The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 139 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Bilstein Bump Stops Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Paint code for Polaris Silver? Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? WTB: G-Analyst Re: WTB: G-Analyst Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Wanted: car cover for e39 M5/5 series and an e30 M3
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 11:50:07 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> with the most modern plugs having either a nickel flash or some other interface coating at the threads, is anti-seaze really necessary? -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 14:54:35 -0500 From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Bilstein Bump Stops Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At the risk of beating this topic to death, I'm still a bit confused about which bump stops people refer to. On my '90 535i, I've got bump stops slipped onto the rod on all four strut cartridges. I put them back on when I replaced the stock struts with Bilstein HDs. Are these stops redundant? When people refer to "trimming the bump stop in a Bilstein strut" are they referring to something inside the cartridge? Or, are they discussing the ones slipped onto the rod? Robert _________________________________________________________________ Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 19:06:57 -0400 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At least for the 3 series, they are talking about the internal bumpstop. This article has a good description of how to do it. I did a set of M# struts last night and getting the insert out of the body is a bitch in capital letters. I had to use a hand held impact wrench with a screwdriver bit to unscrew the insert through the body. When they say to soak it in penetrating oil, they are not kidding. http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > At the risk of beating this topic to death, I'm still a bit confused about > which bump stops people refer to. On my '90 535i, I've got bump stops > slipped onto the rod on all four strut cartridges. I put them back on when I > replaced the stock struts with Bilstein HDs. Are these stops redundant? When > people refer to "trimming the bump stop in a Bilstein strut" are they > referring to something inside the cartridge? Or, are they discussing the > ones slipped onto the rod? > > Robert ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 21:44:59 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> They should take you about 10 mins per side, if you take your time. I recently did a front set of E36 M3 bilstiens in less time. 1. bottom of strut, remove bolt on threaded shaft 2. use a torch to heat the threaded shaft enough to weaken/melt the thread locker. About 45 seconds of heating the exposed threaded rod works. Carefully heat the threaded shaft while making sure you are not heating the shock assembly too much (hot to the touch) 3. unscrew threaded shaft with very large flathead screwdriver while holding strut housing. 4. carefully slide shock assembly out and place on clean paper or towel. 5. remove the rubber bump stop from shock shaft, trim x mm off of the bump stop, replace on shaft 6. install in the reverse order, use loctite on threaded rod when installing 7. done Poster below probably didn't heat the threaded rod to weaken the loctite thus needing a impact wrench. YMMV always use eye and hand protection while heating anything. Any bodily harm or death due to above procedure is not my responsibility. If such happens, thanks in advance for cleaning the gene pool, lol. Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of -> Michael Gambini -> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 7:07 PM -> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Bump Stops -> -> -> At least for the 3 series, they are talking about the -> internal bumpstop. This article has a good description of -> how to do it. I did a set of M# struts last night and -> getting the insert out of the body is a bitch in capital -> letters. I had to use a hand held impact wrench with a -> screwdriver bit to unscrew the insert through the body. When -> they say to soak it in penetrating oil, they are not kidding. -> http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > At the risk of beating this topic to death, I'm still a bit confused > about which bump stops people refer to. On my '90 535i, I've got bump > stops slipped onto the rod on all four strut cartridges. I put them > back on when I > replaced the stock struts with Bilstein HDs. Are these stops > redundant? When > people refer to "trimming the bump stop in a Bilstein strut" are they > referring to something inside the cartridge? Or, are they discussing > the ones slipped onto the rod? > > Robert Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 06:57:28 -0400 From: matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Michael Lawrence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does this work with regular Bilstein HD cartidges? I understand this will be the only way I can prevent them from bottoming out in my lowered 325iX. -Matt Michael Lawrence wrote: >They should take you about 10 mins per side, if you take your time. I >recently did a front set of E36 M3 bilstiens in less time. > >1. bottom of strut, remove bolt on threaded shaft >2. use a torch to heat the threaded shaft enough to weaken/melt the >thread locker. About 45 seconds of heating the exposed threaded rod >works. Carefully heat the threaded shaft while making sure you are not >heating the shock assembly too much (hot to the touch) >3. unscrew threaded shaft with very large flathead screwdriver while >holding strut housing. >4. carefully slide shock assembly out and place on clean paper or towel. > >5. remove the rubber bump stop from shock shaft, trim x mm off of the >bump stop, replace on shaft >6. install in the reverse order, use loctite on threaded rod when >installing >7. done > >Poster below probably didn't heat the threaded rod to weaken the loctite >thus needing a impact wrench. > >YMMV always use eye and hand protection while heating anything. Any >bodily harm or death due to above procedure is not my responsibility. >If such happens, thanks in advance for cleaning the gene pool, lol. > >Mike > >-> -----Original Message----- >-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of >-> Michael Gambini >-> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 7:07 PM >-> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >-> Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Bump Stops >-> >-> >-> At least for the 3 series, they are talking about the >-> internal bumpstop. This article has a good description of >-> how to do it. I did a set of M# struts last night and >-> getting the insert out of the body is a bitch in capital >-> letters. I had to use a hand held impact wrench with a >-> screwdriver bit to unscrew the insert through the body. When >-> they say to soak it in penetrating oil, they are not kidding. >-> >http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm > >MikeG > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >>At the risk of beating this topic to death, I'm still a bit confused >>about which bump stops people refer to. On my '90 535i, I've got bump >>stops slipped onto the rod on all four strut cartridges. I put them >>back on when >> >> >I > > >>replaced the stock struts with Bilstein HDs. Are these stops >>redundant? >> >> >When > > >>people refer to "trimming the bump stop in a Bilstein strut" are they >>referring to something inside the cartridge? Or, are they discussing >>the ones slipped onto the rod? >> >>Robert >> >> > > >Search the >ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >________________________________________________________________________ >__ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . >http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 16:41:51 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott wrote: >I'm thinking about trading my '01 M5 for a p-car. Now that my older son is driving, I don't really need the extra seating. I'd like a simpler and lighter car. As much as I love my M5, its service record I think has been less than stellar, although probably about par for BMW (cam position sensors, final stage resistor, and recently, vanos replacement). I'm hoping a Porsche would be better, but I haven't owned a Porsche and I don't know if that's a realistic expectation. So let me ask those of you who have experience with both marques how maintenance, dependability, and overall cost of ownership compares. My guess is that higher entry cost of the Porsche might be more than offset by less depreciation, and fewer expensive repairs when out of warranty. I'm thinking of a 993 or 996 coupe. This would need to function as a daily driver. I'm not sure about a turbo. _________________ Scott, I can't recommend the Rennlist email list and web forums highly enough. Just as I recommend this UUC list to fellow Porsche-philes with BMW questions, so too I suggest that you head on over there with questions. Lots of helpful people, and a treasure trove of info in the archives. Specifically - here are my $.02, coming from a long-time Porsche (and BMW) owner. First off, the 993 v. 996 debate has been going on for about as long as, say, the E30 v. E36 v. E46 M3 debate. General consensus is that the 993 was the best of the traditional air-cooled 911. Pretty darned reliable, very fast, and beautiful. The 996 debuted with some teething problems, and considered less attractive, BUT was substantially more practical, MUCH easier to service, much more space inside and way faster. Pretty much a new-sheet design, and a modern one at that. As the 996 aged, most of the problems were addressed, with the 2002+ models pretty near perfect. Very reliable, with revamped looks (more turbo-like, less Boxster-like), and more power & torque). In either 993 or 996, there are lots of options to consider, as well as RWD v. AWD, Targa, "S" models, cabriolets, and of course the TURBO. In terms of comparable reliability, the early 993s had their share of teething problems too, but the only really significant 996 problem to date (except for the REALLY EARLY 1999 models) has been the occasional Rear Main Seal (RMS) problem. When it hits, Porsche has pretty much replaced the engine. Gasp, you may wonder? Well, it's pretty easy to drop the motor out and replace it (with a factory rebuilt motor). The RMS can be fixed too, but Porsche has been pretty good about paying for this. The cars that will suffer from this problem will likely have suffered it already and got it fixed. Otherwise, most of the other problems are "known" (e.g., Mass-airflow sensor failure caused by over-oiling of K&N filter, low coolant sensor/light, airbag light caused by seat belt buckle) and can be easily addressed. Same too with the 993 (e.g., replacement of wiring harness). If you're bigger/taller, you'll fit better in a 996. The ergonomics are a whole lot better (pedals, shifting). The 996 is pretty much a modern car, though accusations that it lacks the Porsche "feel" are only somewhat true. It will spank a 993 around the track. Oil changes every 15k miles, and a major service at 30k miles that even an idiot like me can do in my own garage in a couple of hours. If you want to track the car, you can bolt in a FACTORY roll bar, seats and harnesses in less than a couple of hours. Or even a factory roll cage. As for cost of ownership, it depends. Depreciation is every bit as significant as BMW, with bigger hits taken by those who chose to spend $$$ on things like extra leather interior bits, carbon fiber overlays, etc. It's not difficult to option out a 911 to over $100k (yeah, that's right, it's easy to get $30k+ in fancy interior options). If you do that though, you'll lose even more in depreciation. Pricing? IMHO, depending on mileage and condition: 1995 993 $16k-$35k 1996-1997 993 $20k-$40k Add a thousand or so for Carrera 4, another few for the rare Targa. Add $4k-$6k for the Cabrio. The rarish widebody Carrera 4S and Carrera S (C2S) will sell for $35k-$52k; both were turbo wide-bodied, but only the C4S had the turbo suspension and brakes. There was no widebody cabrio. 1999 996 $32k-$41k 2000-2001 996 $38k-$46k 2002-2003 996 $45k-65k Add a couple of grand for the C4, another few for the rare Targa. Add $4k-$6k for the Cabrio. The rarish Carrera 4S will be $50k+, and the C4S cabrio is still new and expensive. Then we get to the Turbo. And 993 turbo was an incredibly car, the 993 Turbo S even more so, but perhaps not worth the perceived premium price. The 996 Turbo is just amazing. It's common now to see tuners advertising 500hp AT THE WHEELS for ~$10k-$15k in chip tuning and a few hard parts. And they've been getting relatively good reliability too. A nice used 2001 996tt will run $70k-$85k, and it's not tough to build yourself a $100k car that will literally run pretty close with an Enzo Ferrari. No kidding. And for 2004 there is a turbo cabriolet, the first since 1989. Not cheap. Rarer still are the GT2 and GT3. Early GT2s can be had for $130k-$150k, and you can now buy new GT3s for MSRP, or even a tiny bit off. That's it, my fingers hurt. vty, --Dennis (wife drives a stock 1999 996, loves it, will eat stock M3s at the track) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:09:57 -0500 From: "M Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Go to www.rennlist.com and ask on the 993 and 996 lists. I don't have any experience with rear-engine p-cars but I used to have (and still miss) a 944turbo. Mark Kittock > > > I'm thinking of a 993 or 996 coupe. This would need to function as a daily > driver. I'm not sure about a turbo. > > TIA for any replies, on or off list. > > Scott Staewen > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 17:27:57 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The guys in the parts dept. at my local dealer say they have never heard of Polaris Silver, even though I know it's worn by many BMWs. They say that they need the number to order me one of those touch-up tubes with the little brush in the lid. I remember reading somewhere that one of BMW's body paint colors is nearly identical to the metallic silver paint found on many wheels, including those sold by BMW. I'm pretty sure it's Polaris, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm refinishing the polished rim part of some aftermarket wheels, and I accidentally hit the painted part with the buffer in a few small spots. I just need some (non-spray) paint similar to what's already there to touch up my mistakes before putting on the new clearcoat. TIA, Mike Kozitka ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 15:05:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike, A two second search on Google and I found this: http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/paint.htm As far as whether it is a match for BMW wheels, I haven't heard that but that would be interesting to find out. I have heard Honda has a paint that matches very close (Honda Noble Silver from 1988-1992) but I have no personal experience with that. I also found this in a quick Google search: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/exterior/all_wheel_paint_color.html Regards, Rich --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > The guys in the parts dept. at my local dealer say they have never heard of Polaris > Silver, even > though I know it's worn by many BMWs. They say that they need the number to order > me one of > those touch-up tubes with the little brush in the lid. > > I remember reading somewhere that one of BMW's body paint colors is nearly identical > to the > metallic silver paint found on many wheels, including those sold by BMW. I'm pretty > sure it's > Polaris, but please correct me if I'm wrong. > > I'm refinishing the polished rim part of some aftermarket wheels, and I accidentally > hit the > painted part with the buffer in a few small spots. I just need some (non-spray) > paint similar > to what's already there to touch up my mistakes before putting on the new clearcoat. > > TIA, > > Mike Kozitka ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 17:43:44 -0500 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wurth silver wheel paint is probably what you want. http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=11322 Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 4:28 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Paint code for Polaris Silver? The guys in the parts dept. at my local dealer say they have never heard of Polaris Silver, even though I know it's worn by many BMWs. They say that they need the number to order me one of those touch-up tubes with the little brush in the lid. I remember reading somewhere that one of BMW's body paint colors is nearly identical to the metallic silver paint found on many wheels, including those sold by BMW. I'm pretty sure it's Polaris, but please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm refinishing the polished rim part of some aftermarket wheels, and I accidentally hit the painted part with the buffer in a few small spots. I just need some (non-spray) paint similar to what's already there to touch up my mistakes before putting on the new clearcoat. TIA, Mike Kozitka Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:12:29 -0400 From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: WTB: G-Analyst Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend of mine is looking to buy a G-Analyst. If you have one that you are selling, please drop me an email. Thanks, Dean ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:32:07 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: WTB: G-Analyst Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an Valentine G-Analyst that I'd part with. It's in the original box even. It's used, and the box (but not the equipment) is mildly water damaged. What's a fair price? Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > > A friend of mine is looking to buy a G-Analyst. If you have one that you > are selling, please drop me an email. > > Thanks, > > Dean > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.655 / Virus Database: 420 - Release Date: 4/8/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 22:40:13 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Paint code for Polaris Silver? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Too bad they have been backordered forever. I see that capitalism is at its finest though...someone on ebay has been selling a can of Wurth silver and a can of clear for $50+ for a while. They must have had a stock of it since no one else does, including the Wurth rep I talk to. I have been told it is supposed to be coming... Later, Rich > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Malcolm Reitz > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 6:44 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Paint code for Polaris Silver? > > > Wurth silver wheel paint is probably what you want. > > http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=11322 > > Malcolm > '88 M5 > '98 328i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 20:47:24 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is a math formula to account for the coefficient of friction in threads and how that affects torque. Plugs are easy though. Torque then until the gasket crushes, which you can feel, then a touch more. Gary Derian > So if you use anti-seize on the spark plug threads, do you take this into > account when you torque down the spark plugs? I always assumed that the > spark plug torque spec was for "dry" threads, not "wet" (lubricated) > threads. Wet torque values are lower than dry values for the same fastener > (it all has to do with enlogation of the fastener and fastener stress), but > since there's not a mathmatical formula for converting toque from dry to > wet, what spec do you using when tightening a spark plug with anti-seize on > the threads? > > Regards, > Steve > > jkerouac wrote: > > > Steve, > > It may have been me who recommended anti-sieze. > > No different torque spec is needed. A little dab on the threads is > > sufficient as it will spread around as the threads are turned. If you > > work on enough cars eventually you will come across a siezed spark plug > > or snapped off lug bolt. Ugliest is a snapped off spark plug. > > Barry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2004 23:09:34 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Wanted: car cover for e39 M5/5 series and an e30 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I would like to find a car cover for my 89 M3 and my 00 M5. I do not want a generic cover. I would like for the covers to have been made specifically for these cars. If anyone has one/them lying around, please email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank you, Chris ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
