The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 213 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E36 upper shock mounts Re: E36 upper shock mounts Re: E30 brake backing plates Re: E30 brake backing plates Re: E34 Touring - access top end of rear shocks Re: E34 Touring - access top end of rear shocks still more E36 suspension questions Re: still more E36 suspension questions Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate Re: [SPAM] E30 brake backing plates
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 18:37:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 upper shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, For the installation of my Biltein Sports this weekend, I bought a set of 98 M3 front upper shock mounts for my 93 325, per recommendations from list members. However, upon trying to fit the mount on the shock tower, I noted that the shaft bearing on the mount is quite a bit offset from the hole in the shock tower. I was trying to fit the mount marked 'R' on the passenger side of the car. Is that wrong? There was an arrow next to the 'R' as well. Or are these mounts completely wrong for the car? If I need to exchange them for the stock mounts, I'll have to wait until Tuesday...ugh :(! Brian 93 325 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 21:30:19 -0500 From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 upper shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Brian, I did this swap on my '94 325i, putting the '96+ M3 strut bearing plates on swapped left for right. Mount them such that the arrow points forward. You'll gain ~0.5 degree negative camber but I had to grind a bit of metal off the edge of the bearing plates to fully clear the strut tower sheet metal. After putting about 30K miles on the car I'm still happy as I have slightly sharper turn-in and better cornering traction with no net change in tire wear or dartiness. YMMV. Christian Els Columbia, MO -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2004 8:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] E36 upper shock mounts Group, For the installation of my Biltein Sports this weekend, I bought a set of 98 M3 front upper shock mounts for my 93 325, per recommendations from list members. However, upon trying to fit the mount on the shock tower, I noted that the shaft bearing on the mount is quite a bit offset from the hole in the shock tower. I was trying to fit the mount marked 'R' on the passenger side of the car. Is that wrong? There was an arrow next to the 'R' as well. Or are these mounts completely wrong for the car? If I need to exchange them for the stock mounts, I'll have to wait until Tuesday...ugh :(! Brian 93 325 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 23:30:42 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmw list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 brake backing plates Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Looks like a royal PITA. So why do you need to replace the backing plates? > Did the place for the shoe retaining pins pull through or is this > something > else? That is what happened to me. I had to replace them on my old 1989 325is as the rear backing plates had rusted badly. I was able to swap them on without pulling the hub, etc. (which would be much more work if needed) by making a judicious small cut in one place (dremel or cut off saw) and twisting them into place and then bending them straight again. This worked very well and was a little work but much better than the alternative if there is no other reason to replace the wheel bearings, etc. I then basically followed the parking brake repair section of the Bentley to completely replace the assemblies, springs, shoes, etc. > From Carey Probst > >Hoping to do this Monday > > Good luck. Yep. Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 13:01:38 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 brake backing plates Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> And if you have to pull the hubs to install the new backing plates, you might as well replace the rear wheel bearings. BTW, the procedure for pulling the bearings calls for disconnecting the half shaft from the diff output flange and then removing the half shaft from the hub. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 16:11:11 -0400 (EDT) >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) >Subject: Re: E30 brake backing plates >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >From Carey Probst >> >>I need to replace the backing plates for the parking brakes on my 325e. > >My first question is "why?", but that is only because of what follows... > >>I have the plates but it isn't obvious how to get them on since the hole is >>smaller than the end of the axle. > >Yep... > >>I didn't see directions for that in the Bentley. Is there a site with that >>detail or can someone give me directions on what has to be removed? > >It looks like (and from what I recall last time I was in there) that you are >going to have to remove the hub to install the backing plates. I know it >works like that on the front hubs. Look carefully at the assembly diagram on >the rear brakes in Bentley, and then go look at the procedure for replacing >the rear bearings. That might help. > >It appears that it is fairly straight forward. Pull outter CV joint loose >from flange on hub, pull big nut off cener of hub, use puller to pull hub. >You might be able to do that without pulling the CV joint, but I don't know. > >Do what you need and put it all back together. > >Looks like a royal PITA. So why do you need to replace the backing plates? >Did the place for the shoe retaining pins pull through or is this something >else? I think they make special washers to "fix" this problem. If that will >work. I would do that and swap out the backing plates when the rear bearings >need work or if the other "fix" didn't work. > >>Hoping to do this Monday > >Good luck. > >-- Joe ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 00:43:29 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 Touring - access top end of rear shocks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> This is an all day job. The side bolsters of the rear seat come out. The C pillar trim, the horizontal trim along the rearmost side windows, and a lot of stuff along the sides of the rear compartment, then the trim just behind the rear seat and the strut tops are visible. Its a major jigsaw puzzle. Gary Derian > What do I need to remove, and how do I remove it? Bentley book makes no > mention of the Touring in the suspension section. > > Planning to do the work Monday. I didn't think to get new bump stops. > Installing Bilstein HDs so I don't need them up front. What are the chances > that the rear ones can be reused? Maybe I need to save the rear end for > another day when I can have bump stops handy. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 14:46:26 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 Touring - access top end of rear shocks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gee ... Sounds like fun ~:| You probably gave me enough to go on though. Started the day at the Indy 500, but gave up on it after they red-flagged it. Maybe I'll get started on it tonight so I can get the car at least driveable tomorrow. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Derian Sent: Saturday, May 29, 2004 11:43 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 Touring - access top end of rear shocks This is an all day job. The side bolsters of the rear seat come out. The C pillar trim, the horizontal trim along the rearmost side windows, and a lot of stuff along the sides of the rear compartment, then the trim just behind the rear seat and the strut tops are visible. Its a major jigsaw puzzle. Gary Derian > What do I need to remove, and how do I remove it? Bentley book makes > no mention of the Touring in the suspension section. > > Planning to do the work Monday. I didn't think to get new bump stops. > Installing Bilstein HDs so I don't need them up front. What are the chances > that the rear ones can be reused? Maybe I need to save the rear end > for another day when I can have bump stops handy. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:27:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: still more E36 suspension questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All, I am still putting together my suspension on my 93 325, and I have yet one more question. As I mentioned before, I think I am going to use a set of 98 M3 front upper strut mounts, dependent on one thing: camber. I also plan to change the control arm bushings later to the solid offset E30 M3 bushings (For the usual reasons: better turn-in & feel). I am wondering if the combination of the 98 M3 mount and the E30 M3 bushings will put in too much negative camber. With the car stock, the built-in negative camber was plenty for me, since I don't track or auto-x the car, only take a few spirited canyon runs every once in a while. Extensive tire wear is my enemy - I would hate to have too much camber that the tires would wear out in 15-20,000 miles (or less, even). On another note, I really want to thank you all for the opinions, recommedations, and advice you've all given. Without you I wouldn't be able to do this right. :) Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:32:19 -0700 From: "Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: still more E36 suspension questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, I haven't heard of using e30 solid offset control arm bushings. If you meant e36, the m3 versions are also solid and offset, but they don't add camber, just caster. Which is a good thing for fighting tramlining. Mike -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 11:27 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] still more E36 suspension questions All, I am still putting together my suspension on my 93 325, and I have yet one more question. As I mentioned before, I think I am going to use a set of 98 M3 front upper strut mounts, dependent on one thing: camber. I also plan to change the control arm bushings later to the solid offset E30 M3 bushings (For the usual reasons: better turn-in & feel). I am wondering if the combination of the 98 M3 mount and the E30 M3 bushings will put in too much negative camber. With the car stock, the built-in negative camber was plenty for me, since I don't track or auto-x the car, only take a few spirited canyon runs every once in a while. Extensive tire wear is my enemy - I would hate to have too much camber that the tires would wear out in 15-20,000 miles (or less, even). On another note, I really want to thank you all for the opinions, recommedations, and advice you've all given. Without you I wouldn't be able to do this right. :) Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 13:05:24 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bob, I like Eurasian and have purchased from them before. When I started my search a couple of weeks ago, their web site said they were closed until early June due to a warehouse move. But not that early June is only a couple of days away, maybe I'll just wait and order from them. What kind of bedding in did you do with your Ultimates? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 17:49:08 -0000 >From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Smiller said: >"I'm shopping for Axxis Ultimate brake pads for my [E30] '90 325i. " > >Scott- >I got mine at Eurasian (eap4parts.com). I didn't really price-compare but >theirs are generally pretty good. > >Comment on the pads themselves: You have to be patient. I was pretty >disappointed in them for a while; finally after first autocross use they got >a lot more effective. > >Bob >87 325is/3.0 >95 M3 (for sale) >Cincinnati ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 19:42:59 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [SPAM] E30 brake backing plates Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cut the backing plate between the brake caliper mounting holes, where it's narrowest. Cut the old one off, bend the new one into place and bolt it all up. You'll want to double check that it's all flat so that the rotor does not rub it, and you're done. It's not the "right" way to do it, but it's cheaper than throwing away good wheel bearings and it will give you back your parking brake. Brett Anderson KMS www.bmwdiffs.com > -----Original Message----- > I need to replace the backing plates for the parking brakes on my 325e. > > I have the plates but it isn't obvious how to get them on since > the hole is smaller than the end of the axle. > > I didn't see directions for that in the Bentley. Is there a site > with that detail or can someone give me directions on what has to > be removed? > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.690 / Virus Database: 451 - Release Date: 5/22/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
