The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 141 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Wanted: Automatic transmission 89 325i <OT> cd changer question Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Re: [uuc] Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Re: [uuc] Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure. Bumble bees under car-- What gives? Re: Bumble bees under car-- What gives? Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Re: E39 Cluster Pixels Out
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 12:50:25 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> the piston is sticking. time for a rebuild. sometimes you can get lucky by forcing the piston back into the bore the whole way but don't count on it. Also it's a good idea to lube with a tiny bit of anti-seize the "lip" that the pads rest/guide on the caliper assembly. You should be able to somewhat easily push the piston back into the bore with a pair of channel locks. If you can't you definitely need to rebuild the caliper. Parts are cheap and it's not too hard once you've done it a few times. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? A few weeks and about 2000 miles ago I replaced the pads and rotors on my 94 325ic. Yesterday after getting off the highway I could smell hot brakes. I pulled over and found that the right front brake pads appear to be dragging on the rotor. Besides being the obvious source of the odor, that wheel was hot to the touch while the others were cool (ambient temp was mid 40's here). I hadn't noticed anything unusual about the braking performance or any pull in the steering. I bled a bit of fluid from that caliper and it looked clean. I pushed the piston back into the caliper enough to allow the wheel to rotate freely. I removed and inspected the guide pins and there didn't appear to be any evidence of binding. There didn't appear to be any appreciable wear on the pads although the rotor was slightly blued. I buttoned everything back up and drove the car to work this morning and experienced the problem again. A new symptom at lower speeds was a shudder in the steering w! heel, presumably from the drag on one front wheel. I presume that for some reason there is residual pressure being maintained on the caliper piston after the brake pedal is released. As I mentioned, I pushed the piston back into the bore, but with almost brand new pads it only moved maybe a millimeter which makes it hard to judge how freely the piston is moving in the bore. Would a sticking piston behave this way? I'm guessing it might be time for a caliper rebuild. Can anyone suggest other possible causes or procedures to help identify the problem? Thanks, Brian '94 325ic Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 16:48:06 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I'm going to try Sam's suggestion of cycling the piston back and forth a few times as a (hopefully effective) temporary measure until I can do a rebuild for a more permanent solution. Thanks, Brian -----Original Message----- From: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Apr 15, 2004 3:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? the piston is sticking. time for a rebuild. sometimes you can get lucky by forcing the piston back into the bore the whole way but don't count on it. Also it's a good idea to lube with a tiny bit of anti-seize the "lip" that the pads rest/guide on the caliper assembly. You should be able to somewhat easily push the piston back into the bore with a pair of channel locks. If you can't you definitely need to rebuild the caliper. Parts are cheap and it's not too hard once you've done it a few times. Marco ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:29:32 -0500 From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Remember that part of the game is to have the piston push past it's normal end of travel by removing a pad. After taking a few sticking ones apart I have noticed a corrosion ring in the bore at the point where the piston is at the end of it's travel with the particular pads you have in the car. Obviously something is gunked up, but if it works its easy and cheap, and not much is lost in the effort. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 3:48 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I'm going to try Sam's suggestion of cycling the piston back and forth a few times as a (hopefully effective) temporary measure until I can do a rebuild for a more permanent solution. Thanks, Brian -----Original Message----- From: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Apr 15, 2004 3:50 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] [UUC] <E36>Brake Diagnosis help? the piston is sticking. time for a rebuild. sometimes you can get lucky by forcing the piston back into the bore the whole way but don't count on it. Also it's a good idea to lube with a tiny bit of anti-seize the "lip" that the pads rest/guide on the caliper assembly. You should be able to somewhat easily push the piston back into the bore with a pair of channel locks. If you can't you definitely need to rebuild the caliper. Parts are cheap and it's not too hard once you've done it a few times. Marco Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 14:11:14 -0700 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Wanted: Automatic transmission 89 325i Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I need an automatic transmission for an 89 325i four door. I would like the tranny to be in/around the Los Angeles area to avoid the expense (and wait) of shipping. Anyone...? Chris ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 16:31:40 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <OT> cd changer question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry to be off topic, but I'll make this quick. I bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee with an audiovox cd changer in the back. I can't find the stereo station that the modulator utilizes to broadcast the changer output. I thought remote cd changers used an 88.7 FM or something close to that as the station. Is it different for all modulators? Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 18:02:34 -0600 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thank you for the responses and for the links. I took Marco's suggestion and called Red Line. The tech said the same thing..."lifetime" is subjective and go with D4 ATF and 75W90. Appreciate the help - John -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andre Yew Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? On Thu, 15 Apr 2004, John Riganati wrote: > Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and > differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently > the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or > experience is appreciated. I have a 2000 328Ci, and changed my lifetime fluids recently. I used Redline D4 ATF for the tranny, and 75W90 gear oil for the rear diff. You can get procedures for the E46 here: http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_rear_diff_fluid.shtml http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_tran_fluid.shtml We basically pumped enough of both fluids in until it overflowed, so I'd have an extra bottle of both fluids on hand just in case. I had two bottles of each, and had leftover fluid that was shared with someone else who was doing his lifetime fluids at the same time. The fluid that came out was pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what lifetime means in that context. Once switched to Redline, I'd change the fluids every 30k miles, as people report that the Redline fluid gets dirty faster than the BMW lifetime fluid. The shifting feels the same as before, I think, but we put in a UUC Evo 3 shortshifter at the same time, so it's not exactly a controlled test. --Andre Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 17:10:38 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just remember - if you have a cpo or extended warranty you'd better use the pricey BMW stuff! Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 5:03 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? Thank you for the responses and for the links. I took Marco's suggestion and called Red Line. The tech said the same thing..."lifetime" is subjective and go with D4 ATF and 75W90. Appreciate the help - John -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andre Yew Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? On Thu, 15 Apr 2004, John Riganati wrote: > Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and > differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently > the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or > experience is appreciated. I have a 2000 328Ci, and changed my lifetime fluids recently. I used Redline D4 ATF for the tranny, and 75W90 gear oil for the rear diff. You can get procedures for the E46 here: http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_rear_diff_fluid.shtml http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_tran_fluid.shtml We basically pumped enough of both fluids in until it overflowed, so I'd have an extra bottle of both fluids on hand just in case. I had two bottles of each, and had leftover fluid that was shared with someone else who was doing his lifetime fluids at the same time. The fluid that came out was pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what lifetime means in that context. Once switched to Redline, I'd change the fluids every 30k miles, as people report that the Redline fluid gets dirty faster than the BMW lifetime fluid. The shifting feels the same as before, I think, but we put in a UUC Evo 3 shortshifter at the same time, so it's not exactly a controlled test. --Andre Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 17:42:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I took my car to the dealer for Inspection II (yeah, yeah, give me a break --- they do good work) and they were somewhat freaked out by the blue ATE brake fluid. I've heard the same story from my WRX-driving friend about his dealer. --Andre On Thu, 15 Apr 2004, Marco Romani wrote: > Just remember - if you have a cpo or extended warranty you'd better use the > pricey BMW stuff! > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 5:03 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [uuc] Re: [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? > > > Thank you for the responses and for the links. I took Marco's > suggestion and called Red Line. The tech said the same > thing..."lifetime" is subjective and go with D4 ATF and 75W90. > > Appreciate the help - John > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andre Yew > Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2004 11:49 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] "Lifetime" fluids? > > On Thu, 15 Apr 2004, John Riganati wrote: > > Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and > > differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently > > the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or > > experience is appreciated. > > I have a 2000 328Ci, and changed my lifetime fluids recently. I used > Redline D4 ATF for the tranny, and 75W90 gear oil for the rear diff. > You > can get procedures for the E46 here: > > http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_rear_diff_fluid.shtml > http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_tran_fluid.shtml > > We basically pumped enough of both fluids in until it overflowed, so I'd > have an extra bottle of both fluids on hand just in case. I had two > bottles of each, and had leftover fluid that was shared with someone > else > who was doing his lifetime fluids at the same time. > > The fluid that came out was pretty dirty, and I'm not sure what lifetime > means in that context. Once switched to Redline, I'd change the fluids > every 30k miles, as people report that the Redline fluid gets dirty > faster > than the BMW lifetime fluid. > > The shifting feels the same as before, I think, but we put in a UUC Evo > 3 > shortshifter at the same time, so it's not exactly a controlled test. > > --Andre > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:38:36 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Definitely change them...it's easy, cheap, and you'll sleep better at night! I change both fluids on my E46's annually. I've used Redline fluids in the past, but for the last three years I've been using Mobil-1 synthetic fluids because it's something I can easily find at the corner auto-parts store (D4ATF in Manual Transmission, 75W-90 Gear Oil in Diff). Why would anyone want to drive around with all those nasty little specs of metal in their fluids? :-) Just be sure to loosen the fill plugs before the drain plugs, and you won't have any surprises. "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > ...But every time I talk with someone about getting replacement > fluid, I am told that these fluids are "lifetime" fluids and > shouldn't be replaced. Is this for real? Regards, Steve 2004 330i ZHP 2000 323i (sold) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:48:22 -0400 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure. Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 03:44 PM 4/15/04, you wrote: >. Yesterday after getting off the highway I could smell hot brakes. I >pulled over and found that the right front brake pads appear to be dragging >on the rotor. The problem with a sticky caliper is that it can cook the rotor , and cause a bad warp if it does it too long. Rebuild kits are available at the dealer for $20. They have a square piston seal, and a baloon seal /dust cover that you change. It takes less than an hour to do the job. Jack car Remove wheel, and take off caliper. Put a block of wood in where the pads were, and genlty pump the piston out of the caliper, it wouldn't hurt to have a helper on the pedal. When the piston comes out, stop pumping and catch the mess in a bucket so the brake fluid doesn't make a puddle (doh!) I just make a mess. Clean the piston with crocus cloth (like sandpaper, available at the parts store.) Dig the seal out of the caliper bore, and replace the seal , in the same orientation as the old one if there is a lip..if there is a lip, it faces in. I think they are square, I can't remember. Fit the baloon/dust cover seal over the piston, and seat it in the piston groove. Crack the bleed screw on the caliper. Lube the piston with brake fluid, then push it into the caliper bore. Seat the balloon seal on the caliper once you have the piston installed. Push it all the way in, reinstall the pads and the caliper, and bleed the brakes. I like to grease the sliding pins and caliper and pad slider surface with brake grease(seems like an oxymoron doesn't it?) I love my pressure bleeder! This is good time to make the project bigger by flushing all the brake fluid and bleeding all the brakes, if you feel like fixing things that aren't broken.. it depends on my mood at the time.. You probably should check the rotor for runout.. I took mine that got cooked to the brake shop and had a light cut taken to true it up. If yours is straight, I would sand it with 150 grit sandpaper and clean it with Brake Kleen solvent to get the cooked rotor glazing off. Drive the car somewhere they serve beer, and spend the $200 you just saved on the new caliper. I guess you saved more like $400 if you were going to pay someone for doing the work. Buy rounds for your buddies while regaling them with your finesse and mechanical skills! If you are buying they may be quite receptive...If you were going to pay a mechanic, buy lap dances for your friends as you have an even bigger windfall...even better, buy one for your mechanic! (Best $20 I EVER spent) Dave Leonard A very cheap BMW owner. I just checked the oil in my 88 735i today, switched to synthetic in Jan..It burned 1/2 qt in 5k miles..and the engine has 260k miles on it! Not bad, that is a quart every 10k miles! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 18:00:49 -0700 From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Bumble bees under car-- What gives? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey guys I changed out the fuel pump on a '85 325e because it made a noise like a bunch of bees in a tin can. I'm talking about the one under the car not the one in the tank. I put the new one on and it does the same thing. Any ideas why??? Did I do something wrong? Thanks for any and all advice. ben 1995 325i (for sale) 1985 TD (for sale) (3) 1972 2002 (for sale) (2) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:15:12 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Bumble bees under car-- What gives? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > Hey guys I changed out the fuel pump on a '85 325e because it made a noise > like a bunch of bees in a tin can. I'm talking about the one > under the car > not the one in the tank. I put the new one on and it does the same thing. > Any ideas why??? > Did I do something wrong? Yes, you changed the wrong pump. The main pump is most likely making noise because it's working harder than it's supposed to, as the pre-pump is dead. Brett Anderson KMS --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.655 / Virus Database: 420 - Release Date: 4/8/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:26:00 -0400 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Bilstein Bump Stops Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for the good tip. The Bilsteins I did had been on a car for a few months, which may have made them more difficult. I was going to try heat next, but was a little worried about overheating the shock. Anyway, they are done now, and ready to go on the car Saturday. How did they work out on the M3 you installed them on? Much stiffer than stock? I am using OEM springs. MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 9:44 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Bump Stops > They should take you about 10 mins per side, if you take your time. I > recently did a front set of E36 M3 bilstiens in less time. > > 1. bottom of strut, remove bolt on threaded shaft > 2. use a torch to heat the threaded shaft enough to weaken/melt the > thread locker. About 45 seconds of heating the exposed threaded rod > works. Carefully heat the threaded shaft while making sure you are not > heating the shock assembly too much (hot to the touch) > 3. unscrew threaded shaft with very large flathead screwdriver while > holding strut housing. > 4. carefully slide shock assembly out and place on clean paper or towel. > > 5. remove the rubber bump stop from shock shaft, trim x mm off of the > bump stop, replace on shaft > 6. install in the reverse order, use loctite on threaded rod when > installing > 7. done > > Poster below probably didn't heat the threaded rod to weaken the loctite > thus needing a impact wrench. .com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 21:31:29 -0400 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: "Lifetime" fluids? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a 99 M3 and changed my tranny and diff lifetime fluids to Redline D4ATF and 75W90 respectively. Tranny is a little easier to shift when cold. Getting the BMW stuff is not easy--the dealer told me that it would be about $15/pint and I would have to pay labor to decant the fluid from a 55 gal drum. MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > The transmission on my 2000 328i has been getting a little stiff > (especially when cold), so I figured it was about time to change the > trans and diff fluids (49k miles...ok, past time). But every time I > talk with someone about getting replacement fluid, I am told that these > fluids are "lifetime" fluids and shouldn't be replaced. Is this for > real? Has anyone changed out their "lifetime" transmission and > differential fluids with something else (such as RedLine)? Apparently > the BMW fluid is super expensive and hard to get. Any thoughts or > experience is appreciated. > > Thanks, > John ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:13:41 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E39 Cluster Pixels Out Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Call your dealer and tell them you would like to get it replaced at BMWs expense. If they say no, call BMW customer service and tell them. They'll supply the part, you pay 1 hour labour to install and code it. ~$100 for a new cluster. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Has anyone on this list used the cluster repair guys with the website > "vdorepair.com"? I have a 99 540 with several pixels out in the display > and would love to have it fixed, but don't want to spend the big bucks > to do it 'right'. They appear to charge vastly different amounts > depending on how much warranty you buy. Does this imply they really > don't know what they are doing and the fix job is a crapshoot? Does > anyone really know the technical details of how this fix is done? Love > to hear from you if you do. Thanks. > > Steve Conner --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.655 / Virus Database: 420 - Release Date: 4/8/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
