The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 227 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long Fuel Injector Question @#*&!% I screwed up.... 1998 M3 Convertible FOR SALE Braindead 97 ti Re: Braindead 97 ti Strap Wrenches, was @#*&!% I screwed up....
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 19:45:58 -0400 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Barb, Blueridge Motor Works (434.295.5269) is a good, possibly great, independent BMW shop in Charlottesville. They're on River Road, off Rt 250, not far from the dealer. HTH, Marty Barbara Zmiewski wrote: >Hi, > >Our E28 M5 has bee experiencing an odd problem. It starts up fine and you >drive off. About 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road the engine just cuts out. >All electrical seems to be working. The started a few weeks ago and since >then is happening more frequently. The car will restart fine and then be ok >for the rest of whatever trip you might be taking.(even several hundred >miles) . This seems to happen with the a/c on but as its been hot the car >has not been driven without a/c so not sure if that is a factor. No other >problem signs, temperature fine, etc... > >One- any ideas on what would cause this? > >Two - Any recommendations for service in Charlottesville, VA? I know there >is a BMW dealership there but if anyone knows of a great independent shop >all the better. The car is out of town for an extended trip and far from our >usual cadre of resources. > >Thanks! > >Barb and Mark Zmiewski > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 18:16:56 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd check the main and fuel pump relays in the glove box; it could be one of those if they are old. It could also be a crank position sensor going bad or the infamous bad solder joint on the DME transistor. I think the heat would exacerbate problems with any of those items, though having the car run OK after a single cut-out is odd. I'm sure someone on here can recommend a shop near you. Good luck! Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Barbara Zmiewski Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 5:27 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] E28 M5 stalls out/ service in Charlottesville, VA Hi, Our E28 M5 has bee experiencing an odd problem. It starts up fine and you drive off. About 1/4 to 1/2 mile down the road the engine just cuts out. All electrical seems to be working. The started a few weeks ago and since then is happening more frequently. The car will restart fine and then be ok for the rest of whatever trip you might be taking.(even several hundred miles) . This seems to happen with the a/c on but as its been hot the car has not been driven without a/c so not sure if that is a factor. No other problem signs, temperature fine, etc... One- any ideas on what would cause this? Two - Any recommendations for service in Charlottesville, VA? I know there is a BMW dealership there but if anyone knows of a great independent shop all the better. The car is out of town for an extended trip and far from our usual cadre of resources. Thanks! Barb and Mark Zmiewski Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 16:36:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> After some thought, before I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new shock, I tried giving BavAuto a call to see if they knew of something I could do, since I bought the set originally from them (hoping that _maybe_ I'd get the slim chance that they would say "oh just send it back to us, and we'll send you a new one"). I asked the salesman, and he started questioning me about how bad it was...maybe to see if they could send it back to the manufacturer as defective(?). I said that they weren't gigantic gouges but that they could possibly shorten the life of the shock. He said he didn't know what to do, but to give Bilstein a call and maybe they could do something. I got their contact information, and called them up. Talked to a guy in the warranty department, who said he'd transfer me to sales to see if they could do anything. I soon got a hold of someone in sales, told him my predicament, and he sounded like he was treating me as stupid; he instantly said that I'd have to buy a new one. Ouch. I asked if there was anything they could do for me, and he said I'd have to contact a distributor. So, I called BavAuto back again, told the story to someone else again, and asked if there was anything they could do for me discount-wise. I asked if possibly I could get it shipped for free, and he said sure... He was on the computer, and after several seconds he comes back with "I can get you one for $100 plus $11 shipping". Sounded good enough for me, so I went ahead and ordered it. Almost felt like I could have gotten it for cheaper, because he said it so fast. I do really hate to have to spend that money for a new shock knowing that I could fix the one I have now and have it be fairly usable, but do you all think I made a good decision? I was thinking about it, and if I just tried to fix the shock now and put it in, it may end up failing prematurely, and then I'd have to replace BOTH shocks AGAIN in a year or two -- I wouldn't feel right just replacing one later; I would feel "uneven" even if the old shock that would stay on the car was still in pretty good shape. I think $100 now is a better value than $300 for a full pair of new shocks later. Anyone think I should have just fixed and forgotten? On a side note, anyone want to buy an installed but not used driver's side Bilstein Sport shock with some small gouges on the shaft? I'll sell it cheap! :-P Thanks again, Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:11:41 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, I would have used it with no issues. The seal you see is only a dust seal, there is no fluid inside the housing and the shock is inverted, so you didn't scratch the cylinder that has a high pressure seal etc. Hard to explain without drawing a picture. But the cylinder you see is basically the housing of the actual shock. The real shock rod is smaller, located inside of the bigger cylinder and the exposed shaft part is attached to the bottom of the strut. You could basically scratch the whole outside of the larger, exposed cylinder without any issues as to performance of the shock nor would ANY fluid leak out. Years down the road, dust and sand might start to become issues but with scratches like you described, probably not a problem. Anyway you can take a picture and email? Look at the diagram on the page below, you will see that you scratched the outer tube right? It will not affect performance and should not affect durability of the shock. Smooth the scratches the best you can so the dust seal works then happy motoring. If the scratches are really bad, they possibly could affect the movement of the larger shaft, which uses the strut body for support, but those would have be some bad scratches. http://www.bilstein.com/html/performance/patentedperformance.htm Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz -> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 7:37 PM -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Subject: Re: [UUC] @#*&!%...thumbs up to BavAuto(sort of)-long -> -> -> After some thought, before I decided to bite the -> bullet and buy a new shock, I tried giving BavAuto a -> call to see if they knew of something I could do, -> since I bought the set originally from them (hoping -> that _maybe_ I'd get the slim chance that they would -> say "oh just send it back to us, and we'll send you a -> new one"). I asked the salesman, and he started -> questioning me about how bad it was...maybe to see if -> they could send it back to the manufacturer as -> defective(?). I said that they weren't gigantic -> gouges but that they could possibly shorten the life -> of the shock. He said he didn't know what to do, but -> to give Bilstein a call and maybe they could do -> something. I got their contact information, and -> called them up. Talked to a guy in the warranty -> department, who said he'd transfer me to sales to see -> if they could do anything. I soon got a hold of -> someone in sales, told him my predicament, and he -> sounded like he was treating me as stupid; he -> instantly said that I'd have to buy a new one. Ouch. -> I asked if there was anything they could do for me, -> and he said I'd have to contact a distributor. So, I -> called BavAuto back again, told the story to someone -> else again, and asked if there was anything they could -> do for me discount-wise. I asked if possibly I could -> get it shipped for free, and he said sure... -> -> He was on the computer, and after several seconds he -> comes back with "I can get you one for $100 plus $11 -> shipping". Sounded good enough for me, so I went -> ahead and ordered it. Almost felt like I could have -> gotten it for cheaper, because he said it so fast. -> -> I do really hate to have to spend that money for a new -> shock knowing that I could fix the one I have now and -> have it be fairly usable, but do you all think I made -> a good decision? I was thinking about it, and if I -> just tried to fix the shock now and put it in, it may -> end up failing prematurely, and then I'd have to -> replace BOTH shocks AGAIN in a year or two -- I -> wouldn't feel right just replacing one later; I would -> feel "uneven" even if the old shock that would stay on -> the car was still in pretty good shape. I think $100 -> now is a better value than $300 for a full pair of new -> shocks later. -> -> Anyone think I should have just fixed and forgotten? -> -> On a side note, anyone want to buy an installed but -> not used driver's side Bilstein Sport shock with some -> small gouges on the shaft? I'll sell it cheap! :-P -> -> Thanks again, -> Brian -> 93 325 -> -> -> -> -> __________________________________ -> Do you Yahoo!? -> Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 21:54:54 -0500 From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fuel Injector Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I finally got my 88 325 buttoned up so I prepared to start it, finally. Unfortunately it is now a crank-no start, dang. As I have been progressing through my troubleshooting I have gotten to the point where I want to check that the injectors are firing correctly (fuel flowing at the pressure regulator but the plugs are dry). As I grab my trusty meter and start to poke the leads at an accessible injector it suddenly occurs to me I have no idea what I should be looking for to tell me the injectors are getting the correct signal. I would assume it should be getting some voltage, correct? Thank you for your thoughts. Christian Els Columbia, MO 88 325, almost ready to ride again. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 21:22:20 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: @#*&!% I screwed up.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you have an impact wrench, you do not need to grip the top of the shaft. The impact wrench tightens the nut so fast that there is no need to hold it. If you don't have an impact wrench, use a pipe wrench on the socket that fits the nut, put an allen wrench down through the center to hold the shaft. On the Bilsteins, the shaft that you see, and damaged, is not the main shaft, but is a dust cover. The dampening action shaft is inside the one that you see. This is what I have heard about the construction of the strut. Go to the Bilstein site and look at the cutaway. Dave Miller ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:41:56 -0700 From: "Ahmad S. Hamzawi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 1998 M3 Convertible FOR SALE Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Beautiful 1998 M3 Convertible Must sell!!! Blue book wholesale is $21,500 and retail is $26,500!! Make me an offer! low 55K miles 5 speed, black on black (cosmos metallic!) 8 Speaker Premium Harmon Kardon Stereo System with BMW 6 CD changer and subwoofer BMW M3 5 spoke M-Contour rims with full size spare BMW Toolkit in trunk BMW Keyless entry with alarm and 2 remotes Factory Perma-Plate paint protector (bought when new) with warranty All BMW Factory options which include - Power Convertible Top/Seats/Windows, Dual heated power seats, cruise control, On-Board computer (OBC), Rear Defroster, Power Locks, Dual Zone Climate Control Air Conditioning, Power Mirrors, Dynamic Stability Control (ASC) Rollover package (spikes from rear of car deploy to avoid body roll) Dual front and side airbags Jim Conforti Performance OBD-II Software upgrade (average 23.5 miles per gallon city and 26.5 freeway) ITG Performance (reusable) air filter Recently replaced rear convertible window (zippered) Dealer serviced, all records Always hand washed and waxed Registration paid as of last week, good for the next year! Since this is my 4th 3-series BMW, I have many old spare parts I'll give you. Pics located at http://hamzawi.homeip.net/pics/m3_pics";>http://home.comcast.net/~ahamzawi/m3 _pics ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 23:01:56 -0500 From: "tom dotzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Braindead 97 ti Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The wonderful supercharged 97 ti won't start..Main relay checks out...primary and secondary on the coilpack checks out...no ground coming from DME to fuel pump and no spark out of the coil. I have removed and visually inspected the DME...don't see any brown spots or broken solder joints. Since the PO had cut out the back of the glove box to accommodate a cd changer and removed what I believe to be mounts for the DME, it was just laying in there. Unbeknownst to me who drove serious miles on bad highways with stiff suspension and rubber band tires. All was fine but I drove the car in one night and next morning crank but no fire.. So I have three questions. 1. Can the disembodied DME be checked out, say on a diagnostic machine at the dealer? 2. Is there anyone reputable for DME repair (Not counting the guys in Hawaii who get rave reviews)9 I have heard tales over the years of poor results from various shops so also ask: Who to avoid. 3. Would it be advisable to get one from asalvage yard? TIA Anyone having an extra brain around who would like to be an organ donor for my car...(its a 1.9L M44, January 97 birthday vehicle). Tom Dotzler (awash in a sea of dead bimmers. 2 e28s that won't quit. One e36 that did...3 project cars, 3 junkers.) (low mileage v12 longblock...make offer.) Yeah...i cross posted this...I suk >8[ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 00:22:32 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Braindead 97 ti Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tow it to someone with GT-1 or Modic III. Have the fault memories read. More likely an EWS problem than DME. You'll save a bunch of money in wasted time and parts purchases. Besides, you can't replace the DME without one of the aforementioned pieces of diagnostic equipment anyway. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- >The wonderful supercharged 97 ti won't start..Main relay checks > out...primary and secondary on the coilpack checks out...no ground > coming from DME to fuel pump and no spark out of the coil. I have > removed and visually inspected the DME...don't see any brown spots or > broken solder joints. Since the PO had cut out the back of the glove box > to accommodate a cd changer and removed what I believe to be mounts for > the DME, it was just laying in there. Unbeknownst to me who drove > serious miles on bad highways with stiff suspension and rubber band > tires. All was fine but I drove the car in one night and next morning > crank but no fire.. So I have three questions. > 1. Can the disembodied DME be checked out, say on a diagnostic machine > at the dealer? > 2. Is there anyone reputable for DME repair (Not counting the guys in > Hawaii who get rave reviews)9 I have heard tales over the years of poor > results from various shops so also ask: Who to avoid. > 3. Would it be advisable to get one from asalvage yard? > TIA > > Anyone having an extra brain around who would like to be an organ donor > for my car...(its a 1.9L M44, January 97 birthday vehicle). > Tom Dotzler > (awash in a sea of dead bimmers. 2 e28s that won't quit. One e36 that > did...3 project cars, 3 junkers.) (low mileage v12 longblock...make > offer.) > Yeah...i cross posted this...I suk >8[ > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.690 / Virus Database: 451 - Release Date: 5/22/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 21:13:04 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Strap Wrenches, was @#*&!% I screwed up.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, wrote: > That while trying to hold the shaft of my new > Bilstein sport shock to tighten the strut shaft top > nut, I put a couple gouges in the shaft somewhat close > to the seal on the strut (was using a doubled up old > sock and some vice grips Then Chet wrote: > If you MUST use some sort of shaft grip, I'd cut up some > rubber pieces (from an old bicycle tube or something?) and > wrap tightly around a clean damper shaft. This will help provide > grip and protection from the teeth of the pliers/vice-grip/pipe > wrench/etc. I'm amazed how often I use the strap wrenches in my tool box (I learned a long time ago that metal will easily cut through a cotton rag or sock). I have three strap wrenches, two of them are the smooth kind (the straps look like a fan belt) and will not damage the surface they are gripping and the third strap wrench has a metal chain with round disks (it looks like a medieval weapon) and is great for grabbing things that you don't care about (I often use it for plumbing projects instead of my big Fuller pipe wrenches). A friend spent hours trying to get some rusty shocks off an old Land Rover and after he gave up he was amazed how with the metal strap wrench and an impact gun it took less than 30 seconds per shock. I got all my strap wrenches at Sears and if I didn't inherit my post war Fuller pipe wrenches from my grandfather I would have Sears Craftsman pipe wrenches also. I am amazed that after all these years Sears will still take back any tool no mater how badly you abuse it (last summer we exploded a Craftsman pipe wrench after we put a 10 foot pipe on the end and Sears was happy to give us a new one). Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 P.S. Tonight I was at an interesting wine and cheese event at: http://www.clubsportiva.com It is kind of like a net jet fractional ownership for classic cars... ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
