The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 35 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: 5 Series Offset Question ABS wiring and RaceLogic Traction Control installation Re: M3 Transmission Oil? NOW: Redline oil sale <M20> cartridge oil filter Re: Final Snow Tire Decision - advice Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness Re: Help - how to remove rear seatback on a E36 325i '93 525iT Luggage Rack Roof Rail Removal Re: '93 525iT Luggage Rack Roof Rail Removal
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 08:34:37 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 5 Series Offset Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E28 and E34 generally do share the same offset, et20 front and et19-et26 rear. Your wheels will fit the E34. - Rob >---- Original Message ---- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: RE: [UUC] 5 Series Offset Question >Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 21:00:17 -0500 > >>Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> >>Hi All, >> >>I have someone interested in the 5 series 17" wheels I have for sale >off of >>my E28 535i, and he wants to know if they will fit a 94 540i. As >far as I >>understand they should since that is the E34 body style and offset >didnt >>change but I want to verify before I tell him >> >>Thanks for the replies in advance >>wheels can be seen here www.oyabuntatsu.com/wheels >> >>Cheers >>Ron Janjua ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 08:26:23 -0700 From: "Frank & Kirsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: ABS wiring and RaceLogic Traction Control installation Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm installing a Race Logic Traction Control system in my 1995 M3 and am having a difficult time with the electrical schematic in the Bentley Manual versus the wire colors I'm seeing on the ABS harness near the ABS brain behind the glove box. Does anyone know what color layout is of the harness wires for the signals from the wheel sensors? The electrical schematic from the manual has colors that don't exist on my harness. Also, I was wondering if anyone out there has done this install on the same year M3. If so, can you give any advice or insights you have gained from your experience. Thanks, Frank 1995 M3 BUILD DATE = 4/95 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:26:12 -0500 From: Bill Ballon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: M3 Transmission Oil? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Redline makes specific recommendations for which oil to use in which transmission. They offer an oil recommendation sheet that we go by when servicing these transmissions. (We use Redline oils exclusively in manual transmissions in my shop.) I checked their web site, but the document is not on line there. If my memory serves me correctly, the D4 ATF is the recommended lubricant for the e36 325i. Bill Ballon Bill Ballon Automotive Independent BMW Specialists Pittsburgh, Pa At 01:54 AM 11/27/03 -0800, Mike Gambini wrote: >Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 17:51:48 -0500 >From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "BMW digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: M3 Transmission Oil? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I have a 93 E36 325i which also calls for ATF, and I have always used MTL. >I'm in New England, near Boston, so it has seen it's share of cold weather. >The MTL has always worked fine. >MikeG >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dorffer, Rich" > > > You can use D4ATF (most recommended) or MTL or MT90 depending on your >intended use and level of protection you want versus shiftability (is that a >word?). Certain industry people recommend MTL or MT90 for added protection >(I believe Jim Blanton does for one) and better syncho operation. But, the >thicker oils will make cold weather operation more difficult until the >tranny oil warms up. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:48:52 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bill Ballon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: NOW: Redline oil sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FWIW, I/O Port racing is having a one-day sale on Tuesday, 12/2 on everything, including all Red Line products. DISCLAIMER: I have no pecuniary interest, no financial gain will accrue to me, remove tag under penalty of law, do not wash with colors, place your seatbacks and trays in their full and upright positions, etc. vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bill Ballon Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2003 10:26 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] M3 Transmission Oil? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Redline makes specific recommendations for which oil to use in which transmission. They offer an oil recommendation sheet that we go by when servicing these transmissions. (We use Redline oils exclusively in manual transmissions in my shop.) I checked their web site, but the document is not on line there. If my memory serves me correctly, the D4 ATF is the recommended lubricant for the e36 325i. Bill Ballon Bill Ballon Automotive Independent BMW Specialists Pittsburgh, Pa At 01:54 AM 11/27/03 -0800, Mike Gambini wrote: >Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 17:51:48 -0500 >From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "BMW digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: M3 Transmission Oil? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I have a 93 E36 325i which also calls for ATF, and I have always used MTL. >I'm in New England, near Boston, so it has seen it's share of cold weather. >The MTL has always worked fine. >MikeG >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Dorffer, Rich" > > > You can use D4ATF (most recommended) or MTL or MT90 depending on your >intended use and level of protection you want versus shiftability (is that a >word?). Certain industry people recommend MTL or MT90 for added protection >(I believe Jim Blanton does for one) and better syncho operation. But, the >thicker oils will make cold weather operation more difficult until the >tranny oil warms up. __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 15:59:33 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <M20> cartridge oil filter Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: To anyone who has changed from canister to cartridge style oil filter on an M20 motor. (Not that it is relevent, but my M20 is in my 1987 325e.) Come next oil change I will be putting the cartridge device on the motor. I was wondering if there was a failproof way to attach the main body of it so I would only have to remove/replace the cap for following oil changes? Is there a special tool? Do people use strap wrenches to hold the body in place while removing the cap? Is it easier to just remove the whole canister and remove the catridge from it on a bench top? Let me know you tips/secrets. Thanks. Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some good bets! http://shopping.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:59:01 -0500 From: Bill Ballon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Final Snow Tire Decision - advice Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Kirk, Well, you posed the question "Why not Blizzaks?" I can offer a couple of reasons of why we prefer the Nokian tire line here in sunny warm Pittsburgh PA. First of all, Consumer Reports did a tire comparison test of snow tires last Fall, and the Nokian Hakkapeliitta Q outperformed the Blizzak. Their findings reported that while the Blizzaks had higher initial traction on ice, the Hakkas performed better after the tire was used over time. Secondly, Nokian uses their "Termo Silica" technology throughout the entire useful tread depth, where the Blizzaks have their "Micorcell" rubber compound in the first 50% of the tread depth. The Hakkas are effective through their entire useful tread depth, but the Blizzaks lose their performance quicker. Thirdly, Nokian offers several Winter tire choices, including the ONLY four season tire that carries the "Severe Service emblem" that qualifies it as a snow tire. Finally, the Nokians wear vastly better than the Blizzaks do. Even Tire Rack's customer ratings section of their web site show unacceptable wear reported. While the Nokians are more expensive than the Blizzaks, their better wear and better performance over time makes them a better choice and value in my experience. But I am VERY biased, because these are the reasons that we have sold Nokian tires for the last eight years. IF a better tire line comes out, We'll sell them instead of the Nokians! Bill Ballon Bill Ballon Automotive Independent BMW Specialists Authorized Nokian tire dealer in Pittsburgh Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania At 12:32 PM 11/26/03 -0800, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 12:05:45 -0500 >From: "Eurowerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: Final Snow Tire Decision - advice >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Of course I should stay out of this again this year, but why not the >Bridgestone Blizzak? This happens to be the tire of choice again this year >from the Tire Rack. Ask any salesperson there and they are out-performing >every other tire that they offer. >I have used these personally for over 7 years now and they work absolutely >spectacular. NO, they are not an ultra-performance tire, but is that why >you buy a snow tire anyway? They are a whole lot softer than a typical all >season tread, but actually offer traction in the most adverse conditions. I >have used them on my MB diesels as well as a few E28's, E30's, and E34's >with tremendous success. > >Kirk A. Gilchrist >EURO-WERKS / Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Volvo Service and Repair >8 South Highland St. / Winchester, KY 40391 / 859-745-0125 >[EMAIL PROTECTED] / 888-522-0271 toll free ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 08:51:06 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett, I'm surprised to be getting a reply from you, I thought you were on your way to San Diego. I hope answering my question did not delay your departure for the airport. Thanks for the advice. I figured another recharge was in my future, I just wasn't sure what was going on with the antenna. It seems to be implied in your message that the draw for the antenna is not normal, so I'll proceed as you suggested. I was going to replace the mast anyway, but maybe the rest of the antenna isn't worth saving. Happy Thanksgiving and have a great vacation. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2003 21:31:09 -0500 >From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: <E30> Electrical Goofiness >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >There is no way to know if your battery is bad, unless you fully charge it >and load test it. > >You seem to have found your draw, the antenna. The total draw of the >vehicle, in this case, the E30, should be no more than about 27mA. > >Charge the battery up, with the antenna now disconnected, and perform a load >test. If you don't have a tester, go to an auto parts store, most will load >test your battery for free. > >If it fails the load test, replace it. If it passes, then see how long it >lasts with the draw below 30mA, it should be fine. > >Obviously, you need to start with a full charge. > >Brett Anderson >KMS ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 10:27:20 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mike Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Help - how to remove rear seatback on a E36 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 09:46 PM 11/26/03, Mike Whitney talked about: >Fixed (non-folding) seats. I'm stumped. The instructions in Bentley point >to bolts which do not exist! > >Any help would be welcome! I need an excuse to go out in the garage >tomorrow and get away from the in-laws :) (Just kidding, I like my >inlaws...) Check out my page on installing Schroth harnessess: http://www.jimbassett.com/bmw.htm - click on "Schroth Rallye 4 Harness Installation" on the left menu. There's an explanation on removing the rear seatback for my '98 M3/4 (non-folding rear seats). Should be similar, or provide some hints for you. Good luck, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 17:43:08 -0600 From: "A. Wesley Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: '93 525iT Luggage Rack Roof Rail Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I need to remove my roof rails on the Touring. The Bentley doesn't give a clue. Anyone know what is involved? Wes Parker ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 22:28:27 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "A. Wesley Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: '93 525iT Luggage Rack Roof Rail Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I believe they attach from inside. Remove the headliner. Gary Derian > > I need to remove my roof rails on the Touring. The Bentley doesn't give > a clue. > Anyone know what is involved? > > Wes Parker ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
