Hmmm.... I love the resourcefulness and diy ethic. Just a detail- the storebought studded tires are blunt, not sharp. Maybe stainless steel machine screws (these don't have a pointy tip) would work just as well or better than sheetmetal screws (correct me if sheetmetal screws are blunt-tipped). I'm not too excited about having sharp points sticking out of my tires... for my sake or the road's, but maybe it makes no difference. Anyone else have an opinion about this?
----- Original Message ----- From: Robin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, December 4, 2008 11:52 am Subject: Re: [Bikies] Knobbies or Slick/Knobbie combo? To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Build your own ice racers have been doing this for ages (from ICEBike > page): Also at SilentSports > < > > This is what you need to make your very own studded tire: > > 1. One tire. You need a tire with knobs big enough to > support the stud. the stud as explained further down, has to be on the > 2. 50 (approx.) Robertson head #8 by 1/2" sheet metal > screws (the square head, you'll thank me for this tip) for mountain > bike tires (26inch) or #8 by 3/8 inch for hybrid tires (700c) > 3. Liner for each tire. This can be made by cutting the > beads off an old tire, cutting out the valve and slitting along the > inside of an inner tube or just buying a Mr. Tuffy tire liner. > 4. Baby powder. > 5. One sharp awl. (or a 1/8" drill bit) > > > > Instructions > > *Count the knobs and evenly spread out the 25 screws for each side. > *Punch holes, from the outside of the tire, into the designated > knobs. You can drill the hole, however, drilling tends to tear the > fabric and thus weakens the tire. Caution you don't need a million > screws in there! Too many screws just slows you down. > *Use Robertson bit in the drill to drive the screws in the tire from > the inside. > * Put liner inside tire and make sure it covers the screw heads > *Put a generous dusting of baby powder between the liner and the tube. > *Mount tire on the rim (ouch! watch out for the points!) > *Inflate to maximum pressure. Put the wheel on the bike (mind the > points). Spin the wheel to make sure that the studs don't catch on > anything. > > Comments > > You only need to stud the front tire to keep upright; however, if > you stud the back tire as well, it's even better. One caveat is that > these tires are only suitable for winter conditions. The difference > between one studded front and no studded tires in phenomenal. When the > bike is travelling straight the studs shouldn't be hitting the road > too hard; otherwise, they will just wear out too soon. Don't worry, > when the tire slips just a bit the studs will bite in. You rarely > notice the slight side to side movement. > > You don't need to stud the middle knobs since you only need the > added traction when you are turning. The studs should touch the road > enough to allow sufficient braking. The studs in the middle knobs wear > out very fast and soon become useless anyway. > > Stainless steel screws will last much longer, but also cost about > 3 times as much. You can change screws as they wear out, your tire can > survive several sets of studs. > > R > -- > Pointlessly blogging at www.robindavies.vox.com > Try something new every day. > _______________________________________________ > Bikies mailing list > [email protected] > http://lists.danenet.org/listinfo.cgi/bikies-danenet.org _______________________________________________ Bikies mailing list [email protected] http://lists.danenet.org/listinfo.cgi/bikies-danenet.org
