The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 145 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E34 brake light issues Engine Swap - S-38 into E36 <FS> E36 M3 1996 Re: E34 brake light issues Re: E34 brake light issues RE: Number of M-Coupes produced in 2002? Re: 1996 318is coupe..LSD Re: 1996 318is coupe..LSD clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? seeking ECU remapper Re: [uuc] seeking ECU remapper Re: seeking ECU remapper
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:48:09 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 brake light issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> First thing to suspect with BMW taillights is the bulb itself... the LKM is very sensitive to bulb resistance, and many aftermarket brands are out of spec. They light up, but they do not have the correct resistance to make the LKM happy. Always use Osram/Sylvania bulbs in any BMW. After that, make sure the electrical contacts are clean, use a rough pen eraser on the bulb and the socket tab. Dielectric grease does NOT help conductivity. It is used in electrical situations only because it resists heat and blocks O2 (to reduce corrosion build-up). If anything, dielectric grease will make your electrical connection worse. I suggest cleaning that stuff out as much as possible. Those three things should fix the problem. After that, check the harness connections for corrosion. - Rob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] E34 brake light issues > Hello. Need some help here. Car, 89' 535i, 5spd. I have been plagued by a > brake light that does not want to work for more then a day or so. The bulb > does not burn out, it is just fine, the problem seems to be the contact in > the tail light lens housing. I have tried to bend the tabs out a bit to > make sure there is good contact, I have also tried some dielectric grease > without any success. > Andrew Harkonen > STL > '89 535i, 5spd. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 12:16:41 -0400 (EDT) From: henry butt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Engine Swap - S-38 into E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi listers Can the S-38 engine from a M6 be dropped into the E36 engine bay ? How much would such a job cost ? Also, would someone know the cost of replacing the self-levelling shocks on a M6 with standard Bilsteins ? TIA Henry ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:21:07 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <FS> E36 M3 1996 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I am posting for my brother who is selling his M3 and returning to grad. school. This car is extremely nice and has had no problems in the time he has owned it. Please reply to his e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] See pictures at: http://briefcase.yahoo.com/nickweimer Price $22,500 obo Description: *52,XXX Miles (mainly highway) *Estoril Blau *Dove Gray Leather Interior including M-design "Vader"-style sport seats with tri-color "M-stripes" *5-Speed Manual Transmission *Completely stock *No track/autocross *No accidents *Fold-down rear seats *Mechanically perfect *Upgraded Metal Thermostat Housing *Interior is in great shape *Exterior is beautiful *Garaged since new *Originally purchased in California and spent last 7 years in Tennessee (currently registered in Indiana, but car is located in Tennessee) *No smoke, salt, snow *Mobil 1 *All records (including original window sticker, all owner manuals, and dealer maintenance records) Factory Options: *On-Board Computer *Harmon Kardon *Factory 6-disc CD changer *Heated Front Seats *All Season Traction *Sunroof *Cruise Control *Keyless Entry/BMW Factory Alarm *Brand new Yokohama ES100's with less than 750 miles *Factory front rubber floor mats from E46 and front and rear carpeted floor mats Misc: *BMW Factory Bra (not installed) *30 miles per gallon on interstate!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:32:47 -0500 From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 brake light issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Joe, Thanks for the reply. I am confused. The bottle of CRC Di-electric grease I have states; "improves all electrical connections in adverse conditions." If it does not conduct electricity how is it supposed to do that? Also, it states that it insulates (proves your point) against fog, moisture, etc. So it seems to be claiming to do both. Obviously I was not aware of this stuffs true capabilities/intended use. I thought I had heard/read people mention di-electric grease as a means to aid in electrical connections. I guess I heard wrong, or did not get the gist of what was needed. Anyway, I will try to clean the contacts again, and try a new bulb for kicks and grins. However in case I was not clear the first time, the problem seems to be in the tail/brake light housing, not the small holder for the bulb. Andrew ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 brake light issues > From Andrew Harkonen > > > >Hello. Need some help here. Car, 89' 535i, 5spd. I have been plagued by a > >brake light that does not want to work for more then a day or so. The bulb > >does not burn out, it is just fine, the problem seems to be the contact in > >the tail light lens housing. I have tried to bend the tabs out a bit to > >make sure there is good contact, I have also tried some dielectric grease > >without any success. > > > > Dielectric grease is non-conductive. That is the point of it. It is supposed > to keep the parts of the contacts that are not in contact isolated from the > air and moisture so they don't corrode. If you already have a poor contact > dielectric grease will not improve it and may push it over the edge into not > working. > > I would clean the contacts well (600 grit paper or so, just enough to make > them bright) and make sure that there is sufficient pressure on the contact > points. > > If you have some electrical contact cleaner (I like Caig Labs De-oxit) put a > little contact points and wiggle the bulb a bit. > > >I have taken a jack stand and applied the break pedal and then gone to the > >light and fiddled with it to get it to come on. Cycle the key and the check > >control will clear. Drive for a few miles, turn the car off, start it > >again, drive a few feet, apply brake.....ding, ding, ding "1 brake light". > >It is starting to drive me mad! Any E34 owners out there had this problem > >and found the solution? I have looked at bmwe34.com under the LKM fix, but > >that seems to address a different issue, no? I just have one dodgy brake > >light, low beams are fine. Please help, direct replies are welcome. TIA. > > > > Did you actually replace the bulb yet? It is possible that there is an > intermitent connection in the bulb itself. > > If all this fails, what about the contacts on the connector that goes to the > tail light assembly? Could that be touchy? > > -- Joe > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:00:49 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 brake light issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If the grease conducts electricity, it will short out the circuit. Grease improves connections in _adverse_ conditions, meaning when the terminals would corrode. Gary Derian > Joe, > > Thanks for the reply. > > I am confused. The bottle of CRC Di-electric grease I have states; > "improves all electrical connections in adverse conditions." If it does not > conduct electricity how is it supposed to do that? Also, it states that it > insulates (proves your point) against fog, moisture, etc. So it seems to be > claiming to do both. Obviously I was not aware of this stuffs true > capabilities/intended use. I thought I had heard/read people mention > di-electric grease as a means to aid in electrical connections. I guess I > heard wrong, or did not get the gist of what was needed. > > Anyway, I will try to clean the contacts again, and try a new bulb for kicks > and grins. However in case I was not clear the first time, the problem > seems to be in the tail/brake light housing, not the small holder for the > bulb. > > Andrew > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 11:08 AM > Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 brake light issues > > > > From Andrew Harkonen > > > > > >Hello. Need some help here. Car, 89' 535i, 5spd. I have been plagued > by a > > >brake light that does not want to work for more then a day or so. The > bulb > > >does not burn out, it is just fine, the problem seems to be the contact > in > > >the tail light lens housing. I have tried to bend the tabs out a bit to > > >make sure there is good contact, I have also tried some dielectric grease > > >without any success. > > > > > > > Dielectric grease is non-conductive. That is the point of it. It is > supposed > > to keep the parts of the contacts that are not in contact isolated from > the > > air and moisture so they don't corrode. If you already have a poor contact > > dielectric grease will not improve it and may push it over the edge into > not > > working. > > > > I would clean the contacts well (600 grit paper or so, just enough to make > > them bright) and make sure that there is sufficient pressure on the > contact > > points. > > > > If you have some electrical contact cleaner (I like Caig Labs De-oxit) put > a > > little contact points and wiggle the bulb a bit. > > > > >I have taken a jack stand and applied the break pedal and then gone to > the > > >light and fiddled with it to get it to come on. Cycle the key and the > check > > >control will clear. Drive for a few miles, turn the car off, start it > > >again, drive a few feet, apply brake.....ding, ding, ding "1 brake > light". > > >It is starting to drive me mad! Any E34 owners out there had this > problem > > >and found the solution? I have looked at bmwe34.com under the LKM fix, > but > > >that seems to address a different issue, no? I just have one dodgy brake > > >light, low beams are fine. Please help, direct replies are welcome. > TIA. > > > > > > > Did you actually replace the bulb yet? It is possible that there is an > > intermitent connection in the bulb itself. > > > > If all this fails, what about the contacts on the connector that goes to > the > > tail light assembly? Could that be touchy? > > > > -- Joe > > > > -- > > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:39:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Number of M-Coupes produced in 2002? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Chris, About 300 or so were built for MY2002. You can find a bunch of M Coupe info on www.368s.com, including the numbers built for each year. As far as I know there is no specific mailing list group for the M coupers. Bunch of them chat on the usual BMW forums bimmerfest, bimmerforums, and roadfly. Mike --- Chris Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Does anyone know the exact number of M Coupe's > produced in 2002? > > Is there a website where this kind of information is > kept? > > Lastly: Does anyone know of an M-Coupe digest or > users group? > > Chris > 89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com > <http://www.inlacal.com/> > 01 X5 > 02 M-Coupe > 00 M5 > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25� http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 19:30:00 +0100 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 1996 318is coupe..LSD Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Eddie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "Hi Folks, I have a 1996 318Is at the moment..I have acquired an LSD from a 325i coupe Will this fit directly on? Do you see any problems with fuel consumption, etc?" I see a problem with performance, possibly. Despite your terminology ("325i coupe") I will assume you are in North America, with a manual-transmission 318is imported by BMW NA, because it's easier :). M44-powered 318ises like yours have the same 3.45 rear end (manual transmission) from the M42 version, whilst its European counterparts were granted a fractionally longer 3.38. An odd product engineering decision - there's barely a 2% difference between the two. The diff, limited-slip or otherwise, from a manual US-market 325i has a 3.15:1 ratio; from an automatic, 3.91. In the first instance, the gearing would be too tall (over 40 mph in 1st, for instance); in the second, too short (giving you less than 48 mph in 2nd, and way less than 20 mph per 1000 rpm in top). Your best bet is to seek a used LSD from an earlier M42 car. Or, see if someone can install a shorter gearset in the diff unit you already have. 3.64, as used in South Africa-market cars for a while, might be a nice compromise. Andy T '03 318i 2.0. Sealed diffs these days ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:43:14 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 1996 318is coupe..LSD Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A US spec E30 325i with stick shift has a 3.73. 6 cyl cars have the medium diff. 4 cyl cars have the small diff (///M models go up one size). The driveshaft and axles may not fit perfectly. Gary Derian > Eddie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: > > "Hi Folks, > I have a 1996 318Is at the moment..I have acquired an LSD from a 325i coupe > Will this fit directly on? > Do you see any problems with fuel consumption, etc?" > > I see a problem with performance, possibly. Despite your terminology ("325i > coupe") I will assume you are in North America, with a manual-transmission > 318is imported by BMW NA, because it's easier :). > > M44-powered 318ises like yours have the same 3.45 rear end (manual > transmission) from the M42 version, whilst its European counterparts were > granted a fractionally longer 3.38. An odd product engineering decision - > there's barely a 2% difference between the two. > > The diff, limited-slip or otherwise, from a manual US-market 325i has a > 3.15:1 ratio; from an automatic, 3.91. In the first instance, the gearing > would be too tall (over 40 mph in 1st, for instance); in the second, too > short (giving you less than 48 mph in 2nd, and way less than 20 mph per 1000 > rpm in top). > > Your best bet is to seek a used LSD from an earlier M42 car. Or, see if > someone can install a shorter gearset in the diff unit you already have. > 3.64, as used in South Africa-market cars for a while, might be a nice > compromise. > > Andy T > '03 318i 2.0. Sealed diffs these days > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 12:40:14 -0700 From: "scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey guys, Last night I was driving home from work and the clutch travel had increased by 50% before the clutch would disengage (pushing down on the pedal). The clutch itself still felt fine, grabbed strong. This morning I went out to drive it and the clutch went all the way to the floor and did not disengage. Since the clutch seems OK (never slipped or chattered), I'm imagining that the problem is the hydraulic system; master cylinder or slave cylinder. I checked the brake fluid level and it's AOK so I know that's not the problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I have the Bentley manual so I can do the repair myself, but I'm looking for some "Yep, sounds familiar, watch out for problem X when doing the repair" or "You may want to consider doing or looking at X before tearing into the hydraulics system". Thanks guys, this is on a 1990 325is. Just turned 140k miles. - Scott ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:40:46 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bleed the clutch (and brakes while you are at it) using the procedure specified in the Bentley manual. That should cure your problem. If the problem persists after proper bleeding then you are looking at either a new clutch master or slave cylinder, or the flexible rubber hose that connects to the slave. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 -----Original Message----- From: scott [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Hey guys, Last night I was driving home from work and the clutch travel had increased by 50% before the clutch would disengage (pushing down on the pedal). The clutch itself still felt fine, grabbed strong. This morning I went out to drive it and the clutch went all the way to the floor and did not disengage. Since the clutch seems OK (never slipped or chattered), I'm imagining that the problem is the hydraulic system; master cylinder or slave cylinder. I checked the brake fluid level and it's AOK so I know that's not the problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I have the Bentley manual so I can do the repair myself, but I'm looking for some "Yep, sounds familiar, watch out for problem X when doing the repair" or "You may want to consider doing or looking at X before tearing into the hydraulics system". Thanks guys, this is on a 1990 325is. Just turned 140k miles. - Scott Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:43:03 -0500 From: "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Scott, to quote you: yup, this sounds familiar... The same thing happened to me this spring as I pulled my 1995 M3 out of 'minor' storage. My problem was a very small leak in the slave cylinder. $60 for a new slave cylinder later, all was well. The install was very straight forward...but I read somewhere that you need to be careful when installing the new slave cylinder: Apparently you can mis-install it such that the rod doesn't push against the clutch (not the clutch, but whatever the slave cylinder rod pushes against to disengage the clutch) and if the rod is mis alighned, it will be pushed all the way out when you press the clutch pedal, not only ruining your new slave cylinder, but leaving the rod inside your tranny - which you then need to remove to get to the rod. Again, I didn't have any issues with this and I think you'd really have to mis-align the slave to get this to happen...but again, just somethign I read on another forum... Additionally, I think Bentleys recommends bleeding the slave both uninstalled (installed doesn't allow air to the ideal bleed point)...and bleeding again after installed. I also read that you don't have to do both, but I did... Good luck! Battman -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of scott Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 2:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Hey guys, Last night I was driving home from work and the clutch travel had increased by 50% before the clutch would disengage (pushing down on the pedal). The clutch itself still felt fine, grabbed strong. This morning I went out to drive it and the clutch went all the way to the floor and did not disengage. Since the clutch seems OK (never slipped or chattered), I'm imagining that the problem is the hydraulic system; master cylinder or slave cylinder. I checked the brake fluid level and it's AOK so I know that's not the problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I have the Bentley manual so I can do the repair myself, but I'm looking for some "Yep, sounds familiar, watch out for problem X when doing the repair" or "You may want to consider doing or looking at X before tearing into the hydraulics system". Thanks guys, this is on a 1990 325is. Just turned 140k miles. - Scott Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:29:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, If the clutch failure was preceded by a whine with the clutch in, it could also be the throwout bearing. On my car the clutch pedal travel suddenly got longer when the TO bearing disintegrated and the clutch fork was trying to push on the pressure plate fingers with what remained of it. If the failure was not preceded by whining, then grinding from the clutch fork hitting the (rotating) pressure plate, then the metallic zinging of broken pressure plate fingers bouncing around the bellhousing, then your diagnosis of a hydraulic problem is probably correct. Just wanted to throw it out there (pun intended) as another possibility. If you pull the slave cylinder out (easily done without the need for opening the hydraulic lines) and the plastic pivot ball on the end looks good then you're probably OK. I don't recall if the hole for the slave cylinder is big enough to get an inspection mirror (think dentist) through it, but while you have the slave cylinder off I'd suggest trying to take a peek in there to see how things look. Brian '94 325ic -----Original Message----- From: scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Apr 20, 2004 12:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] clutch goes to the floor - hydraulics? Hey guys, Last night I was driving home from work and the clutch travel had increased by 50% before the clutch would disengage (pushing down on the pedal). The clutch itself still felt fine, grabbed strong. This morning I went out to drive it and the clutch went all the way to the floor and did not disengage. Since the clutch seems OK (never slipped or chattered), I'm imagining that the problem is the hydraulic system; master cylinder or slave cylinder. I checked the brake fluid level and it's AOK so I know that's not the problem. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I have the Bentley manual so I can do the repair myself, but I'm looking for some "Yep, sounds familiar, watch out for problem X when doing the repair" or "You may want to consider doing or looking at X before tearing into the hydraulics system". Thanks guys, this is on a 1990 325is. Just turned 140k miles. - Scott ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 13:29:22 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: seeking ECU remapper Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Seeking ECU remapper: Have an interesting project that is producing 6% dynoed hp and torque increases on top of previous improvements, for an OBDII E36 //M3 with stock air sensor. Now looking for a remapper to help dial it in and compensate for side effects which occur with stock and common aftermarket remaps. Thanks, Barry. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 14:39:57 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] seeking ECU remapper Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I haven't used these guys http://www.dynospotracing.com/ they are local to you. M -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of jkerouac Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 1:29 PM To: bmw digest; [uucdigest] Subject: [uuc] [UUC] seeking ECU remapper Seeking ECU remapper: Have an interesting project that is producing 6% dynoed hp and torque increases on top of previous improvements, for an OBDII E36 //M3 with stock air sensor. Now looking for a remapper to help dial it in and compensate for side effects which occur with stock and common aftermarket remaps. Thanks, Barry. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 17:05:32 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: seeking ECU remapper Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jim Conforti used to offer remapping software on his original site, though the bonnevillemotorwerks site is under construction at this point. Not sure if you'd want to discuss it with him, but I think he's still available at his xmission.com address. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 50k E36 325i, 220k [For Sale] Vienna, VA ------- ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
