of the coach. The AC unit will sit into the pan and after you tighten it down will fit tight to the pan. Seal around the hole in the skin but look at the bottom of the drain pan and note the gaps and seal those as well. I had to seal more than around the opening because of the openings in the pan. Overall it fit into the pan quite well and looks OK even though it looks a little odd in the pan. Ed WBCCI/VAC 4425 68 Sovereign 59 Traveler ------------------------------ Message Number: 5 Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 19:59:44 -0600 From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues Jack Honeycutt wrote: > At 10:44 AM 9/5/2001 -0700, you wrote: > > I had one of these for awhile, and although it was one of the > >infamous 'Beatrice' Airstreams (an unreinforced rear-bath with some evidence > >of the rear-bath 'sag') > > Was this a issue with all Overlander models? Looking at a list, I see the > Overlander was in production for quite some time. > > jack This problem was caused by the addition of a gray water tank in 1973 and was not cured in production until 1976. Of course it didn't show up for the first couple of years they built them that way. It was almost always limited to the 31 rear bath models. The added weight of the gray tank full of water developed enough dynamic loading that the frame would sag in back. The most apparent result was a ripple or wave radiating at a 45 deg angle out from the corners of the wheel wells. The problem can be fixed. Airstream developed a frame truss kit for it. You can see if a suspect coach has had the modification by looking in the wheel well behind the tires. If you see a perforated plate bolted to the frame rail the coach has been fixed. Charlie ------------------------------ Message Number: 6 Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:23:14 -0600 From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: hocks...again. "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote: > Jim Dunmyer wrote: > > > > Jamie, > <SNIP> > > That said, if your Dura-Torque axles are 30 years old, I've seen it > > recommended here that they probably need replacement. The rubber > > "springs" do have a finite life. > > > > <<Jim>> > > > Doesn't Dura-Torque rebuild axles for less than the price of new ones? > > Gerald J. > Until recently, that was the case. About 3 weeks ago I talked to Jim Kitzmueller at Henschen about another matter. In the course of the conversation I asked him about that service. He told me then they had stopped offering that service. It seems that when they took a close look at the labor costs involved a new axle cost was not that different. Charlie ------------------------------ Message Number: 7 Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 23:19:43 -0400 From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: What will I need to pull it Scott: At 03:38 PM 9/5/2001 -0400, you wrote: >The problem with your Suburban (as well as the one you passed going 25 mph) >was most likely a rear end gear ratio designed for fuel economy, not for >towing. Properly equipped the Suburban makes an excellent tow vehicle. Absolutely right, I agree completely. Plus, a large number of people tow large trailers with a 1/2 ton Suburban and gear ratios around 3.72. I haven't tried my 1999 454/4.1:1 'Burb in the Rockies, but my 1984 454/3.21:1 pulled an 8% grade in Utah last summer without complaint, but with some slowing down to 35-40 mph. I'll never be able to figure out why the guy I bought it from chose that rear-end ratio, but it illustrates your point. - Dick (5368) "When I was fourteen, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be twenty-one, I was astonished at how much he had learned in seven years." - Mark Twain Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672 Retired and loving it! WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella Atlanta mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/ ------------------------------ Message Number: 8 Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 20:55:25 -0700 From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler Hi Everybody, Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler... I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere. The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it seems to be missing parts inside and I have no key. I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door assembly needs. As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to know what handle I'm fitting on it. If you have one you might want to let go of, please call or email me. I'd appreciate any other suggestions, too. Thank you. telephone: 604.487.1566 (you can leave a message and I'll return your call) email [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cindy ------------------------------ Message Number: 9 Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2002 00:42:10 -0700 From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fw: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00EE_01C1964A.F9A263C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Oops, here is smaller photo file. Terry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 10:10 PM Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Window Awnings > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > I have been searching online for a picture of one of the older > > AS with the window awnings so I can have them duplicated. > advance, Diane > > Hi Diane > Here is a photo of awning on my 60 Overlander. They attach with a snap on > each corner of the window. Pretty low tech but effective. I also have > matching wheel well covers. They all cane with the trailer so I'm not sure > how old they are. > > Zip Dee also make the roller awnings for individual windows. > > Terry O'Neill > Calgary > 60 Overlander International Double > 66 Tradewind Double > WBCCI 4786 > VAC > http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html > ------=_NextPart_000_00EE_01C1964A.F9A263C0 Content-Type: image/jpeg; name="awning.jpg" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="awning.jpg" /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAgEAWgBaAAD/7QE6UGhvdG9zaG9wIDMuMAA4QklNA+0AAAAAABAAWgAAAAEA AQBaAAAAAQABOEJJTQPzAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAAE4QklNJxAAAAAAAAoAAQAAAAAAAAACOEJJTQP1 AAAAAABIAC9mZgABAGxmZgAGAAAAAAABAC9mZgABAKGZmgAGAAAAAAABADIAAAABAFoAAAAGAAAA AAABADUAAAABAC0AAAAGAAAAAAABOEJJTQQAAAAAAAACAAA4QklNBAIAAAAAAAIAAFBIVVQINQAA AAAARAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAUEhVVAg0AAAAAAAEAAAAADhCSU0EBgAAAAAABwACAAAAAQEA//4AJ0Zp 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Dave ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C13695.17F76200 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks for the info on the retainer = strips. =20 Dave</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C13695.17F76200-- ------------------------------ Message Number: 11 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:23:19 +0000 From: "Jamie Swallow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shocks...again. Thanks for the info...I really appreciate the responses. I'll spend some time today looking through the archives for anything related to the Dexter axles. I can order brand new Dura-torque axles for $750 each, (Cdn), including new brakes and wheel assemblies, so I think that's the route I'm going to take. I'm just trying to decide if it would hurt to upgrade the axle ratings from the original #2800lbs. each, to new 3500lb. axles. Jamie <<Greater load rating means stiffer springs and without the load to depress the springs can mean a rougher ride with or without shocks. Early single axle Airstreams suffered from that, though I suspect after decades of neglect that the shocks on my Caravel may be a little stiff from rust and the dura torque axles may have settled to the stops (which may be the shocks). Gerald>> _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Message Number: 12 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:30:38 -0400 From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler Cindy, My '60 Overlander once had a Bargman L77. It seems like Airstream used it for only two or three years. Our lock mechanism had worn out and the outer handle broke on us twice. I looked for years to find a new L77, or at least parts. I could not find anything. I finally gave up and installed a Bargman 99. It is in much greater use and parts are abundant. It has a round knob instead of a handle. An aluminum patch was needed on both the outside and inside to close in the hole due to the smaller size of the 99. Scott 1960 Overlander ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:55 PM Subject: [VAC] Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler > Hi Everybody, > > Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler... > I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere. > > The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it seems > to be missing parts inside and I have no key. > I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm > hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door > assembly needs. As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to > know what handle I'm fitting on it. If you have one you might want to let > go of, please call or email me. I'd appreciate any other suggestions, too. > Thank you. > ------------------------------ Message Number: 13 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 06:59:54 -0700 From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues I have a '76 31' rear bath Sov, and see no indication of the frame separation, but am still wondering about it. Someone has added a larger gray water tank just aft of the axles, and a valve to divert the wast into it, but the original tank is still in the line as well. Any idea of at what point in the '76 production run they changed the setup? Bob Hightower ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:59 PM Subject: [VAC] Re: 1972 Overlander Beatrice issues > > This problem was caused by the addition of a gray water tank in 1973 and was not > cured in production until 1976. ------------------------------ Message Number: 14 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:52:15 -0400 From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: OPV Valve conversion My Aluminium LP tanks on my '77 Sovereign were re-certified 5 years ago. However, they will need to be converted to OPV valve before the middle of next year. I have seen "adapters" that will convert the older type of valve into the newer type, but this does not have an overflow protection device. If I just use the convertors (I will have to adapt the regulator hoses as well), will that be "legal" (i.e. will most LP gas places refill them that way)? Does anyone sell the "official" conversion kits, containing the overflow device? if so, can I install it myself? Dave __________________________________________________________________________ Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] | mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Trying hard to recreate what's never been created... ------------------------------ Message Number: 15 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 11:06:22 -0400 From: "Jim Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler Cindy, I don't know which RV parts distributor puts out a 504 page catalog that dealers give away but whoever it is shows a Bargman lock with a handle as well as a Bargman with round knobs as shown on Greg's photos. I know nothing about Bargman models numbers or the suitability of the currently available locks for your ' 59 trailer. It looks like a work around is available since the Bargman L77 locks don't seem to be available. Jim Greene ' 68 Tradewind ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:30 Subject: [VAC] Re: Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler > Cindy, > > My '60 Overlander once had a Bargman L77. It seems like Airstream used it > for only two or three years. Our lock mechanism had worn out and the outer > handle broke on us twice. I looked for years to find a new L77, or at least > parts. I could not find anything. I finally gave up and installed a Bargman > 99. It is in much greater use and parts are abundant. It has a round knob > instead of a handle. An aluminum patch was needed on both the outside and > inside to close in the hole due to the smaller size of the 99. > > Scott > 1960 Overlander > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cindy Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:55 PM > Subject: [VAC] Looking for a Bargman L77 lock set for a 59 Traveler > > > > Hi Everybody, > > > > Am just starting out on a 1959 Traveler... > > I need a door lock before I can really go anywhere. > > > > The one on the trailer has a broken handle, but more importantly, it seems > > to be missing parts inside and I have no key. > > I understand that I may be able to buy new tumblers? and key, but I'm > > hesitant about that because I'm not at all sure that that's all the door > > assembly needs. As it is now, the door is in many pieces, and I need to > > know what handle I'm fitting on it. If you have one you might want to let > > go of, please call or email me. I'd appreciate any other suggestions, > too. > > Thank you. > > > > > > > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > ------------------------------ Message Number: 16 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:22:56 -0400 From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: OPV Valve conversion Dave, That "adaptor" is only for the connection, the valve itself contains the actual OPD float and fill shut-off. You'll have to take the tanks to an outfit that does such work so they can install the valves and "certify" the tanks for another 5 years. The certification consists of nothing more than a cursory inspection by a "qualified technician", who then stamps the new date on the collar. I think that April 1, 2002 is the cutoff date, after which ALL propane tanks of 40# and under must have the OPD valves. Although most places don't check the certification date, they'll surely notice the lack of an OPD valve. Some won't care, but you'll run into the occassional person who will; I had a tank date checked this summer when getting it filled. You may be able to sweet-talk the guy into filling your tank, but maybe not. You will not have to convert your hoses, as the OPD valves still incorporate the old-style LH threaded connection. However, if the hoses need replacing anyway, you should use the new pigtails because they don't require tools to connect/disconnect. Camping World sells 'em, along with your friendly propane dealer. OPD conversion cost seems to run in the $25.00-$35.00 range, plus filling. <<Jim>> "David W. Lowrey" wrote: > > My Aluminium LP tanks on my '77 Sovereign were re-certified 5 years ago. > However, they will need to be converted to OPV valve before the middle of > next year. > > I have seen "adapters" that will convert the older type of valve into the > newer type, but this does not have an overflow protection device. > > If I just use the convertors (I will have to adapt the regulator hoses as > well), will that be "legal" (i.e. will most LP gas places refill them that > way)? > > Does anyone sell the "official" conversion kits, containing the overflow > device? if so, can I install it myself? > > Dave > > -- <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> ------------------------------ Message Number: 17 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:43:13 -0400 From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: CO & LP Gas Detectors One of the things missing from my Airstream are CO/LP/Smoke detectors. I would like to install these, and i was wondering what brands/models other folks use. Does anyone make an "integrated" model so that I dont have three ugly boxes marring the beauty of the interior? Dave Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED] '77 Sovereign Cincinnati, Ohio ------------------------------ Message Number: 18 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 09:50:45 -0600 From: Michael Matheny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Winterizing? Greetings, all. I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the time being... And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight... So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding winterizing the old 'stream. Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time rv/camper/airstream person? In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a grey water tank. Thanks in advance! -- - Michael - - - - - - - - Michael (and Cat) Matheny Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22' mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Message Number: 19 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:09:11 -0400 From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Winterizing? Michael, Here's Fred Tinseth's procedure: http://www.phrannie.org/storeRV.html As an alternative to the "blowdown" method, you can disconnect the inlet to the water pump and drop a hose into a jug of RV Antifreeze and pump it through the system. <<Jim>> Michael Matheny wrote: > > Greetings, all. > > I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the > time being... > > And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight... > > So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding > winterizing the old 'stream. > > Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time > rv/camper/airstream person? > > In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a > grey water tank. > > Thanks in advance! > -- > > - Michael > > - - - - - - - - > > Michael (and Cat) Matheny > Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado > 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22' > > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > -- <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> ------------------------------ Message Number: 20 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:02:22 -0600 From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Winterizing? Michael Matheny wrote: > > Greetings, all. > > I noticed that the FAQ section of airstream.net is off line for the > time being... > > And, I noticed that my region and elevation is expecting some snow tonight... > > So... I thought I'd check with you folks for advice regarding > winterizing the old 'stream. > > Anyone have any guidelines/suggestions for a first-time > rv/camper/airstream person? > > In case it makes any difference, my '63 Flying Cloud doesn't have a > grey water tank. > > Thanks in advance! > -- > > - Michael > > - - - - - - - - > > Michael (and Cat) Matheny > Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado > 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22' > > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text > > Hi Michael: First I'd gravity drain all the tanks and lines by removing or opening all drain plugs until water flow stops, including the three on the floor under the cabinet near your water heater. Then reattach or close all drain plugs to allow pressure to build, then open the faucets to blow out all the undrained water line water with compressed air by a hose attached to the pressurized line water intake connection. Let 'er blow for a while. Then remove all drain trap plugs for the winter and leave the faucets partially open so the little water remaining, if any, can evaporate. If any low spot looks like it might still contain water, disconnect a nearby hose or joint and let the water drain out. Worked for me. Best regards, Fred C. in Denver ------------------------------ Message Number: 21 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:21:15 -0700 From: Brian Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Winterizing? <ShamelessPlug> There is a copy of the 1965 Winterizing instructions from the factory at http://www.airstreamclassics.com/DetailPages/Docs/Water/Winterize65.ht ml Probably not an exact match to a '63, but it should be close enough to give you an idea. </ShamelessPlug> Cheers, Brian ------------------------------ Message Number: 22 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:51:16 -0500 From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Shocks...again. The trailer will ride rough with the 3500 pound axles and the shocks won't help the rough ride. Matching the springs to the load lets them have more compliance for letting the wheels follow the convolutions and chuck holes of the road surface. Gerald J. ------------------------------ Message Number: 23 Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:03:43 -0700 From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Vintage tow vehicle (1972); update At 05:36 PM 9/5/2001 -0500, you wrote: >The GVWR figure of 8100 pounds you quoted is for the truck plus carried >weight versus gross combined weight rating which includes the total weight >of the puller as well as the total weight of the trailer. I don't know if >the domestic light truck manufacturers provided GCWR figures in that era. >My best guess for GCWR would be around 10,000 to 12,000 pounds for adequate >performance. Searching the door plates, I have just found another stamp. It says: GAWR Front= 31500 GAWR Rear= 5300 Does this change anything? I think an F250 Camper Special with 390 engine was >likely to be equipped with the old C-6 automatic transmission which was a >tough transmission. I just picked up a original shop manual so I could figure out the ID codes. If I am reading it correctly, I have a C-4 Automatic transmission. >There are two more bits of information that would be helpful in offering an >opinion as to how much trailer you can tow. What is the rear axle or >differential ratio? You should be able to find a code on a tag on the >driver's door frame. The letter-number code can probably be deciphered by a >Ford dealer and it is probably still the same code in use in '90s era Ford >trucks. My guess is it is a 3.73:1 but it could be a 4.11:1. Either will >be good for towing but not for fuel mileage. I am new to this, but it looks like it is 3.54.1 Could this be correct? >The other relevant factor is tire size or, more precisely, diameter. Those >trucks were originally equipped with the old style bias ply 7.50x16 8 or 10 >ply tires. They were a pretty tall tire which reduces the effective final >drive ratio. The tires on it are tall. They are LT 235/85R 16 M/S Would this be a good size for the truck if I were towing a trailer? >Having said all of that, if you want to maintain adequate performance with a >safety and performance margin as you said (and I agree), my recommendation >would be to limit your gross trailer weight (including propane, water, >clothing, food, personal items) to around 6000 pounds. OK. Assuming the above new information I have posted does not change that number, I'll use it. >Airstreams of similar lengths became heavier in each decade. If you are >seeking a trailer of the same era as your puller, i.e. a '71 to '72 for >example, a 27' Overlander (or smaller) would probably make an excellent >candidate. If I wanted to restore (not go completely nuts, but bring a Airstream back to it's original look) are 1970's models easier to find equipment for, than say, the 1960's? OK. I think I got it: 1) About 6,000 pounds or lighter 2) A 27 foot Overlander or smaller Thanks for the good info! jack in Portland Oregon ------------------------------ Message Number: 24 Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 13:21:14 -0700 From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Rocky Mtn Rally pictures ----- Original Message ----- > Roger, > > Great clear photos of the rally. I really regret missing it, even more so > now that I saw the people, trailers, and the beautiful scenery in the > background. > > I had originally planned to attend but my wife, who works as opposed to > loafing as I do, scheduled her summer vacation and wanted to go to > Yellowstone and Grand Teton. I had to honor her wishes. Had she selected a > different time I could have done both. Oh well. I hope to be able to > attend next year. > > Harvey > Harvey, We went to Yellowstone and Grand Teton right after the RM Rally was complete. I have posted some pics at http://home.att.net/~n7kt/wsb/index.html if you'd like to see them. Regards, Roger Roger Hightower WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT 1975 31' Sovereign Mesa, AZ mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of VACList-Digest #54 ************************************ To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text