The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 140 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Wanted: car cover for e39 M5/5 series and an e30 M3 Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Tiger Woods drives his BMW ... Re: Tiger Woods drives his BMW ... E34 front shock mounts "Lifetime" fluids? Re: [uuc] "Lifetime" fluids? Re: "Lifetime" fluids? E39 Cluster Pixels Out 91 525 For Sale or Parts? [e30]Good Price on Rims? <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Re: <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Re: <E36>Brake Diagnosis help?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:45:37 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wanted: car cover for e39 M5/5 series and an e30 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't think one cover will fit both those cars very well :-). Gary Derian > Group, > > I would like to find a car cover for my 89 M3 and my 00 M5. I do not want a > generic cover. I would like for the covers to have been made specifically > for these cars. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 09:17:08 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis, Thanks for the very thorough and helpful reply. And thanks to all who replied off list as well. Rennlist looks like a great site. It's going to take quite a while to wade through. Figuring out what to do should be fun -- even if I end up doing nothing at all. Scott _________________________________________________________________ Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 10:38:26 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: bmw vs porsche ?'s Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott wrote: >Dennis, Thanks for the very thorough and helpful reply. And thanks to all who replied off list as well. Rennlist looks like a great site. It's going to take quite a while to wade through. Figuring out what to do should be fun -- even if I end up doing nothing at all. _________________ **OR** you could wait a couple of years for the brand new Porsche uber-coupe (albeit with four doors), front-engined, powered with your choice of V-8 motors (a la Cayenne) or... wait for it... the V-10 from the Carrera GT supercar. Will have over 600 horsepower, naturally aspirated. Officially confirmed, out in this week's Auto motor und sport. AMG and M5 look out? Perhaps.... :-) vty, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:02:54 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Tiger Woods drives his BMW ... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On a golf tour in Ireland, Tiger Woods drives his BMW into a petrol station in a remote part of the Irish countryside. The pump attendant obviously knows nothing about golf, greeting him in a typical Irish manner completely unaware of the identity of the golfing pro. "Top of the mornin' to yer, sir," says the attendant. Tiger nods a quick "hello" and bends forward to pick up the nozzle. As he does so, two tees fall out of his shirt pocket onto the ground. "What are those?" asks the attendant. "They're called tees," replies Tiger. "Well, what on the good earth are they for?" inquires the Irishman. "They're for resting my balls on when I'm driving," says Tiger. "Feckin Jaysus," says the Irishman, "BMW tinks of everything!" Lew Becker ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 08:11:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Tiger Woods drives his BMW ... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Lew Becker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On a golf tour in Ireland, Tiger Woods drives his BMW ... I thought Tiger drove a Buick? Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:51:19 -0500 From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 front shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Looking for some thoughts on the necessity of replacing the upper shock mounts on a '93 525iT. I'm doing new shocks and upper/lower control arms (w/750 bushings). Have one strut assembly out; there's no looseness in the strut bearing, though it doesn't feel totally smooth like a wheel bearing if I turn it back and forth quickly, but it's smooth with normal swiveling. I don't find any record of these being replaced by previous owners, though the records are not 100% complete; the car has 257K miles. Bought the other pieces from reputable parts supplier and the guy suggested I not buy new strut bearings unless the old ones are bad. Do these things need to be replaced? Do they need to show looseness to indicate replacement? What's the criteria for deteriming good or bad? Please copy responses to me directly as I'm on the digest version and things seem slow lately. TIA Clarence West Bend, WI ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 10:58:13 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The transmission on my 2000 328i has been getting a little stiff (especially when cold), so I figured it was about time to change the trans and diff fluids (49k miles...ok, past time). But every time I talk with someone about getting replacement fluid, I am told that these fluids are "lifetime" fluids and shouldn't be replaced. Is this for real? Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or experience is appreciated. Thanks, John ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 10:08:22 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lifetime = lifetime of the warranty Seems as your warranty is about up - I'd replace it with the appropriate RedLine fluid if I were you. Call Redline and they should be able to tell you what to use. http://www.redlineoil.com/default.asp Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 9:58 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? The transmission on my 2000 328i has been getting a little stiff (especially when cold), so I figured it was about time to change the trans and diff fluids (49k miles...ok, past time). But every time I talk with someone about getting replacement fluid, I am told that these fluids are "lifetime" fluids and shouldn't be replaced. Is this for real? Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or experience is appreciated. Thanks, John Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 10:49:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, 15 Apr 2004, John Riganati wrote: > Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and > differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently > the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or > experience is appreciated. I have a 2000 328Ci, and changed my lifetime fluids recently. I used Redline D4 ATF for the tranny, and 75W90 gear oil for the rear diff. You can get procedures for the E46 here: http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_rear_diff_fluid.shtml http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_tran_fluid.shtml We basically pumped enough of both fluids in until it overflowed, so I'd have an extra bottle of both fluids on hand just in case. I had two bottles of each, and had leftover fluid that was shared with someone else who was doing his lifetime fluids at the same time. The fluid that came out was pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what lifetime means in that context. Once switched to Redline, I'd change the fluids every 30k miles, as people report that the Redline fluid gets dirty faster than the BMW lifetime fluid. The shifting feels the same as before, I think, but we put in a UUC Evo 3 shortshifter at the same time, so it's not exactly a controlled test. --Andre ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:22:20 -0500 From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E39 Cluster Pixels Out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Has anyone on this list used the cluster repair guys with the website "vdorepair.com"? I have a 99 540 with several pixels out in the display and would love to have it fixed, but don't want to spend the big bucks to do it 'right'. They appear to charge vastly different amounts depending on how much warranty you buy. Does this imply they really don't know what they are doing and the fix job is a crapshoot? Does anyone really know the technical details of how this fix is done? Love to hear from you if you do. Thanks. Steve Conner Kokomo, IN ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:28:49 -0500 From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 91 525 For Sale or Parts? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> We have a 91 525 with 290,000 miles and some body damage that we are done using. We have had the car for about the last 40,000 miles and have taken care of it very well. It has a rebuilt tranny, good control arms w/750 bushings, a new set of coils and just about every other sensor on the engine (the coils ultimately fixed the problem) replaced. The insides are decent, but my step-son ran into the back of someone at faily low speed and busted the front bumper cover, some grill parts, etc. The car still runs and drives perfectly, but I just don't have any further use for it. Does anyone on this list want this car or should I try to part it out. Obviously, I am not looking for very much money from it, but I would like to see someone else have it, if they would actually drive the car. If you are interested or just have some advice for me, please drop me a line. Thanks. Steve Conner Kokomo, IN ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 13:57:21 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [e30]Good Price on Rims? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Fellas, I have someone who is willing to sell me 5 15" BBS rims for the Dirty e30. Three have the hubcaps, all need to be refinished but are straight. What is a good price? I don't want to overpay as a result of my wanting something 'rare' that may not be :) Thanks in advance, Jim Laing Evo Clown ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 11:39:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A few weeks and about 2000 miles ago I replaced the pads and rotors on my 94 325ic. Yesterday after getting off the highway I could smell hot brakes. I pulled over and found that the right front brake pads appear to be dragging on the rotor. Besides being the obvious source of the odor, that wheel was hot to the touch while the others were cool (ambient temp was mid 40's here). I hadn't noticed anything unusual about the braking performance or any pull in the steering. I bled a bit of fluid from that caliper and it looked clean. I pushed the piston back into the caliper enough to allow the wheel to rotate freely. I removed and inspected the guide pins and there didn't appear to be any evidence of binding. There didn't appear to be any appreciable wear on the pads although the rotor was slightly blued. I buttoned everything back up and drove the car to work this morning and experienced the problem again. A new symptom at lower speeds was a shudder in the steering w! heel, presumably from the drag on one front wheel. I presume that for some reason there is residual pressure being maintained on the caliper piston after the brake pedal is released. As I mentioned, I pushed the piston back into the bore, but with almost brand new pads it only moved maybe a millimeter which makes it hard to judge how freely the piston is moving in the bore. Would a sticking piston behave this way? I'm guessing it might be time for a caliper rebuild. Can anyone suggest other possible causes or procedures to help identify the problem? Thanks, Brian '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 14:07:59 -0500 From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I experienced the same problem. I reasoned that the piston is sticking at the extent of its travel so I removed a pad and applied the brake pedal to extend the piston beyond its normal travel to get past any sort of galling, corrosion buildup or whatever. I pushed it back and repeated the process three times. Put everything together and it has been fine for about 15K miles so far. Next time it sticks I will just replace the caliper. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 1:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? A few weeks and about 2000 miles ago I replaced the pads and rotors on my 94 325ic. Yesterday after getting off the highway I could smell hot brakes. I pulled over and found that the right front brake pads appear to be dragging on the rotor. Besides being the obvious source of the odor, that wheel was hot to the touch while the others were cool (ambient temp was mid 40's here). I hadn't noticed anything unusual about the braking performance or any pull in the steering. I bled a bit of fluid from that caliper and it looked clean. I pushed the piston back into the caliper enough to allow the wheel to rotate freely. I removed and inspected the guide pins and there didn't appear to be any evidence of binding. There didn't appear to be any appreciable wear on the pads although the rotor was slightly blued. I buttoned everything back up and drove the car to work this morning and experienced the problem again. A new symptom at lower speeds was a shudder in the steering w! heel, presumably from the drag on one front wheel. I presume that for some reason there is residual pressure being maintained on the caliper piston after the brake pedal is released. As I mentioned, I pushed the piston back into the bore, but with almost brand new pads it only moved maybe a millimeter which makes it hard to judge how freely the piston is moving in the bore. Would a sticking piston behave this way? I'm guessing it might be time for a caliper rebuild. Can anyone suggest other possible causes or procedures to help identify the problem? Thanks, Brian '94 325ic Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:44:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sam, Good idea - I'll give it a shot. I guess it makes sense that when I replaced the pads it moved the piston to a different part of it's range of travel that it hadn't seen since the last set of new pads. I don't know when that was, but it was more than 3 1/2 years and 45K miles ago when I bought the car so it stands to reason there might be some "gunk" there. As an added bonus it won't require any parts or tools I don't already have on hand. Thanks for the tip! Brian -----Original Message----- From: Sam Drake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Apr 15, 2004 12:07 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? I experienced the same problem. I reasoned that the piston is sticking at the extent of its travel so I removed a pad and applied the brake pedal to extend the piston beyond its normal travel to get past any sort of galling, corrosion buildup or whatever. I pushed it back and repeated the process three times. Put everything together and it has been fine for about 15K miles so far. Next time it sticks I will just replace the caliper. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 1:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? A few weeks and about 2000 miles ago I replaced the pads and rotors on my 94 325ic. Yesterday after getting off the highway I could smell hot brakes. I pulled over and found that the right front brake pads appear to be dragging on the rotor. Besides being the obvious source of the odor, that wheel was hot to the touch while the others were cool (ambient temp was mid 40's here). I hadn't noticed anything unusual about the braking performance or any pull in the steering. I bled a bit of fluid from that caliper and it looked clean. I pushed the piston back into the caliper enough to allow the wheel to rotate freely. I removed and inspected the guide pins and there didn't appear to be any evidence of binding. There didn't appear to be any appreciable wear on the pads although the rotor was slightly blued. I buttoned everything back up and drove the car to work this morning and experienced the problem again. A new symptom at lower speeds was a shudder in the steering w! heel, presumably from the drag on one front wheel. I presume that for some reason there is residual pressure being maintained on the caliper piston after the brake pedal is released. As I mentioned, I pushed the piston back into the bore, but with almost brand new pads it only moved maybe a millimeter which makes it hard to judge how freely the piston is moving in the bore. Would a sticking piston behave this way? I'm guessing it might be time for a caliper rebuild. Can anyone suggest other possible causes or procedures to help identify the problem? Thanks, Brian '94 325ic Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
