I also placed my connections above the bath. With Borax, they had to be fairly close together to get 1 amp. I estimate from memory about 1/2 inch maximum. I am currently using sodium carbonate with a pencil lead electrode connected to the positive supply terminal. With borax, the metal electrodes in that location always were attacked by the oxygen being released and the resistivity would quickly become too large. Carbon electrodes likewise did not last long before being destroyed and that is when I went to the Arm & Hammer washing soda (sodium carbonate). My latest set up lasts a very long time before the carbon is damaged. The spacing is about 2 inches between my nickel and pencil lead.
Typically I read 14 volts when 1 amp of current is flowing. Occasionally it only takes 12 volts depending upon spacing, electrode depth, and other factors. I found an interesting way to make a sharp carbon rod. The borax solution ate the carbon electrode with the most material being taken from the tip. This resulted in an extremely long sharp carbon tip that appears many times sharper than a needle. The tip could penetrate a paper towel with a small effort. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Alan J Fletcher <a...@well.com> To: vortex-l <vortex-l@eskimo.com> Sent: Thu, Sep 27, 2012 2:17 pm Subject: Re: [Vo]:Good Alloy for Celani type reaction costs 5 cents : Chuck Sites Replicators : I plan to hold my 2 nickels vertically, and only partly immersed in the Borax (so that all connections are above the fluid). How far apart should they be? I saw elsewhere that all Australian "silver" coins are also nickel-copper :(maybe swedish, too) : A big coin would be easier to connect than a nickel.
