The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 144 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: [uuc] Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Re: e30 M3 Crankcase Vent Hose Leak/Intake Gaskets/Coolant leak
Has anyone run into this??
M52 crankshaft
Re: M52 crankshaft
<FS> 1988 635csi]
Number of M-Coupes produced in 2002?
1996 318is coupe..LSD
E34 brake light issues
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 08:51:36 -0700
From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian,
I will take a wild guess that now you are at high risk of being the
possessor of a TFUC after applying a BFH with BTO.
Peter
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
cdigest.com To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
cc:
04/18/2004 10:20 PM Subject: [bmwuucdigest] digest(4
messages)
Please respond to
bmwuucdigest
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 16:12:10 -0400
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I ended up removing the caliper because I couldn't apply enough force to
the piston with it on the car. I tried to use a c-clamp to no effect,
even with the bleeder open, so it was mechanical resistance not
hydraulic. In the end I took the caliper off and used the extremely
subtle technique of resting the caliper on a wood block, setting a
length of iron pipe in the piston recess and whacking it repeatedly with
a BFH. The piston recognized the persuasiveness of my argument and
complied by retracting. As I said, the level of effort required
indicates a rebuild is in order.
Brian
Sam Drake wrote:
>I am always wanting to learn. Why did you have to disconnect the caliper?
>I have heard several people say that the piston would not go back into the
>cylinder (caliper) until they disconnected it. There is no reason for
this
>that I know of except that the hose is stopped up which is pretty far out.
>As I was visiting a neighbor the other day I came upon him about to
>disconnect the hose. He said it was because the piston would not go back
far
>enough to allow for the new pads. I proceeded to apply leverage in a
proper
>way and the piston went back all the way.
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Daley
>Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 2:19 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [UUC] Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>>From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>
>>
><detailed description of caliper rebuild snipped>
>
>Dave,
>
>Thanks for the tips, I especially liked your suggestions for the
post-repair
>celebration! I tried Sam's suggestion last night and it seems to have
done
>the trick for the moment, but considering the level of effort required to
>get the piston fully retracted it definitely needs a rebuild. If I'd had
>the new seals on hand I would have done the rebuild last night as I ended
up
>having to disconnect the caliper anyway. If I can pick up a couple sets
of
>seals on the way home from work tonight I'll rebuild both front calipers
>this weekend.
>
>Brian
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
-----------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 21:15:58 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I ended up removing the caliper because I couldn't apply enough force to
> the piston with it on the car. I tried to use a c-clamp to no effect,
> even with the bleeder open, so it was mechanical resistance not
> hydraulic. In the end I took the caliper off and used the extremely
> subtle technique of resting the caliper on a wood block, setting a
> length of iron pipe in the piston recess and whacking it repeatedly with
> a BFH. The piston recognized the persuasiveness of my argument and
> complied by retracting. As I said, the level of effort required
> indicates a rebuild is in order.
I would say. When I rebuild a caliper properly, I can push the piston in
by
hand without the use of any tools, etc.
Regards,
Rich
-----------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(4 messages)
**********
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:01:26 -0700
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:48:22 -0400
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Jack car
>Remove wheel, and take off caliper.
>Put a block of wood in where the pads were, and genlty pump the piston out
>of the caliper, it wouldn't hurt to have a helper on the pedal. When the
>piston comes out, stop pumping and catch the mess in a bucket so the brake
>fluid doesn't make a puddle (doh!) I just make a mess.
I just bought a set of front calipers from Bimmersouth and currently cleaning it
before rebuild. Since it is out of the car and I can't pump it out, is there a trick
for pushing the piston out?
TIA
Pingger
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:29:25 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
do you have an air compressor?
If so use the blow gun with a rubber tip on it, jam the tip into the hole
for the brake line. Use the block of wood, and use low air (not 90psi)
pressure to blow it out. DO NOT HAVE YOUR FINGERS IN THE WAY.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 9:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re: [UUC] Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:48:22 -0400
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Jack car
>Remove wheel, and take off caliper.
>Put a block of wood in where the pads were, and genlty pump the piston out
>of the caliper, it wouldn't hurt to have a helper on the pedal. When the
>piston comes out, stop pumping and catch the mess in a bucket so the brake
>fluid doesn't make a puddle (doh!) I just make a mess.
I just bought a set of front calipers from Bimmersouth and currently
cleaning it before rebuild. Since it is out of the car and I can't pump it
out, is there a trick for pushing the piston out?
TIA
Pingger
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:26:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I just bought a set of front calipers from Bimmersouth and currently cleaning it
> before rebuild.
> Since it is out of the car and I can't pump it out, is there a trick for pushing the
> piston out?
Pingger,
Yes, air pressure. Just take a rag (or a piece of wood, I prefer a balled up rag) and
cushion the
piston so that it doesn't fly out and damage itself or you and apply some gradual air
pressure to
the brake line port (close the bleeder if open) until it pushes out. A nozzle (with
the rubber
tip) on the end of the air hose works very well and it is quite easy to modulate the
pressure to
only use the amount needed and not an excessive amount.
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:27:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Place a rag over the bore to catch the piston, then apply
compressed air to the brake line hole on the back.
Careful--it will come out with some force.
-tammer f.
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> I just bought a set of front calipers from Bimmersouth
> and currently cleaning it before rebuild. Since it is out
> of the car and I can't pump it out, is there a trick for
> pushing the piston out?
>
> TIA
>
> Pingger
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25�
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:42:26 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Go to a source of compressed air, use a rubber valve stem and the garage
air hose to take the place of the hydraulic pressure. piston will come
out quickly, so pad the area with something besides your fingers.
Ed
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 20:48:22 -0400
>From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Sticky caliper Rebuld procedure.
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
>
>>Jack car
>>Remove wheel, and take off caliper.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>Put a block of wood in where the pads were, and genlty pump the piston out
>>of the caliper, it wouldn't hurt to have a helper on the pedal. When the
>>piston comes out, stop pumping and catch the mess in a bucket so the brake
>>fluid doesn't make a puddle (doh!) I just make a mess.
>>
>>
>
>I just bought a set of front calipers from Bimmersouth and currently cleaning it
>before rebuild. Since it is out of the car and I can't pump it out, is there a trick
>for pushing the piston out?
>
>TIA
>
>Pingger
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 12:23:35 -0400
From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sticky caliper Rebuild procedure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Compressed air is the standard method. Watch out, cause that piston can really fly. A
block of wood to keep the piston from free flying is recommended.
Steve Stoner
<<Since it is out of the car and I can't pump it out, is there a trick for pushing the
piston out?
TIA
Pingger>>
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:43:39 +0100
From: "Stephen McGrath" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e30 M3 Crankcase Vent Hose Leak/Intake Gaskets/Coolant leak
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Happy-to-joyous new owner of a truely wonderful car (e30M3). Now
> I see what all
> the fuss is about.
All together now: YEE-HAW!
Run, don't walk, to the phone to order the Conforti chip (TMS). Incredible
difference.
> Some M3 oddities I'm learning about (well
> versed in the M20
> e30's). Seems that the crankcase vent hose connection to that
> work-of-art intake
> plenum on the front of the engine wants to keep working it's way
> out, which
> leads to a nasty loss of vacuum. How do I keep that bugger in there?
This is one of those things that "they all do that" on that engine - as Lee
recommended, you really should join the E30M3 sig for a wealth of great tips
to keep these beauties going. The large plenum hose fitting does work loose,
and you need to fix it asap. A vacuum leak on these engines can be
catastrophic, you can easily burn a piston especially if you run hard. These
engines are very buzzy, and everything eventually comes loose! The fix is
JBWeld, it will lock the fitting back in. Others have recommended drilling
the flange of the elbow and using a self-tapping screw, but I'd rather not
drill into that plenum - JBWeld works very well.
While you are at it, there are three other smaller hose fittings in the
intake system that come loose. They are all the same size, about 3/8" in
diameter if I recall correctly. I'm going from memory, I think one is
accessible from the top going into the throttle bodies, one is underneath
that area, and the third I am a bit hazy on, I think it is to the side. They
all go in the area between the plenum and the head.
>
> I see that the intake gaskets are a known weak point. Dinan used
> to sell an
> upgrade, perhaps there are other sources? Is the OEM part
> improved now? They run
> ~$80 per, so I want to research this a bit.
>
There is no need to replace the gaskets unless they are damaged. Again, as
Lee recommended, you can get the paper gaskets from the E28 M5, or make your
own. I didn't bother with the paper gaskets, I got a tube of Loctite Hylomar
sealant - a tacky sealant that never really dries, so it flexes and
maintains contact. Very thin smear on each side of the gaskets. I ran with
that through about six driver schools and 30k miles and it held up with no
problems. Make sure the plenum support bushing is good.
> Also a bit 'concerned' about coolant loss. I see a leak (Thank
> Goodness!) on a
> small hose/tube junction near the fuel rail that needs attention.
> Any other
> known leak spots I should look for?
Get a hose kit and change them all. The little buggers into and out of the
heater core are tricky. If you are working on the intake gaskets, this will
expose a lot of area so is a good time to switch the hoses.
Good luck with it.
Stephen
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Has anyone run into this??
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Greetings all,
I upgraded the shifter in my 95 325i, (build date
10/94 with the factory sport package) this weekend to
the UUC EVO short shifter and ran into something
interesting. The bushing on my carrier was not a
rubber grommet type. It was a pressed in ball bearing
bushing with the rubber molded around the metal
sleeve. Looks like it came pre-installed with the
carrieer. Has anyone else seen this? I am the first
owner of the car so I know it hadn't been touched. I
didn't not change it out because I would have had to
press it out and the delrin bushing wouldn't have fit
anyways.
I hope to save someone the pain of removing that dam
bitch clip with this post. I wasted 4 hours of my day
removing this clip only to find out I didn't have to.
I would recommend to anyone upgrading their shifter to
check with their dealer and find out what kind of
bushing they use.
Other than that the shifter is awesome and very
simple to install.
Manuel Paredes
95 325i with another mod!
L.A. BMWCCA
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25�
http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:11:57 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: M52 crankshaft
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Anyone have a M52 crankshaft they want to get rid of?
Also wondering if anyone knows the length of the M52 con rods.
thanks
Marco
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:17:56 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: M52 crankshaft
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Try Brett Anderson, although he may sell the whole short block.
www.koalamotorsport.com
Ed
Marco Romani wrote:
>Anyone have a M52 crankshaft they want to get rid of?
>
>Also wondering if anyone knows the length of the M52 con rods.
>
>
>thanks
>
>Marco
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 01:01:31 -0500
From: Neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <FS> 1988 635csi]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In case anyone is interested, I ran across a 1988 635csi with 117k miles
for sale near an in-law's house. I can get more info on it if
anyone is interested (and I have a bunch of photos). It is in 9 out of
10 in condition, looks all original. There are a couple of minor dents in
the fender & hood. It's jet black w/dark gray leather, heated power
seats, auto, 16" M5 BBS wheels. This thing is so beautiful that my
wife didn't flinch when I said that I wanted it, and she even suggested
that I buy it.
Neil
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 02:52:29 -0700
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Number of M-Coupes produced in 2002?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Does anyone know the exact number of M Coupe's produced in 2002?
Is there a website where this kind of information is kept?
Lastly: Does anyone know of an M-Coupe digest or users group?
Chris
89 M3 http://www.inlacal.com <http://www.inlacal.com/>
01 X5
02 M-Coupe
00 M5
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:33:10 +0100
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 1996 318is coupe..LSD
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi Folks,
I have a 1996 318Is at the moment..I have acquired an LSD from a 325i coupe
Will this fit directly on?
Do you see any problems with fuel consumption, etc?
Cheers,
Eddie
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 10:29:08 -0500
From: "Andrew Harkonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUCDigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E34 brake light issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hello. Need some help here. Car, 89' 535i, 5spd. I have been plagued by a
brake light that does not want to work for more then a day or so. The bulb
does not burn out, it is just fine, the problem seems to be the contact in
the tail light lens housing. I have tried to bend the tabs out a bit to
make sure there is good contact, I have also tried some dielectric grease
without any success.
I have taken a jack stand and applied the break pedal and then gone to the
light and fiddled with it to get it to come on. Cycle the key and the check
control will clear. Drive for a few miles, turn the car off, start it
again, drive a few feet, apply brake.....ding, ding, ding "1 brake light".
It is starting to drive me mad! Any E34 owners out there had this problem
and found the solution? I have looked at bmwe34.com under the LKM fix, but
that seems to address a different issue, no? I just have one dodgy brake
light, low beams are fine. Please help, direct replies are welcome. TIA.
Andrew Harkonen
STL
'89 535i, 5spd.
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
